Every Winter, Thousands of Canadian Anglers Flock South to Costa Rica

Every winter, thousands of Canadian anglers flock south to Costa Rica. Associate editor BOB SEXTON Hooked takes on the tough task of finding out why WINTER escApes on 2010 PuraBy BoB Sexton s soon as I set the hook, thigh when it swooped down. As my girl- Alone or sometimes in groups, they’ll I knew something was friend, Norine Williamson, watched in swim up to a school of tuna, mackerel strange. There was ten- muted horror Vidaand clicked a few photos or jack and use their long bills as blud- sion on the line, but for posterity, Lopez grabbed the bird, laid geons, thrashing and bashing their prey whatever was at the it out on the motor and held its beak as I before scooping them up whole into A other end didn’t feel twisted out the hook. The injury was sur- their gaping maws. like any fish I’d ever caught before. The prisingly minor, and when we let the bird There’s also an alluring element of headshakes were light, then heavy, then go, it stood there for a couple of seconds, danger when you target billfish. If a 400- absent, then light again. Since it was my looked at us in what I swear was disgust, pound marlin on the line suddenly turns first time fishing in Costa Rica, however, I squawked loudly and flew off, presum- and jumps at the boat, for example, you’re just figured this was the norm. Then I saw ably none the worse for wear. going to want to get out of the way—or what looked like a gull struggling to take “He was very angry,” Lopez said, and risk becoming a human shish kebab. off from the water and I realized I’d done laughed. It was an unexpected turn of Even getting to this part of the world what any sane angler would never want events, for sure, but that’s how it goes can be somewhat of an adventure. In to do—catch a bird with a fishing hook. when you’re travelling and fishing in a our case last December, that meant a It was a royal tern, to be exact. “Umm, foreign country—you have to roll with nine-hour layover in Atlanta thanks to a tengo un pequeño problema,” I said to Juan the punches. All the same, I thought, my missed connection, then a treacherous, Pablo Lopez, the captain of our panga, offshore trip scheduled for two days later nine-hour minivan trip from the Costa the local style of fibreglass boat. “I’ve got had better go smoother than this. That’s Rican capital, San José, to Puerto Jimé- a small problem.” I sheepishly pointed not to say Costa Rica is a tough place to nez—it would have been a 45-minute to the bird. He just shrugged and smiled enjoy, mind you, even on a bad day. flight, but ours was cancelled because of as if I’d told him I like ice cream, or as heavy rain. though he saw birds caught on hooks all ne of the more remote The last leg, however, made it all worth- the time. parts of the country, the while—a half-hour jaunt across the calm Lopez calmly put the boat in reverse and Golfo Dulce region is waters of Golfo Dulce by panga to the Playa we headed back to assess the situation. It home to 13 major eco- Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge, our home for was around 11 a.m. under a hot sun, and systems, including huge the next six days. And as the cliché goes, we’d already been trolling for snook, tuna O tracts of tropical forest, you appreciate something more when you TROPICAL TALE: (TOP) and wahoo in Golfo Dulce along the east diverse and plentiful wildlife, giant Juras- have to work for it. THE AUTHOR AND side of the Osa Peninsula for about four sic Park-like plants, and world-renowned Of course, we weren’t the first Canuck FULVIO VENEGAS hours. We hadn’t had much luck other sportfishing waters. The sportfishing. anglers to visit this part of the world. LAND A SAILFISH; than a small jack, and now I’d gone and That’s why I’m here. Specifically, I want to According to a recent study by the Billfish (LEFT TO RIGHT) caught a bird. This was not going to sit catch a billfish, to experience that legend- Foundation and the University of Costa THE AUTHOR'S well with the guests back at the eco-lodge ary fight, that stuff of Hemingway-esque Rica, some 4,000 Canadians fished in N GUEST CABIN; THE when they ask how the fishing went. literature. And that speed. Clocking in at the country in 2008. Mind you, not all of illiamso BIRD THAT HIT THE W e Fortunately, the hungry bird hadn’t roughly 110 kilometres an hour, they’re them ventured to remote Osa. But the way N AUTHOR'S BAIT; A ori swallowed the hook, and had instead among the fastest creatures in the ocean. I saw it, every angler needs a base of opera- N FLOATING BAIT SHOP gotten stuck in the meaty flesh of its Billfish are also fearsome predators. tions, so why not the jungle? AfricAn hunting Adventure: An essentiAl primer p. 47 >> 42 Outdoor Canada WINTER 2010 + WINTER 2010 Outdoor Canada 43 << WINTER escApes uIlt mostly from recycled 2010 materials and the fallen logs of 18 different species of tree, the SAILFISH RULES Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge fits seamlessly into the lush green While in Costa Rica’s Golfo Dulce B environment. And that’s no region, i’d been concerned about coincidence. Owner Michael Butler and his wife, the impact the local commercial GOLFO DULCE PLANNER Donna, speak passionately about wanting to pro- fishery is having on the sailfish vide a unique outdoor experience for guests, while population—although visiting GETTING THERE: Flights from leaving as small an ecological footprint as pos sible. sport anglers must practise catch- major cities across North America “We wanted to build something that had little and-release, Costa Ricans can regularly land in the Costa Rican impact,” he says. legally target the fish using long capital, San José. From there, it’s Consisting of a main building with a kitchen, lines. But as it turns out, the area’s a 45-minute flight, typically in bar, communal dining room, open-air lounge and sailfish population is mostly a Cessna Caravan (pictured) to a clutch of guest cabins, the lodge certainly strives healthy, according to Russell Nel- either Puerto Jiménez or Golfito, to be as comfortable yet sustainable as possible. son, chief scientist with the Miami- the two main towns on either side For starters, the facility is nearly completely run based Billfish Foundation. of Golfo Dulce. on solar power. So, unlike many fishing lodges in And things stand to improve. ACCOMMOdATIOn: Whether remote parts of Canada, you won’t hear the con- last January, the sportfishery you’re looking for a backpacker’s stant hum of a gas-powered generator. As well, scored a major coup when Costa hostel or a luxury resort, there are all organic waste is composted, and recyclable Rica banned the export of sailfish numerous options to choose from. materials are shipped across the bay to a depot in meat. Nelson says this should Crocodile Bay near Puerto Jiménez Puerto Jiménez. There’s also a solar drying room lead to less demand for the fish is popular with sport anglers. i was for the laundry, along with many more innovative and, in turn, reduce the commer- a guest at Playa Nicuesa Rainforest features. “It was an opportunity to showcase dif- cial harvest. Along with the ban, lodge, a short boat trip from either ferent technologies,” says Donna. it’s also now illegal for commer- Golfito or Puerto Jiménez. Of course, the lodge does reside in a rainfor- cial fishermen to use live bait on PERMITS: Fishing licences cost est—getting up to 200 inches of rain a year—so their long lines. U.S.$25 and can be provided by there are times when it has to rely on a backup die- Sport anglers, too, must follow was just hit, thrusting it into my hands. I grabs the leader and the fish’s bill. Then your outfitter. sel generator. For the most part, though, the solar new regulations. it’s now unlawful rest the rod butt on my upper thigh as he he fumbles and the fish shakes loose. I’m GEAr: Book a trip with a recom- power system is sufficient, and plans are under- for catch-and-release fishermen wraps a fighting belt around my waist. thinking the worst. But no, it’s still on. mended outfitter to ensure the way to switch over to a generator that runs on The Ocean Blue: (From Top) to take billfish out of the water The line is still screaming out as I slide the Now the fish takes off for another run, proper rods, reels, tackle and bait vegetable oil. To offset its use of fossil fuel, mean- The author fights his marlin, after catching them. That rule butt into the holder on the belt. My gut nearly diving straight beneath the boat. are included. while, the lodge contributes to a program that Michael Butler and his Blue- came into effect after my visit, is tight with anxiety. We’re using circle There’s more minor panic and random CLOTHING: Costa Rica’s Golfo buys rainforest land for reforestation.

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