Riding with Kings, , India. 10 days plus options to stay on. 7 days riding. Introduction This is a ride through rural Rajasthan, a long way from India’s established tourist routes. We ride along sandy trails that thread their way between fields of millet, squash and -beans, crossing an agricultural environment that is little changed from the days of the and Mongol overlords. Camel carts are the transport of choice with ox waggons and donkeys making their contribution to the rural roads. Many crops are harvested by sickle, fields ploughed by bullocks, and the occasional small Massey, and crops stooked in the traditional way.

This is a rare opportunity to see India in a rural setting. And the fact that you’ll be travelling in the most traditional way, riding a Marwari Horse, bestows a very special status upon you: not only are you mounted, but you will be mounted on a prize example of a Marwari – well cared for, well fed and fantastically well mannered. When you ride through a village, heads will turn: riders from the West mounted on that the experienced, appraising eyes will acknowledge come from the top bloodlines.

The thing to emphasize about this ride is that the logistics are flexible and can be tailor-made to fit your itinerary, particularly if your party consists of four or more riders.

The Marwari Horse “science” of whorls is of interest, your host on this The Marwari horse stands between 14 hh and 17 hh ride is well-versed and happy to share his knowledge. depending on its geographical origin; stock from more fertile areas grow larger than their desert There is a stud book in India which was established in counterparts. Furthermore, foals now achieve larger the 2000’s: the breed isn’t new, agreeing to the proportions due to improved nutrition and better standard is! One of the results of having a breed parasite control but the average remains 15.2 hh to standard is that it is now prohibited to 16 hh. export Marwari. They wish to preserve and improve the breed within India. The Marwari comes in all colours including the boldly coloured Tack ‘ablacks’ (Piebalds or Skewbalds) The saddles are Indian cavalry “Sawar” particularly favoured in India. The saddles developed by the British cavalry in Marwari’s natural tendency to the mid 1700’s and still used by the Indian perform would make him cavalry today. They are designed with a particularly suitable for , high pommel allowing a good flow of air but dressage isn’t popular in India. along the horse’s spine which is particularly He is a tough, brave and beautiful important in India’s hot climate. They horse who has proven his ability to function (and feel) similar to a conventional adapt and thrive in most English saddle and are comfortable for environments. When you first set both horse and rider. Short chaps work well eyes on one you tend to think they with this tack and if you like to use a seat- look angular; not a bit of it! These are the marathon saver it’s a good idea to bring one. If you have a runners of the horse world; all sinew and lean particular favourite stirrup you can also bring these, muscle: remarkable stamina and they end the day as though stirrups are of course provided. The bits are fresh and keen as they begin it. snaffle bits.

They are particularly known for their ears! The classic lyre-shaped ear with the tips just touching.

There is a host of folklore about the whorls on the coat too: too much to go into here, but if the The tack on its overnight rack.

The Riding Itinerary Day 1. Day 5: Depart London and fly overnight to . Nawalgarh to Churiajitgarh and Nabipura Today we set out on trail. Ride through semi-desert Day 2 areas with small farms where the countryside is Arrival in Jaipur dotted with Khejri trees and ladies wearing brightly The flight arrives in Jaipur at dawn. Met upon arrival coloured saris work the land. En route we will stop and driven across Jaipur (35 mins) to the hotel for a picnic lunch and a long rest before riding on where your charming room awaits you for a through farmland to reach a small copse and freshen-up and change of clothes; it’ll be warmer waterhole. Many herds of Nilgai, the indigenous here than in the UK so it’ll be good to shower and antelope, and “blue bulls” (the mature males) may change into lighter clothing. be seen around camp.

Breakfast will be ready when you are, around 08:00 Whilst on the trail each night is spent in a tented and afterwards we’ll head off in a northerly camp but this is no ordinary camp: you will be direction towards the stable in a private coach. provided with blankets, quilts, pillows, a mattress Arrive in the small town of Nawalgarh before lunch: and a camp bed. The canvas “rooms” are large total driving time about 5 hrs (flexible according to enough to stand upright in. Grooms ride with the Indian road conditions). It was founded in 1737 by a team to feed and water the horses. warrior statesman whose name is enshrined in local history and folklore. The town exudes an old world Overnight in camp. charm and the colourful bazaar has the largest number of painted Havelis in the whole of Day 6: Shekhawati. Nabipura to Dabri to Fatehpur Beed. Set out in the morning riding through semi-desert A royal welcome greets the arrival at the Kothi towards Fatehpur Beed, which is best described as (“castle” – but it’s better described as equivalent to our SSSI’s (Site of Special Scientific a fortified manor house) lying just a kilometre from Interest). 300 years ago the Nawab (feudal lord) of the town. The kothi is a fascinating blend of Fatehpur mounted his Marwari and declared that all European and style of architecture with the land he could ride around between sunrise and lovely, spacious lawns, a billiard room and a sunset would be protected for posterity. Today swimming pool. Overnight at the Kothi Fatehpur Beed is an amazing 70 km² where indigenous plants thrive. Today’s picnic lunch is near Day 3 a typical Shekhawati water tank "Johda". While Nawalgarh trial ride. camping in Beed you should see desert fox, jackal, After breakfast we visit the stables where we meet nilgai and others. This protected area demonstrates the team. The owner of the stable will introduce that if human activity is restricted, a scrub-forest each rider to his/her horse and offer advice on how can thrive in arid conditions. We settle down for to ride a Marwari. You can then ride around the supper in camp near a ruined Haveli that overlooks paddock near the kothi to get the feel of your horse. the entire Beed. We enjoy a picnic lunch and afterwards ride outside the grounds to try out all the “gears” and see how Overnight in camp. you get along. If riders are not comfortable with the horse that has been selected for them, you are welcome to try another. Overnight at the Kothi

Day 4 Nawalgarh: 2nd trial ride and explore the town. Today we take a morning ride, with picnic breakfast, to explore the surrounding countryside, returning in the late morning in time for lunch at the kothi. In the afternoon you are free to enjoy the facilities at the kothi or jump into the Jeep and explore the town, with a guide. We’ll be able to visit a couple of the most splendid havelis and gain access to the roof terrace that gives an excellent “roof-scape” of the town. The Marwari, an Indian aristocrat.

Return to the kothi for dinner and overnight.

2 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

Day 7: If you can stay on, we recommend a fabulous family Fatehpur Beed to Ramgarh home in the centre of Jaipur, “The Pink City”. Today we ride north further into the Shekhawati heartland; the landscape becoming more arid. The Overnight Jaipur boutique hotel. sand-dunes are dotted with greenery where plants have found water and again we have the opportunity Day 11 (optional): to enjoy some long canters and maybe even a gallop! Today you take a private city tour of Jaipur which is a real gem: we don’t have a fixed itinerary for this visit Ramgarh is a small town with many painted havelis, but will interpret the preferences of the guests. and an interesting traditional market place. Some of the local highlights are: Overnight in camp. Amber Fort: about 30 mins north of the centre, like Day 8: something out of a fairy tale, the fort tops a hilltop Ramgarh to Mehansar Castle overlooking Maota Lake. It was the original home of Riding through high sand-dunes and desert villages, the Rajput (before Jaipur was built). It contains we reach the beautiful small village of Mehansar. stunning mirrored halls, gardens, and temples. The Mehansar Castle is a charming, family-run hotel with fort is reached by walking up the hill, going in a jeep, basic comforts but excellent home-cooked food and or riding an elephant. bags of character. City Palace: a huge complex of courtyards, gardens, The afternoon is free to rest from the rigors of the and buildings blend both Rajasthani and Mughal desert and the long rides and to venture up to the architecture. The Peacock Gate is exquisite, and top tower to see the spectacular views as the sun features bright peacocks. The royal family lives in the sets. graceful Chandra Mahal (Moon Palace) bordering the Overnight in Mehansar castle. courtyard. There is a museum, art gallery and interesting display of royal costumes and old Indian weapons.

Palace of the Winds: perhaps Jaipur’s most iconic site; but actually no more than an intricate and fascinating façade! Built in 1799, it has five floors that contain rows of small windows and screens with the wind blowing through, hence the name. However, the wind has now gone from the Palace of the Wind because most of the windows have been sealed shut. Legend has it that the palace, which overlooks the main street of the Old City, was built so that the women of the royal household could watch the streets below without being observed. Camping in Rajasthan – living like a king! Jantar Mantar Observatory: built between 1727 and Day 9: 1734 at the height of Jaipur’s power. The name Mehansar to Lalsinghpura return to Mehansar means "calculation instrument". More than just a Today we trek a circular trail with a picnic breakfast curious collection of sculptures, each one has a and return for lunch. We have one last ride in the specialized astronomical function. There are 14 late afternoon. structures which measure time, predict eclipses and Overnight Mehansar Castle. track stars. The most impressive one is the huge Samrat Yantra sundial. At a height of 90 feet (27 m) it Day 10: has a shadow that moves roughly the width of a Mehansar return to Jaipur person's hand every minute. It's a profound display After breakfast we make the return journey by of how quickly time does in fact fly! private coach to Jaipur (approx 5 hours). We have a packed lunch and stop for a picnic en route. The Monkey Temple: Getting to this rather ruined but riding itinerary ends mid-afternoon in Jaipur. holy Hindi temple, nestled in peaceful surroundings between two granite cliffs, is quite a mission but it's Suggested add-on: We can easily add a night’s worth the effort. The temple is part of a larger accommodation and a two-day extension to explore complex, which has three sacred pools of water. One Jaipur. Here are the details:- of the pools has been taken over by thousands of

3 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

monkeys that congregate there to swim and bathe. Sadly the area is not well maintained so be prepared to encounter dirt and trash, as well as priests and pseudo holy men coercing people to part with a few coins!

There are also some excellent shops to explore: Anokhi is famous for its high quality, block-print textiles; Kripal Singh Shekhawa is the potter who breathed life back in to the famous blue pottery of Jaipur in the 1930’s; The Gem Palace is the place to find jewellery; perhaps pick of the bunch is Hot Pink, which has an eclectic collection of household goods, The Bengal tiger, Ranthambore National Park fabrics and must-have goodies! Suggested flight schedule The flights we recommend leave London in the Overnight boutique hotel morning and arrive in Jaipur at dawn the next day. You could also fly in to Delhi and either take the train Day 12: (optional) to Jaipur or drive down. Please speak to us about Early transfer to the airport for the onward flight. alternative flight routes. The return flight leaves Jaipur in the early morning and arrives in London the same day. This is a daily service. All flights booked through Venture Co are financially protected via Venture Co’s ATOL licence number 5306.

Included in the ‘land only’ price Rider’s weight Meals: full board from breakfast on day 2 to lunch on 95 kg max. Riders over 95 Kg can be accommodated, day 10. please contact us. Road transfers as detailed in air conditioned car. The ride as detailed with horse, tack and groom. Ride safely Services of ride leader and camp master; English- You must wear a riding hat and appropriate foot speaking. wear. Gloves and half-chaps are recommended, but not everyone likes to wear them in warm climates. Not included The rule is, be comfortable and you’ll ride better. International flights Visa for India In summary Personal travel insurance  7 days riding Marwari horses Alcoholic drinks and soft drinks  3 nights staying in the kothi Tips  3 nights luxury glamping [There is no local payment]  2 nights Mehansar Castle. Travel insurance Price Please speak to Campbell Irvine Direct: Awaiting details for 2016 / ‘17 http://www.campbellirvinedirect.com/ventureco_ho Jaipur add-on (2 nights): £ me.htm £750 to £850 flight budget, depending on staying on (see below).

Staying on International flights can be changed, before the ticket is issue, free of charge. All our rides are tailor- made and can be “topped-and-tailed” with private We have our own hairdresser arrangements. Please talk to us for ideas, but here (horses … and riders!!) are a couple: Udaipur and the James Bond “Octopussy” Lake Palace hotel is nearby, if you fancy a treat; the Taj Mahal is about 4 hrs away and can easily be reached by train or private car; the Tiger Sanctuary of Ranthambore is 2 hrs away and holds India’s highest population of tigers of all India’s National Parks.

4 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

restored and the level of hospitality we are shown is At a glance outstanding throughout. The camping really is “glamping” the tents are huge, with cots and linen

The grade of the ride: [8/10] supplied; each one is carpeted. There are two camp showers within the ablution block and provision to novice ……………..… intemediate .………………. advanced heat water over a log fire, so that you can have a hot bush-shower each evening! There is a person to

clean your boots and the man who cuts patterns onto the horse’s quarters will also cut your hair, if Accommodation grading: [8/10] you wish! There is a separate kitchen tent and a mess tent for evening meals and breakfast. In the centre of camping…lodges & hotels…glamping...loads of character camp is a log fire which is where we gather each evening for sundowners and a chance to compare riders’ tales and sights we’ve seen. “Duke of Rider fitness required: [9/10] Edinburgh Ten Tors camping” it most certainly ain’t!

Rider fitness: you do need to be in shape; “riding fit” is the label we attach to this ride. Many of the rides Cultural immersion: [10/10] we do in other parts of the world allow you to arrive and get in shape during the ride; that is not the case here, your riding muscles need to be prepared for just like home …. surprises …… lots new ….. completely different what’s coming! Long da ys (up to 7 hrs in the saddle) and for multiple days in succession. You don’t need More about “At a glance” to be an athlete, but you will enjoy it much more if We grade this ride high in each category: it is a full you ride regularly for a couple of weeks before the immersion riding experience and you know from day ride. We do use a couple of support vehicles, one of one that you are not in England anymore! The which carries the picnic lunch to the mid-day rendez- horses, terrain, meals, language, customs, manners vous, and this means that if you wanted to sit out an and everything else, are all different! afternoon, one of the grooms could lead your horse, and you could ride in the jeep (it hasn’t happened Ride rating: we rate this riding experience 8 out of 10 yet, but the option exists!). because the horses are well-mannered but forward- going. They are very fit and love “making progress”. The tack is predominately English (with some variations) so you need to be well-seated, compared for example, to Western tack which is more forgiving. Some canters are 8 to 10 mins long and a dozen horses cantering together is exhilarating for competent riders, but could be scary for a novice. The trails are dusty and temps can top 30°C and higher so you will get sweaty and grimy – in the nicest possible way! Having said all that, it is also the most authentic, exhilarating and all-absorbing ride A passing camel-herder: horses and camels you could wish for. enjoy a mutual wariness of one-another.

Cultural Immersion: Venture Co prides itself on providing riding opportunities that take you directly into contact with the indigenous community. The guides, grooms, wranglers, camp staff, chef and his team and even the drivers, musicians and horse- hairdresser will all be eager to talk to you and show you their “normal”; their life and their world. They are proud of their heritage and flattered that you are travelling half way around the globe to learn all about it. This, surely, is the essence of travelling. The real pleasure for any horseman is to compare how Ready for a morning’s ride. we do things to how they do things. It’s not the devil

in the detail; it’s the delight in the detail that makes Accommodation: we grade this at 8 out of 10 too, this ride a ten-pointer. which may seem incongruous with the ride rating but the properties where we stay have been fantastically

5 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

Destination Background Rajasthan In the northwest corner of India, up against the Pakistan border, is India’s largest state, Rajasthan. The name means “land of kings” which reveals something of its heritage: this is the land of Rajputs, feudal barons who were responsible to the Maharaja of who held overall sway over Rajasthan. The Rajputs ruled their fiefdoms but owed allegiance to the Maharaja. Indian society remains multi-layered and the implications of the caste system are nuanced and subtle.

The Aravali Mountains run through Rajasthan and are a helpful landmark throughout this ride; they are 700 Km long and run in a north-easterly direction nearly reaching Delhi. The Luni River, which we follow on the ride, rises in the Aravali, though the water is subterranean for the majority of the year. These mountains are much older than the Himalaya, and unlike the Himalaya, they are no longer rising.

Rajasthan contains 4 iconic forts, Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, Chittorgarh Fort (which is the largest fort in Asia) the enigmatic façade of “Palace of the Winds” in Jaipur and the extensive fortifications that make up the Amber Fort just outside Jaipur. Rajasthan is an arid area which is thinly populated: as the ride progresses you will see many tiny villages and hamlets, well away from tarmac roads. There are tractors to plough fields, but most crops are still moved by ox- wagon and camel cart. The government has made great efforts to provide water stand-pipes and troughs to these farming communities which has had a significant impact on the lives of the women in particular (the traditional drawers of water). The unanticipated consequence is that many communities allow water and waste water to flow freely along village streets where it is able to seep into foundations, which is detrimental to many of the once-grand havelis.

An haveli is a merchant’s manor house. In the 18th and 19th C a great deal of trade passed through Rajasthan enabling the merchant castes to become wealthy. Consequently they built large houses constructed around a courtyard open to the elements, very comparable to the riads in Morocco. The havelis were richly decorated with paintings and frescos. Sadly, many have fallen into disrepair and India lacks a National Trust equivalent, so the future doesn’t look promising for most havelis. The few that are maintained and restored are truly glorious; testament to a lavish past.

What’s the weather going to be like? Rajasthan is a dry, semi-arid area that includes the which is sandy, with gravel / rocky outcrops in places. There is considerable subterranean water, but the riverbeds are dry most of the time. There is widespread agricultural activity and many drought-resistant crops are grown. There are trees such as the Neem and various Acacia species and wildlife such as Blue Bulls and Blackbuck which co-exist with the goat herds, camels and water buffalo.

Jaipur Climate Chart (Monthly Averages) Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec High Temperature (C) 21 24 31 36 41 39 36 34 34 34 29 23 Low Temperature (C) 7 9 14 20 26 28 27 26 24 18 11 8 Precipitation (mm) 23 18 13 8 13 74 180 173 117 10 3 10

6 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

The bit-exchange programme. It is heart-breaking to see some of the vicious bits that are used in India on horses, donkeys and mules; and we are seeking your help in relieving this needless suffering. A lack of education means that sharp, crude and roughly filed bits are an all too common sight throughout the countryside and at horse fairs.

You can help by sending us any redundant bits you may have lying about; by donating an old snaffle you can ensure that one horse, at least, will be relieved of discomfort.

All the bits we receive are given to a known and respected horseman in Rajasthan, a person we have been working with for more than a decade. In turn, he swaps the snaffle for the local “piece of wire” (or worse) so long as the recipient (horse trader, breeder, farmer or general horse owner) agrees to practice sympathetic horsemanship. In time, as the message circulates, suffering will be alleviated and replaced by a kinder way of communicating with horses.

Last year over 80 bits were exchanged in the Nawalgarh area. You can help by sending Venture Co any snaffles, Pelham’s, Kimble wicks in sizes 4 ½ inch to 5 ¼ inch to be exchanged at various Rajasthani events.

The Field Manual.

A detailed guide will be mailed to each rider with your booking confirmation. This booklet is packed full of relevant, up-to- date information including clothing lists, vaccination advice, money matters, suggestions about the level of fitness and emergency procedures.

Visa.

British passport holders require a visa for India which are obtainable electronically see www.indiavisasonline.gov.in

Donating bits at Nawalgarh.

Payment Schedule. If you decide to join this ride a deposit of £300 is due; the Booking Form is available on our website in the footer of each page. Email it back to us and the deposit can be paid by bank-to-bank transfer (free), cheque (free) or via payment card (Fee: 1.5% for credit cards and 1% for debit cards).

Eight weeks before you set off the balance is due to be paid to Venture Co.

Please note that the best airfares are instant purchase tickets, which are non-changeable and non-refundable. Once you are sure about your travel plans (do you wish to stay on in India after the ride or not?) you are best advised to secure your flights at the earliest opportunity. Late bookings may require a higher priced airfare, depending on airline availability. Call us for guidance.

7 www.ventureco-worldwide.com

Health Advice. For detailed information and advice see http://www.nomadtravel.co.uk and click on their “travel clinics” option. Vaccination requirements change periodically so we advise that you check with your nearest specialist travel clinic as soon as possible. In the South West we are fortunate to have “Travel Health Consultancy” in Exeter: www.travelhealthconsultancy.co.uk 01392 430 590. Travellers to India must have a Yellow Fever certificate.

Equipment Brief: A detailed clothing and equipment list will be provided in the Field Manual but to give you an indication, here is a summary:  Baggage -a holdall (55 to 75 litre capacity) suitable to be packed in a truck each day; a hold-all from Helle Hanson, North Face etc is ideal.  Clothing – tops made from natural fibres; and a wicking top during the ride.  Footwear – a leather soled jodhpur boot and short chaps. Sandals for evenings.  Sleeping Bag – is not required.  General - camping gear such as Possible changes torch, water-bottle, penknife, Although it is our intention to operate the itinerary as printed toiletries, sunscreens and insect above, it may be necessary to make some changes as a result of repellent. alterations to flight schedules, climatic conditions, limitations of infrastructure or other operational factors. As a consequence,  Camera - with spare batteries. the itinerary and overnight stops may vary from those outlined.

HAVE A GREAT RIDE!

VentureCo Worldwide 6 Okehampton Business Centre, Higher Stockley Mead, Okehampton, Devon EX20 1FJ 01837 55 907

[email protected]

www.ventureco-worldwide.com

Financial Security Venture Co Worldwide Ltd holds an Air Travel Organisers Licence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA); our ATOL number is 5306. All ventures and expeditions purchased “with flights” are ATOL protected by the CAA which means that your financial security is assured when

you join us. “Ride Only” bookings are protected by Venture Co’s Client Trust account.

Detail of a pack-saddle

8 www.ventureco-worldwide.com