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Hemisphereslow.Pdf HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2011 81 Three Perfect Days THE MEXICAN RIVIERA Along this captivating stretch of Pacific coast, where the jungle meets the sea, a global village of surfers, 81 DAY ONE 82 DAY TWO 86 DAY THREE Visit with the Road trip Sunset with the cowboys, expats and celebrities gather in a laidback “Pie Lady” to Nayarit turtles of San Pancho paradise. BY JORDAN HELLER // PHOTGRAPHS BY KEVIN J. MIYAZAKI SALAD DAYS Opposite, relaxing at Costa Careyes; above, ensalada mixta at El Embarcadero restaurant. 3PD MEXICAN RIVIERA 83 TAKE A LEISURELY DRIVE down the lush Mexican Riviera, a stretch of coastline dotted with small fishing villages and surf towns, and anchored by the bustling metropolis of Puerto Vallarta, and you’ll notice some curious sights. Cacti and palm trees share the same ecosystem with crocs, raccoon-like tejons, sea turtles and iguanas; and Mexican ranchers and farmers share pristine beach space and barstools with gringo expats, hippies and surf rats from points north and far northeast. Here, the jungle and the sea coexist side by side in perfect harmony. Historically, this part of Mexico consisted mostly of remote villages, but after John Huston filmed 1964’s The Night of the Iguana with Richard Burton and Ava Gardner here, it became a destination. San Francisco bohemians and the Hollywood glitterati began turning up seeking a respite from the rat race, and soon after cruise ships started to regularly port in Puerto Vallarta—including the fictitious Pacific Princess from The Love Boat. Seldom has there been a better time to visit. Great deals abound, the beaches are pristine and uncrowded, and the natives welcome visitors with open arms—or at least a “Jalisco Jiveshake” (see page 84). In this part of Mexico, where the locals leave their doors unlocked and their hearts open, the blazing sun is all you’ll need protection from. And for that, some sunscreen, a pair of shades and a classic Mexican straw fedora will do just fine. DAY ONE Headed south from Puerto 1 Vallarta in a rented ragtop Jeep Wrangler, you decide to stop for lunch in Boca de Tomatlán, a small beach town about 30 minutes from the city. As you turn o! Route 200 and descend down a steep cobblestoned hill, paraiso reveals itself: green, jungled cli!s framing a serene sandy beach and tropical blue waters dotted with ski!s. Streetside, across the cobblestones that led you to this charming cove, a group of boys are singing an impromptu a capella folk tune. You park the Jeep in the dead end at the bottom of the hill and take a seat on the outdoor terrace of El Embarcadero (1) restaurant, which o!ers a great view of the beach and a delicious salad of shrimp, octopus, tomatoes, cucumbers and onion, BLOOM TOWNS Clockwise VIVIANA DEAN // PR DIRECTOR, all washed down with a hot mug of jugo de camarón from opposite, colorful COSTA CAREYES// “My perfect hillside villas at Costa (shrimp broth served like a cup of tea). For dessert, day is watching my husband Careyes; Playa Rosa; Costa you walk 30 paces onto the beach and hop a $10 surf at Arroyo Seco or Chamela Careyes’ special Patrida Bay early in the morning water taxi to Yelapa (2), a small town accessible tequila; boats on the shore and then after lunch taking of Boca de Tamatlan; cacti. only by boat. In 20 minutes, after a scenic tour of our two chihuahuas to Teopa the coast, you find yourself in a tropical paradise. Beach—the most perfect, There you meet a stout woman with a big smile and protected beach on this coast, where the turtles come to lay a bowl of pies balanced on her head. This is Chelly their eggs and our dogs run Rodriguez, otherwise known as the “Pie Lady.” like wild.” ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD 3PD MEXICAN RIVIERA 84 She’s been baking and selling her pies here for more than 20 years. The banana cream is a standout: ripe, sliced plantains on a sweet pudding, sitting atop a flaky crust. You take the water taxi back to Boca de Tomatlán, then drive south through an alternating landscape of jungle and dusty pueblos that smell of sage. In two hours, you arrive at Costa Careyes (3), a luxury resort that draws a glamorous international crowd. Francis Ford Coppola was a regular visitor for 20 years; Heidi Klum and Seal own a villa; and everyone from Henry Kissinger to Giorgio Armani has spent time here. HIP SHAKE Though its reputation is one of decadence, Careyes is more than a seaside MASTERING THE “JALISCO playground for the jetsetting elite. It’s the creation of Gian Franco Brignone, an JIVESHAKE” eccentric 84-year-old Italian financier who dropped out of European high society more than four decades ago to build his Mexican ensueño. To Brignone’s mind, Careyes— If there’s one thing to comprising several kilometers of coastline and hundreds of hectares of jungle and know when greeting a local on the coast of mangrove swamps—is a living, breathing art project fully integrated with nature. Jalisco or Nayarit, it’s There are no jet skis in the water or umbrellas crowding the beaches. The 56 villas the handshake. The and 38 casitas are alternately painted yellow, green, blue and red, and they appear Jalisco Jiveshake is a as if they’ve sprouted naturally from the grounds. When Brignone dies, a specially sideways slap of the palms followed by prepared cli!side cave high above the property will serve as his tomb. LOCAL FLAVOR Clockwise from opposite, the the bumping of fists— After sunset, you go to find him at Punto.Como, an outdoor restaurant in the plaza view from a hillside casita at Costa Careyes; soulful, understated where many of Careyes’s regulars gather at night. You order the pizza—thin-crust with a surf shop in Sayulita; zucchini soup from but involved enough Mangialuoco; La Viuda owner Maria de Jesus fresh pomodoro sauce and mozzarella cheese—and scan the tables of well-heeled but Vargas Franco; orange juice in Sayulita. so as to feel that you’re casually dressed people engaged in lively conversation. Brignone is easy to spot. Just in on a secret. Akin to the “shaka” or “hang look for the man with the wild white beard and the look of mad genius, sipping on a loose” sign of Hawaii, special reserve of Partida tequila made just for Costa Careyes. You introduce yourself the Jalisco Jiveshake and the old man pours you a couple on the condition that you don’t bring up business, originated in Puerto real estate or any other unpleasantness. The exquisitely smoky aftertaste stays with Vallarta in the Mexican surf culture of the you a while as you make your way back to your casita and turn in. 1980s and proliferated up and down the coast DAY TWO You wake up to the sound and smell of the Pacific outside your window— thereafter. 2 window, that is, if you consider the absence of a fourth wall a window. After taking in the serene display of quiet sailboats, tree-covered rock formations jutting up from the ocean and sleepy villas peeking out from the cli!s, you head to La Viuda (1) restaurant. Spanish for “The Widow,” La Viuda predates Brignone’s arrival to Careyes and even the pan-American highway that cuts through these jungles. You go for the huevos rancheros con chorizo. When the yolk of the egg is broken, and it mixes with the salsa, refried beans and spicy red ground chorizo, it’s pure alchemy. After breakfast, you head for the Careyes polo field, a bright green gridiron carved into the middle of the jungle, half-ringed by mango trees. You step up to the foot-high blue wall that borders the field and watch the players thunder past you on horseback, followed by the thwack of the mallet hitting the ball. It’s exhilarating. After a delectable lunch of crispy red snapper cooked in mild spices at the Playa Rosa restaurant by the beach, you hop back into the Jeep and head north to the surf town of Nayarit. From Careyes, it’s a good four-hour drive. You hit some rugged road north of Puerto Vallarta, where stretches have been washed out by the September floods, but you hang tough and keep your eyes open, and eventually the pavement reappears under your wheels. 86 87 You drop your bags o! in your oceanfront casa at Imanta (2), a beautiful and serene Asian-inspired resort nestled into the jungled shores of Punta de Mita, and take a quick dip in your private infinity pool—it’s hard to resist after some long hours on the road— but you don’t get too comfortable. In no time you’re back in the Jeep, headed due north for Sayulita, a small but bustling beach town about 20 minutes up the road, where anglo hippie expats mix with Mexican surf rats. Dinner is at Mangiafuoco (3), an open-air restaurant owned by two Italian expats that bridges the two cultures to great e!ect. You try the fresh pasta with shrimp in a sauce made of guajillos—mild red Mexican chili peppers— cooked with tomatoes and garlic. It’s excellent. After dinner, you grab a bottle of Pacifico from one of the bodegas o! the central plaza and stroll the beach. Head north past the surfers and corroded old dinghies until you reach the Playa de los Muertos (4) graveyard, where opulent monuments of marble and blue tile sit next to such makeshift grave markings as a cross made of two tree branches and plastic SHORE THINGS Top, surfers in red and green flowers.
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