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Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring

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Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Naturetrek Tour Report 13 - 20 May 2018 Otter with lumpfish American Black Duck Black Redstart Pine Marten Report & images compiled by Neil McMahon Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour participants: Neil McMahon (leader) with eight Naturetrek clients Summary The first tour of the ‘Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring’ trip enjoyed a mostly dry and sunny week, sometimes with a cool breeze which did wonders to almost totally eradicate the native Midge population! Our accommodation at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse next to Glenborrodale Castle proved to be a magnet for wildlife with Red Deer on the lawns, plenty of birds coming to the feeders including two pairs of Great Spotted Woodpeckers, and a regular female Pine Marten showing nice and close most evenings. On one day we watched an Otter catch three Lumpfish one after another at the Point of Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, each time bringing the unfortunate fish onto the rocks to consume it. Eagle sightings were almost daily, with the White-tailed Eagles in particular showing regularly, and sightings of scarcer birds included a Black Redstart and the long-staying American Black Duck! The night drives were generally quiet but twice we encountered cats which were 'interesting' and showed features which didn't eliminate the Scottish Wild Cat, if indeed this rare beast still exists! Our boat trip took us to both Lunga (part of the Treshnish Isles) and Staffa. Lunga is famed for its seabird colonies which include up to three thousand Puffins and many Guillemots, Razorbills and other seabirds. We were able to see these birds at very close range, with the sometimes comical Puffin seemingly enjoying our presence. Staffa, with the world famous basalt rock formations, and Fingal's Cave looked stunning in superb Scottish spring sunshine. We recorded well over a hundred bird species during our eight day adventure into the wilderness of the West Highlands, plus thirteen identified mammal species. With our very comfortable abode and excellent home cooking, it was a memorable tour of the Ardnamurchan Peninsular and immediate surround. Day 1 Sunday 13th May Our pick-ups at Glasgow Central Station and at the airport were managed without issues and we began our journey to the Ardnamurchan Peninsular. As we arrived at the southern shores of Loch Lomond, we said good- bye to the Magpies, Carrion Crow and Rooks as our scenery began to take on a wilder look. Sunny conditions helped us to appreciate the emerging colours of spring, but there was still plenty of snow on the high tops. We took comfort stops at Tarbert and Tyndrum, drove over Rannoch Moor and stopped at Glencoe Pass to breathe in the atmosphere and take photographs of the impressive landscape. A brief stop at Glenrigh Forest provided us with an excellent view of a Red Squirrel and close views of Chaffinch and Siskin, both common finches of woodland in this area. Just around the corner we took the Corran Ferry, noting Cormorant, our first pure Hooded Crow and three or four distant bobbing Black Guillemots. Motoring on towards the peninsular we saw the first of many Red Deer during the trip, and we saw common loch-side birds at Strontian. The undulating single-track road from Salen made the last few miles a little wearisome, but we arrived at the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse at 7.20pm where our hosts Alan and Sharne greeted © Naturetrek July 18 1 Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour Report us effusively. Here we also met Cedric, who had made his own way there and had enjoyed some excellent wildlife watching around Loch Lomond. An hour-long night drive after dinner didn’t provide any sightings of note, but on our return we found that some of the jam sandwiches were missing from the feeding station, presumably due to a visiting Pine Marten! As we retired to bed after a full day travelling, a Tawny Owl hooted from the neighbouring woodland. Day 2 Monday 14th May Cedric rose early to see a Pine Marten scuttle away from the bunkhouse! Our walk at 6.30am took us down the slope to Loch Sunart. On the way we enjoyed watching a Song Thrush feeding alongside the bigger, bolder Mistle Thrush, and then a second Song Thrush feeding its newly-fledged young. Super stuff! Singing birds included Goldcrest, Siskin, Blackcap, Garden Warbler and Willow Warbler, and at the loch side a singing Common Sandpiper delighted us as he scurried along the lichen-covered rocks. Oystercatchers, Herring Gulls and Grey Herons occupied the bigger rocks, and we noted Raven, Hooded Crow and noisy Canada Geese. A Common Seal showed briefly, but sadly there was no sign of any Otters. Singletons of Eider, Great Northern Diver and Red-throated Diver flew east along the loch. The subsequent Scottish breakfast was well received after our early morning air. Birds coming to the feeders included Siskin and Great Spotted Woodpecker. Our daytime excursion took us west from Glenborrodale, initially with a brief stop at the Ardnamurchan Visitors Centre which allowed us to see a Golden Plover, Red-breasted Mergansers and a couple of Twite sharing the short grass with sheep and their new-born lambs. Singing warblers audible from the roadside included Whitethroat and Willow, Wood, Grasshopper and Sedge Warblers. At Camas nan Geall we spent a little time scanning Ben Hiant and the valley below it. Almost straightaway we could see one and then two Golden Eagles active over the highest peak. Then Cedric picked up on a White-tailed Eagle slowly coming in on the slope above the road. Following this high point we drove slowly towards Kilchoan, watching Red Deer jumping sheep fencing. More birds included nesting Sand Martins, a distant Goosander, a brief view of a ‘ringtail’ Hen Harrier and several Common Buzzards. After a visitation to the shop and facilities, we watched two White-tailed Eagles disappearing overhead, one of them being attacked by Hooded Crows. We then took a slow drive to the Point of Ardnamurchan and along the way we came across a first-year Whooper Swan on a small freshwater loch, plenty of Red Deer and a male Peregrine in full hunting mode. At the lighthouse we said “hello” to the two resident collie dogs and enjoyed a hot beverage and cake at the well-sited café. We then took a short walk to the lighthouse, quickly seeing Rock Pipit, Great Northern Diver, Kittiwake, Gannet, Common and Black Guillemots, Shag and plenty of Manx Shearwaters. A couple of Common Seals were fishing off the rocks. Just as we were turning away a large Otter was spotted below us, fishing off the rocks of the most westerly point of the British Mainland. In the space of twenty minutes he fetched up a large orange fish, probably a lumpfish, three times and brought them to the rocks to devour them. We finally tore ourselves away from this spectacle and drove the short distance to Portuairk where we had lunch. Song-flighting finches there included Lesser Redpoll, Goldfinch and Greenfinch. A Whimbrel was seen walking around on some nearby rocks. 2 © Naturetrek July 18 Ardnamurchan - Wild Scotland in Spring Tour Report After lunch we progressed eastwards and spent a little time watching some loafing Red Deer, before driving to the isolated buildings at Fascadale. A flotilla of eight summer-plumage Great Northern Divers was impressive with their synchronized diving. Birds gathering included Kittiwake, Manx Shearwater and Gannet, plus a couple of Great Skuas. Distant feeding birds were made up of Common Guillemot plus several individual Great Northern Divers and a single Red-throated Diver. Coming away from Fascadale we saw a couple of Snipe and a fly-over White-tailed Eagle, and then encountered two more eagles, one flying off with a long piece of intestine dangling! Our final wildlife encounter was on the slopes of Glenborrodale-proper when we scanned the open ground and watched Red, Fallow and Père David’s Deer grazing on the small plateau below. The remainder of the evening was spent enjoying our home-cooked meal, working through the checklists and waiting for a Pine Marten. A short night drive was mostly uneventful with further views of Red Deer. Before that though, most of us watched some unidentified bats. Pine Martens came to the prepared food and enjoyed the strawberry jam sandwiches! Day 3 Tuesday 15th May Our early morning walk took us to Aperitif Point, overlooking Loch Sunart. Paul picked up on a bird flitting around close by which turned out to be a Black Redstart – totally unexpected! We followed this little chap as he worked his way around to the boathouse, where he was flycatching from the guttering. After our morning saunter and breakfast we took the minibus and drove to Salen and then to Acharacle. Birds seen overlooking Loch Shiel included Sand Martin, Red-breasted Merganser, Teal and Cormorant. We then explored the ‘Kentra’ area as the weather deteriorated into drizzly rain, espying Curlew, Whimbrel, Common Sandpiper, Dunlin, Greenshank and Ringed Plover. Others included Rock Dove, Goldcrest and Red-breasted Merganser, plus an interesting observation of ‘squirting’ scallops in the shallows! With the weather still a little inclement it was time for a coffee and cake at the Internet Café, and then we drove to Garbh Eilean. In the car park two Wood Warblers showed very closely and we then walked the short distance to the wildlife watching hide. Several Common Seals were on view, the distant Grey Heronry was active, and other birds included Hooded Crows interacting with Herring Gulls, Rock Pipits and an exceptionally close Treecreeper which showed well.
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