UNDERNEATH IT ALL SENDING DEREK JETER DODGED RELIEF CONTROVERSY AND TALKED THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS STRONG START BRIEFS AT A FRIGO OPENING. HELPING TO DRUM UP AID FOR PAGE 11 VINCE’S STOCK SURGED AFTER ITS IPO, TYPHOON HAIYAN VICTIMS. PAGE 8 VALUING THE COMPANY AT $1 BILLION. PAGE 2 WWDMONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY FASHION AND THE MAYOR The Bloomberg Effect By DAVID LIPKE LAST WEDNESDAY MORNING, a small clique of New York’s reigning power players gathered in the Meatpacking District offi ces of Diane von Furstenberg for the type of breakfast meeting that shapes cities, literally and fi guratively. Terry J. Lundgren of Macy’s and Lew Frankfort of Coach were there, along with Andrew Rosen of Theory, Vera Wang, Anna Wintour, Hearst Magazine’s Michael Clinton and the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Steven Kolb. Presiding over the elegant conclave was New York’s head macher-in-charge — at least for the next 37 days, Mayor Michael Bloomberg. He had brought along his cultural affairs commissioner, Kate Levin, as well as Daniel Doctoroff, chief executive offi cer of Bloomberg LP. The high-powered powwow was engineered to discuss plans — and build support — for the Culture Shed, the ballyhooed arts center meant to become the new home of New York Fashion Week once it’s completed around 2017. The striking structure will serve as an anchor of the ambitious Hudson Yards development on the West Side of Manhattan, current- ly under construction and set to become a marquee capstone of Bloomberg’s 12-year tenure at City Hall, which comes to a close next month. SEE PAGE 4 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER 2 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 WWD.COM Forum Begins Profiling Talks THE BRIEFING BOX community leaders. By LISA LOCKWOOD “We commend the leadership role by the Retail IN TODAy’s WWD Council of New York State and the New York NEW YORK — Several dozen retailers, city offi- Metropolitan Retailing Association in steering the cials and civil rights leaders convened at The Fifth discussions to move forward and emerge collective- Avenue Presbyterian Church here Friday morning ly with agreed-upon actionable plans. Macy’s looks to start a dialogue about racial profiling and loss forward to being an active participant in the ongo- prevention at stores. ing discussions so that we mutually identify and Among the retailers that sent representatives adopt best practices for the industry while main- were Barneys New York, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, taining a pleasant shopping experience for all cus- Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, tomers,” according to Macy’s. image in PAGE TWO folder to be scanned Nordstrom and Gap Inc. National Action Network’s Foy termed the meet- - from the AMNH gala - Rev. Al Sharpton; Scott M. Stringer, Manhattan ing, which was closed to the press, “productive, Borough president; Marc H. Morial, chief executive honest and candid.” Lydia Fenet officer of the National Urban League; Alphonso “It’s just the start of a dialogue, and we’re form- PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER David, deputy secretary for civil rights for Governor ing a task force which will be charged with work- Andrew Cuomo; Donna Lieberman, executive di- ing on industry-wide policies and standards,” said ICHNER E rector of the New York Civil Liberties Union; Hazel Foy. The task force is set to have its first meeting on Dukes, president of the NAACP New York State Monday. “There are things retailers can do to fur- Lydia Fenet at the Conference, and Kirsten John Foy, president of the ther engage the communities of color, which their STEVE American Museum of BY Brooklyn chapter of the National Action Network, customer base is about,” he said. He noted that Natural History gala. also participated in the forum. there were about a dozen retailers in attendance PHOTO Organized by the Retail Council of New York State and “everyone acknowledged there are issues that and the New York Metropolitan Retailing Association, have to be dealt with, sooner, rather than later.” the meeting was a result of recent allegations of racial The NYCLU’s Lieberman added: “It was good As Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s time in office winds down, he profiling against Macy’s and Barneys. These “shop and to have the retailers and civil rights leaders sitting talks about the important role the fashion industry has played in frisk” incidents have led to an investigation by New around the table together with a shared commit- New York’s vitality. PAGE 1 York Attorney General Eric T. Schneiderman, and ment to figure out how to really put an end to racial lawsuits filed against Macy’s, Barneys, the city and the profiling. There’s hard work to do. The missing link The fashion industry is stepping up efforts to aid victims of New York Police Department. is the New York Police Department. They’re miss- Typhoon Haiyan in the Philippines. PAGE 8 Mark Lee, ceo of Barneys, attended the meet- ing in action.” She added that the task force will ing with Marc Perlowitz, general counsel; Tony set its agenda and start to move forward, but she is Mauro, executive vice president, store operations, concerned about how forthcoming the retailers will New shoes, novelty styles and appealing store sets overall and Charlotte Blechman, executive vice presi- be about their relationship with the NYPD. — powered Ann Inc. through a strong third quarter and has dent, marketing and communications. The Macy’s “This is an important time for business in our raised prospects for healthy holiday gains. PAGE 8 team consisted of John Harper, president of stores; city,” said Stringer upon arrival at the meeting. Edward Jay Goldberg, senior vice president of gov- “We want people of all backgrounds to come into Italian Luxury brand Moncler SpA received the green ernment and consumer affairs; Bill Hawthorne, se- our retail stores and have a very positive experi- light from the Italian Stock Exchange to move forward with nior vice president of diversity strategies and legal ence. This [the meeting] is not about a dog and pony its public listing. PAGE 9 affairs, and two other public affairs executives. Two show. It’s about creating a real dialogue.” vice presidents of loss prevention attended from Sanford Moore, a community activist, said, during The U.S. and Bangladesh are set to sign a Trade and Neiman Marcus Group, and two senior vice presi- the meeting they decided to create various committees Investment Cooperation Forum Agreement today said to aid dents from Hudson’s Bay Co., representing Saks such as those for community reinvestment and econom- the countries in trade and investment discussions. PAGE 9 and Lord & Taylor, one over stores and the other ic development; improving protocols for racial profil- over asset protection and operations, attended. ing, and security training. He questioned during the Investments in technology and stores lifted Belk Inc.’s According to a statement from Macy’s, “We were meeting why pension funds purchase shares in com- third-quarter sales while chipping away at its profits. PAGE 9 very happy to have had a seat and voice at today’s panies that are inhospitable to black citizens. “Scott Vince IPO Raises $200M meeting. It was an important step in openly and Stringer said he wanted to explore that,” said Moore. Public offering documents for Time Inc. didn’t provide a honestly discussing loss prevention in the industry “I must commend Rev. Sharpton. He’s trying to valuation for the publisher or a timing of its spin-off from Time and policies for retail establishments, large and take a constructive yet critical approach. If they Warner, but did reveal salaries of key executives. PAGE 9 small. The forum accomplished its goal of bringing don’t do the right thing, he may take another ap- together many key players in the retail community proach. I think something positive will come out of to the table, and starting a healthy dialogue with it,” said Moore. Naomie Harris divulged details of “Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom,” and what it was like to play the character of Nelson Mandela’s wife Winnie. PAGE 10 Pierre Cardin plans to mark the 60th anniversary of his first fashion show by parading a high-fashion collection at Vince IPO Raises $200M Maxim’s on Tuesday. PAGE 11 expected range kept rising, first to By VICKI M. YOung $24 to $26, and then to between $28 Pirelli provided a jolt of glamour and star power to Milan and $30. When the range finally as it presented its calendar for 2014. PAGE 12 IDER H NEW YORK — Vince is now a $1 narrowed to between $29 and $30, EN B billion brand. excitement began to rise among Vince shares closed Destination XL Group Inc. reported a broader loss for That is the valuation the stock the Vince management team as at $28.66 on Friday. BY the third quarter, but saw strong response to its growing market gave the contemporary NYSE officials said the shares HOTO fleet of DXL big and tall superstores. PAGE 12 brand Friday as it became the were getting close to their debut. p first U.S. apparel firm to go public That drew a thumbs-up from Vince nail biter,” Granoff said. ON WWD.COM since Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. chief executive officer Jill Granoff. Now the task is to build out in December 2011. Vince’s initial Granoff said afterward that Vince’s business. According to public offering raised $200 million. the shares priced at $20 because Granoff, the vision to optimize EYE: Karlie Kloss and SNL veterans Tina Fey and Seth The brand late Thursday of significant interest in the stock growth for Vince across each Meyers were among attendees at the American Museum of night priced 10 million shares from investors during the just- channel of distribution includes Natural History gala.