INSIDE: STYLISH RETREATS IN AND ’S MEKONG DELTA + REDISCOVERING SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

MAY 2019 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

Horizon pool amid tropical forest at Shinta Mani Wild

CAMBODIA: AN OPULENT NEW REFUGE Flamboyant tented accommodations surrounded by the deep seclusion of a private nature sanctuary

hen I arrived in Phnom Penh after Memories of calamitous wars still linger, million people visited Angkor Wat, the W a four-and-a-half-hour flight from even though around 65 percent of the 12th-century temple complex built on a Shanghai, there were just three other inhabitants are under age 30 and hence 400-acre site outside the northwestern commercial jets parked at the terminal, were not alive when the Khmer Rouge city of Siem Reap. And notable hotels and only one of which belonged to the national were driven from power. And the past is resorts are beginning to open in areas of airline, Cambodia Airways. For a capital given daily physical embodiment by the the country that were previously inac- city, in the middle of the day, this seemed saturnine figure of Prime Minister Hun cessible to all but the most adventurous surprising. During pre-trip research, I’d Sen, who has been in office since 1985. of foreign travelers. learned that Cambodia is the least devel- However, my reading also revealed A lack of development may be bad for PHOTO BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR oped of the Southeast Asia countries, with that economic growth is now starting the citizens, but for visitors it can have a a per capita GDP in 2018 of just $4,322, its to accelerate, driven chiefly by Chinese plus side. Central Phnom Penh remains a economy having lagged behind those of investment and the rapid expansion of congenial place, with much of its elegant neighboring , Vietnam and . tourism. Last year no fewer than 2.6 French Colonial intact and

Hideaway Report editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries, please email [email protected]. Clockwise from top left: Tranquil river excursion, outdoor tub of our tented villa, and daybeds overlooking the ravine, Shinta Mani Wild

little of the unrestrained concrete sprawl Thailand. Bensley’s style is theatrical and resort is integrated into its natural and gridlocked traffic found in baroque, and in many ways his properties surroundings, and as few trees as possible or Ho Chi Minh City. We have long recom- are the antithesis of those of the celebrated were felled during its construction. The mended the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, which Asian boutique brand Aman Resorts, public areas are situated at the edge of a opened in 1929; today it is overlooked by whose founder, Adrian Zecha, preferred ravine overlooking a dramatic waterfall, or the new Rosewood Phnom Penh, a much- an austere minimalist aesthetic. at least they are during the wet season and lauded 175-room property that occupies After about three hours, we turned off its aftermath (May through December), the top 14 floors of a 615-foot tower (the the highway onto a dirt road and headed but this being February, the river’s flow city’s second skyscraper). into a forested landscape dominated by was much diminished. Bensley’s designs On this occasion, however, we had no the peaks of the Cardamom Mountains, are often based on a story or a theme, and plans to linger in the capital, so instead we which rise to an elevation of nearly 6,000 Shinta Mani Wild was inspired by a trip

headed along Highway 4 in the direction feet. Once, this inaccessible region was a that King Norodom Sihanouk arranged for PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR of Sihanoukville, a major port on the Gulf final hideout for Khmer Rouge guerrillas; Jackie Kennedy on her visit to Cambodia in of Thailand. Our car, driver and “butler” more recently it has been the scene of 1967. (An extremely large, slightly incon- had been sent by Shinta Mani Wild, a widespread illegal logging and mining, as gruous portrait of the first lady occupies new resort that opened in December 2018, well as rampant poaching. Despite these located 80 miles to the southwest of Phnom depredations, the area is still covered by

R. Penh on a private nature sanctuary. one of the largest forests in Southeast LAOS

THAILAND O N G Shinta Mani Wild is the personal Asia, home to Asian elephants and pileated

MEK project of one of the most flamboyant gibbons, as well as remnant populations figures in luxury travel. Originally from of tigers, clouded leopards and sun bears. ANGKOR

WAT PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Southern California, Bill Bensley studied Bensley acquired a lease on an 865-acre CAMBODIA SIEM REAP 0 100 MI at Harvard’s Graduate School of Design, site that is located in a wildlife corridor TONLE SAP 0 100 KM after which, in 1984, he headed to Singa- between the Bokor and Kirirom national L AKE pore. He has been in Asia ever since. parks. His ambition was to create a R. O N G MEK Over the years, Bensley’s Bangkok-based sustainable ecotourism project — in PHNOM architecture firm became synonymous conjunction with the New York-based PENH SHINTA VIETNAM with exotic resorts created for InterCon- Wildlife Alliance, the Royal University of MANI WILD SONG HO CHI tinental, St. Regis, J.W. Marriott, Oberoi, Phnom Penh and the Cambodian govern- SAA SIHANOUKVILLE MINH CITY Anantara — in fact just about every major ment — in order to protect the environ- KRABEY KEP ISLAND hotel company you can think of. The prop- ment, frustrate the loggers and provide MEKONG CAN THO DELTA erty that first made him famous, however, training and employment opportunities G ULF was the Hideaway Report-recommended for local people. OF SOUTH THAILAND 15-room tented camp that he designed for The camp comprises 15 opulent tented CHINA SEA Four Seasons at Chiang Rai, in northern accommodations, erected on stilts. The

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2019 Clockwise from top: Outdoor sitting area and bar, bedroom, and dining table of our tented villa, Shinta Mani Wild

pride of place in the main dining room.) an elevated king-size bed, bookshelves, of activities centered on wildlife and the As a result, the property resembles an old- framed prints, ceiling fans, custom local national parks. Dense forest is a fashioned colonial-style safari camp, with furniture and an old-fashioned Bakelite challenging environment in which to brass fixtures, leather chairs, dark wood telephone with which to summon room view animals, or even birds. At present, furniture, steamer trunks, silverware and service. A counter made from a stretch it is possible to accompany rangers on crystal tumblers and decanters. of tree trunk ran along an entire side of patrols and to help them check camera On arrival, we were escorted to the bar, the room, into which were set two brass traps, as well as to explore an estuarine where we accepted a welcome cocktail and sinks. Lights and gilt-framed mirrors river system aboard a custom-built boat. chatted with the exceptionally friendly were suspended from the ceiling, an However, the conservation model at Cambodian staff, who hovered about and arrangement driven more by the design Shinta Mani Wild is undeniably impres- seemed almost too eager to be hospitable. aesthetic than the needs of those wishing sive. Funds from the resort help to support

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Would we like to go ziplining? the duty to apply makeup or shave. A separate the local wildlife rangers, while The Shinta manager inquired hopefully. Having room contained a monsoon shower. (In Mani Foundation coordinates community- just flown from New York via Shanghai, this setting, the lack of an outdoor shower outreach and environmental-educational followed by a three-hour drive, we declined seemed an omission.) Overall, our villa programs. Young adults who would other- and said that we’d much prefer to head struck us as a romantic private world, in wise have few career opportunities can to our room for a shower. His expression which it would be a considerable pleasure attend a free hospitality training school was so crestfallen that we immediately to luxuriate and unwind. in Siem Reap (where there are three other regretted not having taken up his offer. I suspect that most of the guests at Shinta Mani hotels), and the foundation Our lavish tented villa (#5) was Shinta Mani Wild will stray from the also helps to finance children’s dentistry, secluded at the end of a narrow gravel seductive accommodations only as far as dig wells and provide academic scholar- PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR path that twisted through thick vegetation. the dining room — which serves excellent ships. In all of this, Shinta Mani Wild is a Its huge partly shaded deck was appointed locally sourced Cambodian cuisine — the fine example of intelligent, compassionate, with a dining table and canvas chairs dramatic black lap pool and the small contemporary tourism. Bill Bensley’s backed by a colorful painting of wildlife hilltop spa, which offers Khmer treat- nostalgic design may hark back to the and jungle plants in a style vaguely remi- ments employing only organic products. romance of a vanished age, but in many niscent of the work of Henri Rousseau. A It remains to be seen if the resort will be ways his camp is at the cutting edge of vibrant animal-print sofa and two leather able to develop a comprehensive program modern luxury travel. H armchairs were set on a rattan rug. And a cowhide-covered icebox stood next to a A SHINTA MANI WILD 94 generously stocked marble-topped bar. LIKE Relaxing on the expansive deck of our exceptionally comfortable tented villa; the delightful local staff; In one corner, a large freestanding tub the atmosphere of deep seclusion. DISLIKE The resort has been designed around the river and a waterfall, but the high season is also the dry season (January to March), when the flow is greatly reduced. GOOD TO overlooked the jungle. KNOW The Shinta Mani Foundation directly finances conservation efforts and community-outreach projects. A heavy wooden door opened into a LOWEST RATE: WILD TENT, $2,350; EDITOR’S CHOICE: WATERFALL TENT, $2,970 (ALL MEALS, HOUSE WINE AND SPIRITS, spacious air-conditioned bedroom with GROUND TRANSFERS AND MOST ACTIVITIES INCLUDED). PREAH SIHANOUK PROVINCE. TEL. (855) 63-964-123.

MAY 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 EXPLORING THE CAMBODIAN RIVIERA Private islands, indulgent spas, exceptional seafood, French colonial charm

ntil recently, most American trav- Uelers to Cambodia would marvel at the Angkor Wat temple complex and then spend two or three days relaxing in the nearby city of Siem Reap, before continuing their journey in Vietnam or Laos. However, it is increasingly possible to regard the country as a destination in its own right. Along a stretch of coastline known as the Cambodian Riviera — a nod to the country’s French colonial past — a number of upscale resorts now provide competition for beach properties on the Thai islands of Phuket and Koh Samui. Three years ago, we visited Song Saa, an idyllic 24-villa private island resort, located 45 minutes by speedboat from the Infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, Six Senses Krabey Island mainland. (It remains a recommended property with a rating of 94.) On this occasion, we had opted to spend a few don’t like to be surrounded by trees. Most marble bath was well-lit and came with days at Six Senses Krabey Island, a of the villas are hidden away in the forest, an egg-shaped tub (which filled extremely 30-acre microdot, located 15 minutes by and many lack ocean views. Of course, if slowly) as well as a walk-in shower. Over- boat from a private jetty near the port of privacy is your primary concern, this may all, our accommodations were tranquil Sihanoukville. On a sunny day, skimming not be a drawback. Our own temporary and spacious, but they seemed somehow across smooth azure water, the boat ride home was accessible by a steep path — fine lacking in distinctive character. was far too brief. Still, the welcome was going down, less good on the way back up It takes just seven or eight minutes to warm and the densely forested island

— and offered a partial view of the sea, walk from one end of Krabey Island to PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR looked intriguing. A golf cart took us up as well as a private path to an oceanfront the other, so we headed out on a tour of a steep hill to the resort’s main building. boardwalk. A sizable deck with a partially inspection. To our surprise, we found only Formalities complete, we were driven to shaded plunge pool provided a peaceful a small artificial beach — if you Google our Oceanfront Pool Villa Suite, one of place in which to read and relax. the resort, the picture that appears is 40 freestanding accommodations that Inside, the air-conditioned villa offered extremely misleading — and few places PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR are dotted all over the island. a separate sitting area, a spacious bedroom where you can find a way through the It was immediately apparent that and a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows rocks in order to bathe in the ocean. Krabey Island will not appeal to those who with electronic blinds. The adjoining gray- Various water activities are offered,

Plunge pool, bath, and bed of our Oceanfront Pool Villa Suite, Six Senses Krabey Island

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2019 such as kayaking, paddleboarding and is unobtrusive, but beyond the reception idiosyncratic, might well find the place to snorkeling, but the simple pleasure of building we found a serene enclave, with an be congenial. Amenities include a small swimming in clean tropical sea is elusive. expanse of lawn, a stretch of quiet seafront spa and The Strand restaurant, which The principal reason for a stay, it soon with a strip of artificial beach, a swim- serves a locally sourced menu of French- became apparent, is to spend time in the ming pool and an open-sided restaurant. Cambodian cuisine with an emphasis on huge spa, which we discovered at the top The villas were designed by the seafood. Next door (and under the same of the island. (Later we enjoyed a Khmer architecture firm of Vann Molyvann, a ownership), The Sailing Club Restaurant Massage, which involves the kneading distinguished Cambodian protégé of Le & Bar provides a casual waterfront setting of pressure points through loose-fitting Corbusier, and the most striking is the for simple bistro-style food. (The house pajamas. In addition to the expected Blue Villa, which once belonged to the specialty is the stir-fried Kep crab with treatments, yoga and meditation classes governor of Kep. We found that we had Kampot peppercorns.) are offered.) been allocated to the resort’s only suite, The activities at Knai Bang Chatt are Krabey Island is also distinguished by which occupies the top floor of the Brown well-organized and include guided hikes its food, served at AHA Restaurant in the Villa and is accessed by a spiral staircase. in Kep National Park and boat tours to main building and Tree Restaurant, close It proved to be a huge, light, open-plan nearby islands —­ which have superior to the watersports center. The outdoor space, with a living area, a writing desk, beaches — for picnics, swimming and terrace at AHA, with its panoramic view an enormous rectangular tub, a separate snorkeling. Moons is currently running of the ocean, soon became our preferred shower and an idyllic outdoor terrace with a marine-preservation project on Koh venue for refined Cambodian dishes like a view of the ocean. Within seconds I had Karang island, having already provided samlor khmer, handmade noodles with decided that if I were writing a book, it an admirable example of enlightened mantis shrimp, water lily and banana blos- was somewhere I would be happy to live social engagement by funding a school soms, and local seafood such as pan-fried for three or four months. in a nearby village. coral grouper with garlic-and-broccoli Most of the accommodations at Knai Given its colorful history and obvious purée, river prawns, flowering chives and Bang Chatt are more modest, however, potential, I suspect that investment will coriander oil. and in general the style of the property is soon return to Kep. Ten years hence, the In general, Krabey Island is well- understated, rather than overtly luxurious. town may well have recovered a little of its managed, and its staff are consistently Most Hideaway Report members would former glamour. For now, it is a somnolent, charming and helpful. However, for us, likely be unimpressed, but a minority, slightly shabby place of strangely indefin- the lack of a real beach was a deal breaker. who prefer hotels that are laid-back and able charm. H Spa aficionados may well arrive at a more Our suite, and the Blue Villa, Knai Bang Chatt positive assessment. PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR Back on the mainland, we were met by a driver who was to transfer us to Kep, 75 miles to the east. Today it is a sleepy place backed by green hills, with a few small hotels and restaurants and a famous crab PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR market. Back in the 1960s, however, Kep was at the height of fashion, a chic seaside enclave where King Norodom Sihanouk socialized with high-ranking diplomats as well as Parisian luminaries like Catherine Deneuve. But French Indochine came to an end, and eventually the Khmer Rouge seized power. For Pol Pot and his cohorts, SIX SENSES KRABEY ISLAND 89 LIKE The extensive spa; the panoramic terrace at AHA Restaurant; the friendly and hospitable staff. Kep symbolized virtually everything DISLIKE The lack of a proper beach and opportunities for sea bathing; the dense forest cover, which must they detested, and they systematically make some villas rather claustrophobic. GOOD TO KNOW In addition to a menu of water-based activities, it is destroyed most of the lovely modernist possible to take Cambodian cookery classes. LOWEST RATE: HIDEAWAY POOL VILLA SUITE, $660; EDITOR’S CHOICE: villas as well as the royal palace. OCEAN POOL VILLA SUITE, $910. KOH KRABEY ISLAND, REAM, PREAH SIHANOUK. TEL. (855) 69-944-888. Just a handful of colonial-era houses KNAI BANG CHATT 88 somehow survived, three of which have LIKE Our exceptionally spacious and stylish suite; the delicious seafood at The Strand; the relaxing, laid-back now been combined to form the 18-room atmosphere. DISLIKE The modest size of many rooms; the artificial beach; the slightly cloudy water in the swimming pool. GOOD TO KNOW It is only a 10-minute boat ride to the lovely beaches on Koh Tonsay island. Knai Bang Chatt resort, a labor of love for LOWEST RATE: SINGLE ROOM, $230; EDITOR’S CHOICE: DOUBLE SEA VIEW ROOM, $350. PHUM THMEY, SANGKAT PREY Dutchman Jef Moons. The walled property THOM, KEP. TEL. (855) 36-210-310.

MAY 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 A SANCTUARY IN VIETNAM’S MEKONG DELTA Legendary hotelier Adrian Zecha opens a remarkable new island resort

Lotus pond and villas, Azerai Can Tho

or Americans of a certain age, the from far afield bring their agricultural tion that bore many of the hallmarks of FMekong Delta is not a place readily produce — pineapples, melons, garlic, a Zecha property: generous proportions associated with peaceful vacations. Nearly radishes — to sell or exchange. Rice milling creating a feeling of space and serenity,

16,000 square miles of wetland, it is a semi- remains the principal industry. refined minimalist architecture and the PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR wilderness of swamps, canals, islands As well as an inclination to see a little widespread use of natural wood and stone. and paddy fields that extends southwest of the delta, our trip to Can Tho had been This was merely a prelude, however, as the for 200 miles from the outskirts of Ho motivated by a desire to stay at Azerai Coconut dessert, and green mango salad with shrimp Chi Minh City (Saigon) to the Cambodian Can Tho, the latest venture by Adrian border. During the Vietnam War it was a Zecha, the founder of Aman Resorts, place of incessant, bloody conflict between which opened in June. Even at the age of Viet Cong guerrillas and men aboard the 86, Zecha continues to inspire fascina- speedboats and helicopter gunships of tion among travel cognoscenti, most of the U.S. Navy and Marines. But today the whom accord him near mythical status delta is serene once more, a shimmering as the world’s most talented hotelier of landscape decked out in a thousand shades the past 30 years. of green, where farmers can harvest three Most visitors reach Can Tho after a rice crops a year from the rich alluvial three-and-a-half-hour drive from Ho soil, brought by the great river from the Chi Minh City, but we arrived from the foothills of the Himalayas. opposite direction, having crossed into Can Tho, the capital of the delta, is Vietnam at the Cambodian border town a city of around 1.2 million inhabitants of Ha Tien. Following a five-hour journey situated on the Hau River, one of the nine through flooded rice paddies and fields of major channels into which the Mekong stubble temporarily occupied by thousands River divides. Traditionally, it was the of foraging ducks, our car pulled up at delta’s entrepôt, and even now it is famous a pavilion beside the Hau River. There, for its floating markets, where farmers we were ushered into a spacious recep-

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2019 resort itself is located on an 8-acre island, separate walk-in monsoon shower. The Other amenities at the resort include so after brief formalities, we headed to air-conditioning proved extremely effec- a light, airy, extremely well-equipped the end of a pier and boarded one of the tive, and the room provided all the gymnasium, plus pilates, yoga and medi- property’s speedboats. Leaving the city expected amenities, such as an espresso tation studios. And an extensive spa has behind, we headed out into the wide, machine and fridge. The only real omis­sion eight treatment rooms and suites with muddy brown flow, immediately becoming was a work desk, though this is doubtless private baths. part of the life of the river, with its tugs more of an inconvenience to a travel writer The Azerai in Can Tho is likely to be and barges and sampans. Our crossing than to someone on vacation. the first in a portfolio of similar resorts. took a slightly circuitous route in order Azerai offers two restaurants, the (The company recently acquired and to avoid the shifting shallows created by Café serving chiefly Vietnamese food refurbished Azerai La Residence in Hue, silt deposits, but after little more than five — where we enjoyed a delicious green on the east coast of Vietnam, once home to minutes we had entered a channel, cut mango salad with shrimp and an excel- the colonial French résident supérieure.) through bankside vegetation and tied up lent seafood curry — and Grill for Euro- If so, the Azerai brand may change the within a small hidden dock. pean as well as Asian cuisine. (Can Tho face of upscale travel in Southeast Asia, The first thing that struck me about is famous for its restaurants and street perhaps not as dramatically as the first Azerai was its serenity. Apart from the food, and the resort is happy to make Aman resorts did three decades ago, but occasional putt-putt of a small boat on reservations or arrange food tours.) significantly nonetheless. H the river, there was no sound other than The magnificent main 100-foot pool, and details of our River Room, Azerai Can Tho birdsong and the rustle of the wind in the trees. It seemed impossible that we were still close to the center of a major city. There are no vehicles on the island, and guests either walk or cycle around the resort, which comprises a series of elegant pavilions, some open-sided, others enclosed by glass. These are widely spaced and set amid trimmed lawns dotted with palms and banyan trees. Aside from a magnificent 100-foot swimming pool, the principal focal point of the property is a

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR huge lotus pond, with areas of deck around PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR its perimeter that provide tranquil places to sit beneath an umbrella to read or watch the circling shoals of huge orange koi. Zecha’s stated intention at Azerai was to create an Aman-like property at a more modest price point. The practical implica- tions of this were revealed in our room, one of two housed within a freestanding pavilion. There are 60 accommodations at Azerai — facing the river, the garden or the lotus pond — approximately twice the number at a typical Aman resort. Their dimensions are relatively modest at around 375 square feet, though they are made to feel more generous by steeply pitched ceil- ings and outdoor terraces with daybeds. The aesthetic is entirely familiar, however, A AZERAI CAN THO 92 with expanses of local hardwood, rattan, LIKE The feeling of tranquility and seclusion; the spacious grounds and picturesque lotus pond; the comfort- bamboo and a color palette of creams and able accommodations; the excellent Vietnamese cuisine. DISLIKE The rooms lack tubs and are not especially grays. Even though it lacked a tub, our spacious (but then this is reflected in the more reasonable rate). GOOD TO KNOW The resort organizes a variety of interesting excursions, including boat trips to an early-morning floating market, food tours, cycling expedi- bath was spacious, well-appointed and tions into the delta and visits to a cacao farm and chocolate factory. LOWEST RATE: GARDEN ROOM, $300; EDITOR’S well-lit and came with two sinks and a CHOICE: RIVER ROOM, $380. URBAN AREA HUNG PHU WARD, CAI RANG DISTRICT, CAN THO. TEL. (84) 292-362-7888.

MAY 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 A BLISSFUL CALIFORNIA GUEST RANCH Lazy days at a family-friendly escape in Santa Barbara wine country

6 MENDOCINO

MENDOCINO COUNTY Alexander Valley Dry Creek Valley HEALDSBURG S ONOMA Russian River Valley SACRAMENTO COUNTY 5 4 SANTA ROSA Napa Valley Sonoma Valley NAPA SONOMA Carneros

SAN FRANCISCO AlisalC Lake,ALIF near SolvangORNIA

SAN JOSE ess than an hour from Santa Barbara, studios was purchased in 1943 by Charles walls. A gratis bottle of the estate wine L the Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort Pete Jackson Jr., who opened it as a hotel was a welcome touch, one that we appreci- had been on our radar for some time. in 1946. The property is still owned by the ated later that evening as we lounged on PHOTO COURTESY ALISAL GUEST RANCH & RESORT Located 3 miles south of Solvang, a quaint Jackson family, but the guest experience a bench to watch the sunset. MONTEREY Danish town complete with a windmill has been enhanced by the addition of two Before dinner, we made our way to the CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA 3 and themed shops selling everything 18-hole golf courses, a full-service spa, an library to enjoy a complimentary wine Carmel Valley from handmade clogs to aebelskivers equestrian center and a kids’ club. tasting offered by a local vintner, who (traditional Danish ball-shaped pancakes), Time seemed to slow down as we turned introduced us to Santa Ynez Valley vari- MONTEREY COUNTYit is set on a 10,000-acre estate in the onto the hotel’s long driveway, flanked by etals. Generous pours, delicious appetizers Santa Ynez Valley. Originally a working mature oaks and verdant pastures where and an informative presentation were a cattle ranch, the property of 73 rooms and quarter horses with shiny coats were nice way to begin the evening. grazing peacefully. The charismatic check- Dinner followed in the elegant Ranch in staff presented us with an extensive Room, where guests are assigned a specific CALIFORNIA directory of activities offered at the estate table for the duration of their stay. (Men SAN LUIS from sunrise to sundown, plus a list of over 16 are required to wear jackets.) My OBISPO SANTA MARIA nearby wineries that offer complimentary herb-crusted prime rib accompanied by VALLEY tastings to ranch guests. creamy mashed potatoes and green beans SANTA BARBARA SANTA YNEZ COUNTY VALLEY A golf cart transferred us to our in a horseradish cream was so tender SOLVANG Studio Room. There, we immediately felt that my knife remained untouched. And SANTA BARBARA at home. The décor featured an earthy toasted walnuts added a delightful crunch PACIFIC color palette; a thick, colorful Pendleton to a wild-mushroom risotto topped with OCEAN 0 50 MI blanket set on a leather chair in front of a grilled artichokes. Also outstanding was 0 50 KM CHANNEL ISLANDS LOwoodburningS ANGELES stone fireplace; and vintage the wild-caught halibut in a light lemon NAT’L PARK artwork that brightened the tan-colored beurre blanc served over polenta and

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2019

California State Capitals International Boundaries Toll Roads and Bridges Major Rivers Military Property County Seat State Boundaries Interstate Highways Intermediate Rivers Indian Reservation Cities 500,000+ County Boundaries U.S. Highways Minor Rivers National Forest Cities 100,000-499,999 State Highways Intermittent Rivers National Wildlife Refuge Cities 50,000-99,999 Railroads Canals National Park Lakes Cities 10,000-49,999 Intermittent Lakes Cities 0-9,999 Dry Lakes Metro Areas Airports 0 50 100 MI

0 50 100 KM steamed rainbow chard with roasted of all ages, from an arts-and-crafts room; Mountain, the Breakfast Ride excursion figs on the side. Dinner is included in the to guided horseback rides, tennis lessons — either on horseback or aboard a hay room rates, so the waiters are happy to and tours of a barnyard housing rabbits, wagon — for a hearty country breakfast bring samples of other tantalizing side chicks and exotic ponies; to candle making and summer evening seafood barbecues dishes and desserts. Their generosity made and roping lessons. The ranch is a yearly at the lake. choosing a difficult task. excursion for many families we spoke to. Alisal was once a low-profile hideaway The following morning, we began with One of the most memorable episodes for Hollywood’s elite, a place where Clark a dip in the pool before a game of tennis on of our stay was the time spent in the spa. Gable married his fourth wife and Doris one of the six courts. We then had to decide The quality of the various treatments Day vacationed regularly. Even now, it is a between golf, horseback riding through available, especially The Cowboy Cure, relatively low-key retreat, where life moves the property’s canyons and oak groves, or which combines an exfoliation session, a at an easy pace, with outdoor activities fly-fishing on the ranch’s 100-acre spring- mud wrap and a massage, is exceptional. steeped in Western culture and traditions fed lake. We chose the lake and enjoyed In addition, there is a fully equipped cardio centered on family. Overall, it offers its watching one of the staff members teach exercise room. Other activities not to miss guests a glimpse into the wholesomeness three young boys to fish. The teacher was include guided biking trips up Figueroa of simpler times. H just as excited as the boys when one of them began to reel in a medium-size bass. A The kindness displayed by the hospitality ALISAL GUEST RANCH & RESORT 95 team became more and more apparent LIKE The authentic feel of the Western frontier; the extensive list of daily activities for children and adults alike. DISLIKE That lunch is not included in the room rate; available tennis court time slots were hard to come during our stay. Alisal is intended for by. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel has created partnerships with more than 20 wineries in the area, each of which multigenerational vacations, and a wide offers free tastings for guests. Request the list of participating producers at check-in. LOWEST RATE: STUDIO array of activities is available for children ROOM, $760; EDITOR’S CHOICE: JUNIOR SUITE, $930. 1054 ALISAL ROAD, SOLVANG. TEL. (805) 688-6411.

Clockwise from top left: Guest rooms and pasture, llamas, bald eagle, fishing on Alisal Lake, and a Grand Suite, Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort

Alisal Guest Ranch, Solvang PHOTO COURTESY ALISAL GUEST RANCH & RESORT

MAY 2019 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 SANTA BARBARA NOTEBOOK

Favorite RESTAURANTS

As the area’s wineries have burgeoned, so too have places to dine, creating a synergy between chefs and vintners. Nowadays, there is an abundance of excellent restaurants, complete with superlative wine lists.

THE LARK — Situated in the Funk a unique drinks menu. 131 ANACAPA Zone, Santa Barbara’s vibrant STREET. TEL. (805) 284-0370. arts district, this sophisticated LOQUITA — This upscale Spanish restaurant serves seasonally Our grilled swordfish lunch, Brophy Bros. Seafood Restaurant & Clam Bar inspired cuisine that employs restaurant in the waterfront district ingredients from local farms. It serves innovative tapas on a lovely Waterfront was named after Southern Pacific’s patio warmed by a hearth or in a overnight train that ran between dining room appointed with white- SEAFOOD DINING Los Angeles and Oakland up brick walls and colorful Spanish When we asked friends to name the best waterfront seafood restaurant in until 1968 and integrates design patterned tile floors. We began Santa Barbara, two establishments were consistently cited. We decided our meal with gambas al ajillo elements from that time. Since to try both. the plates are intended for sharing, (black tiger prawns in a spicy The is located at the end of Stearns we were able to try a number tomato, brandy and garlic sauce), Santa Barbara Shellfish Company Wharf and offers panoramic views. Alas, even at 11:30 a.m. the waitlist was of dishes. The crispy Brussels and grilled octopus tentacles over almost two pages long. After waiting for nearly an hour, we were seated at a bed of mashed potatoes with sprouts, served with medjool a table on the waterside deck. The staff were efficient without being pushy. dates, serrano chile and lime, were black-garlic aioli. The highlight However, our appetizers arrived at the same time as our mains, which was simultaneously sweet and tangy, of our meal was the paella, with irritating. My clam chowder starter seemed to be virtually clam-free. And but the caramelized sunchokes its roasted free-range chicken, the Dungeness crab Louie salad was served over mixed greens that had accompanied by shavings of spicy chorizo, gigante beans and been drowned in Thousand Island dressing. Although the service and the aged Spanish Garrotxa cheese, hen of the woods mushrooms. views were first-rate, the food was extremely disappointing. dollops of rosemary yogurt and The unpretentious and authentic Brophy Bros. Seafood Restaurant & Clam Bar is set next to the Santa toasted walnuts were a standout. cuisine served here makes diners Barbara Fish Market and the Santa Barbara Yacht Club. We headed upstairs The chestnut pappardelle with feel as though they have traveled to the main restaurant on the second floor, where the charming hostess told butternut squash and chanterelle to Spain for an evening, and every­ us that it would be a 30-minute wait. We were given a pager, which allowed us to sit in the small bar on the ground level. Our pager buzzed, and we mushrooms was delicious, but the thing from the sangria, to the Spa­ were immediately seated, with cocktails already in hand. We ordered two nish coffee served with 12-year-old crowning glory of our meal was bowls of the restaurant’s legendary New England-style clam chowder. It caramelized diver scallops served El Dorado rum and Frangelico was overflowing with tender clams, soft potatoes and thin slices of celery. with Dungeness crab meat, crispy whipped cream, to the wine list Afterward, my grilled swordfish came with a flavorful rice pilaf and sides of parsnips and snap peas. The wine broken down into Catalunya, guacamole and homemade salsa. Ahi breaded with roasted cashews and list is extensive and there is also Galicia, Andalucia, Rioja, Ribera served with a mustard cream sauce proved a standout as well. del Duero and Santa Barbara sections made this restaurant one of the high points of our trip. restaurant attracts a clientele of More-substantial staples are also

202 STATE STREET. TEL. (805) 880-3380. younger families, and the high- available, including a chicken caliber contemporary bistro fare piccata in a white wine-butter JANE — Located three doors down is approachable yet refined. Lunch sauce, and grilled salmon with from the Arlington Theatre, dating offers creative salad bowls that are a mango relish. Dinner offers a from 1931, Jane is on the main drag seasonally inspired, such as the more expansive menu of bistro

of State Street. This restaurant was butter lettuce served with papaya, classics. I have been warned that SANTA YNEZ VALLEY: COMPASSANDCAMERA/GETTY IMAGES BOOK: UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA PRESS named after the current owner’s fresh Dungeness crab and toasted dinners can get noisy because grandmother Jane Moody. The almonds in a light curry sauce. My of the open bi-level space. Do dining room décor is refreshingly dish was comprised of seared ahi not leave without ordering one unassuming. Walls are simply and garlic-crusted prawns served of the famous homemade cakes

appointed with original black-and- atop cucumber noodles, daikon or sundaes. I recommend the PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR white photographs of Moody’s sprouts, watercress and butter coconut chiffon cake served with Caramelized sunchokes, The Lark lively past, and wood tables feature lettuce, which was then heightened a sauce anglaise. 1311 STATE STREET. fresh flower centerpieces. The by a homemade sesame vinaigrette. TEL. (805) 962-1311.

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT MAY 2019 Bookshelf

JUSTINIAN CAIRE AND SANTA CRUZ ISLAND: THE RISE AND FALL OF A CALIFORNIA DYNASTY

Santa Ynez Valley he heart of this book is the epic tale of T the Caire family, which at one time owned Santa Barbara WINE COUNTRY Santa Cruz Island. Once the largest privately owned island off the coast of the United States, Santa Barbara’s wine country comprises both rural estates in the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria Santa Cruz is now under the ownership of The valleys and urban wineries in towns like Solvang, Buellton and Lompoc. The Santa Ynez is the Nature Conservancy and the National Park longest east-to-west valley on the western Pacific Coast, with a microclimate that is ideal for Service. Justinian Caire, a gold rush émigré growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. That has not stopped vignerons there from producing an from France, arrived on Santa Cruz in the array of wines, including Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. 1880s. (It had previously been inhabited by the Native American Chumash tribe.) Through SUNSTONE VINEYARDS & WINERY — Set RUSACK — Hidden away in Ballard Canyon, business acumen and a love of the island, on a 55-acre estate in the Santa Ynez Valley, Rusack sources some of its grapes from a plot he created a prosperous ranching kingdom. the vineyards here are owned and maintained on Santa Catalina Island. In 1919, chewing The author of this book is his great-grandson by acclaimed winemaker Bion Rice. We entered gum magnate William Wrigley Jr. purchased Frederic Caire Chiles, and the story is a labor via a winding drive through the vines, ducked a sizable part of Catalina and created a center of love, undertaken to paint a vivid picture of under a trellis heavy with grapes and found for Arabian horses. Later, the family decided possession and subsequent loss. Chiles used ourselves in the center of a courtyard where to surround the facility with 5-plus acres of previously unseen family archives, diaries and picnic tables were shaded by mature oaks. grapes. The current owner, Wrigley Jr.’s great- letters to tell a moving tale that begins in the The air was filled with the scent of lavender. granddaughter Alison Wrigley, married Geoff halcyon years when Santa Cruz was a thriving The winery produces Bordeaux and Rhone Rusack, and together they have been producing enterprise, as well as a retreat for the Caire varietals, and the tasting room is housed in a wines that employ the grapes from their island clan, and culminates with the protracted legal villa made from reclaimed limestone imported plot, as well as those from their 48-acre estate. battles that eventually tore the family apart from France. 125 REFUGIO ROAD, SANTA YNEZ. TEL. An inviting redwood deck encircled by oaks and forced the sale of the island in 1937. This (805) 688-9463. is a wonderful place to sample well-balanced multifaceted narrative is gripping from the first page to the last. wines in an idyllic setting. 1819 BALLARD CANYON MELVILLE WINERY — Tucked within the ROAD, SOLVANG. TEL. (805) 688-1278. cool Santa Rita Hills, Melville grows all of the grapes used to produce its mineral-driven Chardonnay, fruit-forward Pinot Noir and PENCE VINEYARDS & WINERY — Set on peppery Syrah. This family-owned winery the western edge of Santa Barbara County, has overcome the challenges of very dry the 40 acres of vineyards here produce pri­ conditions. The grounds of its Pinot plots are marily Pinot and Chardonnay. The tasting room is housed in a 1907 homestead, where we were

SANTA YNEZ VALLEY: COMPASSANDCAMERA/GETTY IMAGES BOOK: UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA PRESS primarily sandy with elements of clay, while its Syrah is planted entirely in sand. This has graciously welcomed by owner and winemaker­ enhanced the rich magenta color of the wines Blair Pence. His passion for making wine is and helped to create those with prominent contagious. Pence is energized by how best minerality, balanced acidity and herbaceous to cultivate Chardonnays on his land, where

PHOTOS BY HIDEAWAY REPORT EDITOR flavors. The Chardonnay, though appearing the soil is rich with both limestone and clay light and refreshing because of its pale color, and the climate is cool at night. Appointments is especially buttery. 5185 EAST HIGHWAY 246, are required for tastings. 1909 WEST HIGHWAY 246,

LOMPOC. TEL. (805) 735-7030. SANTA RITA HILLS. TEL. (805) 735-7000.

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&Beyond Tengile River Lodge, South Africa

SABI SAND DEBUT exceptional sightings of both been redecorated by noted South Africa’s Sabi Sand lion and leopard. Milanese designer Paola Game Reserve contains some Navone, and while retain- of Africa’s most lavish safari CHIANTI CLASSIC ing their frescoed walls and lodges, including Hideaway Set on a 740-acre estate, ancient terra-cotta floors, Report-recommended Singita just over 20 miles south of they now feature a lighter, Ebony, Singita Boulders and Florence, Castello Del Nero more contemporary aes- Londolozi. These classic prop- has long been a favorite of thetic. The property’s three erties now face fresh competi- Hideaway Report members. restaurants remain under tion in the form of &Beyond Perched on a hilltop, sur- the supervision of talented Tengile River Lodge, which rounded by the Chianti wine chef Giovanni Luca Di opened in December. Nine region, the property is housed Pirro. COMO properties are HIDEAWAY REPORT huge (2,150-square-foot) within an imposing 12th- renowned for their spas, and HOTEL RATINGS suites, set within riverine century castle. Last year, the Castello Del Nero now PHOTO DOOK LODGE: RIVER TENGILE &BEYOND A99-100 — A truly great hotel, among the hotel became part of the offers an encyclopedic range forest, offer 180-degree the finest of its kind in the world views of the Sand River. Each COMO Hotels and Resorts of massage therapies and A96-98 — An exceptional hotel of great features a private deck with group — which despite its Ital- beauty treatments employing individuality and distinction a lap pool and an outdoor ian-sounding name is based in Guinot products, as well as A93-95 — An outstanding hotel of dining area. The lodge was Singapore — and underwent yoga, meditation and pilates. genuine sophistication designed to have minimal a comprehensive renovation. A relaxation area affords A90-92 — A fine hotel with consider- impact and to merge into the It reopened in March. The panoramic views across the able charm about which we have minor surrounding bush. &Beyond 50 rooms and suites have exquisite Tuscan countryside. reservations is deservedly renowned for 89 & Below — A hotel that did not meet the COMO Castello Del Nero, Italy required standard its environmental sensitivity. Tengile River Lodge also Find all of our recommended hotels at HideawayReport.com. works with the local commu- nity and helps to finance Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published clinics and school classrooms. monthly by Andrew Harper, LLC at 4214 Medical Parkway, Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Few game areas in Africa can Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mail- ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes rival the profusion of wildlife to: Hideaway Report, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax encountered in Sabi Sand — it (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts is frequently possible to see us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a the so-called Big Five species corrected address within one year. Copyright 2019. Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; on a single game drive — and WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is pro- guests can expect to have hibited without written permission from the publisher.

FULL-SERVICE TRAVEL PLANNING IS AVAILABLE TO MEMBERS AT (800) 375-4685 OR [email protected].