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D8B< K?< DFD<EK C8JK D8B<K?< DFD<EKC8JK NXekkf\jZXg\k_\ilj_f]df[\iec`]\6Cfj\pflij\c]fek_\>i\\b`jcXe[f]:i\k\#n_\i\ k`d\j\\djkfjkXe[jk`cc#jXpjIXpdfe[J\`kq%G_fkf^iXg_jYpI\Y\ZZX;lb\ TR30167_V2.indd 3 16/4/09 10:07:19 JLDD<IFE:I<K< WHERE TO STAY farmhouse. Three OAmirandes gorgeous guesthouses, The latest hotel from each with its own Grecotel, Greece’s pool, are set on an largest hotel chain, is organic farm shaded also the classiest. With by palms and lilac 212 rooms, suites and blossoms. Original bungalows around a arches, stone walls lagoon, this is a five- and porthole windows star resort with knobs are offset by fine on. It has an Ayurvedic antiques and hand- spa, six restaurants, crafted furniture. more than 60 private Kitchens are stocked pools and lots of daily with local treats family activities. and fruit from the farm Good for: – the strawberries are A real splurge famous all over Greece. 00 30 28970 41103; Good for: www.amirandes.com. A romantic retreat Doubles from €180 00 30 28210 41321; OAmmos Hotel www.metohi-kindelis.gr. A welcome splash of Guesthouse for two style among the drab from €180, breakfast resorts west of Chania, supplies and daily this seaside hotel has maid service included a whitewashed exterior OKalimera concealing bold colours Archanes Village and striking details To beat the tour buses within: Bisazza tiles, that descend on Marimekko fabrics and Knossos daily, check Paola Navone chairs. into this complex of Owner Nikos Tsepetis three stone villas a makes a point of 15-minute drive away. getting to know his Part of the Historic guests personally. Hotels of Europe Good for: network, it is well Young families placed in Archanes, 00 30 28210 33003; a village in the www.ammoshotel.com. heart of Crete’s wine Doubles from €95 region. The decor OMetohi Kindelis strikes the right This Venetian estate balance between just outside Chania contemporary comfort feels like a Tuscan and rustic charm. ¢ TR30170.indd 9 16/4/09 13:50:33 TR30171.indd 10 16/4/09 10:40:56 Opposite, clockwise from top left: fishing near ¢ Good for: lime with stamnagathi olive risotto, and goat OYiannarakis Sitia; olive groves on the Lasithi Plateau; Minoan History buffs (local greens) and roasted in a wood-fired Crete is famous for its site at Phaestos. Below, the Calypso restaurant 00 30 6977 460555; octopus with fava and oven. For dessert, try dairy products. This at the Elounda Peninsula All Suite Hotel www.archanes- beetroot. There’s also the kaltsounia – crispy ice-cream parlour village.com. Doubles a selection of Cretan cheese pies with mint has flavours such as from €135 cheeses and Greek and honey – and a shot praline with almonds, have inspired Dante to describe another OTriopetra Yoga wines from the award- of tsikoudia (local raki). melon and fig. circle of Hell. Parts of northern Crete are Retreat winning cellar. Across Vamos (00 30 28250 Leoforos Ikarou 103 simply self-destructing. There’s a dearth of the street is Raw 83220). Dinner about and G Georgiadou 38, Away from these crowded beachheads, decent accommodation Materials, where you €40 for two Iraklion however, the sweeping beauty of the island in southern Crete, but can pick up local OThalassino Ayeri Locals avoid the WHERE TO DRINK immediately reasserts itself. The region this simple yoga retreat gourmet produce. overlooking the sandy 16 Radamanthios touristy restaurants OSynagogi beyond Sitia, for instance, is covered in bay of Agios Pavlos is Street, Rethymnon lining the harbour of This lively bar in a vineyards that produce highly commendable a blissful spot in which (00 30 28310 26213). Chania and instead Venetian ruin is the wines, especially whites, and the mountains to soak up the sea Dinner about €80 head to this seafood best spot in Chania for above Neapoli suddenly open onto the views and reconnect for two without wine taverna. Watch the Daiquiris and people- enormous, fertile Lasithi Plateau, set in a mind and body. OCalypso moon rising above the watching. Off Kondylaki bowl of the Dikti range, where family farms Good for: If you’re fed up with old town as you dine Street, Chania Lithe singles Greek salad, treat on sea urchin salad OPagopoieion produce the succulent vegetables and rich 00 30 6944 711725; yourself to a fancy and grilled sea bass The hub of Iraklion yogurts that enliven Cretan cuisine. And, www.astanga.gr. Week- French dinner at this at tables inches from nightlife, this bar in a by the way, any modest roadside taverna long workshops for two waterfront restaurant. the water. Vivilaki 35, converted ice factory is a good bet to give you a simple, delicious from €1,700, full board It’s popular with Halepa, Chania (00 30 has tables spilling meal – you’d think the Cretans invented honeymooners, ship- 28210 56672). Dinner across the square. the aubergine, and maybe they did. WHERE TO EAT owners and Russian about €50 for two Papayiamali 1, Agios O Then there are scores of monasteries For a diet-busting billionaires. Executive The Old Phoenix Titou Square, Iraklion breakfast, indulge chef Jacques Le Accessible only by and churches, some easily accessible, others in a bougatsa (warm Divellec has a Michelin- boat or on foot, this WHERE TO SHOP at the end of remote mountain trails. mizythra cheese or starred restaurant idyllic seaside taverna OCarmella There are two grand, old monasteries on custard pie sprinkled in Paris. Elounda is a throwback to This pretty shop sells the plain of the Akrotiri Peninsula near with cinnamon and Peninsula All Suite Crete before mass handmade ceramics Chania, and a pair of tiny monasteries sugar) at Iordanis, Hotel, Elounda (00 30 tourism. Take the and jewellery. 7 Angelou clinging to the hillside above Neapoli. And which has a few outlets 28410 68000). Dinner boat from the quaint Street, Chania harbour of Sfakia to OFanourakis a few kilometres outside Agios Nikolaos in Chania, or Kir Kor about €160 for two on Eleftheriou Venizelou OI Sterna tou Loutro, then follow Established in 1860, is Crete’s greatest ecclesiastical treasure, Square in Iraklion. Bloumosifis the footpath over the this shop sells exquisite the 13th-century church of Panagia Kera, OAvli The epitome of the hill to Finikas Bay. copies of Minoan a squat, three-aisle structure with heavy This restaurant set in traditional taverna Tuck into Greek salad jewellery, plus modern buttresses holding up the side walls. a bougainvillaea-shaded in the beautifully with homemade feta, pieces. Nikiforou Foka Inside is a display of faded frescos as courtyard offers a preserved village of lamb chops (from Square, Iraklion good as anything you can see in Italy. sophisticated take on Vamos. Specialities the owner’s flock), or Also visit the markets Cretan food. Memorable include wild fennel freshly caught fish. If in Chania and Iraklion In the Archaeological Museum at dishes include red pie, stuffed courgette you can’t bear to leave, for olive oil, cheese, Iraklion you’ll see a glass case in which is mullet marinated in blossoms, squid-and- book a sea-view room honey and paximadia, a arranged a collection of small terracotta for €35 a night. For traditional Cretan bread. pieces. Like charms or talismans, they breakfast, there is represent different parts of the anatomy sfakiani pitta, a pancake FURTHER DETAILS – a hand, an arm, a leg – and they are oozing goat’s cheese ODiktynna Travel thousands of years old. The Minoans and thyme honey. This local travel agency Finikas Bay, beyond arranges tailor-made offered these to the gods in the hope of Loutro (00 30 28250 tours of Crete. 00 30 divine intervention to cure one ailment or 91257; www.old-phoenix. 28210 41458; www. another. Then return to Panagia Kaliviani. com). Dinner about diktynna-travel.gr In the tiny, ancient chapel behind the €25 for two main church there is a metal-grille door in OOdos Egeou GETTING TO CRETE EasyJet (www.easyjet. front of a small tomb, and from this grate Overlooking Iraklion’s harbour, this taverna com) flies direct to hang miniature foil replicas of different specialises in fish Iraklion from Gatwick parts of the anatomy – a hand, an arm, dishes such as seafood and Manchester. a leg – recently placed there by hopeful en papillote and lobster Aegean Airlines (www. supplicants. The most beautiful thing about spaghetti, plus Cretan aegeanair.com) flies Crete may be Time. staples such as dakos from Stansted via (a kind of barley bread Athens to Iraklion and WEATHER TO GO heaped with tomato, Chania. Olympic myzithra cheese and Airlines (www.olympic Best month to visit: June oregano). Egeou and airlines.com) flies ? Head for Crete in early summer when Spanaki Street, Gonias, from Heathrow and it is sunny, dry and warm (with average Iraklion (00 30 2810 Manchester via Athens daytime highs of about 26°C) but the 288266). Dinner about to Iraklion and Chania. peak-season crowds have yet to arrive. €65 for two RACHEL HOWARD 151 TR30171.indd 11 16/4/09 10:40:59.
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