Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada James Bay and Hudson Bay Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Warren Allmand, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1977 QS-7042-000-EE-AI

Les releves de la serie «Les rivieres sauvages» sont egalement publies en francais.

Canada Canada metric metrique Wild Rivers: James Bay and Hudson Bay

Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1977 2

Casting a line in the Rupert River, Quebec. 3

'It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an im­ mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as completely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames."

Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4

©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild Rivers Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1977 series: mm-millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and A Iberta m-metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services Quebec North Shore km-kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A0S9, or through Saskatchewan km/h—kilometres per hour your bookseller. Yukon Territory d-day(s) DC-degree Celsius Catalogue No.: R62-82-1977-5 Soon to be available: ISBN. 0-660-00782-7 Central British Columbia Northwest Mountains Price Canada: $1.50 The Barrenlands Price other countries: $1.80 Southwestern Quebec and Price subject to change without notice Eastern Ontario Labrador and Newfoundland 5 Table of Contents

Foreword 6 4 Missinaibi and Moose Rivers 33

The Wild Rivers of 5 Rupert River 41 James Bay and Hudson Bay 8 Climate 8 6 L'Eau Claire River 51 Planning the trip 9 Further Reading 60 Map of Wild Rivers of James Bay and Hudson Bay 10

1 Fawn and Severn Rivers 11

2 Attawapiskat River 19

3 Ogoki and Albany Rivers 25 6 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our throughout the vast interior of the natural heritage. Untouched by the continent. The settlers who followed march of man's technological progress, travelled the same routes. these waterways are the arteries of The waterways were the mainstay our land, and one of the main elements of the fur trade; they were the highways in its growth to nationhood. to the gold rushes. They did much Long before Europeans laid eyes on to provide the economic nourishment them, these rivers served the native through which Canada grew to its peoples as sources of food and means present stature. of transportation. Later, the rivers With the advent of modern technol­ were to carry the Europeans on voy­ ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed ages of exploration and exploitation to serve our newfound needs. But thousands of kilometres of waterways, and the land they pass through, remain essentially untouched. 7

Today, Canadians are gradually anxious prospectors toward the prom­ Although "wild" is used to describe rediscovering these fascinating wild ise of gold. rivers not yet harnessed to industry, rivers. They are recreating the Parks Canada is promoting these it is an apt adjective, for many of the adventures of the explorers; struggling challenging voyages of discovery, rivers should be challenged only by over the same portages as the heavily- which embrace both the past and the experienced and well-equipped burdened "coureurs de bois"; present. canoeists. running rapids which once hurtled However, a good deal of down-to- "voyageurs" and their precious cargoes earth information about the rivers and toward the markets of Montreal; their characteristics is needed before gently floating down majestic rivers anyone attempts to navigate them. It is which once carried thousands of for this reason that Parks Canada decided to carry out surveys of wild rivers all across the country. The result is this series of booklets, designed to provide a practical guide for the modern "voyageur". 8 The Wild Rivers of James Bay and Climate Hudson Bay

The rivers flowing into James Bay and The lakes and rivers in this area are Hudson Bay are of two different kinds. ice-free from May until December. The west shore rivers descend from The average annual rainfall is above the Precambrian Shield in a series of 500 mm, most of it falling in the sum­ rapids becoming wide shallow rivers as mer. Therefore quality rain gear and they wind their way across the marine waterproofing are essential on canoe clay of the Hudson Bay Lowlands. trips. The average July temperature is For the final 160 km these rivers flow 14°C and summer temperatures in the through extensive mud banks and mid-twenties can be expected. flat terrain. The east shore rivers, in contrast, flow in a disorganized and complex pattern through lakes and bogs lying on top of the very old granite of northern Quebec. 9

Planning the Trip

In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 to A sturdy canoe capable of handling matches, fishhooks and line, and emer­ 30 km a day paddling. Allow extra well in rapids, and equipment for its gency rescue flares for signalling time and food for such unforeseen repair are essential. Aluminum canoes aircraft. These items should be well events as being windbound or delayed were used throughout the surveys waterproofed; if the kit is small it could by rain. and proved most practical. Since lining be worn on your belt. If egress is to be by plane, make and hauling are often necessary, Firearms are never necessary. Insect sure arrangements are taken care of several pairs of high-cut running shoes repellent and headnets are necessary before the trip begins. Be sure to check or other sturdy footwear, which can in these areas and mosquito coils are out with some responsible agency, take the abuse of rocks and being useful. Tucking in pant cuffs and tying (the R.C.M.P. or the Ministry of Natural constantly wet, are needed. shirt cuffs closed can be very helpful. Resources), giving them a route and In the more isolated regions carry­ The National Topographic Series expected time of arrival. And don't ing an emergency survival kit is of maps is available from: forget to check in with them at the end advised. The kit should contain high Canada Map Office, of the trip! energy food rations, waterproofed 615 Booth Street, Permits for fires and fishing may Ottawa, Ontario, be required. Extreme caution should K1A0E9 be exercised in the use of fire. Camp- fires should be built only on rock or sand and extinguished completely. All garbage should be packed out with you. 10 11

1 Fawn and Severn Rivers 12

Fawn and Severn Rivers Access and egress Maps required

Angling Lake to Fort Severn Angling Lake may be reached by a (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) chartered float plane from Pickle Lake 53 H Ashewely River Length on Highway 599. Big Trout Lake, 53 I Fawn River 7 to 14 d* (400 km) south of Angling Lake serves as an 43 L Clendenning River 6 portages alternate starting point. A nursing 53 P Dickey River station, a Hudson's Bay Company 43 M Fort Severn Date of survey store and radio communications are 54 A Black Duck River August, 1973 available at Big Trout Lake. The 44 D Black Duck River only transport out of Fort Severn is chartered float plane. Flights from Big Trout Lake will lift canoeists to Moosonee where the Polar Bear Express train offers transportation to major settlements. Alternatively, one may fly to Pickle Lake and use high­ way 599 for a route home.

* d is the metric symbol for day(s). 13

About the river

Geography Flora Severn. Moose, caribou, and wolves The clear waters of the Fawn River The swamp is covered with moss and seem to be quite common as are lynx, flow 110 km from Angling Lake over supports a small growth of black bear, beaver and otter. Waterfowl, Precambrian rock, dropping 10 m spruce and tamarack. The better timber especially ducks and Canada geese, in elevation in this distance. The is found growing on and around the are commonly sighted. In the bay landscape is flat and poorly drained hillsides. Alder and willow cover the beyond Fort Severn polar bears and with only a few rocky knobs rising river banks, Jackpine, balsam, white beluga whales are often seen. above the moss. spruce, trembling aspen, and birch are Beyond the Canadian Shield the present in the upper reaches but History river cuts banks up to 30 m deep species change to stunted black Historically, the Fawn River is of no through deep marine clays left by the spruce, balsam, poplar and tamarack, more than local interest but the Severn recession of Hudson Bay. Shortly as one approaches the river's mouth. had some importance as a fur trade before entering the Severn River, the route. Its shallowness and the avail­ river cuts to the limestone bedrock. Fauna ability of better routes in the area have Beyond the river banks, one can see Fishing is not highly rewarding in kept it from being a vital link. the vast expanses of muskeg that are these areas — speckled trout are the The Hudson's Bay Company post typical of the Hudson Bay Lowlands. prime species in the upland areas. at Fort Severn was established in 1680 The rivers are quite shallow, with Pike and pickerel are available in the and changed hands at least four boulder and gravel fields occurring times between the French and English regularly. In the Severn River the traders. shorelines vary from steep newly- formed cutbanks to gently sloping floodbanks with occasional boulder and cobble beaches. 14

The Canoe Trip

Big Trout Lake to Little Otter River Owing to the extreme flatness of the At Angling Lake low banks and a (85 km) surrounding country (heights of more dense coniferous covering dominate From Big Trout Lake the Fawn River than five metres are rare) the river the topography. Angling Lake Village flows northeast along the Hudson Bay spreads at a bedrock ridge and flows on the north side of the 13 km long watershed. For the first 100 km the in several shallow channels. In sections lake is inhabited by 150 Indians. Here Fawn River traverses terrain charac­ like this the width of the river increases the Fawn River continues through a teristic of the Canadian Shield and from an average of 35 m to as much narrow channel. most of central Northern Ontario. At as 135 m. For the next 85 km the Fawn River Big Trout Lake Precambrian bedrock A very dense willow and alder runs through dense, low lying muskeg is exposed at the surface in large flat undergrowth along the river banks territory. There are two campsites, shelves at the side of the river, while makes campsites difficult to find. Along indicated by granite outcroppings, on below Angling Lake it lies below the river, there is a series of cleared the left shore 10 km below Angling a thin moss and muskeg cover only a campsites made by Indians for winter Lake. All the rapids of the Fawn River metre thick. Because of the thinness trapline camps. There are the best are in the first 85 km. One must navi­ of this cover, the river, having cut campsites in terms of size and level- gate with caution here because the down to the bedrock, has banks only ness but they harbour incredible topographical maps do not present the one metre high. In this first 100 km numbers of black flies and mosquitoes. rapids accurately. there are 24 rapids and falls caused Sixteen kilometres from Angling by ridges of gneiss crossing the river. Lake is the first set of rapids. These are not marked on the topographical map. This set is easily run on the left. 15

From these rapids to the first rapids Three kilometres below the first The river between here and the marked on the topographic maps, marked rapids one encounters a ledge rapids marked just above Ashaway two campsites are available on the of 2.5 m which is also marked by a bar Falls is wide with low dense banks of right shore. The first is 22 km below on the map. This ledge may be lined muskeg. The rapids above Ashaway Angling Lake and is marked by a on the right or avoided by two trails Falls are formed by exposed rock and granite outcropping. The next is 8 km on the left marked by grassy openings. may be lined on the right. downstream from the first camp­ The first trail, 490 m long, ends at the Ashaway Falls is a four-metre drop. site and is indicated by a 1 50 cm sand bottom of the rapids. The other trail The trail begins on the right at a grass bank on the right shore. Here one is a 20 m carry which avoids the clearing. It stretches for 180 m over passes through a set of unmarked main ledge. After the carry one may rock outcroppings and so is difficult to rapids. shoot through the high standing waves. follow. It terminates in a small cove. The first marked rapid is actually a Thirteen kilometres downstream One point five kilometres below the ledge which drops five metres. The from this ledge are the falls and rapids falls there are two sets of unmarked 120 m portage is on the right and marked on the map. The portage rapids. The first of these may be run on is in good condition. A grassy opening around the falls begins at a grass the left, but the second is a 125 m at two rock outcroppings marks the opening on an island in the middle of ledge, and should be lined or portaged. trail. the river channel. It extends for 20 m over broken ground. The 2.5 m drop is quite spectacular. The rapids, 1.5 km below the falls, end in a wider section of river marked by a sand bank on the left. 16

Three kilometres below these rapids the river widens and a campsite is located on the left shore among a stand of tall black spruce. Unmarked fast water continues for 13 km below Ashaway Falls to a drop marked as a falls on the map. The falls is actually a series of small ledges cutting the river into islands. They present a kilometre of challenging paddling. No trail was found. Crandall Falls is avoided by a port­ age of 70 m on the left. The marked sets of rapids below Crandall Falls are small ledges and boulder fields. Proceed with caution here because the rapids are not notice­ able and navigation may become con­ fused. There are no points of reference to aid in the navigation and identifi­ cation of the area.

Above Ashaway Falls, upper Fawn River, Ontario. 17

The rapid marked on the map just Little Otter River to confluence with the Severn River. Here the river downstream of the 500 foot (152.4 m) with Severn River (234 km) has cut right down to the limestone contour is a ledge which may be run Below the last rapid, 8 km upstream floor, leaving the impression that the or lined on the left side. The channel from the Little Otter River, the geo­ river bed has been paved. Because winds around a corner to the left. Trails logical and physiographic features of the muskeg terrain and vegetation, were not found in this area. change rapidly. The last rapid marks campsites are few and far between. The last set of rapids in this section the final step from Canadian Shield It is important to note that while every­ of the Fawn River is marked on the and its Precambrian bedrock into the where in this region, the mosquitoes maps and is a 75 cm drop over a ledge. Hudson Bay Lowlands. Once off the and black flies were bothersome, on It may be lined through the middle or Shield one finds sedimentary lime­ this section of the Fawn River they walked around on a 20 m trail marked stone covered with deep marine clays. were particularly bad. Head nets were by a grass clearing on the left. The same glacial activity that levelled necessary even while canoeing and Ten kilometres downriver one and scoured the shield left vast areas once on shore it was impossible to sit reaches the confluence of the Fawn of tills and boulder pavement. This, outside the tents. and Little Otter Rivers. A large clearing along with the marine clays, form an It is recommended that anyone with on the right side upstream from the overburden of over 30 m through any reaction to insect bites avoid this Little Otter River provides excellent which the river has cut, exposing wide river. camping. flood banks and high steep cliffs which are constantly being eroded. The river flows 5 to 6 km/h over a cobble bed. With the exception of shallow shoals, there are no rapids until Caribou Rapids near the confluence 18

Confluence of Fawn and rapids are about 1.5 km long and very Severn Rivers to Fort Severn difficult because of their size. Very (100 km) fast water, six-metre ledges, waves From the junction of the Fawn and over two metres high and the 1 km Severn Rivers to Fort Severn the char­ wide river made this a dangerous acter of the river does not change rapid. except for the magnitude. While the In the last 80 km, weather is a Fawn River was a uniform 50 m wide, noticeable factor. At high tide a heavy the Severn widened to 500 m increas­ fog, caused by cold air from the ice ing to 8 km at Fort Severn. pack meeting the relatively warm In this last section there are two sets water of the river, moves in along the of rapids. What is marked 'Limestone coastal area. This results in very chilly Rapids' on the map was a fast stretch and uncomfortable canoeing condi­ of very deep water near the right bank. tions and also plays an important The last set (not marked on the maps) factor in flying arrangements at Fort is 56 km from the mouth of the Fawn Severn. River, and is marked by spectacular After the limestone sections the limestone islands. Large fossils were Severn reverts to sand banks as far as found imbedded in the flat rock. The Fort Severn. Here radio communica­ tions are available at the Hudson's Bay Company store. 185 Indians make up the population of Fort Severn. 19

2 Attawapiskat River 20

Attawapiskat River Access and egress Maps required

Missisa River to Attawapiskat Village The access point on the river is the (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) site of three abandoned buildings at 43 F Matateto River Length the confluence of the Attawapiskat and 43 C Missisa Lake 4to8d (205 km) Missisa Rivers. The only way one can 43 B Kapikau River 2 portages reach this point is by chartered aircraft from Moosonee, or Nakina. From Date of survey Attawapiskat there are twice weekly Late August, 1973, at low water level scheduled flights back to Moosonee. 21

About the river

The Attawapiskat has been documented remains as Hudson Bay. The banks but grasses and reeds occur in the by Doctor Robert Bell of the Geolog­ and bed of the river at these points shallows. ical Survey of Canada in 1886 and in consist of limestone debris. The river an unpublished report written for the has cut through the strata carving Fauna Water Resources Division, Ontario sheer cliffs and overhangs. The result This area is generally uninhabited by Water Resources Commission in 1966. is probably the most beguiling scenery man and canoeing through it provides These reports are quite complete in the James Bay Lowland for the river an excellent opportunity to see many and useful. drops over limestone ledges and undisturbed animals at close range. rushes between myriads of islands. At Bears wander among flowers and ber­ Geography places the river is often over a kilo­ ries on the banks all along the route. The Attawapiskat River begins in the metre wide and only 25 to 50 cm deep. Beavers also find good feeding along Precambrian Shield and then flows the banks. White fish, suckers, pike through the James Bay Lowland, Flora and others are found here and sturgeon a poorly drained area of extensive On the well drained soils, black spruce, is abundant further up the river. muskeg and bog. tamarack, balsam, aspen, and white In the Lowlands the banks are gen­ birch are common, but on wet level History erally composed of boulder clay, and tracts it is principally black spruce. Because of the difficulty involved in slope gently down to the water level. Poplar occurs near the streams but is navigating this river, it never became The topography of the country is low seldom seen inland. Alders and an important artery of trade. The and level. willows line the bank in most areas, village of Attawapiskat, with a popu­ In a number of places, the river lation of 500, is not historically crosses large exposures of limestone. significant. This material has been deposited in strata under an ancient sea which now 22

The Canoe Trip

Missisa River to 52°55'N lat. 83°56'W long. At the confluence of the Missisa and Attawapiskat Rivers lies an abandoned Hudson's Bay Company post. Three buildings still stand. From the Missisa to 52°55'N 83°56'W only one section of limestone rock was observed. This limestone area stretched for 6.5 km from 84°31'W 53°05'N. The river is bounded by six-metre walls of lime­ stone. The current passes swiftly over a shallow rock channel dotted by limestone islands. Numerous fossils lie in the limestone. The geography of the remainder of this section of the river is uniform. The banks of alluvial till are consis­ tently low. The river flows through a wide shallow channel over numerous gravel bars. Campsites are not abun­ dant. The openess of the river coupled with a strong head wind may make paddling laborious.

Limestone cliffs along the Attawapiskat River, Ontario. 23

52°55'N 83°56'W to 52°56 N At 83°49'W lies the next area of Three kilometres downstream, be 83°09'W limestone, stretching for 8 km and careful to avoid the Lawashi Channel, At 83°56'W one encounters the first forming another labyrinth of channels and stay in the main channel of the substantial section of limestone, and rapids. Rock faces rise 20 m Attawapiskat. By running the three sets stretching 6.5 km. The current here vertically, and the scenery is unique of rapids on the left side one will be although swift, does not create any and magnificent. The rapids in this assured of the correct channel. The rapids. The left channel of the river has section are not difficult. first of these rapids is shallow and not the more interesting geological for­ For 10 km below the limestone area, difficult to run. The final rapid in the mations. A number of caverns may the river resumes a sluggish pace left channel is a three-metre drop over be explored which could yield discov­ characteristic of rivers of the James a series of ledges, and it may be ne­ eries of fossils or perhaps animal Bay Lowlands. At 83°36'W, limestone cessary to line if the water level is low. dens. Below the limestone area the outcrops again form a ledge rapid. The middle seems to be best for river flows for 13 km through regions This rapid, which is marked on the running these drops. The river quickly of islands and banks made up of topographic maps may be run in the approaches James Bay after the last alluvial material. The vegetation of the centre, or be lined along the right set of rapids. banks exhibits signs of ice scarring. shore. Five kilometres downstream there is another area of limestone and fast water. Campsites are readily available. 24

52°56'N 85°09'W to Attawapiskat Village In this section of the river, the channel widens and becomes shallower. Gravel shoals under the water result in a fast current and produce many opportuni­ ties for running aground. The banks of alluvial till are about six metres high, and in places there has been severe bank slumping. Campsites are not abundant in this area. At the village of Attawapiskat scheduled flights are available twice a week to Moosonee. Canoes may be shipped through the Hudson's Bay Company by barge to Moosonee and from there via Ontario Northland Railroad to southern destinations. 25

3 Ogoki and Albany Rivers 26

Ogoki and Albany Rivers Access and egress Maps required

Kayedon Lake to Ghost River The Ogoki River may be reached by (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) chartered plane from Nakina. Nakina 42 L Nakina Length is located at the end of the road 65 km 42 M Ft. Hope 10 to 16 d (453 km) north of Geraldton on Highway 534. 42 N Ogoki 8 to 12 portages This town is on the route of all CN 42 0 Ghost River trains west from Capreol, North Bay Date of survey and Cochrane. In Nakina there is a A note of caution — July, 1973, at medium water level hospital clinic, telephones, post office, the Ogoki River is made up of 42 hotels, a restaurant, a Ministry of rapids, chutes and boulder fields. Natural Resources office, a Hudson's Whitewater canoeing experience is Bay Company post, outfitters and essential for the navigation of this three airline companies. river. Egress is by float plane only. Ar­ rangements may be made in Nakina to fly from Ogoki Post, Fort Albany or other points on the river to Moosonee or Nakina. There are also a few sched­ uled flights from Ogoki Post. 27

About the river

Geography Flora Fish are plentiful. The Albany sup­ The river begins in a rock-ringed lake The forest cover, seen from the air, ports pike, pickerel and sturgeon, and gradually descends towards seems to exist solely along the banks as well as trout in deep pools near the the edge of the Canadian Shield. Rock of the major rivers. In the upper Ogoki, outlets of the cooler tributaries. ridges appear throughout this area, deciduous trees such as birch, poplar A variety of ducks, geese, loons, creating waterfalls, rapids and chutes. and aspen dominate. Below Eby Falls, osprey and bald eagles, ravens, terns At Eby Falls the river makes one last this balance changes in favour of the and gulls can be seen on larger lakes. large drop and leaves the rocky ledges conifers; black spruce and balsam Small shorebirds are plentiful. of the Shield behind. dominate with some poplar, birch and The river cuts a much wider channel aspen. On the Albany, this balance History through the clay and stones of the stays about the same, with a few con­ The Ogoki River is too difficult to Hudson Bay Lowland area. This region centrations of poplar. navigate to ever have been a trade is flat and low with little more topo­ route. However, the lower Albany River graphy than the high river banks. At Fauna is part of a major fur trade route to Kayedon Lake, the Ogoki River is 12 m Northern fauna abound. Moose, mink, the coast. The Hudson's Bay post at wide. At the confluence of the Ogoki fox, squirrel, chipmunk, and muskrat Ogoki, and the names of many aban­ and Albany Rivers, the river is 34 m were observed during the survey, and doned towns are evidence of this. wide. This gradually widens to 1 km local people told of hunting caribou On the whole there are few portage at Ghost River. Flow rates and seasonal near Ogoki. trails, indicating that history has pas­ variations are controlled by a dam at sed by without leaving its mark. the Ogoki Reservoir and one on the Albany River. The variation is no more than one point five metres. 28

The Canoe Trip

Kayedon Lake to Eby Falls are mainly boulder fields. In the lower The next difficult section is 1.5 km Seventy-four kilometres to the west of parts the rapids are often chutes below Esser Lake. The rapids are best Kayedon Lake on the Ogoki River is the through gaps in horizontal ridges. Often run on the right side just above the Ogoki reservoir, where a control dam portaging or lining is necessary. The falls. A portage of 140 m on the left diverts a substantial portion of the river in this section varies from 10 side leads around the falls. It begins waterflow south to Lake Nipigon. Ogoki to 30 m in width. just above the first ledge at a rock Lake acts to stabilize the water level Speckled Trout Rapids are the first outcrop. Campsites are readily avail­ to the east of this point so the effects rapids encountered one point five able, with good speckled trout and of this diversion are kept at a kilometres below Kayedon Lake. The walleye fishing. minimum. rapids are 1.5 km long, consisting The next set of rapids indicated on Between Kayedon Lake and Eby of ledges and boulder fields. There topographical maps lies 2.5 km below Falls there is little soil cover over the does not seem to be a portage trail. the falls. This ledge is best lined on Precambrian rock of the Canadian At Patience Lake the river splits into the right side. One kilometre down­ Shield. Smooth rock out-croppings two channels, with the south channel stream, boulder fields not marked on take up a quarter of the surface area being the easier route. Two rapids the maps may be run on the right side around the river providing outstanding are encountered upon entering the of two islands. scenery and excellent campsites. south channel. The first set is best The next section of rapids is indi­ The flats up to 15 m wide to each side run on the right side. The second is an cated on the map by the word 'rapid' of the river are due partly to the lower­ easily run boulder field. occurring twice. These ledges may be ing of the water level affected by the run or portaged as the rapids range dam and partly to the natural seasonal from easy to difficult. No trails exist, fluctuations of the water level. In the but carries over rock surfaces are not upper part of this section the rapids difficult; the longest carry is 20 m. An island three kilometres down­ stream divides the next set of rapids. 29

The left side seems to be the best to run. The channel forms a dogleg to the right so care must be taken. Boulder fields occur in five groups further downstream. Manoeuvring in this water is enjoyable, and carries over the rock are optional. Eight kilometres downstream the river meanders through swampy terri­ tory, an interesting contrast to the earlier rock shores. Drops over ledges are the last changes in the river condi­ tions before the union of the north and south channels of the Ogoki River. Lining and carrying are necessary for the descent. The first ledge may be portaged for 20 m on the left, while the next two are best lined on the right. Good campsites are available here. At the convergence of the two channels a waterfall on the north channel is

Running a rapid on the Ogoki River, Ontario. 30

visible. The paddle to the foot of the Eby Falls offers a spectacular scene. Eby Falls to Ogoki Post 10 m vertical falls is worth the effort. The portage is in two parts on the left Below Eby Falls, rock of the Precam- One point five kilometres below the side. The first part, 20 m long, begins brian Shield becomes submerged union of the two channels, the river in a cover after a short run through under a thick marine deposit and con­ splits around an island. The left heavy waves. The other trail, 30 m long, sequently the river character changes. channel seems the easier of the two begins at a log pile opposite the first. There are no serious rapids and the routes. The right channel involves a One should plan to camp at the falls river widens to 30 m. Shallows are carry over a ledge. since it is the last area of rock outcrop. often encountered, forcing the canoeist The next five sets of rapids marked Eby Falls is the last area of white water to do a lot of manoeuvring. The sur­ on the maps are formed by ledges on the trip. rounding terrain becomes much flatter of varying difficulty. These may be The rapids below Eby Falls are a and is wetter as a result of the poor avoided by lining on the sides. very shallow boulder field. A winter drainage. The river banks are wet and Five point five kilometres below cabin is located 13 km below the falls muddy, thus good campsites become the confluence with a large river on the above Calbert Creek on the left. rare. Islands, though not abundant, left side one encounters five sets of are present and provide better camp­ rapids formed by boulder fields. sites. Running these involves careful ma­ Ogoki Post lies at the confluence of noeuvring. The next rapid is a ledge the Ogoki and Albany Rivers. On the split by an island. At the head, it may left shore of the Albany is a Hudson's be run on the left of the island while Bay post with a post office and a the rest must be lined. No trail exists. radio-telephone. 31

Ogoki Post to the Albany Forks In the first 50 km of this section the river depth varies considerably. Shallow gravel shoals often not more than 7 cm below the surface force the canoeist to traverse and retraverse the river. Occasionally, the canoes must be walked across the flats. Other parts of the river, however, were two metres or more in depth. In low water this section would be difficult and tedious canoeing. Fifty kilometres below Ogoki Post the river becomes a more constant 2 to 2.5 m deep and many islands dot the river. Here, canoeing is similar to lake canoeing.

Confluence of Ghost and A Ibany Rivers, Ontario. 32

Albany Forks to Ghost River Canoeing in this section is very mo­ In this section the Albany River is notonous as the river is straight and crossing the James Bay Lowlands and progress seems tediously slow. Large the terrain is typical of all rivers in islands divide the river into two and this area. The width increases from sometimes three channels. 1 50 m at the Forks to over 1 km Ghost River itself was a trading at Ghost River. The banks are low and post during the winter months but is very wet, so campsites are hard to now uninhabited. All that remains find. There are no hills and high banks is a flat field offering a very good to provide diversity of scenery. campsite. It must be noted that few flights are made over the river and the canoeist is quite isolated. It is advised that the proper authorities be given a copy of your itinerary and estimated time of arrival when canoe­ ing any rivers in this area. 33 4 Missinaibi and Moose Rivers 34 Missinaibi and Moose Rivers Access and egress Maps required

Peterbell to Moosonee Access by air to Missinaibi Lake at (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) the head of the Missinaibi River can 42 B Foleyet Length best be arranged through one of the 42 G Kapuskasing 12 to 21 d (493 km) charter companies in Timmins. By 42 J Smokey Falls land there are three available points 42 I Moose River Date of survey of departure. (1) A Canadian National 42 P Moosonee July, 1973, at high water Railway line runs northwest from Capreol crossing the Missinaibi River at Peterbell. (2) 112 km north of this a gravel road meets the river. This road runs from Kapuskasing to The Spruce Falls Power and Paper Company main camp on the Missinaibi River. (3) The last available starting point is Mattice, 1 67 km down river from Peterbell on the Trans-Canada Highway. At Moosonee, two hotels provide accommodations, though reservations are advisable during the summer months. The Ontario Northland Railway runs daily train service from Moosonee to Cochrane. 35

About the river

Geography the Tyrell Sea, an inland ocean which where, attesting to the now withdrawn The Missinaibi River flows out of Lake 8 000 years ago occupied Hudson Bay. Tyrell Sea. Banks of sand and gravel Missinaibi which is located 325 m There is a series of spectacular remain on hillsides which were once above sea level in the Canadian Shield. waterfalls and chutes occurring in the beaches and spits. The river bottom In the southern portion of the river, breaks in the Precambrian rocks; becomes clay as one approaches vegetation on the sides is thick, block­ gorges where the entire volume of the James Bay. ing the shoreline almost entirely with Missinaibi rushes through passages overhanging cedar trees and bushes. as narrow as 2.5 m. Erosion and Flora Only at rapids or waterfalls does the faulting has left steep rock walls up to In the southern extremities of the Precambrian rock become exposed 50 m high in some places. Missinaibi, swamp and pine forests in the form of ledges and massive Beyond this drop of 30 m/5 km, on the higher rocky points constitute square rock outcrops. one encounters the James Bay the predominant vegetation. This Near Mattice, the silt and soil river Lowlands. Here, the Palaeozoic and soon gives way to a mixed forest of banks become increasingly higher, more recent ocean bottom sediments spruce, poplar, birch and trembling and reach 10 m in some places. At this lie on top of the Precambrian base. aspen rising up behind a dense over­ stage, one begins to encounter boulder Fossils are in evidence almost every­ hanging bank of cedar growing, in or fields in the river. near, the water. Occasionally there There is another distinct change in are localized stands of mature poplar the character of the geology beginning with very little coniferous growth. at the Thunderhouse and Conjuring House Falls area. Here is an edge of 36

In the lowlands area, large white Many swallows dwell in the steep The Missinaibi River became the spruce stand on the high ground, while and sandy river banks and American main voyageur route on the west side black spruce and larch grow in the mergansers and teal are commonly of James Bay for transporting furs bogs. The size of the spruce decreases seen leading their broods. and trading wares from Montreal. The in the northern areas. Depending on the time of year, voyageurs travelled by the Michipi- insects can be the most abundant form coten River from Lake Superior into Fauna of animal life. Mosquitos are thickest Missinaibi Lake where Brunswick There was little evidence of animal at the beginning of the trip, while House, a trading post, was established. life on the Missinaibi and Moose River black flies are especially numerous Some of the voyageurs went down trip. Five moose were encountered in the regions of fast flowing water, the Missinaibi River to Moose Factory. in the swamp area below Peterbell, their natural spawning grounds. Today, well-cut portage trails follow however after this only tracks were the voyageurs' route. seen on the trails. Beaver cuttings and History The Missinaibi River is now desig­ lodges are common sights. Pickerel, The Missinaibi and the Moose Rivers nated as a Wild River Park under the pike, walleye and sturgeon inhabit are integral to the history of James Bay Provincial Parks Classification the river. and the fur trade. Originally, it was System. one of the Indian routes for transport­ ing furs from the rich beaver country in the heart of Ontario down to the Hudson's Bay Company post at Moose Factory. This post was established in 1 673 and from it the furs were shipped directly to London via Hudson Strait. 37

The Canoe Trip

Peterbell to Mattice This 180 km section of river consists mostly of clay banks covered with alder and willow brush. Precambrian Shield rock is exposed only at the rapids and waterfalls. Swamp Portage Rapids, the first set of rapids, are 10 km below Peterbell. They are in three sets beginning at a cabin on the right shore. The portage trails for the three sets of rapids are marked and in excellent condition. The first portage is 285 m and the second portage of 80 m begins just above the second set of rapids on the right side. The third trail, 40 m long, is on the left and begins in a cove marked by blazes on the trees. Deadwood Rapids lie 1.5 km down­ stream from the Swamp Portage Rapids. The 80 m-long trail begins in a grassy inlet on the right side.

Running rapids on the Missinaibi River, Ontario. 38

A bend in the river marks the begin­ two sets, 1.5 km below Calf Rapids. Thirty-two kilometres below Thunder ning of Wavy Rapids. One may take The portage trail is in good shape Falls, one encounters Two Portage a route to either side of a large island. and marked on the right shore. The Falls. There is excellent camping at the The rapids on the left are easier. The second set has a trail marked on the end of the 25 m portage. This trail is 100-m trail is marked on the left left shore. One kilometre downstream marked on the right side. Just below side and is quite wet. The third set of on the left side is a cabin with five the falls is another section of heavy Wavy Rapids is below the island. bunks. water. The portage of 30 m is opposite The 100 m portage, in good condition, Split Rock Falls, 2 km downstream, the preceding one at the end of a bay. is marked on the right side. is a spectacular 10 m drop between It is marked with signs and red tapes. Five kilometres downstream, the two rocks. The portage of 340 m Further downstream is Pond Falls. Greenhill Rapids provide exciting begins at a bend before the falls and The portage of 70 m is marked on the twists and turns through Precambrian is marked by blazed trees. right side and is in good shape. rock. The rapids are 1.5 km long and Thunder Falls is 13 km downstream Below Pond Falls is Devil Cap Falls. there are good campsites along the and is preceded by an easy set of It has a trail of 60 m marked on the way. The portage of 990 m is marked rapids. The rapids may be avoided by right side. on the left side and is very swampy. a 30 m portage on the left side. Devil Rapids consists of four ledges. The rapids end at the bottom of a hill The 150 m portage around the falls The first has a trail of 120 m, marked at a grassy clearing. begins at a muddy bank on the right on the right side. The second, 60 m Approximately 1.5 km downstream and is in excellent shape. There is a long, is also marked on the right. The one encounters the first set of the Calf good campsite at the end of the trail. latter two ledges did not have portages. Rapids. The portage is marked on the All four may be run in high water. right side and is 400 m long. The One point five kilometres above very easy St. Peter Rapids occur in Wilson Bend is the Spruce Falls Power and Paper camp. There is a 113 km road to Kapuskasing near the river on the right side. 39

Wilson Bend indicates the occur­ Mattice to Long Rapids three falls with water dropping six rence of the next set of easy rapids. Below Mattice, the first rapid encoun­ metres. Many kettles have been formed These are followed by the Albany tered is Rock Island Rapids. The in the rock by the water. Rapids, a series of four boulder fields. portage of 300 m is on the right side The Stone Rapids are 1.25 km long The first is avoided by a 120-m at a burn site. It is in good shape and and are very scenic. The trail, 2.5 km portage marked on the right. The other ends in a bay. from Thunder House, indicates an three do not have trails but are not Black Feather Rapids runs over a 11-km portage around the unnavigable difficult to run. series of limestone ridges and washes Stone Rapids, Hells Gate and Long Beaver Rapids, 7.25 km down­ on granite boulders. These rapids Rapids. However, individual trails for stream, must be avoided by a 325-m offer exciting canoeing and excellent each section may be used. The Stone foot trail marked on the left. Below campsites. A rough portage on the trail, 690 m long, is marked on the this trail there is another short portage right side is unmarked. This 50-m right. Soon one enters Hell's Gate around a small ledge. It is marked portage is required due to a 2.5-m Rapids formed by a 30-m canyon. on the left side. ledge at the base of the rapids. The 1 800-m portage on the right Sharp Rock Rapids is a ledge which Twenty-nine kilometres downstream may be interrupted at a former Hydro can be avoided by a 30-m-long trail lies the climax of the trip. The spectac­ Camp on the trail. At this point a marked on the left. The last portage ular Thunder House Falls must be 50-m cliff falls vertically to the before Mattice is a 5-m drop called avoided on the left side by an un­ river below. Long Rapids is a series Glassy Falls. The portage is a short marked trail of 1.5 km. At the half-way of six rapids and boulder fields which carry over the rocks on the right side. point during the portage one may view may be run in high water. These may the beauty of the rock formations from be avoided on the right side by a the campsite. These falls are the first 6.75-km portage into Moose Bay. in a set of three. The second set of falls is through a 2.5-m-wide gorge. Con­ juring House is the highest of the 40

Long Rapids to the confluence Moose River to Moosonee with the Moose River From the confluence with the Moose Below Long Rapids, the river character River to Moosonee the sand banks changes abruptly. The final step down seen previously are replaced by low to the James Bay Lowlands had been grassy banks rising gently for 15 m. made and thus there are no more falls Campsites are more comfortable as or rapids. This region once was the these banks are dry and driftwood for bottom of the Tyrell Sea as is evident fires is abundant. by the flatness of the area and the The river in this section is very 30 m clay and sand banks. Erosion by muddy due to the clay in suspension the river gives the banks a slashed in the water brought down by the appearance. Owing to poor drainage, Moose River. The width varies from the banks are muddy and campsites 1 50 m at the confluence to 5 km are scarce. A steady drop of 1 m/km at Moosonee. The tidal effect is notice­ gives the river a current of approxi­ able at Moosonee. mately 1.1 km/h. The width of the river increases from 30 m below Long Rapids to 100 m at the Moose River. Many rivers converge with the main artery. 41

5 Rupert River 42

Rupert River Access and egress Maps required

Baie-du-Poste to Rupert House Baie-du-Poste can be reached via (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Route 167 from Chibougamau or 32 I Mistassini River Length St-Felicien, Quebec. Egress takes place 32 P Lac Baudeau 28 to 30 d (605 km) at Rupert House on James Bay. 32 0 Lac Mesgouez 25 portages Scheduled flights from Rupert House 32 N Lac Nemiscau to Moosonee are available, and from 32 M Rupert Date of survey Moosonee, flights and the Polar July, 1973 Bear Express train can take one south (N.T.S. 1:50 000 scale) to Cochrane, Ontario. 32 1/12 Lac Deleuze 32 1/13 Me Guillaume-Couture 32P/4 lie Peuvereau 32 P/5 Woollett Lake 32 0/8 Lac Bellinger 32 0/7 Lac Labardeliere 32 0/6 Lac Mesgouez 32 0/11 Lac Goulde 32 0 /12 Lac des Montagnes 32W/8 Untitled 32 N/6 Lac Mezieres 32 N/5 Ruisseau Goulet 32M/8 Untitled 32M/7 Rupert 43

About the river

Geography Below Nemiscau the river bottom con­ burned much of the forest cover. At The water in Lake Mistassini where sists of clay and silt, and as a result, Lake Nemiscau the silty conditions of the Rupert River trip begins is crystal the water is often cloudy. the water foster the growth of reeds clear, with a bottom of smooth round Rupert House is built on a sand hill and willow. Tamarack, larch and aspen stones and large granite boulders in marshy terrain, on the barren shores are predominant in open spaces. that protrude above the surface. The of James Bay. lake is nestled in a low valley of Fauna Precambrian rock surrounded by Flora The Rupert River has a well-deserved mountains with denuded summits and In the Precambrian highlands of Lake reputation as a fishing river. Sturgeon has many gravel and rock islands. Mistassini, black spruce is the predom­ are most plentiful, but walleye and The river flows through a valley inant vegetation, with an understorey pike are also present. Loons, gulls, 1 500 m wide, bordered by hills 50 m of caribou moss and Labrador tea. geese and a host of other birds frequent high. Eskers, sand bars and various Along the river aquatic plants are the area. Moose, beaver and otter are other post-glacial phenomena stretch abundant in the bays. The valley of the present. along the river. Lake Labardeliere fills river is covered with black spruce a Precambrian valley 300 m wide and muskeg, a typical northern vegeta­ with surrounding hills 200 m high. tion pattern. In the early stages of the Many lakes through the central portion trip, black spruce accounts for 95 per of the river have sandy bottoms. cent of the tree growth. The occurrence of jack pine, birch, and poplar in­ creases toward the west. Through the middle section of the trip, fires have 44

The Canoe Trip

History departed from Quebec on a voyage of Lake Mistassini to the outlet In 1668 English traders directed by reconnaissance to the Bay and in the of the Rupert River Des Groseilliers, who had been unable summer of 1672, arrived in Rupert's Length 80 km (2 portages) to win support from the French, sent Bay, being the first European to journey Mistassini Post is the departure point the Nonsuch to trade for furs in James overland to James Bay. Albanel under­ for the paddle north along Lake Mistas­ Bay. Des Groseilliers and his crew took one more mission in 1674 to sini to the outlet of the Rupert River. wintered near the present site of Rupert Christianize the Indians along the The first portage is in the west bay of House and became friendly with the Nemiscau or Rupert River. Baie-du-Poste. This swampy portage Cree Indians. The little ketch returned The Rupert River was the freight trail is difficult to locate. The first to England with a rich cargo of furs route of the Hudson's Bay Company 250 m cross a bay, and the land rises in 1669 and resulted in the founding to the Mistassini and Nemiscau Posts. for the last 750 m. of the Hudson's Bay Company in 1670. The Broadback River was used on A 72 km paddle north along the Des Groseilliers purchased the Rupert the return voyage to Rupert House. western shore of Lake Mistassini brings River from the Indians and named it one to Baie du Portage where a 150 m in honour of the brother of the reigning portage joins the Rupert River. This English King, Charles II. portage route bypasses the outlet of In response, the French realized the the Rupert River further north. importance of a physical presence in establishing the land rights of this abundant fur preserve. Pere Albanel 45

Baie du Portage to Lake Capichinatoune Length 35 km (1 portage) The first reach of the Rupert consists of a disorganized system of lakes and rivers. Eskers resembling large golf greens line the river. In the first 16 km of the river, there are three sets of rapids, all of which can be run. Then a set of rapids begins and ends with a two-metre waterfall. Portaging along the right bank bypasses this obstacle. There is one more rapid before Lake Capichinatoune.

Lake Capichinatoune on the Rupert River, Quebec. 46

Lake Capichinatoune to picturesque setting with 200 m high Lake Mesgouez to Lake Nemiscau Lake Mesgouez mountains lining the lake shore. Length 168 km (7 portages) Length 138 km (4 portages) Two rapids precede Lake Bellinger. There is a 60 m rapid at the discharge At the discharge of Lake Capichinat­ Five kilometres to the west, at the dis­ of Lake Mesgouez. This reach oune, a waterfall of five metres flows charge of this short lake, is a 1.5 km marks the beginning of the Rupert into a 150 m long rapid. The 750 m waterfall which must be portaged on River as a main river system. Along portage trail has a campsite for two the left bank for 300 m. A camping the upper part of the reach, there are tents at the head of the trail. Sixteen spot for two tents exists along the por­ hills bordering both banks. The river kilometres of tranquil water is followed tage trail. In the next 43 km of the averages 72 m in width and flows by four sets of rapids. The first three Rupert River, there are nine sets of at five point five kilometres an hour. sets can be navigated but the last rapids. All can be navigated except The first large rapid of the section rapids end with a 3 m waterfall. the eighth rapid which has a 1 50 m can be bypassed by running to the right A 250 m portage trail follows the right portage on the left. The trail is invisible of an island along the right shoreline. shore. A campsite is situated at the from the river and it is difficult to One point five kilometres downstream base of this portage. Two more sets follow. A few kilometres downstream the left branch of the river enters a of runnable rapids follow. beyond a few simple rapids is Lake 60 m rapid which can be run. A 2.5 m Forest fires have scorched the Bardeliere. Moraines and eskers line scenery of this section. Campsites are the shore. rare and muskeg must be cleared to Large open muskeg flats with stunted pitch tents. Woollett Lake offers a spruce offer the only camping spots. There is a set of short rapids before Lake Mesgouez. A 200 m high mountain range lines the south of this beautiful sandy lake. 47

waterfall introduces two rapids fol­ lowed by yet another 2.5 m waterfall. The 150 m portage trail is invisible from the river. One point two five kilometres downstream there are cas­ cading falls which drop seven metres. A branch of the river flows to the right and the canoes may be lined along this reach. Three rapids follow; the first two can be navigated and the third can be portaged on the left side over the granite outcrops. The next major obstacle is a 1.5 km canyon where the Rupert River flows through a 30 m gorge. The poorly- maintained portage trail is in two sections on the right. Two rapids follow the canyon. The first rapid is 200 m and can be portaged on the right. The second rapid can be run. Three sets of rapids follow within the next 8 km.

Portage along the Rupert River, Quebec. 48

The portages are difficult to find Lake Nemiscau to Oatmeal Falls Oatmeal Falls to the end of but exist on the left shore. Four more Length 61 km (1 portage) Quatre Chutes rapids occur before the junction This majestic lake is lined with beauti­ Length 101 km (10 portages) with the Marten River. All four sets ful sand beaches and it is famous for The portage for Oatmeal Falls is along of rapids can be run. The river along its abundance of sturgeon. The aban­ a small stream on the right. The port­ the last reach before Nemiscau Lake doned village of Nemiscau offers an age trail is 1 200 m and ends abruptly has low-lying relief. Large sand banks ideal stop-over for a view of an historic at a bridge crossing for the new road and aquatic plants are a predominant Cree Indian settlement. North of from Matagami to Fort George. feature. Two sets of rapids occur Nemiscau Post is a small river branch Oatmeal Falls has a drop of 25 m. before Lake Nemiscau. The first rapid which was used as a short cut by These beautiful falls can be seen from has a portage at the end of a stream Indians en route to James Bay. This the roadside. on the right and the second rapid short cut joins with the main arm of the Chutes a I'Ours is the next barrier. can be run. Rupert River bypassing an extra 24 km A 300 m trail on the right is cleared. along the lake. One major waterfall A few short rapids may be run before can be portaged on the left, 15m four sets of waterfalls. The first drop above the foot of the rapids. A small is bypassed by a gravel road for 1 km. rapid is then run and the freshly cut The canoes can be put in next to a trail can be seen from the basin. This large construction camp. To reach 500 m portage trail has camping the second portage trail one must cross space for two tents. the river to the right shore. A 550 m The main stream of the Rupert River is about 220 m wide. There is little relief and the shoreline is swampy. There are no rapids between the short cut and Oatmeal Falls. 49

portage begins 100 m above the waterfall. The trail leads through a recently burned forest. Across the river basin is the portage route for the last of the series of waterfalls. The trail is 2 200 m long and ends on a gravel road. A large gravel pit down the road to the right must be traversed. A freshly-cut survey line brings the canoeist to the base of the rapids. Only one major rapid occurs before Checach Rapids. Checach Rapids drops 25 m over a 1-km stretch. The portage trail is divided into sections. The first is 250 m long. The canoes can be floated for a short distance. The second section measures about three kilometres. Portage du Chat is 16 km down­ stream. The river divides with a narrow channel branching to the left. This

White water on the Rupert River, Quebec. 50

narrow river channel leads to a portage Plum Pudding Rapids portage trail. The on the left bank, before the waterfall. trail is 3 km long. Sixteen kilometres of tranquil water Two point five kilometres down- ends at Plum Pudding Rapids. Like the steam is Rapide de la Cote Enfumee. former rapid, the river branches to the The portage on the right begins 60 m left. One must follow this stream to upstream from the rapid. The 2.5 km a set of rapids. A good camping spot trail ends abruptly at a swampy pond. exists on the 600 m portage trail. Across the pond the trail continues for At the base of this portage there is another one point five kilometres. a small bay to the left. In the base of The last rapid of the Rupert River the bay is the second section of the must be partially lined and run on the right. Shallow waters and large bould­ ers make manoeuvring difficult. Rupert House can be seen from the base of the rapids. 51

6 L'Eau Claire River 52

L'Eau Claire River Access and egress Maps required

L'Eau Claire Lake to Lake Guillaume- L'Eau Claire Lake can only be reached (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Delisle by chartered float-equipped aircraft. provisional maps Planes can be chartered from Poste 34 B Clearwater Lake Length de la Baleine or Fort George, Quebec. (L'Eau Claire Lake) 6 to 8 d (208 km) Egress from Lake Guillaume-Delisle 34 C Richmond Gulf 17 portages must be made by float plane also, or by (Lake Guillaume-Delisle) freighter canoe from Poste de la Date of survey Baleine. August 1973 53

About the river

Geography alder grow higher up on the slopes. the bird species present are willow L'Eau Claire Lake consists of two Small shrubs and lichen cover most of ptarmigan, spruce grouse, osprey, flooded craters, 30 km and 25 km in the Precambrian Shield. Common herring gull, woodcock, gray jay, snowy diameter. These inactive volcanic species include juniper, blueberry and owl, great horned owl, and sandpiper. depressions are bounded by steep cliffs. black cowberry. Lake Guillaume- Marine mammals in Lake Guillaume- A concentric ring of islands 1 6 km Delisle is affected by harsh arctic and Delisle include beluga whales, ring- in diameter and a low broad central marine climates. The tree species necked seals and bearded seals. Arctic reef lie in the west lake. The islands known as 'krummholz', display their char spawn in the rivers which flow consist of gentle rolling highlands stunted, asymmetrical formations here into the lake. These rivers also abound bordered by 120 m cliffs of vol­ and the salt water favours the growth with large speckled trout and grey canic breccia. The land mass has of sea lime grass and associated trout. experienced intense erosion since species. retreat of the last glacier. L'Eau Claire History River, the only river which drains Fauna Pre-Dorset Eskimo settlements have L'Eau Claire Lake into Lake Guillaume- The most common animals are caribou, been discovered along the goulet to Delisle, is bounded by high rolling black bear, arctic fox, hare, otter, Lake Guillaume-Delisle. L'Eau Claire hills. ground hog, squirrel and lemming. River was used as a route by Indians The waterfowl include Canada geese, on hunting trips between Lake Flora eider ducks, red-breasted mergansers, Guillaume-Delisle and Ungava Bay. A The L'Eau Claire region is in the goldeneyes and guillemots. Some of trading post, trading with the inland transition zone between sub-arctic Indians and seafaring Eskimos, was forest and tundra. In the lowlands, the established on the lake in 1750. tree cover consists of white and black spruce and tamarack. Willow and 54

The Canoe Trip

A canoe trip on the L'Eau Claire River is a short but exhilirating experience. The water is extremely clear and bril­ liant blue. Most of the rapids on the first reach can be run. Portage routes are almost always on the left side, over open rolling tundra of granite rock and caribou moss.

Volcano Island to L'Eau Claire River Length 30 km (no portages) The trip begins at Volcano Island, the largest of a circle of islands in the western crater of L'Eau Claire Lake. The island is 15 km long and a paddle along the cliffs brings one to the west end of the island. Sixteen kilometres across L'Eau Claire Lake is the outlet of the L'Eau Claire River. It is hidden in a multitude of islands and careful navigation is essential.

Gorge along L'Eau Claire River, Quebec. 55

L'Eau Claire River to the low-marshland Length 56 km (4 portages) The first reach of the river flows through rolling Precambrian rock up to 120 m high. The average width of the river is 110 m and the current is 6 km/h. The first three sets of rapids can be run but the fourth requires a portage of 75 m on the right bank. The river then flows into a series of lakes with abundant campsites. At the outlet of the lake system are two sets of rapids which can be run without diffi­ culty. Thirteen kilometres of tranquil waters follow, culminating in a short rapid and a one-metre waterfall. This should be portaged on the left bank.

Rapids on the L'Eau Claire River, Quebec. 56

Five sets of waterfalls and short rapids follow. Portaging is best on the left in each case. Campsites on sand beaches are available in many small bays. After 10 km of smooth water a two-metre waterfall and a 1 50 km rapid require a portage over rock on the left. Next, a rapid with an island in the centre can be run on the right side. An eight metre waterfall follows immediately after the rapid. At the end of the portage on the left, there is a difficult steep drop to the basin below. A climb up the surrounding 200 m cliffs permits an excellent view in all directions.

Portage around a high waterfall on the L'Eau Claire River, Quebec. 57

Low marshland Canyon section portages difficult though tundra Length 8 km (no portages) Length 114 km (13 portages) prevails above the tree line. The topography of the L'Eau Claire After 8 km of marsh, the river The next 3 km section is the most River changes in this short section and narrows to 50 m. Vertical cliffs rise spectacular part of the L'Eau Claire it widens to 80 m while the valley to 200 m. Two short rapids, both River. A two-metre drop introduces extends to about 1 200 m. The river is of which can be run, introduce this a 50 m vertical waterfall which shallow with an abundance of aquatic section. Six sets of waterfalls, 1.5 to plunges into a narrow gorge. plants. Canada geese breed in the 3 m high follow at short intervals. The river is a series of rapids and marsh, there are no rapids and the These may be portaged on the left falls through the 2.5 km gorge. water flows at 5 km/h. The moun­ bank. A portage along the left bank passes tains are low, the highest point being A 10 m waterfall follows with a through thick willow growth. The one hundred metres. 750 m portage bypassing it on the canoeist must carry over a 200 m left. Then two 1.5 m waterfalls rise but is rewarded by a beautiful precede a 20 m waterfall carved view of Lake Guillaume-Delisle and through the Precambrian rock. Below the deep canyon below. The final this are two rapids, the first of which may be run and the second portaged for 120 m on the left bank. Here the river narrows to 11 m. Spruce and willow become dense making 58

descent is down a steep slope through thick spruce, poplar and willow. Below, the river widens and 12m clay banks line the shore. The velocity of the water increases and the forest is dense along the valley. A 3 km stretch of rapids flows into Lake Guil- laume-Delisle. To bypass these rapids, one must climb the vertical rise on the right, over the tundra hills to the lake's sandy bay. The portage is 2.5 km long.

The Goulet, Lake Guillaume-Delisle, Quebec. 59

Lake Guillaume-Delisle areas, a recommended base camp for The lake is really a triangular body of observing The Goulet is at the foot salt water. The most spectacular of the cliff in the south bay of The scenery is at the southwest end. The Goulet. The canoeist may continue Goulet, a narrow outlet which joins along Castle Peninsula but caution the lake to Hudson Bay, resembles a must be exercised because of the flooded Grand Canyon with sedimen­ strong tidal currents in The Goulet. tary cliffs rising 435 m above the water. A canoe trip along the south of the lake brings the canoeist to the site of an abandoned Hudson's Bay post. The settlement is situated in a sandy cove southeast of Cairn Island. A few uninhabited buildings are situated here. As wood and drinking water are available only in certain 60 Further Reading

Albanel, Charles, Voyage a la mer du Chant, D. A., Rupert River by Canoe, Ontario Department of Natural Nord par terre et la decouverte de la The Beaver, v. 294, Spring 1964. Resources, Northern Ontario Canoe Baye Hutson. Mission de Saint-Francois Routes, Toronto, 1973. Xavier en 1671-1672, in Thwaites, Dutilly, Artheme & Lepage, Ernest, R. G. ed. Jesuit Relations and allied Exploration sommaire de la riviere Public Archives of Canada, Series documents, 56, chap. 6. pp. 148-217, Harricana, Le Naturaliste Canadien, MG 29, C23. Dossier de Robert Bell, 1899. Vol. 78, pp. 253-283, 1951. 1814-1917, le volume 26 a trait a la riviere A Ibany. Bell, Robert, Attawapiskat and Albany Green, J. A., Ogoki River Holiday, The Rivers, Geological Survey of Canada, Beaver, v. 277, March, 1946. Rousseau, Jacques, Les voyages du Annual Report, 1886. Pere A Ibanel au lac Mistassini et Ministere des Richesses Naturelles. a la bale James, Revue d'bistoire de Bell, Robert, Extrait de recentes explo­ Service d'hydrographie, Profits en long I'Amerique francaise, v. 3, No. 4, rations au sud de la Bale d'Hudson, des rivieres tributaires de la Bale Mars, 1950, pp. 556-586. Rapport du Ministre des Terres et James et de la Bale d'Hudson, Quebec, Forets de la province de Quebec pour 1965. Severeid, A. Eric, Canoeing with the les douze mois expires de 30 Juin, Cree, Minnesota Historical Society, 1906, Appendix No. 61, pp. 168-169, Morse, E. W., The Voyageurs' High­ St. Paul, 1968. Quebec, 1906. way, Canadian Geographical Journal, May, July, August, 1961. Twomey, Arthur C, Herrick, Nigel, Caron, Ivanhoe, Journal de /'expedi­ Needle to the North, Herbert Jenkins tion du chevalier de Troyes a la bale Nickels, Nick, Canada Canoe Routes, Ltd., London, 1942. d'Hudson, en 1686, Beauceville, 1918. Lakefield, Ontario, 1973. 61 Notes 62 Notes 63 Notes 64 Notes

Eastern Canada

Areas covered by reports in the Wild Rivers series are outlined on the map. Shaded area is covered by this report.

Now available in the series: A Iberta Quebec North Shore Saskatchewan Yukon Territory

Soon to be available: Central British Columbia Northwest Mountains The Barrenlands Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario Labrador and Newfoundland