INDIA PERSPECTIVES MARCH 2003 2 Beyond Khardungla the VALLEY of NUBRA
INDIA PERSPECTIVES MARCH 2003 2 Beyond Khardungla THE VALLEY OF NUBRA Text & Photographs: ANIL MEHROTRA e left the town of Leh (11000 ft) dominated by Wthe massive, nine-storey Palace of Sengge Namgyal – the king of Leh, at about 10 am on a cool May morning. The Palace is an exquisite piece of Tibetan architecture, believed to have been the inspiration behind the construction of the Dalai Lama’s famous Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. The road and the surrounding terrain dictates the abject need for moving in an absolutely reliable, sturdy and powerful vehicle. Meandering along the single-lane, rough road, blacktopped in stretches, we headed towards Khardungla, which, at 18,300 ft, qualifies as the highest motorable road in the world. Enroute, the air with just sufficient oxygen was crisp and fresh. With clinical precision it cut through layers of woollens and jackets we had optimistically covered ourselves with. Every now and then, cute little brownish marmots, resembling well fed, overgrown distant cousins of cats, would emerge, bounce around on the rocks and teasingly run along the car at a very safe distance. Our attempts to stop for a photo opportunity with them proved futile, as no sooner did the car stop, they, too, ducked The Nubra Valley. INDIA PERSPECTIVES MARCH 2003 3 and vanished in the rocky looked around in awe. In the bleak mountainside. snowscape, hundreds of multicolored prayer flags did The sky above Leh and around is a precisely what they were meant perpetual inky blue, thanks to the for – praying silently through their absence of the omnipresent flutter, appeasing the mountain god pollution of the plains.
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