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Food Byways: the Sugar Road by Masami Ishii

Food Byways: the Sugar Road by Masami Ishii

Vol. 27 No. 3 October 2013

Kikkoman’s quarterly intercultural forum for the exchange of ideas on food

SPOTLIGHT : JAPANESE STYLE: Ohagi and Botamochi 5 MORE ABOUT JAPANESE COOKING 6 Japan’s Evolving Train Stations 4 DELECTABLE JOURNEYS: Nagano 5 KIKKOMAN TODAY 8

The Japanese TABLE Food Byways: The Road by Masami Ishii

This third installment of our current Feature series traces Japan’s historical trade routes by which various foods were originally conveyed around the country. This time we look at how sugar came to make its way throughout Japan. Food Byways: The Sugar Road

From Medicine to Sweets to be imported annually, and it was eventually According to a record of goods brought to Japan from disseminated throughout the towns of Hakata China by the scholar-priest Ganjin (Ch. Jianzhen; and Kokura in what is known today as 688–763), founder of Toshodaiji Temple in Nara, Prefecture in northern Kyushu island. As sugar cane sugar is thought to have been brought here in made its way into various regions, different ways the eighth century. Sugar was considered exceedingly of using it evolved. Reflecting this history, in the precious at that time, and until the thirteenth 1980s the Nagasaki Kaido highway connecting the century it was used solely as an ingredient in the cities of Nagasaki and Kokura was dubbed “the practice of traditional Chinese medicine. Sugar Road.” In Japan, the primary sweeteners had been After Japan adopted its national seclusion laws made from glutinous and , in the early seventeenth century, cutting off trade and a sweet boiled-down syrup called amazura made and contact with much of the world, Nagasaki from a Japanese ivy root. But by the late fourteenth became the sole trading port through which sugar or early fifteenth century, sugar was being used as a and other goods were imported from overseas. By the food ingredient here: it is mentioned in a teikin orai eighteenth century, the quantity of sugar imported (a textbook on wisdom for daily life) dating from on Dutch ships was between 500-1,000 tons that time that describes sato yokan, a jellied sweet annually—and this rose to over twice that amount, made with red beans and sato (sugar). An illustrated if we include sugar imported on Chinese ships. As a scroll titled Shichiju ichiban shokunin uta-awase result of the increase in sugar imports, a special (“Seventy-one poetry matches on 142 artisans”), storehouse was built in Nagasaki from which sugar dating from the late fifteenth to early sixteenth was shipped to wholesale warehouses in Osaka and century, depicts sato manju, steamed buns filled then distributed around the country. with red beans and sugar. From these early examples, it seems that sugar had come to be used in making Along the Sugar Road jellied sweets and steamed buns, and thus its varied The culture of sugar in Japan continued to flourish in uses gradually spread throughout society. many ways. In Nagasaki, sugar was used to prepare dishes served in meals; however, sugar was better Sweets from the West matched to making diverse sweets that were rooted When missionaries from Portugal and began in Western influences. Following along the sugar coming to Japan in the late-sixteenth century, they road, we find kasutera in Nagasaki, a baked cookie introduced nanban-gashi sweets, including konpeito called maruboro in Saga, and a golden fios de ovos (Portuguese: confeito) and kasutera ( sponge confection from Fukuoka known in Japanese as ). When Nagasaki port opened to trade in keiran somen that is made of threads of egg yolk 1571, some 100 kilograms or more of sugar began cooked in sugar syrup. It is unsurprising that the founders of two of Japan’s leading makers of sweets were both born in this area. The culture of sugar did not linger in northern Japan Sea Kyushu alone, but spread along the distribution

Tokyo routes to Osaka and Edo (now ). The confection Osaka to Osaka known as taruto (Dutch: taart), for which the city

Amami of in on the island Oshima Kokura of is famous, is in fact is a kind of moist Fukuoka Kagawa Matsuyama sponge roll filled with . This style Saga Hakata Tokushima of cake originated when the lord of the Matsuyama domain, in charge of guarding the city of Nagasaki, Nagasaki Kyushu ordered his men to learn how to make Western- style sweets. Originally, the wrapped filling was jam, Pacific Ocean but bean paste was later substituted to reflect local tastes, as occurred in many cases following on the Japan’s “Sugar Road” introduction of Western sweets.

2 Clockwise from top left: maruboro, keiran somen, konpeito, taruto and kasutera

Domestic Production eighteenth century, domestically popular that ordinary people began to The production of sugar in Japan produced had widely sprinkle it on foods such as cooked itself was long in coming. In the early circulated in the market. Most rice or noodles. seventeenth century, it is said that notably, in Shikoku’s Sanuki and Awa Today, Japan imports some someone from Amami (today part of provinces (present-day Kagawa and 1.3 million tons of sugar annually. As Prefecture) brought back Tokushima prefectures, respectively), these imports have increased through the method of making kurozato (an refining techniques were advanced the years, sugar has slowly come unrefined, dark ) after enough around the 1800s to produce to influence and redefine Japanese being shipwrecked in China. The the fine, white sugar that cuisine through its use as a day-to-day manufacture of white sugar required is still prized today as an ingredient in seasoning in ordinary cooking, as well advanced refining technology, but the high quality Japanese . as its appearance in an infinite variety eighth Tokugawa shogun Yoshimune Meanwhile, great quantities of of sweets—not only in Western- (1684-1751) encouraged the cultivation sugar appear to have circulated in style pastries and , but in of sugar cane, and by the end of the Japan not only through the regular contemporary and traditional Japanese import markets, but also on confectionery. the black markets. Domestic production, which started in the early cover eighteenth century, helped Illustration of Dejima in Nagasaki port. During Japan’s national seclusion, the tiny island of Dejima was the increase availability and only area where the Dutch were allowed to live and this probably added impetus to trade. Tokan rankan-zu-emaki (1801). Courtesy to its general consumption. Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture In the late eighteenth Author’s profile century, sugar became so Masami Ishii was born in 1958. He graduated from Tokyo Gakugei University in 1980 from which he later received his Masters degree in education in 1984. Prof. Ishii specializes in Japanese literature and folklore, and he has been teaching at Tokyo Gakugei University since 1993. He has authored many books and publications such Manufacturing kurozato during the Edo era (1603-1867) in Amami, Wasanbon sugar as Tono Monogatari-e-no-Goshotai (An introduction an illustration from the book Nihon sankai -zue (1797). to tales of Tono) and Mukashi-banashi-to-Kanko— Courtesy National Diet Library digital archives Kataribe-no-Shozo (Folktales and travel—a portrait of a storyteller).

FOOD FORUM October 2013 3 Japan’s Evolving Train Stations Traditions and trends in Japanese food culture

Tokyo Station’s GRANSTA shopping arcade offers a variety of foods including lunchboxes and prepared dishes.

Major train stations in Japan have the station building. The rail station changed drastically in recent years. Pass itself was updated with enhanced safety through the wicket and find not just features and a renovated facade. your train, but busy shopping centers After five and a half years, the where you can buy almost anything renovation and preservation of including souvenirs, clothing, household Tokyo Station’s Marunouchi Station goods—and food. Grab a quick lunch Building, designated an Important before boarding, buy prepared dishes Cultural Property, was completed in for dinner before heading home, visit October 2012, faithfully reproducing a restaurant for a full-course meal or the historic building as it appeared Stations are a glass of wine: any convenience you after its construction in 1914. Here, might imagine is right at the station. besides countless convenience stores now a lifestyle The Japanese rail system became and souvenir shops, many station destination well established during the late businesses now feature on-site kitchens nineteenth century; today, rail- that produce freshly made foods. development efforts concentrate on Some of these include small outlets those areas immediately surrounding of well-known restaurants, including major urban stations, where some of Tokyo’s most famous information, activities and commerce noodle shops. These have become are increasingly concentrated. Until hugely popular, as have the shops recently, train stations were no more of several major confectionery than transportation hubs; today they companies where, thanks to their in- are multi-use lifestyle destinations that house kitchens, visitors can observe integrate commercial and office preparations and enjoy a condensed facilities, hotels, apartments, shops, factory-tour experience, then sample restaurants and other services. just-made goodies. The seasonal In 2012, Osaka Station underwent merchandise and exclusive goods sold significant redevelopment and has at these shops are a tremendous draw, become, in effect, a small city within an and so these days the train station enormous complex comprising a hotel, bustles not only with travelers, but Osaka Station clinic, cinemas and over 200 stores and with curious—and hungry—shoppers restaurants that all interconnect with and visitors of all ages.

4 Ohagi and Botamochi Perspectives on

Azuki red beans

During the days of the autumnal and the spring equinox, Japanese hold memorials and pay their respects to their ancestors, a Buddhist observance known as Ohigan. Ohagi and botamochi are traditional sweets served at these times; ohagi is served exclusively during the autumn, and botamochi in the spring. Both are similar sweets which are named in Ohagi and botamochi coatings include (from left) : tsubuan, koshian, sugared ground sesame and sugared roasted soy . reference to seasonal flowers—the hagi, or Japanese bush clover, which sugared roasted soy flour, and spirits; traditionally it was believed appears in fall, and the botan, or sugared ground sesame. that the red color of the azuki beans peony, which blooms in spring. Because Ohigan is based on purified and averted misfortune. In Ohagi and botamochi consist the lunar calendar, the dates shift the spring, botamochi are of steamed that has slightly each year. Each seven-day considered a form of prayer for been pounded until only half the observance comprises the three days fertility; in fall, ohagi represent grains remain, then hand-formed before and after the official holidays gratitude for the blessings of the into round balls before being coated of both Autumnal Equinox Day, harvest. These sweets have been in thick, sweet azuki . which falls on September 23 this prepared in households for centuries; Various types of azuki paste may year, and Vernal Equinox Day, which today they continue to be made be used, including chunky sweet falls on March 21 of next year. at home, but are also available at tsubuan, as well as strained koshian Offerings of ohagi and botamochi traditional Japanese confectionery paste; other coatings include kinako, were intended to console ancestral () stores.

Nagano Oyaki

In the past, ’s mountainous Nagano terrain and harsh winter climate limited the region’s rice production. Farmers instead chose to cultivate wheat and (), and for generations have used flour made from these grains as the basis for many local dishes. One of these is oyaki, a savory made from wheat and buckwheat dough, stuffed with various vegetables seasoned with or , or filled with sweet azuki red bean paste. They are then grilled or steamed, depending on local and personal tastes. The “yaki” of the name oyaki means “to grill,” since they were originaly simply grilled on an open hearth. Oyaki are usually made at home to enjoy as either a meal or a snack. Ingredients and preparations may differ widely, but whatever its form, the flavors of the humble oyaki are straightforward, best characterized by fresh local pickles, eggplant, mushroom, pumpkin and other local produce.

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The dough for oyaki is easily made by hand, with Oyaki Dumplings Stuffed no need for tools such as a rolling pin. This recipe uses a trio of complementary fermented foods for the seasoning—miso, with Eggplant soy sauce and balsamic vinegar—which, with the basil, give this Japanese snack a Western flair.

Makes 10 dumplings 155 kcal Protein 4.4 g Fat 3.3 g (per dumpling)

Oyaki dough Seasoned filling seconds at 600 watts until slightly • 150 g (5.3 oz.) cake flour* • 3-4 Japanese eggplants, stems thickened • 120 g (4.2 oz.) bread flour* removed, total 300 g (10 oz.)** • 1/4 medium-sized onion, roughly • 1/2 t baking powder • 2 T Kikkoman Soy Sauce chopped 55-60 g (2 oz.) • 1 t granulated sugar • 2 T shinshu (Nagano) miso • 1 T and more vegetable oil • 1/8 t • 1 1/2 T • 10 basil leaves, roughly chopped • 1 1/2 t vegetable oil • 1 t granulated sugar • 6-7 shelled walnuts, finely chopped, • 2/3 C (160 ml) water or more • 1 T balsamic vinegar, microwave 40 10 g (.35 oz.) Japanese eggplant

To make oyaki dough, in a bowl stir together the cake Divide both the dough and the 1flour, bread flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. 6filling into 10 portions. Flour palms, take one piece of dough Drizzle in the vegetable oil, then pour in water a little at a and form a ball. Stretch the dough 2time; knead until the mixture is the consistency of bread into a 10 cm / 4 in. circle, place one portion of the filling in dough: not too stiff and so that it just clings a bit to the bowl. the center, bring edges together, press to seal (see photos). Adjust by adding water as necessary. Lightly flour the surface of the dough and set aside for 30 minutes in a bowl covered Immediately place oyaki sealed side down in a non-stick with plastic wrap. 7frying pan over low heat and lightly brown both sides. Alternate between making dumplings and browning them For the filling, cut eggplants lengthwise and then into 5 mm until all dumplings are done. 3(1/4 in.) slices. Soak in water for about 15 minutes, then drain. Steam all grilled dumplings together for 10 minutes. Mix the soy sauce, miso, honey, sugar and simmered 8Serve hot. 4balsamic vinegar, then set aside. * As an alternative to cake and bread flour, a total of 270 g (about 2 1/4 C) Heat 1 T vegetable oil in a pan over medium heat and sifted all-purpose flour may be substituted. ** If using large eggplants, cut lengthwise into quarters then slice into 5 mm 5sauté the onions until transparent, then add drained egg- (1/4 in.) pieces. plants and stir until slightly wilted. Add basil leaves. Lower the heat slightly, add the seasoning mixture and stir to Note: For accurate measurements, please weigh all ingredients. avoid scorching until the liquid is almost evaporated. Turn off the heat, add walnuts and allow to cool. Recipe by Michiko Yamamoto

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Karukan Steamed Cake with Blueberries

Makes 16 slices 115 kcal Protein 1.8 g Fat 0.2 g (per piece)

• 1/3 C (70 g) dried blueberries • 1 1/2 C (200 g) kurozato, powdered dark • 5/6 C (200 ml) water brown sugar • 1 t Kikkoman Soy Sauce • 1/2 C (100 g) grated Japanese * • 1 1/2 C (200 g) Japanese non-glutinous • 1 T granulated sugar rice flour ( jyoshinko) • 2 egg whites • 1 t baking powder

Japanese yam

Square cake pan 18 cm x 18 cm (7 in. x 7 in.) or round pan Place a sheet of baking paper on the bottom of cake pan 20 cm (8 in.) diameter. 6and pour in the cake batter; steam in a steamer over high heat for 30 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted in the Soak dried blueberries in mixture of water and soy sauce center comes out clean. 1for 30 minutes. Drain and reserve separately the soaking water and blueberries. Let cool, remove the cake from the pan, peel off 7baking paper and cut into 16 pieces. Sift flour and baking powder together. 2Set aside. * If unavailable, may be substituted. If using Chinese yam, adjust amount of water as this variety has a higher moisture content.

In a food processor, blend grated Note: For accurate measurements, please weigh all ingredients. 3Japanese yam (see photo) and dark brown sugar. Add the reserved soaking 1 C (U.S. cup) = approx. 240 ml; 1 T=15 ml; 1t=5 ml water and mix. Pour into a bowl. Recipe by Kikkoman Corporation To this bowl, add in the mixture of rice flour and baking 4powder, stir and set aside. In a different bowl, add sugar to egg whites and whisk 5until stiff. Fold whipped egg and blueberries into the yam mixture and stir well.

FOOD FORUM October 2013 7 Renovations at Manns Wine Komoro Winery

Kikkoman has introduced new tastes SOLARIS name symbolizes the to the world through the traditional Manns Wine stance on quality; that Japanese seasoning of soy sauce, and is, to make wines using only the has delivered new flavor experiences highest-quality grapes. Manns Wines to Japan as well, including wines are highly acclaimed not only in produced by Manns Wine Co., Ltd., a Japan, but around the world, and member of the Kikkoman Group. One have won numerous awards in global of the Manns Wine’s wineries, the wine contests. Komoro Winery, is located At the Komoro Winery is a in the city of Komoro in 3,000-tsubo (about 10,000m2) Japanese Underground wine cellar eastern Nagano Prefecture, garden, Bansuien, created over the which has an ideal climate span of nearly a decade. The garden’s legs in comfort. As the tearoom is part for viniculture. name reflects the winery’s wish that of the winery, grape motifs were The Manns Wine everyone (ban) be captivated (sui) by integrated into its decor. premium SOLARIS series the beauty of this garden (en), and be Rather than imitate a traditional evolved from the desire to elated (sui) by the taste of its wines. European cellar, Komoro’s new produce a great wine Bansuien features some 170 plant underground cellar is modern and using 100% domestically species, including a century-old subtle with a Japanese design. Great grown grapes that would Zenkoji grapevine, which traces its care has gone into lighting placement compare with renowned origins to one of Japan’s most famous and illumination to provide greater wines from around the temples. Visitors can enjoy a variety of focus on the wines themselves; in its world. It is made mainly different views and experience the exclusive tasting room, chandeliers at the Komoro Winery. To SOLARIS seasonal wonders of a Japanese garden. designed as grape clusters project produce the best wine in wine Situated within Bansuien, the shapes of the fruit onto the walls. Japan, with its high rainfall, winery’s authentic Japanese tearoom Komoro Winery embodies the company concentrated not only on (chashitsu) and its underground wine Kikkoman’s hope to produce the grape variety, but also on where and cellar, both used to welcome special highest-quality wine and deliver a how the grapes were grown, harvest guests, were recently renovated. The taste experience transmitted through amount and wine-making techniques. winery updated the tearoom while a delicate blend of Western culture and The name SOLARIS refers to the still retaining much of its original Japanese tradition. With its premium Latin word for “sun” and, as seen in appearance and provided chairs and Japanese wines and beautiful Japanese the Manns Wine logo, grapes are tables to accommodate those guests garden, the winery is set to usher in regarded as gifts of the sun. The unaccustomed to sitting with folded the season of nouveau.

Interior and exterior views of the tearoom Bansuien Japanese garden

FOOD FORUM is a quarterly newsletter published by Kikkoman Corporation, International Operations Division, 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato- ku, Tokyo 105-8428, Japan/Production: Cosmo Public Relations Corporation/Editor: Marybeth Stock/Proofreader: Eda Sterner Kaneko/Special Advisors: Isao Kumakura, Michiko Yamamoto/Contributor: Masami Ishii /Art Director: Eiko Nishida/Photo Credits: Kenichi Shitami (p. 3 except bottom left, p. 5 middle, pp. 6-7) / Tetsudo Kaikan Co., Ltd. (p. 4 top right and top left) / amanaimages ( p. 4 bottom, p. 5 top) / Nagano Prefecture & Nagano Prefecture Tourism Association / Printing: Otowa Printing ©2013 by Kikkoman Corporation. All rights reserved. Requests to reprint articles or excerpts should be sent to the publisher. www.kikkoman.com

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