Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada James Bay and Hudson Bay Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Warren Allmand, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1977 QS-7042-000-EE-AI Les releves de la serie «Les rivieres sauvages» sont egalement publies en francais. Canada Canada metric metrique Wild Rivers: James Bay and Hudson Bay Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1977 2 Casting a line in the Rupert River, Quebec. 3 'It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames." Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4 ©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild Rivers Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1977 series: mm-millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and A Iberta m-metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services Quebec North Shore km-kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A0S9, or through Saskatchewan km/h—kilometres per hour your bookseller. Yukon Territory d-day(s) DC-degree Celsius Catalogue No.: R62-82-1977-5 Soon to be available: ISBN. 0-660-00782-7 Central British Columbia Northwest Mountains Price Canada: $1.50 The Barrenlands Price other countries: $1.80 Southwestern Quebec and Price subject to change without notice Eastern Ontario Labrador and Newfoundland 5 Table of Contents Foreword 6 4 Missinaibi and Moose Rivers 33 The Wild Rivers of 5 Rupert River 41 James Bay and Hudson Bay 8 Climate 8 6 L'Eau Claire River 51 Planning the trip 9 Further Reading 60 Map of Wild Rivers of James Bay and Hudson Bay 10 1 Fawn and Severn Rivers 11 2 Attawapiskat River 19 3 Ogoki and Albany Rivers 25 6 Foreword Wild rivers are a priceless part of our throughout the vast interior of the natural heritage. Untouched by the continent. The settlers who followed march of man's technological progress, travelled the same routes. these waterways are the arteries of The waterways were the mainstay our land, and one of the main elements of the fur trade; they were the highways in its growth to nationhood. to the gold rushes. They did much Long before Europeans laid eyes on to provide the economic nourishment them, these rivers served the native through which Canada grew to its peoples as sources of food and means present stature. of transportation. Later, the rivers With the advent of modern technol­ were to carry the Europeans on voy­ ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed ages of exploration and exploitation to serve our newfound needs. But thousands of kilometres of waterways, and the land they pass through, remain essentially untouched. 7 Today, Canadians are gradually anxious prospectors toward the prom­ Although "wild" is used to describe rediscovering these fascinating wild ise of gold. rivers not yet harnessed to industry, rivers. They are recreating the Parks Canada is promoting these it is an apt adjective, for many of the adventures of the explorers; struggling challenging voyages of discovery, rivers should be challenged only by over the same portages as the heavily- which embrace both the past and the experienced and well-equipped burdened "coureurs de bois"; present. canoeists. running rapids which once hurtled However, a good deal of down-to- "voyageurs" and their precious cargoes earth information about the rivers and toward the markets of Montreal; their characteristics is needed before gently floating down majestic rivers anyone attempts to navigate them. It is which once carried thousands of for this reason that Parks Canada decided to carry out surveys of wild rivers all across the country. The result is this series of booklets, designed to provide a practical guide for the modern "voyageur". 8 The Wild Rivers of James Bay and Climate Hudson Bay The rivers flowing into James Bay and The lakes and rivers in this area are Hudson Bay are of two different kinds. ice-free from May until December. The west shore rivers descend from The average annual rainfall is above the Precambrian Shield in a series of 500 mm, most of it falling in the sum­ rapids becoming wide shallow rivers as mer. Therefore quality rain gear and they wind their way across the marine waterproofing are essential on canoe clay of the Hudson Bay Lowlands. trips. The average July temperature is For the final 160 km these rivers flow 14°C and summer temperatures in the through extensive mud banks and mid-twenties can be expected. flat terrain. The east shore rivers, in contrast, flow in a disorganized and complex pattern through lakes and bogs lying on top of the very old granite of northern Quebec. 9 Planning the Trip In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 to A sturdy canoe capable of handling matches, fishhooks and line, and emer­ 30 km a day paddling. Allow extra well in rapids, and equipment for its gency rescue flares for signalling time and food for such unforeseen repair are essential. Aluminum canoes aircraft. These items should be well events as being windbound or delayed were used throughout the surveys waterproofed; if the kit is small it could by rain. and proved most practical. Since lining be worn on your belt. If egress is to be by plane, make and hauling are often necessary, Firearms are never necessary. Insect sure arrangements are taken care of several pairs of high-cut running shoes repellent and headnets are necessary before the trip begins. Be sure to check or other sturdy footwear, which can in these areas and mosquito coils are out with some responsible agency, take the abuse of rocks and being useful. Tucking in pant cuffs and tying (the R.C.M.P. or the Ministry of Natural constantly wet, are needed. shirt cuffs closed can be very helpful. Resources), giving them a route and In the more isolated regions carry­ The National Topographic Series expected time of arrival. And don't ing an emergency survival kit is of maps is available from: forget to check in with them at the end advised. The kit should contain high Canada Map Office, of the trip! energy food rations, waterproofed 615 Booth Street, Permits for fires and fishing may Ottawa, Ontario, be required. Extreme caution should K1A0E9 be exercised in the use of fire. Camp- fires should be built only on rock or sand and extinguished completely. All garbage should be packed out with you. 10 11 1 Fawn and Severn Rivers 12 Fawn and Severn Rivers Access and egress Maps required Angling Lake to Fort Severn Angling Lake may be reached by a (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) chartered float plane from Pickle Lake 53 H Ashewely River Length on Highway 599. Big Trout Lake, 53 I Fawn River 7 to 14 d* (400 km) south of Angling Lake serves as an 43 L Clendenning River 6 portages alternate starting point. A nursing 53 P Dickey River station, a Hudson's Bay Company 43 M Fort Severn Date of survey store and radio communications are 54 A Black Duck River August, 1973 available at Big Trout Lake. The 44 D Black Duck River only transport out of Fort Severn is chartered float plane. Flights from Big Trout Lake will lift canoeists to Moosonee where the Polar Bear Express train offers transportation to major settlements. Alternatively, one may fly to Pickle Lake and use high­ way 599 for a route home. * d is the metric symbol for day(s). 13 About the river Geography Flora Severn. Moose, caribou, and wolves The clear waters of the Fawn River The swamp is covered with moss and seem to be quite common as are lynx, flow 110 km from Angling Lake over supports a small growth of black bear, beaver and otter. Waterfowl, Precambrian rock, dropping 10 m spruce and tamarack. The better timber especially ducks and Canada geese, in elevation in this distance. The is found growing on and around the are commonly sighted. In the bay landscape is flat and poorly drained hillsides. Alder and willow cover the beyond Fort Severn polar bears and with only a few rocky knobs rising river banks, Jackpine, balsam, white beluga whales are often seen. above the moss. spruce, trembling aspen, and birch are Beyond the Canadian Shield the present in the upper reaches but History river cuts banks up to 30 m deep species change to stunted black Historically, the Fawn River is of no through deep marine clays left by the spruce, balsam, poplar and tamarack, more than local interest but the Severn recession of Hudson Bay. Shortly as one approaches the river's mouth. had some importance as a fur trade before entering the Severn River, the route. Its shallowness and the avail­ river cuts to the limestone bedrock. Fauna ability of better routes in the area have Beyond the river banks, one can see Fishing is not highly rewarding in kept it from being a vital link.