Fall 2015

best practices for the peruvian trend explore a career food safety is here to stay in food photography sizzle The American Culinary Federation features Quarterly for Students of Cooking NExt Publisher 18 The Safety of Food issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Chefs can help prevent foodborne illness outbreaks • ingredient substitutions Editor-in-Chief through creating their own on-site safety protocols. Jessica Ward • dessert hybrids 24 Peruvian Cuisine: • research and Senior Editor development chef Kay Orde Here to Stay

Graphic Designer With familiar ingredients presented in unfamiliar ways, David Ristau this menu trend is set to take off.

Contributing Editors Rob Benes 30 Capturing Food Suzanne Hall Developing photography skills may Ethel Hammer help you become a better chef and lead Amelia Levine 18 24 30 Jody Shee to a new career.

Direct all editorial, advertising and subscription inquiries to: 36 Where Are They Now? American Culinary Federation, Inc. We check in with four Student Chef of the Year winners to find out about their lives 180 Center Place Way after the competition. St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 [email protected]

Subscribe to Sizzle: www.acfchefs.org/sizzle departments For information about ACF 4 President’s Message certification and membership, go to www.acfchefs.org. ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, congratulates the 2015 ACF national student award winners.

6 Amuse-Bouche Student news, opportunities and more. facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs 10 Slice of Life

Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly Experience a 10-day culinary trip through South Africa through the eyes of a young chef. for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Fall Volume 12, Number 3, is owned by the American 12 Classical V. Modern Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes Discover how to prepare tournedos Rossini two ways. to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions 42 By Degrees expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do Perfect your chocolate transfer sheet decor skills. not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers, employees, contractors or members of the American Culinary Federation. 44 International Flavors Discover the flavors of the cuisine of the Netherlands. 48 The Interview

Philadelphia chef Kevin Sbraga shares how tenacity and Cover: Kevin confidence helped him stay true to his vision. Sbraga, owner/ executive chef, 52 The Quiz Sbraga Dining, Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. Philadelphia, is interviewed on 53 Industry Profile pg. 48. Photo 2015 Bocuse d’Or USA team member Philip Tessier answers by Michael our questions on why culinary competition is important. Spain-Smith

2 Sizzle Fall 15 president’s message go the extra mile Sharpen your savings The right gear. The right prices. president’s message 80%OFF! Go The Extra Mile By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC Save money on your establishment and back to school With the 2015 ACF national awards This issue of Sizzle features a special award supply needs with the ACF Members Advantage Program. competitions completed in August, I article on four past ACF Student Chef applications want to congratulate all the students of the Year award winners. They recount Application for 2016 ACF who competed at the state, regional their experiences competing for the Student Chef of the Year is available here. and national levels. The hard work, award and share how it helped propel dedication and determination it takes to their careers. Check out the article, and Intent to compete forms for ACF Student Team MEMBERS SAVE 47% compete is admirable, and I congratulate then I urge you to consider applying for Championship and Wilson Jones® Basic Round-Ring View Binder everyone who went the extra mile this 2016 ACF Student Chef of the Year. Or, Baron H. Galand Culinary Member Price: $1.85 | Item # 493403 year to hone their skills. find out how you can join a competition Knowledge Bowl are team at your school to compete in ACF’s available for download here. STORE PURCHASING CARD In addition, congratulations are in order for Student Team Championship or Baron H. SPC ACCOUNT #80122535822 ACF’s 2015 national student award winners: Galand Culinary Knowledge Bowl. The Kathryn Eurich, a student at SUNY applications are available on ACF’s website Delhi, Delhi, New York, representing (www.acfchefs.org/events). If you have MEMBERS SAVE 15% the Northeast region, took home the any questions regarding the application Verbatim® Store 'n' Go™ USB Flash Drive, 4GB 2015 Student Chef of the Year award. process and experience necessary, the Member Price: $11.09 | Item # 913036 ACF’s Central Region student teams from ACF national office is here to help you. Metropolitan Community College, Omaha, Nebraska, and Kendall College, Chicago, The opportunity is waiting for you to won ACF’s Student Team Championship step up, seize it and make the most of it. and Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge I look forward to seeing you compete at officediscounts.org/acf.html Bowl, respectively. Competition builds ACF’s national competitions in 2016.  MEMBERS SAVE 34% Office Depot® Brand Wirebound Notebook, 6 pk. BLACK & WHITE COPIES = 2.5¢ character and prepares many students for the COLOR COPIES = 22¢ Sincerely, Member Price: $5.01 | Item # 834270 BINDING, FOLDING, CUTTING = 35% off retail next step in his or her career. Besides honing (You must pre-pay when using self service copiers) OFFICE DEPOT/OFFICEMAX ASSOCIATE INSTRUCTIONS organizational, time-management and recipe- 1. Begin sale transaction as normal. Self service copy transactions must be paid for at the register. 2. Press “Total” and then select “Charge” or, “F1”> SPC Account’(touch screen only). development skills, meeting new mentors 3. Enter SPC# and wait for register to re-price. 4. Purchases made using the card do not qualify for Worklife Rewards and other students with the same goals Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC Retain this card to save on future purchases opens up a world of opportunity at these National President competitions. They are great résumé builders American Culinary Federation Product Specialist Manager/Food and give students the ability to take advantage MEMBERS SAVE 21% Lamination of Your Discount Card Fanatics™ Chef Zebra® Z-Grip™ Retractable Ballpoint Pens, 12 pk. Coupon Code: 82677141 of their ACF membership and network with US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia FREE Valid in store only. Must present this original coupon to cashier Member Price: $5.10 | Item # 288517 at time of purchase. professional chefs and likeminded students to learn new concepts and techniques. Save on these products and thousands more! Visit www.acfchefs.org/membership. 4 Sizzle Fall 15

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Own a business? Enroll your business in a direct billing account today. Call 855.337.6811 ext. 12897 Own a business? Enroll your business in a direct billing account today. Call 855.337.6811 ext. 12897 amuse-bouche news & opportunities amuse-bouche

News & Opportunities

Young Chef Moves national cook-off, Eurich and the other Students win big at semifinalists were challenged to prepare ACF nationals four portions of a menu that utilized duck in 1 hour and 25 minutes. There was a vast amount of young chef and student culinary talent Eurich’s winning menu was a Maghreb- represented at ACF’s 2015 national inspired duck trio—pan-seared breast, competitions. Held during the trade petite roulade and Moroccan-inspired show at Cook. Craft. Create. ACF braise—served with buttery potato, National Convention & Show in carrot and orange puree, Mediterranean Orlando, Florida, July 30-Aug. 3, vegetables, orange sauce and red students and young cooks competed pepper/harissa cloud. in Student Chef of the Year, Student Team Championship and the Baron Her goal is to move to New York after H. Galand Culinary Knowledge graduation and someday own a restaurant. Bowl. Creativity, professionalism Eurich is a member of ACF Chefs and and innovation shone through on the Cooks of the Catskill Mountains. competitors plates and menus, and in their composure and teamwork during The Student Chef of the Year award each competition. This year’s award was established in 1987 to recognize a winners are as follows: student who possesses a high degree of professionalism, skill and passion for ACF Student Chef of the Year, the culinary arts. Since then, the award sponsored by Custom Culinary, Inc. has grown from a national winner chose Hailing from Warwick, New York, by voting, to an award that includes a Kathryn Eurich, a senior at SUNY regional semifinalist competition and Delhi, Delhi, New York, and a line then a national cook-off. cook at The Landmark Inn, Laconia, ACF Student Team National Championship, New Hampshire, brought home a sponsored by Vitamix® Corporation silver medal, $1,000 and the title of 2015 ACF Student Chef of the Year This year’s national winner of the to the Northeast Region. For the student team competition is the ACF

6 Sizzle Fall 15 Professional Chefs and Culinarians College, Chicago. Team members of the Heartland student team from Emily Mankus, Alex Szabo, Alex Metropolitan Community College, Gabrielson, Mike Lanzerotte and Nelia Omaha, Nebraska. Salvi competed against three other regional teams in the “Jeopardy”-style The team claimed the 2015 national competition. Questions ranged from championship title and a silver medal nutrition and culinary math to Escoffier for the Central Region. The five- and had to be answered in 10 seconds member team—Sarah Farmer, Kyle or less once a team member buzzed Ray, Daisy Fuentes, Miseon Lee and in. Kendall College, which has won Patrick Ratigan—competed against six consecutive regional competitions four other student teams, three ACF and took highest honors at nationals in regions and one military, to cook 24 2010 and 2011, proved their students portions of a four-course meal in 4.5 have the dedication and culinary know- hours. The team impressed judges and how to bring back a gold medal to the onlookers with a seasonal menu that Central Region. featured sustainable and locally sourced ingredients, including pan-seared Great The competition is named in honor Lakes walleye with scallop mousseline, of past ACF National President Baron braised radicchio and salt-pressed beef H. Galand, CEC, AAC, HOF, who with orange/honey vinaigrette and pork championed junior members and en crepinette with sausage, pork pressé encouraged them to get involved in their and pea/apple/potato puree. profession outside the kitchen. The ACF Student Team Championship, Youth Team USA wins silver established in 1992, is designed ACF Culinary Youth Team USA received to raise the standards of culinary a silver medal in their first international excellence and professionalism, competition at the American Culinary promote camaraderie and educational Classic, Aug 1-2, held at Cook. Craft. opportunities among students. Create. ACF National Convention Each team served their menu to guests & Show, Orlando, Florida. The team opposite from top: 1. of the ACF Student Team Competition faced off against Junior Culinary Team Kathryn Eurich. 2. ACF lunch held during the competition Canada, with each team presenting Professional Chefs and on the trade-show floor, Aug. 1. The edible cold-food platters on Aug. 1 for Culinarians of the Central Region team also garnered judging and serving a hot-food lunch to Heartland student interest in their interactive digital menu 50 diners on Aug. 2. team from Metropolitan Community College, presentation that allowed attendees Young chefs gear up for Omaha, Nebraska. to touch each menu item to view a top: Students from schematic of the dish. ment’or BKB Kendall College, Chicago, Sixteen young chefs from across the and members of ACF Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Bowl, nation are competing in the ment’or Windy City Professional sponsored by American Technical Publishers BKB annual competition series. The Culinarians Inc. and US Foods first competition kicked off Aug. 27 bottom: ACF Culinary Youth Team USA with This year’s national champs in the at Bouchon Bistro, Beverly Hills, ACF's national president Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge California. Additional competitions (middle) Thomas Bowl is the team from Kendall include Sept. 17 in Chicago, Sept. 26 in Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

New York and Oct. 8 in Houston. The Interested students should apply to competitions are ticketed events and all compete in their region’s Student Chef of proceeds go to the foundation. To learn the Year competition for an opportunity more, visit www.mentorbkb.org. to compete in the national cook-off held in Phoenix, July 15-19, 2016. Deadline Competing young chefs are: to apply is Sept. 30. Download an Matthew Bergen, Lupa Osteria application and learn more here. Romana, New York Michael Dengelegi, Bouchon Bistro, Watch This Yountville, California Chef-produced documentary Lee Foden-Clarke, Bouchon Bistro, wins award Beverly Hills, California Documentary short film “Course of Mark Garcia, Winnisook Club, Food” won Best Okie Short at the 15th Big Indian, New York annual deadCENTER Film Festival held June 10-14, Oklahoma City. David Kneller, Bartlett Pear Inn, The short—directed by Christopher Easton, Maryland Hunt and produced by Marc Dunham, William Lansing, The Strand House, director of the Francis Tuttle School Manhattan Beach, California of Culinary Arts, Oklahoma City—is a Torre Liebchen, Etc. steakhouse, first in a series of food documentaries Teaneck, New Jersey to be produced by Dunham that will Max Loff, Spoon and Stable, Minneapolis explore the cultural connection to food. Zachary McCarty, El Vez, New York The film follows a free-range pig farmer Angel Medina, Fixe, Austin, Texas and Wynoka, Oklahoma, mayor Andy Bowen, as he works to overcome the Ryan Peters, Ocean Reef Club, struggles of sustainable ranching. In Key Largo, Florida addition, the film will be screened at Mara Serna, Treadsack, Houston The Culinary Institute of America’s, Corey Siegel, CEC, Westchester Hyde Park, New York, homecoming Country Club, Rye, New York Sept. 11-12, and will air on OETA, Oklahoma’s Public Broadcast Station, Skylar Stover, Hestan, Oct. 1 at 7 p.m. To learn more, Anaheim, California view the trailer at https://vimeo. Tim Tokarz, Café Boulud, New York com/87637201. Michelle Tribble, Five Sixty by Bocuse d’Or documentary Wolfgang Puck, Dallas “The Contender,” a documentary of the Apply to compete USA team that competed in the 2013 Applications are available for the 2016 Bocuse d’Or held in Lyon, France, will ACF Student Chef of the Year. ACF be released in September 2015. The student award competitions recognize film follows Certified Master Chef Rich above: Ray McCue. opposite: Rich up-and-coming students who possess a Rosendale and Corey Siegel, CEC, Rosendale (left) and high degree of professionalism, culinary as they prepared for the high-stakes Corey Siegel (right). skills and passion for the culinary arts. culinary competition.

8 Sizzle Fall 15 “This film will give you the perspective at ACF,” said McCue. “My attitude of what it is like to compete at the towards teaching the next generation very top of culinary competition,” said of chefs is showing them that our Rosendale. “The dizzying workload profession is a lifelong journey. I and the attention to detail are unlike reinforce to my culinary students that anything you have ever seen before.” we should all strive to better ourselves each day and to never give up.” The Bocuse d’Or was established in 1987 by legendary French chef The ACF Chef Educator of the Year Paul Bocuse. American chefs have award is given to an active culinary been competing in the biennial educator whose knowledge, skills and chef championship for 20 years. expertise have enhanced the image of For more information and to view the professional chef. To be nominated, the documentary trailer, visit www. educators must have a record of contendermovie.com. accomplishment of their ability to help students define and develop their careers.

Culinary education McCue has been an assistant professor Educator honored at JWU since 2007. He served as Ray McCue, CEC, assistant professor, team coach of the JWU student team Johnson & Wales University (JWU), that won the 2014 ACF Northeast Providence, Rhode Island, was awarded Region Student Team Championship. the 2015 ACF Chef Educator of the He received an ACF Cutting Edge Year Aug. 3 during Cook. Craft. Award and an ACF Northeast Region Create. ACF National Convention & President’s Medallion in 2014.  Show in Orlando, Florida.

“I am honored to be bestowed Chef Educator of the Year by my peers www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 slice of life victor kendlehart slice of life

Victor Kendlehart, CC

age 24 education Associate degree, culinary arts, Harrisburg Area Community College, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania; and bachelor’s degree, culinary arts, The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College, Philadelphia. work Culinary trip to South Africa as World Association of Chef Societies Young Chef Ambassador to the Americas and sous chef, Streamsong Resort, Bowling Green, Florida. most interesting lesson Walking through wine vineyards in South Africa and learning about the heritage of the wineries. career plans I want to continue to grow my career with Interstate Hotels and Resorts, which is the property management company for Streamsong.

Day 1 Day 2 I arrive in South Africa at the I fly to Cape Town and attend the O.R. Tambo International Airport, Taste of Cape Town. This food Johannesburg, 11 a.m., and my festival highlights South African contact for the next 10 days, cuisine and Cape Town’s artisan Duane Riley, chef Billy Gallagher’s producers and vineyards. I learn top associate, greets me. We get about biltong—a cured meat, my luggage and make our way usually beef, but ostrich is popular, to the Southern Sun O.R. Tambo as well. In the evening, Riley, Leun International Hotel. When chef and I go to the port in Cape Town to Chen Kim Leun from Malaysia, have a light dinner and learn about my counterpart on this journey, potjie pots. Although the potjie pot’s arrives, Riley treats us to dinner at a origin is Dutch, these small, three- restaurant called Tribes. legged, cast-iron cauldrons are popular

10 Sizzle Fall 15 serving dishes in South Africa. I have raisin jus is served. This is followed by chef, who is also an ambassador for potjie pot mussels, one of my favorite ox tongue with beets, roast hake, squid Worldchefs Young Chefs. meals of the trip. with curry, beef sirloin and crisp onions with monkey gland glaze. Dessert is Day 9: Day 3 frozen grapes and brandy pudding I have lunch at the Saxon Hotel, Villas We tour two wineries, the first, soufflé with vanilla ice cream. After & Spa in Johannesburg. The Saxon Zonnebloem. The process, from grapes a tour of the restaurant, I attend the is a five-star hotel with a spa and and type of bottles used to determining Veritas Awards dinner at Southern Sun fine dining. The high tea buffet has which oak barrel and which cork The Cullinan, Cape Town. old-school presentation and methods. is best, is amazing. After the tour, I There is squash mousse, terrines, participate in a wine tasting of seven Day 5 tartare, and many other items. I wines, two whites and five reds. My The next destination Durban. There have the English roast and Yorkshire favorite is the pinotage, made from I find Bunny Chow (which had been pudding, which brings back memories the only grape native to South Africa. recommended to me in Cape Town) on of Christmas at my grandmother’s I meet Razvan Macici, winemaster the menu at a small curbside restaurant. house. For dinner, I went to the for Nederburg Winery, a prestigious Bunny Chow is a loaf of square bread, Orient, an Asian-style restaurant, with winery that’s home to the Nederburg hollowed out and filled with mutton Leun, where I order curry and dim Wine Auction, one of the top three braised in curry. Before I leave Durban, sum and try eel for the first time. wine auctions in the world, and toured I have the dish three times. the wine cellar. Later, we were invited Day 10 to the home of Bennie Howard, vice Day 6 I tour Lion Park, a wildlife president of the Veritas Awards, the I head to Unilever Food Solutions with conservation area in South Africa’s most prestigious and oldest awards my group and meet executive chef Gauteng province. I see meerkats, for wine and brandies in South Africa. Craig Elliott. I tour the R&D kitchen and cheetahs, giraffes, zebras and, He prepared kudu, a kind of meat learn about the products. Today, they of course, lions. I also have the indigenous to South Africa and similar are testing a seasoning for fried chicken. opportunity to play with lion cubs. to deer or elk, over an open fire. Afterwards, I tour the Montecasino, Day 7 Johannesburg, a huge casino and Day 4 I tour uShaka Marine World in Durban hotel complex. Later, we check into We head to the Spice with executive chef Warren Frantz. It is Protea Hotel Fire and Ice, Cape Town. Route, a hub of the fifth largest aquarium in the world artisan businesses and has 30-60 foodservice outlets open Day 11 surrounded by at all times. The logistics, preparation, I head to two different schools to talk vineyards. I meet and production to meet the amusement to culinary students about Worldchefs’ Bertus Basson, park’s needs are tremendous. On a busy Young Chefs Clubs. At the hotel executive chef of day, there can be 35,000-50,000 people. school, I present to three different Bertus Basson classes about Young Chefs Clubs and and Overture Day 8 give advice to students. I then assess restaurants in I visit the Beverly Hills hotel, Durban, four students’ practical exams. I have Cape Town. Tsogo Sun’s first hotel. It is a high- dinner with Dr. Billy Gallagher, honoree Basson hosts profile property that has kept its five- life president of the South African us at Overture, star status since it opened in 1964. I Chefs Association. It was humbling to located at Hidden meet executive chef Tony Kocke, who meet him, and the stories he told were Valley Winery, where takes me on a tour of the kitchen. I memorable. Overall, this was an epic a special menu of travel back to Johannesburg to the trip filled with friendship, culture and, fried pig’s trotter, African Pride Melrose Arch Hotel and most of all, passion for our craft. heirloom carrots and meet Adrian Brown the executive www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern tournedos rossini classical v. modern

oncocted by superstar Italian chef who first took an interest in me opera composer Gioacchino made this dish for a special party. It C Rossini, tournedos Rossini was something so completely out of symbolizes luxury and the height of my league,” he says. “I went home and 19th century gastronomy. A piece read about it in Larousse. I’ve been of buttery, toasted bread topped making it in some way since then.” with filet mignon, foie gras and a Recher chose to include braised truffle slice, then covered by a rich oxtail in the modern version of Madeira demi-glace, it is a simple tournados Rossini because it brings dish at heart, yet voluptuous in depth to the dish with rich flavor. In flavor and ingredients. addition, the braising jus is used as Yolanda Wu, a student at Le Cordon a base for the sauce to add another Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Los layer of flavor. Braising is one of Angeles, Pasadena, California, feels that Recher’s favorite cooking techniques. this dish is a great example of creating The integrity and character it brings experiences that people will never to food and the flavor the simple forget through food. “It is comforting, technique provides, exemplifies how rich and fulfilling,” she says. he wants his food perceived. “Everything is connected beautifully.” Wu feels that the dish continues For Timothy Recher, CEC, executive to influence chefs today and is still chef at the Army Navy Country Club, served in restaurant. It is a dish Arlington, Virginia, tournedos Rossini every culinary student should have top: Timothy Recher was his first big dish when starting in his or repertoire. bottom: Yolanda Wu out in the culinary industry. “The

12 Sizzle Fall 15 classical modern Tournedos Rossini Tournedos Rossini 1. Be careful not to overcook the filet mignon for this 1. Leeks are burnt, ground into a powder and rubbed on dish. Medium rare takes approximately 3 minutes. 2. A the tenderloin, which is then cooked sous vide, to achieve black truffle garnish adds its signature rich flavor. the dark outer crust and add a sweet-bitterness to the 3. Seared foie gras takes its place next to the truffle as meat. 2. Braised oxtail brings a level of depth and flavor a fundamental ingredient of haute cuisine. 4. Toasted to the tenderloin and the Madeira sauce created with white bread stabilizes the components and adds texture, the braising jus. 3. Deep-fried foie gras fritter provides while soaking up juice from the filet. 5. A generous the flavor and texture of the classical recipe’s toasted portion of Madeira sauce surrounds the plate and white bread traditionally placed at the base of this dish. enhances the overall richness of the dish. The fritter’s molten foie gras filling is a nod to the classical recipe. 4. Black truffle shavings increase the already rich flavor of the dish and are replica of the classical dish. 5. Sauteed vegetables add a pop of color to the dark colors of the sauce and tenderloin. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 13 classical v. modern tournedos rossini classical Born to Taiwanese parents, dealing with the dinnertime rush determining the doneness of To work in fine-dining Yolanda Wu grew up in and working on weekends. “It the filet and foie gras. You can’t restaurants until she can open Argentina. Her first food gave me more strength compared leave these ingredients once you her own is one of Wu’s goals. If memory was of her parents to others,” she says. start cooking them, Wu says. “If she put this dish on the menu making such Asian comfort you leave it a couple of seconds at her restaurant, she would add This dish has several valuable food as pork dumplings, tofu, too long, it is ruined.” Learning more vegetable options. For culinary techniques for young daikon pickles and kimchi how to harmonize the dish’s rich the classical recipe, she added cooks to master. Wu learned whenever they became ingredients has been an eye- green beans for a pop of color how to deglaze, reduce stock homesick. She remembers her opening experience for her. The and because the recipe lacked and wine to a proper sauce mother sitting for hours at the acidity and sweetness a vegetable component. Other table making dumplings. consistency, sear foie gras, and vegetable sides she considered of the Madeira sauce cuts sauce a plate properly when she were baby carrots Vichy or through the richness of the She didn’t set out to be a chef. For first made this dish at the French/ roasted asparagus.  steak and foie gras. The toasted years, Wu was focused on being Japanese influenced fine-dining bread slice soaks up the au a ballet dancer, but an injury restaurant Maison Akira in jus and sauce perfectly. The ended that dream. She feels that Pasadena were she works. the experience and discipline she flavors pair so well, it is hard to gained as a dancer helps her get The biggest challenge for her describe, says Wu. “It simply through the chaos of the kitchen, when she first made the dish was must be experienced.”

Classical Rossini filet Yield: 4 servings Rossini filet mignon 2 t. Madeira wine Ingredients: 4 oz. veal stock 1 loaf round white bread Method: 2 T. butter, divided 1. Deglaze pan used for foie gras Sea salt, fine ground with port wine, brandy, Madeira 4 filet mignons (approximately 200 wine and veal stock. Reduce to grams each) sauce consistency. 4 slices foie gras (approximately 80 grams each) French green beans 4 slices black truffle Ingredients: 2 t. clarified butter Method: 16 French green beans 1. Slice and remove crust of white Kosher salt and fresh ground loaf; cut each slice to size of pepper, as needed filets. Brush bread with butter; finish in saute pan until golden- Method: brown on each side. Reserve. 1. In a saute pan on high heat, 2. Season filets with fine sea salt add 2 t. of clarified butter; and fresh ground pepper. In quickly saute green beans. large saute pan, cook three Season to taste. minutes or until medium-rare. Rest in warm place. Plating: 1. Lay down crouton 3. Place whole slices foie gras in 2. Place filet on top saute pan; sear on each side. 3. Sauce plate Remove; retain fat in pan. 4. Put foie gras slice on top of filet; 4. Thin-slice black truffle. mount black truffle slice Madeira sauce 5. Add French green beans on side Ingredients: 1 t. port wine 2 t. brandy

14 Sizzle Fall 15 classical v. modern tournedos rossini modern Timothy Recher was a business Recher’s culinary experience They say timing is everything. And, up in doing a technique just to do it, major in college. For extra spending includes stints as executive chef according to Recher, timing is the or because it is popular. “Respect the money, he took a job at a restaurant at the historic Madison Hotel, most difficult part for those attempting integrity of the dish,” he says. and fell in love with the business. Washington, D.C., and Hilton to recreate this dish. Several separate For those who feel ready to He didn’t finish college. Instead, he Alexandria Mark Center, Alexandria, components have to come together create their own modern versions took on a two-year apprenticeship at Virginia. He has been invited to on the plate at the proper temperature, of classical dishes, he suggests a hotel and learned how to work in a cook at the James Beard House, took texture, seasoning and flavors. “You investigating ideas that offer a professional kitchen. part in a Food Network cooking have many things to juggle just for this different perspective but keep the Recher didn’t grow up cooking. challenge and cooked for several plate,” he says. “On the line you might same feel of the dish. For example, He was a suburban kid who lived presidents. After taking the position have three of these and 12 other dishes he replaces the crispy crouton a typical all-American family life. at the Army Navy Country Club, the being picked up at the same time.” component under the filet with Meals were made by his mother, club soon reached the goal of being Recher advises not to get in your the breading on the foie gras fritter. and included lots of casseroles and awarded Platinum Club of America own way when recreating modern The molten liver inside the fritter dishes made from recipes cut out of status. Next for Recher is moving components of the dish. Using the replaces the seared foie gras slice of the newspaper. Growing up, chicken the club up in the ranks to No. 10 on leek ash inlay and sous vide cooking the classical version. “My hope is that divan, meatloaf, and chicken and Platinum Club’s list and becoming a are methods that make the dish better the diner gets the same idea, flavor dumplings were his favorite meals. Certified Master Chef. and are not gimmicks. Don’t get caught profile and integrity,” he says.

for 60 minutes. 3. Add garlic, stir; deglaze with Madeira season with salt and pepper. Plate Modern Tournedos 7. When ready for service, remove wine. Reduce by three-quarters; deglaze as directed. Rossini tenderloin from bag; pat dry. Heat again with red wine. Reduce by half. 1 T. oil in large cast-iron pan until Add hot veal stock, sachet and oxtails. Seasonal vegetables Yield: 4 servings smoking. Season tenderloin heavily 4. Bring to a heavy simmer; cover. Place Ingredients: Leek ash inlaid beef with salt and pepper; add to pan. Turn in 225°F oven for 2 hours or until meat 2 T. water heat down to medium-high. Sear beef is tender and easily pulls from bones. 6-8 T. cold butter, cut in pieces tenderloin evenly on all sides. Remove; shred meat from bones. 8 baby heirloom carrots, peeled, cut Ingredients: 8. Add butter, herb sprigs, garlic and Reserve hot for plating. Allow braising oblique (use multiple colors for 2 leeks, white part only, cleaned and split shallot to pan. Baste tenderloin with liquid to rest. colorful presentation) Transglutaminase (Activa RM), as needed herb-infused butter for 2 minutes. 5. Degrease oxtail braising jus by 20 asparagus tips Water, as needed 9. Remove from heat. Allow to rest 5 removing as much fat as possible 2 t. chives, minced Salt and pepper, to taste 1 lb. beef tenderloin, center portion, minutes before slicing. Slice tenderloin from top. Strain liquid through chinois, cleaned and trimmed into four 4 oz. portions. pressing solids to extract flavor. Return Method: 1 T. grapeseed oil jus to pan, simmer; reduce to proper 1. Bring water to a boil; reduce to a Salt and pepper, as needed Braised oxtails and au jus consistency. Reserve for service. slow simmer. 2 T. butter Ingredients: 6. At service, reheat jus; blend in truffle 2. Whisk in butter one piece at a time 3-4 sprigs thyme 2 T. grapeseed oil, divided shavings. Enrich sauce with whole to create emulsion. Keep warm to 2 sprigs rosemary 2 lbs. oxtails, cross cut butter and foie gras scraps. Taste; maintain emulsion. 3 whole garlic cloves, skin intact, smashed Salt and pepper, as needed adjust seasoning as needed. Hold 3. At service, add carrots to beurre monte. 1 shallot, skin intact, quartered All-purpose flour, as needed warm for plating Cook until tender. Add asparagus; ½ lb. mirepoix continue to cook until just tender. Method: 2 T. tomato paste Foie gras fritter 4. Remove vegetables; season, toss with 1. Place leeks in perforated pan, top with 4 garlic cloves, peeled Ingredients: chives. Plate as directed. foil; place on hot grill until leeks are 1 cup Madeira wine 6 oz. foie gras black and papery. 1 cup red wine ½ cup port wine Aligot potatoes 2. Gently remove leeks. Grind to ash/ 1 qt. veal stock, heated Salt, white pepper and sugar, as needed Ingredients: powder in clean spice grinder or 1 sachet (parsley, rosemary, thyme, bay Standard breading setup (seasoned flour, 1 lb. Yukon gold or russet potatoes, coffee grinder. leaf, 2 t. black peppercorns) egg wash, fine breadcrumbs) peeled 3. Combine equal parts leek ash and 1 T. truffle shavings 1 garlic clove, peeled Activa; stir in water to make slurry. Reserve 1 T. whole butter Method: Cold milk, as needed 4. Split tenderloin in half lengthwise. 1 T. foie gras scraps 1. Marinate foie gras in port wine ½ lb. tomme (or Gruyere) With pastry brush, “paint” outside overnight, or at least 3 hours. 2 oz. butter of split tenderloin with ash slurry. Method: 2. Remove from wine; pat dry. Allow to Salt and white pepper, to taste Sandwich pieces back together with 1. Heat 1 T. oil in heavy braising pan. come to room temperature to soften. ash layer on the outside. Season oxtails heavily; dust with flour, 3. Using damp gloved hands, roll foie Method: 5. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Tie ends shaking off excess. Sear oxtails on gras into four equal balls. Chill until 1. In saucepot, put potatoes and garlic of tenderloin while squeezing into a all sides in hot oil; remove. Reserve. firm (save scraps for sauce). clove; cover with milk. Simmer gently tight cylinder shape. Place wrapped Discard oil. 4. Season foie gras with salt, white pepper over medium heat until tender. Strain; tenderloin in large vacuum bag; seal 2. Heat 1 T. oil. Add mirepoix; caramelize and touch of sugar. Bread fritters reserve cooking liquid. with cryovac. until vegetables are deep golden- in following order: flour, egg wash, 2. Press potatoes and garlic clove 6. Rest tenderloin overnight. Next day, brown. Add tomato paste. Continue breadcrumbs. Reserve cold for service. through tamis into heated mixing set immersion circulator at 59°C. to saute until paste is cooked through 5. At service, deep-fry fritters in 350°F bowl. Stir in butter and cheese a little Add tenderloin. Cook in water bath and rust-colored. oil until just golden-brown. Remove; at a time, allowing cheese to melt.

16 Sizzle Fall 15 3. If needed, add hot cooking milk to 3. Fill small squirt bottle with puree; adjust consistency. Potatoes will be silky, reserve for plating. smooth and slightly elastic from cheese. Taste; season. Reserve for service. Plating Ingredients: Black garlic puree All prepared components Ingredients: Maldon sea salt 1 head black garlic, peeled Fresh ground black pepper Water, as needed Black truffle Salt and pepper, as needed Method: Method: 1. On preheated plate, place aligot 1. Puree black garlic with enough water potatoes in line just off-center. to make smooth. Taste; season with 2. Strain au jus one more time; place in salt and pepper. open space next to potatoes. 2. Place puree in small squirt bottle; 3. Add small amount shredded oxtail to reserve for plating. center of sauce. 4. Season tenderloin slice with sea salt Spinach puree and pepper; place on braised oxtail. Ingredients: 5. Plate five asparagus tips; spoon on Water, as needed heirloom carrots. 2 cups baby spinach, destemmed 6. Place foie gras fritter off center of the Ice tenderloin slice. Using a micro plane, shave black truffle over top of tenderloin. Method: 7. Garnish with dots of black garlic 1. Blanch spinach in boiling salt water; puree alternating with spinach puree. shock in ice water. Squeeze dry; roughly chop. 2. Puree spinach with enough water to make smooth; add salt and pepper, to taste.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 17 Foodborne illnesses affect millions of Americans each year. Chefs can help prevent outbreaks through awareness and on-site food safety protocols. // By Amelia Levin

hen Blue Bell Creameries, a Brenham, Texas-based ice cream producer, announced a widespread recall of its ice cream products, heads turned, but they didn’t roll. Fact is, recalls are nothing new, especially in recent years. It’s not hard to forget the peanut butter salmonella outbreak in 2009 that sickened over 700 people nationwide. And peanut butter recalls continue to occur sporadically. On top of that, there are frequent recall alerts for fresh produce, meat and seafood. Each year, foodborne illness strikes 48 million Americans, hospitalizing a hundred thousand and killing thousands, according to the Atlanta-based Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). So it’s no wonder the food industry and the federal government are paying closer attention to improving the safety of our food supply. Service

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The federal government has stepped up its game, namely with the signing of the Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA) Jan. 4, 2011. Since that turning point, which many say was the most significant food safety reform in 70 years, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) were given greater power to enact tougher inspection requirements, which leads to tighter prevention-oriented standards and rules for foodservice products, fresh produce, meat, poultry, seafood and eggs.

This year, five FSMA rules will take effect, from preventative controls for both human and animal food to enhanced produce safety measures and two import-oriented rules. Processors of all food types will be required to evaluate the reality of recalls hazards in their operations, implement and monitor effective measures to “There’s a school of thought that we’re prevent contamination, and have a seeing more recalls now, but it is only plan in place to take corrective action. because they weren’t reported in the In addition, for the first time, the FDA past,” says Paul Magnant, CEC, CCE, will have a congressional mandate for CCA, corporate chef at Capitol Chef risk-based inspection of food-processing Consulting, Alexandria, Virginia. facilities: All high-risk domestic facilities Magnant serves as a ServSafe-certified must be inspected within five years and instructor and has assisted in a federal no less than every three years thereafter. grant project geared toward improving the efficiency and effectiveness of “These rules were made to help restore nationwide recalls. “Now we have better confidence in peanut butter, for one, along science, better inspections and enhanced with a variety of other processed foods,” testing measures at manufacturing plants says Dr. Robert Tauxe, deputy director of because they’re being conducted by the CDC’s Foodborne, Waterborne and third-party inspectors.” Environmental Diseases division.

Because of these enhanced testing The question remains: While the FDA measures, many food companies report plans to improve its inspections of food- recalls before a foodborne illness processing plants, what can chefs do to outbreak has occurred. There were no stay on top of recall alerts and prevent reported sicknesses associated with the outbreaks in their operations? In the listeria-tainted Blue Bell products. past chefs may not have had much of a

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Courtesy role in this industry-wide effort, but now inventoried items between 27 campus they’re getting much more involved. foodservice outlets, Cheryl Bauer, food safety specialist/purchasing assistant, Here are five steps chefs can take to remain signs up for these alerts to keep tabs proactive when it comes to food recalls on what’s happening. “Just because and potential foodborne illness outbreaks. there is a recall doesn’t mean we have it in our possession, but if we do, I can 1. be informed immediately call on all our units with Recalls are broken into three “classes,” the lot number and other information so says Magnant. Class 1 recalls, “which they can pull it out of their inventories as are reasonably likely to cause an illness,” soon as possible,” she says. carry the most threat. Class 2 recalls If an outbreak occurs, Bauer’s team uses suggest the possibility of an illness email blasts, phone calls and in-person occurring, while Class 3 recalls identify visits to assist foodservice managers. issues with products, but are “not likely previous spread: South dining If the outbreak is suspected to have hall at the University of Notre to cause adverse health effects.” impacted students, the team will send Dame, Notre Dame, Indiana. opposite: Paul Magnant is a Though large-name distributors will notify out a mass email, put up signs notifying corporate chef for Capitol Chef customers when a recall occurs, chefs and them of the situation and keep lines of Consulting in Alexandria, Virginia. foodservice operators can stay ahead by communication open. left: Catering kitchen at the subscribing to news alerts through the University of Notre Dame's Center for Culinary Excellence. FDA, USDA and other sources. 2. know the source right: Donald Miller is executive chef at University of Notre Dame At the University of Notre Dame, Notre While “knowing your source” may Food Services. In 2012, Miller Dame, Indiana, where Notre Dame sound like the obvious way to handle received ACF's national Dr. L.J. Food Services manages over 20,000 recalls and outbreaks, simply forging Minor Chef Professionalism award. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 21 strong relationships with large-scale in Kailua Kona, Hawaii, understands suppliers may not be enough. the importance of knowing your seafood source. “Being in an ‘enclosed’ “We go to great lengths to go to the environment, we need to be more careful sources firsthand,” says Donald Miller, about what comes onto the island,” CEC, CCE, AAC, executive chef, says Falsini, who buys direct from local University of Notre Dame Food Services. fisheries and seafood suppliers with “We visit farm fields and look at how whom he’s forged relationships. “Our they’re metering chemicals. We’ve gone suppliers even have marine biologists to our sources for eggs and examined who check the facility and make sure the how they handle safety issues related to fish is safe and fresh.” salmonella. We’ve even taken our entire team to manufacturing plants for canned goods and other foodservice products 3. follow protocol to monitor their processes, even grading When a recall occurs, suppliers will them on their food safety programs.” provide the name of the brand, item When it comes to preventing salmonella, number and, in some cases, a lot number the FDA has changed its stance on so chefs can check their inventories. proactive food safety antibiotics used to promote growth for The supplier will then provide specific Stay ahead of recalls and animal production after finding new strains instructions on how to return or dispose potential foodborne illness of the items. outbreaks by signing up for news of the bacteria surviving beyond 165ºF. By alerts or visiting websites of food 2016, it will be illegal for meat producers to “If we have to dispose of the product, we safety regulatory agencies. use those drugs without the oversight of a will open it up, pour bleach on it, bag it ƒƒ The gateway to all recent veterinarian. Chefs who source antibiotic- in another bag and dispose of it so there recalls from the FDA and free meat may be one step ahead. USDA is on the Federal Food is no chance of anyone taking it out of Safety Information website: Imported products require more due the trash,” says Bauer. foodsafety.gov ƒ diligence. Though some of FSMA’s rules ƒ Search the FDA website At the Four Seasons, Falsini follows for current recalls, market center on improving the safety of foreign withdrawals and safety alerts. strict recall protocols, but as a food, chefs should thoroughly inspect ƒƒ FDA’s consumer news or proactive approach, he stores seafood FSMA news alerts will email each package from overseas. food safety alerts and recalls and meat in separate coolers, because if you subscribe to the “Never accept packages that are not a large portion of seafood he buys is service. served raw. ƒƒ Follow FDA recall alerts on clearly labeled,” says CDC’s Tauxe. He Twitter cites a recent example of an unmarked “When the item hits the dock, ƒƒ Visit USDA Food Safety 2-pound ground tuna product that and Inspection Service to our receiving office will check the made its way to several sushi restaurants subscribe to its email alerts. temperature, quality, freshness, and resulted in the contamination of a consistency and color, and inspect the popular sushi roll spicy tuna. “We had packaging,” Falsini says. “We put our 450 confirmed sick people as a result of above: Massimo Falsini own labels on the product, especially is executive chef at Four this outbreak in 2012,” he says. for fish and shellfish, so we can keep our Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka'upulehu, Massimo Falsini, CEC, executive chef own records if there is a problem with a Kailua Kona, Hawaii. of the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai specific item.”

22 Sizzle Fall 15 NExt In some cases, it’s necessary to clean issue ingredient equipment, supplies or other parts substitutions of the facility that might have come in contact with the recalled product. “The problem especially with listeria is it’s able to survive and grow at refrigerated temperatures,” Tauxe says. “The bacteria can lurk in the nooks and crannies of refrigerators.”

Checking with local health departments for sanitation support and advice in these situations can be helpful, Falsini says.

4. work with inspectors handwashing and proper cooking are still the two major lines of defense The idea of checking in with a local after knowing where your food comes health inspector during a recall situation from,” says Bauer. At a university serving can be worrisome. But if you’re running 20,000 meals a day and as many as a clean ship, there’s nothing to fear. 80,000 to 90,000 on football Saturdays, “The No. 1 thing for chefs to realize is maintaining strict food safety prevention that even though many might see the protocols is imperative. health department as a thorn in their The Four Seasons takes food labeling side, they are there to help you,” says one step further, not only marking Bauer, who previously served as an down the breed of fish, supplier, Indiana state health inspector. “If you receiving date and order date, but also have a good relationship with them, they the intended use outlet (restaurant, can save you from having a foodborne banquet, etc.) so product can be illness outbreak. They have many removed even if it’s left the coolers. resources that the average restaurateur doesn’t have access to.” “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” says Magnant. “Restaurants 5. processes for and operators that are trained and take proactive, preventative measures in this prevention area of food safety are less likely to be Once the recall situation has been involved in an outbreak.”  properly handled, making sure you can Amelia Levin is an award-winning food react faster and more efficiently in the industry writer, certified chef and cookbook future remains the name of the game. author. Her work has appeared in a variety of restaurant industry trade magazines as “We put as many of our staff through well as in the Chicago Tribune, Health and ServSafe training as possible, because Cooking Light magazines. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 23 Courtesy of Tanta Chicago Peruvian Cuisine: Here to Stay

Familiar ingredients presented in unfamiliar ways, Peruvian cuisine is set to take off as a menu trend. by Suzanne Hall Latin cuisines are gaining in acceptance, probably because of the popularity of Mexican food, Ludwig says. Millennials are fond of chiles, which in Peru are called ají, widely used in Latin cooking.

Another reason for the popularity of Peruvian foods is the changing demographics in the United States. “Younger immigrants tend to be more from Latin countries than from Northern European,” Ludwig says. In fact, in a 2012 article touting 15 great Peruvian restaurants in Los Angeles, LA Weekly wrote that there are more than half a million Peruvians living in the U.S.

nticuchos, ceviche and Ludwig has been tracking Peruvian cuisine causitas are not household for the last seven or eight years. While it A culinary terms. But they are isn’t breaking out in a huge way, it becomes getting there. From Chattanooga to more popular each year. “I have seen a Chicago, Louisville to Los Angeles, slow uptick in the number of Peruvian Peruvian cuisine is making itself known. restaurants across the country,” he says. It ranked No. 4 in ethnic trends for And they run the gamut, from fine dining the National Restaurant Association’s such as Tanta in Chicago to mom-and-pop “What’s Hot in 2015” culinary forecast. places such as Aji in Ooltewah, Tennessee. In 2014, USA Today called it the “new Tanta is one of about 30 Peruvian Chicago Thai,” and, in September 2011,The Wall restaurants worldwide owned by anta

T Street Journal called Peruvian food “the internationally renowned Peruvian of

next big thing.” chef Gaston Acurio. Regarded as the premier chef in Peru and perhaps all of Courtesy The start of a trend Latin American, Acurio describes his None of this is a surprise to Gerry native cooking as “a balance between Ludwig, CEC, corporate consulting chef history, nature, health and wellness and for Gordon Food Service, Grand Rapids, an unending profile of flavors.” Those Michigan. In his research/analysis and flavors come from Peru’s rich diversity. product development position, he visits The food reflects the influences of as many as 100 restaurants a year to see Spain, China, Japan, Africa and Italy, what’s on the menu and who is ordering and the Incas and Amazons. The result it. “Baby boomers are adventurous and is a richly multicultural cuisine that is millennials are savvy about global cuisine. approachable. It often highlights familiar The oldest are getting more discretionary foods prepared in unfamiliar ways or income and are spending it,” he says. combined with less-familiar ingredients.

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Well-known dishes but he grew up in California with Ceviche is Peru’s national and best- the influence of Pacific Rim foods. known dish. It is a simple dish of raw Peruvian dishes on the menu are a fish or seafood marinated in lime natural for him. Often he gives them juice that “cooks” it. Acurio’s favorite his unique twist. An example from his ceviche is sea urchin and scallops with ceviche menu is Tuna Old-fashioned. sea urchin leche de tigre, the citrus He marinates tuna chunks in local marinade used to cure the seafood. soy sauce, Kentucky bourbon, orange Other ingredients include lime, onions, and pineapple. The soy sauce reflects coriander, salt and pepper. “This dish the influence of Asian ingredients in previous spread: The ceviche has a perfect, creamy balance creating Peruvian cooking. The bourbon is a nod tasting at Tanta features three choices: Clásico with fish, red to Seviche’s Southern venue. a truly delicious dish,” Acurio says. At onions, cilantro; Mixto with fish, Tanta, the ceviche bar offers a variety squid, shrimp, rocoto (pepper); Peruvian cooking often shows up on of selections, including leche de tigre and Nikei with ahi tuna, Lamas’ menu, and for his first in a avocado, cucumber, tamarind. classic, which is the catch of the day series of Latin dinners, he devoted opposite from top: 1. Classic with red onions, habanero peppers, the whole menu to Peruvian dishes. Peruvian street food chaufa cilantro and choclo (corn); and ceviche aeropuerto. Photo by Gerry These included ceviche, tunatiradito mar y tierra, which is Peruvian bay Ludwig 2. Peruvian chef Gaston (similar to sashimi), pollo a la brasa Acurio owns approximately 30 scallops, shrimp, grapes, habanero and (smoked chicken), bistec saltado (sliced restaurants worldwide. passion fruit leche de tigre. left: Anthony Lamas, chef/owner skirt steak with garlic/parsley fries, of Seviche A Latin Restaurant At Seviche A Latin Restaurant, chimichurri and demi-glace) and arroz in Louisville, Kentucky, features Louisville, Kentucky, chef/owner con leche (rice pudding with Mexican Peruvian dishes on his menu. Anthony Lamas menus dishes from cinnamon). On a recent menu, the Photo by Ash Newell Photography right: Peruvian saltado throughout Latin America. Lamas’ influence of Peru is seen in a whole traditionally includes sliced beef, heritage is Mexican and Puerto Rican, section of ceviche, as well as with the aji hot chiles and french fries. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 fried egg; and stir-fried dishes such as lomo saltado, beef tenderloin with red onions, tomatoes, cilantro, garlic and soy sauce served with rustic potatoes and rice. These are usually served with french fries.

There are more than 3,000 varieties of potatoes in Peru. “They are the basis of our diet,” Delgado says. In addition to being fried for garnishes, they make up a whole category of menu items called causitas. These are mashed or whipped potato and chiles to which other ingredients are added. Causitas nikei Peru at the bar rocoto, a shrimp starter with horseradish is potatoes and chiles with ahi tuna, No Peruvian bar is complete chimichurri and jicama salsa. without pisco, a colorless to avocado, nori and rocoto cream. pale-yellow or amber brandy Ceviche is a good way for chefs to made from grapes and Potatoes also play a role on the menu traditionally used in a pisco introduce the tastes of Peru to their at Aji, a family owned restaurant. Pilar sour. To make one, combine menu, Acurio says. Some restaurants 1-ounce lemon juice, one Albernas is the chef and her daughter already do. Bonefish Grill, a seafood egg white, 1½ ounces pisco Sakei Riggs is the manager. The starter and ¾ ounce simple syrup. restaurant group based in St. menu includes causa limena, chilled Shake with ice and serve up. Petersburg, Florida, prepares it with mashed potatoes seasoned with aji chilled bay scallops, marinated shrimp, amarillo and filled with chicken salad fish, fresh pineapple, coconut and or avocado. The menu also includes cilantro, and guacamole with seasoned a Peruvian staple, anticuchos, fire- crisps for dipping. Some locations of grilled beef hearts on bamboo skewers McCormick and Schmick’s, an upscale seasoned with cumin, garlic and two seafood restaurant chain based in types of chiles, served with a side of Houston, use mango in their ceviche. seared sliced seasoned potatoes. Papas Staple ingredients fritas (french fries) are served with above: Tanta's Criollo many dishes, including bistec a lo pobre Jesus Delgado is chef de cuisine at Tiradito features a selection or pollo o pobre, grilled steak or chicken of fish, octopus, rocoto Tanta, where the menu includes a wide breast seasoned with chili peppers, (peppers) leche de trigre range of Peruvian dishes. A native of topped with two eggs, sweet plantains, and chalaca (mussels). Peru, he is a quarter Chinese. This opposite from left: 1. fries and a side of rice. is reflected in such dishes as Pulpo anticuchos is chaufa made with octopus, aeropuerto, which is pork fried rice “Many of our dishes are an infusion of chimichurri, crispy garlic with shrimp tortilla and spicy garlic; cultures, which is most likely how the and olive sauce. 2. Chef quinoa chaufa made from wok-fried french fry was introduced,” says Riggs. Jesus Delgado leads quinoa (a Peruvian staple), bell “On the other hand, we have potatoes the kitchen brigade at Tanta in Chicago. Photos pepper, mushroom, bean sprouts, in abundance, so we probably couldn’t courtesy of Tanta Chicago soy sauce, sesame oil, scallions and a resist frying them.” The key ingredient

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anta T

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Courtesy in Peruvian cuisine, though, is the aji. many varieties of corn used in various Peru’s most popular There are more than 300 varieties in ways. The salad is Andean corn mixed peppers Peru, and they all have different flavors. with fresh cheese or tofu, tomatoes, Aji amarillo is the most frequently used “We use quite a few varieties, often minced red and green onions, and fresh pepper in Peruvian cuisine. Yellow with a fruity taste and medium to hot heat, it is mixed together,” she says. aji amarillo, seasoned with a fresh herb sold fresh or ground. In its dried form, it is dressing. At Tanta, corn is included in called aji mirasol. The food at Aji, while less formal than the anticucho featuring beef hearts and Aji panca is another frequently used chili. It that at Tanta and Seviche, is authentic. in pastel de choclo, a Peruvian corn cake is a burgundy color when mature and has Albernas hails from Peru and had with mushrooms and cracklings. a berry-like taste. Sold as a dried whole established herself as a caterer before pepper, it’s also available ground or as a paste. Its mild heat lingers. opening the restaurant. She has a One of Ludwig’s favorite Peruvian corn regular customer base, and because preparations is to fry the tiny kernels Rocoto is an extremely hot pepper that for a bar snack. That’s one Peruvian resembles a small bell pepper. It is often the restaurant is near an interstate, stuffed with a ground beef mixture. Rocoto can she serves many travelers, often from dish that’s easy to add to a menu. So is be found ground, in a spice or as a hot sauce. ceviche and lobo saltado. “Tenderloin around the world. Aji limo is generally used to season ceviche. It with onions and tomatoes would fly on comes in different colors and is extremely hot. The most popular dishes at Aji are any menu,” Ludwig says. He predicts lomo saltado and the restaurant’s that the Peruvian trend will move signature entree aji de gallina, which beyond the millennials and continue to is pulled chicken breast in a creamy grow as more people are introduced to ají amarillo sauce served with boiled the cuisine.  potatoes and rice. Suzanne Hall has been writing about Aji’s signature salad makes use of chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for more another popular Peruvian ingredient, than 25 years. choclo, or corn. The country boasts

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 29

Capturing Food

Developing photography skills may help you become a more creative chef and could lead to a new career.

By Rob Benes to take good pictures, says Barkley, who has culinary degrees from the CIA and Le Cordon Bleu, Paris, and a communications degree from The University of Arizona, Tucson, Arizona.

Classes can usually be found at the school you attend. Or, inquire at local photography stores for a listing of classes in the area or ask a local photographer if he or she needs an assistant. “If you don’t understand the essential elements of photography, such as framing, exposure and lightning, you won’t capture what you’re shooting to the best representation,” Barkley says. ave you considered being a online classrooms Rodney Bedsole graduated from CreativeLive.com was founded food photographer instead to help hobbyists, creative the Institute of Culinary Education, of a chef? Well, maybe not, types and career-changers learn H New York, and worked in kitchens skills without being stuck in a but have you wanted to take a great before becoming a professional food classroom. Every course is live- shot of your oven-roasted chicken or streamed and free. The courses photographer in New Rochelle, New composed salad? Or felt the urge to take are offered for two to three days. York. He honed his photography skills If you miss a live class, the cost a good photo of an entree at a restaurant? is $50 to $300 to watch the with online classes from CreativeLive. video. Preordering classes is also “We’re in an increasingly visually driven com, which livestreams workshops available. world. We communicate more today on food photography. He also read Food Photography School with photographs and videos than at photography books and researched on (foodphotographyschool.com) any other time in history,” says John the Internet. offers more than 130 video-based Barkley, director of digital media for courses to help you learn how to Taking a lot of pictures, analyzing become a food photographer. all campuses of The Culinary Institute them and asking others to give honest of America (CIA). “Photography opinions of them is a great way to and video is an extension of our communication skills. The better improve photography skills. Look at you can express yourself through photos taken by other people, both photographs and videos just rounds out well-known photographers and those your overall professional profile, skills who post photos on social media sites, and capabilities.” Bedsole recommends. An added benefit of taking good photos learn how is to help with recipe development Taking a basic photography class is and plating. Understanding artistic the best starting point in your quest perspective allows chefs to further

32 Sizzle Fall 15 develop composition, plating and presentation skills. Many times, photos play a vital role when other chefs need to replicate a dish across a chain operation or for a large banquet.

“Taking quality photos will help develop better plating skills,” Barkley says. “Many times, a chef will look at a plate from a gastronomy perspective rather than an artistic perspective. Food should be seen from both viewpoints.” the gear There are many tools for food photography that can make images better. “What you as a photographer need to decide is your style and what “If you want to be a source of complex tools you need to achieve that style,” imagery for advertising, restaurant says Steve Hansen of Steven Hansen chains or anything commercial, there’s Images, Seattle. Hansen has a degree going to be more demands made from in baking and pastry from Seattle the client that requires dependable Central College, Seattle, and a degree in gear from reputable camera dealers,” culinary arts from the CIA. He worked says Hansen. in some of the best restaurants in the What Hansen looks for in a camera world and as a private chef before is quite different from what a sports combining his knowledge of food with shooter looks for. As a commercial his photography experience. food photographer, he’s only interested As the level of professional equipment in ease of use and the quality of the has become easier for consumers and sensor—that’s it. Everything on his enthusiasts to understand and appreciate, camera is set to manual settings, and opposite: Rodney Bedsole, a and because there is no need for film having two cameras with the same former culinary student and chef, and film development, the photography settings makes for a seamless and is a wedding, food and portrait photographer based in New Rochelle, playing field had leveled out. natural workflow. His preferred camera New York. Photo by Rodney Bedsole is the Nikon d810e. top: Product brands, such as this, look for There is an impression that digital photographers who can shoot complex cameras have made it harder for those Choice of glass (i.e., lens) is one of images. Photo by Rodney Bledsole in the photography field, because the most important decisions of bottom: Steve Hansen, a former chef, is a Seattle-based photographer who many people now have cameras. That photography. Having the ability to tilt specializes in shooting food, products is not the case. A top photographer and shift your focal plane is an absolute and cooking equipment. Photo by still requires skill and good equipment. necessity for a food photographer. For Steve Hansen www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 Barkley

John

of

Courtesy

that reason, Hansen will pressure and cooking for other people. rarely use any other lens “Chefs have the business tools and besides the Nikon 85mm mindset, which helped me make the PC-E and Nikon 45mm PC- transition,” says Hansen. E. “My food photography gear is only as good as my Young culinarians would be wise lenses, and these are worth to develop photography skills. For every penny,” he says. example, many times, smaller or independent restaurants do not have If only one lens is purchased, a budget to take photos for their it should be the Nikon websites, so someone who works 50mm. It’s inexpensive, sharp, small, in the kitchen and has invested the lightweight and great in low light. “It top: John Barkley works time to learn photography can show really depends on a person’s unique in digital media, film and initiative. “Understanding digital photography. His work has style and artistic vision on the type of photos, digital video and food styling been recognized with two equipment bought,” Hansen says. “What James Beard Awards, two is an important part of being a well- works for one person may not work for Telly Awards, an IACP Award educated culinarian,” says Barkley. of Excellence, as well as other another, so you need to experiment with industry accolades. different cameras and lenses.” Being a professional food bottom: Looking at photos from professional photographers photographer, however, is more than can help budding finding work just taking pictures of food. You are photographers improve skills. Chefs are well suited to make a running a business, which includes Photo by Rodney Bedsole transition from the kitchen to behind marketing, handling clients, being able opposite: Rodney Bedsole setting up food shots to teach a the camera, because they are often to produce art the client wants, travel class on CreativeLive.com. in the kitchen multitasking under and accounting.

34 Sizzle Fall 15 NExt issue research and development trick of chef the trade

Bedsole Food photographer Steve

Hansen explains a trade trick: five ways to create steam. There are numerous Rodney

of ways to add steam to an image on set,

but a majority of techniques require a dark background and a light illuminating Courtesy the steam from the back. “The human eye can see steam quite well without either of these requirements,” he says.

1. Clothes steamer: This tried and true method is for creating authentic steam on set. The benefit is a beautiful look and consistent output. Drawback is lack of precise placement of steam. 2. Microwave tampons: Soak a tampon in water and microwave When Bedsole started, he did a lot of photographers,” Bedsole says. “Keep for 30 seconds to create steam. cold calling, emailing and magazine them thinking about you and let them The consistent output allows time research. He would buy stacks of food know you’re always available for work.” for numerous shots, but a scene in which it can be hidden from the magazines, read the mastheads to find camera is needed. Target restaurants with a brochure that the photo editors and then email them. 3. Cigar smoke: Use cigar smoke tells your story and include photos you instead of steam to define the edges “The key is to pick a magazine that has have taken. Tell prospective clients to the steam. Cigar smoke can be photos that match what you’re currently photographed straight from the cigar you are available to shoot photos for taking—that’s the one you want to start or blown onto the scene through a their daily or special menus, websites, straw. The benefit is the look of the with and don’t give up,” he says. marketing materials, posters or other smoke, but it is important to remove blue tinges that often show up when Photo editors receive dozens of emails needs. “Some call back and some don’t. photographing smoke. from photographers each day, with the It’s a lot of cold calling that sometimes 4. Crinkled white paper: If shooting in daylight with 5- to 20-second same request to be hired for a photo results in little work and low pay,” exposures, maneuver a crinkled shoot, so you need to make multiple Bedsole says. “But the key is to keep piece of white paper through the contacts with them each month. going and not give up, because the hard scene. This method takes practice. 5. Spritz method: Use a heat gun to  When sending an email, do not attach work will pay off in the long run.” warm up the surface of the food photos. The photos will take too long to and immediately spritz with water. Rob Benes, a Chicago-based hospitality download and the photo editor will not This is handy when steam needs to industry writer, reports on recipe emanate from a specific location. wait. Instead, paste a link to a website development, beverage programs, business that shows your work or cut and paste a trends, equipment and chefs for trade, low-resolution photo into the email. educational and consumer publications.

In addition to email, put together a hard copy of your portfolio and mail it to the photo editor, or send a weekly postcard of recent work. “You want to make a positive impression and make yourself stand out from the other www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35

Where Are They Now? Former ACF Student Chef of the Year winners reflect on how competition shaped their success. // By Jody Shee

he ACF Student Chef of the Year award was introduced in 1987 by Baron H. Galand, CEC, AAC, HOF, then national T president. Initially, it was given to a student during ACF’s national convention, but in 1999, regional winners were chosen to vie for the national award. In 2003, it became a culinary cook-off where regional finalists competed for the national title.

Over the years, many students have basked in the culinary limelight after winning their regional or national ACF Student Chef of the Year competitions. The thrill of victory is the culmination of months of practice and newly developed disciplines. But after the lights fade, where do they end up? Sizzle caught up with four former winners to find out and to discover the impact of competition on their careers. alongside others with the same hunger and passion for culinary arts. He read a lot about food. “Food is the only thing I ever did well in,” he says.

Now, as executive chef at 610 Magnolia, “Anytime food leaves the kitchen, goes to a table, and the guest is blown away by the presentation or flavors and they leave happy, that’s a proud moment for me,” he says.

He believes that those who brush elbows with people bigger than them become bigger themselves. “If you surround yourself Nick Sullivan with professional people highly regarded in 2005 ACF Southeast Region the industry, it will breed you to be much Student Chef of the Year better and to set higher standards and do Age: 32 the best you can,” he says. This is one of the advantages of competition. Graduate of: Sullivan University, Louisville, Kentucky, associate of He also basked in the thrill of being science in culinary arts, hotel and surrounded by co-winners during restaurant management and baking and competitions. Once, he lost a pastry arts, 2004 competition to a young chef who was mentored by Roland Henin, CMC, Current job: Executive chef, 610 CCE, AAC—Thomas Keller’s mentor. Magnolia, Louisville “I humbled myself. ‘That’s OK,’ I Awards: Second place, ACF National thought. ‘I can understand this.’ It was a Student Culinarian of the Year, 2004; humble moment,” he says. Overall winner and gold medalist, ACF He found that competitions made him Junior Hot-Food Competition, 2004; soar—teaching him discipline and how “Top 5 Rising Chefs in the Nation,” important it is to be organized and Gayot.com, 2012 sanitary. There has to be a reason for n a snow day, high school senior every move you make, he says. “It taught O Nick Sullivan and his two best me speed and working around strict friends cooked breakfast. He liked how guidelines. That was appealing to me.” they worked as a team and he grasped He advises others not to just do academics how easily food brings people together. in culinary school. “Challenge yourself and “I fell in love with that aspect of it. The immerse yourself in every aspect. Work on comradery was for me,” he says. sanitation, organization and speed. Those He went to culinary school out of things will get you far. Competitions set high school and positioned himself that mind frame at an early age.”

38 Sizzle Fall 15 Sarah Deckert, CEC 2006 ACF Student Chef of the Year Age: 31

Graduate of: Johnson & Wales University, Denver, associate degree in culinary arts, 2004, and bachelor’s in foodservice management, 2006

Current job: Kitchen manager, USPACOM Flag Mess, Oahu, Hawaii

Awards: Armed Forces Chef of the Year One of her greatest mentors was Edward 2014; 2014 ACF Southeast Region Chef Leonard, CMC, AAC, who was executive of the Year; Six gold and six silver medals chef at Westchester Country Club, Rye, as part of the USA military team at the New York, and trained her for competition. 2012 Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (IKA), also known as the “culinary One time, Leonard critiqued her Olympics” in Erfurt, Germany; 2014 practice session and finally asked, “Do Enlisted Aide of the Year. you want to win this thing?” She was stunned that he asked. He told her she arah Deckert began her culinary needed to act like she wanted to win. S journey in ProStart, a two-year high school culinary program. “It was there I “In that moment, I thought I was taking thought, ‘Wow. I can do this as a profession.’ it seriously, but my discipline wasn’t It was such a great thing I enjoyed, it almost where it needed to be. I wasn’t paying felt like cheating,” she says. attention to details as much as I needed to. It was a pivotal moment in my Now she is active duty in the Army as training, and it’s what it took to win.” kitchen manager at USPACOM (United States Pacific Command) Flag Mess, In culinary school, don’t just do the Hawaii, a joint military facility. She minimum to get by, she says. “If you want is one of a team of 12 from different more out of your future career, volunteer, military services who serve USPACOM’s ask questions and get in competitions senior military and civilian leaders and and community events. I left with an their support staffs in a restaurant-like education few others did. I wanted to facility. She writes daily and special-event soak up every last bit of knowledge.” menus, orders product and is involved in production and daily leadership. So far, one of her biggest honors was being stationed at the Pentagon, Hawaii is an easy place to be and Arlington County, Virginia, and allows her to focus on what she loves: preparing food for senior military and attention to detail and making great civilian leaders. She felt especially food. Those are skills she developed privileged to be a part of award ceremony through competitions, she says. luncheons for Medal of Honor recipients. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 diamond sponsor is a you want, but when you get to the competition jewel competition, you’re the visiting team,” Flavor-base company and ACF Diamond- he says. You are unfamiliar with the level sponsor Custom Culinary, Inc., Lombard, Illinois, has sponsored the ACF surroundings and the equipment. Student Chef of the Year Award for 10 years. During one competition, he dropped “We choose to sponsor ACF at the top level, but in a very targeted way, on education,” the roasted butternut squash that he says Scott Gilbert, CEC, AAC, director of planned to puree and use as a dish culinary. A graduate of The Culinary Institute component. “I tried to stay composed, of America, Hyde Park, New York, he directs a culinary support team of six chefs involved and asked a judging chef if I could use in development and sales of a range of flavor a squash from the facility.” Permission systems for foodservice. was granted. He diced and sauteed it Gilbert has been involved in competitions in the still-hot pan he used to roast the and sees the value of giving back through education, not only with student JohnMichael Lynch duck, then pureed it. “It tasted good, competitions, but also through sponsorship 2008 ACF Student Chef of the Year and I won the competition,” he says. of high-level educational sessions at annual Age: 32 ACF national conventions. His career focus is country clubs for his

“I’m an ACF member, and I’m a sponsor. Graduate of: The Culinary Institute love of getting to know and cook for I want this organization to be healthy. of America, Hyde Park, New York, the membership. He recently joined The only way it will remain dynamic is Interlachen Country Club as executive by enabling students and giving them bachelor’s degree, professional studies experiences,” he says. in culinary arts management, 2006 chef overseeing a team of 32 spanning four outlets during peak season. “It’s ACF recognizes Custom Culinary’s Gold Current job: executive chef, Interlachen Label Food Bases, prepared by chefs fun building a team, sparking creativity Country Club, Minneapolis for chefs for their versatility, stability, in them and trying to teach them consistency, ease of use, superior flavor and safety through its Seal of Approval program. Awards: 2013 ACF Southeast Chef of something new daily,” he says. He plans the Year; Halpern’s Game Competition to establish culinary competitions “It’s not just selling chicken base, sauces and flavorings,” Gilbert says. “It’s bringing an Winner, Atlanta, 2012; 2009 and 2011, among the staff for the heights of authentic culinary component. The products U.S. Culinary Cup team competition professionalism it builds. “Anyone who bring function.” winner, Orlando, Florida; Ten ACF- competes is trying to get better.” He strongly supports culinary student sanctioned competition gold medals He doesn’t think culinary students competition. “I had amazing mentors and and seven silver medals in junior and people I’m still in touch with 30 years later realize what an all-encompassing job it professional categories who were important to me in the early is being a chef. “It’s a dynamic role. It’s years,” he says. “ACF needs to enable these competitions, and they need sponsors to former member of the U.S. not just about cooking. You’re dealing fund it. That’s what we want to do.” A “culinary Olympics” team once with people, juggling multiple projects, told JohnMichael Lynch that one year planning, ordering and looking for preparing for international competition ways to improve operations,” he says. is like seven years’ experience in the His advice to culinary students is industry. He agrees and adds that to follow and master basic cooking competition pushes the envelope. techniques before launching into “Competition helps prepare you for anything molecular gastronomy based. managing pressure situations and “That’s what competitions are all problem-solving. You can plan all about,” he says.

40 Sizzle Fall 15 Kelly Conwell 2009 ACF Student Chef of the Year Age: 28

Graduate of: Johnson County Community College, Overland Park, Kansas, 2009, associate degree in culinary arts and hospitality management

Current job: Pastry chef for all five Denver-based Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar venues, working out of the Kansas City, Missouri, location the school’s “culinary Olympics” youth Awards: Silver medal, ACF Culinary team. “It was one of the best experiences Youth Team USA tryouts, 2007; Silver ever,” she says. The team came in third, and medal, Schoolcraft College Competition, she was bitten by the competition bug. 2007; Young Chef Ambassador for World Competitions expanded her thought Association of Chef Societies, 2009-11 process and helped with organizational elly Conwell recalls hearing her skills, planning ahead and getting everything K name announced as Student Chef together. To this day, she regularly has a plan of the Year at the 2009 ACF National for what she needs to do. Convention in Orlando, Florida, standing, Competition also exposed her to new looking at her parents and her college ingredients and foods and provided mentor Felix Sturmer, and wondering the opportunity to meet new chefs and how in the world she got that far. eat at new places. It helped build her “I had to work, do my hours, then go to confidence while providing constructive school and have a life, and then practice criticism. “I won sometimes, but I lost (for competition). It’s a lot of hard sometimes. It all helps,” she says. work. But all that work, planning and At Kansas City’s Jax Fish House & Oyster organizing got me ready for the job I Bar, while she leads a team of three, she have now,” she says. works on menus and interacts with the chefs She is a pastry chef for the five Jax Fish at the other four locations. She also gets to House & Oyster Bar venues—a job she work the line occasionally to keep up with got because, after a working and culinary the savory side. She envisions expanding her school stint in Germany, she ended up role with the Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar back in Kansas City and landed a gig parent company —or following whatever as pastry sous chef at the James Beard other great opportunity life brings.  award-winning restaurant Bluestem. Jody Shee, an Olathe, Kansas-based freelance writer and editor, has more Before she even knew what stock was, her than 20 years of food-writing experience culinary teacher urged her to try out for and writes the blog www.sheefood.com. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 by degrees chocolate transfer sheet decor by degrees

Chocolate transfer sheet decor Recipe by Jan Lewandowski, CEPC Photography by Lennon Parker

hocolate transfer sheet Use colored cocoa butter to create decorations add color and flair designs that transfer to chocolate. For a C to a dessert. Premade chocolate brighter color and more contrast with decorations or transfer sheets can be dark chocolate, add white to a cocoa expensive, so it is worthwhile to learn butter color to make it opaque. Without the techniques to make your own. the addition of white, the color will be Jan Lewandowski, CEPC, translucent and subtle. is a baking instructor at Pulaski Fruit, herbs and tuiles can shrivel or Technical College Culinary Arts and soften in the cooler, and this limits their Applying tempered chocolate is one Hospitality Management Institute, and co-owner of Blue Cake Company, both use in pre-plated desserts or bakery of the trickiest parts. The chocolate in Little Rock, Arkansas. cases. However, chocolate transfer should be spread evenly in as few sheets can be made in advance and will strokes as possible and set until dry but keep their shape. flexible. Be careful not to overwork the chocolate or smear the transfer. Practice and planning are important for chocolate success, as is adapting to the Remember, the decoration should work environment. Our bakery is warm, accentuate the dessert and highlight so chocolate work is a challenge. In a the flavors. Keep a supply of warm environment, finished chocolate decorations on hand to make those decorations should be stored in airtight last-minute requests extra-special and containers in a cooler and kept chilled quick. All pastry chefs should have a throughout the process. In colder few of these on hand.  environments, work quickly to spread the chocolate and mold the decorations before the chocolate hardens.

42 Sizzle Fall 15 Step 1 Step 5 ingredients yield: 56 (1.5” x 4”) triangles, or 24 (3” x 8”) Create a design using colored cocoa To mold the chocolate, place the transfer triangles or 40 (2”) circles butter on an acetate sheet. For this design, on a parchment sheet and place another 6 oz. dark chocolate, tempered (approximately brush acetate with green cocoa butter in sheet on top. Ensure design side is down. 3-4 oz. to a half sheet of acetate) horizontal strokes. Let set until dry. Wrap the transfer around a rolling pin and ½ -1 oz. colored cocoa butter or white tape in place. Chocolate can also be set in a chocolate, melted and tempered baguette pan. ½-1 oz. white cocoa butter, if needed, melted and tempered

equipment 1 sheet acetate, cut 4-inch-by-12-inch strips (small) or 8-inch-by-12-inch strips (extra-large) Offset spatula, medium or large Step 2 4 sheets parchment paper, cut in half Cutting board Brush back of design with a thin layer of white Brush cocoa butter for a two-toned decoration. Step 6 Pizza cutter Allow chocolate to harden in fridge. To Rolling pin or baguette pan unmold, peel the paper off the chocolate Additional tools: square-edged comb, paint and release the decorations. Wear gloves to roller or toothbrush prevent fingerprints and protect chocolate from the warmth of your hands. The chocolate helpful hint should easily break apart along the cuts. ƒƒ Always make extra in case of breakage. ƒƒ For shiny decorations, use acetate sheets. Other materials that can be used are Silpats, heavy-duty freezer paper or newsprint. Step 3 ƒƒ Sprinkle a couple of drops of water Cut transfer sheet into the strip size needed underneath acetate to keep it from moving for decor. Spread tempered chocolate onto ƒƒ Work on a cutting board for easy transfer sheet. Allow it to set. If in a warm cleanup and to keep chocolate from kitchen, chill for a few minutes. setting too fast. ƒƒ Store decorations still attached to the transfer sheet to protect from dust and light. Keep in an airtight container at room temperature. Chill in the freezer before unmolding. ƒƒ For different designs, try splattering with a clean toothbrush or use a square- edged comb for stripes and wavy lines, add color with a paint roller or sponge, or use a thin stencil for intricate or repetitive patterns. The Art of the Step 4 Chocolatier (Wiley, 2011), by Ewald The chocolate should be set but flexible. Notter, is a great resource for designs Cut chocolate into desired shapes and and tips. forms. If the chocolate is too hard, use ƒƒ A hard coating chocolate, such warm cutters to prevent cracking. as Merkens, does not need to be tempered. When using, make sure it is not too hot, or it will melt the cocoa butter design and warp the acetate.

Chocolate decor adds eye-catching elements to plated desserts.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 international flavors netherlands international flavors

Netherlands Nicole Holten Baird, chef instructor, College of Western Idaho, Boise, Idaho

When I moved to Idaho in the late 1990s, this changed. I no longer had access to small, specialized ethnic markets. There were no more late nights going from one hole-in-the-wall eatery to another investigating new foods with unpronounceable names and unforgettable flavors. However, I encountered new and interesting foods, such as biscuits and gravy, corn dogs, barbecue brisket and seafood chowder. But I missed the food of the Netherlands, the thick, heavy soups, sweet dairy desserts, cakes and pastries.

I had learned how to cook sour meat stews of the Limburg province, sweet fruit tarts and white asparagus dishes from my grandmother. Her most famous was born and raised in the dish was sour rabbit stew, a traditional Netherlands. My mother is Dutch, dish of the Southern provinces that we I my father is Indonesian and my ate every Christmas. She marinated the grandmother is from Belgium. They meat in red wine vinegar with sliced were fantastic cooks, and I developed onions, black peppercorns, cloves and a an appreciation for such foods as goat, bay leaf for at least 24 hours. The meat rabbit, horsemeat and offal at an early age. was then dried off, dusted with flour

44 Sizzle Fall 15 and browned in a Dutch oven, then simmered with the onions and the rest of the marinade for at least two hours or until the meat fell off the bone. She would finish the sauce with a dark apple juice reduction or with brown sugar and a splash of vinegar. It was served with pommes duchesse, stewed red cabbage and apple, and roasted Brussels sprouts.

My mom made many traditional Dutch dishes. In winter, she would feed us such hearty soups as split pea, a thick soup made with split peas, carrot, onions and celery and filled with kielbasa and smoked bacon. Traditionally, it is not ready to eat until it's thick enough to hold a wooden spoon upright. This warming and pancakes are not part of the breakfast comforting soup is associated with ice tradition but are for dinner. Children skating, because it provides energy. prefer the batter made with white flour, but pancake recipes for adults will often left: Several dishes Another traditional dish is pancakes. use buckwheat, whole-wheat or both. of a traditional Thin, big-as-your-plate pancakes are a Indonesian rijsttafel special treat, especially when they come One of my favorites is a traditional found in Amsterdam. right: A Dutch studded with chunks of apple, pieces of dish called stamppot. Stamppots are pancake with apple. bacon or covered with a layer of melted mashed potatoes with a vegetable, and Photos courtesy of aged Gouda cheese. In the Netherlands, is identified by adding the particular Nicole Holten Baird www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 international flavors netherlands

potatoes with crispy, fresh and slightly tart vegetables is a country favorite.

Most stamppotten only consist of potatoes and vegetables and do not contain butter or milk. The potatoes are usually starchy enough to make up for the lack of dairy, and the vegetables release enough juice to make the dish moist, but not rich.

For meat, the Dutch eat braadworst, a spiced pork and beef sausage; gehaktballen, which are meatballs the size of softballs; and a tender stewed beef dish called draadjesvlees. The Netherlands is predominantly a dairy To learn more about vegetable’s name. Zuurkool stamppot, country, so beef is imported from traditional Dutch recipes, for example, is mashed potatoes with visit these websites: countries such as Argentina. Holland.com sauerkraut. Hutspot (carrot stamppot) is one of the few exceptions to the Dutch dairy cows are famous for the The Dutch Table is a blog written by Nicole Holten Baird. traditional name. It is said that in quality of their milk and the quantity It features traditional Dutch Dutch households, hutspot and they produce daily. Much of this is recipes and information on the another popular stamppot, boerenkool reflected in the vast assortment of food culture of the Netherlands. (kale), are eaten at least once a week. cheeses. Cheese is a product closely Many Dutch provinces have their own associated with the Netherlands, versions of stamppot. For example, and the Dutch are often referred foeksandijvie is made with curly endive. to as “cheese heads” (kaaskoppen). The greens are washed, cut into strips Dutch desserts showcase dairy in and mixed or foeksen—which is the different ways. Dessert is often a dialect of Overijssel, the province of small serving of yoghurt with fresh this dish—with mashed potatoes. This fruit or the traditional vla, a custard combination of warm, fluffy mashed that comes in over 20 flavors. Some

46 Sizzle Fall 15 christmas rabbit Yield: 4

Ingredients: 1 medium-sized (approximately 3 lbs.) rabbit 2 cups water or rabbit stock, divided 2 cups red wine vinegar 2 bay leaves 10 black peppercorns 3 cloves 1 large onion, peeled, sliced thin 2 T. butter, divided 1/3 cup brown sugar 1 T. cornstarch 1/3 cup water Kosher salt and pepper

Method: Fabricate rabbit. In large bowl, add 1-cup water, vinegar, bay leaves, peppercorns, cloves and onion. Add meat. Cover; refrigerate overnight. Remove meat from marinade; pat dry. favorite flavors of vla are vanilla, At the same time, the country is in the In Dutch oven, heat 2 T. butter; strawberry, butterscotch andblanke top five for Michelin-starred restaurants. brown meat on all sides. Remove from pan. Separate onions from vla (a white custard that looks similar It is the world’s second largest exporter marinade and brown; add meat to thick yogurt, but is sweeter and of fresh fruits and vegetables. And, in back in. Pour marinade over less tangy). Griesmeelpudding is a 2014, the Netherlands was recognized meat. Bring to a boil, turn to low and simmer for about 30 minutes. wobbly dessert made with grits and by Oxfam, an international organization Stir in brown sugar. Add second milk and served with a red berry that fights poverty and injustice, as cup of water, if needed. Bind sauce. Another traditional dessert is having the most plentiful, nutritious, sauce with mixture of cornstarch and 1/3 cup water; season with bitterkoekjespudding, which is made with healthy and affordable diet in the salt and pepper. Simmer for bitter almond cookies. world. After researching and writing another hour or until meat falls about traditional Dutch food for so off bone. The country’s cuisine is rich, full of many years, I realize why. We don’t Serve with boiled potatoes or history and varied for such a small area. pommes duchesse and braised appreciate it because it’s always there. Ask the Dutch about their culinary red cabbage. It’s nourishing, comforting, healthy and traditions and they will most likely flavorful, but it is not elegant. It is food grimace, shrug their shoulders or that is close to our hearts and that is opposite from left: 1. A sometimes even apologize that the where it stays. It is the best-kept secret Dutch dessert made of sweet Dutch kitchen does not have much to semolina pudding and red of the Netherlands.  offer. Few cookbooks exist on Dutch berry sauce. 2. A cheese cuisine, and, in all fairness, it will never vendor stall at the Albert Cuyp sweep any nation off its feet with mashed market in Amsterdam. above: A Southern Dutch dish potato dishes, raw herring and split-pea of sour rabbit stew served soup. The lack of Dutch restaurants with pommes duchesse, red around the world is glaring proof. cabbage and Brussels sprouts. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 47 the interview kevin sbraga the interview

Kevin Sbraga By Ethel Hammer

executive chef, Rat’s Restaurant at the live for a year while he planned his first Grounds for Sculpture, Hamilton, New restaurant. “This was a ton of money Jersey, 2009-2010; chef/consultant, to me,” he says. “I was shaking when I Sbraga Consulting, LLC, Philadelphia, went to the bank.” And if you think Top 2011-present; owner/chef, Sbraga, Philadelphia, 2011-present; owner/chef, Chef was a breeze for him, think again. The Fat Ham, Philadelphia, 2013-present. “Top Chef was one of the toughest things I ever did. I was away from my accolades and family for weeks. We didn’t know what accomplishments we were doing, and we were carted Worked on Latin Evolution, a cookbook by Jose Garces, 2006; Best Meat around without being told where we Presentation, Bocuse d’Or USA, were going or what we’d be doing until born Orlando, Florida, 2008; Winner, “Top we got there.” Still, Sbraga’s confidence Willingboro, New Jersey Chef,” Bravo Media LLC, Season Seven, in the power of personality is matched resides 2010; Sbraga listed on Esquire’s “Best by his certainty about being true to his New Restaurants 2012;” Sbraga named Philadelphia vision. After all, his ability to believe in “Philadelphia’s Lightweight Knockout,” his inventiveness may well be the key to learned the trade Bon Appetit, 2012; Sbraga named “No. Growing up, Harvey’s Bakery, Willingboro; 1 Restaurant on Avenue of the Arts,” his winning “Top Chef.” culinary studies, Burlington County Zagat’s Restaurant Guide, 2013; The A mischievous schoolboy, Sbraga Institute of Technology, Westhampton, Fat Ham named among “Philadelphia’s New Jersey, 1993-1997; stagiaire, 10 Hottest Restaurants,” Zagat, 2014; only became focused when he started L’Alban Chambon, Brussels, 1998; Sbraga named “Diner's Choice,” studying culinary arts at a vocational bachelor’s degree, culinary arts, Johnson OpenTable, 2015. high school in New Jersey. Then, while & Wales University, Miami, 2003. at Johnson & Wales University, he did a culinary path evin Sbraga quit his job as stage at a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Cook, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, Florida, executive chef at a sculpture Brussels. “The restaurant was very well 2001-2003; executive chef, Le Mas garden in New Jersey when he received. The chef Dominique Michou Perrier, Philadelphia, 2004-2005; chef K was a master in old-world French de cuisine, The Grill at The Ritz-Carlton, received $125,000 prize money for Philadelphia, 2005-2007; culinary winning the seventh season of Bravo technique,” he says. “While there I saw a director, Garces Restaurant Group, 2008; TV’s “Top Chef.” He used the money to cannoli made with egg white using only

48 Sizzle Fall 15 your best advice to culinary students? The most important thing people can do is to work for the chef they most admire. But you have to understand that you might not see the chef all the time. When people come to work with me, they expect to see me cooking on the line every night. one spoon. It blew my mind. I’d never His second restaurant, The Fat Ham, But I might be much more valuable conversing with the seen anything like it before.” features classic Southern cuisine with guests or looking at financial lots of pork, pickling and hot chicken. performance, not just cooking He has worked for some of the best food. My goal is to employ the At Sbraga & Company, his yet-to-open chefs, including Jose Garces, chef/ most talented people who can third restaurant in Jacksonville, Florida, take on my ideas. In the last owner of Garces Group, whom he a 72-inch wood-burning grill will allow 10 years, chefs must do a lot credits with being both a great chef more things than just cook. him to showcase grilled corn, asparagus and a great restaurateur. “It’s really and onions, as well as Mayport shrimp hard balancing the two,” he says. He on a menu that will feature at least 50 also worked for Steve Starr, of STARR Restaurants, whom he considers “a percent Southern crops and grains. “I visionary.” “He’ll go to great lengths to know what I want and was always that create an amazing ambience and get the way,” he says. opposite: Kevin right people to manage the kitchen and Working in his parents’ bakery as Sbraga. Photo by the front of the house.” a kid, he remembers the smell of Michael Spain-Smith left: Hot chicken, cinnamon buns, cupcakes, doughnuts Now fully launched with two celebrated with brioche, ranch restaurants, Sbraga features his own and cheesecake. An inveterate traveler, dressing and dill brand of American food touting global Sbraga is miles beyond that bakery pickles, is a popular in Willingboro. So far, he has visited dish at The Fat Ham. influences at Sbraga, his namesake right: Collards at restaurant in Philly. Foie gras soup Hong Kong, Mexico, Singapore, The Fat Ham are with hints of brandy, cream, kaffir lime, Anguilla, Honduras, Greece, Turkey, made with pork lemon grass, honey and rose-petal Haiti, the Cayman Islands, Kosovo and shank and potlikker. Photos by Macedonia. And right after we spoke relish indicates the kind of originality Vanessa Beahn flowing from a chef unafraid to love with him, he was off to explore Hawaii Photos courtesy of what he loves and reject what he doesn’t. and China. Sbraga Dining www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 49 the interview kevin sbraga

tell us about going to Le Bec Fin as a teenager. ks: My parents knew I was interested in food, so they ordered a limo and took me to Le Bec Fin for my 17th birthday. At that time, Le Bec Fin and The Fountain (both in Philadelphia) were No. 1 and No. 2 in the country. I don’t remember what I ate, but I know my stepsister ordered sweetbreads, and she had no clue what they were. The chef Georges Perrier came out and signed the menu, and I still have it. I had never seen anything like this restaurant before. Now, Georges Perrier dines with us all the time. He was surprised and excited when he first saw escargot “in the style of ‘Le Bec Fin’” on the menu at Sbraga. He has an exceptional palate and understands balance in food to an extraordinary degree.

what kind of kid were you? tell us about balance. ks: I was kind of a jokester, definitely ks: It’s one of the things that I am skilled athletic and not very intellectual until I in and excited to see in others. It comes found something that interested me. In down to very simple levels of taste. eighth grade, I dropped a stink bomb at I’m working with salty, sweet, savory, school, and they had to evacuate that bitter, sour and umami. Foods are really part of the building. I definitely gave my exciting with two or three different tastes. parents a challenging time. I grew up For example, you decide what tastes go going to a Catholic school, but decided to with the meaty, iron-y flavor of a green go to vocational school in eighth grade. vegetable and try to balance flavors and By 10th grade, I had started to change. tastes. The other day we were working I studied cooking, and I was able to be with an arancini, a rice fritter fried into creative and didn’t have to sit still. a ball. We fixed a tomato sauce with chermoula--a North African spice blend Today my mind goes 16 to 20 hours a with cumin and garlic--paired with fennel. day. My dreams are usually work-related, But, the sauce overpowered the rest of like forgetting to take the lobsters out the dish. So instead of rice, we used of the steamer or forgetting to turn the Italian tropea onions that look like long stove off. My dreams are not about shallots, and this balanced the dish. failing but about forgetting. What is your culinary concept? I see myself a lot in my son Angelo, ks: I just like delicious food. As I’m getting who will be 5. We look alike and have older, I’m getting more and more picky. I the same mannerisms. He is full of like things simply prepared. For example, energy, very competitive and is always I am not excited about cardamom, which eating. His vitality is one of the things is getting lots of other people excited. I adore about him and that he admires Sometimes I feel like I’m out of touch, about me. but the other day I said to myself, I’m on

50 Sizzle Fall 15 target and the others don’t get it. I figure, if I don’t like it, I don’t like it.

At Sbraga the menu changes almost every week, but there is one dish that never changes—the foie gras soup, which I made for a group of VIPs after Top Chef. I wanted to make the soup more Southeast Asian, so I added lemon grass, ginger, Thai chilies, shallots, onions, and a rose-petal relish with onions and pickled onions. I’ve never tasted anything like this before. You have to make food that is really you. They say I won Top Chef because of my interpretation of the Singapore Sling. This was the first time a dessert had so much influence.

On the other hand, at The Fat Ham, the signature dish is hot chicken, which is like fried chicken and hot wings combined. It’s the best thing we’ve ever made. We approach it the same way it’s done in Nashville. We put it on white bread with pickles, then, cool it down with ranch dressing. I had it back in Nashville at Bolton’s Spicy Chicken and Fish and afterward dug deep into what is hot chicken. The important thing is the cayenne pepper and lard. Other people not many fine-dining restaurants in the are scared of lard. We tried chicken, beef communities, but there are a lot of great and duck fat, but only pork lard works. restaurants. I recently went to a great Puerto Rican restaurant in a strip mall in how can we get more African- Oak Ridge, New Jersey. Those gems are Americans into chef positions? out there. ks: People need to start young. I was 10 years old and knew I wanted to I think there is still a stigma among be a chef. Children also need to be African-Americans about cooking being opposite: The Fat Ham's encouraged early from the home. I domestic work. But now chefs are oyster slider includes accompaniments of thought I was, but learned much later considered rock stars thanks to the Food coleslaw and gribiche that my parents had a lot of hesitation. Network. The best thing is to see African- on a yeast roll. They wanted me to be a football star, American chefs continue to grow and not above: Artic Char at doctor or lawyer. They had a bakery and to be categorized as African-American Sbraga, his namesake knew firsthand that cheffing was hard on chefs. Women should not be categorized restaurant, features family life. as female chefs, either.  soy-glazed asparagus, miso tofu and charred All aspiring chefs need to be excited Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and lemon dashi. Photo by about all kinds of food. True, there are cartoonist based in Chicago. Jason Varney www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 51 the quiz fall 2015 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

Did you read all the articles in this issue? Take the Sizzle Quiz to test your knowledge. 12 24 48

1. Which city did Young Chef Ambassador 6. What is the Peruvian word for pepper? 11. What is stamppot? Victor Kendlehart try Bunny Chow? a. Aji a. Mashed potatoes and a vegetable a. Johannesburg b. Choclo b. Red cabbage and rabbit b. Durban c. Leche de Tigre c. A custard similar to yogurt in texture c. Cape Town d. Tiradito and flavor d. Amsterdam d. A hearty stew served during holidays 7. Which of the following is a popular Peruvian 2. What are the three classical garnishes for dish in the U.S.? 12. Which of the following can be used in place tournedos Rossini? a. Pollo a la brasa of Acetate sheets? a. Foie gras, spinach puree and black truffle b. Ceviche a. Newspaper b. Black truffle, foie gras and French c. Lomo saltado b. Heavy-duty freezer paper green beans d. Papas fritas c. Silpats c. Foie gras, black truffle and Madeira sauce d. All of the above d. Foie gras fritter, black truffle shavings and 8. What is the most important piece of gear a harvest vegetables photographer can have? 13. Which of the following is important for a. Camera chocolate success? 3. What is the presentation method for the b. Lighting equipment a. Practice center-of-the-plate protein in the modern c. Lenses b. Planning version of tournedos Rossini? d. Photoshop c. Work environment a. Leek-ash inlaid beef tenderloin d. All of the above b. Grilled medium rare 9. Digital cameras have made it harder for those c. Sea salt encrusted filet mignon in the photography field. 14. Kevin Sbraga won which popular TV cook- d. None of the above a. True off show? b. False a. “Hell’s Kitchen” 4. What drug will be illegal for meat producers to b. “Top Chef” use without the oversight of a doctor by 2016? 10. Since most of the cows in the Netherlands c. “Chopped” a. Hormones are for dairy, which country do they import d. “Cupcake Wars” b. Vaccinations beef from? c. Dewormers a. England 15. Which dish is never removed from the d. Antibiotics b. Ireland weekly menu at Sbraga? c. United States a. Foie gras soup 5. Listeria will continue to grow and thrive in d. Argentina b. Escargot refrigerated temperatures. c. Artic char a. True d. None of the above b. False

52 Sizzle Fall 15 Industry Profile philip tessier industry profile

Philip Tessier Consultant at Hestan Commercial, Anaheim, California, and coach, Team USA, 2017 Bocuse d’Or

CEC, competed—the magnitude of the talent. It affects and helps people more than competition left an impression on him. they realize. Competition training is different Feeling the energy and experiencing the from training in a restaurant. Competition national pride firsthand, he was hooked. requires a great amount of discipline, He had only competed in a New York Food dedication and tenacity. After training for Show recipe competition and a Les Dames this competition, Stover is a different person d’Escoffier mystery basket competition in than he was a year ago. It was tough for him 2000 to raise money for school. at times, and he struggled to push through. There was even a period of time when we When no one signed up to represent the U.S. weren’t sure if he was going to work out. At in the 2015 Bocuse d’Or, Tessier decided to times, he was hard to teach, didn’t listen or compete. At this time, he had three years at take criticism well, but in the end, it matured the helm as executive sous chef at The French him in an incredible way. Laundry. So he stepped down and trained for over 3,000 hours with Skylar Stover, who was What is the goal for this competition? the commis for the USA team. It is important to raise awareness of U.S. cuisine within the international community Why should chefs train for the Bocuse and raise awareness of the Bocuse d’Or d’Or? That is the million-dollar question. with Americans. In Japan, people have been Culinary competition is exciting. There is watching the Bocuse d’Or on TV since they hilip Tessier started cooking at home dedication, passion and national pride. This were children. Everyone knows about it and because his mother worked late. He is an opportunity to see the walls come supports their country. America has always P enjoyed it and, at the time, being a down between countries, which allows for been the underdog in this competition, and chef was an up-and-coming career choice. camaraderie and sharing of knowledge, other countries don’t realize that we have He got a job at the Colonial Williamsburg while working with several great U.S. chefs great restaurants and cuisine, not across the Inn, Williamsburg, Virginia, at 16, working in one year. You can work for great chefs in board, but in several pockets across the U.S. for its executive chef Hans Schadler, CEC, restaurants, but this is a once in a lifetime there are extraordinary things happening. AAC, and garde manger chef Claudia opportunity to focus and not divide time Placing second in the Bocuse d’Or, without a Fitzgerald, both whom he credits as his between work and training. It’s trying to doubt, elevated our cuisine internationally. first mentors and whom suggested he achieve the highest level of our craft. What is the mentor’Or BKB foundation? study at The Culinary Institute of America Also, it gives us a real sense of national pride. Its intention is to build a culinary community in Hyde Park, New York. Standing in front of thousands of people, to help cross the divide between competition holding the U.S. flag and then having your Tessier’s first experience in an international chefs and restaurant chefs and to help support country announced and be recognized culinary competition was the 2015 chefs that want to compete, but may not have Bocuse d’Or held every two years in Lyon, for what you have done, I have never the opportunity because of their jobs. It will France, since 1987. After seeing the 2013 experienced anything like it. provide opportunities to the hardest working Bocuse d’Or live— when the USA team Why is culinary competition important? individuals out there through stages and Rich Rosendale, CMC, and Corey Siegel, Culinary competitions reward hard work and grants to help train for competition.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 53 ACF Certification is the stamp of approval employers are seeking. “When we have two equally qualified candidates and one of them is certified, certification makes a difference in our decision. We are confident that the certified candidate is a serious culinarian, who is properly trained and has demonstrated skills as measured through the standards of our industry.” –Sherie Valderrama, Senior Director, Sodexo Talent Acquisition Group

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