VOLUME 8 NO. 6 JULY 2 – JULY 8, 2021 FREE SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COMJAPAN.STRIPES.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC

Stars and Stripes is asking readers OKUTAMA to write about their own piece of paradise. Yes, that means you! Our annual Destination Paradise Fresh air and beautiful scenery magazine highlights must-see PAGES 4-5 WUDYHOVSRWVDFURVVWKH3DFLƓFŋ and your bit of paradise could be included in our 2021-22 edition that hits the streets on 3DFLƓFEDVHVLQ6HSWHPEHU Submit your story and photos to [email protected] by July 20. We’ll make you famous! Check out our previous Destinazation Paradise mags

Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi, Stripes Japanapan INSIDE INFO in

STORYSTOORYY AND PHOTOSPHOTOTOSBS BYBY TAKAHIROTAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI,TTAKAKIGUCHI, BLOSSOMS BRIGHTEN STRIPESSTRIPESJ JAPANAPAN UP RAINY SEASON PAGE 2 nly a few hours’ drive from most bases in the Kanto Plain, Sawara in Chi- ba Prefecture is an attractive town, known as “Koedo,” or little , that O preserves the original townhouses and streets from the Edo period, allow- PAPAYA ing for a glimpse at the former glory of the samurai capital. PICKLES A Situated along the Tone River, Sawara accommodates various canals, ponds HEALTHY and waterways. The district is known for being a host to beautiful iris flowers, CHOICE which draw many locals to enjoy them during the rainy season in early summer. PAGE 6 SEE SAWARA ON PAGE 3 2 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 2 − JULY 8, 2021

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Lt. Col. Michael Kerschbaum Commander Brighten up Japan’s rainy season Michael Ryan Chief of Staff Chris Verigan Engagement Director with some beautiful blossoms Marie Woods Publishing and Media Design Director STORY AND PHOTOS BY Recommended hydrangea viewing sites Chris Carlson TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, STRIPES JAPAN Publishing and Media Design Manager

Eric Lee Hakone Tozan Railway: Kamakura Meigetuin (Hydrangea Temple) : Advertising and Circulation Manager e’ve finally reached the https://www.facebook.com/StripesPacific/ https://japan.stripes.com/travel/kamakura- posts/2296189500429019 Monte Dauphin middle of rainy season, perfect-day-trip-japan Japan Area Manager Waka “tsuyu” in Japa- Kentaro Shimura nese, where not only is it raining Production Manager a lot, but the heat and humidity Recommended iris viewing sites Rie Miyoshi Engagement Manager might also be making you sweat Suigo Sawara Ayame Park: Yokosuka Shobu-en Iris Garden: Denisse Rauda buckets. For many, this is prob- www.ryokukazouen.jp/iris/ (Japanese) Publishing and Media Design Editor https://japan.stripes.com/travel/little-edo- ably the worst of the four seasons has-old-traditional--feel Publishing and Media Design Writers ChiHon Kim in Japan, but I like this season Shoji Kudaka because of all the beautiful flow- Takahiro Takiguchi ers that bloom during it. Layout Designers three blossoms are in full bloom Some change from Shobu-en are popu- Mamoru Inoue A walk through your neighbor- in mainland Japan, while irises pink to purple, lar iris viewing Yukiyo Oda hood or local park will give you Yuko Okazaki and shell ginger (“gettou”) are while others sites in the Kanto Kayoko Shimoda the opportunity to see the many blooming on Okinawa. In fact, from blue to Plain. Multimedia Consultants irises (“shobu”), lotus (“hasu”) flowering shell ginger heralds violet or fade We are in Max Genao Doug Johnson Jason Lee Hans Simpson and hydrangea (“ajisai”) that the rainy season on the southern in intensity the gloomy sea- Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn only appear this time of year. Not islands; hydrangea embody the Robert Zuckerman throughout the son, yes, but it as gorgeous or famous as season on the mainland. Graphic Designers course of the doesn’t actually Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji the spring’s cherry Hydrangea may be the 4- to 6-week sea- rain every day. For Sales Support blossoms, these top among these rainy- son. Peak flower IRIS example, the aver- Yu mi Choe Kazumi Hasegawa modest and el- season blossoms in viewing season on aage number of rainy Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Yusuke Sato egant beauties popularity, as you Okinawa is mid-May dadays in June is only Saori Tamanaha Toshie Yoshimizu bring vivid Un Chong Yu can see and enjoy to the end of June, while it runs 12 in the Kanto Plain, according colors to the them ubiquitously from mid-June to early July on to Japan Meteorological Agency. drab overcast throughout the na- the mainland. So, let’s grab our umbrellas and weather. tion. The hydran- go out to check out these season- For feedback and inquiries, If you’re in Kanto Plain, I contact [email protected] With plen- gea’s colors can would suggest Hokone (Tozan al beauties. ty of water vary from white, Railway) and Kamakura Mei- And you know what? The rain To place an ad, call DSN 227-7370 falling amid pink, violet and blue, getsuin (Hydrangea Temple) for makes these graceful blossoms japan.stripes.com/contact the early summer HYDRANGEA anda some gradually hydrangea viewing spots, while seem all the more elegant! warmth, these shifts to different colors. Sawara Iris Park and Yokosuka [email protected] JULY 2 − JULYJUL 8, 2021 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 3 SAWARA: Lovely setting CONTINUEDCONCONNTINTTIININUUEUEDEED FFRFROMROMOM PAGPAPAGEE 1

For the famous blooms, visit Sawara Iris Park, where there are over 400 dif- ferent types of irises and over 1.5 mil- lion iris flowers in total between June and July. You can catch a park full of white, pink, violet and blue irises. The ponds, small rivers and bridges, along with traditional boats operated by la- dies in blue kimonos, brought a touch of nostalgia. Hop on a boat to enjoy the irises on water. The park’s souvenir shops offer iris flowers, local food and sweets, and even a sweet potato ice cream! an old samurai movie. Be sure to stroll around the center Back in its heyday, Sawara’s wa- city of Sawara after visiting the park. terway was vital for the transport of With a classic-looking soy sauce, miso and rice from wooden bridge, the old town the countryside. Some of the of Sawara is surrounded by wooden boats are still around storehouses and merchant and you will see a few of them, buildings, still standing and in except now they carry tourists remarkable condition, dating instead of food. back to the late Edo period. Vi ! During rainy season, Sawara Willow trees line the riverbank ew Video is the place to go if you want to and the streets are surrounded enjoy graceful iris and hydran- by dark-brown wooden build- gea in a traditional Japanese ings and grey-tiled roofs, making you setting. Check it out! feel like you’ve been transported into [email protected]

Q SAWARA IRIS PARK LOCATION: 1837-2, Ogishima, Katori City, Chiba Pref. HOURS: Tue – Sun, Jul 3 – Aug 1 (lotus festival): 8 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., August 2 -: 9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. ADMISSION: May-Aug, adult: 600 yen, middle and elementary schoolers: 300 yen, Sept – Nov, adult: 200 yen, middle and elementary schoolers: 100 yen , Dec- Apr, free URL: https://ayamepark.jp/?p=we-page-top-1 (Japanese) TEL: 0478-56-0411

QSAWARA TOURIST CENTER LOCATION: 74-31 Sawara I, Katori City, Chiba Pref. HOURS: Tue – Sun, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. URL: https://www.suigo-sawara.ne.jp/ (Japanese) TEL: 0478-52-6675 4 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 2 − JULY 8, 2021

OKUTAMA A breath of fresh air

STORY AND PHOTOS BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, visit the grounds and sample some of the restaurant’s delica- surroundings. STRIPES JAPAN cies like handmade sweet-bean buns and wasabi-flavored tofu The 13-mile Okutama Shuyud nuggets while overlooking the river and bright red suspen- skyline makes for a nice, smoo apan’s tsuyu rainy season has just started and the steamy sion bridge. If you are not the designated driver, don’t forget drive and the view from the to weather will continue until late July in the Kanto and oth- to sample the brewery’s high-end sake brand “Sawanoi,” as the of the area’s mountain range er parts of Honshu. To avoid the heat and sticky weather J extremely mellow and smooth flavor pairs well with the menu. is breathtaking. We usually tou while maintaining social distancing guidelines, my wife, daugh- We enjoyed hours of hiking the beautiful nature trails along around the area in early Novembe ter and I took a refreshing escape to Okutama in . the river and saw some visitors enjoying fishing and rafting in to check out the gorgeous autum This mountainous region is blessed with beautiful forests, the area. colors. lakes and rivers offering a Before we left the brewery, I made sure to buy a large bottle Our regret this time was the tw nice one-day driving route OKUTAMA MACHI of delicious sake as a souvenir to take home. from most U.S. military parking lots, Tsukiyomi No. 1 a No.2, known for their splendid v bases in the Kanto Plain. Exploring a large limestone cave Anxious for cool, fresh air and of the lake and surrounding moun Our next stop in the area was a drive through a narrow, cliffy were also closed due to COVID-19 beautiful landscapes, we left our road to arrive at the Nippara Shonyudo home in Yokosuka City around 8 we couldn’t park, the drive throu limestone cave. ests of fresh green leaves were s a.m. We drove through Yoko-Yoko, This cave with an internal tempera- Yokota AB and the strong sunshine of early Tomei and Chuo Expressways, and it ture of a cool 52 degrees Fahrenheit is TOKYO were dreaming. We encountered was around 9:30 a.m. when we got to an ideal place to escape the heat and babies, standing aside the windin Ome City. It was Saturday, but the route humidity in the summer. This serene at us... the babies were so cute! was not too crowded, which let us enjoy pleasant spot also once served as a sacred Bud- driving through the beautiful green valley of Tama dhist site for meditation and training, so River as we made our way to Ozawa Shuzo Brewery. the rock formations and halls have names Ending trip with hot soak with Buddhist origins. We checked out the It was already close to 3 p.m Hiking around old traditional brewery Hakuikannon (Bodhisattva in White Dress), Jigokudani (valley headed to the onsen for a soak an Ozawa Shuzo, one of the oldest sake breweries in Tokyo, sits of Hell) and Amidanohara (The Field of Amitabha) as we ex- There are six one-day spa faci in a valley along the . Since opening its doors in 1705, plored this bright, illuminated cave. Standing in the large space fect for a relaxing end to your hi the brewery has been brewing high-quality sake using rice and underground made us feel as if we were traveling in the galaxy. These warm springs, rich in so spring water of the Okutama Valley. The large brewery has a To tell you the truth, we weren’t expecting the cave to cool ing after a long day. The spa con sizeable garden spreading along the riverside, complete with a us down enough to need a jacket. But once we started walking tubs as well as some dining faci restaurant, museum and souvenir shops. along the cave stairs and different areas the temperature was and a light meal before we hit ro We left the car in the parking lot of the brewery and ventured fine. Although we are now in the m out for a stroll in the large brewery garden and along the river- son, don’t let the rain get you dow side path in the cool breeze from the Tama River. Driving around Okutama Lake days throughout. The average n The brewery’s 30-minute guided tour was unfortunately sus- After we delved underground, the next leg of our tour brought only 12 in the Kanto Plain, acco pended due to COVID-19, so we were not able to join. Usually, us to Okutama Lake, a man-made reservoir which provides over Agency. So, take advantage of the the tour includes a walk through the brewery’s wooden store 20 percent of Tokyo’s water supply. Many visitors enjoy leisure- for some driving, hiking and coo house and spring water springs. We were, however, still able to ly walks and drives around the lake to enjoy its lush, forested [email protected] JULY 2 − JULY 8, 2021 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 5

ma-no-yu azu (hotsp K ring)

LOCATION: 2430 HHinoharainohara ViVillage,llage, NishitaNishitama-gun,ma Tokyo HOURS: Tue - Fri, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. (Monday close) ADMISSION: 880 yen for adults; 440 yen for elementary and middle school stu- dents URL: http://spa-kazuma.com/ (Japanese) TEL: 0428-83-8491 Kazumanoyu Spa

para Shonyud Nip o tone Ca doroo (Limes ve) oth op LOCATION: 1052 Nippara,paraa, OkutamaOkutamma Town,Tow es Nishikitama-gun, Tokyo ur ashuzo Bre aw wer (Parking lot is available for 700 vehicles) er Oz y mn HOURS: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. M-S LLOLOCATION : 2-77070 SaSawai,wai, Ome City, Tokyo ADMISSION: 800 yen for adults; 600 yen for middle wo HOHOURS: 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. M-S schoschoololo students;stu 500 yen for elementary students. and URUURL: http://www.sawanoi-sake.com/enn viewss ntains,ns, TETEL:L:L 0428-78-8215 9. Thoughough ugh thethe foforr- simplyply beautiful, beautiful y summer made us feel as if we a large group of monkeys with ng mountainous path and looking Speakin’ m. and we were hungry, so we nd a nice lunch. Japanese ilities in the Okutama area, per- ike or long drive. BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, odium and chloride, were relax- STRIPES JAPAN Suzumi ntains various bathing pools and masho! ilities. We enjoyed a good soak oad at around 5 p.m. mid of the unpleasant rainy sea- wn as there are plenty of sunny umber of rainy days in June is e’re’ soon gettingtti intoi t theth unpleasant,l steamy rainy ording to Japan Meteorological season of tsuyu. We may need to escape from the e sunny day to head to Okutama Wcity for a while and head to cool place like sea, l river breezes! mountain or riverside. A picnic at a riverbank, taking in V a cool breeze while watching people enjoying fishing or iew Video! cayakking in the river makes for a relaxing time during the steamy rain season. So, let’s take a good rest at a cool place. Suzumi masho! = Let’s take a rest at a cool place! • suzumi = cool down • ... masho = let’s VIDEO LESSON 6 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 2 − JULY 8, 2021 Papaya pickles a healthy snack, rice topping

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA, papaya dish, was one my the fruit/vegetable TThe JSA said ao papa- takes only about an hour to STRIPES JAPAN mother cooked up often with is rich in vitamin C, yya touts benefits such prepare and will have you en- the unripened ao papaya. As a minerals, and an en- aas support for diges- joying the salty-sweet flavor rowing up on Okina- child who was not a big fan of zyme called “papa- ttion, enhancement right away. wa, I enjoyed papaya vegetables, hearing the word in,” which dissolves oof immune strength, The pickles would be a more often as a veg- G “papaya” would make my face fat. Thus, papaya is aand facilitated recov- great gohan-no-otomo (rice etable than as a fruit. Every cloud over. However, in hind- drawing attention as eery after exercise. escort in Japanese) or try it as once in a while, I would have V sight, I can’t appreciate my a diet food, JA says. iew eo! Enjoy all the ben- an appetizer for alcohol. some of the ripe orange fleshy mother enough for serving up Some, like the Ja- Vid eefits of ao papaya at There is nothing wrong with fruit, but mostly it was ao pa- dishes with this delicious veg- pan Superfoods As- hhome with this great eating papaya fruit, but you’re paya (blue papaya in Japa- etable because it is one of the sociation (JSA), give recipe to make this missing out on its health ben- nese) or green papaya we’d healthiest foods you can have. papaya a superstar treatment healthy food into a tasty pickle. efits before it ripens. Give it a have at home. According to Japan Agri- by ranking it as number one All the ingredients are avail- try! Papaya irichi, a stir-fried cultural Cooperatives (JA), among superfoods in 2020. able at local supermarkets, [email protected]

pickles can go bad quicker in INGREDIENTS (for a jar of pickles) 4 Soak the slices in water for 3 6 10 minutes. Drain the wa- comparison to other pickles. ter. • Ao Papaya ...... 1kg 9 Enjoy it over rice or alone ...... • Sakiika (dried shredded squid) 33g 5 Boil water in a pot. Turn off as a healthy tart snack. いた • Shio Konbu (salted kelp) ...... 33g the stove once water boils. だきます (Bon appetite)! • Ginger ...... 33g Let the slices soak in the hot • Garlic ...... 33g water for a few minutes. Turn • Soft brown sugar ...... 167cc on the stove again before 7 • Ajitsuke-su (seasoned vinegar) ...... 15cc putting the slices in the pot. • Soy sauce ...... 266cc 4 6 Drain the hot water.

RECIPE 7 Put the slices in a bowl and mix them with dried shred- 1 Rinse papaya with water. ded squid, salted kelp, sliced 2 ginger and garlic, soft brown 2 Slice off papaya’s skin. sugar, seasoned vinegar, and 8 soy sauce. 5 Slice papaya into a few 3 8 Put the mixture in a jar. Re- chunks and remove seeds. frigerated, the pickles will (Slice it into more pieces if nec- hold for at least a month. essary). Cut them into thin slic- Note: Since this recipe es by using a peeler. doesn’t use a lot of salt, these

Stripes Japan is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department Japan may be distributed through official channels and use Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication of Defense for members of the military services overseas. appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage However, the contents of Stripes Japan are unofficial, and are locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. The without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, appearance of advertising in this publication, including age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. JULY 2 − JULY 8, 2021 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES JAPAN 7 Stripes Sports Trivia

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The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1234 5678 91011 1 Fleet-footed 12 13 14 15 5 Delhi dress 9 Flightless bird 16 17 18 12 Small songbird 19 20 21 13 Black cat, to some 22 23 24 25 DID YOU 14 Chuck Barris prop 26 27 28 29 30 KNOW? 16 Poly- follower 31 32 33 34 35 17 Potluck choice 18 Doing nothing 36 37 38

19 Safari sight 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 20 Defaming remark reen tea was very popular 22 College official 47 48 49 50 51 amongst Okinawans during the 24 Filly's father G 52 53 54 55 56 Ryukyu Kingdom (1429 – 1879). 25 Atlantic catch During this time, tea imported from 26 Storm center 57 58 59 60 27 "Dig in!" China was only served to upper class 61 62 63 people and “kuma cha,” as green tea was 29 Solitary sort 31 Be inclined 64 65 66 called, was widely consumed amongst 33 Reebok rival the general masses. The tea available 35 Kitchen counter? 67 68 69

was either from the region now known as 36 Board game Copyright 2021 by The Puzzle Syndicate Kumamoto or in Urasoe City’s Chayama, with tweezers literally meaning “tea mountain.” 39 Proverbial payee 2 Immune re- 39 Bret Michaels' 48 Mortgage bank, 42 Walked (on) sponse trigger band e.g. 43 "Lights out" 3 Part of a play 40 Night demon 50 Untrustworthy music 4 Sovereign seat 41 Business sort 47 Hot, in Vegas 5 Scotch's partner expense 54 Ruckus 49 Theater section 6 Not right 44 Clear of blame 56 No longer fresh 51 Took the bait 7 Breathing 45 Davy Crockett, 58 Count (on) Kanji of 52 Frost-covered apparatus e.g. 59 Tear to bits 53 Appear to be 8 Possible reply to 46 Mental strain 55 Landlord, e.g. "Where are the week 57 Wave the white you?" ߦYuku/ko (go) flag 9 Auspices Answers to Last Week's Crossword: 60 Perform 10 Token amount penance 11 Set free PLOT ARTS GIANT Language Lesson 61 Slender 12 Mink's relative LICE MERE ENVO I instrument 15 Driver's license ANTARCT I C TH I NG 62 Hand (out) info TEASE ROTC EACH 63 Red-tag events 21 Odd-numbered GESSO HORNET 64 ___ and void page BIOTIN SHAME A little bit more. 65 Type of break or 23 Scotch ___ ANN NOTH I NGNESS keel 28 One of two in a AFAR WE I RD TYPO 66 North Pole crew Christmas tune SOLARPANELS EAR 67 Like a fox 30 Dryer fuzz TULLE ENCORE 68 Bassoon, e.g. 32 Active sort CAS I NO TROOP 69 Bad look 34 Calendar abbr. ALTO WAVE OPERA Moo sukoshi. 37 Nonpoetic UPEND FINETUNED DOWN writing SHEAR ELSE LEAD 1 Lens choice 38 "American ___" EARLY WEEK ARMS

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olumbus, yaki Col s,in Yokohama omiy rs do the kon dine cooking OkonomiyakiOk onomiyaki Columbus is on the O thethe papancakencakke isi ccookedooked ththoroughly.oroughhlyl . O smallersmaller sizesizee withwiitth limitedlimited seating,seating,g andandd Location:Location: t 11-3-73 7 Matsukagecho,M Naka Ward, ThThereere shouldshould bebe a bubunchnch off ccondi-ondi A you’llyou’ll noticenoti thatthatt allall tthehe ttablesables havehave a A Yokohama, Kanagawa 231-0025 ments available on your table. Be adven- grill in the middle.dle ThisThis stylet l off dining STORY AND PHOTOS BY JONATHAN SNYDER, Hours: Open 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch turous and add sauces and mayonnaise is best enjoyed with friends, but if your STARS AND STRIPES and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner Monday on top and start digging in. okonomiyaki is undercooked or over- Published: May 13, 2021 through Friday; open 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. cooked, you have only yourself to blame. For the quality of food I received, the weekends and holidays. price was very reasonable at about $7. f you find yourself wandering around I ordered the Kansai-style octopus Prices: Okonomiyaki starts at about $7. If you come hungry, there is an all-you- the Yokohama area near Chinatown okonomiyaki, and the waitress brought a Dress: Casual can-eat option for about $10 and all-you- I and have never tried Japanese savory bowl with the ingredients in it. This was Directions: A two-minute can-drink of non-alcoholic beverage op- pancakes, check out Okonomiyaki Co- my first try at okonomiyaki, and the staff walk from Ishikawacho lumbus. was more than willing to show me how to tions for an additional $4 that’s available Station. Okonomiyaki — a mix cook at my table. from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. GPS: N 35° 40.0052’, E 139° of wheat flour-based bat- EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: You first want to mix You may upgrade and add some pre- 45.9792’ Website ter, cabbage and egg — everything up really well mium items such as yakisoba, udon, comes with an assortment in the bowl. Then pour kimchi fried rice and salad for the equiv- of meat, seafood or veg- some cooking oil on the alent of about $5. etable options that you grill’s hot surface. Okonomiyaki Columbus also offers cook yourself at your table. Next, pour the bowl’s contents onto the Korean equivalent of okonomiyaki, a This shop, which uses seasonal, or- the grill. Use two spatulas to move the spicy offering called chijimi, and a dish ganic vegetables, offers two styles of batter into a pancake. Wait until one side with Tokyo roots, monjayaki, that is also okonomiyaki, Hiroshima and Kansai. is nice and golden brown before flipping similar to okonomiyaki. Hiroshima style typically includes noo- it over. [email protected] dles and uses a special sauce. Wait just a little longer until you feel Twitter: @Jon_E_Snyder