Our Cycling Tour in England, from Canterbury to Dartmoor Forest

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Our Cycling Tour in England, from Canterbury to Dartmoor Forest .... V*»-\^ ... °*_ v.^ * ^ ' ,*Sfe \/ .-ate %^W * y% \%p?.* /\S*. :«R.: / ^ < "oV* P*+. ? ^°- V J. V ^ **% OUR CYCLING TOUR IN ENGLAND OUR CYCLING TOUR IN ENGLAND FROM CANTERBURY TO DARTMOOR FOREST, AND BACK BY WAY OF BATH, OXFORD AND THE THAMES VALLEY BY REUBEN GOLD /THWAITES SECRETARY OF THE STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF WISCONSIN, AUTHOR OF "THE COLONIES, 1492-I750," "HISTORIC WATERWAYS" " THE STORY OF WISCONSIN," ETC. JpustrateU CHICAGO A. C. McCLURG AND COMPANY l8Q2 Copyright By Reuben Gold Thwaites a.d. 1892 [THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS WASHINGTON This little journal of vacation ra7nblings in her native la?id is fondly inscribed. PREFACE. HAVE not sought to make a guide-book I of this journal of our little tour through southern England ; there are an abundance of such already, and very good ones. But having taken a somewhat novel trip, both as to route and conveyances, and seen some phases of the country and people at closer range than, unfortunately, the majority of our fellow-countrymen abroad have the opportunity for, I thought a recital of our experiences might not be altogether lacking in interest. We had no exciting adventures, wife and I ; life went smoothly with us the six weeks we were in the saddle, coursing along English highways and byways, and lovingly touching elbows with English rural life; there is little in this matter-of-fact record of our daily goings and ; viii Pi'eface. doings that can be called exhilarating, and yet we have never had another tour so replete with pleasure. A canoe ties one down to a restricted and secluded path; riding or driv- ing on a foreign tour has practical drawbacks, and is expensive ; a tricycle is a weary grind a bicycle alone gives one the best imaginable exercise, outruns canoe or horse, involves no cost of keep, enables one to meander at will, to linger or to fly as fancy dictates. By no other conveyance is one so independent in action, so free from care, or so thoroughly in communion with folk and Nature. I have sought to be a faithful reporter of what we saw and heard; but the passing traveller in any land can do nothing more than record surface indications that to the native may not seem fairly typical. American books about England are apt to be quite as amusing to Englishmen as their books about America are to us. This is inevitable; and yet I fancy the foreigner may often be nearer the mark than the native in picturing national character- istics. , Preface, ix The greater part of chapter vi. is em- braced in my article in "The New England Magazine" for May, 1892, entitled " Village Life in Old England." I am under obliga- tions to the publishers of that magazine for permission to reproduce it in this volume. REUBEN GOLD THWAITES. Madison, Wis , September, 1892, CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. In Kent 15 II. In the Heart of the South Downs . 27 III. Chichester, Goodwood, and Midhurst 51 IV. With Hampshire Folk 72 V. Winchester, and the Isle of Wight . 86 VI. Village Life no VII. Wiltshire Downs and Salisbury Plain 134 VIII. In the New Forest 153 IX. Across Dorset 174 X. The Hills of Devon 194 XI. From Dartaioor to the Sea . 211 XII. On the North Devon Coast . 225 XIII. Somerset, and the Valley of the Wye 239 XIV. From Bath to Oxford, by the White Horse Vale 264 XV. The Thames Valley 284 Index 311 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. West Gate, and Falstaff Inn, Canterbury Frontispiece. Ruins of Battle Abbey Facing page 32 Shanklin Village, Isle of Wight " 96 Rural England " 178 Market-Place, Wells " 246 " Bath, with Abbey at the Left . 264 N OUR CYCLING TOUR IN ENGLAND. CHAPTER I. IN KENT. /^ATERHAM, Surrey, Monday, May 18, 1891. ^ We have been in England for a month, W and I, visiting friends in London and in suburban Surrey. It is most delightful, this inspection of English men and English women at close range, this enjoyment of their charming hospitality ; but the summer is now at hand, and it is necessary that we bestir ourselves from delicious idling if we are to carry out our programme of cycling through the southern and middle counties. Canterbury, Tuesday, 19th. "You excitable Amer- icans, you know, are always on the go, tearing up and down our little island, and we suppose there is no use at all of trying to induce you to stay quiet and enjoy yourselves." With such kind protests against our 6 1 Our Cycling Tour in England. transatlantic views of tourists' duty, we were bidden Godspeed. Our cycling muscles are weak after a winter of disuse, and it is always good policy to begin a wheeling tour cautiously. The Surrey hills are rather steep even for practised legs, and so we have come down here by train, to get an easy start over the Kentish plain. Canterbury, Thursday, 21st In spite of all we had read about Canterbury, it was a surprise to find it so interestingly quaint. The city is literally filled with old timbered shops and dwellings, their pro- jecting upper stories and doorposts and floors sadly out of plumb and level. Tavern-signs which smack of Elizabethan times abound on every hand, and the courtyards of some of the inns cannot have been materially altered since Shakespeare was in the flesh. So much of the olden architecture remains that in some of the blocks a modern building is no- ticeable from its rarity. The cathedral, St. Martin's Church, St. Dunstan's Church, St. Augustine's Mon- astery, St. Bartholomew's Hospital, West Gate, Fal- staff Inn, — such a cloud of antiquities and stirring memories here envelops one that it requires but slight effort of the imagination to repeople these narrow streets and darkling lanes with the throngs which sought Becket's shrine, and of whom Chaucer so merrily sung. Had we needed inspiration for the enjoyment of things enduringly English, we should certainly have gained it here. We have been busy packing to-night. Our cabin trunk goes by " goods train" to Alton, over in Hamp- shire, where we anticipate spending four or five days /;/ Kent. 17 with friends ; by sending it on ahead of us from time to time, we shall hope to get at its contents about every ten days. A stout canvas bag we book as a " " train parcel to Hastings ; as it contains changes of linen, our aim is to reach it perhaps twice each week. Upon our machines we shall carry luggage enough for immediate need. W , on her Ameri- can lady's-safety, has improvised a carrier just behind the saddle, which supports a goodly bundle carefully wrapped in a square of mackintosh ; and to her care, as well, falls the lunch -basket, also encased in rubber cloth, for one must prepare for possible daily showers while in the United Kingdom. On my own safety, purchased the other day from a Coventry maker, I have at front a newly devised cyclist's satchel, which is the best and most capacious luggage-carrier I have yet seen. Our two umbrellas are strapped length- wise on either side of the saddle, after the fashion of carbine-carriers on the English army cycles, while our mackintosh coats and leggings and my photo- graph camera are conveniently at hand. Our outfit is rather formidable, I admit; but as we are to be nearly two months away from our base of supplies, and must make ready for all manner of weather, ther- mometrically and barometrically, and with costumes adapted, as occasion demands, both to visiting and wheeling, I cannot see that we can well do with less. As I passed through the courtyard just now in the twilight, to arrange with the smiling bar- maid for an early breakfast, the ostler was rubbing down and oiling our steeds in a box stall, while the cham- ber-maid and " Boots" looked admiringly on over the half-door. " Tears to me, Joe," said Boots, " as 2 8 1 Our Cycling Tour in England. 'ow the lyedy an' gent 's a roonawye coople, an' 's carr'n' their 'ouse 'long wi' 'em." " Thee 's a born ijit, Dyve, thee be's," responded the ostler, contemptuously, as with a rheumatic sigh he arose and wiped his perspiring brow with the back of his shirt-sleeve ; " they 's reg'l'r nuff, but I heer'n Bill, the waiter, a-tell'n' o' Cook as 'ow he know'd 'em for 'Mericans immedjate, for the young missus ordered on a pitcher o' cold wahter at breakfas', — and that 's 'Merican every time, he says ; and he owght to know, as he 's served towrists oop in Wyles, where they set a joog o' wahter on every mornin' for breakfas', there 's so many 'Mericans as comes that wye. They drinks wahter wi' their victuals, and says ' pitcher ' w'en they means ' joog,' an' all that wye o' talkin' an' do'n', you know, though I un'erstan' as 'ow they pertends to talk English o'er there in 'Merica, but I be blymed if I can un'erstan' 'em mysel' soomtoimes. No, they 's 'Mericans, stryte 'noof, joost a-towerin' the coontry, loike ; an' 't 's moighty soon they '11 give it oop too, a-cartin' all this stoof areound." Ashford, Friday, 2 2d. The sun was shining brightly through our ancient latticed window when the maid aroused us this morning at Canterbury. The crackling fire on the coffee-room hearth was most cheering, for there had been frost in the air over night.
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