Daily Edition december 20, 2016 1

All Women Photo Op Beauty Band Maria Grazia Chiuri chose Miuccia talks about Former Revlon ceo Alan Brigitte Lacombe to shoot Fondazione Prada’s new Ennis has formed Glansaol to ’s spring ad campaign. photo “Observatory.” acquire small beauty brands. Page 7 Page 10 Page 11 Fashion. Beauty. Business.

business Super Saturday Not So ‘Super’ ● Discounts are expected to be deeper in this last week leading to the and Hanukkah holiday celebrations.

By Vicki M. Young with contributions from Jean E. Palmieri, Kari Hamanaka and Sharon Edelson

Most retailers generally got what they wanted over Super Saturday weekend — a pickup in traffic and sales to help with the holiday selling season. But the weekend wasn’t quite the knockout retailers hoped for because of frigid weather and snow and ice storms in a lot of the country. Now the key question is whether the last-minute rush over the Continued on page 9

beauty Bobbi Brown Ends a Chapter

● The makeup artist will be leaving her namesake company, and Peter Lichtenthal will oversee the business in her stead. Sleep By Pete Born Bobbi Brown is turning the page on 25 years of her career by leaving her cosmet- ics brand. The owner of Bobbi Brown Cosmet- ics, Estée Lauder Companies Inc., said Monday that Brown will be leaving the company by the end of the year. Peter Lichtenthal, global brand president, will No More continue to oversee the business. These clothes aren’t just for bedtime. Taking cues from innerwear and Brown was not available for an interview loungewear classics, designers bring ease and elegance to all hours of the at press time, but she issued a statement that the celebration of brand’s 25th anniver- day and night. Here, M. Martin’s triacetate and polyester robe jacket worn sary was a milestone “that made me realize with Ji Oh’s wool and silk pants, along with Dogeared’s necklace. it was time to start a new chapter and move For more, see pages 4 and 5. on to new ventures,” she stated, without revealing what that new chapter may be. photograph By Andrew Jacobs According to sources in the market, Brown, age 59, is expected to reveal her plans some time next year. Although sources say she has a non-compete clause in her Lauder contract, Brown is expected Continued on page 10 An Advertising Opportunity

Men’s Fashion Weeks Europe Men’s Fashion

ISSUE: January 11

CLOSE: 12/28 · MATERIALS: 01/02 Paris/New York Men’s Fashion

ISSUE: January 25 CLOSE: 01/11 · MATERIALS: 01/16

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] december 20, 2016 3

business Top 5 Tumi’s Jerome Griffith Gains Trending Support as Lands’ End CEO on WWD.com

● Wall Street has its fingers “Jerome is an exceptionally gifted New School’s Parsons School of Design. crossed that the new leader with an impressive track record On Friday, S&P cut its outlook on of spearheading growth and expansion Lands’ End’s debt to negative from executive steers the company at several iconic apparel and consumer stable, noting the company’s “ineffective in a more mass direction. goods companies,” Linden said. “Over the merchandising, disadvantageous retail course of his career, Jerome has demon- store positioning [nearly all physical By Evan Clark and Katya Foreman strated a special talent for innovation in locations are within the struggling retailer design and functionality to attract new Sears], and management’s lack of ability Investors were keen to see former Tumi customers while upholding the quality, to leverage the company’s infrastructure Holdings chief executive officer Jerome value, service and products that current and expertise in the direct-to-consumer Griffith take the helm at Lands’ End, but customers love.” channel have weakened the company’s a hint of doubt remained since the staid Andrew Bove, a debt analyst at S&P competitive position, and will remain as company’s last luxe leader took the brand Global Ratings, said Lands’ End “kind of key issues that weigh on company perfor- too far up market. veered away from traditionally what their mance over the next 12 to 24 months.” Griffith will become ceo in March, suc- merchandise strategy was, they got into Sears bought Lands’ End in 2002 ceeding Joseph Boitano and James Gooch, more fashion-forward type of merchan- — before hedge fund honcho Edward who have served as co-interim ceo’s dise, which hasn’t resonated well with Lampert combined Sears with Kmart since September, when former Dolce & their core customer.” and the two ailing concepts fell into Gabbana executive Federica Marchionni The company has recently changed what has been a steep decline in a shift- left the company after just 19 months. She course and Bove said Griffith should con- ing market place. Tiffany & Co. was criticized after her efforts to bring out tinue to try to push the brand to a more Lands’ End was spun off in 2014, and Lands’ End chicer side fell flat. mass audience. still gets nearly 15 percent from retail Partners With Traders were betting that mistake “It’s too early to really tell what’s going revenues, mostly drawn through Sears wouldn’t be repeated and sent shares of to happen with this new ceo, it looks like shops-in-shop. NYPD on Branded the company up as much as 6.4 percent he’s coming over from more higher-end For the first nine months of the year, before the stock closed at $17.75, up 3.8 companies, so that’s something that wor- Lands’ End posted a loss of $15 million on a Barricades percent. ries me a little bit,” he said. 7.3 percent drop in sales, to $876.9 million. Josephine Linden, chairman of Lands’ Griffith was most recently ceo of Tumi Upon Griffith’s arrival, Boitano will Leading to End, said the company is counting on Holdings and prior to that held executive move to the roles of executive vice presi- Griffith’s “experience and tactical execu- positions at Esprit Holdings Ltd., Tommy dent and chief merchandising and design Flagship tion” to “improve financial performance Hilfiger, the J. Peterman Company and Gap officer. And Gooch will transition to exec- ● In the shadows of and build sustainable long-term value for Inc. Griffith is a member of the board of utive vice president and chief operating Trump Tower, stockholders.” Vince, Tom Tailor SE, Samsonite and The and financial officer and treasurer. Tiffany cleverly looks to salvage holiday-season sales at its Fifth Avenue flagship. fashion ● Eric Trump Spotted at Graydon Carter’s Natalie Massenet’s Career Waverly Inn ● Cosmopolitan Magazine Removed From Plans Under the Spotlight Checkout Racks in ● The Mail on Sunday Midwest Supermarkets published a speculative ● Unilever’s Living Proof item that she is Acquisition Portends More “being considered for a Deals in 2017 possible role” at Farfetch.com. ● Pinterest Predicts: The By Samantha Conti and Top Style Trends of 2017 Natalie Theodosi

LONDON — First American Vogue, now Farfetch.com. The media just cannot get NEWSMAKERS enough of Natalie Massenet and what her next move might be following her abrupt This Week’s Most exit from Yoox Net-a-porter Group — Talked About Names Natalie Massenet especially since her one-year noncompete In Our Industry expired in September. Over the weekend, the Mail on Sunday comes in the wake of chatter that Mass- veterans Adam Wilkie and Whitney published a speculative item, quoting enet, who founded Net and who contin- Bromberg Hawkings. According to

P ix/ RE X/ S hutterstock C urtis/S tar by B rown C lint S paulding/ WWD / RE X/ S hutterstock; C hiuri by H adid and G razia / RE X/ S hutterstock; BFA arrell/ unnamed sources, that Massenet is ues to serve as chairman of the British industry sources, Massenet is also in “being considered for a possible role” Fashion Council, is taking Anna Wintour’s the process of raising money for her

rada by F by rada at Farfetch.com, the high-end retail place at Vogue. She denied those rumors own investment fund, with plans to take platform, as it prepares for an initial in these pages in September. stakes in a variety of businesses. She has public offering. The paper theorized that Massenet’s near-term plans include declined to comment on the matter. it could be a consultancy or a non-execu- the following: She is understood to be In October, during a BFC event in Los Miuccia Prada Bella Hadid tive position. staying on — indefinitely — in her role Angeles, Massenet fielded questions José Neves, the founder and chief exec- at the British Fashion Council, although about her future and said the following: utive officer of Farfetch, said Monday both the BFC and Massenet have “I have two start-ups under my belt that the company does not comment on declined to comment on her future at already, but I can’t reveal what they rumors, and a spokesperson for Mass- the organization. She has also registered are yet.” She said she plans to make an enet also declined to comment. (Farfetch a new company, Imaginary Ventures, announcement “soon” about the nature has also repeatedly denied media specu- with Companies House in the U.K., and is of Imaginary Ventures, which she formed lation that it’s currently pursuing an IPO taking stakes in start-ups. last year. “I’m interested in technology, although, as reported, it may be in the One of her investments includes fashion, retail and emerging talent. So I Bobbi Brown Maria Grazia cards in the future). Flowerbx, a wholesale and retail flower hope to be able to tackle all of that in the Chiuri

hutterstock; P D avid F isher/ RE X/ S hutterstock; by photograph M assenet The Massenet/Farfetch speculation delivery website founded by next few years.” 4 december 20, 2016

Trends Daytime Lingerie Sleep No More Inspired by classic innerwear and loungewear, designers keep it easy and elegant all day long.

Styled by Mayte Allende photographs By Andrew Jacobs

Market Editor Andrew Shang Fashion Market Assistant Emily Mercer

Alice Archer’s silk satin embroidered kimono. december 20, 2016 5

Vince’s acetate camisole and skirt; Attico’s silk robe. Jenni Kayne’s silk trench.

Trends Daytime Lingerie

M. Martin’s triacetate and Wendelborn’s silk polyester robe jacket; and spandex bodysuit; Ji Oh’s wool and silk pants; Markoo wool blend pants; Mizuki cuff. Dogeared necklace. 6 december 20, 2016

Pre-Fall 2017

Iceberg

Maria Grazia Severi

Maria Grazia Severi stars, and the floor-length chiffon and lace Maria Grazia Severi’s design team looked dresses incorporated sporty elements for a at the artwork of Lucio Fontana for pre- cool touch. Everything exalted the urban, fall. His distinctive cuts in canvas and the street feel of the brand, which after several bright color palette he favored served as changes during the last few years seems to inspirations for the collection’s clean lines have found a new, captivating language to and colorblocking. Its graphic quality was express its ironic take on upper contempo- enhanced by the plissé rendered on differ- rary fashion. — A.T. ent fabrics, from silk crafted from com- fortable pajamalike pants to the knitted wool of feminine dresses with flared cuffs. Ulla Johnson Delicate ruffles punctuated an elegant Don’t let the handmade sweaters and cape and decorated the collar of a simple bohemian sensibilities fool you — a nomad, minidress in a bold red tone. The cute, soft Ulla Johnson is not. She is instead ultra- femininity of these pieces was balanced by focused in growing her business and with the more rigorous appeal of coats and suits a store opening in February, things seem crafted from mannish fabrics. The lineup to be expanding for the brand. Fash- offered a complete, commercially savvy ion-wise, “We are constantly looking into wardrobe for women who crave round-the- new shapes and techniques,” she said. clock elegance. — Alessandra Turra For pre-fall, this was evident in the use of denim, which although not entirely new to Johnson (she is known for her love of Iceberg American classics), she definitely explored For his first pre-fall collection for Iceberg, it deeper. A denim dress, for example, creative director James Long combined was rendered in a fit-and-flare silhouette the brand’s signature Pop attitude with his with voluminous sleeves and strategically familiar London, downtown mood. The placed seams that cinched the waist and result was a playful, youthful lineup that amplified the hips. “I already had one celebrated a lively, relaxed femininity pep- made for myself,” she said. And that’s the pered with a hint of eccentricity. Cartoons thing about her pieces: they are made to from the Batman series were splashed on be wanted and made to be worn. a range of pieces, from a silk duchesse Elsewhere, she offered delicately ruffled bomber matched with acid-washed cuffed chiffon dresses, floral eyelet tops, over- pants to a maxi ruffled dress. They also sized hand knits and knitted rabbit fur appeared as intarsia details on a maxi jackets, but she offset the girly factors fringed knitted sweater worn with an with atypical tailoring and more sports- asymmetric striped skirt. The military, rig- wear-leaning pieces such as camel shrunk- orous feel of a coat with multiple pockets en-wool cashmere peacoats, ribbed sweat- was softened by the insertion of glittery ers and relaxed suiting. — Mayte Allende Ulla Johnson december 20, 2016 7

business Dior Taps Brigitte Lacombe for Campaign ● Maria Grazia Chiuri kept her women-first policy for her first advertising for the French house.

By Miles Socha

PARIS — When Dior selected Maria Grazia Chiuri as its seventh couturier, the Italian designer was hailed as the first woman to lead the venerable French house. What’s more, Chiuri is emerging as the ringleader of a battalion of female talents, including the team assembled for her first advertising campaign, in which photog- rapher Brigitte Lacombe captures the complicity and complexity of twin models Ruth and May Bell. In a series of calm, intimate portraits, the tomboyish flair of Ruth Bell becomes a foil for her sister’s ethereal femininity — except when they subtly swap guises. “I really wanted to have a woman photographer,” Chiuri said in an exclusive interview about the ads, slated to break in an array of February magazines, starting with U.K. titles in early January. “I’m really interested in different interpretations of Looks from the ad campaign. femininity, and [Lacombe] really captures the expression of different attitudes. generation, and the close and playful with Templer. “We really like to describe this new idea relationship of the sisters is plain as they Probably best known for her celebrity about femininity,” she added. “Dior is very squeeze hip-to-hip on a vintage armchair, portraits in magazines such as Vanity Fair, close to femininity, and it’s important to or slouch on the floor. Lacombe has photographed the likes of describe a modern femininity.” Occasionally, Chiuri heightened Ruth Meryl Streep, Mick Jagger, Andy Warhol, Rendered mainly in black-and-white, Bell’s boyish allure by dressing her in Leonardo DiCaprio, Julia Roberts and the images represent a break from the fencing-inspired outfits. At other times, Martin Scorsese. arch fashion-driven intensity of recent she dissolves it with a diaphanous bustier She called Chiuri “strong, direct open Dior fashion campaigns — and the glam- gown. Likewise, May Bell flits between and generous” as a collaborator with “a azon character portrayed by Charlize mannish tailoring and embroidered tulle. very clear idea about how women should Theron in J’Adore perfume advertising. Chiuri described a “beautiful time” be portrayed and looked at, which is a Grace and fragility are among the qual- on the set in which their complex and point of view that I share and understand.” ities Chiuri wished to exalt in the cam- diverse personalities emerged. The spring ads are but one element in paign, along with a contemporary mood Peter Philips, creative and image direc- a wider project Dior calls “The Women and youthful verve. Among the clothes tor of Dior makeup, went for nude-look Behind the Lens.” featured are T-shirts bearing the slogan faces and natural, tousled hairstyles. In the lead-up to Chiuri’s debut, Dior “We Should All Be Feminists.” Chiuri tapped Karl Templer for the enlisted a number of female photogra- “I wanted to start a dialogue with a new campaign, reuniting her with a stylist phers to document fittings, the atelier and generation of women, which is the Millen- synonymous with her years as co-creative the backstage scene. These include Janette nial youth,” Chiuri said. director of Valentino, now led by Pier- Beckman, Sophie Carre, Maripol and The Bell sisters are emblematic of that paolo Piccioli, who also continues to work Chloé Le Drezen.

business How U.S. Retailers Could Be Impacted by Tax Reform

● Analysts see potential winners potential tax reform in the U.S. — and various differences in business models be incrementally more cautious on Carter’s and losers if new legislation found that retailers and apparel firms will across our group (wholesale versus retail, Inc., Urban Outfitters Inc., Under Armour, see their bottom lines impacted. global versus domestic, multibrand versus Fossil Group and Gap Inc.,” he said. takes shape in 2017. Ike Boruchow, senior analyst at Wells monobrand, etc.), the range of possible In the Telsey Advisory Report, the By Arthur Zaczkiewicz Fargo Securities, said in his report that the outcomes is quite wide.” analysts said with the change of admin- most relevant portions of House Speaker The Wells Fargo analysts acknowledged istrations to President Trump from Paul Ryan’s proposed Republican Tax that there are many variables to consider President Obama “there are expectations From tax reform to a buoyant stock mar- Reform Plan are the proposals to eliminate but looking at margin structure, domestic for many pro-growth policies under ket, 2017 will see lots of changes — both the tax deduction on imported goods. sales and COGS, “we find that off-price, jew- Trump, including tax reform and infra- good and bad — that will impact retailers Boruchow said it “would be a material elry retailers and essentially domestic retail- structure investment, but there may well and fashion brands, according to two negative across our coverage universe,” ers of third party brands (that have pricing be offsetting impacts caused by possible analysts’ reports. but that reducing the corporate income tax power) are best positioned to deal with any tariffs, an overhaul to the Affordable Care In its annual outlook report, analysts rate from 35 percent to 20 percent would fallout from these political changes.” Act, a hold on minimum wages and higher at Telsey Advisory Group sees sweeping clearly benefit retailers. Digging deeper, “This is primarily due to the high pro- interest rates.” changes, “which is exciting and creating Boruchow said to fully assess the impact it portion of domestic sales, combined with “In our view, consumer (and other) cause for optimism as expressed by the was important to determine the percent- their low level of imports and top-line/cat- companies should benefit from a profit recent performance in the U.S. stock mar- age of cost of goods sold that are imported egory momentum,” Boruchow said adding standpoint,” said Dana Telsey, chief kets,” they noted. But the analysts quickly as well as the “margins structure” of the that as a result retailers in his coverage research officer of the firm. “But consum- added that there is concern because a lot of business. Also knowing the domestic sales universe that would be best positioned ers may not share in the upside to the the change on the horizon “is unknown.” as a percent of total business would clarify and even benefit from these changes same extent, which could pressure spend- chard From oil prices and proposed tax the impact of the tax reform plan. would be Burlington Coat Factory; TJX ing. While we foresee a scenario in which reform to tourism and the fate of the U.S. “While companies that generate most Cos.; Ross Stores; Tiffany & Co.; Finish more affluent consumers benefit from the health care system, the Telsey analysts of their sales and profits within the U.S. Line; Signet Jewelers, and Ulta Beauty. Trump administration’s policies, lower- to said the impact on consumer spending may benefit from a lower tax rate, they “On the flip side, given the high degree middle-income consumers may remain could be significant. may also experience an increase in of imports and low gross margins, apparel under pressure or even come under more Meanwhile, in a separate outlook report their taxable income,” Boruchow said. retailers and footwear manufacturers (as pressure given Trump’s views on many from Wells Fargo Securities, analysts at “Geographic mix can have both a positive well as watch manufacturers) appear to be issues important to them, especially

ior photograph by D elphine A by D ior photograph the firm focused on the implications of and a negative impact. Thus, given the the most at risk subcategories — and we’d wages and health care.” 8 december 20, 2016

business Americana Manhasset’s Full Dance Card

● The relatively small energy,” said Caryn Hirshleifer. shopping center does some “We’ve seen the most dramatic changes in our business in the last five years. We of the highest sales per decided to go full-fledged into men’s. We square foot in the country. had no idea men’s was going to become ladies,” said David Sills, who runs men’s, By Sharon Edelson adding that MRKT’s sales have grown by Americana Manhasset is a constant work double digits in recent years. in progress. New to Americana are Diane von The 220,000-square-foot open air cen- Furstenberg, Zimmermann, Bandier and ter on Long Island, N.Y.’s affluent North Agent Provocateur. Tesla, which represents Shore recaptures space from retailers that a new lifestyle category for the Americana, no longer resonate with customers and opened its permanent store in the spring. doles out the square footage to in-demand Urban Zen unveiled an 1,800-square- brands. With sales averaging $1,800 a foot store selling rtw, statement jewelry square foot, the 60-year-old Americana is and handcrafted leather pieces made by one of the most productive centers in the artisans in Bali and Haiti. A Ghurka pop-up country. It continues to conceive of new shop opened between and Burb- events and seek ways to improve service, erry. “We’ll see how it does,” Castagana elevate its advertising and upgrade its said. “We’re in talks with all the majors digital experience. just to stay in touch so we’re on their Americana Manhasset faces increasing radar. A certain segment of our leases are competition from regional shopping malls 15 year leases and they’ll be coming due.” intent on courting high-end consumers. Family-owned London Jewelers reno- Last year, Neiman Marcus opened it first Hermès at Americana Manhasset. vated its 21,300-square-foot space to create Long Island store at the Roosevelt Field boutiques for Rolex and Patek Philippe. mall in Garden City, N.Y., and the Ameri- for the center, which were fully realized and lots of trees.” The store sells Panerai, IWC and Omega, cana’s owners and tenants were worried many years later. The architect has placed six major sculp- among others, and operates an adjacent over its impact. After Peter Marino designed a Giorgio tures around the center, including multiple Cartier unit. London’s jewelry boutiques “Neiman Marcus at Roosevelt Field has Armani shop-in-shop for Hirshleifers in Lalanne sheep, and a Nikki de Saint Phalle. will next go under the knife. had no measurable effect,” Americana’s 1986, Castagna approached him about creat- Recent major expansions include “We have some of the top conversion owner Frank Castagna recently claimed. ing a master plan for Americana Manhasset. Bottega Veneta, which grew to 4,000 rates,” said Castagna of Americana. “Our The Americana dodged a bullet when Marino said he is working on new signage square feet from 1,400; , stores have upped their service compo- Taubman Cos., gave up a 19-year battle and a new entrance to the center with which hopscotched from 1,400 square feet nent. We’re introduced all-season ward- with residents in Syosset, N.Y., where it “beautiful new stainless steel and a shade of to 5,000 square feet to 7,400 square feet, robing.” Americana operates a personal planned to build the Mall at Oyster Bay red like the one found in Robert Indiana’s and Hermès, which was 1,300 and is now shopping office with a concierge, two with anchors Neiman Marcus and Nord- ‘Love’ painting. It’s clean and crisp and very 6,200 square feet. Hermès added a Saint- seamstresses and four personal shoppers. strom. Taubman sold the property to modern. It’s timeless and not trendy.” Louis crystal and table wear boutique, one “They help with the business because they Simon Property Group. Castagna Realty “It’s basically what I saw in his office,” of only three in the U.S. understand the customer,” he said, adding Co. Inc., Americana’s parent, is a part- Castagna said of Marino. “All that lime- Gucci is next in line to renovate its store that consumers spend about $20 million ner on the revised concept, which now stone, granite, bronze and stainless steel. in 2018. annually on gift cards. includes residences and a 30-acre park. His fees are fairly heavy, but he produces Changes at the 17,600-square-foot Hirsh- The makeup of Americana’s shoppers has “There will be retail, but not anchors the results. We were very fortunate. We’re leifers come fast and furious as the retailer changed over the years. Today, 30 percent and not fashion tenants,” Castagna said. the only retail center he works for.” capitalizes on nascent trends and launches of the center’s clients are Asian and living in “The retail will address the needs of the Americana’s appeal in part comes from new concepts. In addition to its substantial Queens. To cater to their needs, Americana community.” its hybrid nature. “It’s an interesting Chanel boutique, featuring ready-to-wear has introduced Asian sales associates. Castagna has always made the needs of suburban phenomenon,” Marino said. “It’s and accessories, Hirshleifers recently Americana’s advertising has become the community one of his priorities. the ability to keep one foot in the city with launched a dedicated space for Céline rtw increasingly sophisticated to keep pace Americana Manhasset, which claims to sophisticated shops and one foot in the and accessories and unveiled a Christian with its retail tenants. Laspata DeCaro be among the first centers to link retail country with trees and plantings. Louboutin shop. started working with the center 14 years and charity, held its annual fashion show “We came up with this term ‘a semi-ur- Hirshleifers relocated and expanded its ago. “We shot ‘A North Shore Story,’ a in September, which benefited women’s ban shopping center,’” the architect con- Brunello Cucinelli storefront and unveiled biannual catalogue close to home,” said health at Northwell Health. Champions for tinued. “I hated developments that were a Chrome Hearts boutique. The retailer’s Charles DeCaro. “Since then, we’ve trav- Charity, its annual holiday shopping event, like Rodeo Drive trying to copy a European shoe salon is expanding with a Roger eled to Vietnam, Paris, London, Rome, donates 25 percent of shoppers’ pre-tax street. That’s Disneyland to me.” Vivier shop-in-shop and a dedicated Valen- Sicily and Coney Island. The catalogues purchases to participating charities of their Marino decided to put the “more tino boutique is in the works. always have an editorial slant. It’s not your choice. Last year was the 20th anniversary serious brands such as Chanel, Dior and MRKT at Hirshleifers has grown its typical shopping destination advertising of the program, which raised more than $1 Bottega Veneta on the north side of the footprint to include forward fashion and by any means. The books have taken on a million for not-for-profit organizations. center and the fun, more youthful brands accessories for men and women from life of their own with talent such as Karlie When Castagna bought the strip mall in on the south side. There was no sun on brands such as Off-White, Vetements and Kloss, Natalie Westling, Lexi Boling and 1956, its tenants included Dressbarn, Bak- the north side, so I said, ‘Let’s have all the . “The area is really cross polli- Caroline Trentini. The caliber of talent we ers Shoes, Lerner Shops and Waldbaum’s facades with limestone awnings.’ Along nating between fashion and street culture, use is commensurate with what the Ameri- supermarket. He had upscale aspirations the south side, there’s multicolor awnings which has created a tremendous new cana stands for. It’s a global brand now.”

business announced the shuttering of Self’s print magazine, opting to push its digital presence. In October, Condé released its Retailers Tilt Ad Dollars to Digital decision to consolidate its creative, copy and research departments across titles in ● As newspaper circulation agency, released its findings of its Novem- With less ad dollars, circulation plummets addition to revamping its international dwindles and fails to deliver, ber and December measurements. Its — and down goes the spiral. The research Vogue digital editions. research unveiled that retail spending on also revealed that national chains are Effective as of January, Hearst plans to retailers look online to spend newspapers ads are down 30 percent so pulling out of inserts, a once traditional ad combine editorial staff of five titles ‚ Sev- advertising money. far — the biggest decline in four years. placement during the holiday season. enteen, Redbook, Woman’s Day, Cosmo- According to the analysis, newspapers Print publications are throwing their politan and Good Housekeeping. While the By Elizabeth Doupnik amounted for 13 percent of the slump in weight behind their digital counterparts. publishing house takes a new approach for retailers’ total media buys including TV, Newspapers might consider taking a page its legacy glossies, it’s also looking to new It’s a snowball effect. As traditional newspaper, radio and digital display ads out of Condé Nast or Hearst’s book in opportunities to draw in readers — and newspaper circulation continues to dis- (not including paid search, online video order to alleviate immediate pain points. ad dollars. Food Network personality Ree solve, retailers are throwing their ad bud- or mobile). Each of the publishing powerhouses has Drummond will launch a namesake maga- get behind digital buys this holiday season. It’s a chicken-egg situation. As newspa- recently announced new efforts to endure zine in June 2017 under Hearst’s umbrella. No news there. What is buzz-worthy is the pers defer to more nimble digital competi- changing climates in the way readers con- Drummond boasts more Instagram rate at which retail ads have plummeted. tors, circulation dwindles leaving retailers sume news. followers than Seventeen and Redbook

eorge C hinsee G eorge by A mericana photograph Kantar Media, a research, data and insights with less than appealing market options. Earlier this month, Condé Nast combined — likely not a coincidence. december 20, 2016 9

sales up 29.89 percent, although extreme Super Saturday cold weather temperatures in certain Not So ‘Super’ parts of the country may have hampered the performance. continued from page 1 Taubman Centers’ Beverly Center in Los Angeles saw a strong Saturday and expects that to continue this week, according to its marketing and sponsor- weekend and this week will be enough for ship director Susan Vance. stores to hit their holiday targets of 3 to The shopping center, which is under- 4 percent growth — and at what price to going a major renovation, expects visitor margins those sales will come. levels to continue ramping up this week Marshal Cohen, retail industry ana- with a big push coming Friday when many lyst at NPD Group, said, “Saturday was will be off of work or winding down their actually pretty busy. It was almost the workdays early. That’s expected to lead to equivalent to last year’s final Saturday, one final push Saturday for and we still have another [Saturday] to and the start of Hanukkah. go. Up until this point, we’ve been slightly Overall, foot traffic into the center — behind in traffic. With one more weekend which runs the gamut from fast-fashion to go, [the extra Saturday] will be a nice retailers such as H&M and Forever 21 to opportunity for retailers.” contemporary brands such as Sandro So far traffic at the malls has been lag- and Maje and luxury along the lines of ging, mostly because the holiday selling Burberry, Saint Laurent and others — has season has been spread out, beginning been about on par to slightly up this before and extending out holiday season as compared with prior due to the extra shopping weekend this Shoppers were out at the stores, years, according to Vance. She added this year. Cohen said the holiday sales data and using their phones to price check. year’s performance is about on par with will be both “front-loaded and back- the National Retail Federation’s outlook, loaded, in comparison to last year when it He also cautioned that retailers may Tex., has had the opposite experience. which projects holiday sales to be up 3.6 was just back-loaded.” be getting the sales now, but it will be the “Our vendors are opening stores and percent this year. According to Craig Johnson, founder and returns that could be the big question next between them and the discounters and the Joe Nastri, market executive for the president of retail research firm Customer week. “Three years ago, the general return Internet, it’s tough,” he said. Metro New York area at Capital One Bank, Growth Partners, shoppers were definitely rate was low to mid single digits. With Zack continues to battle against the which lends to many apparel firms, said, at stores where feasible, but not neces- the growth of online, we are hearing that headwinds and has added women’s wear, “From what I’m hearing, 3 to 4 percent sarily buying unless they saw a sizable returns can be as high as 40 percent to 50 which now accounts for 25 percent of growth [for holiday sales] is realistic.” discount. CGP had a team out at the malls percent,” the analyst said. sales, and has seen some strength in sport He said that colleagues on the bank’s across the U.S. He explained that the problem with coats, sport shirts, socks and other acces- apparel team who were at the malls “Nationally, it was a good weekend, free shipping and free returns — which sories for men. “There’s not one really hot over the weekend said the department retrospectively, but not great. Weather for Siegel said is how retailers address the thing though,” he said. stores were “heavily promoting” this the upper third of the country was tricky. need to be “seamless” and convenient for Zack said that for independents, it boils past weekend, but the good news is that It got better later in the morning but if you apparel shoppers — is that now consumers down to finding merchandise “that no one “inventory levels looked fairly low and in go to the Central States, they had snow and don’t need to be shopping in stores since else has” as a way to stay in business and good shape.” That has Nastri concluding ice coming in in the middle of the after- they can try on at home. But while the he’s looking forward to the men’s market that “most of our clients will make plan” noon, which trimmed things in the evening sales may be completed initially at higher in January when he can refresh his assort- — banker-speak for noting that apparel [hours],” Johnson said. prices, the items that are returned and ment for the future. “The year ahead will suppliers will end the year meeting their By segment, Johnson said traffic was subsequently sold will be at the lower pre- see a lot of changes,” he predicted. targeted 2016 sales goals. fractionally up compared with last year, vailing selling price. All that — shipping and Walter Loeb, president of Loeb Asso- Jefferies’ retail analyst Randal J. Konik with much of that growth due to online return costs that retailers absorb, as well ciates, said that retailers he spoke with said pent-up demand and the deep freeze sales. “Store traffic was essentially flat, and as a selling price for the returned item that “were very unhappy about the snowfall throughout the Northeast, combined with if you peel apart the malls, store traffic was could reflect a third or fourth discounted and the business on Super Saturday. It shoppers making last-minute purchases down 3 to 4 percent. Off mall, where the price — will have an impact on the retail- deters people from coming to stores and “led to busy stores throughout the week- majority of sales took place, that was up,” ers’ margins for the fourth quarter. made it impossible for them to respond end.” He noted that “promotions for the Johnson said. Bill Lewis, senior vice president of to doorbusters.” most part remained largely in-line with last By sector, the retailers with the “stron- consumer products, retail and distribution While shopping on Saturday afternoon year for the vast majority of retailers we vis- gest sales were had at the value-oriented for Capgemini Consulting, also saw “a lot was more easily accessible, Loeb said “a ited, which we believe speaks to lean inven- destinations, such as off-pricers like TJX of foot traffic” when he was out at several lot of retailers were left with merchan- tory positions” exiting the third quarter. and Century 21. The discounters such as malls over the weekend. “I also saw people dise because the momentum never really Konik said that Victoria’s Secret/Pink Wal-Mart and Target were not great like in on their phones, using the devices to accelerated. While everybody had attrac- remained heavily promotional over the the olden days, but at least sales were still competitively shop while in the stores or tive offers, none of it was any different weekend. Bras were $35 on average, while up,” he said. to determine whether or not to ship from than the offers earlier this month or on bralettes were ticketed at $9.99. Customers In terms of pricing strategies, John- another store,” he said. Thanksgiving.” who spent $75 received a $20 reward card. son said that in softlines, which includes Dana Katz, president and owner of Loeb said he’s looking for a 3 percent Beauty was “buy two get two free.” apparel, the “stores had to offer 40 percent Miltons The Store for Men, which has two increase for the season, and that’s “with One beneficiary of the sudden cold off just to get people into the stores. Almost locations in Braintree and Chestnut Hill, fingers and toes crossed that this materi- freeze was Ugg, which saw promotions all specialty stores were running promo- Mass., characterized business so far this alizes. That would be at the upper end of remaining “in check,” Konik said. He said tions that were 40 percent to 50 percent year as “pretty good.” my expectations.” there was “solid traffic” around boots and off.” He noted that 50 percent off became “Super Saturday was not quite as super TechStyle Fashion Group — parent other seasonal product and, in the case of the “tipping point,” the discount that con- as we’d hoped because we got three to of the JustFab, ShoeDazzle, FabKids, Ugg, the “Classic II line continues to sell verted browsing to actual purchases. five inches of snow, but we made up a lot Fabletics, FL2 and P.S. by JustFab brands— at full-price at major department stores, “Typically for Black Friday, 50 percent of what we lost on Sunday — despite the reported a strong Saturday. New registra- whereas at this point in the season last off is almost always planned promotions. Patriots game,” he said. tions to its sites — which are built around year, they had already began taking 15 This past weekend, maybe a few were Katz added that while sales were strong, a membership model — were up 28 percent discounts on core styles.” planned promotions, but we had the “there was not as much of a sense of percent on Saturday compared with the Konik also noted that Lululemon Ath- feeling most were unplanned. The [retail- urgency since we still had six days to go. year-ago period, while orders from exist- letica was using rare promotions to drive ers] we saw that had 50 percent off were But Monday is off to a very good start and ing members across its portfolio of brands holiday traffic. Lululemon selectively promoting because they still had inventory all in all, it’s shaping up to be good.” rose 36 percent during the same period, e-mailed customers with gift cards for $25 overhang, mostly in outerwear and the Katz said Miltons had the best Black according to TechStyle’s corporate mar- off, with no minimum purchase, that are heavier sweater assortments….There’s still Friday in the company’s history, which keting officer Shawn Gold. The company’s valid through Jan. 29. “This is particularly a lot of goods out there and the good news dates to 1947. Fabletics brand, which also operates 18 noteworthy because Lululemon rarely is that if a store is offering 50 percent off, Mike Zack, owner of Circa 2000 in Plano, brick-and-mortar stores, saw same-store offers this type of discount,” the analyst the sales were quite robust,” Johnson said. said. He also added that the company Simeon A. Siegel, analyst at Instinet, said re-ran its offer for a $25 gift card on Apple the sales “have been deeper” and with the Pay orders of $150 or more. “The deal ini- crunch time over the next few days, it’s “Because promotions are deeper, the tially ran from Nov. 7 to 21” and is being likely even deeper cuts are ahead. re-run from Dec. 5 through today. “I would venture that because promo- management teams are not thinking this was Still, despite all the cited sales, Konik tions are deeper, the management teams concluded that holiday promotion are not thinking this was a successful hol- a successful holiday….What this shows is that at remained mostly in check. “In the final iday. They did everything they could that weeks before Christmas, store-wide was under their control. What this shows the end of the day, the control has shifted from promotional levels are generally flat to is that at the end of the day, the control up slightly versus last year, although we has shifted from retailer to consumer,” retailer to consumer.” believe inventory is generally cleaner this

ntonio G uillem A ntonio S hutterstock/ by P hotograph Siegel said. — Simeon A. Siegel, Instinet year,” he said. 10 december 20, 2016

eye Miuccia Prada Inaugurates Fondazione Prada Observatory

● The designer spoke at a new artworks from the sprawling headquarters space in Milan dedicated to of Fondazione Prada, which were unveiled last year in a complex covering 205,000 contemporary photography square feet in Largo Isarco, in the southern and visual arts. part of Milan and developed by OMA, led by Prada’s longtime architect, Rem Kool- By Luisa Zargani haas. Art that was not being shown at the main location could be seen as “inferior” MILAN — Miuccia Prada is discovering or somehow differentiated and she wished the world of photography — and true to to avoid that idea. her ongoing efforts to support artists, is Prada discussed the accessibility of offering this medium a new Fondazione photography and how anyone can “per- Prada space. sonally access digital platforms, share “This is a new entry for me,” said the images with the world” and emphasized designer with a smile, admitting her fresh the democratic and “not costly” approach take on photography. Prada was speaking to the medium. She also underscored the at a preview event on Monday to present a growing relevance of photography but said new exhibition space dedicated to contem- of her involvement, “It is determined by porary photography and visual arts called how much I am interested.” “Osservatorio [Observatory]” in shopping Asked if she thought there was perhaps arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, an overload of images and selfies on social officially slated to open to the public on media, she said: “The theme is complex, Dec. 21. This is an additional location for and you can’t disregard it.” Photography Fondazione Prada, housed on two floors in allows someone “to be open to everything.” a central building of the arcade above the Ever enthusiastic and passionate about central octagon. It stands at the level of the the foundation, which she established in glass and iron dome covering the 19th-cen- 1993 with her husband Patrizio Bertelli, tury venue. The restored space covers chief executive officer of the Prada Group, 8,640 square feet. she characterized her work with and on it Prada’s gaze wandered to the postcard as “very easy,” compared to delivering new view above Milan, and she expressed her fashion collections. Fashion design includes surprise at seeing “such a beautiful place.” an element of commerce, while the founda- Large windows allow the light, even on a tion is an end in itself, and “not to sell.” gloomy December day, to emphasize the Prada’s foundation has been helping to photos hanging on the walls on one side raise Milan’s standing in the arts and the alone of the Osservatorio, arranged in a designer confessed she felt she had “the continuum of images. sense of doing something useful. My ambi- The space opens with the exhibition tion has always been for culture to seem “Give Me Yesterday,” curated by Fran- interesting, not boring, but exciting. This cesco Zanot, which will run until March 12, energy may also come from my experience and comprises works from 14 Italian and in the fashion world.” international artists: Melanie Bonajo, Kenta Observatory is located above the Prada Cobayashi, Tomé Duarte, Irene Fenara, men’s wear store and the group’s Pas- Lebohang Kganye, Vendula Knopova, Leigh ticceria Marchesi 1824 that opened in Ledare, Wen Ling, Ryan McGinley, Izumi Francesco Zanot September. The restoration of the Galle- Miyazaki, Joanna Piotrowska, Greg Reyn- and Miuccia Prada ria, completed in 2015, was supported by olds, Antonio Rovaldi and Maurice van Es. Prada, together with Versace. The project, said Zanot, “explores the use The name of the space is aligned with thought of photography as an observatory Fondazione Prada’s Venetian outpost of photography as a personal diary from the Prada’s vision for it. “When we were onto the world from the top,” explained continues to operate in the 18th-century beginning of the year 2000 until today.” discussing what to do with this venue, we the designer. She did not want to remove palazzo Ca’ Corner della Regina.

about $580 million in wholesale sales. Bobbi Brown None of this is lost on Brown. “I am Ends a Chapter thankful for the extraordinary people that I’ve had the privilege to work with continued from page 1 over the years and proud of the creative endeavors and innovative products we’ve created together,” she stated, singling out to remain in the business world. the beauty group “and the Lauder family She certainly will not lack for ideas. Over for the many opportunities they gave me.” the years she has displayed an entrepre- Lauder acquired the brand in 1995, when neurial zeal, ranging from launching her it was not four years old and was in the own blog that promoted anything that process of redefining the makeup business caught her eye, including sunglasses, to a along with the iconoclastic MAC Cosmetics. gig with Yahoo and a makeup promotion William P. Lauder, executive chairman, that took place in the backseat of an Uber. said, “More than two decades ago, we Fabrizio Freda, president and chief execu- met an extremely creative makeup artist tive officer of Lauder, drew an entrepreneur- with a revolutionary idea that changed ial parallel between Brown and the compa- the way women feel about beauty. That ny’s founder, Estée Lauder. “The success of idea grew into a highly successful, global Bobbi Brown Cosmetics demonstrates that beauty brand.” Bobbi Brown P ix/ RE X/ S hutterstock C urtis/S tar by B rown orta; commitment” to entrepreneurship. “Today Lauder was referring to Brown’s the brand is sold in over 70 countries and breakthrough in promoting a natural Karen Grant, vice president and global artistry on the map. is a top makeup artist brand founded by beauty which enhanced a woman’s look, industry analyst in the NPD Group, Although a virtual title wave of young a woman. It’s a global prestige cosmetics rather than altered it. “She was one of the agreed, saying of Brown: “She was one of upstart makeup brands has put legacy powerhouse, with a highly promising future, pioneers,” said one market observer. The the pioneers of being able to use makeup labels under intense pressure during the poised for its next chapter of growth.” natural look that Brown pioneered in the products in different ways.” Grant also last year or two, makeup artistry remains He did not break out specifics, but accord- beginning of the Nineties still resonates in credited Brown with being one of the the best-selling category in color cosmet- rada photograph by U go D alla P by photograph rada

P ing to industry sources, the brand generates the brand’s “Be Who You Are” slogan. leaders who put the concept of makeup ics, according to sources. december 20, 2016 11

BEAUTY Alan Ennis Forms Strategic Start-up ● The Warburg Pincus-backed business, Glansaol, is on the hunt for other brands to add to its portfolio.

By Allison Collins with contributions from Pete Born

There’s a new player in the beauty market. Former Revlon chief executive officer Alan Ennis has started his latest venture, Glansaol, and he’s buying Clark’s Botani- cals, Julep and Laura Geller to do it. Indus- try sources estimate that combined, the three brands have $100 million in revenue. And there are more acquisitions on the way. Ennis quietly started Glansaol, best described as a strategic start-up, last year. Private equity firm Warburg Pincus is providing the capital that Ennis is using to make acquisitions with the aim of building Glansaol into a wide-ranging beauty platform. The concept provides another option to beauty entrepreneurs who may be looking to sell their businesses but are hesitant to take the traditional private equity or strategic buyer route. With Glansaol, founders sign employment contracts, Julep, Clark’s Botanicals invest their own money into Glansaol and and Laura Geller products. join Ennis’ leadership team. While each member remains responsible for his or greater expansion. high-pigmented makeup, in 1997. It has to add to the portfolio with an eye for her company, the idea is that the founders “It’s a brand that’s not really known in spent the last few years re-branding and differentiation. will do some behind-the-scenes collabo- the marketplace, although Francesco him- expanding under the ownership of private “I don’t have a number specifically of rating and that everyone has skin in the self is well known,” Ennis said. “We really equity firm Tengram Capital. how many brands, but it’s more than three collective game. feel that there is an opportunity to drive “They really helped with our re-brand and less than 10,” Ennis said, singling out “We would not do a deal unless the meaningful growth.” that we were overdue for,” Geller said. an emotional connection to the consumer founder owner was willing to invest at the For Julep, the future likely holds interna- Since Tengram’s 2012 investment, Laura as a key factor in terms of acquisition parent level,” Ennis said. “We are embark- tional expansion. Geller has doubled in size, according to targets. “Every brand that fits in our port- ing on a journey to build a company. We’re “It’s really about rocket fuel for the path Tengram partner Rich Gersten. Today, folio, there is a nucleus to it that makes it not buying a brand with a view of selling that we’re on,” Park said. Laura Geller is in 1,200 doors and on QVC different, and our view is that is absolutely it four years from now; we’re not buying When Park founded the brand in in the U.S. and Europe. sacrosanct,” Ennis said. a brand and integrating it into a huge big 2007, her four nail parlors served as a “We were successful in elevating the As Glansaol looks at other companies infrastructure of existing brands, we’re test lab for product feedback. Now, with brand image, look and feel,” Gersten said. to buy, they are looking for an innovation starting from zero.” a network of several hundred thousand “Glansaol will give the brand autonomy pipeline with a “superior quality product,” Glansaol has closed the deal for Laura Julep Mavens — loyal customers who buy and allow it to maintain its own identity.” including the packaging and overall expe- Geller, and expects to close the Clark’s monthly boxes of products and frequently For her part, Geller is looking forward to rience “so she buys it, she buys more of it, Botanicals and Julep transactions shortly. provide feedback — that test lab has working with other entrepreneurs, she said. and she talks about it online,” Ennis said. Those purchases add Laura Geller (the expanded substantially. “The idea behind [Ennis] bringing “It is that simple, [but] it’s hard to execute.” makeup artist and brand founder); Laura Julep has raised more than $70 million founder brands together in a portfolio Glansaol will look at primarily prestige Geller ceo Elana Drell-Szyfer; Julep founder in venture capital from of investors that and having founders sitting together and brands with anywhere from $5 million to and ceo Jane Park, and Clark’s Botanicals include Andreessen Horowitz and Jay Z. As strategizing and also being able to share $250 million in sales, Ennis said, adding founder Francesco Clark to the Glansaol of today, Julep is sold in 317 Ulta doors, 123 in…back office practices to streamline that in the current beauty M&A market leadership team. Ennis and Glansaol’s chief full-line Nordstrom doors (for holiday), 18 things…all of that could strengthen each Glansaol, operating with access to Warburg marketing officer Martine Williamson are Beauty Brands locations and the original of our brands even though we’re working Pincus’ latest fund, is prepared to be com- also on the leadership team. four Seattle parlors. independently,” Geller said. petitive on price. For the brands, joining Glansaol provides “It’s the best of both worlds for us,” “When you’re an independent beauty “I said, ‘I want to build a company,’ [War- the means to grow. said Park, when asked what she thought brand you can feel very alone….You’re burg] said. ‘Great, here’s a pot of money, “For me to say I started Clark’s Botanicals to being both a brand being acquired treading some deep waters,” Clark said. let’s go build it,’” Ennis said. with a business plan with an intention of and a brand making an investment. “We “There’s a part of forming a company “We identified [beauty] as an area of selling it would not be honest,” Clark said. see huge growth and upside and I really and running it that is lonely,” agreed Park. focus a couple of years ago and started “I truly did this to rediscover myself.” wanted a way to enable us to be success- “It’s like a start-up joining a start-up,” she looking at some assets in the space and Francesco Clark founded his skin-care ful, while also hanging on to a piece of the added, noting that what makes this deal dif- really, frankly, fell in love with beauty as a brand in 2008, after a spinal cord injury upside, which we think will be extraordi- ferent is “the opportunity to work together business model,” said Annette Rodriguez, landed him in a wheelchair with a host of nary,” she said. “Most beauty transactions with other beauty brands, and to work with managing director at Warburg Pincus, skin problems. His long recovery period don’t work that way.” people who have beauty expertise.” who oversees the firm’s North America caused him to become something of a Looking ahead, she predicted that in the Aside from financial success, Ennis’ consumer and retail operations. Warburg’s wallflower, forgoing mirrors altogether next stage of growth, Julep will move faster goal with Glansaol is to create a company previous investments include Neiman Mar- and shaving his head. But when his idol “through international relationships and with a collaborative corporate culture. cus, which then owned Laura Mercier. Christopher Reeve passed away, he real- expertise.” The brand has been expanding It’s a sentiment echoed in the meaning of “What was appealing to him was the ized he needed to make some changes. into Canada via the local shopping network the company’s name — Glansaol means opportunity to build a company and to do “I realized I wasn’t doing enough to be an and entered China with the Little Red Book “pure life” in Gaelic. “It goes back to the something entrepreneurial, but entrepre- advocate and to give other people a voice… Internet app — and will likely expand fur- culture,” Williamson said. “We want to neurial at scale,” Rodriguez said. “We’ve in order to have a voice you have to leave ther in China, as well as enter the U.K. and choose brands where we want to work established a line of equity behind Alan your house, you have to go out and interact Europe, Park said. with the people.” and Martine.” with people. You look in the mirror for the Laura Geller, too, expects added “A big part of why these people are sitting And while Ennis and Warburg have not first time in three years…I didn’t look like expansion. at the leadership table is because I want necessarily honed the long-term goals into myself,” Clark said. That’s when Clark’s “I felt like it was a natural evolution that sense of community at the corporate a specific plan, the most likely options Botanicals, with the help of his doctor for us to the next phase of growth to find level,” Ennis said. “It’s not going to be a are an initial public offering or sale to a family, was born. somebody who believed in the same team of corporate guys in suits coming in to strategic buyer. “I think it would be a very Today, the brand has 77 points of distri- vision,” Geller said. “The deep dive and review your monthly forecast.” attractive proposition to the public mar- bution, including some Space NK outposts, strategy will probably start right after the And Ennis and Williamson are on the kets to go with a growing, multichannel, and is on QVC. The new ownership should first of the year.” hunt for other brands that could fit within multisegment, multibrand portfolio — look allow Clark’s to bring products in its Geller, a makeup artist, formed her that ethos. The duo is looking for color at what E.l.f. has been able to accom- pipeline to the market, as well as prompt business, which specializes in baked, cosmetics, skin-care and hair-care brands plish,” Ennis said. 12 december 20, 2016

Bella Hadid Toasts Paper Magazine Cover Justine Skye performed two songs while the model sat on the ground to watch her.

Keke Palmer and Bella Hadid Andreja Pejic It was a Beyoncé and Rihanna response from the dozens of youth Fitzpatrick, director of business power hour inside the Gilded Lily waiting to be let in. There was a development at Paper, near the on Friday night. The crowd of twen- general feeling of disorganization, coat check. "She’s performed at a tysomethings parted only for the as people showed invites on their few Paper parties before, so she’s likes of Justine Skye, Keke Palmer phones, tossed around names Paper family." and Ty Hunter, his Ty-Lite lighting and caught the attention of those Sure enough, Skye took over the path, who were slowly making in charge. Hell, even a press invite the microphone around 11 p.m. their way to the back upper level couldn't guarantee you immediate to sing her latest single, "U Don't to greet the woman of the hour. entry. It seemed as though every- Know," as well as "I'm Yours." She Throughout the night, Bella Hadid one would have to wait in the cold, was repping the Roc Nation fami- would be seen dancing and singing dry air — at least for a little. ly, who was sponsoring the event along with her friends behind the Inside, Hadid was unreachable. by way of Tidal. "They’re a huge DJ booth, where she would even- Her hair in braids, she wore a partner of ours," Fitzpatrick said tually take her turn next to Nicole black asymmetrical crop top and of Jay Z's streaming service. Sky. But in order to witness the fun, black lace-up pants. Sparklers As Skye performed, Hadid you'd have to first get in. were being carried her way and took a seat on the ground near "You must be 21 and over," a there was a constant flow of peo- her. She stared up at her pur- bouncer yelled outside the venue ple trying to get next to her. ple-haired friend much like a child in the 20-degree weather. Sighs "Justine Skye is gonna sing watching her favorite cartoon. Justine Skye and "aw mans" could be heard in in a little bit," said Alexandra — Alexa Tietjen and Bella Hadid Katie Grand, Poppy Delevingne Host Love Christmas Party An exotic animal greeted guests including Lily Donaldson, Edie Campbell and Nicholas Kirkwood at the upbeat London event.

GOING NATIVITY: A real, live It's 7 feet tall and sat outside my camel called Kocoso, festooned front door waiting for me. I'm very in lights, gold lamé and pom-poms much a maximalist with Christ- greeted guests at the Love Mag- mas decorations; the more the azine Christmas party at George merrier. , lots of lights and Club in Mayfair, earning plenty of decorations," he said. "I've got a cuddles and starring in many a good selection of decorations that selfie as guests arrived for the I keep wrapped up in four Fortnum now-annual event. & Mason's hamper baskets. I will "We had a donkey two years go and buy some new ones but I ago and had two reindeer last like to build my collection. There's year, so we had to think about no theme; There's whales and what animal we hadn't had penguins, funny Murano glass already and it turns out penguins ones, really cheap and also really are very shy. So we got the camel expensive ones." and he's gorgeous," said Love The party turned into a bit editor in chief Katie Grand, in of a family occasion, as befits Prada, with her Chaos Fashion a Christmas party. Patsy Ken- Lily Donaldson "KG" monogrammed phone cover sit brought along son Lennon slung around her neck. on the DJ decks, playing tracks Gallagher, who recently made his "I'm actually terrified of Christ- including Riohv's "Green Room modeling debut in Love, shot by mas," Grand told WWD. "The Love 12" followed by Scratch Massive's Alasdair McLellan, who was also Calendar has become "Day Out of Days" soundtrack at the party. Elizabeth Saltzman this thing that we start in May "Turn Away," and "Girls Just came with son Harry Walker, and and now if we don't get 15 million Wanna Have Fun" by Chromatics. Ozwald Boateng was escorted by hits in a day we get disappointed. He was followed by Matty Bovan, daughter Emilia. It's massive." who favored Britney and Christina, Kocoso made his departure This year's Love Advent and Nathan Gregory Wilkins and before 11 p.m., but guests including campaign has seen the likes of Jarvis Cocker, who was taking his Lily Donaldson, Royal Ballet soloist Poppy Delevingne Edie Campbell Kim Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, turn with Steve Mackey — with lots Eric Underwood, Jade Parfitt, Edie Rita Ora, Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk, of 'Careless Whisper' which was Grand, who will be spending have a tree this year. Because of fun retro tracks like "Another Campbell, Rocco Ritchie, jeweler Chrissy Teigen and Taylor Hill 'Careless Whisker,' with lines like the holidays on the coast at we're spending Christmas with my One Bites The Dust," "Copaca- Dominic Jones, Lulu Kennedy, among others, starring in an array 'I'm never gonna hop again,' 'guilty Lamu in Kenya, cohosted the sister, Chloe, and she isn't doing bana" and The Sugarhill Gang's Bobby Abley, emerging designer of titillating films on the magazine's paws ain't got no rhythm,'" she party with Poppy Delevingne, who a tree. Instead of presents this "Rapper's Delight." Matthew Stone and Otis Ferry web site, thelovemagazine.co.uk. recalled. "You start these things wore a Burberry gown and told year, we're donating to Save The Deacon was planning to spend were among the guests who "The first Advent [film] we did and they seem quite innocent and WWD of her family's unorthodox Children; with the Syria Appeal Christmas in London and said he's eagerly partook of the canapés, was 'My Rabbit Cara' with Cara you watch the numbers get bigger Christmas plans. and everything that's going on, it of the more-is-more school when Moët & Chandon and Belvedere Delevingne. Victoria Beckham did and bigger and before you know it, "We like to play naked Twister," doesn't feel right to give presents." it comes to tree decorating. "I had Cosmopolitans on offer until long agazine photographs by C lint S paulding by aper M agazine photographs the voice-over, singing a version you're really ambitious with it." she said with a wink. "And we don't Giles Deacon had the first shift my tree delivered this morning. after midnight. — Julia Neel P RETAIL 20/20 THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE APRIL 25, 2017

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Fashion Scoops

din, Fayolle, International, Associés. From Kering Saint Laurent and Bergé commis- sioned French-Ukrainian artist Adolphe To Armani Mouron Cassandre to design the original Group has named logo in 1961. “Cassandre was the great- Federico Barbieri global retail director of est graphic designer of his era. The first direct-managed stores for all of its lines. thing that we did with Yves, before even Barbieri not only leads the group’s digital securing funds or collaborators, was channel but is also in charge of the whole to arrange a meeting with him. He had distributive chain. designed Dior’s emblem but was forgot- Previously a digital and e-business se- ten. In 1961, he showed us one proposal nior vice president at Kering Group, Bar- — the intertwined initials — and we knew bieri has a long experience in developing instantly that it was right,” Bergé said. retail strategies and in e-commerce, in For the graphic identity of the Musée particular. Concurrently, he was also Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, mean- Bottega Veneta’s worldwide business while, Studio Philippe Apeloig, which also and digital communication director. created the poster for the 2010 Saint The Italian manager has also worked in Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais, the U.K., the Netherlands, Finland and the went for an entirely new direction, the U.S. for companies such as Nike, Nokia foundation said. The aim there was to and Mandarina Duck, among others. reflect the modern architecture of the — SANDRA SALIBIAN Marrakech museum’s building — designed by French firm Studio KO — while referenc- ing artist Piet Mondrian and Moroccan craftsmanship, both strong influences Go Logo Sophia Amoruso pictured on Saint Laurent’s work. The shape of the The Fondation Pierre Bergé — Yves at the Nasty Gal store on main logo — a perfect square inclined at Saint Laurent has unveiled the graphic Melrose Avenue store. identities of the soon-to-open Yves Saint 45 degrees — recalls Mondrian’s painting Laurent museums in Paris and Marrake- “Victory Boogie Woogie,” while nodding to conference is scheduled for March 4 and of the ticket proceeds — 10 percent — will and playfulness. The company uses ch — two of which incorporate the original traditional Moroccan mosaics or ‘zelliges.’ is aimed at those interested in listening go to the Girlboss Foundation. Stratton Mountain, southern Vermont’s YSL logo in all its glory. The design, which features the YSL ini- to speakers talk on subjects such as The speaker roster includes a number highest peak with 97 trails and a lively The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris tials framed by the letters “m” (for Musée marketing, branding, career transitions, of entrepreneurs and names in the digital resort village that is popular with the New is due to open in the house’s historic and Marrakech) in a modernist Effra health and wellness and sexuality. There and finance spaces including Amoru- York crowd, as its home mountain. Ors- building on Avenue Marceau during Paris typeface, also evokes the Moorish door are also the more creative aspects of the so, actress Britt Robertson who plays den also has a New York office. But this Fashion Week in late September, with the of the nearby studio of French artist event, including an on-site photographer Amoruso on the upcoming Netflix series week the Segalls are in Utah at Alta Ski Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech set Jacques Majorelle, who created the gar- to help attendees with their LinkedIn pro- about the entrepreneur, Glossier founder Area for a photo shoot. They also hosted to open on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, near den that carries his name. Saint Laurent file pictures, beauty treatments, gift bags, and ceo Emily Weiss, comedian Whitney an après-ski event and pop-up shop the Jardin Majorelle, on Oct. 14. and Pierre Bergé bought the site in 1980, pop-up shops and an open door into the Cummings, Bumble founder and ceo Sunday at the Alta Peruvian Lodge. For the graphic identity of the Musee to save it from property developers and exclusive Girlboss Facebook group. Whitney Wolfe, Nasty Gal ceo Sheree In the next 12 months Orsden expects Yves Saint Laurent in the French capital, to bring it back to life. Following the death “When I wrote [the book] “#Girlboss” Waterson, True&Co. cofounder and ceo to sell 2,000 units of women’s and men’s Paris-based design agency Wolkoff & of Saint Laurent in 2008, Pierre Bergé nearly three years ago, I had no idea how Michelle Lam, L’Oréal vice president of ski jackets and 1,000 units of ski pants. Arnodin used the iconic YSL logo ± in chose to donate the Jardin Majorelle to necessary it would be,” wrote Amoruso digital innovation and entrepreneurship Some of the ski jackets’ performance both the interlaced and horizontal ver- the Fondation Pierre Bergé — Yves Saint on her Instagram post announcing the Rachel Weiss, Story founder Rachel features include five pockets, internal sions — as the central element, in a black Laurent. — KATYA FOREMAN conference. “The world has moved back- Shechtman and BBG Ventures president stretch cuffs with thumbholes, zippered and bronze 20th-century Garamond ward in 2016, putting even more pressure and managing partner Susan Lyne. underarm vents and an adjustable hood. typeface, bookended with the words on us to collaborate, co-conspire and — KARI HAMANAKA They are made of four-way stretch, “Musée” and “Paris.” As longstanding Be A Boss create a vision of the future together. waterproof, breathable materials to help collaborators of the house, cofounders Perhaps it was only a matter of time. That is exactly what we are doing one tiny keep wearers out on the slopes. Alexandre Wolkoff and Antoine Arnodin Sophia Amoruso’s #Girlboss brand step at a time, at @Girlboss.” Orsden is one of the latest additions began working with Yves Saint Laurent is set to expand its reach with the first Snowbound The post, from last week, was followed to the $1.88 billion snow sports outer- in 1975, then as part of the influential Girlboss Rally next year in Los Angeles. Snowmaking has given way to actual up the next day with a more ambiguous wear industry. The company’s founders branding agency MAFIA, or Maïmé Arno- The one-day networking event and snowfall, and skiers have a new label — announcement from Amoruso: “It’s Orsden — to test out on the slopes. pegged the average specialty shop The new graphic identity for official. I’m a masochist. Ding ding, round The direct-to-consumer perfor- retail margin as 47 percent, and said the the soon-to-open two!” The post came with a picture of mance-oriented outerwear was launched savings are passed along through their Yves Saint Laurent museums. what appears to be Amoruso’s #Girlboss by Sara Segall and her husband Steven, e-commerce model. Both the women’s business cards but it’s less clear what a former competitive collegiate skier “Lift” jacket and the men’s ”Slope” style precisely round two and the next phase at Colgate University. Shopping for retail for $330. Orson will start preselling for Amoruso entails. Nasty Gal, the digital high-performance, stylish ski jackets $200 ski pants later next month and they fashion brand she built from scratch two years ago, they were dismayed will officially be launched next ski season. beginning with an eBay business selling by the lack of options that retailed for The site also features interviews with vintage, filed for bankruptcy protection under $600 and started exploring how to Skiing Hall of Fame inductee Gretchen last month and is currently winding its launch their own company. In April, she Rous Besser, a Q&A with freeride skier way through the restructuring process. resigned from her day job in brand de- Claudia Aliaga, workout tips for slope- Pricing for the conference appears velopment at Revlon to focus on Orsden. ready strength and an Orsden’s Skier about in line with similar offerings, with Her husband and cofounder continues to Gift Guide. Readers will also find Ski early bird tickets on sale for $350. A work full-time as a strategic consultant. Layover information for Waterbury, Vt., $600 VIP ticket boasts an invitation to Pronounced “orse-den,” the name is Portland, Maine and Santiago, Chile — all the speaker cocktail hour along with derivative of the French term for snow useful info for this winter’s inevitable ex- special parking and access to the VIP bear, “ours de neige,” a mythical creature tended stays, due to inclement weather. lounge during the conference. A portion that is believed to combine toughness — Rosemary Feitelberg Memo Pad

for the two-hour show on Sunday Jan. 8 at tions for this red carpet show will bring hensive advertising packages.” Going Golden The Beverly Hilton. high quality live content and commentary “The Hollywood Foreign Press Associ- Twitter is fighting to regain its relevance It’s a deal that is squarely in Twitter’s to the masses through Twitter.” ation is always searching for innovative with style — red carpet style. sweet spot, as both attendees and fans Twitter is squaring off with the social ways and original tools to reach our audi- For the first time, the official Golden typically Tweet about red carpet events as media powerhouse Facebook, which has ence wherever it is as Hollywood comes Globe Awards red carpet pre-show will be they are watching on another screen. The been pushing its live-video capabilities together on one night to celebrate the best live-streamed on Twitter. This means that approach merges the red carpet action with ads about how to share live video in motion pictures and television — and United States viewers who are both logged into one screen, a mission that Twitter content on the platform and partner- Twitter is the recognized partner to help us lobes by D avid F isher/ RE X/ S hutterstock by eenan; G olden lobes in and logged out on Twitter can watch chief executive officer Jack Dorsey has ships with media outlets to encourage expand our audience,” said HFPA president — at goldenglobes.twitter.com, in Twitter repeatedly emphasized. sharing. Most recently, Facebook-owned Lorenzo Soria. Moments or @goldenglobes. The microblogging platform has Instagram followed suit by adding the In October, Twitter said that it would be The partnership with Dick Clark struggled to continue to build its user base, capability to live-stream video in Instagram shutting down the Vine app, which let us- Productions and the Hollywood Foreign although it still dominates as the place for Saoirse Ronan at Stories. That’s in addition to competition ers share short looping videos. In January, Press Association will blend traditional “what’s happening in the world right now.” the Golden Globes. from Google-owned YouTube, which has it will become something called Vine Cam- red carpet formatting, including attendee “Twitter is where the conversation live-streamed events ranging from sports era, which will let users share 6.5-second interviews, with Twitter content from ce- about the Golden Globes happens. operating officer Anthony Noto. “Our games to political debates. videos on Twitter, which is somewhat in the lebrities and fan questions sourced from Viewers Tweet along before, during and collaboration with The Hollywood Foreign As part of the live-stream, Twitter will vein of Snapchat and, more recently, Insta-

tefanie K S tefanie by A moruso photograph Twitter. The hosts are yet to be revealed after the award show,” said Twitter chief Press Association and Dick Clark Produc- also offer what is describes as “compre- gram Stories. — MAGHAN McDOWELL