Every winter, thousands of Canadian anglers flock south to Costa Rica. Associate editor BOB SEXTON Hooked takes on the tough task of finding out why WINTER Escapes on 2010 PuraBy Bob Sexton s soon as I set the hook, thigh when it swooped down. As my girl- Alone or sometimes in groups, they’ll I knew something was friend, Norine Williamson, watched in swim up to a school of tuna, mackerel strange. There was ten- muted horror Vida and clicked a few photos or jack and use their long bills as blud- sion on the line, but for posterity, Lopez grabbed the bird, laid geons, thrashing and bashing their prey whatever was at the it out on the motor and held its beak as I before scooping them up whole into A other end didn’t feel twisted out the hook. The injury was sur- their gaping maws. like any fish I’d ever caught before. The prisingly minor, and when we let the bird There’s also an alluring element of headshakes were light, then heavy, then go, it stood there for a couple of seconds, danger when you target . If a 400- absent, then light again. Since it was my looked at us in what I swear was disgust, pound marlin on the line suddenly turns first time fishing in Costa Rica, however, I squawked loudly and flew off, presum- and jumps at the boat, for example, you’re just figured this was the norm. Then I saw ably none the worse for wear. going to want to get out of the way—or what looked like a gull struggling to take “He was very angry,” Lopez said, and risk becoming a human shish kebab. off from the water and I realized I’d done laughed. It was an unexpected turn of Even getting to this part of the world what any sane angler would never want events, for sure, but that’s how it goes can be somewhat of an adventure. In to do—catch a bird with a fishing hook. when you’re travelling and fishing in a our case last December, that meant a It was a royal tern, to be exact. “Umm, foreign country—you have to roll with nine-hour layover in Atlanta thanks to a tengo un pequeño problema,” I said to Juan the punches. All the same, I thought, my missed connection, then a treacherous, Pablo Lopez, the captain of our panga, offshore trip scheduled for two days later nine-hour minivan trip from the Costa the local style of fibreglass boat. “I’ve got had better go smoother than this. That’s Rican capital, San José, to Puerto Jimé- a small problem.” I sheepishly pointed not to say Costa Rica is a tough place to nez—it would have been a 45-minute to the bird. He just shrugged and smiled enjoy, mind you, even on a bad day. flight, but ours was cancelled because of as if I’d told him I like ice cream, or as heavy rain. though he saw birds caught on hooks all ne of the more remote The last leg, however, made it all worth- the time. parts of the country, the while—a half-hour jaunt across the calm Lopez calmly put the boat in reverse and Golfo Dulce region is waters of Golfo Dulce by panga to the Playa we headed back to assess the situation. It home to 13 major eco- Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge, our home for was around 11 a.m. under a hot sun, and systems, including huge the next six days. And as the cliché goes, we’d already been trolling for snook, tuna O tracts of tropical forest, you appreciate something more when you TROPICAL TALE: (top) and wahoo in Golfo Dulce along the east diverse and plentiful wildlife, giant Juras- have to work for it. tHE AUTHOR AND side of the Osa Peninsula for about four sic Park-like plants, and world-renowned Of course, we weren’t the first Canuck FULVIO VENEGAS hours. We hadn’t had much luck other sportfishing waters. The sportfishing. anglers to visit this part of the world. LAND A SAILFISH; than a small jack, and now I’d gone and That’s why I’m here. Specifically, I want to According to a recent study by the Billfish (LEFT TO RIGHT) caught a bird. This was not going to sit catch a billfish, to experience that legend- Foundation and the University of Costa THE AUTHOR'S

well with the guests back at the eco-lodge ary fight, that stuff of Hemingway-esque Rica, some 4,000 Canadians fished in GUEST CABIN; THE

when they ask how the fishing went. literature. And that speed. Clocking in at the country in 2008. Mind you, not all of illiamso n BIRD THAT HIT THE Fortunately, the hungry bird hadn’t roughly 110 kilometres an hour, they’re them ventured to remote Osa. But the way W AUTHOR'S BAIT; a ori n e

swallowed the hook, and had instead among the fastest creatures in the . I saw it, every angler needs a base of opera- N FLOATING BAIT SHOP gotten stuck in the meaty flesh of its Billfish are also fearsome predators. tions, so why not the jungle? African hunting adventure: An essential primer p. 47 >> 42 Outdoor Canada WINTER 2010 + WINTER 2010 Outdoor Canada 43 << >> 44 W ferent technologies,” says Donna. features.“Itwasopportunityan showcaseto dif for the laundry, along with many PuertomoreJiménez. innovativeThere’s also solar a drying room materialsare shipped across the recyclablebay composted,to andadepot is in waste organic all gas-powered a ofstant hum generator. well, As remoteparts ofCanada, you won’t hear the con onsolar power. So, unlike many fishing lodges in starters,For facilitythenearly iscompletely run comfortable as sustainable be yet to possible. as a clutch of guest cabins, the lodge certainlybar, strivescommunal dining room, open-air lounge and impact,” he says. little had something build that to wanted “We leaving as small an ecological footprintvide aas unique pos outdoor experience for guests,Donna,speak whilepassionately about wanting to pro coincidence.OwnerMichael Butler andhiswife, once on every day of our trip. toNovember rainy season, Norine and I still got Whiledrenched ourat Decemberleast visit technically followedThat’s thetheonethingabout endtheweather of here: theexpect getwet.April to outinoutfitted fishing kayaks. AndI did mention the rainforest? tions—guestscan opt for inshore attrac main or offshore the of guided certainly experience, one jungle is fishing trips, or head the lodge’s Web site. credits theirsions flights from buy through can mitigate carbon emis the tovisitors want who well, reforestation. As for rainforest land buys program that contributes a lodge to thewhile, vegetableoil. Tooffset itsuse offossil fuel, mean generatoraswitch onrunsthattooverto way powersystemsufficient,is plans underand are sel generator. For the most part, though, thethere solar are times when it has to relyest—getting on upto200ainches backupofrainyear—so a die ing Unlimited. Now 43, he first visited Costa areaRicafor aboutwith 20his years, parentscurrently under the banner of Sportfish clear of those,” says Olson. runners trying to evade the coast guard. “You drugwant byoverboardto thrownstaypackages wayfor name local the per,” other than the vast, deep, blue ocean. That and a “square grou B f ore te og de rsd i a rainfor a in reside does lodge course, the Of Consistingmainbuildingkitchen,a withaof Not that I’d let a little rain get in the way of the fishing. WhilePlayaNicuesa billseco-friendly,itselfan as multi-sport Originallyfrom Texas, Olson has been running charters inthe WINTER Canada Outdoor environment. And that’s no no that’s And environment. fits seamlessly into the lush green Nicuesa RainforestPlaya Lodge the tree, different of 18 of logs fallen thematerials and u birdssignalling schoola baitfish—anythingof of flock or a shade, as driftwood use will fish which of trash, piece a sailfish, jumping A standing behind the wheel of his 28-foot Mako. tain John Olson says in a slow southern drawl, look e’re i t oty from mostly lt i ng for ng 2010 anything but water,” Capwater,”anythingbut recycled recycled ­sible. ------T Michael he F T

author in he - - - - T O revall the chugger, creating a minor panic on board.header. Just as his bait hits the water, the sailfish sometimes screamsswim inoffpacks, with soit’s not uncommon to sailfishget knows that doublea He casts out. and goggle eye rigged a with the plastic bait. salfin come out of the water as the giant fish starts to batI’m around getting restless. Then, as if on cue, we see part of a sailfish dor the seat, everything.” to the Mako’s central console. “I builtchartering the cooler,and working builtonboats. the“Ibuilt top,this,” builthesays, pointing property his father had bought and never left,whenwas15.Sixyears hequicklylater, returned he getting checktosomeon into Golfito. It’s now about 9:30 stretch of ocean about 24 kilometres off the coast from the town of colours that billfish love.” lures, but you use them in pink, green everandseen, all Olson kinds says ofhehas weirdthe most luck with plastic. “They’re thatpickedwe earlierup theatonly on-the-water baitshop I’ve splash.” While we also have a bait boxing.“They’re withcalled livechuggers,” says,he“and they lotmakeof a cean B Venegas shoves his rod into a holder and grabs the rig that rig thegrabs andholder a intorod Venegashisshoves Olson’sfirst mate, Fulvio Venegas, grabs one of the other rods Olsonalsohand-poured thesquid-like plastic lures we’re troll We startedWetrolling byout namelesschuggers the a of top on utler O

fights lson B y; C lue

and

aptain at

: (F his

da

ro his m y m T arlin ’ B J s

ohn lue end op - ) ,

a an even more valuable souvenir making the photo of my sailfish came into effect after my visit, after catching them. That rule to take billfish out of the water for catch-and-release fishermen new regulations. their long lines. cial fishermen to use live bait on it’s also now illegal for commer cial harvest. Along with the ban, and, in turn, reduce the commer lead to less demand for the fish meat. Nelson says this should Rica banned the export of sailfish scored a major coup when Costa L based Billfish Foundation. son, chief scientist with the Miami- healthy, according to Russell Nel sailfish population is mostly lines. But as it turns out, the area’s legally target the fish using long and-release, Costa Ricans can sport anglers must practise catch- population—although visiting is having on the sailfish the impact the local commercial region, While SAILFISH RULES . ast January, the sportfishery m Sport anglers, too, must follow And things stand to improve. . ,and after two hours of no action in Costa Rica’s Golfo Dulce I ’d been concerned about I t’s now unlawful ojón , or goggle eye, - - . - - - -

Bob Sexton (Butler, Olson, plane); Norine Williamson (Sexton); Robert Biron (map) egas reaches down with a gloved hand close.and I get it to the side of the toboat burn, and but Ven I’m feeling good and the fish is it’s still a couple of hundred feet away.manages catchtofilm,on it even though The fish clears the water again and Norine tingthefish take line run. when it’s a on the line, reeling when I drop the tip andtoOlson’s let instructions, keeping tension on rod, meanwhile, is rated up to 200 pounds.whoOlson gets tomodify all his reels. The speciallyCaliforniainguy a beefed byup poundleader, andthe Penn reel hasbeen 200- a with80-pound-test line braided there’s not much chance off of break that. don’t I’m off, using break Don’t theonendtheofline. AllI’mthinking is, feelshuge. And thinkI canI sense its fury boat. It behind feet thewater about 300 diately the giant fish jumps clear out of the ting the hook too early. set avoid to have I know I and fish, the hooks since they make it easier to release circle using We’reanxiety. with tight is gut My belt. the on holder the into butt The line is still screaming out as waist.I slide my the around belt fighting a wraps rest the rod butt on my upper thigh as he was just hit, thrusting it into my hands. I Afteraboutminutes,15 armsmystart Still, I’m not taking any chances. I listen Ilock the reel in gear and almost imme “Get ready!” Olson shouts. “Now!” although , - - - - freshest sushi I’ve ever had). lodge kitchen the the makes into in chef fin trevally crevalleand a jack (which the makes up for the loss by nailing a beforenice he bluecan land it. A few hours later, he in the fighting chair, but the fish shakes off January to March billfish season. especiallysince I’m too early for the prime stoked— I’m and me personal for besta recordcaught in Ecuador in 1947, but it’s 221-pound world the nowhere near It’s 100pounds, averagean sizeforthe area. the fight—then drops it back in the water.foggy pictures—the camera got wet duringthe fish up on the side for a couple of quick,thrashing hook, hauls slips the beast. He This time, Venegas is able to hangoppositeboat. thethesternontotheofside to the shoutingworkbackitandIaroundinas random and panic minor more There’s boat. straight the beneath divingnearly thinking the worst. But no, it’s stillfumbles on.he fish theshakes and loose. I’m fish’s Then bill. the leader and thegrabs a down for the bucklewet beer, ride and a listen crack to We him home. towardtalk bow the points Olson that, With spit. to dark,the wind picks up and the rain starts . m ts around 4 It’s We get another sailfish hit around 11:30 weighed fish around figuresOlson the fish thetakes Now anotherfor off run, . and this time it’s Michael Butler’s turn p . m . hn h sy turns sky the when

E W

sc

INTER 2010

- a

pes measure. as “good living.” means“purelife,”better isbut translated it’s say, would beautiful,lush surroundings. As the locals look at the office,” he says, gesturing at thethe tropics. “Long hours andlow pay, but Olsonsumslifeupcharter aas captain in dock,rainstopsarrivethetheandweat beforeJustjob.hisdownsofand ups the about the laidback Costa Rican lifestyle and

With great fishing thrown in for good for fishing great With thrown in www.playanicuesa.com. Rainforest sportfishingu.com. Playa Nicuesa ited, 011-506-2-776-0036; www. costarica.com. Board, 1-866-267-8274; www.visit M average temperature is about 27°C ing season (January to March), the the year; during the prime fish can be hot and humid throughout be sure to bring decent raingear. anywhere else in the country, so Dulce region gets more rain than CL are included. proper rods, reels, tackle and bait mended outfitter to ensure the GE your outfitter. U.S.$25 and can be provided by PERMITS Golfito or Puerto Jiménez. L a guest at Playa Nicuesa Rainforest is popular with sport anglers. Crocodile near Puerto Jiménez numerous options to choose from. hostel or a luxury resort, there are you’re looking for a backpacker’s A of Golfo Dulce. the two main towns on either side either Puerto Jiménez or Golfito, a Cessna Caravan (pictured) to a 45-minute flight, typically in capital, San José. From there, it’s regularly land in the Costa Rican major cities across GETTING GOLFO DULCE PLANNER odge, a short boat trip from either CC O O A RE v W THING R O inter : MM

Book a trip with a recom INF :

O THERE Fishing licences cost O: L ua vida pura : 2010 D Costa Rica’s Golfo odge, 1-866-504-8116; Costa Rica Tourism A

TI Sportfishing Unlim Outdoor Canada Canada Outdoor O : Flights from N wih literally which , : Whether I - was 45 - I - - t . <<