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Overview of Different Leathers & Their Care

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Overview of Different Leathers & Their Care Tutorial Shoe Care Guide Updated April 2014 Overview of Different Leathers & Their Care The first step to proper shoe care is the identification of the material the shoe is made from. Different materials require different care routines. What is appropriate for a pair of one pair of shoes could damage another. The purpose of this guide is to help you identify the material from which your shoes are constructed and then provide a brief summary of the proper shoe care products. HangerProject.com 1 Tutorial Shoe Care Guide • 2014 Smooth Calfskin Shoe Care The majority of dress shoes are crafted from various qualities of smooth calfskin. Less expensive calfskin is highly treated and can almost appear synthetic. Because the leather retains few of it’s natural properties, it does not require much special care. The finest calfskin shoes, however, can be crafted by a fine shoemaker into beautiful works of art. The natural leather requires proper care in order to prevent drying and cracking. It is essential that the leather be fed with high-quality, natural nutrients. With proper shoe care, a pair of fine leather shoes look better with age and remain soft and supple for decades. To Clean: Saphir Reno’Mat, Saphir Leather Cleaning Soap To Condition: Saphir Renovateur, Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish To Polish: Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish, Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish Deep Conditioning: Saphir Dubbin Graisse Recoloring: Saphir Juvacuir Recoloring Repair Cream Protection: Saphir Super Invulner for waterproofing or just the waxes from normal cream and wax polishes Additional Resources: Getting Started with Saphir Basic Shoe Care Guide Presidential Shoe Shine Guide Daily Shoe Care for Calfskin High Gloss vs. Matte Patina Pebble Grain Calfskin Shoe Care Pebble grain calfskin is pressed or embossed in order to create a textured, grain pattern in the leather. Pebble grain leather is regarded as less formal than smooth calfskin. The texture of the grain requires light polish in order to prevent wax buildup inside the grooves of the grain, which can leave an unattractive white residue, especially when exposed to water (easily removed with leather cleaning soap or Reno’Mat). To Clean: Saphir Reno’Mat, Saphir Leather Cleaning Soap* To Condition: Saphir Renovateur**, Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish** To Polish: Saphir Pommadier Cream Polish** Recoloring: Saphir Juvacuir Protection: Saphir Super Invulner (more for waterproofing) *In order to prevent any buildup of soap in the grooves of the pebble grain leather, it is important to thoroughly rinse the shoe after shampooing it with the Saphir Leather Cleaning Soap. Simply wipe down with a wet washcloth or lightly rinse under a water faucet. **To prevent any buildup of wax in the grooves, apply only a light coat of Medaille d’Or products and buff off with a pig hair shoeshine brush (stiffer bristle than horsehair) before the product completely dries. This will ensure that any excess wax is completely buffed out. HangerProject.com 2 Tutorial Shoe Care Guide • 2014 Nappa Shoe Care Nappa leather is similar to smooth calfskin but from goat. It is an incredibly delicate, soft material and is never waxed. Nappa demands special attention when cleaning to prevent damage to the skin. Saphir has developed a special product especially for the care of Nappa that contains almost no waxes, which would ruin its delicate character. Nappa is very porous. One way to test if leather is nappa is to place a wet finger directly on the leather; if the leather quickly absorbs the leather and produces a water stain, then the leather is nappa. Nappa is not often used for shoes because it’s such a fragile skin. To Clean: Nappa Leather Balm To Condition: Nappa Leather Balm To Protect: Super Invulner Because of the delicate, porous nature of Nappa leather and because it is never waxed, it is particularly important to protect the leather with Saphir Super Invulner. Because the leather does not have the benefit of a protective wax finish, you need the Super Invulner protection to prevent water and other substances from being absorbed into and staining the leather. Suede Shoe Care Suede is the reverse side of smooth calfskin. It is a fantastic and often under-appreciated material for shoes. Suede is perfect for more casual shoes and boots, is durable, does not scuff, and easily cleaned with the proper cleaning products. When cared for correctly, a fine pair of suede shoes can last years. Integral to the proper care of suede shoes is the regular brushing of the nap using a suede brush. Just like vacuuming carpet, a suede brush helps remove any embedded dirt and keeps the nape fluffy. To Clean: Nappa Leather Balm To Condition: Nappa Leather Balm To Protect: Super Invulner Additional Resources: How to Clean Suede Shoes Nubuck Shoe Care Nubuck is similar to suede but features a much finer texture. It is created by sanding the smooth side of calfskin to produce a very fine, suede-like texture. It is much more delicate than suede. Because of the delicate nature of the nap, a suede brush with their stiff bristles will actually damage nubuck. Instead a Crepe Brush should be used for brushing. In addition, it is particularly important to protect with the Saphir Super Invulner. To Clean: Saphir Omni’Nettoyant Suede Shampoo, Crepe Brush To Condition: Saphir Renovating Spray To Protect: Super Invulner HangerProject.com 3 Tutorial Shoe Care Guide • 2014 Crocodile and Alligator Shoe Care Crocodile and Alligator are two of the most expensive materials used to make shoes. The smaller the scales of the crocodile and the fewer pieces used, the more expensive the shoe. Because these animals live in water, these skins are not very porous and are prone to drying, which will cause the skin to crack. A well cared for pair of crocodile shoes can last decades (as illustrated by the pair pictured, which I inherited from my grandfather). It is essential, though, to keep the skin fed with essential nutrients in order to prevent drying and cracking. For this, there is the Saphir Reptan Reptile Conditioner. The Reptile Conditioner does not contain as much wax as an ordinary polish. It requires a few coats in order to produce a “polish.” If you desire a higher-gloss polish, a light application of Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish can be applied to the toe box. To Clean: Saphir Reptan for light cleaning; Saphir Leather Cleaning Soap if very soiled To Condition: Saphir Reptan To Protect: Saphir Reptan or light Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish* *Multiple coats of the Reptan may be required to produce a high-gloss finish. If after three coats of the Reptan, a higher gloss polish is still desired, apply a thin layer of Saphir Pate de Lux neutral wax polish and buff with a chamois. Additional Resources: How to Polish Crocodile Shoes Lizard and Snake Skin Shoe Care Lizard and Snake are most commonly used for cowboy boots than leather dress shoes. These exotic skins are incredibly unique and require special care. The Reptan Reptile Milk is a total care solution that can be used to clean, condition, and polish these skins. To Clean: Saphir Reptan for light cleaning; Saphir Leather Cleaning Soap if very soiled To Condition: Saphir Reptan To Protect: Saphir Reptan or light Saphir Pate de Luxe Wax Polish* Ostrich Leather Ostrich Leather is another exotic skin used primarily for cowboy boots. Leather from the leg of the ostrich is what is most commonly used. Because Ostrich leather is normally unwaxed, the Nappa Balm is the best total care product to use. To Clean: Nappa Leather Balm or Leather Cleaning Soap (if soiled) To Condition: Nappa Leather Balm To Protect: Super Invulner HangerProject.com 4 Tutorial Shoe Care Guide • 2014 Shell Cordovan Shoe Care Cordovan leather is obtained from horses imported from Cordoba in the United States and crossed with wild horses of the Dakota. Only the 20 to 22 inches of the back quarters are used (the “shells”). One of the unique properties of cordovan leather is a very compressed pour and fiber structure. At the end of tanning, glass bottles are actually used to further compress the leather fibers. The result is a very strong, weather- resistant leather that yields patina which makes cordovan almost instantly recognizable. It is very important in the care of cordovan that the fibers are not allowed to expand. Shoe polishes containing solvents, such as those designed for smooth leather, can penetrate into the pores of cordovan and cause them to expand, thereby diminishing this unique characteristic to the leather. Saphir’s CORDOVAN leather cream is a formula with bees wax, a high concentration of pigments and neatsfoot oil to penetrate deep into the leather and to keep it very smooth but without expanding pores. To Clean: Nappa Leather Balm or Leather Cleaning Soap (if soiled) To Condition: Nappa Leather Balm To Protect: Super Invulner Polishing Accessories: Deer Polishing Bone, Sleeking Bone Additional Resources: How to Polish Cordovan Shoes Oiled Calfskin, Horween Chromexcel Oiled Calfskin, or Chromexcel as called by Horween, is thicker and heavier than other types of leather. It is best known for it’s rugged, natural look and is commonly a dark brown or reddish-brown. Oiled calfskin is most often used for hiking and mountain boots and boat shoes. Oiled leather is infused with proprietary blends of natural oils and greases at the end of the tanning process. The leather is thicker and heavier than smooth calfskin and much more durable. Scuffs and scratches can normally be restored by massaging the oils around in the leather. To identify if you have oiled leather, stretch the leather from inside the shoe with your knuckle.
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