waterwayPROFILE

River Trent One of ’s greatest rivers, the Trent is an exciting challenge for boaters. Richard Fairhurst guides us through its

Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 90 navigable miles… www.waterwaysworld.com | OCTOBER 2015 | 57 History

The Trent has been navigated for millennia – perhaps since humans first arrived in these isles. For the Romans it was such an important artery that they cut the Fossdyke to join it to the Witham. Then, in Anglo-Saxon times, it was the Vikings’ route into the East Midlands: a map of Norse place names in Britain shows a deinite cluster around the Trent Valley. It’s all the more surprising, then, to learn that today’s Trent Navigation is a creature of the 1920s. As late as 1907, George Westall had described the river as being in a “deplorably bad state” (WW November 2012), so shallow that the current was corralled into narrow An early 1950s photo channels in the hope of scouring a fairway. showing a busy boat Enter Corporation, scene at Gainsborough. envious of Manchester’s success as an inland port. It funded four new, deep locks along the river, opening in This passage isn’t without diiculties. 1926. (A tidal had already been To reach the safety of the Yorkshire A tug and barge passing pleasure constructed at Cromwell, downstream waterways at Keadby Lock, the boater craft close to Cranfleet Lock in of Newark, in 1911.) The efect was must tackle a 44-mile tidal passage the late 1950s or early ’60s. dramatic: tonnages rose eight-fold below Cromwell. (Those with full- in a decade. Trains of 100-ton barges length craft, unable to pass the 61ft were worked down from Hull, carrying 8in Thorne Lock, are faced with the aggregates from riverside quarries and even more daunting prospect of a oil to power stations and town wharves. trip round to the Yorkshire Ouse.) Nonetheless, hundreds of Today crews successfully make the journey The tidal river is still an important freight every year, and accidents are rare. destination, but commercial traic Be prepared, but don’t be alarmed. is now rare above Cromwell. A 2001 Before you reach Cromwell, there are diversion from the main channel and proposal to build a ‘Newark bypass’, so 40 miles of non-tidal river and canal to one with quite the best-sited lock larger boats could reach Nottingham, enjoy. Canal? Yes, because the ‘Trent in Britain – of which more later. was never taken up. Instead, the river Navigation’ doesn’t actually follow the The mechanised river locks are has become an essential part of the river through Nottingham. Instead, it operated for you at the most popular pleasure-boating network – both for detours along the artiicial Beeston Cut times; self-operation is possible at its resident population of ibreglass and the remnants of the Nottingham other times with your trusty BW cruisers, and for narrowboaters Canal for a city centre voyage that adds (sorry, CRT) key. As with any large making the passage from the Midlands canal-scale interest to this otherwise river, moorings are limited, but some to the Yorkshire waterways. expansive cruise. Newark, too, is a pubs have pontoons for customers.

Sawley Lock. Cruising the River

Derwent Mouth – of just 2 miles after the Derwent delivers ’s waters. Nottingham These 2 miles are perhaps the busiest u 12 miles, 5 locks on the river, not just as a connection u Cruising time: 5 hours between two popular cruising routes (and part of the East Midlands Ring), but The Trent was once navigable all the way as the home of Sawley Marina, at 600 upstream to WW’s hometown of Burton- berths the biggest on the waterways. on-Trent, with canal connections in Burton Despite the on one lank (the Bond End Canal) and Swarkestone and the railway on (the Canal). Today, navigation starts the other, it’s a characterful spot, mostly incongruously at outside thanks to the attractive, paired Sawley , though sadly there are no Locks. When the locks are manned moorings at the excellent Old Crown pub. (usually by volunteers), watch the keeper This irst mile provides access to to see which chamber to go through. Shardlow Marina. Most people, though, Manoeuvring from the towpath to the will join at , the four-way ofside lock isn’t easy if you’ve stopped junction between the Trent, the Trent & close! At other times, you’ll need a CRT Mersey Canal, and the River Derwent. key for the push-button controls. An elegant new footbridge crosses The bustle is greatest at , the Trent just upstream, replacing an where the Soar arrives from the south, the unlovely 1930s concrete structure. from the north, and the The Trent picks up pace rapidly Trent Navigation continues on a surprisingly here. The brings it the rains small channel under a railway bridge – the Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 58 | OCTOBER 2015 | www.waterwaysworld.com Profile

Entering Cranfleet Lock.

Cranfleet Cut. An active sailing club adds to the commotion, together with banks Passing under a turnover of gongoozlers drawn by the Steamboat bridge at Beeston. and Trent Lock inns. It’s customary for cruising guides to warn of the dangers of being swept over Thrumpton Weir on the bypassed river channel, though nowadays the booms are so bright and the signage so strenuous that it seems superfluous. Dodging the dinghies brings you onto the calmer waters of the Cranfleet Cut with its resident boat club. Cranfleet Lock, manually operated, takes you down into a lovely, secluded 4-mile reach. Trees overhang the water, while the south bank is dotted with summer houses – everything from glorified huts to Scandinavian-style buildings on stilts. This will be your last glimpse of the Trent for two hours. At Beeston Lock, the weir prevents further progress. Boaters are required to lock up into the Beeston Cut, a rather suburban but pleasant enough canal whose main point of interest is the massive Boots factory on the north bank. This segues into the Nottingham Canal at Lenton Chain, so-called for the chain that once prevented Sunday boating on the cut. The Nottingham once ran north to meet the Erewash and Cromford canals by Great Northern Leaving Basin, and is today the last major derelict Trent Lock Cranfleet canal without a restoration society (see seen from the Cut through WW November/December 2011 for a Erewash Canal. flood gates. full survey). But the canal through the city centre, thankfully, remains navigable as part of our Trent through route. On the north bank, Trevethick’s has been a working boatyard since 1796. Owned by the same family since 1903, it specialises in historic craft: there’s invariably an array of boats old and new on water and bank. Half a mile on, Marina has a historic name but a decidedly modern setting, with a handy Sainsbury’s just beyond. This combination of ancient and modern characterises Nottingham’s canalside. The former Trent Navigation warehouse after Castle Lock is still painted with the name, Leaving Beeston Lock. a reminder that this remained a serious Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com www.waterwaysworld.com | OCTOBER 2015 | 59 Profile River Trent

Walking & cycling The is the river’s answer to the Thames Path and Severn Way, and runs from Trent Lock all the way to the . The slowly shifting Trent scenery is perhaps better experienced from the comforts of a boat at 5mph, so the path seems unlikely to ever gain the popularity of its forebears. Still, it gives an opportunity for enjoyable riverside walks from your mooring, particularly in the of-piste diversions away from the navigation. (More details: www.ontrent.org.uk.) Sustrans has done great work preserving disused rail viaducts along the Trent. Fledborough Viaduct is already open as a cycle route, while Torksey Viaduct is being reopened irst as a footpath with bike access to follow later. You can also follow quiet roads along the riverbank almost all the way from Gainsborough to Trent Falls, partly Leaving Castle Lock in the signposted as the National Byway route. centre of Nottingham. freight waterway after nationalisation. river port just below Lady Bay Bridge. longer in use. As well as canoes, you’re Wilford Street Bridge is all elegant ironwork, Inevitably, these now lie lattened, and likely to see tugs and barges in the lock while the sturdy Great Central Railway construction begins this autumn on 350 cut, and perhaps even the passenger viaduct now carries lightweight modern new homes. Wave at these last breaths of cruisers which ply this section of river. trams. The oices of carrying company the old city as you pass – for from here, These mechanised locks are worked Fellows, Morton & Clayton are still in use, the river assumes a much more rural air. for you during the daytime from April but now house a pub of the same name. to October. Passage is fairly smooth Strangest of all is the London Road Nottingham – Cromwell and quiet, even in the 12ft deep Holme power station. Built as a coal-ired plant u 28 miles, 6 locks Lock. (Other locks are more manageable by Boots in 1953, it now converts steam u Cruising time: 9 hours at 7ft rise.) As on the Severn, you’re from the nearby Eastcroft incinerator into expected to thread your ropes around electricity, powering much of the city. Canal Holme, on the outskirts of Nottingham, the poles in the chamber walls. water is used for cooling and returned is the busiest boating centre since Trent Rectory Junction railway viaduct warm – so don’t be surprised to see steam. Lock. Not with or cruisers, crosses just above Radclife-on-Trent. A 90° bend here takes you towards though. Just beyond the south bank It’s a startling structure: a single steel Meadow Lane Lock and the River Trent is the National Watersports Centre at arch above the navigation channel, once again, the canal shielded from Holme Pierrepont, and you can see the smaller brick arches to complete the river London Road itself by a high wall. Look spectacular canoe slalom as you await crossing, then concrete sections marching beyond Meadow Lane’s tidy, contemporary your turn in the lock. (Should you want to into the distance. Radclife itself barely surroundings and you’ll see more hidden experience a slaloming efect for yourself, impinges on the river of its name; even history – the Trent Carriers wharf on the you could always steer your boat into the the adjacent lock prefers to take its title north bank, the start of the Grantham weir pool, but we wouldn’t recommend it!) from the hamlet of Stoke Bardolph. You Canal to the south. (The latter is unlikely A massive concrete structure tops can moor above the lock, or half a mile to be reopened, the Grantham restorers Holme Weir, with the lock channel downstream by the Ferry Boat Inn. preferring a route that bypasses the city.) to the south. Between the two is the It’s here where the Trent settles into a Most evocative of all were the concrete original 1800 barge lock, superseded character that continues for almost all its hulks of Trent Basin, Nottingham’s own by the larger 1920s chamber and no journey north to the Humber. Low-lying

Leaving Holme Lock.

Former Fellows, Morton & Clayton oices in Nottingham. Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 60 | OCTOBER 2015 | www.waterwaysworld.com Passing Gunthorpe.

Dinghy at Holme Lock.

Gunthorpe Bridge .

Gunthorpe Lock.

farmland gives pleasant views over to riverside villages. Occasional DON’T MISS private moorings dot the banks, but locks are few and bridges between Nottingham and Newark, hardly more numerous. The vistas Okay, we’re a little late for this year’s Gunthorpe has become something of are rarely spectacular, but this is a unforgettable event at Trent Bridge. an inland resort. Just 700 people live handsome cruising river, especially Unforgettable, that is, unless you’re here, but the constant stream of boaters, on a balmy summer afternoon. Australian, in which case you’ll doubtless caravanners, walkers, (motor) bikers Gunthorpe is the most popular want to scrub it from your memory as and day-trippers keeps the five eating overnight mooring before Newark. soon as possible. But there can be few places in business. Expect to be the CRT pontoons give easy access to waterside locations with such a sporting centre of attention as you cruise past. the cluster of pubs and restaurants, heritage: not only the cricket ground, but or you can moor on the riverbank Newark Castle Meadow Lane stadium (home of Notts if they’re full. If you have the A ruin it may be, but what an imposing County) by the Nottingham Canal, and legs, moor here but walk to the sight it makes as you approach by water. the City Ground (Nottingham Forest) by pub at Caythorpe (see over). The shell of the castle looms over Newark Gunthorpe Lock opens out the old entrance to the . Town Lock, an ancient counterpoint to the onto the unusual 4-mile reach Pass through at a weekend, and chances wharves and warehouses that otherwise line to Hazelford. The east bank is are one of the three will be in action. the river. It’s rather more tame when you steep and wooded, while the Gunthorpe explore on foot, the well-mown grass and west bank’s meadows and gravel As the only road crossing of the Trent paved paths giving it a ‘municipal park’ feel. pitsDownloaded couldn’t be by flatter. David It’s A almost Calverley from waterwaysworld.com www.waterwaysworld.com | OCTOBER 2015 | 61 Profile River Trent Fiskerton’s attractive waterfront.

TOP 10 FOOD & DRINK STOPS 1. Victoria Hotel, Beeston A short walk from Beeston Lock (follow Trent Road, then cross the railway onto Dovecote Lane), the Vic is a characterful and welcoming alehouse serving massive portions of home-cooked food. Plan your journey so that you stop here overnight.

2. Canalhouse, Nottingham Though we mourn the loss of the Nottingham Canal Museum which once operated here, it has happily been reborn as an excellent pub under the stewardship of local operators Castle Rock. One-hundred and ifty bottled beers, a dozen ciders and canal views!

3. Trip to Jerusalem, Nottingham An evening at the ‘Trip’ is almost compulsory for any pub aicionado. Whether it really is the straight, too, in contrast to the wild While you’re in Newark, make oldest pub in Britain no one can say, but the meanders below Hazelford Lock. sure to buy a copy of the ‘Sissions’ claimed date of 1189 is plausible, and the location Fiskerton has an almost Charts published by The Boating in the shadow of Nottingham Castle peerless. Continental air, its houses (and the Association. Available from CRT Bromley Arms) facing the riverbank oices, Newark Marina, Farndon 4. Tom Brown’s, Gunthorpe where there are very limited pub Marina, Cromwell Lock and the A tidy contemporary brasserie in the moorings; narrowboats should be Association’s website, these are Trent’s own resort village. The early bird prepared to breast up. The river absolutely essential for the tidal menu is particularly good value, or there’s itself feels as if it’s imbibed one waterway beyond Cromwell. £20+ steak if you’re splashing out. too many from here to Averham, It’s also a good chance to ill swerving back and forth across a your tank with diesel ready for 5. Black Horse, Caythorpe largely contour-free landscape. the 44-mile passage ahead. Averham marks a change in The sharp bends at Newark An idyllically unfussy village inn, just a short character. The main channel drops Nether Lock form a pinch point walk across the ields from Gunthorpe, with over a long weir, the navigation for commercial traic on the Trent: a micro-brewery out the back. Book for continuing via the Newark Dyke/River the road and rail bridges make home-cooked lunch and evening meals. Devon into the town. This is much straightening impractical. From here narrower, so steer with the awareness it’s just 4 miles of easy freshwater 6. Bromley Arms, Fiskerton that you may meet a large passenger- cruising until the tideway begins. Modishly rebranded as ‘The Bromley’, this boat around the next bend. These riverside pub has perhaps the best location on trip-boats should ind rich pickings, Cromwell – Keadby the river. It’s food-centric but not too posh; you because Newark’s riverfront is u 44 miles, 1 lock can even take out a pizza to eat on the boat. fascinating. Warehouses for the u Cruising time: tide-dependent Trent Navigation Co and Newark 7. Fox & Crown, Newark Egg Packers, oices with ornate Cromwell Lock is only half a mile A second showing in the list for Castle Rock, frontages leading up to the Canal from the A1 road, but you wouldn’t and as good a pub as any in the town: old- & River Trust’s local HQ at the Kiln, guess. It’s a lonely, isolated spot, fashioned decor, great beer and friendly staf. wharves, marinas, a loating pub… with just the lock-keeper’s cottage and that castle. It’s all packed into just and the paraphernalia of navigation 8. White Swan, Torksey Lock a mile, so if your schedule permits, to interrupt the lat landscape. Chances are you’ll be overnighting at moor here and explore more fully. Yet this is a signiicant location: Torksey on your way down the tideway. The White Swan is a boaters’ favourite, a basic Heading through Newark. boozer just a short walk from the lock.

9. White Hart, If you’re taking in the Chesterield Canal, whether as an enjoyable diversion or just a safe haven from the tideway, this independent brew-pub (home to the Idle Brewery) has built up a ine reputation in recent years.

10. Ferry House, Burton-upon-Stather Sadly, there’s no longer a pub at Keadby nor nearby Althorpe. Instead, for our inal tidal watering hole we suggest the last waterside pub before the Humber. You won’t arrive here by boat unless you’re a seafarer visiting King’s Ferry Wharf, so drive, cycle, or walk, look out at the churning waters, and be grateful you don’t have to take your this way.

Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 62 | OCTOBER 2015 | www.waterwaysworld.com Approaching Newark Town Lock.

West Stockwith, entrance to the Chesterfield Canal.

the end of the freshwater Midlands Even so, the second leg to Keadby navigations, the entrance to the tidal is a long haul in itself, and you should waters of the Trent, Humber and Ouse. ask the keepers for a target arrival time Tidal river cruising is well within the – otherwise, you may arrive without ability of any moderately experienced enough water to get over the cill into the narrowboat or cruiser owner. Your boat lock. As a rule of thumb, in a narrowboat, does not need to be specially adapted, you will have less time than you expect; but you, and it, do need to be prepared. and since hanging around at Keadby There are several musts: an anchor, amid a fast-lowing tide is hardly attached and ready to go; lifejackets; a practical, it’s crucial that you get there fully charged mobile phone; the Sissions in time. If you’re setting of just before chart book for the Trent; and a full tank high water at Keadby, you should plan to of fuel. VHF radio is not required above make the passage to Torksey in four and Keadby: many strongly recommend a half hours, which mandates an average it, but bear in mind that you need an speed of 6mph. But ask the keepers’ operator’s licence to use a set. You advice – preferably more than one. should also take precautions to minimise The tidal cruise is an unusual the risk of engine failure: consider experience for the inland boater. Forget replacing your fuel ilters and cleaning any notions of mooring up at a friendly out your diesel tank. (March 2007’s pub: there are just three moorings, at WW has full details on tidal cruising.) Dunham, Torksey and Gainsborough. Above all, be aware of tide times. (You can, of course, also lock up The lock-keepers at Newark, Cromwell, onto the Chesterield Canal at West and the exits of the tidal river (Torksey, Stockwith.) The river has shallows West Stockwith and Keadby) will and silt banks, which is where your readily advise you. However, don’t Sissions charts come in: they advise expect them to answer questions on the best line to take around each you haven’t asked, nor to know the bend, pointing out landmarks towards capabilities of your boat or yourself. which you can steer your boat. The most common passage is from But don’t think that it’s all work and Cromwell to the Sheield & South no fun: this is an engrossing cruise. Yorkshire Navigation at Keadby, the You’ll see signs of commercial life, from entrance to the Yorkshire waterways. You the aggregate wharf at Besthorpe can also leave at West Stockwith for the (sadly closed in 2013) to the big ships Chesterield Canal. Before both of these manoeuvring at Keadby. The industry comes Torksey Lock, the entrance to the of power stations, railway viaducts Fossdyke Navigation. Just 17 miles after and wharves constrasts with the deep, Cromwell, it has good pontoon moorings. remote countryside that the river Narrowboats can’t make Cromwell to passes through. Mysterious pipelines Keadby in one tide, so Torksey ofers a empty through high banks as the river good place to wait for the next tide. takes unexplained twists and turns.

Torksey Lock, entrance to the Fossdyke.

Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com www.waterwaysworld.com | OCTOBER 2015 | 63 Profile River Trent

Power stations dot the northern sections of the river.

Gainsborough waterfront and Looking out from moorings. Keadby Lock.

Approaching the M180 bridge near Keadby.

Miles go by without a single bridge. getting into the lock against And through all this, your boat the eforts of a tide determined NAVIGATION NOTES motors at twice its canal speed. to sweep you out to sea. The only signiicant settlement en Standard practice, approaching DIMENSIONS route is Gainsborough, a town with from upstream, is to continue just Derwent Mouth to Meadow Lane: Length a proud Trent trading history. It’s past the lock entrance – which can 72ft, beam 14ft, headroom 8ft here that the governance of the river be diicult to spot, especially at Meadow Lane to Cromwell: Length 145ft, changes from CRT to Associated Keadby – then turn immediately beam 18ft, draught 6ft, headroom 12ft British Ports, not that this means through 180°. Push the tide until Below Cromwell: Length/beam unrestricted, much on the open water. The town you return to the lock entrance, and draught 6ft+ (tide-dependent), headroom 22ft doesn’t have the brightest reputation turn in. An alternative approach among boaters, yet it does have its is to turn 180° before the lock NAVIGATION AUTHORITY defenders (Waterlines, WW January entrance, then reduce your speed Above Gainsborough: Canal & River Trust 2013), so make your own decision. until the tide pushes you gently (East Midlands), 0303 040 4040 Without doubt, though, the most back. This has much to commend Below Gainsborough: ABP Humber, 01482 327171 enjoyable places to ‘stop’ are actually it, especially in lower-powered the two canals along the way – the boats, but a moored coaster at WATERWAY SOCIETIES Chesterield and Fossdyke. If you’re Keadby can make it diicult. Inland Waterways Association: in no hurry, and anxious about Breathe out as you pass through Notts & Derbys Branch (non-tidal), South Yorks the long tidal journey, consider the lock-gates: you’ve made it. Time & Dukeries (tidal), www.waterways.org.uk voyaging along these two lengthy to start planning your return journey… The Boating Association: cul-de-sacs. The Chesterield is www.theboatingassociation.org.uk one of the most underrated rural Note that boats over 61ft wanting canals in Britain, while the Fossdyke access to the Yorkshire waterways MAPS & GUIDES gives access to historic Lincoln. will be limited by Thorne Lock on Trent Charts (‘Sissions’): Chart 1 (Nottingham– Assuming you’ve locked out of the Stainforth & Keadby Canal. Cromwell) and Chart 2 (Cromwell–Trent Falls), Cromwell safely, paused at Torksey, This necessitates a trip via the published by The Boating Association and arrived at West Stockwith mouth of the river at Trent Falls, Nicholsons Guide: 6 (Nottingham, or Keadby, you might think your which is beyond the scope of York, and the North-East) tidal passage is accomplished. Not this article and should only be Richlow Guide: Narrowboat on the Trent quite. There is one inal challenge: attempted by the experienced. Downloaded by David A Calverley from waterwaysworld.com 64 | OCTOBER 2015 | www.waterwaysworld.com