SEPTEMBER, 1916. ONE SHILLING A COPY 12 SHILLINGS A YEAR

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THE 1919 PAN-PACIFIC EXPOSITION IN HONOLULU II

HMLIN CLOSED DU is a corner of the Court of Seasons at the San Francisco Exposition. 620 e are no Seasons in Hawaii, only eternal spring. At the 1919 Exposi- .M5 tion one month will be as another---perfection.

-77 1111141111111111 ioL. XII. No. 3. HONOLULU, HAWAII. GORDON & GOTCH, (Proprietary, Limited) Agents for Australasia. Speedy Trains in New South Wales f The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.

All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From.Syd- glorious river scenery as well as eiccellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams , comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip from wonderful bits o scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at. Sydney mous for the ,exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. nere and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state' are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. L. Spurway. 1.1.1Minnenettetsvm•Atkvittgene • MUM nt1P lAtjokbert1 • • 1..• ttnemp•WIMptermium • patztt zunaknemos■ .---5 ., 4., . oIlr to-Partur III agazitir .

• CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD VOLUME XII. • E No.3. E . 1 CONTENTS FOR SEPTEMBER, 1916. 'X • • Our Art Section (The 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition, Honolulu) 201 • • The New Idea in Expositions, Honolulu, 1919 - - - 217 Balboa Day in Hawaii 227 • By Jean West Maury. • A Solomon Island Cruise 233 '.; (From the Log of the Snark.) 4 By Charmian Kittredge London. X. • Jenolan Caves, New South Wales 239 4--4 • By Una Kidgell. . On to Buitenzorg 249 • From the Editor's Diary. • 0 Polo in Hawaii 253 By Laurence Redington. !• • E The New Korea 259 • By Count Terauchi, Gov.-General of Chosen. • . China's Ancient Wonders 265 ! By Frederick McCormick. e • Hawaii's Flower—Hibiscus 271 • . E By Alonzo Gartley. • Transportation in the Philippines . 277 • By 0. Garfield Jones. • • • • New Zealand's Main Railway 283 • By R. Farnall. vil • Following of Living Lava Flow 287 I • By L. W. de ris-Norton. Tongan Homes 293 • By W. T. Brigham, 21.M., Sc.D., Director Bishop Museum. • • Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific. . i-,F. Mg, II: id-rarifir II: agazittr • Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. !II' • Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. . Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. I I pi.- Permission is given to republish articles from • the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given :0 11. :ire- • trestard • NO • • • • froil UM • IrettniciffidfrNt -1 — - ---- •- • '-', 4

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'704' • ltrtclrigittiAl • • tiorracriareartitriovestreitosimrer • tantarivtittstactailitrtarto • irab-si amiraNirreorreareoraNi The Hon. Walter Francis Frear, L.L. D., Ex-Governor of Hawaii and president of the Hands- Around-the-Pacific Movement, who is making a three months' tour of Australia and New Zealand. He is one of the Advisory Committee of the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. flith-Pariftr flittgazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VOLUME XII. SEPTEMBER, 1916 No. 3

The model in the Bishop Museum, Honolulu, of an Hawaiian preparing tapa, an almost lost art that it is hoped will be revived for the 1919 Exposition. This might, with proper scenic background, become a model for a diorama on a large scale of the ancient Polynesian industry of tapa making.

The New Idea in Expositions Honolulu, 1919

T WAS from a tiny, provincial fair, der-compelling exhibit of those islands at for the sale of home-made goods held the San Francisco Exposition was devel- I first in a backwoods native village of oped. From that tiny Moro exchange, or- the Philippines, that the unique and won- ganized a few years ago by a young army

217 ?18 THE MID-PACIFIC

Here are seen some of the dioramas in the Canada Building at the San Diego Exposition that merge into each other and make the visitor believe that he is looking out doors upon the real scenes that are so skilfully depicted in the dioramas.

officer, grew first the annual Philippine Ex- of money that is to be spent, but the amount position, that lasts a month each year in of brains, energy, and the power of co- Manila, and from that developed the won- operation of all Pacific races in Hawaii and derful self-supporting exhibition of the around the Pacific Ocean that is to tell the home industries of the Philippines, that at story in Hawaii. San Francisco and San Diego astonished the It was the boast of the San Francisco visiting world only less than did the Ca- Exposition Company that it had spent five nadian exhibit and buildings at these ex- million dollars upon exhibit buildings alone positions which cost a million and a half before the gates of the great Panama-Pacific dollars to build and install. International Exposition were thrown open The people of the Philippines have given to the world, and it was a boast that at- the world expositions an object lesson as to tracted thronging thousands. It is ithe how brains, energy, and grit combined with boast of the proposed Pan-Pacific Exposi- co-operation on the part of the many lowly, tion in Honolulu in 1919, that the sons of may be made to accomplish world results the Pacific nations resident here will erect that hitherto have been looked upon as the their own buildings upon the exposition right of the rich and lordly only to achieve. grounds, for which they themselves will pay In Hawaii, the Pan-Pacific workers are the lease, and that to these they will in- endeavoring to accomplish for the home in- vite the industrial exhibits of their own peo- dustries of all Pacific 'people, what the ple in Hawaii, as well as of their people Filipinos accomplished for the people of the across the sea. Philippine Islands. It is not the amount "Co-operation" is to be the watchword of THE MID-PACIFIC 219

near view of this Canadian diorama shows how the stuffed animals and real trees are ar- ranged on the built foreground and so skilfully connected with the great circular painting that the eye is deceived and all seems real.

the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Hono- manency, with the idea that portions of it lulu. It is to be a people's exposition, and may be sent abroad to convince the world while the financial co-operation of the great that Pacific lands hold potential possibili- capitalists of the richest city for its size in ties of wonderful industrial development, the world will not be scorned, this will not as well as scenic and other interesting in- be relied upon as the only means of carry- ducements that will tempt every kind of ing the people's Pan-Pacific Exposition to visitor. success. First there is being gathered together In fact, it is the willing co-operation be samples of the humble home manufactures tween those who have been successful - that once made the Hawaiians known as splendidly successful in Hawaii—and those an industrious race; next the handiwork of who have been brought here from many the Japanese, Filipinos, Koreans, Chinese, Pacific lands to make this success for others by their manual labor, that gives the possi- Portuguese, and other Pacific people resi- bility for all classes and conditions of men dent in Hawaii, is being collected, while of the score of races in Hawaii to work to- those from the mainland of America, Aus- gether as the varied races have never tralia and New Zealand are invited to worked together elsewhere in the world. make displays of the industries that they Today in Honolulu, by rich and lowly are introducing into Hawaii that will need on equal footing of friendship, is being es- the co-operation of the man who labors tablished the nucleus of a Pan-Pacific In- with his hands. This, but a training that dustrial exhibit, that is to remain a per- may have further advancement in a Pan- 220 THE MID-PACIFIC

The most realistic of the Canadian dioramas has for its foreground the actual home of a family of beavers which have constructed the dam and gnawed down the trees they have needed in the work. It is all a wonderful and instructive realistic picture of Canadian wild life.

Pacific Exposition, industrial and scenic, created as a setting and home for Pacific to be held in Honolulu in 1919-20. peoples and their work. Canada and the Philippines have set At this 1919 Exposition, it is the desire world examples in exposition development. to show particularly the possibilities of de- Hawaii, at the Cross-roads of the Pacific, veloping the small or home industries of will unite the methods of the East with the people, as well as to bring dramatic dis- those of the West, seeking, however, to plays of the scenic wonders of the lands add as the cement which will bind the two about the Pacific together in one spot, where together, a touch of the Hawaiian idea, they may be seen and studied and compared. which is co-operation, boosting first for Great machinery, ponderous power plants, your neighbor, in trust that he will do as and space-taking areas given to the repeti- much for you. tion of the same kind of exhibits, will have The different provinces of Canada long no place in the 1919 exposition, for this is ago learned the lesson of co-operation, and to be an exposition based on co-operation, have carried to a logical conclusion in ex- without competition. It is to be an exposi- position work that which has brought wealth tion by the people of the Pacific, of the and desirable population to the Dominion. handicrafts of the races that people the Here again, a great work grew from small, lands of the Great Ocean ; these to be and at first scorned beginnings. Canada backed and surrounded with scenic exhi- has developed the scenic diorama to per- bitions of the wonders that Nature has fection, as the Philippines have developed THE MID-PACIFIC 221

In this picture may be studied the built+rdtks, real water, and tree trunks in the foreground PI the diorama, while the receding vista in the background may be admired with its painted stream from which at your feet you may dip real water; nor can the eye tell where the real and the painted stream join. the exposition of home industries of the Exposition, the pictures here shown were 'people. It is proposed in 1919 to combine especially taken to illustrate this article, these, as Canada has already begun to com- that they might give to ,the people of the bine her later dioramas with her agricul- Pacific an understanding of what is de- tural, mineral and commercial displays. sired of them in the way of co-operating The Canada exhibition of diormas that in the efforts of the 1919 Pan-Pacific Ex- is revolutionizing modern exposition meth- position in Honolulu. The dioramas with ods is the dream fulfilled of a man who has their exhibits from Pacific lands, should be stood with it from the time he was a poor constructed that they may be boxed up and youth with a single diorama from a doubt- sent from place to place, as the Pan-Pacific ing Canadian province to show, until, Exposition in Hawaii is to be but the nuc- backed by the Dominion of Canada and leus of other Pan-Pacific expositions the recognized by the world, this display, the world over. It is but the part and begin- child of his brain, become the first and fore- ning of a plan to teach the people of the most feature, sought as an attraction by the Pacific to work together before the whole modern international exposition ; and this world for the interests of the Pacific. exhibition is so wonderful constructed that To return to the Canada Building at the it may be moved from one portion of the San Diego Exposition, remember, that this globe to another, as it is needed, to attract entire exhibit was removed within a very settlers, investors and visitors to Canada. few weeks from its building at San Fran- In the Canada Building at the San Diego cisco, and placed in perfect position in its. 2" THE MID-PACIFIC

In this simple diorama depicting life in a fruit orchard in Canada,, the painted picture is seen beyond the rustic arbor that shelters the real fruit in the foreground. Its beauty and simplicity adds a contrast to the many striking dioramas that take you outdoors with such startling reality.

home in San Diego for 1916; this includ- lings furnished to the settler with 160 ing the family of living beaver that work acres of land by the Canadian Govern- at the construction of a real dam in actual ment. The size of the trees and shrubs, water before a Canadian forest diorama in which were planted by the settler two years which it is almost impossible to discern after he commenced to plow the first sod, which are the real forest trees, and which shows the richness of the soil. In the fore- are on the painted canvas. ground may be seen mounted specimens of The first great striking diorama on en- the different game birds and water fowl tering this wonderful building at San that abound on the prairies and streams of Diego, is that of a Canadian home, show- the western provinces. This picture is the ing the process of development during the first section of a panorama portraying farm twelve years from virgin prairie to the scenes, bird and animal life of Canada. heighth of production. The young trees Other views of the same panorama, depict- and growing grass in the foreground are ing the land of the past and the land of the real, as is a part of the stream. Where the present are shown in the illustrations se- real prairie ends and the painted growing cured for this article. crops and the flowing river begins, no novice In the next diorama, life-sized bison and can clearly indicate, so perfect is the art of elk, stuffed, of course, stand in the fore- the painter and that of the model worker ground upon a real prairie, and far off combined and blended. are seen the cattle that have taken their The trees seen in the picture were seed- place, but the eye cannot surely tell which THE MID-PACIFIC 223

When the curtain is rolled up upon this diorama, you look down upon the wheat fields of Canada. From the foreground of such a diorama you may pluck the ears of real wheat from a field of grain that extends back seemingly for miles. Above the diorama frame are colored views of Canadian farm scenes. of the animals are the result of the taxi- the world. They were furnished for this dermist's skill, and which the painter's. exhibit by the Provincial Government of This diorama advertises the wonderful Quebec. They came from the northern stock ranges of Canada. part of that province, and traveled fifteen In the next diorama the Canadian moun- days to the exposition, which shows their tains are advertised as the sportsman's hardy nature. paradise; the beasts and birds in the fore- So excellent a deception is this diorama, ground are as real as stuffed animals can that it is worthy of a closer view, and in be, and beyond their stamping ground is this we see a stuffed beaver close against seen the magnificent forest that further the painted canvas, but only the eye of the away still has been cleared to give place to expert can tell which is the painting and the wonderful fruit orchards that have which the reality in these wonderful dio- made Canada famous. ramas of Canadian life and scenery. Next is the diorama where the real live Next is a diorama showing the city of (not stuffed) beavers are seen, and this is Vancouver from the Sound, with its won- an excellent illustration showing the beaver derful shipping in action in the foreground, at work. In the center are two beavers moving back and forth, while adjoining working on one of the countless beaver this is a diorama of the cultivated region dams to be found in the streams of Canada. behind Vancouver, with its grain elevators These little engineers are known as the and running trains — the foreground to a earliest wood cutters and dam builders of great panoramic painting of the agricultural 224 THE MID-PACIFIC

This part of the Canada exhibit is very little different in appearance from a corner in the horticultural department of the Pan-Pacific Industrial Museum in Honolulu. Such exhibits in odd corners where the diorama may not be installed are often of fascinating interest to the expert.

wonders of British Columbia and Western the home industries of the people who send Canada. them. In another diorama, from an arbor, From rural Australasia, perhaps, would where apples lie upon the real grass, you be expected dioramas illustrating sheep see men picking and packing the fruit from raising, grain growing, and the cattle the trees, but you find it difficult to real- ranges, but from the cities might well come ize that the men are painted upon canvas, dioramas showing the commerce that en- while some of the apple trees, you know ters and leaves the great ocean marts of the not which, are real and others illusions of Island Continents. the painter's brush. There are scores of From the Philippines, Java, Japan, these marvelous dioramic representations of China, Korea, and the isles of the Pacific, Canada's greatness, her mineral and indus- should come first of all dioramas that trial wonders, while in the aisles and in odd would illustrate in the foreground the lead- corners are to be seen and studied in jars ing industries and handiwork of the peo- and in cases the products of her grain fields ple of these lands. Further, every country and orchards. of the Pacific, it is hoped, will send scenic It is proposed for the 1919 Pan-Pacific dioramas that will tempt the tourist to Exposition in Honolulu to collect from visit the wonder spots of the Pacific. every part of the Pacific, dioramic exhibi- Each great city of the Pacific is asked tions of the greatness of Pacific countries, to send a diorama picturing its glories, and to combine these as far as possible with and each great industrial body will be THE MID-PACIFIC 225

1 This main gallery in the Canada Building at the San Diego Exposition indicates how the light for the dioramas is arranged from above, strained through cheesecloth. The passages from either side of the main hall lead to the dioramas, every space in the hall is utilized for the exhibit of Canadian products. Note the absence of ponderous and unsightly exhibits.

urged to contribute dioramas illustrative about the Great Ocean have already voiced of the arts and industries of sections of Pa- a desire to support such an institution at cific lands. the Ctoss-roads of the Pacific, and this in- Steps are now being taken to gather in stitution is the voluntary getting together, the Pan-Pacific Industrial Museum in Ho- first of the men of Hawaii who have nolulu, models of dioramas of Hawaiian achieved great success, and the masses who scenes. Such a model, showing the ancient have helped to this success, so that now each method of tapa making, is in the Bishop side wishes to co-operate with and aid the Museum, Honolulu, and a picture of a por- other, neither despising the other's helping tion of this is shown on the first page of hand. Next will come the co-operation of this article. all races and peoples of the Pacific, and Ha- From the small beginnings of the Pan- waii invites them to forever hold their coun- Pacific Industrial Museum, located in the cils and conferences of co-operation at Ho- center of the world's trade, it is believed nolulu, at the Cross-roads of the Pacific, that in time will grow one of the most where it is proposed to hold the first great comprehensive commercial museums in the friendly gathering of all races of the Pa- world, for the people of almost every land cific, at the People's Exposition of 1919. 226 THE MID-PACIFIC The Hawaiian flag made by Queen Liliuokalani, borne by Hawaiian cadets, and followed by Hawaiian maids in leis and holokus. • Balboa Day in Hawaii

By JEAN WEST MAURY •

ALBOA DAY, the 25th of Sep- and homage of every nation about the tember, is to be celebrated about Great Ocean. 13 the Great Ocean as Pan-Pacific In Honolulu, where race meets race on Day, and on that date in 1919 it is ex- equal ground, and where the color of a pected that the gates will be opened to man's skin and the slant of his eye has the Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu at nothing at all to do with the color of his the Cross-roads of the Pacific. heart or the slant of his brain, one of the On Balboa Day, 1915, Hawaii's Ex- days they will celebrate from now on is Queen Liliuokalani returned to the old "Pacific Day"—the 25th of September, a royal palace for the first time since she had day that commemorates the discovery of left it twenty-three years before. Once more she occupied her throne, and reigned the Western Ocean by Balboa. It was the as Queen of the Pacific for one brief first public observance of this day that was hour, during which she received the flags held in 1915, four hundred and two years

227 228 THE MID-PACIFIC after the discovery, as a result of the efforts cause it doesn't rain that way in Septem- of the Pan-Pacific Club. ber in Honolulu, but it had rained fit- An Easterner might wonder just what fully and decidedly, from daylight till form a "Pacific Day" celebration would noon. And when it wasn't raining straight take to have in it anything of Pacific sig- out of the clouds, the winds from the rain- nificance. He would not wonder, how- bow-hung valleys swept playful gusts of ever, if he knew the moving spirit of the "liquid sunshine" over the Palace grounds, Pan-Pacific Club, which embraces, in its setting every leaf and every blade of grass scope, all the interests of all the countries a-sparkle in the. light. Therefore, when the bordering on the Pacific Ocean, or having pageant began at two o'clock in the after- possessions lying in or adjacent to the wa- noon, not only had the rain all stopped, ters of the Pacific. What more natural. but there was no dust, and the air was as then, than that all such countries repre- clean as the snow on far distant Mauna sented in Honolulu should take part in Kea. such a celebration? And that is just what Queen Liliuokalani, who, in spite of her happened. advanced years—seventy-seven in that same They had a flag pageant. Everyone who month—is still "the First Lady of the Isl- knows anything about Honolulu, with its ands," had the place of honor on the broad blue skies and wonderful foliage, knows lanai of the Capitol, once her palace, and how well and fittingly it lends itself to to her the flags of all the countries partici- pageantry and processions. The flag pa- pating in the pageant were presented. The geant in the old Palace grounds on Pacific Royal Hawaiian band, without which no Day was only one of the many beautiful public celebration in Honolulu is complete, pageants Honolulu sees every year. It is opened the event with a stirring march, because it represents a democracy of in- and then the presentation of the flags be- terest hitherto unrealized, a depth of un- gan. derstanding that the entire civilized world sooner or later will have to accept, and a Australia came first, while the band feeling of brotherly love that has been played "Advance, Australia Fair." Her dreamed of since the birth( of dreams and flag, star-spangled as Uncle Sam's own ban- sometime will be achieved, that the flag pa- ner, fluttered out softly in the breeze, geant on Pacific Day stands out in the while just behind it marched a sturdy lit- memory above all other pageants seen in tle daughter of Australia carrying the in- Honolulu, or elsewhere. The Pan-Pacific evitable boomerang, indicating that every- Club, with its many ramifications, touches, thing that went out from the Island con would unite the interests of all the tinent came back to it sooner or later. great nations of the world. And when Behind the bearer of the boomerang came the great powers are united in their inter- six little girls, wearing snowy white, with ests, and recognize their union, the little blue sashes, on which was painted the scraps among the little fellows won't word "Australia," and each bearing a tiny amount to much. Although the members blue flag. They were attendants upon the of the Pan-Pacific Club have not made seven ladies, one in simple white, with blue World Peace as any part of their propo- sash and blue flag suspended from the ganda, they, with their efforts toward in- sash, representing the great Common- ternational economic understanding, are wealth itself, and the other six, each in really working toward that end. star-spangled white dress and silver head- But apart from any deeper significance, band, representing the six states of the and just as a show to please the senses, Commonwealth, and all bearing wands the flag pageant was very beautiful. It floating ribbons attached. As the leader began early in the afternoon. All that laid the flag at the feet of the Queen, the morning it had rained—not steadily, be- wands crossed softly, and the representa- THE MID-PACIFIC 229

The New Zealand contigent escorting its flag; Maori maids for Zealandia in tapa and other daughters of New Zealand in red, white and blue.

tives of the states of the united Common- tume of yee-shon and trousers, each dress wealth passed softly on. of different shade or color, distinctive of California, ever quick to see and grasp the thirty provinces of the Republic, these her opportunities at home and abroad, was slender young representatives of very old represented by a native daughter, attended China made a picture not soon to be for- b3 six tiny girls. Bareheaded, they were, gotten. Marching with free, vigorous as befits children of the Golden State, and step, that showed not only the joy of un- carrying small sunshades of white and bound feet, but the privilege of trousers, gold, trimmed with garlands of California they led the way to the capitol, paused poppies. Out of the many flags which while their flag was laid before the have floated over that Land of Promise Queen, then marched joyously on. So are and Fulfillment, California chose for Pa- the young men and women of China cific Day the flag of the Grizzly Bear, marching today, outdistancing in months and this, garlanded with yellow roses, the progress their ancestors of the last followed the flag of Australia to its place four hundred years have made in centu- at the feet of the Queen. ries. Next came Canada, with its red en- Hawaii's own flag came next in the sign. And typical of the hardy, sturdy, pageant. Hawaiian girls, their dark man-made country that it is, the little beauty set off by flowing white, with leis Canadian maiden who bore the flag had in their hair and youth in their tread, at- as her escort six valiant boy scouts. Can- tended the color-bearer, who, like the ada has not yet acknowledged the su- others, was clothed in white, with a premacy of woman. garland of flowers wound round her Picturesque, colorful and beautiful was shapely head. Behind the maidens came the procession of thirty Chinese girls who a detachment of cadets from the Kame- preceded the graceful young bearer of hameha Schools. The Royal Band, the China's national colors. In native cos- same that played at the Queen's corona- 230 THE MID-PACIFIC

The flag of Japan followed by a hundred cadets of Dai Nippon, and with an additional escort of as many Japanese maidens, in national cosume.

tion, played again, as it had played then, sented to the Queen by a native daugh- "Hawaii Ponoi," while all the men pres- ter of Japan. ent bared their heads and all the women Korea, no longer the Hermit Kingdom, ceased their pleasant chattering. And but now a land that is being gradtially then, with no sound but the city's low opened to the commerce of the world, was rumble and the music of Hawaii's national represented by twelve Korean women, air, Hawaii's Queen once more received clad in the interesting costume of their Hawaii's flag. native land. Unlike the women of China The tension was relieved when the flag and Japan, the Korean woman wears no of the Rising Sun appeared, as it did as color, and their costumes of all white on soon as the last strands of "Hawaii Ponoi" Pacific Day showed them as they are seen died on the air. It was such a merry in far-off Korea. Whit quiet dignity and company of Japanese that took part in grace they presented the flag of their the presentation of the flag of Japan, it country to Liliuokalani. was impossible to have any feeling but New Zealand showed the initiative of one of mirth and good cheer. The pro- new blood in a new country in her pa- cession was made up of cadets from geant. New Zealand is not only a British the training-ship Tasei Maru, with several possession, sprinkled all over with enter- officers, of school children and of women, prising Britishers, but it is the home of all of this being typical of Japan, where the picturesque Maoris, close kinspeople everyone, down to the littlest child, is an to the Hawaiians. Therefore, twelve of essential part of the nation. With the the sixteen young ladies representing New graceful bow that marks the Japanese wo- Zealand were robed as Maori maidens. man of good birth and which is equaled, Nine of them, each wearing a letter on I believe, by no other woman in the world, her breast, which, spelling from left to the flag showing the Rising Sun was pre- right, made the word "Zealandia," led THE MID -PACIFIC 231 the procession. Behind the nine came south of the United States, accompanied four others in the classic robe of Britannia, the flag, which was presented to the followed by the last three in distinctive Queen by a young girl. Maori costumes to represent the three isl- In the varied dress of the Philippine ands belonging to New Zealand. The Islands, but all with the great puffed four Britannias and the three Maoris omnipresent sleeves of pina cloth, a num- took the flag up the steps, but there, show- ber of Philippine women and girls, to the ing the deference that British women still music of the Philippine national anthem, give to men, they passed the colors over presented the revolutionary flag of the to one of their countrymen, who pre- Philippines as their part in the pageant. sented it to Her Majesty. Ten sunburnt campfire girls, attractive Oregon, with her widely heralded roses, and picturesque in Indian cosume, with came next. She had no flag, but she had unbound hair and upstanding feather, rep- a pennant, which was borne by three lus- resented the State of Washington, and ty young Oregonians to the capitol steps, made their obeisance to the Queen. where it was surrendered to a young lady Siberia, of whose long-chilled people from the land of the tall pines, who pre- some are finding their way to sunny Ha- sented it to the Queen. waii, was represented by two little Si- A great blue star on a field of white, berian born children, robed in the Russian emblematic of Pan-America, was next in national costume. line. Nine children, dressed to represent Carrying out the purpose of the Pan- the nine countries bordering on the Pacific Pacific Club, whose aim, as I said in the

Ex-Queen Liliuokalani receiving the flag of the Chinese Republic from a Celestial maid, behind whom is Mayor Lane of Honolulu and Prince Kuhio, the Delegate to Washington and once heir presumptive to the Hawaiian throne. 232 THE MID-PACIFIC

beginning, is to benefit not only all coun- young maiden bore the flag of the new tries bordering on the Pacific Ocean, but republic up the broad steps and presented all countries having possessions bordering it to the Queen. on the waters of the Pacific, Portugal The final celebration of Balboa Day took part in the Pacific Day flag pageant, took place in the great banquet hall of as a country having a possession in lands the Pan-Pacific Club, and here where bordering on the Pacific. Macao, China, gathered some five hundred men and wo- settled so many years ago, when Portugal men of each nationality of the Pacific, the was sending out colonies to all parts of Queen turned over the emblems to the the world, is still a Portuguese possession. Pan-Pacific Club, and from each of the Portuguese in Honolulu, though loyal tables, representing the different Pacific Americans, remember their mother-coun- nations, a speaker gave a toast to the flag try, and miss no opportunity to honor of his country. These flags now fly from Portugal. Their part in the pageant was the dozen flagstaffs above the Pan-Pacific very pretty and impressive. Eight lovely young girls in national costume, with Building at the San Diego Exposition, and twelve young men and twelve young wo- in 1919 will be raised on Balboa Day, men, wearing sashes of the Portuguese the 25th of September, to honor the open- colors, formed themselves into a letter "P" ing of the Pan-Pacific Exposition in Hono- at the capitol steps, while still another lulu.

rl part of the Pan-Pacific parade on Balboa Day in the Palace Grounds, Honolulu, showing the maids of China carrying the flag of the Republic, followed by the Canadian Boy Scouts with their flag, the Hawaiians, and then the Japanese. Solomon Island headdress

(THE LOG OF THE SNARK) A Solomon Island Cruise ,Mrs. London continues her delightfully interesting account of the Cruise of the "Snark"

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON *

Curious Sabbaths these, at the ends of We are anchored in eighteen fathoms, the earth. A week ago we were in the with 250 feet of chain. In fact, the good bush village on Tana, and now, here we old hook is in a hole in the sandy bot- are at last in our first port in the Solomon tom ; and we are about four cable-lenghts group, inhabited by the most blood thirs- from the beach village. The bay is on ty and trecherous of any known savages the west side of the little island, which —head-hunters, who prowl for prey by rises five hundred feet and is beautifully night, on land and sea, rarely attacking wooded. unless they feel they have their victims Yesterday we were a tired and yawn- at their mercy without risk to themselves. ing lot of Snarkites, after another shout- And this going on today—indeed, on the ing night of thunder. The sky was terri- next small island to the northwest, Ugi, fic, brilliant intermittent flashes opening where we are bound, the trader before up deep heavens of illuminated cloud- the present one was surprised and mur- lands, followed by fierce hells of light- dered by a canoe-raid from the big bad ning-bolts and pitchy dark. We lay off island of Malaita—the worst in the and on again that night of the 26th, and world. yesterday was calm and lovely as a day

* Copyrighted by the Author. 233 234 THE MID-PACIFIC

in the Doldrums, the ocean like a billow- feasting. There are some much-hack- ing breadth of woven blue fabric, so fine neyed lines in "Greenland's Icy Moun- were the rippling wrinkles, strewn with tains" that come unbidden in the face tiny "Portuguese men o' war." All day of the facts of life in Melanesia. we could see San Christoval; but our When morning broke, this Sunday "tempery" engine saw fit to go on strike, morning, we found we had drifted a bit and there was no wind. We worked as but made no headway. It is vast com- usual, and Jack was much gratified to fort to find our sinned-againt Snark do- find in his books a diagram of a different ing the normally-expected, and not the application of the Summer Method, "inconceivable and monstrous." which he had already reasoned out inde- Martin started the propeller at 6:30, pendently for himself the previous day. and Jack set our course for Santa Anna, At sunset Santa Anna pricked out of or where it should be, for only squalls the horizon—"Exactly where I wanted could be seen in that direction. We it," Jack affirmed. There was nothing "steamed" for seven hours, without a to do but heave to again for the night, dissent from the engine, at first on a the isle of our desire melting in copper calm sea, and later with a brisk trade •mist. Over the mainland—San Christo- wind in. addition. "Just see us kite !" val—there were gigantic piles of smoky Martin panted from out his diminutive cloud, letting forth great bursts of sun- hatch. The sparkling water was litter- set flame—reminding one of mighty sac- ed with flotsam—seaweed, fruit, banyan- rificial fires of the gods of the Solo- leaves, twigs, grasses, cocoanut shells. mons at cannibal rites. Out of the gor- We were puzzled by what appeared to geous chaos of color and fire, there up- be a long yellow shoal ahead, and I con- thrust a lofty cloud-pillar like gray mar- fess to a, little prickle of nerves when we ble, that slowly blossomed out two broad struck the discolored water—merely a wings of gold from its head. Never was calm streak yellowed by a peculiar light anything like it in the kaleidoscope of effect from the sky. Over the long glassy the sky. And off to the east a false beau- swell of it we fared, flying-fish darting . tiful sunset flaunted fanrays of vivid about, every one alert, and Henry and azure against a background of palest Tehei dropping vowelly exclamations, rose-tourmaline that burned to ashy their eyes sparkling. One or the other crimson. Higher up grew fairy moun- was aloft all the time. Jack was tense tain ranges of pure gold and ruby, with and keyed-up, and I could see he was delicate straight cloud-lines drawn suffering physically ; but he was living across. Trade wind clouds puffed up high, just the same. like pink roses out of the soft purple and As we neared our passage between rose sea, and to the south a city of the two small islands, we noticed lines dreams glinted on the horizon. Close at of black dots on the long low points hand myriads of fish leaped in the color- reaching out from either island. We got ed flood, and subsided only when the the binoculars and it was with a real, brilliancy went out of the world. Then scary thrill I made sure that the ones San Christoval bulked ominously in its on the port bow were moving back and cowl of cloud, and we could not but im- forth restlessly. Soon the glasses show- agine the benighted bush-heathen in their ed them to be unmistakable human be- mountain lairs, killing 'and eating, hating ings—black, naked, gesticulating and in- and loving—with scant love—fattening creasing in numbers. The dots on the their little women and children for the Santa Anna point of reef proved to be THE MID-PACIFIC 235

Solomon Islanders selling dried coconut meat to the copra dealers.

merely rocks. I can assure you that white cowrie shells, and manned by wool- every man of us—including myself !- ly-headed, gleaming-bodied, excited knew exactly where his gun was. There blacks. It was all so savagely beautiful, is nothing too bad that the books can so unreal—so much stage-scenery fault- say about the Solomon Islanders, and lessly executed and acted. And we were from Samoa on, the word of mouth con- hardly at anchor, directed to our present firmations were a-plenty, so we were holding-place by a native who spoke a wide-awake and cautious. queer sort of English, than we could see No canoes put out, however, and we a bevy of similar canoes approaching sailed on, I at the wheel, rounding the from Santa Catalina. It would seem that reef of Santa Anna and, finally, in a few vessels enter this Archipelago from sudden, whipping rain-squall, passing the eastern end. through the narrow entrance. I'll never The islander who piloted us to our forget the picture, as I stole glances from anchorage, gave his name : the compass by which I was steering very "I Peter. I Christian." carefully, guided by Jack's hand-waved But he looks it not. And it turns out directions and frequent shout, over the that, being the worst of the boiling at noise of the engine : "Steady !" Across Port Mary, and even now awaiting judg- the jagged jumble of outer reef along ment from the commissioner for threat- which we slid looking for the passage, ening the manager of the company (for with a background of palms and lofty whom he gathers copra) with a spear, he thatched roofs and a wooded hillside, was the only one who mentioned his rose stately the most beautiful canoes, claim to religion, or took the trouble to more beautiful than Venetian gondolas be decent to us. He does not know —elegant of body with high graceful why we are here, or who we are—per- ends, carved, painted, outlined with haps to watch him, for all he can tell. 236 THE MID-PACIFIC

He is very ingratiating, very nonchalant "No—no—but there's lots of 'em down and careless, in an elegant sort of way, at Jack's at Ugi." and, as he is likely to be useful in find- "Pretty snug little harbor this," Jack ing curios for us, we meet him half-way. volunteers. He has the most remarkable eyes, bril- "Sure—yes—but there's a better one liant, shallow, wicked, with a soulless down at Jack's at Ugi." glitter of utter lack of conscience. Christmas is the one event of the year Peter explained, in what is called to Butler. He spends it with Jack at beche de mer English, that there was Ugi. He looks forward to it, and back only one white man here, Tom Butler, upon it. Indeed he practically never whose shack we could see ashore, and opens his mouth without getting in some that Tom Butler was away getting co- reference to Jack at Ugi. pra on the other side of the island, and We went ashore with Tom Butler in would be back tomorrow. But Tom got the whaleboat to his shack—a ragged wind of us and returned today, rowed wooden cottage with thatched roof. He by two black "boys," in a whaleboat. He was too weak to open his double-pad- is as near a dead man as a live man can locked door, and I did it for him and be—a ghastly object. He wabbled aboard then poked about the premises seeing almost helpless, a dead hand bumping what I could see, while Jack, very much against the gangway ropes—some tropic under the weather, lolled supine in a ailment having robbed it of all sensation rotting canvas chair on the rickety porch. and power. Then there dropped in the queerest bunch "Lucky it's not your right hand," Jack of callers I ever had—stark naked wo- sympathized. men and girls, with close-cropped woolly heads and horrid blackened teeth. The "But I'm left-handed," Butler quaver- young women had rather pretty figures, ed with a sickly smile on his bloodless face. He resembles a white-faced, snub- except for the peculiar horizontal elonga- nosed, frecked Irish school urchin, and tion of their breasts ; but any facial beau- his one obsession is his friend the trader ty they might have is sadly marred by at Ugi—"Jack at Ugi." All the sense their unlovely cropped heads, which make them resemble microcephalus he seems to have he expands in being idiots. One Neapolitan looking girl from kind to us with what is left of his Irish good-heartedness. After one gets used the other side of the island, must have to his graveyard personality and the wan- been a sport, or had some Polynesian dering bluish gaze that slowly focuses as (she did not look like a half-caste), for she had fine, wavy brown hair several he gathers his faculties to answer ques- t;ons, he does not bother one's sympathies inches long standing out loftly all over her head. The men allow their own hair much, because what there is of him is perfectly contented. But conversation to attain a sizzable fuzz. Did I say the boils down to something like this : females were stark naked? The maidens usually wear a single strand of twine or "How's copra here ?—much of it ?" cocoanut fiber around the waist, the mat- An eye-focusing pause. . rons being distinguished by the addition "Oh, plenty ; but Jack at Ugi got out of a single string dependent in front. a hundred tons last Christmas." Very much overdressed wives attach to Or: their waist-string a grassy fringe fore "So you have no missionaries here and aft, about six inches square. I tried any more?" to bargain for one of these "dresses." THE MID -PACIFIC 237

but the woman shot a terrified glance at be from the monkeyish travesties of hu- her man as she vehemently shook her man beings on Tana. They are well- head at me. Tom Butler explained that sized, and well-formed, muscular, grace- it would be a mortal offense for her to ful. Their shoulders are peculiar, how- part with her fringe. ever—massive enough, but lacking the Three slim virgins danced for us, to squareness we admire. They round down the music ( ?) of a jews harp at the upon the arms instead of outjutting. mouth of one—a slow-stepping hula in And oh ! the ornaments ! We have be- which the dancers incline backward from come more or less inured to the lovely head to knee, the lower-leg and feet ang- practice of civilized women piercing ling to keep the curious balance. This their ears ; but here, when you see the performance took place surreptitiously in lobe-hole stretched until it accommodates the cottage, as it seems the males do not a wooden disk eight inches in circum- approve of strange white men witnessing ference, it makes you think. it. We have returned to the yacht laden I have always idolized the human form with yams, cocoanuts and papaias. The —filled my house with copies of Greek bay is beautiful—never did I see water statuary, collected pictures of nudes, and so brillinatly, luminously turquoise—with reveled in the beauty of the cinctured a dazzling band of white beach that is native peoples we have seen on this voy- not white but cream, not cream but pink, age; but I must confess that there is a a rim of sparkling foam at the water's startle when one first sees women going edge breaking against the ornate canoes about entirely naked. I shall become hauled up, and lovely emerald arboreal used to it in no time, I suppose ; but the foliage behind, palms, papaias, hau trees, initial impression is a bit of a shock. The and luxuriant thicket, broken here and men here all wear a loin-cloth, no mat- there by the somber, uncanny roofs of ter how short it may be of its purpose. the canoe houses where dead chiefs are These people are as different as can hung to dry ! 238 THE MID-PACIFIC

The bones of the first discoverer of the Jenolan Caves lie in the Orient Chamber; in the heat of the chase he plunged through a hole in the roof, some thousands of years ago—his bones are petrified. The Road to the Caves.

O Jenolan Caves in New South Wales

By UNA KIDGELL O O

The wonder of Jenolan Caves is an grandeur and charm of the endless varie- oft-told tale, yet who can say that the ty and extraordinary formations that go remarkable beauty of that unique cavern- to the making of this mysterious pheno- ous country in the deep valley at the head menon. of the Jenolan River, and bisected by the Everyone knows that the caves are Fish and Cox Rivers, has ever been ade- enormous underground chambers in the quately described ? The truth is Jenolan mountains, and that the formation, re- defies description, and though one spoke sembling cathedrals, domes, lofty organ with the tongue of an angel or wrote pipes, groups of statuary coral bowers, with the pen of the Chronicler of Revela- figures of human beings, animals, birds, tions, it would be impossible to bring to reptiles, lace-work, sweeping shawl drap- the mind's eye of one who has not been eries, ice floes, fairy grottoes, columns, there anything like a true picture of the flowers, fruit, fishes, satyrs, sybqs, toads

239 240 THE MID-PACIFIC

Great curtains and showers of exquisite whiteness, translucent and be- wildering in beauty, shape from the roofs of the Jenolan caves. THE MID-PACIFIC 241

Boating on the Underground River. and‘baboons, are the result of stalactitic capable of appreciating more than a cer- dripitOne growth, the different colors be- tain amount of sensation at a time, any ing dile to the presence of iron in the more than it can take in more than a solutions of carbonate of lime from certain amount of music at a stretch, which they are formed. But given this which fact accounts for the physical las- scientific information and an accurate situde on experiences after a five hours' and detailed description of each cave, one rendition of "The Twilight of the Gods" would still have no real idea of the vi- or other lengthy "Ring" performances. sion that awaits the eye. Therefore each By the way, the simile is not inapt, for must see for himself, and for the seeing these is something strangely suggestive I would suggest to the aesthetic not the of Wagnerian backgrounds in these vast hurried visit of the tripper who inspects chambers of the earth, and by a very four caves in twenty-four hours and goes slight effort of the imagination one can away bodily weary with the tramping of see Siegfried the Horned or the mighty many miles and the climbing up and Wotan traversing the misty paths, or down of many hundreds of step ladders, Brunhilde on Kundry plunging into the and brain muddled with the sight of so dark pools that yawn below the cavern- much sublimity yet boastful that he has ous rocks. Such scenes as thees require `done" so much in such a short space of to be approached on bended knees—not time. My motto is "one day, one cave," literally, though that is also necessary at for the inspection of any one of them is times—and in the 'devotional attitude of a physically tiring process unless one is the true worshipper of the beautiful. a natural troglodyte, and when the flesh Imagine, for instance, the feelings inspir- is weary beauty makes but little appeal to ed by the "Temple of Baal," that magni- the senses. Moreover, the brain is not ficent cavern over 200 feet long and 60 242 THE MID-PACIFIC

In the Orient Cave is a great limestone column that trickling drops have taken countless ages to build, and this is named Commonwealth Pillar. THE MID-PACIFIC 243

Forests of Samites and Stalagmites. feet wide, with its many chambers hung, royally do both "Left" and "Right" live as if by the hand of the Supreme Artist, up to their regal title. They are like the with superb curtains of glistening samite galleries of the Gods, full of wondrous shading from snowy white through all treasures culled from the distant cycles, the tones of amber, orange and brown. and the formations in one section are In the centre of the Temple is a huge reminiscent of the sculpture room in the mass of stalagmite thirty feet across, Louvre, while in another mighty organs chiselled like an immense altar to the occupy all the available space. Then by gods. On one side of the Temple walls, way of contrast fairy-like grottoes and occupying a length of about thirty feet, jewelled mysteries call forth all one's is an exquisite piece of white marble sta- admiration. In the Right Imperial is the tuary in the form of a group of angels ; famous Crystal City of Fortifications, it is most perfectly proportioned, and the which is of peculiar interest in these flowing robes and sorrowful droop of the martial days. wings of the angels recall most vividly The Skeleton Cave, which can only be a famous piece of sculpture in St. Peters, visited when the flood waters permit, is Rome. one of the most popular of the caves, per- A similar effect of exaltation is ex- haps because it is one of the few that perienced after a visit to the Imperial possess what may be called any sugges- Caves, which were named after the tion of "still life," and as its name sug- Prince Imperial of France, and right gests, it is the home of a skeleton of an 244 THE MID-PACIFIC

Everywhere in Jenolan Caves are wondrous grottoes, some of them lighted by hidden electric lights that turn on and off to the bewilderment and delight of the visitors. THE MID-PACIFIC 245

Fairyland palaces of dripping waters turned to transparent limestone. oboriginal man partly embedded in the unique charm that entitles it to claim to stalagmitic floor. This eerie and pathetic be the "best" of them all, but in such a relic is too morbid to be dwelt upon long, storehouse of treasures it is impossible so that it is a great relief to the sensitive to employ degrees of comparison. It is, to have the impression removed by the however, safe to say, that in the whole next exhibit, which is the "Bath of. of the inspections there is nothing more Venus," in its dainty elegance and per- fascinatingly novel than the River Cave, fection of detail, the most exquisite thing into which one descends through weird in the whole of the Caves. It consists and awesome passages until one reaches of a graceful white bower covered over a deep chasm whose darkness could be with a fringed canopy under which is a felt with shut eyes. On reaching the semi-circle of translucent dripstone hang- bottom of the abyss, the guide turns on ing symmetrically over a crystaline basin the electric light and reveals the dark filled with waters, and hovering on the waters of the River Styx illumined from brink, preparatory to taking a plunge into end to end with rods of electric light. its clear depths, in the perfect form of This dread stream is crossed in a flat Venus herself. bottomed punt with Charon steericg the The "Arch" Cave, the "Lucas," the way, usually to the accompaniment of "Aladdin," "Mafeking," "Jersey," the merry laughter unlike the sounds that "Gem of Jenolan," the "Red Cave" and greet the ear of the other Charon. the "Orient" all have their own special After gazing at such sublime works of attractions, and in each there is some nature as I have attempted to indicate. 246 THE MID-PACIFIC

In one of the caverns of Jenolan, the River Cave, flows a stream, and from the boat that plies its waters may be viewed the wonderful stalagamite grottoes that abound. THE MID-PACIFIC 247 one wants no further impression for the lationc. Mr. Wiburd has lived at Jeno- rest of the day, for to crowd out one lan for over thirty years, and he not memory with the picture of another is only knows and loves every stone in the to be wasteful of precious things and a caves—and many of the finest caverns jumble of impressions is quite destructive were discovered by him—but he also to mind picturing. knows the name and history of every My idea of a profitable visit to Jeno- bird, beast, fern, flower or tree in the lan is to visit a cave in the morning, and district, and his fund of valuable infor- to take a walk 'in the afternoon, or vice mation is at the disposal of the inter- versa, and the average visitor to Jenolan ested. will be surprised to learn that there are It is rather interesting to reflect upon walks in that curiously formed country the growth of the popularity of Jenolan, where the Caves Hotel appears to have which was first opened to the public in been dropped down from the skies on the 1841. At that period a mere shed was only hollow in the hills large enough for provided for the visitors, but gradually the purpose. There are, however, many the fame of the place spread abroad, delightful rambles within easy distance and it was found necessary to erect fur- of the Hotel, especially along the banks ther accommodation, which increased of the river which meanders through the from year to year until in 1878 the gov- hills for miles and miles, occasionally ernment opened a fine new structure built breaking out into exquisite waterfalls, of the Caves limestone, capable of ac- and about a couple of miles down from commodating 150 people. That com- the Hotel it widens into a lovely lake paratively imposing edifice, however, surrounded by high hills that make it proved absolutely inadequate for the look like a huge emerald dropped from housing of the constant flow of visitors the heavens. This lake is dammed up from all portions of the globe, and in in connection with the electric light in- this year of grace there has been added stallation which lights up the whole of a new wing of three stories, containing the Caves, a work in itself a triumph of forty bedrooms, large dining rooms, bil- artistic as well as of mechanical skill. liard and ballrooms, which now makes There are other equally interesting ram- the Caves Hotel, surrounded by its lofty bles to be taken, and the wise pedestrian at Jenolan will enlist the sympathies of trees and luxuriant flower garden, one of the Head Guide, Voss Wiburd, if he the most attractive halting places in Aus- wants to thoroughly enjoy his perambu- tralia. 248 THE MID-PACIFIC

•:.

•:! 21 bit of Java, seen from Buitenzorg.

O On to Buitenzorg

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.

This morning we called on the Amer- He stated that the Javanese are a ican Consul, Mr. B. S. Rairden, a gen- hybrid race, which is evidently true. . tleman who has been here since 1892, We called at the tourist bureau and and found him very pleasant and will. saw the assistant manager, who out- ing to give us all the information we lined a week's trip through Java. He might ask for. He stated that what stated that the reason the trains in we supposed were natives and who Java did not run at night was because seemed to live pleasantly in nice they would have to double the employed houses, were really Eurasians, and that force ; when night came the natives the men of the Army are allowed to would go to sleep and nothing could keep their concubines in the barracks keep them awake, and white men would and the illegitimate children grow up be too expensive. The natives are paid in the barracks and become soldiers. 80 guilders a month, while it would be

249 250 TH•E MID-PACIFIC necessary to pay the white men 200 where we saw natives. Across their guilders a month. The tourist bureau shoulders were poles, from either end of gets out some splendid maps in sec- which hung great baskets of fruit. I tions, in a little guide book, and they bought about four dozen mangosteens have printed forms or itineraries for for eight American cents, and they one, two, and three-week trips through were delicious. All along the way the Java that are really excellent. For this country was beautiful and the sar- line of work they seem eminently fit. onged natives very picturesque, but I called on the Dutch Packet Com- with it all there was not that dainty pany and had another long talk with beauty that one finds travelling about the Secretary, who said that he had in Hawaii. At Buitenzorg we put up slept over the proposition of a five-dol- at the Du Chemin de Fer Hotel, which lars-a-day inter-island cruise, and that is near the station, at six guilders a the company would agree to it. day, each of us having a large room We called again at the Tourist Bu- with double bed. and private bath. reau and found the director quite busy, The view from the Hotel Bellevue, but he had just received a copy of the under the same management as the February number of the Mid-Pacific Du Chemin de Fer, is one of the pret- Magazine and let us see it. tiest in Java. Far in the distance is We are now getting packed and seen the great mountain of Salak ris- ready to go for a trip into the interior ing from the fields. It reminds one of Java. of some of the Hawaiian mountains, but the foreground is all different. February 1.rth There was a wide stream coming down It was .not quite daylight when the toward the hotel, in which yellow and Malay boy awoke us and brought a brown-skinned men and women were cold breakfast and hot coffee on the disporting themselves. The hotel is on lanai, and at six o'clock a Victoria an eminence and you look down on the rolled up and we were taken to the cocoanut trees, the banana groves and nearby Konigsplein Station. Here we the grass-thatched bamboo houses of got our second-class tickets to Buiten- the natives, and all along the river zorg, and found that all the other and along the banks of every stream white people also travelled second. The the native villages are consecutive. fare was two guilders. The cars were With the Bellevue Hotel is connected quite comfortable, two seats on one a swimming pool. side and one on the other as the gage It was eight o'clock in the morning is narrow—three and a half feet. A when we started out for the Botanical little after 6:30 we pulled out of the Gardens. We entered through the station, arriving at Buitenzorg in about wrong gate at first and wandered down an hour and a half. The scenes along under the great banyan trees through the railway were of considerable in- the park, where the deer were about terest. There were patches of forests as tame as sheep, but we were turned where the fruit seemed to grow wild, back by Dutch soldiers, to return and little villages here and there. We through another entrance that took us passed through the great rice fields through the stables of the Governor where the women were planting the General's Palace. The stables seem to rice, and the water-buffalo doing all house a hundred fine-looking horses the plowing. As the country got higher and the palace is certainly more exten- the rice fields were terraced. Every- sive than any private or public resi- THE MID-PACIFIC 251

deuce in America. It all seemed a into the little bits of narrow zig-zag magnificent show and waste. lanes of the native villages—a laby- The gardens ARE beautiful. We rinth of little paths among bamboo first entered through a fernery where houses so close together that they a lot of old Governors or something seemed one. Up and down we climbed of the sort are buried, and then through until we got out again and found our- the forests of the gardens for several selves near the Bellevue Hotel where miles. we enjoyed the beautiful view and then These Botanical Gardens are more we crossed the river and wandered than beautiful, but for attractiveness through the native villages there. In they in no way compare with the one place we looked down many feet Botanical Gardens in Melbourne, al- on a great shady giant bamboo grove, though as scientific gardens they are under which houses were built, and unquestionably the first in the world. along a great ravine men and women All the trees, and strange shrubs, and were washing clothes by pounding families of orchids are there, but some- them on the stones of the stream. Be- how as you become acquainted with yond was the racing river. Along the them they lose their quaintness and by-paths we passed under liche nut strangeness, and no longer seem out of trees and under great pamelo fruit place. So the walk is simply one until at last we wandered back to the through a great and beautiful park. Hotel du Chemin de Fer after a three The great lily ponds and Victoria Re- and a half hours' walk. gia with its leaves five feet in diameter In the afternoon we took a walk by are beautiful, but these are seen else- one of the little streams that flows where. The prettiest thing is the roar- down to the river. It was very inter- ing torrent that flows through the gar- esting along the banks by and under den and beyond this the little native the native houses. The Dutch, with village and bridge, which is more artis- their characteristic love of order, have tic and picturesque than any viaduct walled in their streams and where that could be built. there might have been falls and cas- We left the park by an avenue of cades there are now cement slides. Canary Trees. It was a beautiful ave- However, it is pretty and attractive. nue with great long trunks covered When we got to the river we clambered with vines. down the great steep banks and wan- In the Chinese quarter we wandered dered along the edge where the women about in the mud, visiting the great and children were in swimming. It long bazaar evidently built by the gov- was slippery along the narrow foot- ernment, with its little stalls of fruit, fish, vegetables and meat. It was all path, the banks ascending almost per- kaleidoscopic, variegated, interesting pendicularly with their tropical foliage and malodorous. —a green wall up which we clambered From the Chinese quarter we drifted back into the town. 252 "FFIE MID-PACIFIC

.7,

The finest polo ponies in the world are born, bred and reared in Hawaii. One of these Helen C., owned by Walter F. Dillingham, is even more famous on the mainland than in Hawaii, for he has made a wonderful record in international polo classics. Polo at Kapiolani Park, Honolulu.

Polo In Hawaii

By LAURENCE REDINGTON

Would polo flourish in Pololand if two eral islands of the Hawaiian group that hundred miles of uneasy ocean stretched keeps the game up to the high standard between matches, and a hundred miles which prevails in Uncle Sam's mid-Paci- of motoring lay between the player and fic Territory. an afternoon's practice ? While polo at home means much trav- That is a problem that enthusiasts fam- eling for men and mounts, outside com- iliar with American and British polo con- petition for the Hawaii players means a ditions—the latter before the war of campaign of several months duration, course—might well ponder in a general and a round 4200 miles on the ocean, consideration of the game as played in to say nothing of the long railroad jumps the Hawaiian Islands. The hundred miles from one California polo center to anoth- of road travel is the extreme, but the er, if the Pacific Coast circuit is made. double century of sea voying is the reg- All this runs into the tens of thousands, ular thing, when inter-island matches and it is therefore little wonder that up are to be played, and it is the keen rival- to comparatively recent years American ry between the polo factions of the sev- poloists have known practically nothing

253 254 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 255 of the Hawaiian stick swingers and their and more expense than the game was playing of the game. worth. Enter a new factor ; the Army. But in the spring of 1913 five of the It is largely due to the development of keenest of the Island poloists decided Army polo that the game came back to that an invasion of "the Coast," as con- its own in Hawaii ; that the inter-island tinental United States is known in Ha- championship tournament has been re- waii, was about due, and after months tained as the big polo fixture of the year, of preparation and the expenditure of a and that the class of players and the great deal of money, these five enthu- stamp of ponies has steadily improved. siasts found themselves in the midst of By this it is not meant that Army polo- California's banner polo season. Play- ists gave the local teams more than they ing on strange fields, and on ponies that were looking for. On the contrary, with were not fully acclimated, the Hawaii the exception of the year 1911 the Serv- team went through nine important tour- ice teams have been beaten by over- naments, winning five and putting up whelming scores by the two leading lo- such a stiff fight in the other four that cal aggregations, Oahu and Maui. But the trip was practically a triumphal the Cavalry and Field Artillery players march for the overseas contingent. They were real enthusiasts. They worked spotted Hawaii firmly on the polo map, hard, and almost every season they had and opened the eyes of the Eastern and some new man to stiffen their combina- Western players to the fact that only tion. The element of uncertainty, and geographic conditions keep Hawaii from the introduction of new teams and new being a very large factor in American faces, put ginger into the matches, and polo year by year. gave the enthusiasts something to talk As a matter of history, polo has been about. Each year sees added interest in played with varying enthusiasm and skill the championship, and it may not be long in the Hawaiian Islands for just forty before the service players will be on a years. It was in 1876 that the first basis of polo equality with their more matches were staged on the island of experienced and better mounted civilian Maui, and while Oahu, on which island opponents. Honolulu is located, has held the cham- The strongest team that the Islands pionship for the last few years, Maui is can put in the field, an All-Hawaii com- still considered the real home of the bination, as it were, totals 17 goals. The game, turning out more players and fur- Oahu Polo Club, champions for four nishing more enthusiasm season after years past, is rated at 16 goals with season than any of her sister islands. In its first team in the saddle. These are the days when polo was little more than the ratings of the Polo Association, ac- a name in both England and America cording to the 1915 handicap list. The it was a well established and recognized Army has never put better than a 5-goal sport in Hawaii, and it is therefore not team into the big tournament, and as surprising that Hawaiian players and the inter-island championship is a scratch Hawaiian ponies can hold their own with affair, it is apparent that the odds are the pick of the mainland talent. overwhelmingly against the Service play- About ten years ago Hawaiian polo ers. In the opinion of a number of good seemed to be suffering from a species judges of polo, the Army players are of dry rot. Interest flagged, and the long under-handicapped as individuals, but do journeys between the islands for home not live up to their individual abilities and home matches seemed more trouble when taken as a team. The big matches 256 THE MID-PACIFIC

between local and army teams in the last there are many now playing the game few years would have been very close in the Islands that also touch champion- by handicaps, victory falling first to one ship class. The season of 1915 brought side and then to the other, and there some new material from cover that will is a chance that some handicap system be heard from. will be put in force in connection with The inter-island championship, which the annual matches, although so close is the big polo event of the year, is al- are the old rivals Maui and Oahu, and ways played on Oahu, at Moanalua, the so keen the rivalry, that the title will private field of Mr. Samuel M. Damon. probably continue to be settled on a This field of splendid turf, set in a natu- scratch basis. ral amphitheater, is probably one of the When it comes to mounts, the Hawaii- most beautiful polo fields in the world. an teams can hold their own with any- It is about six miles distant from Ho- thing short of an international combina- nolulu, and fifteen from Schofield Bar- tion. Some of the best ponies are Ha- racks, the post of the Cavalry and Field waiian bred, and some have been im- Artillery, and on the day of a big match ported from California. On the 1913 the field is circled on three sides by a trip to the mainland the Hawaiian players double tier of parked motor cars, the gathered in a number of green mounts, contour of the ground making the two- which, with careful schooling, turned out level arrangement possible. There is very well this last season. plenty of good stabling, and it is the cus- Two ponies from far Hawaii figured tom for the service teams to go into camp in the international matches of 1913 and a week or so before the tournament, 1914, and became well known to polo while competitors from the outlying is- men in the Eastern states. This pair, lands send their ponies over well ahead both of which are still playing topnotch of time, following at a later date them- polo, are Carry the News, owned by Dr. selves. Will Baldwin, and Walter F. Dilling- Playing each year on its home field ham's Helen C. The former was ridden undoubtedly gives Oahu a slight "edge" for two full periods in the internationals over their most formidable rivals, the of 1913, by Harry Payne Whitney, who Maui four, but it is always a case of thought so well of the Hawaiian bred three teams on Oahu, counting two from that he asked Dr. Baldwin to name his the Mounted Service, and it would be own price. Carry the News was not for manifestly impracticable to hold the tour- sale at any price, however, but when the nament away from the island. The Maui call came for all American poloists to mallet men are such thoroughgoing stand back of the 1914 internationalists sportsmen that they never mention the with the best that their stables could pro- fact that they have to bring themselves duce, Dr. Baldwin again loaned his crack and their mounts across the water year mount, and Carry the News made a sec- after year, while Oahu has only to stay ond trip across ocean and continent, in at home and get ready. Once or twice charge of a special trainer sent all the a year, however, Oahu pays a return way from Meadowbrook to Honolulu by visit, but as the championship does not Mr. Whitney. Mr. Dillingham's Helen hang on the result of the games played C was also chosen a second time, while on the Valley Island, as Maui is termed, Frank F. Baldwin's Dandy was in the no title changes hands when Maui takes 1913 international string. Besides these the long end of the score, as the team ponies with international reputations, often does at home. THE MID-PACIFIC 257

No polo story of Hawaii would be of being a topnotch performer. On Oahu, complete without the mention of at least besides the players mentioned above with a few of the men who have played the the 1913 combination, are Walter Mac- game there for a decade or more, and farlane,. a sterling member of the Oahu who are closely identified with its prog- team for the last three seasons, and Rob- ress. The team that made the polo pil- ert W. Shingle, whose enthusiasm and grimage to the Pacific Coast in 1913 was whose willingly-loaned mounts have done composed of Arthur Rice, No. 1 ; Har- much to keep the game going. old K. Castle, No. 2; Walter Dillingham It would be impossible to mention by (Capt.), No. 3, and Frank F. Baldwin, name all the service men who have had back. S. A. Baldwin was the fifth man, a hand in Hawaiian polo in the last half and, as matters turned out, played in as dozen years. They have been far more many games as his team mates, the Ha- numerous than the civilians, but their waii combination being constantly shift- stay and their participation in the game ed. At that time all but Frank Bald- has been limited by the exigencies of the win hailed from Oahu. He is captain military service. Suffice it to say that of the Maui team, and mainstay of polo the Fifth Cavalry, the Fourth Cavalry, on that Island. Other well known Maui and the First Field Artillery have, in .players are Arthur Collins, Harold Rice, recent years, contributed to sport and David Fleming, Caleb Burns, and Ed- sportsmanship in a way that is thorough- ward Baldwin, the young son of Mr. F. ly appreciated by all polo lovers in the F. Baldwin, who shows early promise Hawaiian Islands.

At Moanalua. 258 THE MID-PACIFIC Seoul, Korea. Near the Railroad Station.

The New Korea

By COUNT TERAUCHI, Governor-General of Chosen

HE new administrative system of a most lamentable event—the death of the Imperial Government in Korea His Majesty, Emperor Meiji, during Tor Chosen was inaugurated with whose gracious reign the Peninsula of the establishment of the Government- Korea was brought under an enlightened General of Chosen by readjusting the administration. The Imperial mourning complicated administrative organs existing was shared with profound sorrow, not prior to the annexation of Korea by Ja- only by all Japanese subjects and most of pan. Yet taking into account the ex- the civilized nations, but also by all perience gained since the annexation, the classes of the newly annexed territory— organs of the Government-General, cre- the royal family of Prince Li, the peer- ated rather to suit the conditions of the age, the old Yangban class and the people transitory period, were readjusted in or- in general. They faithfully observed the der to secure more reforms and improve- Imperial mourning throughout the whole ments in the administration, central and year equally with loyal Japanese. local. The year 1912 was marked by With regard to the administrative re-

259 260 THE MID-PACIFIC adjustment, the central offices of the der gradually gaining hold even in the Government-General and its law courts remotest interior, most of the insurgent were united or amalgamated as far as or brigand bands have been suppressed, practicable by simplifying the administra- except small parties of fugitive brigands. tive process in order to curtail expendi- in the mountain fastnesses of Kolai and ture, while not failing to secure greater Kogen provinces which indulge in desul- efficiency in avoiding "red-tape adminis- tory attacks upon inoffensive people. Con- tration." With the money saved by such sequently, many small detachments of the administrative readjustment, the local ad- garrison army hitherto distributed in ministration was expanded by appointing scattered places have been concentrated in more officials, especially technical experts central stations, except those distributed and assistant experts, to provincial gov- along the northern borders where peace ernments in order to encourage agricul- and order are occasionaly threatened by tural and industrial development in the fugitive insurgents fleeing to Chientao in various localities. The results were that North China or to Asiatic Russia. Now, various undertakings, conducted with the too, the police are better able to parti- interest obtained from the "Imperial Do- cipate in the carrying out of various ad- nation Funds" and the revenues collected ministrative measures in addition to the for local needs, stimulated the improve- maintenance of peace and order. Thus ment of agriculture and the industries of peace and order being more firmly es- the people generally, so that the annual tablished, not only are the lives and prop- production of the Peninsula and the erty of the people more securely protec- amount of money deposited in the postal ted, but travelers can now visit even re- savings banks, showed an upward trend. mote districts without any police escort The judicial system, which consisted of whatever, which was all but impossible in four classes of law courts, was reduced former times. It is a matter for extreme to three classes by amalgamating district regret, however, that a conspiracy of a courts or first courts with local courts, horrible nature was formed against the and, as a general principle, hearings in life of Count Terauchi, the Governor- local courts were to be conducted by a General of Chosen, to take effect in the single judge, a collegiate hearing in first year 1911, and that Baron Yun Chilo, a instances being limited to special cases gentleman of high birth, who had not of an important nature, so that the more only received his higher education in speedy and effective administration of Japan and America, but at one time justice could be secured. Simultaneously served in high positions under his own with judicial readjustment, several regu- government, was one of the conspirators. lations concerning civil and criminal cases, Proceedings against these conspirators real estate registration and real estate were begun in 1912 and continued well certification, came into force in order to into the following year. As a majority maintain uniformity in applying laws and of the accused happened to be Christian regulations to Japanese and Koreans alike. converts, a certain class of people jumped Now the Koreans are enjoying not only to the conclusion that the Japanese au- the benefit of the modern Japanese laws thorities were "persecuting" Christians but also that derived from taking into and trying to "crush" Christianity ' in account Korean usage, since the law Chosen. As a matter of fact, religious courts are enjoined to consider such in freedom is guaranteed by the Japanese giving judgment. constitution, and it has been repeatedly The organs maintaining peace and or- announced by the Resident-General and THE MID-PACIFIC 261

A Korean Marriage Procession.

Governor-General that due protection At the end of 1912 the newspapers pub- will be given at all times to the legiti- lished in the Peninsula numbered twenty- mate propagation of religion, whether of five in all, of which twenty-two printed Christianity, Buddhism or any other. in the Japanese language and one in the What the law courts and police officers English language were published by Jap- did in the conspiracy case was to treat anese proprietors, the remaining two be- those violating the law in accordance with ing published respectively in the Korean the law, without taking into the least and Chinese languages by Koreans. These account whether they were Christian or newspapers generally fulfil their proper non-Christian. functions, but some of them often indulge Newspapers published by Koreans or in reckless articles leading to misunder- foreigners in Korea, or by Koreans in standing by, or arousing the ill-feeling of, foreign countries, were formerly super- the newly annexed subects, or in careless vised or controlled in accordance with the writings affecting public morals. To such, provisions of the press law promulgated official warning is promptly given. Those by the ex-Korean Government. On the not observing such warning are suspended, other hand, the newspapers published by or the sale of their paper is prohibited, Japanese in Korea, or published in Japan in accordance with the provisions of the and dispatched to the Peninsula, were sub- libel law or regulations. jected to the control of the press regu- There are several newspapers published lations promulgated by the late Resident by Koreans resident in San Francisco, General. After the annexation, these Honolulu and Vladivostok, and sent to regulations were adopted by the Govern- the Peninsula. These newspapers still ment-General, they being still necessary continue to print seditious matter. The for the maintenance of peace and order. contents of newspapers published in Japan, 262 THE MID-PACIFIC though not affecting the public peace in parents are situated in the place pointed Japan itself, often seriously disturb the out by the so-called grave geomancer. A peace and order in the Peninsula. Such Korean will often locate his family burial are also treated according to the law ground on land already occupied by that The regulations controlling dealers in of another person, if such site be selected second-hand goods, transactions in which by a grave geomancer, thus desecrating it are often of a criminal nature or are for the sake of his own family. The concerned with articles injurious to the result is that there are many disputes con- public health, applied only to Japanese, cerning graves among the civil cases in- since they were enacted by the administra- stituted by Koreans, as well as the com- tive decrees of former Japanese consuls mission of many penal offenses relating or residents, and Korean dealers were not to encroachment upon public lands caused affected by these regulations. The num- by the desire to locate a faimly grave in ber of Japanese inhabitants increasing con- a propitious spot. siderably of late and the exchange or pur- Graves being thus indiscriminately scat- chase of second-hand goods by Koreans be- tered around villages or towns, not only coming more and more common, the regu- is the public health affected, but produc- lations concerning the control of dealers tive utilization of lands is hindered. Con- in second-hand goods in force in Japan sequently, regulations for control of graves were also extended to the Peninsula. and crematoriums were promulgated in Supervision of theatrical performances June, 1912, by the Governor-General's and cinematograph shows being deemed administrative decree, by which graveyards necessary, each performance must be re- and crematoriums are to be maintained in ported to the police and permission ob- specified quarters only and by public co- tained for its representation, and in the operation, except in special cases, and the case of a theatrical play, a copy of it burial or cremation of the dead in places must be submitted. Any performance other than the specified graveyards or cre- likely to prove injurious to public peace matoriums is prohibited. These regulations or good morals being prohibited, patrons are to be enforced at different times in of such are guarded against indecent or different places as soon as such grave- violent temptations as far as possible. yards or crematoriums have been prepared The measures for the control of improper in any one locality. Koreans have a great undertakings, such as low-class restau- abhorrence of cremation, inherited from rants or cafes in the neighborhood of de- ancient times, so that even those dying cent streets in cities or towns, which often from an epidemic or contagious disease were secretly conducted as brothels with are invariably buried in the ground. Now the aid of their waitresses or certain of that cremation is being encouraged, such their inmates, being strictly carried out an evil custom will no doubt soon he since the year of annexation, and the en- eradicated. forced removal of such restaurants to a The official extortion practised for so licensed quarter being effected, the public many years under the old regime discour- health and morals are pretty well main- aged the people from adopting respectable tained in cities, open ports and towns. occupations, but encouraged them to in- Koreans hold their graves in the great- dulge in gambling. Although the Korean est respect and surrender their land for criminal law provided for the punish- such usage in a most lavish manner, be- ment of those addicted to gambling, or the lieving that their descendants will never keeping of houses giving accommodation be prosperous unless the graves of their for that purpose, and the buying and sell- THE MID-PACIFIC 263 ing of lottery tickets, still gambling dur- der the auspices of the Oriental Develop- ing the first fifteen days of the new year, ment Company a tourist party has been on the 15th of August, the summer festi- sent to Japan once a year, generally at the val, and on market days in country towns, opening season of a national exhibition or was tacitly permitted. With the growth some industrial competitive exhibition. of the police force, the punishment for Technical experts are often attached to gambling was strictly enforced and the these tourist parties in order to assist the practice became less popular. Especially members to comprehend technical terms are the physical works carried out under employed. In the year 1912, several tour- the new regime and the encouragement i3t parties to Japan were undertaken by given to the saving of money, instrumental local governments and people's bank asso- in gradually sweeping away the practice of ciations. gambling. These trips to Japan stimulated the in- Koreans themselves are bing aroused to terest of the Koreans in modern civiliza- the necessity of developing their own pos- tion, especially in agricultural and indus- sibilities. With the view to investigating trial development. They are also begin- or studying the advanced system of agri- ning to take interest in a general way. culture or industry and of education in Tourist parties organized in country dis- Japan, tourist parties are often formed by tricts often visit Keijo, the metropolis of Koreans. The first tourist party thus or- the Peninsula, and its vicinity, since the ganized, chiefly from among high officials principal government buildings, army bar- of the departments of Finance and Home racks, schools, hospitals, model industrial Affairs of the ex-Korean Goveivment, vis- stations, etc., are located in them. ited Japan in 1909. The next, consisting of one hundred officials and private indi- Summed up, the new Korea is beginning viduals, was formed and conducted by the the new regime , and the encouragement Keijo-Nippo, a Japanese newspaper pub- to keep step with western lands in the lished in Keijo (Seoul). Since 1909, un- march of civilization and progress.

Cozy Native Dwellings. 26 "['HE MID-PACIFIC

There are upwards of 2,000 pagodas in China, each a monument of an- tiquity, and many are going to destruction through neglect. This is the "Middle River" pagoda on the Yangtse Kiang River at Wuhu, and it is such towers as this that the China Monuments Society would preserve. Colossal Chinese Sculpture.

China's Ancient Wonders And the work of preserving the beauties of sculpture, building, and of nature known to world-famed Cathay.

By FREDERICK MCCORMICK. Author of The Tragedy of Russia in Pacific Asia; The Flowery Republic; China's Monuments, Etc. Secretary China Monuments Society. •

The feeling aroused by war's destruc- of Chile, are records of the migration tion of antiquities in Europe shows the of man from southern Asia by the islands increasing reverence in the world for the of Oceania across the Pacific to Mexico, creative work of past ages and genera- Central America and Peru. The theory tions, and has stimulated the spirit of generally held is that men reached the conservation of monuments all over the American continents from southern Asia world. by way of what is now French China, All enlightened men and women today China proper, Manchuria, and East Si- have an interest in China's great career beria, crossing the Bering Strait and the reaching through more than thirty cen- islands enclosing the Bering Sea to turies unbroken, together with the price- North America. The Indians of Califor- less records of man in his development nia are sometimes spoken of as Asiatics. in East Asia and his expansion, as an- In any case the regions of this supposed thropologists believe, eastward to the pilgrimage, especially China contain a American continents. store of archeological wealth greater per- In 1912 archeologists advanced the theory haps than exists anywhere else in the that heroic stone images seen on Easter world. Island, about 2000 miles off the coast China has eighteen immense provinces

265 266 THE MID-PACIFIC which have been the seat of civilization seus of Western countries, over Chinese since before the days of Abraham, to say porcelain, ten years ago was extended to nothing of colonial regions h. Central Chinese painting. So that artists famous Asia where it is supposed ultimately are among the Chinese for more than a thou- to be found the oldest records of man. sand years have become familiar in art China has more than twenty ancient circles of Europe and America. Lately capitals,, the indentities of which are very this acclaim has come down to China's well determined, and which are the re- sculptors. Yet while the art world now positories of archeoWeical relics some- rings with the names of painters like what as are Rome, Athens, and the other Pien Luan, Li Lung-mien, Yen Li-pen, ancient sites of Western civilization, and Wu Tao-tzu and others, not a solitary far better preserved and defined, and far name of any Chinese sculptor is known. richer, than sites like Karnak, Babylon, The painters, and even the identity of Ninevah, etc. bronze casters, and porcelain makers are The questions have been asked, What known—but the the sculptors of China are the monuments of China, and what are unidentified. Their work is one of are the reasons calling for their protec- the most forcible testimonials in human tion ? The first is answered by the his- history of the power of the mute and toric fact that the Chinese are the larg- anonymous. Chinese sculpture has never est single national body of human be- been surpassed, in any age, by any peo- ings, and they constitute the greatest of ple, and their is no evidence in Mun- all histories of human society. Having dane art that it ever will be. There is remained in one place on the earth they a single fragment in the Metropolitan have strewn it with relics of their his- Museum in New York—a stone head of tory, and therefore that place must be the Tang period—whose grandeur of one of the most precious of the reposi- plastic mastery since its appearance has tories of the records of man. conferred distinction upon the sculpture The monuments of China are among of the world, while by the appreciation the most conspicuous in the world. of China's monuments extended through- Broadly interpreted they range from a out civilized lands during the last eight coin or an oracle-bone to the Great Wall. years, the sculptors of China have been Shantung has perhaps the holiest relic ushered into the pantheon of the immor- in China, the Tomb and shrine of Confu- tal. cius who molded the civilization of all The importance of protection of the of East Asia. Shensi shelters the tombs monuments of China therefore is ob- of Lao-tzu, the philosopher whom Con- vious. The question as to what are the fucius respected as his elder, together reasons calling for this protection is an- with the tomb of Ching Shih Hwang Ti swered by an inquiry into the Western the originator of the Great Wall. collecting system and the archives of China has more than two thousand im- Western museums. portant specimens of the pagoda, an original Some European museums were large- form of tower-architecture unsurpassed ly founded with plunder taken from the for beauty by any similar kind of struc- vanquished—the spoils of military vic- ture. The Porcelain Tower at Nanking tors. The Western museum system of deserved to be ranked with the wonders today is largely due to municipal vanity of the world, and for reasons which and pride, and this vanity and pride and made it the superior of the so-called the strife for cheap culture is exploited seven wonders. by vandals and dealers. This will serve The rapture of the critics and connois- to suggest the process by which the THE MID-PACIFIC 267 monuments of the history of the Chinese Christians. Yunnan has a temple to the people have come to be, and are being, ruler of the North Pole. The humble plundered, and the Chinese almost un- as well as the steadfast are recognized consciously, robbed and despoiled. in triumphal arches over the whole of The vandals who have been and are China. The bean-curd seller of Sze- doing this work are many of them so chuan is canonized and immortalized by high-placed and powerful that they have a monument. In Kuangtung the builder not hesitated to ask the question : Why of a bridge is defied in accordance with spare China ? The answer seems to be : ideas which, if applied in this country, We have had enough. Let us spare this would see temples to Roebling at each last ancient civilization of the long line end of the Brooklyn Bridge where pas- which Western civilization has plunder-. sersby generally would pause on their ed. Other civilization and other coun- way to their tasks to burn a taper to his tries ought to stop in disgust and for the spirit. It has often been said that China sake of self-respect. Future men of shows no reverence for the sacred past, Europe, Anierican and Japan, who and that she hurries on her monuments should be in advance of present and to dissolution. The dilapidation of monu- past society should not be saddled with ments in China is the work often of the disgraceful plunder which they will be elements alone and as they show the obliged to disgorge, and can never prop- struggle with those elements often be- erly restore, even though they disgorge. come more sacred to the Chinese. China They will never be able to undo the is herself a monument to respect for an- crimes connected with it, nor replace the cient things. Her natural bias in this lost and broken. particular has been her greatest weakness China has built some of her most beau- and enemy. In her own way she re- tiful works in the name of reverence and verses her monuments and is learning to the belief in better things. The mem- restore them especially as she has learn- orial shrine to Shang Ti, the God of ed their monetary value as attractions Heaven, is now represented in the Altar to the tourist. of Heaven at Peking, perhaps the most In most of the centers of authority beautiful and impressive shrine the Chi- and learning in China are sanctuaries for nese have ever built to Shang Ti. It is the preservation of antiquities that are one of China's most notable monuments, movable. The most notable museum of and perhaps one of the most impressive this kind is at Hsian-fu in Shensi and man-made places in the world. The Al- is called the Pei-lin, or "Forest of Tab- tar is of white marble, circular, perhaps lets." It was to this place that the gov- 200 feet in diameter, and constructed ernor of Shensi. 1908, carried the Nes- in its details with reference to the plan torian tablet to prevent threatened de- of the Universe. It stands amid ancient predations by a foreign vandal, and there and solemn junipers which, according to it remains, safe from foreign pillage, the Chinese, are the most stately and honored by the yet more ancient com- dignified objects of the vegetable king- pany it keeps. The catalogue of inscrip- dom. tions from the Pei-lin tablets, compiled The devotional instinct of the Chinese by Chien Ta-hin closes with the end of have expressed themselves in monuments the Yuan dynasty, 1368 A. D. to virtue in all its forms, and to elders, The Nestorian tablet is the most in- teachers and leaders, as well as deity. teresting tablet in China to Christian Kiangsu has two temples to Adam and sects. It is dated 781 A. D. and in 200 Eve which are a relic of the Nestorian characters, only one of which is illegi- 268 THE MID-PACIFIC ble, gives a record of the earliest known nese architectural work which I have Christian mission in China. At Chu Yun mentioned, there are in China an un- Kwan in the Nankou Pass the traveler known number of stately palaces, bridges, is struck with the inscription over the monasteries, temples and other ancient gateway; "First Gate of the World buildings whose history is not known, (China)." But within the gate are tab- and what is believed will prove an in- lets bearing inscriptions in seven langu- credible number of inscribed stones ages, some of which are long since dead. whose records when assembled and de- The Stone Drums of Peking, however, ciphered will be the whole basis of Chi- are perhas the most remarkable of nese history, as one day it must be more China's caligraphic monuments. They are rightly written. The imperial tombs of preserved there in the Confucian Temple Manchuria, Chilhi, Shantung, Honan, where they stand as a memorial of the Shensi, Anhui, and other provinces, the hunting exploits of King Hsuan, 827 palaces of Chilhi, Shensi and Manchuria, B. C. and the great shrines of Shantung, Gi- Among the weird monuments of past angsu, Shansi, Szecuan and elsewhere, ages in China are the buried cities of generally are monuments of Chinese civi- Chinese Turkestan which have yielded lization to be guarded and kept for the manuscripts of the 2nd century and in- use and benefit of the Chinese people and scribed bricks of the 7th century, and for the promotion of toleration, respect dismantled and abandoned cities else- and friendly intercourse among nations where which never have been explored. and civilizations. Unless nations will per- Paintings and books have been found, mit each other their own garments and and from Kansuh in 1908 a complete the intimate possessions that give them library of the 10th century was taken pride, the society of those who are un- from a sealed cave where it had not been fortunate enough to be plundered of the disturbed since 1035 A. D. same will break down. To prevent such Not all the monuments of China are a fate in China is one of the reasons known. The vandals have done a good for the movement for the exploration, deal of the exploring in China proper, protection and study of her monuments. but as secrecy is an asset in their enter- One of the evidences of the priceless prises, the extent of discoveries like the character of China's art works and an- extent of monumental riches can only tiquities, is the known existence in the be guessed. Sufficient is known to show Chinese character of something which that to accord with the principles of na- induces among all who know it a belie tive justice, vandalism in China should that Chinese society never can be wreck- be a capital crime. This is apparent ed. It is these matchless qualities which from the plunder and destruction make the Great Wall, in all the magni- wrought among the Wei dynasty remains ficence and wonder of its physical as- about Loyang in Western Honan, and at pects, the best monument to the Chinese the tomb of the originator of the Great race. A description of it will suggest Wall. The destruction wrought by some the scope of China's achievements in scientist explorers with expeditions, bear- many ways during past ages. ing credentials from their governments, Originated in the 3rd century, B. C., has been such that there are scientists the Great Wall of China is by far the who are forbidden by their governments most extensive and formidable single to re-enter China. structure ever devised by man. It has Aside from pagodas, and the Great never been surveyed but is believed to Wall, and some other specimens of Chi- have an extent of not less than of 1500 THE MID-PACIFIC 269

mile.. Built and garrisoned by Emperor of the most marvelous results of man's Shih to protect the peaceful inhabitants handiwork. of the plains from the hill barbarians When the Great Wall was last repair- of Tartary, it served its purposes for ages ed in the 15th century, it was at the hands and successfully defended the Chinese of the Mings and with the efforts of froin the Manchus up to 1644 when the 50,000 soldiers. The innumerable tablets Manchus passed it only through treach- and inscriptions which it bears, recording ery of one of the Chinese leaders. its construction and subsequent repair Although it is nearly five hundred would form a curious and instructive years since it has been repaired. for hun- history were they studied and recorded. dreds of miles this wall remains intact, It has never been satisfactorily answer- a well-preserved monument built of a ed how China massed the materials and brick or dressed granite shell filled with the labor and combined them upon the earth, and covered with an impervous mountain tops so as to produce this paving of brick laid in lime, carefully great and imperishable monument. But drained. It is defended by a crenolated in the course of time this, and many parapet connecting fortress towers which unaswered questions respecting the most stand as beacons on the highest points numerous, homogenous, compact, and persistent race and nation known to his- of the hills and mountains. To the be- tory will be answered, owing to the in- holder it seems almost animate, some- terest aroused during the past eight what like a great serpent coiled upon the years in the matter of the proper pre- mountain ridges. In all respects it is one servation of all China's monuments.

The Marble Bridge in the Winter Palace Grounds. 270 THE MID-PACIFIC Hawaii's Flower—Hibiscus

By ALONZO GARTLEY. (Photographs by Professor J. F. Rock, College of Hawaii.)

ISITORS to Hawaii and discrimi- sult in the production of a great many nating kamaainas almost without desirable flowers and an ultimate wide V exception agree that the hibiscus distribution and planting throughout the is the most satisfactory and perhaps most city. Such extensive plantings would add generally admired of all our flowering so much materially to the attractiveness shrubs. The soil and climatic conditions and beauty of our city that there is a pos- seem especially favorable to its growth, sibility of Honolulu being as well known and there seems to be an almost complete through its hibiscus as Japan is through immunity from disease. As a result it its cherry blossoms and chrysanthemums. has been widely used as an ornamental Five or ten 'acres of park area carefully garden shrub and hedge plant, but it has planted with thousands of varieties of not yet had the extensive planting its beautiful hibiscus and brought up to a beauty and its utility deserve. An edu- high state of cultivation, would be one cational campaign is necessary to focus ap- of the botanical wonders of the world. preciative attention upon perhaps the most Speaking of thousands is speaking advised- valuable asset of Honolulu Beautiful. ly, for, from the twenty or thirty varie- There is an enthusiastic group of men ties introduced and the native varieties, and women in Hawaii who have a full three or four years' production by cross- appreciation of this plant, and it is hoped pollination has increased the number to through them that such an educational over a thousand, and many of the new campaign may be promoted and furthered. varieties are vastly superior to the orig- An Hibiscus Club has already been inal parents. formed to promote a better knowledge The facility with which these flowers of the methods of growing hibiscus and can be cross-pollinated has resulted in producing new varieties, and it is to be most wonderful collections in many of the hoped that a large membership will re- gardens. Here indeed is a most satisfac-

271 272 THE MID-PACIFIC

tory and pleasurable outdoor fad, and one continuously propagated in the Hawaiian which has apparently limitless practical forests. These native varieties, together utility and scientific interest, for there is with some twenty or thirty varieties which no other plant which lends itself more have been introduced, have been the ma- readily to a study of heredity in plant terials which the local workers have em- life. ployed. The simplicity of the methods employed To produce seed a flower is pollinated is not generally known and the possibility by covering the stigmata on the end of of the results to be obtained not realized the stamen with pollen, either from the by the average garden worker, and I have same flower — when it is spoken of as be- therefore undertaken to illustrate some ing self-pollinated — or from another - of these methods and the results in such when it is spoken of as being cross-pol- a way that interest may be promoted and linated. Such plants as are reproduced the work furthered. without variation by self-pollinated seeds The hibiscus belongs to the mallow are called pure breeds. Those whose family, which includes the Hawaiian hau, self-pollinated seeds produce plants and the illima, the large group of mallows, the flowers showing variation from the orig- common vegetable okra, the cotton plant, inal self-pollinated plant and flower are and the roselle or hibiscus sabdariffa. hybrids, mixed-breeds or cross-breeds. It They are all well worth considering, as can be safely said that all of the Hawa- many of the flowers and plants are very iian varieties are pure breeds. Of the in- beautiful, and especially is this true of troduced varieties comparatively few pro- the Hawaiian variety known as Hibiscus duce seed, and these seeds seldom repro- Breckenridgei, which has a rich foliage duce these varieties true. They are there- and a large velvety yellow flower. The fore cross-bred flowers, the seeds from Chinese or Rose of Sinnensis varieties which will produce a wide variation in ordinarily grown in the gardens, of which the resulting progeny. There is no doubt the brilliant scarlet and pink flowering that hibiscus follow very closely the laws hedges are examples, are the ones which of heredity as laid down and developed from their hardiness and wealth of foli- by the Mendelian theory, and it is this age have attracted the most attention and fact which makes the hibiscus a valuable have been brought to the highest state of plant for the scientific worker. As every cultivation. It is from these varieties one knows, the colors, shapes, and sizes that the great number of new types have of the flowers are quite variable, and been produced. they are also single, semi-double, and It is not generally known that there arc double. With this material so rich in many indigenous varieties of single reds, variety it is possible to obtain an almost yellows, and whites on Oahu, Kauai, infinite number of new forms. The sin- Maui, Molokai, and Hawaii. These na- gle ones vary in color from pure white tive varieties are very handsome and some through the entire range of the spectrum obtain the size of trees, some being over down to dark red, with the exception of forty feet high, with trunks twelve inches blues and purples. The numbers of in diameter. The sight of such a tree doubles and their colors, however, are covered with thousands of fragrant flow- much more limited, the extreme limits of ers, each six or eight inches in diameter, the scale being pure canary yellow and with a stamen ten inches long, will linger the dark double red. in the memory forever. It is necessary for the worker to well The majority of these native varieties establish in his mind the unit character produce seed freely, and thus have been of the different flowers as to size, color,

THE MID-PACIFIC 273

The Cecilia Knudsen Variations in leaves

shape, texture, and whether single, double will also produce a limited number of or semi-double, and at all times during doubles. the breeding to carry in mind these unit It will be noted above that the crosses characters. The worker should previously resulting from doubles with doubles, and determine the characters which are de- doubles with singles, both produce sin- sired, and should conduct the breeding in gles. Should these resulting singles seed, such a way as to produce these characters or if the pollen of these singles is fertile if possible, not endeavoring, however, to upon other singles, a very limited number unite too many characters in a single of the resulting progeny may be double. flower. Say that a double flower is de- This seems remarkable, but if we recall sired : there are three ways of producing that the unit or gametic character of this and possibly four. Unfortunately we doubleness is possessed by these flowers, have but two double flowers which pro- the resulting doubles in the progeny of duce seed, and both of these are double these flowers may be explained. red, one being a small dark-red known as In regard to changing the form we the carnation hibiscus, the other a red nave a variety known as the coral, which flower, larger. Cross-pollinating a sin- resembles a delicate piece of pink coral. gle flower on either of these doubles The dark colors of the female parent should produce a limited number of have been retained, but both in the double doubles, but a much greater number of and the single crosses the resulting flowers single flowers. Cross-pollinating a double show a marked fringing of the edges of flower on either of these doubles will give the petals. It is therefore possible to ob- more satisfactory results, and a larger tain fringed flowers, both single and number of doubles will be produced, but double, through the medium of the coral a certain number of single flowers may flower. A single fringed white flower, be expected. Cross-pollinating a double resembling as nearly as possible the coral upon a single flower of a seeding variety in shape, is one of the future possibilities. 274 THE MID-PACIFIC and is being earnestly worked for. As to breeding for color, a great deal yet remains to be known. The majority of crosses between the whites and yellows and the whites and reds has resulted in pink flowers of all shades ; thus the re- sults show no resemblance to either par- ent, and it is almost beyond belief that a dark-red flower, when crossed on pure white should produce a shell pink, and a pure dark-yellow, when, crossed on pure white should entirely lose its yellow char- acter, resulting likewise in a shell-pink colored flower. Yet this is the case. The first generation cross resulting in a hybrid, and these flowers frequently do not re- produce seed. Either they cannot be fer- tilized themselves or their pollen is not fertile on other flowers. A few of these, however, do seed, and by self-pollinating these flowers the original colors, yellow and red, of the parents may be reproduced, Large scarlet hibiscus with seed pod and the size, texture, and shape probably greatly improved. These flowers can also black center. The flower is large in size be cross- pollinated with the pollen of an- and the foliage a rich, glossy green. It other flower possessing desirable charac- illustrates very characteristically both the ters, and thus almost any character de- foliage and the form of many of the hibis- sired may be separated out and bred into cus, and is given as an illustration of one a new flower. It is true of almost all of our superior varieties. It shows clearly heredity that the strong characters are the the stamen with the stigmata and the pol- ones which dominate in the resulting len. The pollen cells, however, have not cross, thus — a handsome flower upon a yet broken, and they frequently do not bush with poor foliage may be bred into break until late in the day. This flower an inferior flower on a bush with strong, also has characters which have been intro- rich foliage, and the character of a large duced into many other crosses, viz. : that flower and strong, rich foliage be the re- of remaining open for from two to three sult. The advanced workers are endeav- days, instead of shutting up on the eve- oring to produce a large, double white ning of the first day — and possesses a flower resembling in character the well- very delicate fragrance. Both of these known peach-blow, but without the color. characteristics were inherited from the This will probably be produced from a pure white parent. self-fertililzed single hybrid, resulting The majority of the leaves are of a from a cross between a pure single white rich green color; some are tipped and and a large double flower. veined with red and others are of a deep A very handsome cross-bred flower, re- bronze color. A few varieties possess de- sulting from a pure white single and a cided variegated leaves, and this varie- near-magenta single, known as the Cecilia gated character can readily be bred into Knudsen, has been produced on Kauai. other plants. The color is a delicate pink with almost Now, as to the general method of pro- THE MID-PACIFIC 275 cedure in cross-pollination : The flowers The worker can find no more fascinat- which produce seed in the majority of ing occupation than following the growth cases are susceptible to self-pellination. and ultimate fruiting of these plants. It is therefore necessary to remove all Many leaf variations will be evident from pollen from the stamen of the flower to the time the plant becomes large enough be worked upon, preferably before the pol- to show its leaves, and the budding and len cells break. The pollen from the opening of the bud gives much pleasurable flower to be used for fertilization is then expectation. There still remains the placed on the stigmata. Results are more pleasure of giving favorite flowers the certain when pollination is done in the names of favored ladies. morning. At the time of pollinating a All those who have already undertaken tag marked with the names of the parents the work are very enthusiastic, and, as has should be tied to the flower stem for ref- been mentioned above, there are no doubt erence. About six weeks should mature twelve or fifteen hundred varieties now the seed if fertilization has been complete, in Honolulu. Many of these will be re- and the resulting seed-pod will contain jected, and perhaps two or three hundred from one to seventy-five seeds. When of the most desirable ones retained. Fur- ripe these seeds should be picked and ther and continued crossing will produce planted in seed boxes, and about a month many more desirable varieties, and if the after sprouting each individual plant should be planted in a four-inch pot, and number of workers is increased and the transplanted from time to time into five, desirable kinds systematically collected ant six or eight-inch pots, and finally into the planted, many thousands should ultimately ground. result.

Results of cross-pollinating. 276 :. *:* :* •:* ,... :. :. .".+-', ,',..„- , • • , -",,-• ..., , . . :, .. .,.•,. •.::'. 4 ,,,+, . .. , ' ' , Sr• , '''''..4^, '' . - , •. - • ■ , 4. .. .. '• . '• , .I ,.... . 4 ''44;:t '4,"4. . :'' '' '7•:''''''4 4 ' :2;* THE MID-PACIFIC 4:44 ':' * '

4-' ' ::-, k. .,, ' .i, , ,.,,, ; .-, -1-,:::,,-,-,,, ''...,*7.7,-''N. ''..;.'''. 7.'-. '

. t . • . . ..",.... • ... • , - . . , ',.4,:,-: . ,E.-,'''' :".i.,,ix . ''•-. . -'.. .:'''',_`:4„,. , ,...PL ::- .ev.,,, :,,,-, ,,,,,,, ':.':: ''.—,.'' , 7 ..... ..$::,. S, ,-;''''.- "'„...... „,, ', :,.. :,..p.:2,4;,H.,•:, ;, .,,,,,,..' - „,,,,, --,J•! ,:,,,, e ''. , '--:' ,,,,,,,., . .,...i.,. x -. :!,! ...... 1* -.- . . ,,,,,,, , ,- ,...... ,... ,,,,...... „:„. .,..•:. '44.1 •'w • 1 . ...-- -''-,. .-- • ' _ ...... ,..... _...... ,. .., .,... :.... i...... :- ' .

in many Pp ar ts of t he Philipp ''nes the carabozz considered man's best most usefu l frd;riend 1,• no other than this cloven-hoofe d animal can p ack his isloa d t hroughde ep mud day aaf ter day and keep his health.

• • ne CaraIco Car:

Transportation in the Philippines

By 0. GARFIELD JONES

NTHINKING people sneer at cer- kind of surface over which the carry- tain methods of transportation ing must be done. U as being "out of date." The Suppose that during the wet season chauffeur grins at the cochero as the a certain farmer has a quantity of auto shoots past the slow-moving car- rice in the center of a rice paddy coun- romata. A half hour later the cochero try that is devoid of roads. The only returns the grin as his sturdy little way to get that rice to market is to put pony passes the stranded auto with the it on the back of a cargador, on the sweating, swearing chauffeur flat on back of a carabao, or in a carabao sled. his back under the machine. The co- Nothing but a cloven-hoofed animal can chero puts on a superior smile as he pack a load through deep mud day overtakes the carabao and sled, but after day and keep in health. Man when he reaches the bad road a little himself cannot do it; the suction on farther on he loses the superior atti- his feet is too great. If the cargador tude and waits meekly for the carabao can compete with the carabao under and sled to haul him through the mud. these circumstances, it is because the There are four factors in every trans- cargador can pick his way and avoid portation problem, and the determina- the worst places. In the United Staten tion of what is and what is not "up-to- where horses and automobiles are every- date transportation" must always de- where, there are still some communi- pend upon these four! factors taken ties where oxen must be used in the together. The first is the kind of goods wet season for heavy pulling, such as to be transported, the second is the logging over mud roads. The cloven- amount of goods to be transported, the hoofed draft animal will not soon dis- third is the distance that the goods appear in a rice country having a hun- must be carried, and the fourth is the dred inches of rainfall.

277 278 THE MID-PACIFIC

The cargador is a primitive means of began to be felt in Europe, in spite transportation that is not now and of the fact that the American farmers probably never will be out of date. If had just harvested the biggest wheat a man in New York City wants to send crop in their history. The railroads of a trunk to a barrio in Benguet, the Europe were running the same as ever, steamship will carry it most of the dis- and so were the railroads in America. tance, the railroad will take it a part Only one link, that of ocean transpor- of the way, the auto truck and the tation, had been broken; but that one caraboa cart may haul it a few miles, link was enough, because it severed the but the first and last steps in the jour- transportation chain that connects the ney will be on the shoulders of a carga- wheat fields of America with the food dor. With all the modern means of markets of Europe. transportation available in New York The Philippines are suffering from City, the only economic method of get- this war for the same reason. The Phil- ting a single trunk from a residence to ippine customs receipts have fallen off a cart or auto truck is for a man to very seriously, not because the Fili• carry it on his back. pinos have stopped buying European The farmers of Jaro in Leyte Prov- goods, but because Europeans have ince used to pay Pesos 23 to have four stopped sending goods here to sell. piculs of hemp hauled by carabao cart They have no ships that they can use to Carigara and four piculs of rice for shipping their goods here. If the hauled back to Jaro. A first-class war continues long enough, the neutral* road was built connecting these two countries like the United States, Spain, towns in 1912. Now a carabao cart and Latin America will buy or build makes the round trip for P. 3, carrying ships sufficient to reorganize the ocean ten piculs each way. With the poor transportation and thus permit the in- road the cost of hauling was practically ternational transportation chain to be P. 3 per picul. The good road has re- connected up again. duced the cost to 15 centavos a picul, Perhaps the best example of well- a reduction of 95 per cent. organized transportation is the Post A community might have every va Office Department of the Government. riety of transportation and still not It uses cargadors, carabaos, horses, have cheap freight rates, because of carts, wagons, auto trucks, barotos, the various methods not being proper- sailboats, launches, and ships. For 24 ly organized. The proper handling of centavos it will carry a kilo of cloth to a corn crop, for instance, requires, New York City ; for 4 centavos it will first of all, men to harvest the corn,, carry a personal letter to New Orleans; and wagons and horses to haul it to for P1.50 it will guarantee the safe de- the big granaries in the nearby town. livery of the P200 you wish to send The present European war has brought to your friends in Chicago. Because out very forcibly the evil results of a of the great quantity of freight break in the transportation organiza- handled, it can carry economically al- tion. As soon as war broke out, Ger- most any quantity. The Post Office man cruisers went out to capture Eng- Department does not sneer at the car- lish and French merchant ships, and abao or baroto. It knows that there English cruisers went out to capture are places where the carabao is the German ships. As a result the mer- fastest and the baroto the safest method chant ships were afraid to leave port. of carrying things. With this under- Immediately the scarcity of foodstuffs standing of transportation methods and THE MID-PACIFIC 279

organization, we are in a position to this is the one that has a square or study the various means of transpOrta- rectangular bed fastened onto the long tion employed in the Philippine Islands. poles and then two short poles slant- The cargador is perhaps the most ing from the rear end of the bed as the primitive method of transportation. rear runners. An interesting modifica- Man certainly carried goods himself tion of this sled is the one used for before he learned to employ animals fording deep streams. The four poles to carry them for him. Cargadors car- that serve as runners are from 3 to 6 ry things differently in different coun- feet long, thus putting the bed of the tries. The American or European car- sled some 3 or 4 feet off the ground. ries his packages in his hands or arms; The most common sled is the one with if he is a hunter or peddler, he may two horizontal runners. This sled is carry his pack on his back. The Ori- usually some 5 or 6 feet long with run- ental cargador usually carries his load ners from 2 to 4 inches wide. The in two bundles—one at either end of a American mud boat, a sled with a very balancing pole that teeters on his shoul- wide and very long runners, is not der. There can be no doubt that this used in the Philippines. Oriental method is the most efficient Sleds are the only satisfactory trans- where the carrying is for any distance portation for mud roads and fields. and the road is passable. The varia- Furthermore, for very soft ground the tions of cargador transportation, such carabao is the only satisfactory animal as the sedan chair, the hammock, or the to pull the sled. The trouble with sleds holding basket involve no new princi- is that the friction is so great on a ple of transportation and therefore hard road that they are not economical. need not be discussed here. They require mud as a lubricant. The The pack animal is another primi- road authorities obect to sleds because tive method of carrying. This method the farmers are always crossing the is in common use in certain parts of roads with them to get from the field the Philippines, especially in the Moun- on one side to the field on the other, tain Province and in Agusan. Pack and in so doing the front ends of the animals have the advantage of being sled runners tear the shoulder away adaptable to every kind of surface. from the road. Where many sleds A pack horse or carabao can follow a have to cross the road, the caminero narrow trail, ford a stream, plunge builds a special roadway from the road through a mud hole, or travel over a to the field on either side so that no first-class road without injury to the damage will be done by the passing .surfacing. The disadvantage is that sleds. the animal cannot carry half the load Carts are the simplest type of road on its back that it can pull in a sled on vehicle. They are of two kinds, viz., n mud road or in a cart on a good road. those with rigid axle and those with In short, packing does not secure the free axle The rigid axle type have maximum use of the transporting power nothing in their favor except cheapness of the animal. of construction, because the rigid axle There are many kinds of sleds in compels one wheel to slide at every the Philippines. The most primitive turn of direction of the cart and thus one consists of two poles with a cross- the iron tire tears and grinds the stone piece, the trailing ends of the two poles surface of the road. This type of cart serving as runners. It was common is prohibited by law and by public among the American Indians under the opinion. name of travoix. An improvement on The free-axle carts are divided into 280 THE MID-PACIFIC the wide and the narrow tire classes, a day there are 355 auto trucks, 1,933 wide tire being one 3 inches or more automobiles, and 818 motorcycles. in width. The narrow tires are pro- About half of these motor vehicles are hibited on first-class roads and should outside of Manila. The rapid growth be prohibited on all roads, because the of the auto-truck lines in the provinces softer the road the more they cut it. is proof that there is a great demand Like the rigid-axle cart, the narrow for this kind of transportation which tire cart has no advantage except its serves as a connecting link between smaller original cost. the municipal transportation system of Wagons are not used very much in cargadors, pack animals, sleds, and the Philippines. Wagons require good carts and the inter-island system which roads and are more expensive. They consists of ships. Railroads serve as are more convenient than carts and are this connecting link in some places, but easier on the roads, because the load is railroads are so expensive in construc- distributed on four instead of on two tion and maintenance that they are wheels, and they grind the road less economical only when the amount of on turning than a two-wheeled cart. freight to be transported is very large. Wagons, and particularly auto The geographical formation of the trucks, should be encouraged in the Philippines, which consists of a large Philippines, not that they may replace number of small valleys separated by the carabao, but rather that the cara- high mountains, makes the use of rail- bao may be relieved of road transpor- roads absolutely impracticable except tation in order to be free to do the sled in a few places like central Luzon and hauling, the plowing, and other draft central Panay. work in the mud for which the carabao One great advantage of a road over is especially fitted. For these opera- a railroad is that it is more democratic. tions there is such a scarcity of animals Railroads in the United States have at present as to hold back the agri- made and unmade cities by arbitrarily cultural development of these Islands. lowering and raising freight rates. In A rough estimate made by the Bureau the case of a public road, the farmer of Public Works in 1909 gives a total can have his grain hauled by the auto- of 76,000 sleds, 22,000 narrow-tired truck companies if their rates are low, carts, 14,000 rigid-axle carts, and 30,000 but if they raise their rates in order wide-tired carts. For several years to double their profits, the farmer can the Government offered special induce. buy, rent, or borrow carts and haul his ments to those who would use wide- own grain to market. tire carts, and the wheelwrighting de- Transportation from Ibajay in Capiz partment of Bilibid Prison used to Province is by water. Two companies make large numbers of wide-tired buy copra there and about twice a year wheels for the provinces every year. a ship stops off-shore to get this cargo. At present the number of blacksmith- As no other boats stop there, the Iba- ing and wheelwrighting shops have in- ay farmers must sell their copra at the creased so much in the provinces that prices offered by these two concerns relatively few orders are now sent to that have occasional transportation. Bilibid Prison for these wheels, al- Calivo is farther from Manila than Iba- though the number being used in the jay, but Calivo has a good port and has provinces is increasing every day. available transportation to Manila al- In 1909 there were very few autos most every ten days. When the semi- =Ind auto trucks in the Philippines; to- annual boat is due to stop at Ibajay THE MID-PACIFIC 281

the copra buyers pay as much for copra to the procession. There are approx- as do the buyers in Calivo. imately 2,234 kilometers of first-class The building of good roads and the and 2,025 kilometers of second-class increase of carabao and auto-truck roads in the Philippines, all under care transportation will not only decrease of the Insular Government. the cost of hauling to the seashore, but In the industrial work of the Bureau also it will dedrease the cost of the of Education this problem of transpor- water transportation. As late as 1908, tation has not been ignored. School- the inter-island transportation system made baskets, for instance, have been consisted of a number of small steam- designed so as to pack into the mini- ships that made many stops on each mum of space. This result is achieved trip out from Manila. by making the various baskets so that The necessity for low grades, good they will nest or telescope into each bridges, and good surface all the way ether, or fit flat against each other. on a road is just as great as the need This care in designing not only de- for the road itself. Just as a chain is creases the cost of transportation by no stronger than its weakest link, just decreasing the bulk of the articles so is a road no better than its worst shipped, but also it decreases the prob- mudhole, highest hill, or weakest ability of breaking in shipping. bridge, so far as freight traffic is con The great need of Philippine trans- cerned. In loading a carabao cart for portation is organization—not organi- a trip from town A to town B, the ation by one individual or one com- thing that determines the size of the pany in the control of all, but a nat- load to be hauled is not the amount ural organization that works itself out that the carabao can pull on the best by the common-sense adaptation of the part of the road, but rather the amount means available to the needs of each the carabao can pull over the steepest community by itself, and to the needs hill or through the worst mudhole on of the Archipelago as a whole. There the trip. is no best method of transportation. There are at least a dozen roads in There is only a best method for a given the Philippines traversed by more than road and a given load. The transpor- 1,000 vehicles a day. One big wash- tation system will have been organized out, one bad mudhole, one broken when each method finds its place of bridge, one large landslide will stop maximum efficiency in the system. every one of these thousand or more Just as it is necessary that we de- vehicles. It is a situation like this that elop respect for manual labor, because makes the road foreman and the humble most of the work in the Philippines caminero feel the responsibility of their must be done by manual labor, just so position. Maintenance is just as im- must we develop respect for the sturdy portant as construction in road work. cargador, the plodding carabao, the One must think of transportation as a simple sled, and the humble caminero, continuous procession that goes on and because without these the rumbling on—as a procession that is formed by auto truck, the swift-going railroad individual men or animals that come train, and the capacious steamship out of forest, field, and barrio to join would have nothing to haul. The rail- the throng 4n the highway. Anything road train can never bring the hemp that impedes the progress of this pro- from the jungle on the mountain side, cession affects every forest, field, and and the auto truck can never carry the barrio that has contributed a member rice direct from the rice field. 282 THE MID-PACIFIC

•

New Zealand possesses one "Trunk" or main line railway. It traverses the north island from north to south, connecting the metropolis, Auckland, with the capital, Wellington, and in between are the mountains and the wonderful thermal wonderland of New Zealand. One of the bridges.

New Zealand's Main Railway

By R. FARNALL

•

N New Zealand the great artery builder's art that would be notable even of travel is the Main Trunk rail- in America or Switzerland. I way, connecting Auckland and A run over the Main Trunk Line, or Wellington Cities, 426 miles apart. This a large section of it, may be combined railway penetrates some very beautiful with a trip up or down, the Wanganui and wonderful scenery, and the railway River. Traveling south by rail from itself is a very remarkable piece of Auckland the first stop is at Mercer, work. New Zealand railway-building where the train-traveller on his way to is a task often involving great engineer- Rotorua, Wanganui, or Wellington, ing skill, and travel in these beautiful usually gets his first glimpse of the islands of mountain and forest frequ- Waikato River and Maori life. Along ently brings before the eye huge via- the Waikato rail line some interesting ducts and other triumphs of the road- places are passed, such as the Maori

283 284 THE MID-PACIFIC town of Waahi, opposite the coal town Waitomo. They are exceedingly won- of Huntly, and Ngaruawahia, a very derful and of great size. There are at beautiful township at the confluence of least a dozen spacious caverns or halls, the Waipa and Waikato Rivers. At connected by corridors and passages. Frankton Junction, near Hamilton, the The caves are very wide and lofty, and Rotorua rail-line diverges. Just beyond the stalactites and stalagmites seem Te Awamutu (100 miles from Auck- even more delicate and fairy-like than land) the Main Trunk traveller enters those of Waitomo. Some are just about the historic King Country, where 25 the thickness of a lead pencil; some, years ago the white man's law did not again, are many feet in thickness, and run. of great age. Some are pure white, Many freaks of Nature abound in others an exquisite creamy hue. the King Country in the form of sub- The entrance is an archway in the terranean streams, disappearing and rocks; thence the first corridor de- reappearing in unexpected places; nat- scends at a steep slant for some dis- ural rock bridges spanning river • tance. Somewhere in the recesses of gorges; and stalactite caves of great the great cave is a waterfall. The deep extent. booming sound of this hidden cataract The most wonderful and beautiful of is weird in the extreme. The Kahi- these limestone caves are the Waito katea Stream, a tributary of the Wait- um and Ruakuri Caverns, reached by omo, runs through the caves. a few hours' run from Auckland by Continuing the Main Trunk journey rail to Hangatiki, thence a short drive. beyond Taumarunui, the traveller The Government Tourist Department strikes the magnificent forest, which controls these caves, and there is an extends south and west across the Wai- accommodation-house for visitors at marino plateau to the base of Mount Waitomo, where guides may be ob- Raupehu. Picturesquely-set pioneer tained. townships are passed through—Piri- The Waitomo Caves, the most easily aka (a pretty Maori name that may be explored of these caverns, are lighted translated as the place "Where the with electricity. A river runs through Woodbine Twineth") Kakahi, Rau- the caves, a series of wide and lofty rimu, Makatote, Ohakune. The rail- stalacite chambers in the heart of a way runs for mile after mile through wooded hill. There are two entrances, a stately forest avenue. one by the river, where it merges from This Waimarino is probably the fin- the caves, the other through a rocky est rimu forest in existence, a broad portal high on the hillside in the midst belt of forest primeval. The barrel;; of a deep and fantastic thicket. Love- of the rimu here rise to a great height, ly beyond description are some of these their gracefully-drooping heads of glistening halls of the underworld as piney foliage, and the totara, tawa, and lit by the magnesium light or electric matai grow to a huge size. Bird-life lamp. Long snowy stalactites hang is prolific, wild-pigeons, tui, and kaka from the domed ceiling of glittering in particular. In the; midst of the white rock, and sparkle with innum- bush the line crosses some wonderfully erable beads of moisture. fine ravines and gulches, down which Finer still, in point of dimensions, as well as of variety of stalactite brawling creeks dash their way to the forms, are the Ruakuri Caves, about a Wanganui over boulder-beds overhung mile and a half up the valley from by the liveliest feathery ferns and the THE MID -PACIFIC Z85 tender drooping foliage of every tint .bridged by long and high and costly of green. To the railway engineers viaducts of steel. Emerging from the who had to construct this road these forest, there are views across the plains ravines were serious obstacles. The of the magnificent mountains of the Makatote and Manganui-a-te-oa and Tongariro National Park, and two other canyons, banked by precipitous hundred scenic miles by rail to Wel- and overhanging cliffs, had to be lington, the capital of New Zealand.

Scenes along the line. 286 THE MID-PACIFIC

Where the lava flow stopped in as form.

The lava still slowly forging ahead. el crater in the forming.

Following a Living Lava Flow

By L. W. DE VIS-NORTON

On the night of Sunday, 21st May, fling, but be most carefully avoided 1916, the greatest volcano in all the hurting anybody, and only in one in- world broke into violent eruption. stance did he really trespass on private If the little red gods who preside lands. The handkerchief waived vig- over the destinies of frail mortals, in- orously enough, in the shape of a col- clude the education of volcanoes in umn of steam and fume-cloud from the their regular round of duties, then, great summit crater, Mokuaweoweo, may it be said, they have accomplished about the end of 1914. Then ensued a magnificent work in Mauna Loa, that the usual pause ; on Friday, May 19th, vast bulk which occupies so much of there was another and unusual flicker the glorious tropic isle of Hawaii. of the handkerchief, this time from a Mauna Loa is a perfect gentleman: point far down on the southern flank ; he goes on the even tenor of his way followed the shrugging of the shoul- for about seven years, and then an- ders, a shrugging that caused the nounces, by waving a handkerchief needle-points of the seismological in- above his head, that he is going on the struments at the Kilauea Observatory rampage, but that he isn't quite sure to gallop about the record sheets like of the actual date. The handkerchief demented spiders soaked in ink. The ceases to wave, there is a pause of galloping continued all through the eighteen months or so, and then with next two days, and even we who were a preliminary shrug of his shoulders, in the district could feel the nervous the rampage is on. tension in the earth beneath our feet. The present little tantrum was quite At a quarter-past eleven, or there- as usual, but if anything a shade more abouts, on the Sunday night, there ap- polite. Manna Loa had to have his peared over that low point on the south

287 288 THE MID-PACIFIC

flank of the mountain, a tiny red tinge We had a pleasant walk of about a on the clouds overhead. It looked like mile through the grass burrs, but I the red tail-light of an auto, but was think the carvings must have been out seen before it was a minute old. In when we called, for we certainly did less than five minutes that red spot not find them. However, we got going was an angry glare that flooded the again, and as night fell, arrived at the heavens with blood. Ten minutes later Kahuku Ranch. And now the weather every detail on the mountain-side was cleared a little, for we had been driv. in plain relief, and, as someone re ing in wet sea-fog for the past hour or marked to me, it made the glow from so ; and away to our right the glare the great fire-pit of Kilauea look like broke through the mist in four vast less than thirty cents. Brighter and columns of whirling and incandescent ever brighter it grew, savage and aw- gas. There were ten miles away, over ful, in that it was full of awe, even a long succession of desolate country for us who were 50 miles away. When and savage a-a lava flows of an earlier Mauna Loa breaks loose and goes on date, and we saw at once that there the rampage, man is an atom, an in- was no earthly chance of getting to significant atom; a barnacle clinging the spot that night. In fact, we never to the side of a ship a second before got there at all, but that is another the torpedo strikes; a mere nothing. story. And yet Mauna Loa is the finest After a consultation with other hardy gentleman among all the volcanoes of adventurers who had reached the scene, the world. we decided to run on as far as possible Few of us. slept that night, and some in order to try and intercept the sec- started away for the scene in auto- ond flow. We were several times mobiles, honking wildly through the warned not to go too far, for fear of startled night as though they fled from a sudden spurt in what we now knew destruction rather than towards it., as the Kahuku flow, which might cut There were rumors next night that us off. We were told that the other, some fled just as fast in the opposite or Kona flow, was already across the direction, but where all was rumor and Government road on which we were wild conjecture who shall say where driving, and that we ran the gravest truth could be found? risk of being caught. However, we One could tell by following the path were enthusiastic, and probably ignor- of the brightest glow that there were ant of the reality of the danger, and so two distinct flows, running in opposite on we went. Our auto ate up the directions, but more than that we did miles at a terrific speed, and soon we not know. The wildest stories began were crossing what we thought would to come in over the wires, and one be the real danger zone, the great lava would have thought that half the world flows of 1887 and 1907. Here there was being engulfed in one terrific cata- was no sign of anything unusual save clysm. It was not until mid-day the that the glare in the sky seemed a bit next day that a party of six of us got more pronounced, and we plunged into away, intending to reach the scene by the forest road a few miles further on. daylight. There was plenty of smoke Finally, the aspect began to change about, but most of the region was hid- with such rapidity that we decided to den in clouds. We ran through to Wai- go as far as a place where we could ohinu, with a stop on the way to look turn the car around ready for instant at some ancient carvings near Naalehu. flight if necessary, and then to wait THE MID-PACIFIC 289

There are mountains on Hawaii more than 12,000 feet high, mountains of lava, and some- times they add another layer. calmly for as long as possible. This around us. The birds had fled in ter- was within a mile of Honomalino ranch ror, the forest creatures had slunk house, only we did not know that at away, and the only sounds were those the time. We came to a wider place of the falling trees and the terrible and turned the car, and then we waited. grinding as the inexorable torrent came Have you ever sat in an automobile, on its awful way down the mountain- feeling that within a very short dis side. I don't believe I was afraid, but tance of you there was probably a vast I know I smoked very hard and talked river• of molten stone careering wildly but little. Had I known what a lava toward you through a forest? If you flow was really like, and had I studied have not had the experience, try it at volcanoes, I should have had good rea- all costs next time Mauna Loa shrugs son to feel fear; it is only the ignorant his shoulders. One of our party van- who scoff. No man who ever went into ished at this point. I don't know how action for the first time would dare far he ran, or why he went, but I know say he was not in deadly fear until the he took the water canteen with him anticipation was over and he had real and left us without a word of explana- work to do. tion or apology. There are two-legged We waited and waited, and finally pigs even in 1916. the leader of our party decided to go We waited and waited in that in- back. It has occurred to me since, that fernal car for about two hours, with the rest of us agreed to his suggestion the weird sounds of that unnatural with suspicious alacrity; but be that might, and the ghastly lurid glare all as it may, we ran back in the auto 290 THE MID-PACIFIC to Kahuku Gate again, where we found When it came to a valley, it walked others wondering what had become of down one bank and up the other, us. It was 2 o'clock in the morning, straightened itself along the upper and we took it in turns to pretend to surface and came on at just the same sleep, but it was with relief we saw pace. There was no indecent hurry the great glowing gas columns over at all, but about it there was a savagery the ridges turn pale in the first day- of power which kept me dumb for an light, and it was with still greater re- hour and more. There were two dis- lief that we sat, an hour later, over a tinct movements, too, for with the for- huge breakfast in Waiohinu. For sheer ward, deadly, pushing motion there delight, I strongly recommend fried was a strange rolling movement. Great eggs during an eruption of a volcano. lumps of blackish coke would sudden- Breakfast over, we decided to have ly come to life and roll over. They did another try, and also to hunt for the not roll with any definite purpose, but missing member of our party. By noon just turned over like a man in bed. we had reached the Honomalino ranch No, not a bit like that either, for while again, and soon were making our way they were blackish on top, they were up through the dense forest on foot. red-hot on the Linder-side, and some- 13p and up we went, on a crazy trail times they would fall into the heap on which would perhaps be clear enough which they rested, and a huge, glow- to a native, but which we lost com- ing oven would be left for a few mo- pletely every time we looked up from ments. So with these two movements the ground. Whether we were head- the flow advanced: the foot of it would ing for the lava flow or not, we did creep forward with that horrible, slid- riot even know; but we figured it out ing steadiness; it would wrap itself that if we kept on up the mountain- round a tree, and creep up the trunk side we were bound to get somewhere. for about two feet. Then that tree And then a great tree crashed down would suddenly lean away from its just ahead of us; there was a sudden enemy, and next moment would crash burst of flame, and we had walked al- down on the ground, to burst instantly most onto the very foot of the lava flow into flame. I think it was the uncanni- without knowing it. ness of that leverage that got on my What was it like? Well, I will tell nerves: there was so little to account you. It was exactly like a great heap for it, and the two movements and the of coke stacked up in the midst of a leverage together were more than I tropical forest. At least it looked like could stand for long. I took some that at first, until the thing began to photographs, had a last look—and sev- dawn upon us. It was a heap of coke, eral more last looks—and then came indeed—but that heap was thirty feet away, leaving that great moving mass high, half a mile wide, and twenty-five to march on its stately way through miles in length ! And not only that, the forest. but it was moving, and it had moved It was not exactly an exciting ad- those twenty-five miles in little more venture, and others probably had a far than twenty-four hours. It was mov- more hazardous time. In fact, I have ing very slowly, but on this earth there heard stories of this very flow which was never anything else like that move- would have made my hair turn white— ment. The whole mass just pushed for- had I believed half of them. There ward steadily, just like—oh, there's were many that week who had gone nothing it can possibly be likened to. through blood-curdling adventures- THE MID-PACIFIC 291

(mite as terrible as that of the famous through his pranks, and now he has visitor from New York who was caught gone to sleep again for another seven in the fire-lake of Kilauea and com- years. pelled to jump from block to block of Therefore there is no need just yet lava floating on the fiery surface, and to look for the waving of the handker- so make his escape. It is excellent chief. journalism, but the temperature of that But, if you would see a sight which lake is somewhere around two thousand for impressiveness has got everything degrees, and that is almost as hot as else on earth skinned a thousand miles the yarn. • —if you would see this sight, take my No, Mauna Loa is ever a gentleman, advice. As soon as the handkerchief even in his wildest sprees. He tres- waves again, pack your grip and come passed a little through the ranch and to Hawaii, and wait for the shrugging forest lands, and he buried some choice of the shoulders. You won't have to fattening paddocks beneath millions of tons of stone, but he took not a single wait very long, for Mauna Loa is al- life ; no one was ever in any danger ways a gentleman.

Over rough lava. 292 THE MID-PACIFIC Home life in Tonga of today.

Tongan Homes

By WM. T. BRIGHAM, A. M., Director Bishop Museum. •

BEL TASMAN, the discoverer of ings. We must begin with Cook. Speak- the Tongan Group, which the ing of the houses on Namuka he says: A next visitor, Cook, called Friendly "Some here differ from those I saw at Islands, gives us no description of the the other isles; being inclosed or walled houses on this cluster of comparatively on every side with reeds neatly put to- low islands, and we must look to Cook gether but not close. The entrance is by for the needed information. Now the a square hole about two and a half feet Tongans are peculiarly situated, for while each way. The form of these houses is the racial affinities are all with the Ta- an oblong square ; the floor or foundation hitians, their commercial dealings were every way shorter than the eave, which is chiefly with the Fijians, a race usually about four feet from the ground. By this considered a cross between the Polyne- construction the rain that falls on the roof sian and some darker strain, whether Me- is carried off from the wall, which other- lanesian or Papuan. Hence it is interest- wise would decay and rot." ing to find what we can of their dwell- On his third and last voyage (1784)

293 .294 THE MID-PACIFIC

Cook again saw the Tongan group and in the night. Their whole furniture con- he gives us his final impressions. Prob- sists of a bowl or two, in which they make ably with his seamanship he disapprove-1 kava; a few gourds ; coconut shells; some of so many bare spars in the interior of small wooden stools, which serve them for the Tongan house, although he admits pillows, and perhaps a large stool for the they are judiciously arranged : chief or master of the family to sit upon." "It is remarkable that these people, who Next comes the account of William in many things show much taste and in- Mariner, a man whose name is honored genuity, should show little of either in as that of an accurate observer by all building their houses; though the defect who study the Eastern Pacific. His com- is rather in the design than in the execu- pulsory residence of several years on the tion. Those of the lower people are poor group has given us perhaps the best ac- huts, scarcely sufficient to defend them count of the daily life of that early time from the weather, and very small. Those that we have. Of Tongan house-building of the better sort are larger and more his words are few but to the point and comfortable, but not what we might ex- may be quoted in full: , pect. The dimensions of one of a mid- "Laga fate, house-building. Every man dling size are about thirty feet long, knows how to build a house, but those twenty broad, and twelve high. Their whose business it is have chiefly to erect house is, properly speaking, a thatched large houses on marly's, consecrated roof or shed, supported by posts and raft- houses, and dwellings for chiefs. The ers, disposed in a very judicious manner. general form of their houses is oblong, The floor is raised with earth smoother, rather approaching an oval, the two ends covered with strong, thick .matting, and being closed, and the front, and back open; kept very clean. The most of them are the sloping thatched roof descending to closed on the weather side (and sometimes within about four feet of the ground, more than two-thirds round) with strong which is generally supported by four posts ; mats or with branches of the coconut the larger houses by six, or sometimes tree, plaited or woven with each other. more. The chief art in building a house These they fix up edgewise, reaching from consists in fastening the beams, etc., the eaves to the ground; and thus they strongly, with plait of different colors, answer the purpose of a wall. A strong made of the husk of coconut, in such a mat, about two and one-half or three feet way as to look very ornamental; the col- broad, bent into the form of a semicircle, ors, which are black, red, and yellow, be- and set upon its edge, with the ends ing tastefully disposed. The thatch of the touching the side of the house, in shape superior houses is made of the dried leaves resembling the fender of a fire hearth, of • the sugar cane, and which will last incloses a space for the master and mis- seven or eight years without requiring re- tress of the family to sleep in. . . . The pair. The thatch of the common houses rest of the family sleep upon the floor, is made of matting formed of the leaVes wherever they please to lie down, the un- of the coconut tree, and which lasts about married men and women apart from each two or three years; but being much easier other. Or, if the family be large, there to make than the other, it is more fre- are small huts adjoining, to which the quently used. The flooring is thus made: servants retire in the night; so that pri- the ground, being raised about a foot, is vacy is as much observed here as one could beaten down hard, and covered with the expect. They have mats made on purpose leaves of the coconut tree, dried grass, or for sleeping on; and the clothes that they leaves of the ifi tree (Inocarpus edulis) ; wear in the day serve for their covering over this is laid a bleached matting, made THE MID-PACIFIC 295

of the young leaves of the coconut tree. mate. A casual visitor, therefore, can see The house consists, as it were, but of one but few dwellings when he has entered apartment, but which is subdivided occa- within the toto a, or fence of the abi; sionally by screens about six or eight feet and until he hunts them out amongst the high. In case of rain, or at night if the abounding shrubbery he wonders where weather is cool, they let down a sort of the people live. blind, which is attached to the eaves of "A Tonganese house suits the few neces- the open sides of the house; these blinds sities and, easy habits of the people, but are made of long mats, about six inches has none of the comforts so essential to in width, one above another and rather a higher type of civilization. With the overlapping, and are so contrived as to exception of what may be called public draw up by means of strings, like our buildings and a few of the dwellings of Venetian blinds, and are then concealed the chiefs of highest rank, their dimen- just within the eaves. The common houses sions are small, and they contain but two have not these blinds, but in place of apartments. They are constructed, how- them a few mats hung up as occasion may ever, with an eye to neatness and great require." strength; and when elaborately finished in Half a century passed, and we have an- the best native style their interior appear- other record of the Tongan house from a ance is by no means to be despised. The resident of some years, and this seems to walls range from four to eight feet in fill the few lines undrawn in the former height, and are formed either of a single pictures. Even with the example set by or double fencing of reeds, which, when King George Tubou, who delighted to interlaced and bound by sinnet to the toko- build his numerous residences of foreign tuus, or stakes and posts, planted all material in foreign manner, the general around the eaves of the building, resem- character of the Tongan house remained bles very much strong basket-work. These the same as when Cook and Mariner de- walls are sometimes made more wind and scribed it. I quote from the interesting weather-tight by the addition of a lining account of the Rev. Thomas West : of plaited coconut leaves; but at the best "Nukualofa (the Capital) is intersected they afford a sorry resistance to strong by tolerably wide paths, kept scrupulously winds or heavy rains. On the other hand, free from all rank vegetation and dirt. there is capital ventilation ; and perhaps These paths are bounded by the neat reed that is of greater importance in such a hot fences which inclose the abis or residential climate than even freedom from the more sections of the various chiefs and their re- occasional annoyances attendant upon tainers. These inclosures are planted stormy weather. To compensate for the largely with useful trees, such as the lowness of the walls, the roof of a Ton- bread-fruit, banana, coconut, orange, cit- ganese house is carried to a considerable ron, shaddock, and a variety of shrubs height. The rafters are .closely set and whose overhanging foliage effectually are generally made of the outer wood of screens the pathways from the intense the coconut tree or of the bread-fruit tree, heat of the sun. Very little order is ob- the latter of which has much the appear- served in placing the numerous houses ance of cedar wood and has a very pleas- within these inclosures. There are no ing and beautiful effect when nicely fin- regular avenues or streets. In fact a ished. The large beams to which the house is generally placed where it can rafters are attached are laid along the obtain the greatest amount of shade from grooved tops of high and durable posts, overhanging trees — a matter certainly of which reach about half way up the entire considerable importance in a tropical cli- height of roof. The inner ridgepole is 296 THE MID-PACIFIC usually ornamented by a profusion of sin- dwelling house unnecessary. What is net wrappings of varied colors and geo- wanting in the architectural beauty of metrically interlaced. The roof itself is these houses is amply remedied by the covered with a thick thatch, made from loveliness of the natural bowers from the leaves of the sugar cane or of the which they peep out on the passer-by." bamboo, and is perfectly water-tight. A With all this detail of the outward ap- well-built house will last a good many pearance, not a word of the method of years; but the thatching requires to be erecting the house. We learn, however, renewed, under the most favorable cir- that there has been little or no change cumstances, about once in five years. The from the time of Cook. The marked floor is laid with a profusion of dried feature is the open nature of the struc- leaves, which are in turn covered over ture, which was evidently used for noth- with numbers of mats made from the ing more than a shelter from rain and a coconut leaf, upon which again the finer bedroom. Turning from Tonga to Sa- sitting and sleeping mats are placed. No moa, we find the same open structure and provision is made in the interior of either ground plan, although the Samoans had native or European houses for cooking con- by no means the close connection with the veniences. A separate building contains Tongans that the Fijians had. We shall the kitchen requisites, and the heat of see later that the latter built a very dif- the climate renders a fireplace in the ferent house.

A Tongan Village. ADVERTISING SECTION

I Among the Hawaiian Islands

Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.

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The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAMSHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5 :15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau" ) leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare I fonolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every II a waii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday and Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in fact, of this wonderously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid markable Polynesian collection in the world. Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfers are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating _cveral of he wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Parlc. •••■■•••••••••■• The Island of Oahu

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- ,r o@p fArti7,00'CR latial ocean greyhound service between San 5 CA T1 Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, / 434 C/F/C or / have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & YO/11.214&iA • ,13 ?A ys Cooke, Ltd. ISt HAWAIIAN 10(i3„0 4C This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- Novcgavo /86/ /.7 lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. rAvEr Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for SEEP many of the plantations throughout Ha- Jacek-clan V of waii, and here may be secured much varied liekwarYa.n tl` Islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

OAHU AresiaSiettn Sqlsre Mlles 598 l'iNOLOW NORMAL 5Clit101. ca Leah rf Nand ,16 Mks • 30.l1.0. Of• MIIES Iclad 231\1116 11' Koala. 9 030 Ft Ann CoPYRI0tiTED 00 rl, E0, coo People I 1.1..3 1. POPE, D skrar Tr, Kilts ' DeLviet 'km Apt, 3soo KIP'S IkNrar fronliart,ahae'rq Kits 1 Government Rod around Island - fttst doss Poiroqi 54stern 5+‘ Crap for 1907 iiVZ)Tons, ,t

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The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian Group. The Island of Hawaii

Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin.

HAWAII 4 Pt ilcr, Brener, 74flprr 1.14.1325 rt o Up 7 Pt P'tM I Ili LeAt.:1 MA.? L. FNwei T,,r-ekvrp r Soo Plrlr &veer., for 19,6 137.

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. On the island of Maui, on which Alex- to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- movements of the large Inter-Island est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is steamers. This truly American concern Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- has diversified interests in all of ful extinct crater in the world, as on ands, and is therefore interested in the Hawaii, Kilauea is earth's largest ac- development in every way of every part tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, of the Territory. where this firm also has its interests, The Hawaiian group is composed of there are canyons as varied in color and seven large and a number of small isl- variety of scene as any in Arizona, while ands. The largest island of the group- on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- does the State of Connecticut, and boasts genwald building in Honolulu, there is an unbroken sugar-cane area more than the famous Pali or precipice which is a hundred miles long. It is the home of visited by every tourist, and is the pride the two highest island mountain peaks of the Hawaiians themselves. in the world. The going and coming of people in The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- southwest of San Francisco, and have able monthly calendar in red, white and a population of 200,000, the very living blue, issued by the firm of Alexander & of whom depends upon the growing of Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance sugar cane, the islands shipping over agents. This large calendar, it is safe 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America to say, hangs in every business office annually, thus creating and supporting the in the islands, and in many on the coast. two largest American steamship com- It shows each day just what steamer is panies, The Island of Maui

••••■•■•••••11.N.1111.1••••••■•••■••■■■■■■

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

\/1_A HONOLULU► NORMAL SCHOOL „SCAlf nr ( I Lt

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AU Area in 8tatote Square litiler.'72 Length 481`tiles, Breadth 30 tkdes Highest Elevation 10032 Feet 1-4011.5't Extinct Crater in thelNorhi opolotion over 25,00o ISt0Th n from HoncAuh, 7R Ayes udaF Pirmtotmns for 15o'f

The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chili, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. 1-10MF. FF.R'T'IT,T7.TNG government makes travel easy by a system of coupon tickets and facilities for caring The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- house west of the Rockies. The works of viduals or parties are made familiar with this company cover several acres near Hono- the industrial resources, and the American lulu. The ingredients are purchased in as well as the Britisher is made welcome if shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by he cares to make South Australia his home. the different plantations for their fertilizers The South Australian Intelligence and are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- King William Street, Adelaide, and the lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. government has printed many illustrated For the small planter this company makes books and pamphlets describing the scenic special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- and industrial resources of the state. A lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a postal card or letter to the Intelligence and special lawn fertilizer made by this corn-, Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii books and information you may desire. the garden of the Pacific. ON TO JAPAN. TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan From San Francisco, Vancouver and Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 from Honolulu there are two lines of fast vessels, and tonnage of 450,000 maintains a steamships to Sydney, Australia. service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- From Syney to Adelaide, South Aus- nese, Philippine and Australian ports to tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a which concession fares are granted tourists European service, fortnightly from Yoko- arriving from overseas, and no visitor to hama to London and Antwerp, and from the Australian Commonwealth can afford Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- to neglect visiting the southern central state toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be- of Australia; for South Australia is the sides these main services the Nippon Yu- State of superb climate and unrivalled re- sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the all of the principal ports in Japan, South,' is the capital, and there is a Govern- Korea and China, etc., thus making it ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau the ideal shippers' service from Aus- where the tourist, investor, or settler is tralia, America and Europe, as well as given accurate information, guaranteed by the most convenient around the Pacific the government, and free to all. From and around the world service for the Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river tourist or merchant. There are branch and motor excursions to almost every part offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted all the principal ports of the world. The through the magnificent mountain and head office is at Tokyo, Japan, and its pastoral scenery of South Australia. The telegraphic address Morioka, Tokyo. Wonderful New Zealand I

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen, the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- tains are some of the largest and most cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- scenic glaciers in the world. In these ship Co. also transfers passengers from Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. ■■■ ■■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■■ ■■■ •••■■■■■■•■■••••••■•■••■•••Io•M.M.■••■•••■■■••■■N ••■••■■=1.1111.•••M•11■■•■••■■•••• ••• ••••• •••• • •• ••• ••• • •• •••• ••••• •• ••• New South Wales

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date, well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. The climate of the State ranges from In the south, among the Australian the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- which contains the highest peak in the ers, and withal is one of the most equable Continent, and is said to be the oldest in the world. Its eastern shore is washed land surface on the globe. The Hotel by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with .tnd stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 the rim of the setting sun. feet. In Summer, the mcuntaineer and Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of bag with fish caught in a handy stream, rare magnificence. Through countless and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- dous gorges, comparable only to the nivals conducted on the glistening snow- fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- tus covered slopes give off health-giving The Government Tourist Bureau, a splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. For the Tourist and Visitor

The Alexander-Young Hotel (under same management as the Moana and Hawaiian.)

CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. concern is constantly adding new features Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- and new stock. The business man will press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island find his every need in the office is supplied and S• S. Co., Honolulu for special in- by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a clusive excursion rates. call over the phone, and this is true also THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- of the fashionable society leader, whether posite the Alexander Young, is the her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. singers and players, and here at every The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Machinery Merchants and leading auto- prices the delicacies of the season. mobile dealers, have their offices and store THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town in the Alexander Young Building, at the hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 their magnificent automobile salesroom and a month up. Phone 1267. garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Honolulu is so healthy that people don't street. Here one may find almost any- usually die there, but when they do they thing. Phone No. 4901. phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, "Maile" Australian butter from the 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, Metropolitan Meat Market on King and he arranges the after details. If you Street, stands at the head for flavor and are a tourist and wish to be interred in keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is your own plot on the mainland, Williams here you also get the tender meats and will embalm you; or he will arrange all fresh vegetables of which an abundant details for interment in Honolulu. Don't supply is always on hand. Heilbron & leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- other, but if you must, let your friends derful business until now the Metropolitan talk it over with Williams. Meat Market is the central and popular The largest of the very fashionable market place in Honolulu. Phone 3445. shops in the Alexander Young Building, Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, occupying the very central portion, is that Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest from the oven, the delicious baker's bread design is kept in stock. Every kind of and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery well as printers' and binders' supplies. crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come There are musical instruments of every from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the most complete and up to date machin- and the Angelus Player Piano and this ery and equipment in the territory. B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading woman's st ore in Honolulu, on Fort Street, between King and Hotel Streets.

E. 0. Hall & Son, corner Fort and King Streets.

A part of the interior of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Sts. The Power Factory, where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for.

ELECTRICITY IN HONOLULU. horsepower, with another two hundred and fifty horsepower to the Federal Wireless In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Station, fifteen miles distant, besides cur- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per rent for lighting all private residences in month per lamp, and six cents thereafter. Honolulu, as well as for operating its own From the Hawaiian Electric Company extensive ice plant. A line is now being plant, power is furnished to the pineapple built to furnish light and power to the canneries (the largest canneries in the great army post at Schofield Barracks, world) to the extent of seven hundred twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

Entrance to Lewers & Cooks' large establishment. Lumber, hardware, etc. Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Streets, is the actual center of life and leading enterprises, doing a flourishing activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- lumber and mill business. , section of the tram lines, the shoppers, Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the business men, and tourists await their cars, chief port, and from Hilo excursions chatting at the open soda fountain, that is are made up to all the points of interest. The the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the tourist and stranger is advised as tc the matter of home promotion work and is the sights of the city, and supplied with developing the wonderful scenic surround- any perfumes, candies or drugs he may ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo need during his stay. Chambers Drug Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation Store is one of the institutions of Hono- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has lulu. Phone No. 1291. recently extended its rails thirty-two miles Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe spected Chinese business man, is a director and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip of the I4ome Insurance Co., and head of is one of the scenic trips of the world. The the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the corner of King and Maunakea St., which Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a supplies the local dealers of the territory with drugs and general merchandise. branch with the Auto Service takes the tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge Whatever you do, do not fail to visit of the ever active Kilauea. the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King Street. Early morning is the best time for The leading music store in Hawaii is this, when all the multi-colored fish of on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom Hawaiian waters are presented to view Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and every nationality of the islands is on lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the talking machine. The Bergstrom Music leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Company, with its big store on Fort Street, Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- will provide you with these—a Chickering, tion of which the city is proud. a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a A monument to the pluck and energy of tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the if you are a transient it will rent you a City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, and manager. This plant at Queen and phone 2331. The House and Home

LIGHTING THE HOUSE. BUILDING THE HOME. There are 4100 consumers of gas in The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- Honolulu, and the price of gas in that ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- Building, are engineers and constructors cording to amount consumed, is a lower of buildings of every kind, from the smallest price than that charged for gas by any private residence to the largest and most other American city having not more than imposing blocks. Being composed of some 4100 consumers. of the most prominent men in the islands, When the Honolulu Gas Company first it is not surprising that it has secured began business the charge for gas was large and important contracts, including $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. sumers were secured the price was lower- The City's great furniture store, that or ed, and will be lowered considerably as J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of the people of the city become educated to the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. the fact that gas is the most economical Here the latest styles in home and office fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, furniture arriving constantly from San that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. Francisco are displayed on several spacious The gas mains of Honolulu are con- floors. Phone No. 2141. stantly being extended to the outlying dis- tricts. The brightest and cheapest street With the wood that is used for building lighting in the city is that secured from in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen gas in connection with the latest inven- Street, Phone 2105, have for generations tions in incandescent hoods, these giant supplied the people of Honolulu and those hoods made incandescent by a small jet of on the other islands; also their buildings gas giving a marvelous light that seems as and paints. Their office is on Queen St., bright as day. The smaller hoods are near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, used in the office and in the home, greatly and their lumber yards extend right back reducing the gas bills of consumers. to the harbor front, where every kind of The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its hard and soft wood grown on the coast is landed by the schooners that ply from spacious show rooms and offices at the corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, Puget Sound. and here the public is invited to meet with Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen the staff of experts in gas lighting and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed cooking devices. They know how to aid rock used in the construction of the mod- in saving on the gas bill to an extent that ern building in Hawaii. They also main- will induce all to use gas, both in the tain their own stables and drays. Draying kitchen and in the parlor. in Honolulu is an important business, and Every new gas consume* aids in lower- Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, ing the price of gas to all. They gladly and keep drays of every size, sort and de- send men to give estimates for the use of scription for the use of those who require gas in the home. Write them or phone them. They also conduct a rock crusher 3424. and supply wood and coal. The Banks of Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the . encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $7,555,975.03. Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial in- stitution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda the central bank of Honolulu, with a water. The Consolidated Soda Water capital, surplus and undivided profits Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the amounting to nearly a million and a half, largest in the Territory. Aerated waters or more than the total of any other bank cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root magnificent building at the busiest busi- Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and that is delicious, besides a score of other Fort streets; has a savings department and flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a was organized in 1897. bottle at any store. Financial Hawaii

A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, the Capital of the Company was $200,- now has $140,000 in cash capital and earn- 000 ; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided ed surplus, and gross assets of $390,000. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- company business in all its various lines ganized and managed by the same people, with offices in the Stangenwald Building, has assets in excess of $200,000. The Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. splendid growth of these concerns has been The Mutual Telephone Co. works in due to careful and conservative manage- close accord with the Marconi Wireless, ment and to the unbounded confidence re- and controls the wireless service between posed in them by the people whom they the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- phone service throughout Hawaii. For a ecutor and Trustee under Wills, Adminis- dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- trator and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary five words may be sent to any part of the Agent, and as Attorney and Agent for non- territory. Honolulu was the first city in residents and others needing such service. the world to install a house to house tele- Its offices are centers of activity in real phone system, and Hawaii the first country estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- to commercially install wireless telegraphy. cles. The Company is a member of the Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Street is the Office Supply Co., the home of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book is the most recently incorporated Trust cases. Every kind of office furniture is Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as• business interests in the Territory. Its well as a complete line of office stationery. directors and officers are men of ability, There is a repair shop for typewriters, and integrity and high standing in the com- every necessary article that the man of munity. The Company was incorporated business might need. Phone 3843.

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the business center of the city; here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance and real estate handled. Here is the home of the Kaimuki Land Company, and safety vaults.' • THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA

Al•■•••••■•••■••■■•■•■■II.•••••■••■•■Ml. ••••■•II•■•■■••■•••■••■••■ ■••-••••■••••■••■11

Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. ClUPPAIXTAIMMIASIVAIMMIKIMMLWAMIATAWSAIPAIIMMAISMEK•42.4.941"/MMIIMJAPIti•

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The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honolulu to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $10 covers all expenses of this Pam-day trip.

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PRINTED BY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.

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