Super Saturday Not So ‘Super’ ● Discounts Are Expected to Be Deeper in This Last Week Leading to the Christmas and Hanukkah Holiday Celebrations
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DAILY EDITION DECEMBER 20, 2016 1 All Women Photo Op Beauty Band Maria Grazia Chiuri chose Miuccia Prada talks about Former Revlon ceo Alan Brigitte Lacombe to shoot Fondazione Prada’s new Ennis has formed Glansaol to Dior’s spring ad campaign. photo “Observatory.” acquire small beauty brands. Page 7 Page 10 Page 11 Fashion. Beauty. Business. BUSINESS Super Saturday Not So ‘Super’ ● Discounts are expected to be deeper in this last week leading to the Christmas and Hanukkah holiday celebrations. BY VICKI M. YOUNG WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM JEAN E. PALMIERI, KARI HAMANAKA AND SHARON EDELSON Most retailers generally got what they wanted over Super Saturday weekend — a pickup in traffic and sales to help with the holiday selling season. But the weekend wasn’t quite the knockout retailers hoped for because of frigid weather and snow and ice storms in a lot of the country. Now the key question is whether the last-minute rush over the CONTINUED ON PAGE 9 BEAUTY Bobbi Brown Ends a Chapter ● The makeup artist will be leaving her namesake company, and Peter Lichtenthal will oversee the business in her stead. Sleep BY PETE BORN Bobbi Brown is turning the page on 25 years of her career by leaving her cosmet- ics brand. The owner of Bobbi Brown Cosmet- ics, Estée Lauder Companies Inc., said Monday that Brown will be leaving the company by the end of the year. Peter Lichtenthal, global brand president, will No More continue to oversee the business. These clothes aren’t just for bedtime. Taking cues from innerwear and Brown was not available for an interview loungewear classics, designers bring ease and elegance to all hours of the at press time, but she issued a statement that the celebration of brand’s 25th anniver- day and night. Here, M. Martin’s triacetate and polyester robe jacket worn sary was a milestone “that made me realize with Ji Oh’s wool and silk pants, along with Dogeared’s necklace. it was time to start a new chapter and move For more, see pages 4 and 5. on to new ventures,” she stated, without revealing what that new chapter may be. PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW JACOBS According to sources in the market, Brown, age 59, is expected to reveal her plans some time next year. Although sources say she has a non-compete clause in her Lauder contract, Brown is expected CONTINUED ON PAGE 10 An Advertising Opportunity Men’s Fashion Weeks Europe Men’s Fashion ISSUE: January 11 CLOSE: 12/28 · MATERIALS: 01/02 Paris/New York Men’s Fashion ISSUE: January 25 CLOSE: 01/11 · MATERIALS: 01/16 FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] DECEMBER 20, 2016 3 BUSINESS TOP 5 Tumi’s Jerome Griffith Gains TRENDING Support as Lands’ End CEO ON WWD.COM ● Wall Street has its fingers “Jerome is an exceptionally gifted New School’s Parsons School of Design. crossed that the new leader with an impressive track record On Friday, S&P cut its outlook on of spearheading growth and expansion Lands’ End’s debt to negative from executive steers the company at several iconic apparel and consumer stable, noting the company’s “ineffective in a more mass direction. goods companies,” Linden said. “Over the merchandising, disadvantageous retail course of his career, Jerome has demon- store positioning [nearly all physical BY EVAN CLARK AND KATYA FOREMAN strated a special talent for innovation in locations are within the struggling retailer design and functionality to attract new Sears], and management’s lack of ability Investors were keen to see former Tumi customers while upholding the quality, to leverage the company’s infrastructure Holdings chief executive officer Jerome value, service and products that current and expertise in the direct-to-consumer Griffith take the helm at Lands’ End, but customers love.” channel have weakened the company’s a hint of doubt remained since the staid Andrew Bove, a debt analyst at S&P competitive position, and will remain as company’s last luxe leader took the brand Global Ratings, said Lands’ End “kind of key issues that weigh on company perfor- too far up market. veered away from traditionally what their mance over the next 12 to 24 months.” Griffith will become ceo in March, suc- merchandise strategy was, they got into Sears bought Lands’ End in 2002 ceeding Joseph Boitano and James Gooch, more fashion-forward type of merchan- — before hedge fund honcho Edward who have served as co-interim ceo’s dise, which hasn’t resonated well with Lampert combined Sears with Kmart since September, when former Dolce & their core customer.” and the two ailing concepts fell into Gabbana executive Federica Marchionni The company has recently changed what has been a steep decline in a shift- left the company after just 19 months. She course and Bove said Griffith should con- ing market place. Tiffany & Co. was criticized after her efforts to bring out tinue to try to push the brand to a more Lands’ End was spun off in 2014, and Lands’ End chicer side fell flat. mass audience. still gets nearly 15 percent from retail Partners With Traders were betting that mistake “It’s too early to really tell what’s going revenues, mostly drawn through Sears wouldn’t be repeated and sent shares of to happen with this new ceo, it looks like shops-in-shop. NYPD on Branded the company up as much as 6.4 percent he’s coming over from more higher-end For the first nine months of the year, before the stock closed at $17.75, up 3.8 companies, so that’s something that wor- Lands’ End posted a loss of $15 million on a Barricades percent. ries me a little bit,” he said. 7.3 percent drop in sales, to $876.9 million. Josephine Linden, chairman of Lands’ Griffith was most recently ceo of Tumi Upon Griffith’s arrival, Boitano will Leading to End, said the company is counting on Holdings and prior to that held executive move to the roles of executive vice presi- Griffith’s “experience and tactical execu- positions at Esprit Holdings Ltd., Tommy dent and chief merchandising and design Flagship tion” to “improve financial performance Hilfiger, the J. Peterman Company and Gap officer. And Gooch will transition to exec- ● In the shadows of and build sustainable long-term value for Inc. Griffith is a member of the board of utive vice president and chief operating Trump Tower, stockholders.” Vince, Tom Tailor SE, Samsonite and The and financial officer and treasurer. Tiffany cleverly looks to salvage holiday-season sales hutterstock at its Fifth Avenue flagship. S X/ FASHION RE ix/ P ● Eric Trump Spotted at tar S Graydon Carter’s urtis/ C Natalie Massenet’s Career Waverly Inn ● rown by by rown Cosmopolitan Magazine B Removed From Plans Under the Spotlight Checkout Racks in hutterstock; hutterstock; S ● The Mail on Sunday Midwest Supermarkets X/ RE / published a speculative ● Unilever’s Living Proof WWD item that she is Acquisition Portends More “being considered for a Deals in 2017 paulding/ S possible role” at Farfetch.com. lint ● Pinterest Predicts: The C BY SAMANTHA CONTI AND Top Style Trends of 2017 NATALIE THEODOSI hiuri by hiuri by C razia razia G LONDON — First American Vogue, now Farfetch.com. The media just cannot get NEWSMAKERS adid and H enough of Natalie Massenet and what her next move might be following her abrupt This Week’s Most exit from Yoox Net-a-porter Group — Talked About Names Natalie Massenet hutterstock; hutterstock; especially since her one-year noncompete S In Our Industry X/ expired in September. RE / Over the weekend, the Mail on Sunday comes in the wake of chatter that Mass- veterans Adam Wilkie and Whitney BFA published a speculative item, quoting enet, who founded Net and who contin- Bromberg Hawkings. According to arrell/ unnamed sources, that Massenet is ues to serve as chairman of the British industry sources, Massenet is also in F “being considered for a possible role” Fashion Council, is taking Anna Wintour’s the process of raising money for her rada by by rada at Farfetch.com, the high-end retail place at Vogue. She denied those rumors own investment fund, with plans to take P platform, as it prepares for an initial in these pages in September. stakes in a variety of businesses. She has public offering. The paper theorized that Massenet’s near-term plans include declined to comment on the matter. it could be a consultancy or a non-execu- the following: She is understood to be In October, during a BFC event in Los hutterstock; hutterstock; Miuccia Prada Bella Hadid S X/ tive position. staying on — indefinitely — in her role Angeles, Massenet fielded questions RE José Neves, the founder and chief exec- at the British Fashion Council, although about her future and said the following: isher/ utive officer of Farfetch, said Monday both the BFC and Massenet have “I have two start-ups under my belt F that the company does not comment on declined to comment on her future at already, but I can’t reveal what they avid D rumors, and a spokesperson for Mass- the organization. She has also registered are yet.” She said she plans to make an enet also declined to comment. (Farfetch a new company, Imaginary Ventures, announcement “soon” about the nature has also repeatedly denied media specu- with Companies House in the U.K., and is of Imaginary Ventures, which she formed lation that it’s currently pursuing an IPO taking stakes in start-ups.