UNDERNEATH IT ALL SENDING DEREK JETER DODGED RELIEF CONTROVERSY AND TALKED THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS STRONG START BRIEFS AT A FRIGO OPENING. HELPING TO DRUM UP AID FOR PAGE 11 VINCE’S STOCK SURGED AFTER ITS IPO, TYPHOON HAIYAN VICTIMS. PAGE 8 VALUING THE COMPANY AT $1 BILLION. PAGE 2

WWDMONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

FASHION AND THE MAYOR The Bloomberg Effect By DAVID LIPKE

LAST WEDNESDAY MORNING, a small clique of New York’s reigning power players gathered in the Meatpacking District offi ces of Diane von Furstenberg for the type of breakfast meeting that shapes cities, literally and fi guratively. Terry J. Lundgren of Macy’s and Lew Frankfort of Coach were there, along with Andrew Rosen of Theory, Vera Wang, Anna Wintour, Hearst Magazine’s Michael Clinton and the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Steven Kolb. Presiding over the elegant conclave was New York’s head macher-in-charge — at least for the next 37 days, Mayor Michael Bloomberg. He had brought along his cultural affairs commissioner, Kate Levin, as well as Daniel Doctoroff, chief executive offi cer of Bloomberg LP. The high-powered powwow was engineered to discuss plans — and build support — for the Culture Shed, the ballyhooed arts center meant to become the new home of New York Fashion Week once it’s completed around 2017. The striking structure will serve as an anchor of the ambitious Hudson Yards development on the West Side of Manhattan, current- ly under construction and set to become a marquee capstone of Bloomberg’s 12-year tenure at City Hall, which comes to a close next month. SEE PAGE 4

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER 2 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 WWD.COM Forum Begins Profiling Talks the Briefing Box community leaders. By Lisa Lockwood “We commend the leadership role by the Retail in Today’s WWD Council of New York State and the New York NEW YORK — Several dozen retailers, city offi- Metropolitan Retailing Association in steering the cials and civil rights leaders convened at The Fifth discussions to move forward and emerge collective- Avenue Presbyterian Church here Friday morning ly with agreed-upon actionable plans. Macy’s looks to start a dialogue about racial profiling and loss forward to being an active participant in the ongo- prevention at stores. ing discussions so that we mutually identify and Among the retailers that sent representatives adopt best practices for the industry while main- were Barneys New York, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, taining a pleasant shopping experience for all cus- Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, tomers,” according to Macy’s. image in PAGE TWO folder to be scanned Nordstrom and Gap Inc. National Action Network’s Foy termed the meet- - from the AMNH gala - Rev. Al Sharpton; Scott M. Stringer, Manhattan ing, which was closed to the press, “productive, Borough president; Marc H. Morial, chief executive honest and candid.” Lydia Fenet officer of the National Urban League; Alphonso “It’s just the start of a dialogue, and we’re form- Photo by Steve Eichner David, deputy secretary for civil rights for Governor ing a task force which will be charged with work- Andrew Cuomo; Donna Lieberman, executive di- ing on industry-wide policies and standards,” said ichner E rector of the New York Civil Liberties Union; Hazel Foy. The task force is set to have its first meeting on Dukes, president of the NAACP New York State Monday. “There are things retailers can do to fur- Lydia Fenet at the Conference, and Kirsten John Foy, president of the ther engage the communities of color, which their Steve

American Museum of by Brooklyn chapter of the National Action Network, customer base is about,” he said. He noted that Natural History gala. also participated in the forum. there were about a dozen retailers in attendance Photo Organized by the Retail Council of New York State and “everyone acknowledged there are issues that and the New York Metropolitan Retailing Association, have to be dealt with, sooner, rather than later.” the meeting was a result of recent allegations of racial The NYCLU’s Lieberman added: “It was good As Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s time in office winds down, he profiling against Macy’s and Barneys. These “shop and to have the retailers and civil rights leaders sitting talks about the important role the fashion industry has played in frisk” incidents have led to an investigation by New around the table together with a shared commit- New York’s vitality. PAGE 1 York Attorney General Eric T. Schneiderman, and ment to figure out how to really put an end to racial lawsuits filed against Macy’s, Barneys, the city and the profiling. There’s hard work to do. The missing link The fashion industry is stepping up efforts to aid victims of New York Police Department. is the New York Police Department. They’re miss- Typhoon Haiyan in the Philippines. PAGE 8 Mark Lee, ceo of Barneys, attended the meet- ing in action.” She added that the task force will

ing with Marc Perlowitz, general counsel; Tony set its agenda and start to move forward, but she is Mauro, executive vice president, store operations, concerned about how forthcoming the retailers will New shoes, novelty styles and appealing store sets overall and Charlotte Blechman, executive vice presi- be about their relationship with the NYPD. — powered Ann Inc. through a strong third quarter and has dent, marketing and communications. The Macy’s “This is an important time for business in our raised prospects for healthy holiday gains. PAGE 8 team consisted of John Harper, president of stores; city,” said Stringer upon arrival at the meeting. Edward Jay Goldberg, senior vice president of gov- “We want people of all backgrounds to come into Italian Luxury brand Moncler SpA received the green ernment and consumer affairs; Bill Hawthorne, se- our retail stores and have a very positive experi- light from the Italian Stock Exchange to move forward with nior vice president of diversity strategies and legal ence. This [the meeting] is not about a dog and pony its public listing. PAGE 9 affairs, and two other public affairs executives. Two show. It’s about creating a real dialogue.” vice presidents of loss prevention attended from Sanford Moore, a community activist, said, during The U.S. and Bangladesh are set to sign a Trade and Neiman Marcus Group, and two senior vice presi- the meeting they decided to create various committees Investment Cooperation Forum Agreement today said to aid dents from Hudson’s Bay Co., representing Saks such as those for community reinvestment and econom- the countries in trade and investment discussions. PAGE 9 and Lord & Taylor, one over stores and the other ic development; improving protocols for racial profil- over asset protection and operations, attended. ing, and security training. He questioned during the Investments in technology and stores lifted Belk Inc.’s According to a statement from Macy’s, “We were meeting why pension funds purchase shares in com- third-quarter sales while chipping away at its profits. PAGE 9 very happy to have had a seat and voice at today’s panies that are inhospitable to black citizens. “Scott Vince IPO Raises $200M meeting. It was an important step in openly and Stringer said he wanted to explore that,” said Moore. Public offering documents for Time Inc. didn’t provide a honestly discussing loss prevention in the industry “I must commend Rev. Sharpton. He’s trying to valuation for the publisher or a timing of its spin-off from Time and policies for retail establishments, large and take a constructive yet critical approach. If they Warner, but did reveal salaries of key executives. PAGE 9 small. The forum accomplished its goal of bringing don’t do the right thing, he may take another ap-

together many key players in the retail community proach. I think something positive will come out of to the table, and starting a healthy dialogue with it,” said Moore. Naomie Harris divulged details of “Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom,” and what it was like to play the character of Nelson Mandela’s wife Winnie. PAGE 10

Pierre Cardin plans to mark the 60th anniversary of his first fashion show by parading a high-fashion collection at Vince IPO Raises $200M Maxim’s on Tuesday. PAGE 11 expected range kept rising, first to By Vicki M. Young $24 to $26, and then to between $28 Pirelli provided a jolt of glamour and star power to Milan and $30. When the range finally as it presented its calendar for 2014. PAGE 12 ider H NEW YORK — Vince is now a $1 narrowed to between $29 and $30, en B billion brand. excitement began to rise among Vince shares closed Destination XL Group Inc. reported a broader loss for That is the valuation the stock the Vince management team as at $28.66 on Friday. by the third quarter, but saw strong response to its growing

market gave the contemporary NYSE officials said the shares hoto fleet of DXL big and tall superstores. PAGE 12 brand Friday as it became the were getting close to their debut. p first U.S. apparel firm to go public That drew a thumbs-up from Vince nail biter,” Granoff said. on WWD.COM since Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. chief executive officer Jill Granoff. Now the task is to build out in December 2011. Vince’s initial Granoff said afterward that Vince’s business. According to public offering raised $200 million. the shares priced at $20 because Granoff, the vision to optimize EYE: Karlie Kloss and SNL veterans Tina Fey and Seth The brand late Thursday of significant interest in the stock growth for Vince across each Meyers were among attendees at the American Museum of night priced 10 million shares from investors during the just- channel of distribution includes Natural History gala. For more, see page 10 and WWD.com. at $20 each, higher than the completed, two-week road show. “evolving the brand from a U.S. original expected range of $17 to As for her thoughts during that wholesale business to a global, $19 a share. On Friday morning nearly one-hour wait, Granoff dual-gender lifestyle brand.” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is the shares surged 47 percent to said, “Lisa kept saying, ‘It’s going The apparel mix is still domi- [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. $29.50 at the open of trading. The to go up.’ I’ve run a public com- nated by women’s at 85 percent COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. shares climbed as high as $30.48 pany, but I’ve never taken one and men’s at just 15 percent. VOLUME 206, NO. 109. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two before settling back to the $28 public. It was exciting to see the Categories outside of apparel in- additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance trading range for the day. Vince price going up.” clude footwear. Gregersen noted Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, shares closed at $28.66. Lisa Klinger became Vince’s that accessories, such as hand- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Private equity firm Sun Capital chief financial officer in December bags and small leather goods, are and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Partners picked up its owner- 2012, and earned high marks for set to launch in 2015. And there’s Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, ship of Vince when it acquired her handling of The Fresh Market the store expansion ahead, with Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, LA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. Kellwood Co. in 2008, which al- Inc.’s 2010 stock market listing, a goal of 100 freestanding stores com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service ready had the brand under its where she was cfo. She and Karin in the U.S., up from the current address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within umbrella. Following the IPO, Sun Gregersen, president and chief store count of 27, according to one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever still retains a 68.1 percent stake, creative officer, were also on the Klinger. The company is planning dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new or 24.7 million shares, in Vince. trading floor Friday. seven to eight store openings a subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please Although the opening bell at The public listing marked year over the next 10 years. call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The the New York Stock Exchange the end of a yearlong process Klinger said the company will YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make trading floor was at 9:30 a.m., it for Vince. There was one hiccup file its first quarterly filing as a our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would took nearly an hour before Vince when the federal government shut public firm with the SEC in mid- interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR shares actually traded on the Big down on Oct. 1. “I didn’t know December, but won’t hold a con- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED Board as brokers were trying to if the Securities and Exchange ference call until March, when it TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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w25a002a;7.indd 2 11/24/13 3:04 PM 11242013150450 WHERE TITANS OF INDUSTRY TALK wwd.com/summitsondemand Featuring videos from each event, Fairchild Summits On-Demand offers you the opportunity to watch as the titans of industry inform, inspire, and offer valuable insight for navigating the ever-changing business landscape. 4 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013

By DAVID LIPKE LAST WEDNESDAY MORNING, a small clique of Fashion and the Mayor New York’s reigning power players gathered in the Meatpacking District offices of Diane von Furstenberg {Continued from page one} an expression of culture.” how to get through the permitting process New York’s production capabilities. for the type of breakfast meeting that shapes cities, Bloomberg’s presence at the huddle In at least that respect, even Paris has if you want to do a store — or connecting Additionally, the EDC is a partner literally and figuratively. Terry J. Lundgren of Macy’s and his lobbying to move fashion week to nothing on New York, in Bloomberg’s esti- you to other people,” said Bloomberg of with the CFDA in its Fashion Incubator and Lew Frankfort of Coach were there, along with the Culture Shed — to which he has dedi- mation. “We have 900 fashion houses here. the city agency’s initiatives. program, which gives young designers a Andrew Rosen of Theory, Vera Wang, Anna Wintour, cated $50 million in city funds — were Double the number of Paris,” he boasted For example, the EDC’s “Fashion subsidized space to work from and pro- Hearst Magazine’s Michael Clinton and the Council of emblematic of the cozy relationship he — and that fashionable sheen to the hustle Campus” program, in partnership with fessional development for two years to Fashion Designers of America’s Steven Kolb. has cultivated with certain factions of and bustle of New York is what attracts all Parsons The New School for Design, has help grow their businesses. Bloomberg Presiding over the elegant little conclave was New the fashion industry during his time as sorts of people to this megalopolis, and drawn more than 550 participants to its himself has visited the Incubator space York’s head macher-in-charge — at least for the next mayor. More broadly, through the city’s keeps them here. “If we are ahead in fash- educational forums over the past three in the Garment District. 37 days, Mayor Michael Bloomberg. He had brought Economic Development Corporation, ion, that’s going to get a bunch of people to years. In the “Fashion Draft” program, For a former Republican and now along his cultural affairs commissioner, Kate Levin, he has launched numerous initiatives to move here and stay here and who will then also operated with Parsons, 46 students Independent, Bloomberg has been large- as well as Daniel Doctoroff, ceo of Bloomberg LP. boost the fashion sector and he’s been contribute in whatever their specialties have been selected from more than 500 ly protective of the zoning and regula- The high-powered powwow was engineered to front-and-center at countless industry are, whether it’s philanthropists that help applicants in the past two years to partic- tions that protect apparel and acces- discuss plans — and build support — for the Culture events over the years, from kicking off the or doctors who treat or businesspeople ipate in high-level coaching through the sories manufacturing in the “Special Shed, the ballyhooed arts center that is meant to be- very first Fashion’s Night Out in a Queens that create jobs or publishers that inform. recruitment process with leading New Garment Center District” on the West come the new home of New York Fashion Week once mall with Michael Kors to rubbing el- It all fits together.” York-based fashion and retail companies. Side of Manhattan — although some ob- it’s completed around 2017. The striking structure bows with Miley Cyrus at Fashion Group Fashion is a crucial element in the Other components of Fashion NYC 2020 servers say enforcement has been lax for will serve as an anchor of the ambitious Hudson International’s most recent Night of Stars. life of the city, enmeshed with, and com- include the “Fashion Fellows” mentorship area landlords that try to skirt the rules Yards development on the West Side of Manhattan, “Oscar de la Renta — who campaigned plementing, the worlds of finance, media, program for young professionals; “Design in order to bring in nonmanufacturing currently under construction and set to become a for me in the Dominican community three technology and diplomacy. Together they Entrepreneurs NYC,” which is a mini- tenants. At one point, Bloomberg and marquee capstone of Bloomberg’s 12-year tenure at times in a row — he was at my house last create the seductive complexion of New MBA boot camp for independent fashion the city considered amending the zoning City Hall, which comes to a close next month. night. He and his wife are very close per- York that beckons strivers the world over. firms, and “Project Pop-Up,” a series of in- laws, which led to protests in 2009 and sonal friends,” recounted Bloomberg in a “In each of these industries, New York novative, temporary retail concepts. 2010, with designers like Elie Tahari, valedictory interview with WWD. “I have has some real advantages — scale. And The EDC is close to unveiling a part- Nanette Lepore and Yeohlee Teng taking lots of friends in the fashion business. The if you are ahead in one, you help the oth- nership with a financial firm that will to the streets along with public officials guy who just retired from running Saks, ers,” observed Bloomberg. “If intellec- launch its NYC Fashion Production Fund and garment workers. In the end, the city Steve Sadove, is a really good guy. Terry tual capital is what your business needs by the end of the year, said Eric Johnson, backed off and kept the laws, which date Lundgren and his wife [Tina] are golfing back to 1987, in place. partners of my girlfriend [Diana Taylor] “You can’t just let unfettered capital- and I. We will sit with them at the [Macy’s Mayor Bloomberg has launched ism decide who is going to use a piece Thanksgiving Day] parade. But the night of land. There are other things that you before, we will [see] all the balloons and numerous initiatives to boost the fashion want to somehow or other include in it,” then we always go out together to dinner explained Bloomberg of his approach to and he brings his daughters along and I zoning regulations. “If you don’t, you will bring my daughters.” sector and he’s been front-and-center at not have certain industries here. Those As he talked, Bloomberg nibbled on seamstresses make Oscar de la Renta able to manufacture here and to be the what looked like potato chips that he had countless industry events over the years, from hner c i

placed neatly in a small mound on a drab fashion guru and to work with his cus- E conference table, which was situated on tomers. And if you didn’t, you’d start to kicking off the very first Fashion’s Night Out teve a small stage overlooking his open-plan see other places do that.” S by by

“bullpen” at City Hall. The mayor, with He illustrated the point via his own S an estimated fortune of $31 billion, works in a Queens mall with Michael Kors wardrobe, opening his suit jacket to show here in a cramped cubicle amongst his off the label of Brooklyn’s own Martin top lieutenants, including all the deputy to rubbing elbows with Miley Cyrus. Greenfield tailors, which operates in a mayors of New York. An aide later in- 40,000-square-foot manufacturing facility sisted the alleged potato chips must have to survive, or what turns you on in terms director of the EDC’s fashion and arts in Bushwick that dates back more than been some kind of healthy snack — no of day-to-day living, then New York is division. Seeded with $1 million from 100 years. (It was previously the William P. doubt without saturated fats. where you want to be. We aren’t the low- the EDC, matched by another $1 million Goldman suit company before Greenfield omody Whalen; all other all Whalen; omody Bloomberg’s embrace of the fashion in- est-priced place, we aren’t the place with from the corporate partner, the Fashion bought it in 1977 and changed the name.) S dustry is predicated on the personal and the greatest space, we aren’t the place Production Fund will make loans of “I’ll tell you a great story,” said practical, economic and aesthetic, he ex- that has the least regulation. But if you $50,000 to $300,000 to small designers to Bloomberg. “I get all my suits from plained. “Fashion has a number of things. need the best and the brightest to work help cover the costs of fulfilling produc- [this] tailor in Brooklyn. Every suit. And One, there’s a business answer: $72 bil- in your business, or to be your friends tion orders. Those orders must be made they’re cheaper than Paul Stuart, where aylor by Kristen Kristen by aylor lion worth of [wholesale] business, it gen- and neighbors, this is where it is.” by New York-based facilities, with the aim I used to get my clothing. [Bill] Clinton, T erates a couple of billion dollars worth As the founder and former chief execu- of growing young design businesses as Ray Kelly, Colin Powell, myself, Barack of tax revenue, employs 180,000 people tive officer of the money-minting financial well as the manufacturing base in the city. Obama, all get their suits there. You can in the city,” rattled off the mayor. “Then information firm Bloomberg LP, the mayor “Especially under this administra- get a cheaper suit, but my suits are all there is the psychological contribution. is especially sympathetic and attuned to tion, we have worked to come up with 10 years old. They last forever. I was out People want to be in fashion. Not work- the entrepreneurial spirit, said observ- programs that aren’t just one-off fixes there the other day to get a new sport ing in it, but to be au courant, if you will. ers. Under his administration, New York but rather an holistic, forward-looking jacket and I come outside — and this is They take great pride in it. They envision has made a concerted effort to support strategy to help the fashion industry,” in a dumpy warehouse part of Brooklyn themselves. You see yourself in a wom- new fashion businesses and attract tal- said Johnson. — and there’s a juice bar across the an’s magazine and you think that if you ent here. In 2010, the city’s EDC launched Nurturing New York apparel mak- street and another fancy place. The bought that dress you’ll look like her. No an initiative under the banner “Fashion ers is also the goal of the new Fashion whole neighborhood is changing. Now, you won’t, I hate to break that to you, but NYC 2020.” The effort includes a number Manufacturing Initiative, which was someday someone’s going to come along nevertheless. So I think the fashion indus- of separate programs, with various part- launched by the EDC and the CFDA in and want to rip down that building. try’s contribution — everyone focuses on ners, aimed at fostering fashion talent, in September. Spearheaded by Theory’s [Martin Greenfield] is going to have to the economics — but to me it has always both design and management, and jump- Rosen and with financial support from have a loft building to make his clothing been more that it provides the pizzazz and starting independent fashion firms. Ralph Lauren, Rag & Bone and Rue in. We want to protect that.” interest [to a city]. It’s like cultural institu- “The Economic Development La La, the program will offer matching In fact, Greenfield and his sons, Jay tions and parks — these are all things that Corporation, they deserve the real credit grants to factories that invest in upgrad- and Tod, own the manufacturing facility differentiate a city from cement. And the for all the economic stuff, reducing the ed equipment, new technology and work- so they’re safe from the threat of gentri- fashion industry has done that. Fashion is impediments to get going and finding out er training with the goal of modernizing fication that could potentially squeeze Fashion’s night out and von Furstenberg photos by John Calabrese;John by photos Furstenberg von and out night Fashion’s Bloomberg: Man of Fashion t 2005: With Anna Wintour t 2007: With Terry Lundgren t 2009: Kicking off Fashion’s Night Out at Macy’s. at the New Yorkers at the annual Parsons benefit For Children benefit. and fashion show.

s 2003: With Oscar de la Renta s 2006: Greeting Ralph Lauren after the s 2009: Unveiling Giorgio Armani’s Fifth Avenue flagship at the CFDA Awards. designer’s fall men’s wear show. with Caroline Kennedy, Joel Klein and the designer.

w25a004(5-6)a;11.indd 4 11/22/13 7:55 PM 11222013195556 WwD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 5 WWD.COM

them out. The family employs 120 people there. “If we had to pay rent to be here, it would be a huge problem,” said Jay Greenfield. “It’s hugely important to have industry in the city. Job creation is key. It can’t all be real estate. Someone has to Fashion and the Mayor have a job and earn a living and pay taxes and raise children to make a city work.” Nanette Lepore, who is execu- tive director of the Save the Garment Center trade association, applauded Bloomberg’s stance — even if he wasn’t always so amenable to the group’s con- cerns earlier in his administration. “It took a little while to get his attention. We did have to do a couple of rallies. But it feels like he gets it now,” said the design- er. “I do think he backed off the initial intention to develop the area into more commercial businesses.” There are limits to what can be made in high-cost New York and it’s ad- vanced production that Bloomberg be- lieves is the most effective use of space here — hence efforts like the EDC and the CFDA’s Fashion Manufacturing Initiative. “If you were going to make 100,000 white T-shirts, you’re probably not going to do it in New York City,” said Bloomberg. “As a matter of fact, you’re probably not going to do it where you would have done it four or five years ago because that’s a business where

low price is everything.…In places that compete on price, you always will find somebody who is willing to do it at a lower price. And you see that in China, things moving from there to Bangladesh and Indonesia. There will always be

someone hungrier. But what New York brings is a quality. If you said to Oscar [de la Renta], ‘Do you sew things here or in Bangladesh?’ It isn’t even close. He wants to be where he can see the work.

hner He wants to be where his customers can c ’’ i E

interact with the people that produce, the seamstresses. And he wants people teve S who understand the diversity of New by

S York and of the world.” It’s that diversity, long one of the city’s

other most evident calling cards, which is an

all asset to multinational companies of all stripes, in Bloomberg’s view. “I’ve al- ways thought that New York will do phe- Whalen; nomenally well in I.T. because if you are going to build an iPhone and want to sell omody S it around the world, you’ve got to know about people around the world,” he rea-

Kristen soned. He added a jab at the city’s cross-

by continental rival. “If you live in Silicon Valley, you don’t. It’s a great place — you aylor T play golf, lift weights, ride bicycles. And if every girl that you date is named Siri and that’s OK with you, then it’s OK. But it’s

Calabrese; People want to [New York’s] diversity that has built the fashion industry and everything else.” John Bloomberg takes great satisfaction by be in fashion. Not touting New York’s standing as the safest big city in America. According to Federal photos working in it, but Bureau of Investigation statistics, he’s right — New York has the lowest per cap- to be au courant, if ita rate of violent and property crimes in the country. That fact is a big part of Furstenberg the Bloomberg legacy, although it comes von you will. They take with a price — namely the controversial

and stop-and-frisk policy that critics and at

out great pride in it. least one court have found amounts to illegal racial profiling of minority men.

night On Friday, the 2nd U.S. Circuit Court of Appeal denied a city motion to suspend {Continued on page 6} Fashion’s t t 2009: Kicking off Fashion’s Night Out at Macy’s. 2012: t 2013: With Tilda Swinton Kisses from at MoMA’s Film Benefit, Diane von hosted by Chanel.

Furstenberg t at a Fashion for Sandy Relief fund- raiser. ’’

s 2009: Unveiling Giorgio Armani’s Fifth Avenue flagship s 2010: With Diana Taylor at the s 2013: With Heidi Klum, Michael Kors and with Caroline Kennedy, Joel Klein and the designer. Met’s Costume Institute gala. Kenneth Cole at amfAR’s New York Gala.

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gramming that ran from 2009 to 2012. The CFDA recognized Bloomberg’s contribu- tions to the fashion industry in 2008 with Fashion and the Mayor a Board of Directors’ Special Tribute, the {Continued from page 5} only mayor to ever receive that award. the lower-court ruling that the stop-and- “He’s been an incredible partner and frisk policy has been conducted in a dis- For more images, see he’s really understood what a huge part of criminatory and unconstitutional manner. the New York economy the fashion busi- It’s possible to see loose parallels to WWD.com/ ness is and every time one reached out the stop-and-frisk controversy and the fashion-news. to him, whether personally or through current firestorm surrounding Barneys the auspices of the CFDA, he totally has New York and Macy’s. Two separate stepped up to the plate,” said Wintour. black customers have alleged they were “He realizes that fashion is the heartbeat stopped and questioned by police offi- of this city and it’s been an extraordinary cers after making big-ticket purchases experience working with him.” at Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship. Bloomberg returned Wintour’s senti- Barneys has denied that any of its em- ments, praising the Vogue editor in chief ployees were involved in the incidents. and Condé Nast artistic director’s lead- The NYPD has disputed that assertion, ership in the industry and its related claiming the stops were made after philanthropic efforts. He said Fashion’s Barneys employees raised suspicions Night Out helped revitalize the city fol- about the purchases. lowing the 2008 recession — although he Asked about the cases, Bloomberg added it had lost much of its mojo by the

couldn’t resist the chance to defend the time it went on “hiatus” this year. stop-and-frisk policy — and was gener- “You have to give some credit to Anna ally sympathetic to the plight of retailers Wintour.…She’s very smart and she’s fighting theft. “In the case of stop-and- done a good job,” he said. “They started frisk, the judge [Shira Scheindlin, who this Fashion’s Night Out. Each of these was removed last month from the case by things, they run their course, they be-

the federal appeals court] keeps thinking come blasé. Everybody else starts doing that we should stop people in proportion it. And that’s when you got to learn, drop to their representation in the popula- it and do the next thing.” tion. By that argument, you would stop a While discussing Wintour, Bloomberg bunch of little old ladies, which we don’t. made a point of singling out one of her We’re not going to find many guns with editor peers. “Joanna Coles, who runs little old ladies. In stop-and-frisk, we do ’’ Cosmo, is a dynamo. She is the future what we think the law allows.…We stop of fashion,” he enthused, unprompted. people if they act suspicious — and there “She’s got a pizazz about her and an edge is a definition that’s been vetted by the that is exactly what you need in that busi- courts — or if they fit the description of a ness. I’m a big fan.” perp,” said Bloomberg. Bloomberg is less of a fan of youthful, “Now in the case of Barneys, I have no experimental fashion — the city’s efforts idea what really happened. All of these to aid emerging designers notwithstand- stores have a very big problem with theft. ing. “You have all these new fashion peo- You look at clothing in stores, they have ple that you and I have never heard of, these tags you can’t take off which would doing things that I don’t like. I don’t think buzz if you walk out the door. I don’t know they are real fashion,” he scoffed, prof- much about the retail clothing business fering his preference for Establishment but I think it is a very big problem.” labels like Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Bloomberg sees his focus on safety Herrera and Ralph Lauren. “But that’s and crime as having had a direct impact what our parents said about our stuff and on the retail climate in the city. “If you what these people will say about the next make the streets safe, then people come generation,” he allowed philosophically. out on the streets. If they come out on What does he hope people will say the streets, then you can have a store If intellectual capital is what your about his three-term mayoralty? On the that people can walk into. It all feeds to- topic of his legacy, Bloomberg laid out gether,” he said. “It’s interesting, when I business needs to survive, or what turns a manifold response, encompassing a ask Diane [von Furstenberg] or Oscar or range of achievements. Barry Diller or Ralph Lauren — he is a you on in terms of day-to-day living, then “Life expectancy in New York City very old, personal friend — it’s not about today is two-and-a-half years greater fashion, it’s more about business. What’s than the national average and three the economy doing?” New York is where you want to be. years greater than when I came in. And if Bloomberg gave his old friend Lauren’s that isn’t an accomplishment for our ad- business a boost when he handed the Von Furstenberg and Kolb, the presi- The designer and his wife, Annette, ministration, of making 8.4 million peo- designer the keys to the city on the occa- dent and the ceo of the CFDA, respec- along with von Furstenberg and husband ple live three years longer, then I don’t sion of the opening of Lauren’s palatial tively, have yet to meet with De Blasio. Diller, are planning a glitzy celebratory know what is,” said Bloomberg. “That Madison Avenue women’s flagship in 2010. “I can’t wait to meet him. Bloomberg dinner for Bloomberg in early December. [increase] includes fighting crime, that “When we opened the doors of our new has set an incredible example,” said von “It’s not a farewell dinner. It’s a thank includes faster response times with am- store on the corner of Madison and 72nd, Furstenberg. “The most incredible thing you dinner,” insisted von Furstenberg. bulances and fire trucks and police cars. the mayor was there not only to celebrate is that the mayor was always available to De la Renta reminisced about the That includes the smoking ban and get- that accomplishment, but in a bigger any conversation. He knows how impor- many meals he and his wife have en- ting rid of trans fats and ratings of res- sense to show his support and pride for tant an industry we are to the city. All we joyed with the mayor and Diana Taylor taurants, it’s all of that.” our city’s all-important fashion industry,” really need to know is that [De Blasio] over the years. “At least a couple of times While it’s unlikely that restaurant rat- recounted Lauren. “As someone who was will recognize how valuable we are.” a month, we will have dinner quietly. ings have had a huge impact on life expec- raised in New York and having spent my De Blasio has stayed mostly under the Never, ever in a fancy restaurant. Always tancy, it’s true newborn New Yorkers now whole life here, I’ve always felt that Mayor radar since his election victory and of in all parts of the city. We’ve had rice and live an average of 80.9 years, compared to Bloomberg was looking out for all of us and the 60 prominent New Yorkers appointed beans in Washington Heig’’hts,” recalled the national average of 78.7 years. for the good of the city. As a leader, he has to his official transition committee, just the designer. “He was so proud because “The second thing I would say is educa- maintained an openness, a receptivity to one comes from the fashion world: Kevin so many people would come up to him tion. We’ve made an enormous difference ideas and an accessibility that is rare.” Ryan, founder and chairman of Gilt. and say, ‘Mayor Bloomberg we are so in education — hopefully it doesn’t get Macy’s Lundgren was emphatic that As could be expected of a close friend proud of you.’” rolled back,” continued Bloomberg. “But a continued focus on crime and safety by and frequent dinner companion of the During de la Renta’s long bout with today, minority kids, 70 percent more are Bloomberg’s successor is of paramount mayor’s, de la Renta was effusive in his cancer — he is in remission now, he said graduating than did when we came into of- concern for him and his colleagues on praise of Bloomberg. “I remember when — and extended hospitalizations over fice. Crime in schools has gone away. When the Partnership for New York City, the I came to New York, when I was afraid of the past years, Bloomberg was a constant I came into office, not one of the 25 best influential organization of ceo’s that he leaving my office at 550 Seventh Avenue. source of comfort. “When you are not schools in New York State were in New cochairs. “The number-one thing that the I was afraid that people would come and well, you realize who your friends are York City. This year, 22 out of 25 [elementa- Mayor-elect [Bill De Blasio] should indeed break the glass of my car. All of that has and who are those people who are not ry and middle schools, ranked by standard- focus on is safety in our city. That is so in- disappeared from the city,” said de la your friends,” said de la Renta. “Mayor ized tests] were in New York City. credibly important,” said Lundgren. “We Renta, speaking by phone from his home Bloomberg called me on the telephone “And the third thing is, honesty in never can take for granted that this is a in Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic. at Memorial [Sloan-Kettering] hospital government — nobody has ever thought city that has been under attack, it is a city “The whole city should be in mourn- almost every single day and came to see they could bribe their way in,” concluded that once had significant violent crime and ing about the fact that Mayor Bloomberg me in the hospital almost twice a week. Bloomberg. “We do whatever we think is today this is considered the safest large is leaving. He is, by far, the best mayor the That is called loving friendship.” right. You can question whether that is city in America. And we should never take city has ever had. What Mayor Bloomberg Wintour has built a fruitful relation- what’s right. But nobody questions the that for granted and know that it requires created for the people in this city and the ship with Bloomberg over the years. A motives. And I think it showed a new way strong leadership from the mayor and the legacy he has left behind is extraordi- decade ago, the mayor hosted a dinner of bringing people in, where you attract police commissioner. So, however that gets nary. Today, New York City is, by far, the at his house for the launch of the CFDA/ great people. You delegate and you give done in the next administration, I’m just capital of the world and we owe that to Vogue Fashion Fund, for example. More them the authority to go along with re- counting on that being an extremely high the work of all of us, but mainly to Mayor recently, he was a key supporter of the sponsibility, which is the real key to man- priority for Mayor De Blasio.” Bloomberg,” gushed de la Renta. Vogue-sponsored Fashion’s Night Out pro- agement. And the results are there.”

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A key manufacturing area for ap- s Custom rug and textile designer Inigo parel, innerwear, accessories and lace e Elizalde launched a special sample sale mag 8: Ann Inc. (stat if and embroideries, the death toll in the I in his studio offering a selection of signa- Philippines rose to 5,209 and the number ture embroidered throw pillow covers, all /Getty needed); Typhoon of injured was at 23,404 as of Friday. Some P hand-made in the Philippines. Suggested

1,582 are still missing, according to the N/AF retail is $75 to $100. All proceeds will go to

Philippine News Agency. TO the Philippine Red Cross, said Elizalde. Among the champions in raising In the global manufacturing arena, (2 pics) much-needed donations for typhoon RALS Matt Hall, chief communications officer

victims is Josie Natori, chief executive MARK for Hanesbrands, said donations to vic- The rebuilding process will be a long one. officer of Natori Co., who is galvanizing by tims of natural disasters has long been a individuals and companies to aid people Hanes hallmark. and areas impacted by the devastation photo “We donated $20,000 to the American in her native country. Natori, who was about doing a show to raise money. Most of Regarding other charitable efforts from Red Cross for relief efforts in the in Manila a few days after the typhoon our cast is Filipino, and all of us feel the the fashion industry, Kolb said the Polo Philippines. We have approximately 20 em- hit, has been working closely with the same way. It’s personal for all of us.” Ralph Lauren Foundation made a direct ployees in the Philippines who manage our Philippine fashion industry as well as Natori noted that she has embarked donation on behalf of all Ralph Lauren commercial selling business there. All are Dick Gordon, head of the Philippine on two other initiatives to bolster aid employees to the American Red Cross spe- safe, accounted for and unharmed by the ty- Red Cross. Her initiative through a link to typhoon victims: an open letter to cifically for the Typhoon Appeal Fund, and phoon. We have a tradition of aiding coun- on natori.com has helped bolster dona- be published in the January issue of in addition, will match employee contribu- tries and communities affected by natural tions for relief efforts to charities that in- Departures magazine, and a collabora- tions on a dollar-for-dollar basis. disasters when we have employees in those clude UNICEF, Doctors Without Borders, tion with Colin McDowell, a former fash- He further noted that Kara Ross began places. Past assistance has gone to China Habitat for Humanity, World Vision, ion critic for the London Sunday Times working with a group of artisans in the and Haiti after earthquakes, Japan after Save the Children, International Rescue and founder of Fashion Fringe, on an Philippines on woven handbags and her the tsunami and the U.S. after hurricanes, Committee and the American Red Cross. initiative that supports young designers. company will be donating 25 percent of the tornadoes, floods and oil spills,” said Hall. “The Rockefeller Foundation and A number of major U.S. compa- retail price of each bag to organizations The celebrity connection to raise do- Rockefeller Brothers Fund have do- nies have joined the fund-raising that are coordinating relief efforts. The nations in England for the Philippines is nated $250,000, and Philip Morris cause, including Macy’s Inc., which handbags, which include clutches and day going full throttle. International along with their partner pledged $50,000, as well as Oscar de bags, are priced from $670 to $1,170, and Jamie Oliver, Alan Rickman, Stephen in the Philippines, the Tan Yan Kee la Renta, Saks Fifth Avenue, Dillard’s will be sold exclusively at kararossny.com. Merchant, Lisa Snowdon, Nigel Havers Foundation, has pledged $2.5 million Inc., Barneys New York, Nordstrom K.I.D.S. and Fashion Delivers have and New Direction were among the big over the next three years,” said Natori. Inc., Neiman Marcus Group, Charming collected $6.3 million in product dona- names manning the phones at the BT “It’s been a real humbling thing to see… Shoppes Inc., Lane Bryant, Gilt, Tianhai tions since the two charities — which are Tower in London on Monday for the DEC the images on TV were horrendous.…But Lace and Rustan’s of Manila. Personal expected to merge in December — sent Philippines Typhoon Appeal. Public re- it’s really heartwarming to see how many donations have been made by Stephen out an e-mail blast to manufacturers and sponse has been significant, and the DEC people from around the world are help- I. and Karin Sadove, Ron and Georgia retailers a week ago, said Denise Durham has so far raised 35 million pounds, or $56 ing relief efforts. Even the Japanese have Frasch and employees of the Natori Co. Williams, president of K.I.D.S. Key items million, which will go toward providing brought in tents that look like hospitals Others in the fashion industry are also are T-shirts, jeans, underwear, socks, rub- food to the 2.5 million people who have with updated technology, and doctors are raising funds. ber-soled shoes, blankets and towels. gone hungry, as well as shelter for 900,000 coming in from Europe, as well as local The roster — which is growing by the day “We are not first responders.… people who have lost their homes. doctors from all over the Philippines. — includes the Council of Fashion Designers But Operation Compassion, which In Hong Kong, Tina Leung, the stylist “But it’s going to be a long haul, and of America, Fashion Girls for Humanity, the has a wide network throughout the and blogger, joined the likes of Dee Poon, when the news dies down, we have to Polo Ralph Lauren Foundation, Jones, Kids Philippines with 600 churches and Olivia Buckingham, Divia Harilela and keep things going,” said Natori, who will in Distressed Situations, Fashion Delivers, parishes, got clearance through the Victoria Tang in donating “funky fab items” be attending a one-night benefit concert Kara Ross New York and Hanesbrands Inc. Philippine government, so we are part- for the Haiyan Relief Charity Sale, with all this evening titled “Here Lies Love,” a Steven Kolb, ceo of the CFDA, said the nering with them,” explained Williams. proceeds to benefit typhoon victims. musical based on the life of flamboyant organization has “committed to supporting Donations have been made by “There’s no reason not to help,” former First Lady of the Philippines Fashion Girls for Humanity’s ‘Fashion for Aéropostale, Jones, Dakota Grizzly, Balboa said Leung. “There has been so much Imelda Marcos. All proceeds from the the Philippines’ auction on Charitybuzz. Baby, Evy of California, Kissy Kissy, devastation, and as neighbors to the event will go to Doctors Without Borders. com.” The auction will be staged in tan- Shirise, University Co-operative Society, Philippines, we want to do what we can Former Talking Heads front man David dem with the charity’s cofounders Julie Orbit 7, A Head and Tharanco Lifestyles, to help out. We in the fashion world have Byrne is reviving the acclaimed musical Gilhart, Kikka Hanazawa, Miki Higasa a donation of Dunning Golfwear. so much to give, really, with lots of things he cowrote with Fatboy Slim, which com- and Tomoko Ogura. Fashion Girls for “It will be a six- to eight-week process to donate. I’m still editing what I’ll be do- pleted a successful Broadway run in July. Humanity, formerly Fashion Girls for for the goods being donated, from the nating, but I’m thinking lots of clutches In a statement, Byrne said the event “is Japan, was founded in the wake of the 2011 consolidation to containment, and then and bags, some iconic Fendi clutches, about the resiliency of the Filipino people Japanese earthquake and tsunami. Details shipping. It was a very successful process perhaps. I’m hoping the event will gen- — it couldn’t be more timely. Upon hearing of “Fashion for the Philippines” auction for us with Haiti after the earthquake, erate enough interest to make everyone about this tragedy, the cast contacted me had not been finalized at press time. where we sent between $35 million and want to come and do their part.”

continued expansion in this market,” where there are currently six Lofts and New and Unexpected Items Power Ann Inc. four Ann Taylor units. “The game plan is to have 35 Lofts and 15 Ann Taylor ahead 1.9 percent to $249.2 million. Loft day products for sure. You will see us get stores,” Krill said. In a conference call, By David Moin comps excelled, rising 5.6 percent, with more and more into the gifting aspect franchising was cited as a possibility to 6.3 percent growth at Loft stores and Web around Thanksgiving and going forward.” further the international strategy. “We are HAVING THE RIGHT STUFF — new site, and 1.8 percent growth in the outlets. For the longer term, Krill cited four key absolutely looking at that right now,” Krill shoes, novelty styles and appealing store At Ann Taylor, comps were up 0.6 per- strategic initiatives: becoming more om- said. “More to come on our March call.” sets overall — powered Ann Inc. through cent, with a 4.4 percent increase at stores nichannel oriented; continuing to update Although there are six fewer shop- a strong third quarter and has raised and online, which was offset by a 6.9 per- the Ann Taylor store fleet with 80 percent ping days between Thanksgiving and prospects for healthy holiday gains. cent decline at outlets. seen done by yearend; increased personal- Christmas this year, “I think the custom- “Things that we offer that are unex- In fourth-quarter guidance, the firm ization and CRM, or customer relationship er goes into the season with a set amount pected and really emotional — that’s projected sales of $640 million, below management, and international growth. to buy gifts,” Krill observed. “We are what customers are responding to,” Kay Wall Street’s expectation, with comps up Krill said the omni strategy launched hopeful that having six fewer days won’t Krill, Ann Inc.’s president and chief ex- in the midsingle digits. a year ago when the company started mean she is not going to shop that much.” ecutive officer, told WWD. “It’s continu- Displaying confidence that the compa- shipping online orders from store in- The only downside last quarter was the ing into the fourth quarter.” ny’s performance will transcend the highly ventories to better meet demand. By late outlet business, which did not meet expec- For the three months ended Nov. 2, competitive, promotional and uncertain 2014 or early 2015, the company hopes to tations due to weak traffic and fall prod- Ann posted net income of $41.2 million, retail market, Krill said the “goal is to gain be able to ship items requested by cus- ucts, “a little heavier in nature,” that did or 89 cents a diluted share, which was share in the fourth quarter in both brands.” tomers in the stores but not available on not sell well. 1.1 percent above the $40.7 million, or “We have a planned promotional strat- premises from the online inventory. Ann Inc.’s inventory was up 8 percent at 84 cents, recorded in the third quarter of egy this year that’s more proactive than Online sales are increasing at a double- the end of the third quarter, consistent with 2012. Analysts had expected earnings per reactive. We have a strong marketing digit rate and are boosted by online exclu- the industry trend of increased inventories. share of 86 cents in the quarter. strategy and strong promotional strategy sives at both brands, including additional But Krill said 90 percent of the inventory Also beating estimates were sales, which and we are more balanced in color and colors, extended sizes, petites, wedding entering the fourth quarter is fresh, and in the quarter rose 7.3 percent to $657.5 mil- novelty and emotional pieces.” and event dressing, Krill said. that the increase reflects a change in timing lion, from $612.5 million a year ago. Sales Krill said holiday shopping “might be With international, “Our expansion merchandise receipts. Loft is seen as less rose 3.7 percent on a comparable basis. starting earlier” and that Ann Inc. is “al- into Canada has continued to be a home promotional in the fourth quarter, while Revenues at Loft were up 11 percent, ready off to a strong start” in the fourth run. Our stores are experiencing out- Ann Taylor will be more so. to $408.4 million, and at Ann Taylor were quarter. “We are marketing those holi- standing results and we look forward to — With contributions by Arnold J. Karr

w25a008a;12.indd 8 11/22/13 7:04 PM 11222013190533 WwD monday, november 25, 2013 9 WWD.COM Moncler IPO Gets the OK U.S., Bangladesh to Sign Accord list on Italy’s Bourse. and textiles were not covered by GSP, By LUISA ZARGANI Sources indicate that the IPO is expect- By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN which included imports such as tobacco, ed to take place in mid-December and that sports equipment, porcelain china and MILAN — Moncler SpA on Friday received the company will float around 30 percent THE U.S. and Bangladesh are set plastic products. the green light from the Italian Stock of its total shares. Industry sources said to sign a Trade and Investment In dropping GSP benefits, the U.S. Exchange to proceed with its public listing. Moncler’s IPO could value the company Cooperation Forum Agreement today cited the severity of Bangladesh’s gar- The Italian luxury brand still needs at around 2 or 2.4 billion euros, or $2.68 to that is said to provide an important ment factory safety problems and the to wait for approval from Consob, Italy’s $3.22 billion at current exchange. mechanism for the two countries to inability of Bangladeshi workers to ex- equivalent of the Securities and Exchange Moncler’s selling partners are ECIP discuss bilateral trade and investment ercise their full range of labor rights. Commission, which is expected next week, M., controlled by Eurazeo SA; CEP III, issues, as well as be a forum to pursue The Action Plan provides a list of before it kicks off its two-week road show. controlled by The Carlyle Group, and cooperative activities. measures related to fire and building Following Consob’s approval, Moncler will Brand Partners 2, controlled by Progressio Acting Deputy U.S. Trade safety, as well as worker rights in the reveal the number of shares it plans to put Investimenti. Eurazeo holds 45 percent Representative Wendy Cutler and garment industry, export processing on the market and the price range and it of the firm; Carlyle, 17.8 percent, and Bangladesh Secretary of Commerce zones and the shrimp sector. The TICFA will publish its prospectus. Progressio Investimenti, 4.9 percent. Mahbub Ahmed are expected to sign the is seen as a structure for both countries After months of speculation and a Chairman and creative director TICFA in Washington. to work toward these goals, as well as shelved initial public offering in 2011, Remo Ruffini will maintain his 32 per- improve investment and other trade Moncler on Oct. 14 filed documents to cent stake. opportunities. The Action Plan Senate Foreign Relations Committee chairman Robert Menendez (D., N.J.) and committee Democrats released a report provides a list of Friday calling on global brands and retail- Investments Weigh on Belk Profit ers, factory owners and the Bangladeshi measures related government to work to ensure the safety of line improvement was “aided by colder garment workers by giving organized labor By ARNOLD J. KARR weather and the investments we have to fire and building a stronger foothold in Bangladesh. The made in the business, including store re- committee said the U.S. should pressure INVESTMENTS in technology and models, e-commerce and supply chain. the Bangladeshi government enact labor stores lifted Belk Inc.’s third-quarter November is the ‘go-live’ month for a new safety, as well as law reform and the freedom of association sales while chipping away at its profits. technology platform which includes re- to bargain collectively in implementing Net income for the Charlotte, N.C.- placement of much of our IT infrastruc- worker rights in the the action plan to reinstate GSP benefits, based department store chain dropped ture and a new merchandising system.” while also calling on the U.S. to increase 67.6 percent to $3.6 million from $11.1 He added that new technology that will garment industry. funding for programs in Bangladesh to im- million in the 2012 quarter. Excluding allow shipment of belk.com orders from prove union organizing and bargaining. asset impairment charges and gains on stores is now being tested. “These invest- On Friday, U.K.-based Edinburgh assets, profits were off 53.1 percent to ments will add expense and impact earn- In July, the U.S. and Bangladesh Woolen Mill, which also owns high-street $4.6 million. ings over the next 18 months,” Belk said. agreed to a Bangladesh Action Plan, chains Peacocks and Jane Norman, be- Revenues rose 2.8 percent to $860.7 mil- Belk, the largest privately held depart- along with a statement by the U.S. on came the latest company to join the Ban- lion, from $837.5 million, and were up 3.5 ment store group in the U.S., singled out “Labor Rights and Factory Safety in Ban- gladesh Accord on Fire and Building percent on a comparable basis, with same- contemporary sportswear, shoes, acces- gladesh.” The USTR said at the time that Safety. The accord is a legally binding store sales ahead 2 percent and a 44.8 sories and men’s and children’s apparel the implementation of the actions out- agreement that now includes 115 compa- percent increase in e-commerce account- as its strongest merchandise categories. lined in the plan could provide a basis nies and trade unions from 19 countries ing for the remainder of the comp growth. The company expanded or remodeled for the President to consider reinstate- across Europe, North America, Asia and Gross margin ticked up to 31.5 percent of 16 of its 301 stores during the quarter. ment of the Generalized System of Pref- Australia created to help prevent future sales, from 31.4 percent a year ago. For the year to date, net income was erences trade benefits for Bangladesh factory catastrophes in Bangladesh. Tim Belk, chairman and chief execu- down 21.1 percent to $62.2 million, as rev- that were suspended in June, which — WITH CONTRIBUTION tive officer of the company, said the top- enues grew 3.9 percent to $2.72 billion. went into effect in September. Apparel FROM KRISTI ELLIS

among other things. Ripp is Irons and Pierre Casiraghi. also guaranteed a minimum Maurizio Cattelan in the Berluti creative director Memo pad of $750,000 for his 2013 cash Berluti campaign. Alessandro Sartori said bonus. Cattelan — like Irons and ON DECK: The public offering documents Ripp’s hire was just one of Casiraghi — is “in a league for Time Inc. didn’t provide a valuation many moves at the company. of his own,” having spent for the publisher or a timing of its spin- In September, the company “30 years provoking the off from Time Warner, but it did reveal acquired American Express art world with his unique things much more interesting: salaries Co.’s publishing unit, which satire. This, and his of key executives and the division’s included Travel & Leisure, unfailing elegance, make financial information. Food & Wine and Departures. him the perfect Berluti Time Warner filed its initial public It also reorganized its man.” — MILES SOCHA offering documents for the widely editorial structure, which has anticipated spin-off of its publishing managing editors reporting DIGITAL MERGER: European division Time Inc. after the stock market to group presidents of Time Web site Aufeminin.com, closed Friday. Inc.’s magazine divisions. owned by Axel Springer For the year ended Dec. 31, 2012, The reorganization caused AG, is taking a 60 percent the publishing business saw its net editor in chief Martha Nelson to stake in MyLittleParis. income fall 28.5 percent to $263 million leave. The company brought com, effective Jan. 1. MONDINO from year-ago income of $368 million. back Norman Pearlstine, who Financial terms were not Operating income fell 25.4 percent to departed Bloomberg LP, as disclosed. Aufeminin said $420 million from $563 million. Revenues chief content officer, a new the acquisition would give slid 6.6 percent to $3.44 billion from $3.68 yet somewhat amorphous it “access to a peer base JEAN-BAPTISTE

billion. The filing said that last year Time role. Neither Pearlstine’s BY through which it can grow Inc. held $36 million in long-term debt. nor Nelson’s salaries were its readership, and a footing

While the struggles of print aren’t revealed in the filing. PHOTO in the high-value-added new, the filing did reveal that People Time Warner said the e-shopping universe.” magazine accounted for almost 20 spin-off of Time Inc. would create break in Interview magazine on Dec. 4. MyLittleParis, often likened to the percent of Time Inc.’s revenues. “strategic clarity and flexibility,” After posing by a swimming pool in American site DailyCandy, is known As for those salaries, former Time “focused management” and suburban Paris for Jean-Baptiste Mondino, for its shopping, trend and food Inc. chief executive officer Laura Lang, “management incentives” for the cable Cattelan decided to jump in fully recommendations, as well as its sample who lasted on the job for nearly two company and the publishing division, clothed, leaving his Berluti loafers high sales and MyLittleBoxes, an e-shopping years, had total compensation for fiscal which includes more than 20 titles. and dry on the diving board. The French offer through monthly subscription. 2012 of $7.6 million, which included a The move will allow Time Warner to brand’s “Initiated by” tag line reads Fany Péchiodat, who previously worked at base salary of $961,539. She accrued focus instead on its cable properties, “Buster Keaton,” referring to the silent Beauté Prestige International, founded $2.9 million in stock and options and such as its lucrative HBO business, and film star whose masculine elegance the site in 2008. $659,362 in other compensation — the disentangle itself from Time Inc., which and stoic expressions are echoed in She said the merger would allow bulk of that sum relating to “relocation- has been its worst-performing division. Cattelan’s natty shirt-and-tie, off-camera MyLittleParis to speed up its growth and related expenses.” According to media reports, analysts gaze — and impromptu stunt. international expansion. Lang will continue to receive her put Time Inc.’s enterprise value as a Adding an extra artistic layer, Initially a newsletter between base salary, as well as an annual bonus public company at between $2.7 billion Cattelan tapped one of his favorite video friends, in French and English, of $1.8 million, until Nov. 2, 2015. and $4.9 billion. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD artists, Yuri Ancarani, to film the making-of, MyLittleParis has accrued an online Joe Ripp, Lang’s successor, who which is to be unveiled on social media community of about a million visitors officially took the reins in September, WET AND WILD: Sometimes the best frame at the end of the month. and is expanding into other French has an employment agreement that of a photo shoot arrives after it’s wrapped. As Berluti’s campaigns focus on cities, weddings and the men’s market includes an annual base salary of That was the case for Berluti, which personalities rather than particular via the site Merci Alfred. $1 million, and a discretionary annual tapped cheeky Italian artist Maurizio fashion seasons, the Cattelan spots are to Aufeminin.com counts 44.4 million cash bonus with a target of $1.5 million, Cattelan to front its latest spots, slated to run alongside earlier ads featuring Jeremy monthly visitors. — Laure Guilbault

w25a009a;10.indd 9 11/24/13 2:36 PM 11242013143731 10 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013

in her late-50s in the film, and the makeup that ages her is handled Naomie Harris in an with considerable subtlety, some- Etro top and a Camilla Playing It Real thing that’s not always the case in and Marc skirt. the movies. Harris says that stron- MEETING Naomie Harris for University. After graduation, she ger maquillage was tried, but didn’t the first time after seeing her began studying acting at Bristol work. She received a lot of advice new film, “Mandela: Long Walk Old Vic Theatre School. about playing Winnie, and every- to Freedom,” directed by Justin Her credits include the body had an opinion about her, but Chadwick, is a little intimidating. science-fiction TV series “The then she met the woman herself, After all, her character of Nelson Tomorrow People,” the film “28 who said, “All I am going to ask is Mandela’s wife Winnie becomes Days Later” and the TV adap- that you portray me faithfully.” a revolutionary firebrand who tation of Zadie Smith’s “White Harris says that this state- hates the government, believes in Teeth.” She was the first black ment freed her, enabling her to achieving freedom through vio- actress to play Eve Moneypenny “take ownership of the part.” lence and executes party mem- in the James Bond movies. It The political leader later said bers she suspects of being spies was her role in the film “The that she felt that Harris was the by viciously “necklacing” them with tires full of gasoline set afire. Harris’ character in the film, A scene in “Mandela: which will open in New York and Long Walk to Freedom.” Los Angeles on Friday, undergoes a remarkable series of changes. She morphs from well-brought up, well-educated, pretty young lady who is a social worker — dressed carefully in stylish late Fifties- early Sixties suits, dresses and hats — to radicalized party leader wearing camouflage. The change happens largely because of the harassment and cruelty the regime shows her as

a proxy for her husband, who EICHNER was in prison on isolated Robben Island at the time, an environ- STEVE BY ment that was re-created in the

studio. Harris handles the chang- PHOTO es in the character with great skill, and it seems likely that she First Grader,” directed by only actress who has “truly cap- Idris Elba, who plays Nelson too. “We were living in this very will be nominated for an Oscar. Chadwick, that helped her land tured” her. “She had a really, Mandela. “He is very good at basic environment,” he says. But However, Harris is nothing the part in “Mandela.” In “The really tough time,” Harris says. diving into the darkest possible she took it in stride. like Winnie Mandela, at least First Grader,” Harris is a school- She was frequently interrogated places but also having moments Harris lives in London near the one at the end of the film. teacher teaching a class of stu- or arrested, spending one long of lightness,” she says. her family, to whom she is very In person, she is an elegant dents in Kenya, something she stretch in solitary confinement, Chadwick, for his part, prais- close. As for her career, “I never beauty and highly articulate. actually did during the film. and any employer who gave her es Harris for playing a “person- had a plan,” she says. “I always Harris, who is British, went to “I had no idea she was so con- a job received an intimidating al and flawed” character, and just wanted to do great work.” St. Marylebone School and re- troversial,” says Harris of Winnie. visit from security forces, which says that he was impressed by Thus far, the serendipitous route ceived a social and political sci- The actress, who is 37, goes from meant that she would be fired. her behavior and performance seems to be unfolding just fine. ences degree from Cambridge being a woman in her 20s to one Harris enjoyed working with on the set of “The First Grader,” — LORNA KOSKI

Tina Fey Florence Funny Bones Welch “I ONLY LOOK this put- Cecily Strong, Taran Killam, Vanessa together because our hair and Bayer, Jay Pharoah, Bobby Moynihan makeup people are magicians,” and Seth Meyers among them Nasim Pedrad said on Thursday — piled into the museum en night. The “Saturday Night masse, most of them coming Live” veteran was among straight from 30 Rock. “Yeah, the coterie of castmates who yeah,” Moynihan said with a were orbiting the towering tired smile. “We’re coming just Tyrannosaurus vertebrae at the straight from rehearsal.” center of the American Museum Soon, the crowd moved into of Natural History’s Theodore the Milstein Hall of Ocean Life, Roosevelt Memorial Hall, where where guests picked on plates cocktails were being clinked of radicchio salad under the Lorne for the museum’s annual gala. room’s massive blue whale. Michaels Show-runner Lorne Michaels and “It’s going to be weird actually wife Alice are gala chairmen. having a Democratic mayor “Thissss,” Pedrad said, looking for the first time in 20 years or Tina Fey from the dais shortly down at her black billowy mini something. Well, after 12 years after hopping onstage. “Bikers dress, searching for the fashion of hard-core right-wing [Mayor are so judge-y and angry. It’s credit. “This is Gucci. From our Michael] Bloomberg with his gay like, ‘You’re not more green lovely wardrobe department.” marriage and bike lanes. I hate than me! I’m walking!’” The “SNL” crew — Pedrad, those bike lanes,” said emcee — TAYLOR HARRIS

Karlie Kloss

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Nasim Pedrad, WWD.com/eye. EICHNER

Seth Meyers, STEVE

Alexi Ashe Josh BY and Will Forte. Hutcherson PHOTOS WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Carmelo Anthony and Derek Jeter FASHION SCOOPS

BRING ON THE NIGHT: Next week is couture of customers outside its doors long week in Paris — at least it is for Pierre before it opened. They were hoping to Cardin. The French designer plans to purchase one of 500 pieces of designer mark the 60th anniversary since his first wear from the celebrity couple. fashion show by parading a high-fashion By 5 p.m., it had sold out of all the collection at Maxim’s on Tuesday. items donated by the Beckhams. Under the label Maxim’s de Paris, Organizers were hoping that the the couture collection is to focus on Beckham donations, which included evening attire: cocktail dresses 100 pairs of the designer’s and evening gowns for FOR MORE shoes, would raise around women, and creative black SCOOPS, SEE 500,000 pounds, or $805,605, tie for men, according to a for the Disasters Emergency Cardin spokesman. WWD.com Committee — an alliance The last time the of 14 charities that are designer put couture on a working to provide aid to No Drama Derek Paris runway was in 1996, the devastated region. The the spokesman said, acknowledging donation included dresses, tops, suits the house is “atypical” with its show and shoes from labels including Dolce IT’S A GOOD TIME to be Derek Jeter. At fibers and “ultralight fabric on the schedule. — MILES SOCHA & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo and Roberto the start of the month, the shortstop crotch so you don’t feel constricted,” Cavalli. A pair of boots by Gina fetched and Yankees’ captain re-signed with according to a description. Its MULBERRY OUT: As the search for a 200 pounds, or about $322, the most for a the team for $12 million. Two weeks “adjustable interior mesh pouch creative director to succeed Emma single item. ago, he signed a groundbreaking, cross- keeps you supported and prevents Hill continues at Mulberry, WWD has — J.N. platform deal with Simon & Schuster sweating and chafing.” learned that the brand will not stage for an undisclosed, but surely hefty, Upstairs, the model Tyson Beckford a runway show during the fall 2014 HAPPY MEALS: Citymeals-on-Wheels amount for his own publishing imprint, had walked into the pop-up by mistake London collections in February. Hill hosted its 27th annual power lunch for Jeter Publishing. Last Thursday, — he came to see some friends — and showed her last collection for women at The Plaza Friday afternoon. while his teammate Alex Rodriguez was was skeptical of the underwear’s price. Mulberry in September, and The star attraction was Cyndi Lauper, weathering yet another spate of “I don’t know about buying while names including Erdem who performed her hit “Time horrible press, this time over an no damn $100 underwear. I Moralioglu, Roland Mouret, Mary After Time” for a room that arbitration hearing with Major struggle to buy, like, $25 Calvin Katrantzou and Sophie Hulme have included Cynthia Nixon, Brooke League Baseball, Jeter was eye Kleins,” he said. been whispered as possible Shields, Katie Couric, Debra in Manhattan’s Meatpacking But Jeter would not be replacements, a successor is Messing, Norah O’Donnell, Padma District. He was looking at deterred. He has tried these yet to be named. Lakshmi, Bobbi Brown and expensive underwear. $100 undergarments. The company said it “has Donna Hanover. It was the opening of a pop-up store “It’s worth it,” he said. “They’re not finalized its creative The organization was for the underwear line Frigo, whose all worth it.” (He was referring to the director search and will cofounded by the food critic claim to fame is a $100 pair of men’s line’s lower-price models.) therefore exceptionally not Gael Greene to feed New York’s undergarments. Any thoughts on Rivera’s words? stage a catwalk show this homebound elderly. Silda Wall There were other athletes there — “Tonight we’re going to keep it to February.” However, it added Spitzer has been involved for Carmelo Anthony, uncharacteristically Frigo,” he said, politely rebuffing the that it would “definitely be a number of years. “This is a camera-shy, and former baseball great question. participating in London fantastic event to be able to raise Darryl Strawberry — but the room orbited Jeter opened up when it came Fashion Week and details of awareness as well as money around Jeter, defiantly unretired, to his publishing venture, which this will be released in the for an amazing cause, and I’m but already enjoying a preview of effectively puts him in the same near future.” — JULIA NEEL looking forward to volunteering on the goodwill that will come during realm as Jay Z, a personality who has Thanksgiving and think they serve his emeritus years. He was in an expanded his reach beyond his initial BECKHAMS’ DONATIONS DRAW CROWD: a really important need in this city,” underground lounge overwhelmed by sphere of influence. A local British Red Cross store she said, though she declined to say fans and Instagram selfie-seekers, a “I’ve been always interested in in London saw an unprecedented the neighborhood where she’d be much more pleasant sight, for sure, content and I’ve always been interested surge in shoppers on Friday after volunteering for Citymeals. than Bud Selig, no? in business. This ties the two together. David and Victoria Beckham donated Kathleen Turner, a 20-year “I’m not gonna answer that,” Jeter This is an opportunity to publish some pieces from their wardrobe to veteran of the organization’s said calmly. Behind him, guys tried things that interest me. It doesn’t the charity shop to help support board, has been to many of

on the pricey undies in a makeshift necessarily have to be sports,” he said. EICHNER victims of Typhoon Haiyan in the these lunches over the years. changing room. Jeter allowed, though, He said he hasn’t planned for an Philippines. The British Red Cross “ Yo u get 500 New York “I’m enjoying myself tonight, yes.” autobiography yet, though it may STEVE shop in Kensington and Chelsea, women in one room, the energy The Rodriguez saga consumed happen eventually. He has been BY which specializes in second-hand is amazing. It is a lot of sass,”

the sports world last week with its reading with interest, for instance, PHOTO designer clothing, had queues Cyndi Lauper she said. — ERIK MAZA high-drama hearing and picked up Andre Agassi’s memoir, “Open.” momentum when former Yankee “It tells you the story before he is Mariano Rivera threw his support behind successful,” Jeter said. “A lot of times the embattled third-baseman. Jeter was people look at success stories and not willing to join the commentariat. He they automatically assume someone just wanted to discuss the boxer briefs. just started at point A and ended up at “I’m supporting my man, Mathias point B. You got a whole lot of levels Ingvarsson,” Jeter said, referring to an — there’s levels of success, there’s executive at Frigo. “He gave me this levels of failures and I like to hear For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. product and I fell in love with it.” those stories,” he said. The briefs, which come in black, it Around him, fans waited, still should be noted, cost so much because hoping he would pose for more they’re built with certain high-tech pictures. — ERIK MAZA Spaces COMMERCIAL

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BY (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Kelly Killoren Bensimon Tyson Beckford PHOTOS 12 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2013 WWD.COM Pirelli Fetes 50 Years of ‘The Cal’

seven monumental towers, marveled a starstruck Wek, competition,” said Tronchetti By LUISA ZARGANI Pirelli guests included Miuccia surrounded by Spacey, Pirelli Provera of the fact that the Milan Prada and her husband Patrizio president Marco Tronchetti and London branches in 1985 MILAN — Pirelli provided a jolt Bertelli; Moncler chief Remo Provera, her peers and the pho- each worked on producing its of glamour and star power to Ruffini; Italia Independent tographers to the tune of George own calendar — and London Milan as it presented its calen- founder Lapo Elkann; Sophia Michael’s “Freedom.” Guests won out with Bert Stern’s pho- dar for 2014, which marked the Loren, a onetime model for also watched performances by tos. “Newton was missing among 50th anniversary of the celebrat- “The Cal”; Franca Sozzani, and tenor Vittorio Grigolo, Gandini the biggest photographers we’ve ed marketing tool. a number of past photographers Juggling and VisionAria. worked with, but his name was On Thursday, Italy’s giant of the calendar, including Steve As it had earlier that morn- there, hidden as a treasure,” said tire manufacturer unveiled the McCurry, Peter Lindbergh and ing, Pirelli presented a video Tronchetti Provera, adding that calendar, known as “The Cal,” its first-ever lensman, Robert showing highlights of the cal- this was “the only case of a dou- for the first time here with a Freeman. Of course, there was endar through the decades and ble calendar.” Karolina Kurkova, retrospective exhibition at the no shortage of models, ranging the version for 2014, which is McCurry, who shot the 2013 Lapo Elkann and HangarBicocca, the company’s from Karolina Kurkova, Bianca an unpublished 1986 calendar calendar, praised Newton’s “in- Franca Sozzani. contemporary art venue. The Balti and Alek Wek to Carmen shot by Helmut Newton. As credible talent” and the timeless exhibition included more than Kass and Eva Herzigova. luck would have it, calendars 160 images by more than 30 pho- Spacey enthused about the for 1986 and 2014 are in sync. tographers who have worked “biggest contemporary art” Next year’s calendar comprises on the calendar over the years, venue, pointing to Kiefer’s art- 12 black-and-white images and and was followed by a dinner work. “Who would ever have 29 backstage photos, taken in for almost 900 guests, hosted imagined that someone like Monte Carlo during the 1985 by actor Kevin Spacey. In the me coming from a small town Grand Prix, and in Tuscany’s 75,600-square-foot nave domi- in Sudan would one day be Chianti area, capturing the re- nated by artist Anselm Kiefer’s standing on a stage with you?” gion’s rolling hills, cypress tress and farmhouses or a small gas station and a medieval village. Newton worked with models FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Susie Bick, Antonia Dell’Atte and Betty Prado, harking back WWD.com/eye. to a neorealist atmosphere and the imagery associated with actresses such as Loren or Silvana Mangano, juxtaposing “the rich woman and the poor one,” said Dell’Atte. Tronchetti Provera waved away lingering questions about censorship or reasons behind Newton’s abrupt departure Eva Herzigova Jeneil Williams from the set, widely attributed to family demands, leaving styl- images. “Photos are dated when human story in each picture.” MAESTRI ist Manuela Pavesi and assistant the photographer relies on tech- Kurkova said working for Xavier Alloncle with precise nique” or is looking for “fashion- “The Cal” is a “very creative” DAVIDE

BY and detailed instructions to help able” images. He said Newton project,” as it’s “not selling The retrospective exhibit at HangarBicocca. complete the task. “As in any mul- worked with “an internal sense clothes or trends, it’s about tell-

PHOTOS tinational corporation, there was of balance and poetry,” telling “a ing stories about women’s lives.”

Malandrino Opens North of the Border Destination XL Net Drops similar to a New York art gallery, ex- and positive effect from the campaign.” By BRIAN DUNN plained Malandrino, long and narrow By ARNOLD J. KARR Comps in October for the company’s with a Parisian look of round sofas and and JEAN E. PALMIERI DXL stores rose 25.3 percent. “So you MONTREAL — It seems only natural yellow glass. can see how well these stores per- that New York-based French designer “It’s very spacious with white walls DESTINATION XL Group Inc. report- formed with the strength of the cam- Catherine Malandrino would choose and high ceilings,” she said. “The second ed a broader loss for the third quarter, paign behind them,” he said. Montreal as the site of her first Canadian floor will house a showroom for whole- but saw strong response to its growing Levin said average transaction size in flagship in the heart of the Golden sale clients.” fleet of DXL big and tall superstores. the period also increased 17.4 percent, Square Mile on Sherbrooke Street West, The boutique, which opened Tuesday, In the three months ended Nov. 2, which he attributed in part to “a greater so named for Canada’s business elite who carries 60 different styles, including the company’s net loss expanded to mix of high-priced main brands as well as lived there between the 1850s and 1930s. items similar to those in her New York $4.1 million, or 8 cents a diluted share, tailored clothing.” He said every store has The two-story graystone where she has stores, but made for colder weather and from a loss of $1.6 million, or 3 cents, a Polo Ralph Lauren shop and carries set up shop once housed Zilli, the French at the same prices, said the designer. Silk in the 2012 period. Analysts expected a such well-known brands as True Religion, luxury men’s wear brand that occupied jumpsuits start at $395, and a leather slightly deeper loss of 9 cents a share. Calvin Klein and Lacoste. “Some of these the site for a short time. But Malandrino dress inset with tulle is priced at $495. Revenues contracted 0.6 percent brands were not even available in big and expects to be around for a long time. At the high end, there’s her Black Label to $88.2 million from $88.7 million. tall sizes until we opened Destination “I find Montreal a natural link be- line of tie-front gowns for $990 in an array Comparable sales rose 4.4 percent as a XL,” he said. “We’re pleased with the tween Europe and New York, and there of colors, including fuchsia, olive green 6.4 percent comp increase in the com- early customers’ response to our name- are a lot of people from Montreal who and black. For the more daring shopper, pany’s stores was offset by a 4.5 percent brand offerings, which is reflected in our shop at my stores in New York,” she there is a soft leather rocker biker jacket decline in its direct channel, with e- average transaction size.” said, explaining her decision to choose for $1,500. The store also carries shoes and commerce up 7.9 percent, but the firm’s Levin said a higher mix of tailored Montreal over the more affluent and larg- accessories. The company did not offer a discontinued catalogue business off 73.3 clothing is also attracting shoppers. er Toronto for her 2,500-square-foot store. sales projection for the store. percent. Gross margin grew to 44.5 per- “In every DXL store we offer sev- Malandrino founded her brand in cent of sales from 44 percent a year ago. eral hundred square feet dedicated to 1998, and it was acquired by Bluestar Catherine Malandrino at the opening Investors were drawn to the double- clothing. Our custom made-to-measure Alliance last August. There are three of her Montreal boutique. digit comp increases at the larger, more offering, which includes a robust selec- stores in the U.S. and a handful in the upscale DXL stores. The company is tion of suits, sport coats, dress pants Middle East. Her financial backer in in the process of converting its portfo- and shirts, is also progressing well. Montreal is Joe Hiess, president of CM lio to the new format, and the 36 stores With all these wardrobe options avail- Collections Inc., a licensee that owns open at least a year had a sales increase able, we’re attracting a new category of and operates Malandrino boutiques. A of 11.3 percent. With the addition of 38 customer that we call the end-of-rack Montreal native, Hiess brought Ralph stores that had been remodeled or re- shopper. They would shop at depart- Lauren and Yves Saint Laurent to this located, revenues were up 17.7 percent. ment stores, but options are limited. city decades ago, before leaving for New The performance of the DXL concept These are younger, smaller-waisted York — he returns home on weekends. helped lift shares of the Canton, Mass.- and more brand-conscious. Attracting “My role is to build a distribution based retailer 61 cents, or 9.5 percent, the end-of-rack customer, which repre- base, and we plan to add another store to $7.06 in Nasdaq trading Friday. sents 65 percent of the total big and tall here before opening in Toronto,” said DXL’s performance was also helped by market and who tends to have a higher Hiess, who described the store as “the- its first national marketing campaign, No spend per transaction, increases our ater retailing” with an emphasis on qual- Man’s Land, which kicked off at the end total available market.” ity, not quantity. “We don’t want to over- of September and uses humor to address Levin said customers with waist whelm customers with too many choices. frustrations the larger customer faces. sizes below a size 46 accounted for 43.5 Instead, we want to show them variety.” David Levin, chief executive officer, percent of sales in October, up from The first floor is an open concept said the company has seen “a dramatic 36.3 percent at the end of 2012.