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Gayete (Montaigne, Des Livres) Ie ne fay rien sans Gayete (Montaigne, Des livres) Ex Libris Jose Mindlin J4-^n3^c^, SPORTING SKETCHES IN SOUTH AMERICA. BY ADMIEAL KENNEDY. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: R. H. PORTER, 18 PRINCES STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE. 1892. HLAMMAM. PRINTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. DEDICATED TO M.ty Jfttgljt %>onomMe LORD LILFORD, WHO HAS MOST KINDLY ASSISTED ME IN REVISING THE PROOF SHEETS OF THIS LITTLE WORK. PKEFACE. THESE remarks on Sport on the S.E. coast of South America made their first appearance in ' Land and Water/ and are now reproduced, by permission of the Editor of that Journal, with some little alteration which time and circumstances have rendered necessary. I am hopeful that they may be of some service to my brother officers, and also to yachtsmen and sportsmen visiting South America. The illustrations are exact copies of some rough pen and ink sketches of my own, and will therefore I hope be excused for their many defects from an artistic point of view. W. R. K. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. SOUTH AMERICA FROM A SPORTSMAN'S POINT OF VIEW. PA(TE Sport to be obtained there.—Three-years' Bag.—Local and Spanish names.—Old Keeper's remark.—Fishing. — Weapons.— Cartridges.— Dogs.— The family of Tinamous. — Shooting-match. — Kindness of the Native Estancieros.—Different kinds of Sport:— the Battue, Snipe-shooting, Punt-shooting, Grouse- and Partridge-driving, Fox-hunting, Salmon-fishing, &c 3 CHAPTER II. SUMMARY OF SPORT IN SOUTH AMERICA. Shooting over Dogs.—The Small Partridge.—The Marti- neta.—The Crested Partridge.—Wild-Goose shooting. —Duck, Teal, and Wigeon.—Flight-shooting.—Snipe- shooting.—Guanaco-stalking.—Hunting the Guanaco. —Cavy-shooting. —Coursing the Cavy.— Ostrich- shooting.—Driving the Ostrich.—Stalking the Ostrich. —Coursing the Ostrich.—Hunting the Ostrich with Bolas.—Deer-shooting.— Stalking the " Gama."— Coursing the " Gama."—Stalking the " Ciervo."—The " Ghazu Vira."—Hare-shooting.—Coursing the Hare. —Rabbit-shooting.— Carpincho-shooting.— Shooting the Pavo del Monte.—Wild-Cattle stalking.—Wild- Pig shooting.—Alligator-shooting .. .. .. 13 viii CONTENTS. CHAPTER HI. WILD-FOWL SHOOTING. PAGE The wild Swan.—Sport at Negrete Estancia.—The Upland Goose.—The Rufous-headed Goose.—The Kelp Goose. —Varieties of Ducks on the Parana.—The Muscovy Duck.—Snipes and Snipe-shooting.—The Common Snipe.—The Painted Snipe.—The Falkland-Island 24 Snipe CHAPTER IV. GENERAL OUTLINE OF SPORT WITH THE RIFLE. Guanaco-hunting in Patagonia.—Habits of the Animals.— Best locality for finding them.—Ostriches.—Patago- nian Hares.—Foxes.—Skunks.—Armadillos.—Rab­ bits at the Falklands.—Wild Pigs.—Wild Cattle.— Different kinds of Deer in South America.—The Red Deer (Ciervo).—The Gama.—The Ghazu Vira.— The Ghazu Colorado.—The Venadillo.—Carpinchos. —Alligators.—The Ant-bear.—The Aguara .. .. 32 CHAPTER V. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. The Argentine Republic.—The Falkland Islands.—Best time to visit them.—French and Spanish names.— Driving Geese.—Heavy bag of do.—Steamer-Ducks.— Shags.—Penguins.—Seals.—Sheep.—Size of the Falk- A land Isles.—Rabbits a nuisance.—Wild Cattle.— Death of the old Bull 39 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER VI. THE FALKLANDS (continued), PAGE Advantages for yatchsmen.—Gocd harbours and sport easy of access.—Supplies procurable.—Climate healthy but tempestuous.—Bag of Hares on Lively Island.—Value of the West Falkland.—Albatrosses.—Pink-breasted Terns.—Grebes.—Johnny Crows.—Disgusting habits of the latter.—Fishing a fraud.—Port Egmont. —A stream of stones.—Probable theory.—Rabbit- shooting on Saunders and Keppel Islands.—Woodcock or Snipe ? 47 CHAPTER VII. PATAGONIA. Discovery of Gold.—Sheep-farmiDg at Possession Bay in the Straits of Magellan.—Harbours on the coast of Patagonia.—Egg Harbour the best for sport and safest anchorage.—A Guanaco-drive frustrated.—Cavy-hunt- ing.—Habits of the Cavy.—The Elegant Tinamou.— Arid aspect of the country.—Absence of human life. —Tovalsland.—Themysterious Horse.—Fire on board the 'Ruby.'—Port St. Elena.—Guanaco-stalking.— Description of the animal.—Habits of do.—Absence of fresh water.—Stalking Ostriches.—Patagonia as a pasture-land for Cattle and Sheep.—Evidence of the submergence of the whole Continent of South America .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 56 CHAPTER Vni. THE WELSH COLONY OF CHUPAT. Founding of the Colony.—Privations of the early Settlers. —Anchorage at Port Madryn.—Desolate country.—• Attitude of the Argentine Government.—Energy CONTENTS. PAGE of the Settlers.—Irrigation-works.—Heavy wheat crop.—Sheep, Cattle, and Horses.—Position of Emi­ grants in a foreign land.—The Chupat and Port Madryn Railway.—A reckless drive.—Duck-shooting about the Colony.—Skunks and Armadillos.—Adventure with a Skunk .. .. .. .. .. ..68 CHAPTER IX. CHUPAT (continued). Habits of the Skunk; its pluck.—The Patagonian Indians. —Habits and hospitality of the Welsh Settlers; their Language and Religion.—The Truck System.—Trade. —The Climate of Patagonia.—Varieties of Ostrich. —Hunting the Ostriches, Guanacos, and Cavies with Lurchers.—Expeditions into the Interior of the Country.—Kindness and hospitality of Mr. Luis Jones, the Founder of the Colony .. .. .. 77 CHAPTER X. PATAGONIA. Geological formation of Patagonia.—Evidence of subsi­ dence of the Sea.—Fossil remains of Fish.—Flints and pebbles.—Stone and flint arrow-heads.—Curious cone near the Chupat Railway.— Cracker Bay a good lo­ cality for Sport.—Habits of the Armadillo and of the Ostrich.—Shooting Wild Cattle at Cracker Bay.—The midshipmen's battue.—A successful stalk with an old Bull.—The Port of San Bias.—Dangers of the Bar.— Mr.Mulhall's Estaneia.—Sport there.—Gilpin's ride.— Advantages of San Bias harbour and its importance in time of war.—Bahia Blanca.—Habits of the Viscacha. —Antediluvian remains.—Lightning-rods .. ,. 84 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XL AN INVESTIGATION INTO THE CLAIM OF THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT TO THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. PAGE The History of the Falklands from the earliest time to the present date.—Claims of the different Explorers con­ sidered.—Discovery of Cape Horn by Drake, and of the Straits of Le Maire.—Davis the first discoverer of the Falklands.—French claim to have discovered the Islands.—Formal possession taken by an English Squadron in 1765.—Dispossession of the British by a Spanish force in 1770.—Voluntary abandonment by the British in 1774.—Appointment of a Governor by the Argentine Republic, 1829.—Action of the United States.—Possession retaken by H.M.S.' Clio/ 1833.—- Claim of the Argentine Government not substantiated. 98 CHAPTER XII. STATEN ISLAND ; TIERRA DEL FUEGO ; AND VISIT TO THE MISSION STATION AT USHUWAIA. Visit of H.M.S. 'Ruby ' to Ushuwaia, the head-quarters of the South-American Mission in Tierra del Fuego.— The Harbour of St. John's, Staten Island.—Description of the Island.—Visit to Captain Allen Gardiner's Grave at Spaniard Harbour, Tierra del Fuego.—Mr. Bridges's place at Down-East.—Description of the Natives, the " Yahgan" or Canoe Indians.—The " Ona " tribe.—Soil and Climate of Fuego.—Visit of Bishop Stirling to the Mission.—Atrocious outrage by the Captain of a Schooner.—Banner Cove, Picton Island, more suitable for the Mission Station.—Leave Ushuwaia for Down-East.—Beauty of the Country and its adaptability for Settlements.—Review of the pros­ pects of the South-American Mission .. .. .. 107 Xli CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. RIO PARANA. PAGE Vessels of H.M. Squadron on the S.E. coast of America.— Position of British Subjects in Paraguay.—Style of Vessel needed for the Rivers.—Pampero at Buenos Ayres.—Shooting at Diamante.—City of Parana.— Hernandaria.—Antediluvian remains.—"Jigging " fish. 128 CHAPTER XIV. Rio PARANA (continued). Birds of the Chaco.—La Paz.—Esquina.—Goya.—A dirty night.—Agrouud on a sandbank.—Bella Vista.—Cor- rientes.—The river Paraguay.—Humaita.—The river Bermejo.—The Gran Chaco.—Bravery of the Para­ guayans.—Villa Pilar.—Paraguayan Tea.—Alligator- shooting. — Formosa. — The Guarani Language. — Arrive at Asuncion .. .. .. .. .. 139 CHAPTER XV. ASUNCION, PARAGUAY. The Capital of Paraguay.—Lopez's Palace.—Fertility of the soil in Paraguay.—Advanced Civilization.—The Market-place in Asuncion.—Expedition to the Para­ guayan Chaco.—The river Pilcomayo.—Shooting in the Chaco.—Climate of ditto.—Wild Indians.— Description of Deer.—Mosquitos.—Return to Asun­ cion.—Loading Oranges at Villeta .. .. .. 147 CONTENTS. XU1 CHAPTER XVI. Rio PARANA AND THE CHACO. PAGE Steaming down the Rio Parana.—Cross over to the Chaco.—Peculiar customs of the Toba Indians.—The wild Indians of the Chaco.—Snakes and Mosquitos. —Shooting in the Chaco.—Varieties of trees.— Orchids and Ferns.—The Pavo del Monte or Bush- Turkey.—Recross the Parana.—Visit Santa Fe\— Cross Entre-Rios by the Railway.—Value of land in Entre-Rios.—The Palace of Urquiza the Dictator.— Atrocities committed by him.—Cross the Uruguay River.—Visit to Mr. Peel's estancia Bella Vista.— Return to Buenos Ayres .. .. .. .. 157 CHAPTER XVII. THE BANDA ORIENTAL. Visit Don Juan Jackson's estancia at Timote.—Hospitable reception.—Deer and Partridge shooting.—Carpincho- shooting.—Return to the ship.—Heavy bag.—Second expedition to the Cerro Colorado.-—Benefit of such expeditions to Naval Officers.—Best education for youngsters.—Attractions of Camp-life.—Fishing in the San Juan River.—The Estancias San Juan, San Pedro^ and Estansuela.—Travelling by diligence.—Endurance of South-American Horses.—Cost of Horses.— Drought: effects on Cattle, Sheep, and Deer.—Plague of Locusts .. .. .. .. .. .. 169 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. BUENOS AYRES.—SPORT AT LAS LOMAS AND NEGRETE. PAGE Expedition to Buenos Ayres.—The public gardens.—Con­ dition of the streets.—The Tram system.—Horse- racing.—Pigeon-shooting.—Visit to the estancia " Las Lomas."—Good Partridge and Duck shooting.—Polo in South America.—A visit to Capt. Kemmis's estancia "Las Rosas."—Return to Buenos Ayres.—Negrete estancia.—Good Duck and Swan shooting.—Heavy bag of the latter .. .. .. .. .. .. 180 CHAPTER XIX. SECOND AND THIRD VISIT UP THE PARANA—SAN PEDRO, SAN NICOLAS, ROSARIO, &C. Expedition up the Parana in one of the Platense steamers.
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