Eastern Grit Chris Craggs

Text, topos and crag photography by Chris Craggs and Alan James. Action photography by Chris Craggs or as credited. Edited by Alan James. Printed in Europe on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. (ISO 14001 and EMAS certified printers). Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk).

All maps by ROCKFAX Some maps based on original source data from openstreetmap.org.

Published by ROCKFAX in April 2015 © ROCKFAX 2015 www.rockfax.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.

This book is printed on FSC certified paper made from 100% virgin fibre sourced from sustainable forestry

ISBN 978 1 873341 08 7

Cover: Lucinda Whittaker on The End of the Affair (E8 6c) - page 414 - at Curbar. Photo: Adam Long This page: Hazel Findlay finishing off Usurper (E4 6a) - page 433 - also at Curbar. Photo: Adam Long Contents Eastern Grit 3

Introduction ...... 4 The Book, Other Guides ...... 6 Rockfax ...... 7 Symbol and Topo Key ...... 9 Acknowledgments and Advertisers . . . 10

Logistics ...... 12 Area Tourist Information, When to Go . . . . 14 Getting Around and Area Map . . . . . 16 Accommodation, Pubs, Shops and Cafes 18 Climbing Walls ...... 20 Climbing Information ...... 22 General Behaviour and Access . . . . 24 Environmental Considerations . . . . . 26 Gear ...... 28 Ladybower Area Ladybower Grades ...... 30 Highballs or Routes? ...... 32 Ticklists ...... 34 Graded List ...... 38 Destination Planner ...... 42

Sheffield Area ...... 44 Stanage Wharncliffe ...... 46 Agden Rocher ...... 70 Rivelin ...... 78 Ladybower Area ...... 98 Dovestone Tor ...... 100 Bamford ...... 112 Stanage ...... 132 Stanage North ...... 134 Stanage Plantation ...... 178 Burbage Valley Stanage Popular ...... 218 Burbage Valley ...... 272 Burbage North ...... 274 Higgar Tor ...... 296 Carl Wark ...... 306 Burbage South ...... 310 Millstone Area ...... 328 Over Owler Tor ...... 330 Millstone Area Millstone ...... 332 Lawrencefield ...... 356 Yarncliffe Quarry ...... 368 Derwent Edges ...... 264 Froggatt ...... 376 Curbar ...... 404 Baslow ...... 440 Chatsworth Area ...... 454 Gardom's ...... 456 Derwent Edges Birchen ...... 476 Chatsworth ...... 494 Southern Crags ...... 504 Robin Hood's Stride ...... 506 Cratcliffe ...... 510 ...... 520 Turningstone Edge ...... 536

Duke's Quarry ...... 542 Chatsworth Area Shining Cliff ...... 543

Route Index ...... 546 General Index and Map ...... 560

Ryan Edwards on the short and anything but Southern Crags sweet Jeepers Creepers (HVS 5b) - page 167 - at High Neb on Stanage North. Photo: Chris Fox 4 Eastern Grit Introduction Introduction Eastern Grit 5

The was the UK's first National Park and it remains one of the most visited in the My involvement with guidebooks goes back

Sheffield Area world, with 16 million people living within an hour's drive and around 25 million visitors a year well over 20 years, meaning I have had the squeezing into its 555 square miles. The central limestone core is ringed by a ragged edge of long-term pleasure of combining my two gritstone that generally faces towards the centre of the park. The eastern side of this ring of obsessions - climbing and writing. These rock is formed by a 30 mile broken banner that runs from Wharncliffe, north of Sheffield, all the fantastic cliffs now have another guidebook Area Sheffield way down to Shining Cliff, south of Matlock. The nucleus of this consists of the classic edges, which I hope will give you as much pleasure including the ever popular cliffs of Bamford, Stanage, Froggatt and Curbar. There are many and inspiration using it as it has given me

Ladybower Area lesser edges, plus a rather fine set of quarries, which are virtually all in west-facing hill-top while writing it. situations. Escape from the city is easy and great sunsets are a given - there is little wonder that Sheffield has become the home of choice for so many climbers. Chris Craggs, March 2015 Ladybower Area Ladybower I first climbed on Stanage in 1968, waking early from a cold night's camping at North Lees and wandering up to gaze at the shadowy line of dark rock running off in both directions. I can still recall the joy of those first explorations almost 50 years on. We spent the first day doing

Stanage classics such as Martello Buttress and Inverted V, dodging squally showers along the way. That was followed by a day whacking pegs into Millstone's hairline cracks and slipping off the

start of Great Slab. I was smitten and moved to Sheffield in 1970 to start a long-term love affair Stanage with gritstone that continues to this day. Burbage Valley Burbage Valley Millstone AreaMillstone Millstone Area Derwent Edges Derwent Derwent Edges Chatsworth AreaChatsworth Chatsworth Area Even back then, these cliffs and their short, intense climbs had a bigger place in the mythology of UK climbing than their size might suggest. Easy access and perfect rock has Southern CragsSouthern created a playground for bold and talented climbers and a place for the rest of us to learn our trade and test our abilities. As time has passed ever more people have been introduced to the world of gritstone climbing and all its wonderful weirdness, at some of the most popular Chris Craggs, older and wiser - well maybe. To the left on Right climbing venues on the planet. If the older pioneers could see the number of people who now Unconquerable (HVS 5a) - page 214 - in 1974, and to the right on Twin Southern Crags regularly climb on the gritstone edges, they would doubtless be surprised. Chimneys Buttress (VS 4c) - page 238 - in 2014, both at Stanage. 6 Eastern Grit Introduction Introduction Eastern Grit 7

The Book Rockfax Guides

Sheffield Area The arrival of Peak Gritstone East back in 2001 changed climbing guidebooks forever. There are three Rockfax books that complement the coverage in Marking lines on full-colour photographs of the cliffs on proved to be an approach this one. With all four books you will have all the best climbing over breathtaking in both its simplicity and effectiveness. Bernard Newman described opening the whole Peak area (gritstone, limestone and bouldering) plus you the book as "like looking out of the window at the cliffs". In 2006 we produced Eastern Grit get Lancashire and Merseyside thrown in! Area Sheffield which had a hundred extra pages and 900 more climbs. Amazingly we have managed a similar expansion so this time the book weighs in at a massive 560 pages, almost twice the Peak Bouldering (2014)

Ladybower Area thickness of the original 2001 book, and includes over 4000 routes. The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge Peak Gritstone East was photographed with a 3 megapixel camera, which limited the size area, including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. and quality of the topos that we could produce. This time round the photography was done Some have said that if you wrapped a bit of padding around it,

using 24 megapixel cameras allowing for much larger and clearer photo-topos. Every cliff you would have an extra bouldering mat! It includes many more Area Ladybower has been re-photographed in stunning detail and all the photo-topos (okay, except for two low-grade problems than have ever been documented before, owing to tree growth) are new. The extra space has also allowed for a more lavish layout and including 17 circuits with problems at f4+ and under, and a further the cliffs have never looked so good. 21 circuits with problems at f5+ and below. The book uses 'V'

Stanage grades and Font grades, plus UK technical grades for easier problems. There is some overlap with this Eastern Grit book for the bouldering Stanage which is on, or very close to, the main edges. In these cases the problems are covered in both books. In other places references have been included this book pointing to bouldering areas given full Burbage Valley coverage in the Peak Bouldering book.

Peak Limestone (2012) Burbage Valley The first single-volume guidebook to Peak Limestone to have hit the shelves since 1992. The book includes detailed coverage of the classic venues of Stoney, Cheedale and Water-cum-Jolly and the

Millstone AreaMillstone southern crags around Matlock, and the Manifold, plus the ever popular sport climbs in the many bolted quarries.

Western Grit (2009) Millstone Area 2001 2006 2015 The most recent edition of the original award-winning 2003 Western Grit guidebook. It ranges from the popular Staffordshire gritstone

Derwent Edges Derwent Other Guides edges of , Hen Cloud and Ramshaw up onto the There are some other guides by different publishers which complement the Rockfax series of remote Kinder and moorland crags. Also included are the books. Most are produced by the British Mountaineering Council and contain in-depth listings superb Chew Valley edges, the best of the Lancashire crags and

of routes for all the crags covered. the fine sandstone buttress of Helsby, Pex Hill and Frodsham in Derwent Edges Merseyside. Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC 2010)

Chatsworth AreaChatsworth Froggatt, Curbar, Birchen, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks and lots of minor stuff around Matlock. For more information on all Rockfax publications visit www.rockfax.com Stanage (BMC 2007) A single book for Stanage with all the routes and bouldering. Guidebook Footnote Chatsworth Area Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (BMC 2005) The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the Burbage Valley, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Rivelin, Derwent, Bamford, Wharncliffe. Includes right to climb upon it. The descriptions of problems within this guide are recorded for historical reasons

Southern CragsSouthern only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are bouldering. a fair assessment of the difficulty of the problems. Climbers who attempt a problem of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is Peak District Bouldering (Vertebrate Graphics 2011) not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book Bouldering throughout the Peak area including Western Edges and the Limestone. do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property Southern Crags arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 8 Eastern Grit Introduction Introduction Eastern Grit 9

This book brings together the best climbing on Eastern Grit. Our aim is that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the Topo Key Route Symbols Sheffield Area start of your chosen route. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from Height Descent Belay A good route which is well worth the effort. left-to-right. There are many features to help choose suitable crags depending on specific weather indicator 1 conditions or your ability level. You can select a crag from the crag tables on page 42. Each topo 16m A very good route, one of the best on the crag. Area Sheffield also has crag symbols so you can check its suitability at a glance - see key to the right. 2 3 A brilliant route, one of the best on Eastern Grit. The Rockfax App Ladybower Area A significant route which is one of the most iconic of There is an 'app' version of this guidebook (available in 2015) which contains all 4 its type in the book. the crags and routes. You can purchase each crag individually, or the whole book. Technical climbing requiring good balance and The main data on the app is downloaded and stored on your device so you don't t technique, or complex and tricky moves. need any signal to be able to read the descriptions and see the topos and maps. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs or Area Ladybower p long moves off small holds. 0 Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or steep s rock giving pumpy climbing.

Stanage Fingery climbing with significant small holds on the f hard sections. 6 Boulder Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary Stanage 7 problem q h run-outs. 8 9 A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one or r more of the moves. Route

Burbage Valley Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward thrutchy featured more Alternative for prominently on k moves. same route a different topo l Some loose rock may be encountered. Burbage Valley Map Key g Typical rounded gritstone holds and sloping breaks. Trees Scale A dynamic move ('dyno') may be required.

Millstone AreaMillstone o A crag 20 mins page w A sit-down start for a boulder problem. GPS Coordinates of parking Crag Symbols Millstone Area B Roads Angle of the approach walk to the crag with Additional Town/village parking S approximate time.

Derwent Edges Derwent Approximate time that the crag is in the direct sun (when it is shining). QR code for E Train smartphone station The crag is exposed to bad weather and will catch the navigation wind if it is blowing. Derwent Edges scan for map for scan $ UKC Logbooks Track The crag can offer shelter from cold winds and it may An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com logbooks A Roads * be a good suntrap in colder weather. system. To date this database lists more than 312,000 routes, over 19,100 crags and, so far, more Campsite

Chatsworth AreaChatsworth The crag suffers from seepage. It may well be wet and than 25,800 users have recorded over 3.8 million ascents! To set up your own logbook all you unclimbable in winter and early spring. need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the logbook tab. Once set up you will be @ A buttress on another page Scale able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in, who you did it page The rock can be green and dirty after prolonged rain. with and each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star & A buttress Chatsworth Area system linked to a database on the Rockfax site used by the guidebook writers. The logbook can Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. Fewer good routes or remote and smaller areas.

The Rockfax App can be linked to your UKClimbing.com user account and logbook so that you Footpath Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, Southern CragsSouthern can record your activity as you progress and look at photos, comments and votes on the routes, or good buttresses with awkward approaches. although this does require a 3G/4G data connection. You can also look at the UKC logbooks to see Boulder Busy - Places you will seldom be alone, especially at Minor unclimbed Wall if anyone has climbed your chosen route recently to check on conditions, and see any comments boulders weekends. Good routes and easy access. they made about it. Crowded - The most popular sections of the most Southern Crags Buildings popular crags which are always busy.

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 11 Eastern Grit Eastern Acknowledgments and Advertisers and Acknowledgments Merlin Andrew taking flight off The Link (E1 5b) - page Photo: Jonathon Percival. 233 - on Stanage Popular. Outside back cover Outside back - Page 27 Page Back flap Back blackdiamondequipment.com 33 Designs - Page Beta Climbing Rope Sterling climbOn, Snap, Tenaya, betaclimbingdesigns.com 19 - Page Hope Beyond AustriAlpin Evolv, Metolius, Prana, beyondhope.co.uk 29 DMM - Page dmmclimbing.com 31 Rab - Page equipuk.com cover - Inside front Mammut mammut.ch 15 - Page Marmot www.marmot.com Country - Wild wildcountry.com Page 21 - Page Expedition Hot Rock expeditionhotrock.com Page 2 - Page Walls Awesome Liverpool, Stoke-on-Trent, Stockport, Dublin Sheffield, awesomewalls.co.uk Shops On - Rock Birmingham London, Guildford, rockonclimbing.co.uk Cover Outside - Inside Back outside.co.uk Guiding Climbing Walls Walls Climbing Equipment ManufacturersEquipment Diamond Black We are grateful to the following for for following the to grateful are We their support guidebook. of this Acknowledgments and Advertisers and Acknowledgments Eastern Grit Eastern

Alan James, March 2015 March Alan James, Once again Chris Craggs has come through with the goods, with the goods, Chris has come through Craggs Once again verygrateful I am collaboration. on since our first years 14 work this making their excellent both Chris and Sherrito for edition of Eastern Gritthird the biggest and best ever. I would like to make a special mention for our two excellent our two excellent a special mention for make to like I would done have Ting and Rebecca Espley Jaimella readers. proof work with. people to be great to an amazing job and continue Thanks also to Mark Rankine, Pete Whittaker, Paul Phillips Paul Whittaker, Pete Mark Rankine, Thanks also to Greenwood. 500) and Rob Top Grit on the Eastern (497 ticks For this book we have once again worked with a number of with a number worked once again have this book we For Adam and Hutton Mike Thanks go to superb photographers. also We are fine contributions. their many for Long especially Van Guy Parkes, Graham Bond, Chris Fox, David to grateful Franco Percival, Arkle, Jonathon Dan Moss, Jamie Greuning, Watson Michael Hughes, Owen Muskett, Calum Cookson, their photographs. for Greenwood and Rob We owe a huge debt of thanks to all those who have all those who have a huge debt of thanks to owe We on the Eastern of climbing the documentation to contributed work on older this be through Whether the years. Edges over your on UKClimbing, moderators or diligent crag guidebooks, appreciated. very much are efforts Chris Craggs, March 2015 March Chris Craggs, As ever Sherri Davy has been my rock; helping and rock; has been my Sherri Davy As ever the from supporting of the production, stage me at every all the stuff checking about in the fog tramping days early you touches - a huge thank the finishing adding through way is in order. The combined skills of the Rockfax/UKC team have made have team the Rockfax/UKC The combined skills of bought has James Alan - breeze a book the of production the bear with stunning results. to skills and eagle eye his layout Horne (FB) Also Stephen up with some superb has come tasks onerous of the more many automated scripts that have with writing guidebooks. associated The largest ever Rockfax crown was briefly held by the by briefly held was crown Rockfax ever The largest over been handed this has Boulderingbook, but Peak recent the past on this for Working tome. massive this new to now visiting old favourite pleasure; has been a real two years a bit radar the off that had fallen as a few as well venues of the many accompanied by been I have the years. over Steve particular in Parkes, usual suspects, and Dan Graham Martin Clay, Dave Binks, Colin Gregory, Dave Cunnington, when mutterings a few were There and Brian Rossiter. Veale Edge and Shining Turningstone like venues suggesting I kept circuit of the usual Froggatt/Stanage/Bamford instead Cliff on some out-of- days had some great we in the event, but, crags. the-way 10 10 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 13

Heading homeward after a mid-winter's day on Curbar; tingling fingers and happy hearts as the hard frost starts to bite again. Logistics Eastern Grit Eastern 12 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags 1 6 5 Dec 3 8 8 Nov 6 7 12 Oct 8 7 15 Sep 6 11 19 Aug 6 11 20 Jul 9 5 17 Jun 6 6 14 May Tourist Information, When to Go to When Information, Tourist 3 6 10 Apr 9 3 8 Mar Mountain RescueMountain 6 1 10 Feb 6 9 1 Jan Grit Logistics Eastern - Rykneld Square, Chesterfield. Tel: 01246 345777 01246 Tel: Chesterfield. Square, - Rykneld In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: of Mountain the assistance requiring of an accident event In the Dial 112 and ask for 'POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' 'POLICE - MOUNTAIN ask for and Dial 112 - Old Market Hall, Bridge Street. Tel: 01629 813227 01629 Tel: Hall, Bridge- Old Market Street. - The Winter Gardens. Tel: 0114 273 4672 0114 Tel: Gardens. Winter The - - The Pavilion Gardens. Tel: 01298 25106 01298 Tel: Gardens. Pavilion The - 'Mountain Rescue' will immediately redirect you to people who know the area well. the area know people who to you redirect will immediately Rescue' 'Mountain could be a long way from your current location. This can cause delays in the rescue in the rescue delays This can cause location. current your from long way could be a - 1 Market Place, Leek. Tel: 01538 483741 01538 Tel: Leek. Place, - 1 Market procedure as the authorities try and track down where the injured party is. Asking for Asking for party the injured where as the authorities down try is. procedure and track Temperature ˚C Temperature

This is very important since just asking for 'Police' will redirect you to a switchboard which a switchboard to you will redirect This is very 'Police' importantasking for since just

Average Min Temp (˚C) Temp Min Average Average Max Temp (˚C) Temp Max Average Average Rain Days/Month Rain Average east of the main hills so benefit from a rain-shadow effect. effect. rain-shadow a from east of the main hills so benefit and Agden are worth considering - not only are they both quick to dry but they also lie to the also lie to dry they to but both quick worth they are are consideringAgden - not only and On cold winter days Rivelin is a good bet. During wetter weather crags such as Wharncliffe Wharncliffe such as crags weather During wetter is a good bet. Rivelin days On cold winter into the winter, making for superb conditions on Froggatt and Curbar. and Curbar. superb conditions on Froggatt making for the winter, into Derwent Valley is quite a common experience with the long cold nights of late autumn and autumn of late with the long cold nights a common experience is quite Valley Derwent good conditions can often be found on the more exposed edges. A cloud inversion filling the filling A cloud inversion edges. exposed more on the be found good conditions can often midges can be a problem. In the autumn the rain causes the greening of the lower cliffs but but cliffs of the lower the greening causes In the autumn the rain midges can be a problem. consider heading up to the higher edges where there is often a cooling breeze, although although a cooling breeze, is often there the higher edges where consider heading up to the summer arrives, shade can usually be found by making an early start. Alternatively Alternatively start. making an early by be found shade can usually the summer arrives, can offer perfect conditions when the crags and ground dry out and it isn't too hot. Once dry hot. out and it isn't too and ground conditions when the crags perfect can offer miserable of days. Crisp winter conditions are ideal for the harder routes, whereas spring whereas routes, the harder for ideal are conditions Crisp winter of days. miserable is nearly always a vehicle or two parked at the Popular End of Stanage even on the most even End of Stanage or two the Popular a vehicle at parked always is nearly Eastern Grit can offer something for the diligent explorer on most days of the year; there there of the year; days on most the diligent explorer for something Eastern Grit can offer More information and other travel tips are available at www.visitpeakdistrict.com available tips are and other travel information More Go to When include on these pages. include on these pages. Sheffield . They will be able to provide much more information than is possible to to is possible than information more much provide to will be able They . Offices Information Chesterfield Buxton Leek Tourist a look at the Tourist take in local history, just interested or are on walks information Bakewell emergency scramble up to higher ground to try access a decent signal. to to higher ground up to scramble emergency Offices Information Tourist some accommodation, want need short day, do on a wet are of what to If you of ideas some of the deeper quarries where coverage can be intermittent or not available at all. In an at all. or not available can be intermittent coverage quarriessome of the deeper where the major networks. Possible exceptions are the remote moorland crags to the north the moorland to crags and the remote are exceptions Possible the major networks. Most of the crags described in this book have reasonable mobile phone coverage across across mobile phone coverage reasonable describedMost of the crags have in this book Mobile Phones 14 14 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 17 17 M1 p.542 35A p.536 Chesterfield Ambergate A621 Dronfield Chapel Town Duke's Quarry Duke's Whatstandwell Sheffield Turningstone Edge Turningstone p.476 p.274 p.310 p.456 Birchen Matlock Gardom's Matlock Bath Matlock Cromford p.404 Burbage North p.78 Rivelin Wirksworth Wharncliffe p.46 Curbar Burbage South Burbage p.306 p.376 A6 p.494 Shining CliffShining p.543 p.296 High Bradfield High Froggatt Carl Wark Chatsworth A616 A621 Stocksbridge Higgar Tor Higgar p.510 p.130 Cratcliffe Winster Stanage Eastern Grit Logistics Eastern Black Rocks Black p.520 Baslow A619 Longcliffe Calver Bakewell Over Owler Tor p.330 Yarncliffe p.368 Grindleford Baslow p.440 Agden Rocher Agden p.70 Hathersage Millstone p.332 p.356 Lawrencefield Bamford Stoney Middleton Bamford p.112 Getting Around A6 Hope A57 A515 Monyash Castleton Tideswell Robin Hood's Stride Hood's Robin p.506 A515 Dovestone Tor Dovestone p.100 Hartington Hulme End

About 10km About Peak District Longnor National Park A6 A523 Dove Holes Chapel-en-le-Frith Buxton for buses in and buses for travelsouthyorkshire.com No. 6.1 to Wirksworth and Wirksworth to 6.1 - No. Rocks Black Matlock. From Matlock From Bakewell. to 172 - No. Cratcliffe Derby From From Chesterfield From Bakewell. to 170 - No. Chatsworth Birchen, Bus coverage for the Peak District is the Peak for Bus coverage bus finding for best website The reasonable. Also very useful . is traveline.info information is Sheffield. around Sheffield From Stocksbridge. 57 to - No. Wharncliffe Stanage North and Tor, Dovestone Rivelin, via Crosspool, 244/273/274 - No. Bamford and Bamford. Dams Rivelin Lodge 51 to - No. Stanage Plantation bus it's a frequent but Moor (a 1 hour walk, service). and Millstone Valley, Burbage via Castleton 272 to - No. Lawrencefield Fox via Buxton 65 to and No. House Fox House and Grindleford. - No. Froggatt Yarncliffe, Valley, Burbage Bakewell. 240 to Buxton to 218 - No. and Gardom's Baslow via Bakewell. Buses

Getting Around scan for map Grit Logistics Eastern with a precise GPS location. This location. GPS with a precise All the parking spots are indicated indicated All the parking spots are

53.34238 -1.63364 thetrainline.com.

Stanage Edge Popular End in the summer - arrive early if you want a prime parking space. GPS on your phone. on your navigation app the Google Maps navigation into direct (for Android) and choose to open the result open the result and choose to Android) (for iOS) or Google Goggles (for code using an app such as Scan code using an app such included. You can scan the QR You included. QR codes have also been also QR codes have formats. devices accept these numbers in alternative in alternative accept these numbers devices the sample blue box. Different SatNav SatNav Different box. the sample blue is in the form of two decimal numbers as in of twois in the form decimal numbers is The best website for finding train information information finding train for The best website The same distance again will reach Stanage. will reach again The same distance through the village and on to . Edge. Bamford the village and on to through again allows a longish walk (1.5 miles) (1.5 a longish walk allows again trains also stop at Bamford station which station at Bamford also stop trains or south to Tegness and Froggatt. Some and Froggatt. Tegness or south to Burbage South, Millstone and Lawrencefield, and Lawrencefield, Burbage South, Millstone pleasant walk leads up the Padley Gorge to to Gorge Padley leads up the pleasant walk and Manchester to Grindleford. A long but A long but Grindleford. to and Manchester Trains Trains service Sheffield is a regular from There are written assuming you are using one. using one. are you assuming written are Locations Parking in this book is by car and the approaches the approaches car and by book is in this The easiest way to access most of the crags the crags most of access to way The easiest 16 16 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags 18 Eastern Grit Logistics Accommodation, Pubs, Shops and Cafes

Accommodation The Scotsmans Pack - Hathersage, good Sheffield Area Useful websites for different types of for Stanage. Within walking distance of the accommodation are: North Lees campsite. Good beer and food. peakdistrictonline.co.uk ukclimbing.com/listings The Millstone - Below Millstone! Friendly Youth Hostels - There are numerous Youth staff and well-kept ale. Overnight parking Hostels in the Peak District, check out allowed if you have a pint and a breakfast.

Ladybower Area yha.org.uk The Grouse Inn (p.376) - Above the parking Camping area for Froggatt. Good food and popular There are many more campsites than these with climbers. two popular ones here. Chequers Inn (p.376) - Below Froggatt. www.prana.com Stanage - North Lees Camp Site Good food and ale plus a beer garden. Stanage Birley Lane, Hathersage (p.130). Tel: 01433 650838 The Sportsman - Lodge Moor, Sheffield. The most popular climbers' campsite in the Handy if you access Stanage from Redmires. area - booking will be needed at busy times. The Cheshire Cheese Inn - Hope. Great Baslow - Eric Byne Memorial Campsite atmosphere, food and beer. Often very busy. Burbage Valley Below , off the A619 (p.477). This is a rudimentary site (no vehicles The Druid Inn (p.506) - In Birchover, handy allowed) but it is in a central (and very quiet) for Cratcliffe. Very good food. location. Climbing Shops www.metoliusclimbing.com There are many other campsites scattered More shops listed at - Millstone AreaMillstone throughout the area, from small and basic to ukclimbing.com/listings very plush - ukcampsite.co.uk Outside - Inside back cover Pubs Main Road, Hathersage Pubs are an integral part of the climbing Tel: 01433 651936 experience for many. The Peak District is outside.co.uk Derwent Edges Derwent blessed with many fine hostelries which Crag X - 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield. make great locations for an après-climb Go Outdoors - Hill Street, Sheffield. pint where you can discuss the highs Go Outdoors - Main Road, Hathersage. and lows of your day. A few are listed Hitch 'n' Hike - Mytham Bridge, Hope Valley. below as recommended by readers of the UKClimbing.com forums. Cafes Chatsworth AreaChatsworth There are plenty of tea shops and cafes but www.evolvsports.com The Strines Inn (p.100) - A very old pub. three used by climbers are: Decent food and good for Dovestone Tor. Grindleford Station Cafe - (p.368) Just off the B6001 through Grindleford. Popular with The Anglers Rest - At Bamford. Owned by climbers and walkers. members of the local community. A good Outside Cafe - Above Outside in the centre

Southern CragsSouthern variety of beers, and excellent food. of Hathersage. Excellent cafe with good food. Palmers Cafe - By the traffic lights at The Norfolk Arms - Ringinglow, for Calver crossroads. Popular with cyclists and UK DISTRIBUTOR homeward-bound Sheffielders. Good food, climbers. Nice and central for the Derwent Route: The End of the Affair - E8 good beer, and well-used to smelly climbers. Valley section of Eastern Grit. www.beyondhope.co.uk Climber: Matt Cousins Photo: Kasia Osipowicz 20 Eastern Grit Logistics Climbing Walls Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley

The main wall at Awesome Walls in Sheffield - opened in 2013.

If you are rained off in the

Millstone AreaMillstone › - Lead routes Peak, or if you just want to Awesome Walls Sheffield fi›— top up your power in the fi - Bouldering Garter Street, Sheffield. winter months, the climbing — - Cafe Tel: 0114 244 6622 walls listed here are well ‡ - Major shop Large dedicated climbing centre. worth considering. Awesome Walls Stockport fi›—

Derwent Edges Derwent More information and more walls are on the The Engine House, Stockport. UKClimbing website at Tel: 0161 494 9949 ukclimbing.com/walls/ Large dedicated climbing centre. The Climbing Works fi‡— Awesome Walls Stoke fi›— Little London Road, Sheffield. Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel. 0114 250 9990 Chatsworth AreaChatsworth climbingworks.com Tel: 01782 341919 Bouldering wall with some leading lines. The Matrix fi Goodwin Sports Centre, awesomewalls.co.uk Northumberland Road, Sheffield, See advert on page 2 Tel. 0114 222 6999 sport-sheffield.com Southern CragsSouthern Wirksworth Leisure Centre fi›— The Foundry, Sheffield fi›‡— Hannage Way, Wirksworth. 45 Mowbray Street, Sheffield. Tel. 01629 824 717 Tel. 0114 244 6622 foundryclimbing.com

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 23

Eastern Grit Eastern

Climbing InformationClimbing

Dan Parkes placing the crucial runner before the crux of Billy Whizz (E2 5c) - page 362 - at Lawrencefield, while unseen monsters lurk in the watery depths of the pool below. 22 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags The ring ouzels have fledged - thank you. Parking parking areas in this book have All the crags with GPS coordinates indicated which are Please use and QR codes on the maps. is one thing If there these parking areas! it is landowners, that annoys all others above by someone's blocked their drive/field having you involve In some cases parking may car. and in one of the Pay spending some money parking areas. Display Dogs in this book are All the moorland areas an sheep and as such make by grazed If dogs. domestic destination for unsuitable best friend on a climbing your do take you up and on it is tied sure make please trip, good behaviour. General Behaviour and Access and Behaviour General

or install the BMC RAD app or install app Android iOS or your from do encounter If you store. the BMC contact problems, and Conservation Access always are They representative. discuss problems, to happy Grit Climbing Eastern thebmc.co.uk

BMC RAD app . ACT on the information more see opposite for for - see opposite and Trust Conservation BMC Access the BMC Access this guidebook is made to A contribution from the Rockfax web sales of web the Rockfax from A contribution

to the crags. to should be indicated by signs on the approach signs on the approach by should be indicated fire risk. These are detailed in the text, and/or text, the in detailed are These risk. fire restrictions because of nesting birds, or high or high because of nesting birds, restrictions In a few cases there may be temporary be may cases there In a few to enjoy largely unrestricted access to them. them. access to unrestricted largely enjoy to animals should be obvious to everyone. everyone. to animals should be obvious lucky are and we years many climbed on for you, park sensibly and avoid disturbing farm farm disturbing and avoid park sensibly you, been The majority have in this book of crags no fires, leave no litter, close gates after after gates close no litter, leave no fires, Access Complying with simple requests such as: as: such with simple requests Complying crag environment have never been greater. been greater. never have environment crag access to the cliffs and the pressures on the and the pressures the cliffs access to popular, increasing numbers of people want want of people numbers increasing popular, General Behaviour General more ever has become climbing Rock Email: [email protected] Email: Web: Web: Tel: 0870 010 4878 0870 010 Tel: Manchester, M20 2BB. Manchester, 177-179 Burton Road, Burton Road, 177-179 British Mountaineering Council, Council, Mountaineering British

a serious access dispute. can defuse a situation before it escalates into into it escalates can defuse a situation before RAD here - thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ RAD here stage at an early their involvement and often what the current situation is. You can check can check You situation is. what the current BMC Regional Access Database to check check to Database Access BMC Regional recommend that, when unsure, you use the you that, when unsure, recommend Access arrangements can change and we can change and we arrangements Access The BMC The 24 24 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags 26 Eastern Grit Climbing Environmental Considerations

A busy day at Dover's Wall. Group Usage Sheffield Area The nationwide network of indoor walls has introduced a new generation to climbing. As these climbers develop, many look to move outdoors which has resulted in a significant increase in courses offered by instructors, schools and outdoor centres. This is a good

Ladybower Area thing but it has lead to some problems on the popular edges. - Monopolisation of popular classic routes at busy times. - The use of inappropriate and dirty footwear leading to much more damage to holds. - Putting people on climbs that are too hard

Stanage for them leading rock being damaged while they scrabble around on the rope. - Sending a convoy of folks abseiling down popular lines causing significant erosion. Erosion - Repeated use of the same venues. Places like the left-hand end of the Black Rocks and

Burbage Valley The increased popularity of climbing has caused erosion problems, especially under the first bay at Yarncliffe Quarry are showing crags are used by lots of groups, and with serious signs of environmental degradation. a proliferation of paths at popular venues. Overuse of chalk also has impact on the rock The effects of overuse need to be and looks unsightly, as does needless wire considered by all visitors to the crags. If you brushing. Littering has also become an issue must visit the cliffs in a large group, please Millstone AreaMillstone and this includes using the crag environs as consider other climbers. a toilet. - Keep your kit in one area and avoid monopolising popular routes for long periods. Some general guidelines: - Arrange yourselves into several small - Don't stray from the popular paths groups rather than one large one. - Use less chalk - Pull your ropes down when they are not Derwent Edges Derwent - Don't use wire brushes being used so that others can climb. - Take your litter home - Go before you go!

Rock Damage There is no reason to try to improve holds Chatsworth AreaChatsworth on any of the routes on grit, if you think otherwise then you are wrong. Cams are very effective at levering loose flakes - please think before you place them. Damage to routes sometimes happens when attempting to retrieve stuck gear. Runners

Southern CragsSouthern that get stuck are usually poorly placed, so think before you place it. If a runner does get properly jammed it may be better leaving it for someone who can get it out without wrecking Good group practice at Stanage - using less popular routes, the rock. keeping to a compact area and protecting the cliff edge. 28 Eastern Grit Climbing Gear

Almost all the routes in this guide have no fixed gear so everything you

Sheffield Area need has to be carried with you. It is always worth taking a bit of time to scan a route to envisage the runner placements that might be available. It may seem obvious but wide cracks need big runners so starting up an off-width with a bunch of small wires doesn't make any more sense than setting off up a blank slab with a set of big cams, "just in case"!

Ladybower Area Runners Many old routes which were bold and unprotected leads in their day are now relatively safe with modern protection. A typical general gritstone rack will consist of a set of wires and a range of cams; the wide breaks and many cracks make gritstone ideal for camming devices. Hexes are a cheaper alternative though they are less versatile and are much noisier! Wires are useful for the narrow cracks plus a couple of slings

Stanage for threads and for lassoing blocks and boulders at the cliff-top belays. For harder routes, micro-wires, tiny cams and other more advanced devices may be essential.

Ropes Most grit routes are short enough to be climbed on a single rope, either Burbage Valley 10mm or a triple-rated thinner rope. The only exceptions are routes which wander around in which case you need two half-ropes, or you can use one rope doubled up - colour confusion guaranteed. Laced up! Other Gear Beyond these essentials you may also find useful: a poker for (gently) removing stubborn

Millstone AreaMillstone gear; tape for bandaging your hands before, or after, they are wrecked by some savage crack; a toothbrush for brushing smaller holds on hard routes. A bouldering mat can be very welcome on unprotected starts. The only other thing you need is in your hands now! Derwent Edges Derwent Chatsworth AreaChatsworth

Southern CragsSouthern Dave Clay and Steve Cunnington away from it all on Sneaking Sally Through the Alley (VS 4c) - page 169 - at Stanage North. Dave's gear matches the route well - a short climb up a thin crack = single rope, wires and small cams. 30 Eastern Grit Climbing Grades

The British Trad Grade is probably never

Sheffield Area more appropriately used than it is on ritish Trad Grade gritstone. Here the subtleties and versatility of the Trad Grade can be appreciated to their maximum and, because of its place at the heart of climbing in the UK, many of the routes are perceived as 'yard-sticks' for their respective grades.

Ladybower Area Bold Routes - Some gritstone routes have limited protection and you can find yourself in some very serious situations, especially on the harder climbs. This should be clear from the text, but please make sure you use your own skill and judgment as to whether you will be able to safely complete a chosen climb. A bold E2 may only feel like a sport

Stanage grade 6a on a top-rope but it is a very different proposition as a lead or solo.

Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VD, HVD, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard

Burbage Valley Very Severe (HVS), E1 to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained, and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) UK Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single move, or

Millstone AreaMillstone short section.

Colour Coding The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. Green Routes - Everything at grade Severe and under. Good for beginners and

Derwent Edges Derwent those looking for an easy life. Orange Routes - Hard Severe to HVS inclusive. General ticking routes for those with more experience. A large range of excellent routes is available across this band. Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive. Routes for the experienced and keen climber. A grade band which includes many of the Peak's great classics. Black Routes - E4 and above. A grade band for the talented and/or dedicated. Chatsworth AreaChatsworth Bouldering Grades The boulder problems in this book are given a Font Grade, which is the system established in Fontainbleau in France. This is now regarded by most British climbers as the best system for grading boulder problems and routes climbed using a 'highball approach' (see next page). The table below shows the approximate conversion between Font grades, V grades (the alternative bouldering grade system) and UK Technical grades which are mentioned above and used in this book for the routes. Southern CragsSouthern Font Grade f2 f2+ f3 f3+ f4 f4+ f5 f5+ f6A f6A+ f6B f6B+ f6C f6C+ f7A f7A+ f7B f7B+ f7C f7C+ f8A f8A+ f8B f8B+ f8C

V Grade VB V0- V0 V0+ V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V14 V15

UK Tech 6a 6c 3b 3c 4a 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c Grade 6b 7a 32 Eastern Grit Climbing Highballs or Routes?

Bouldering pads have changed the Olivier Coenen 'highballing' Ulysses Bow (E6/f6C) - page 191 - above pads and two spotters. Photo: David Bond Sheffield Area way people approach hard gritstone routes. What used to be a bold solo, sometimes practised on a top-rope, is now more often done ground-up above a stack of pads with spotters gathered around. This has led to a

Ladybower Area significant increase in the number of ascents some routes get. Bold climbs that used to get two or three leads/ solos a year can now receive ten ascents in an afternoon when the conditions (and number of pads and spotters) are right. Stanage Highball Grades This change in approach has led to a debate as to which is the correct style, and what grade is appropriate. This is a routes book so, in general, we have Burbage Valley given route grades. For routes which tend to see a lot of bouldering style 'highball' ascents, we have mentioned the accepted Font grade in the route description. In other places, shorter routes, which are virtually exclusively

Millstone AreaMillstone soloed or bouldered above pads, are given straight Font grades (see previous page for a conversion table for Font grades).

As a further complication, there is

Derwent Edges Derwent also the 'snowball' grade. After heavy snow huge drifts build up under the edges and some very bold routes become much more amenable challenges with levelled out snow platforms covered with bouldering

Chatsworth AreaChatsworth pads underneath them. There are some routes which only get highball ascents under these conditions and this is also mentioned in the descriptions. Southern CragsSouthern 34 Eastern Grit Climbing Ticklists Ticklists Eastern Grit Climbing 35

Working your way through a ticklist is one Sheffield Area of climbing's esoteric spin-off activities that Peaks and Pinnacles A Graded List of the Ticklists is great fun. It is a good indicator of your There are a surprising number of mini peaks and Is it possible to have too many ticklists? If you think not, progress through the grades, or how well you decent-sized pinnacles scattered along the Eastern here is a real challenge; try working your way through

edges, varying from simple scrambles, to summits that this lot. Area Sheffield are getting to know an area. Ticklists also give need climbing ability of up to VS. Here is a baker's you an excuse (if one was ever needed) to dozen of some of the most interesting in roughly z Stanage Green Spot Starters: Mod - S (133). 24 routes. visit new and varied areas. ascending order of difficulty. z Lawrencefield Taster: VD - VS (360). 5 routes. Ladybower Area z Rockfax books have had a long history of z The Promontory (525) Wharncliffe Hoary Classics: S - VS (61). 6 routes. Black Rocks - only a walk but super-exposed. high-quality ticklists with Top 50 and Top 500 z Peaks and Pinnacles: up to VS (opposite). 13 routes. z Three Ships (477) z Stanage Orange Spot Heaven: HS - HVS (261). 12 routes. routes lists always proving very popular. These Birchen - three easy ticks for the price of one. Area Ladybower ticklists, and many more, appear in the UKC z Baslow Bits and Bobs: Diff - HVS (449). 7 routes. z Over Owler Tor (330) logbooks so you can tick them in the books A great viewpoint over the Burbage arena. z Bamford Brilliance: HS - HVS (113). 5 routes. and log them online. z Higgar Tor (301) z Dovestone Summer Sampler: VS - HVS (108). 5 routes.

Stanage Mantel up the northeast corner - short and easy but z Best of Birchen: Mod - HVS (476). 12 routes. This time, in addition to the Top 50 symbol and leads to a great island in the sky. z Crack School Part: 1 VD - HVS (36). 25 routes. Top 500 Graded List, we have also included z Mother Cap (329) Stanage A tricky rounded scramble. z Rivelin Mid-grade Gems: VS - E1 (89). 6 routes. 26 individual Ticklists spread across the full z spectrum of Eastern Grit, geographically and z Bel Ami (433) Gardom's Classics: HVD - E1 (456). 6 routes. Curbar - best as a mini summit finish to the VS route. grade-wise. There is even a Ticklist of Ticklists z Never Been to Agden: S - E1 (72). 7 routes.

Burbage Valley z Prow Rock (48) z Black Rocks Historic Classics: HVD - E1 (521). 8 routes. - so that is 27 to go at! Finish that lot and you Wharncliffe - Inside Route, Diff is the easiest line can consider yourself and true aficionado and z Rivelin Cracks: VD - E2 (97). 6 routes. z Tegness Pinnacle (378) a damn good climber too! Tegness Quarry - Original Route, Diff is the way. z Burbage North Belles: HS - E2 (287). 6 routes. Burbage Valley z Weasel Pinnacle (508) z Higgar Tor Abrasive Testers: VS - E2 (299). 2 routes. Robin Hood's Stride - Letter Route, Diff. z Cratcliffe Classics: HVS - E3 (511). 6 routes. z Stonnis Pinnacle (524) z Chatsworth Choice Cuts: VD - E3 (495). 11 routes.

Millstone AreaMillstone Black Rocks - invariably done with Central Buttress, VD. z Froggatt - the Cracks: HVD - E3 (403). 14 routes. z Inaccessible Pinnacle (508) Robin Hood's Stride - Short Climb, VD. z Stanage Original and Best Top Ten: E1 - E3 (173). 10 routes. z Gardom's E3s: E3 . 4 routes. z Rivelin Needle (86) (465) Millstone Area Spiral Route, VS is the easiest option, abseil off. z Millstone Crackers: VS - E5 (355). 11 routes. z Froggatt Pinnacle (394) z Crack School Part 2: E1 - E5 (37). 25 routes. Valkyrie, HVS is the choice route although you can get z Froggatt - the Slabs: Diff - E7 . 14 routes. Derwent Edges Derwent up the back on Route One, VS 5a. Abseil descent. (387) z Curbar Crush: HS - E9 (427). 16 routes. z Burbage South Stoppers: E7 - E10 (327). 9 routes ... so far. Derwent Edges Chatsworth AreaChatsworth Chatsworth Area Southern CragsSouthern

Climbers on The Rasp (E2 5b) - page 300 - at Higgar Tor. The

Inaccessible Pinnacle at Robin Hood's Stride, not living up to its name for Steve Higgar Tor Abrasive Testers Ticklist may have only two routes Southern Crags Cunnington and Dave Gregory. One of the harder ticks on the Peaks and Pinnacles but it is probably harder to complete for most climbers than the Ticklist but still relatively amenable via Boulder Climb (HS 4c) - page 508. 25-route Crack School - Part 1 described on the next page.

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 37 37 Eastern Grit Climbing Eastern Ticklists . 5.10a is about right. 5.10a ). ).The start is a struggle. . Feels like a Millstone route. a Millstone like Feels ). 436 . A right ****ing struggle. ). . Off-fingers and very steep. Off-fingers ). ( . The start needs a stiff pull. The startneeds a stiff ). . Usually a greasy battle. a greasy Usually ). . A real ankle wrecker. A real ). 191 . Put your best fist forward. best fist your Put ). . Tough, though bridging helps. Tough, ). ( . Not quite as fierce as it looks. as it looks. as fierce quite Not ). . Finger-locking glory. Finger-locking ). 430 . Save some 'umph' for the bulge. some 'umph' for Save ). . Which way to face, left or right? left face, to way Which ). ( . The best crack climb in the UK! The best crack ). 256 334 . Steep, wide, awkward - yummy. awkward wide, Steep, ). ( ( . Don't get stuck in too deep. in too Don't get stuck ). 497 410 349 . Skinny fingers help ... a lot! help ... fingers Skinny ). 497 ( ( ( 198 401 353 ( 337 436 ( ( ( ( ( . Very unFroggatty. Very ). 351 . Go direct for the true pump. for direct Go ). . A jamming crack with teeth. A jamming crack ). 257 (

. A tottering layback for most. for layback A tottering ). 432 ( 362 . Only short work. Only such hard but ). ( ( 399 388 139 . The best on this neglected crag? The best on this neglected ). . Sustained and pushy. and pushy. Sustained ). ( ( ( 434 323 ( Crack School - Part 2 Crack ( 74 ( 324 ( Sentinel Crack, E3 Saville Street, E3 Goliath, E4 E5 London Wall, The Peapod, HVS Crack, HVS Tower E1 Dexterity, Embankment 3, E1 The Vice, E1 E1 Castor, Deadbay Crack, E1 The Unprintable, E1 The Big Crack, E2 Regent Street, E2 Zeus, E2 E2 Insanity, Synopsis, E2 Elder Crack, E2 E2 The Dangler, Billy Whizz, E2 E3 Gates of Mordor, The Right Eliminate, E3 Puppet Crack, HVS Goliath's Groove, HVS Goliath's Groove, HVS Wall, Avalanche z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z Okay, so you have should have made a good start made a good by should have have you so Okay, to down 1, now School - Part Crack from a selection ticking testers. some real with business z z Ticklists . Thin and technical. ). 532 . Wide and withering. Wide ). ( . An Xmas cracker. ). . Big fists help. Big fists ). . Don't you dare layback. dare you Don't ). . A real HVS jamming crack. A real ). . The start is tricky. The start is tricky. ). . Often green but tasty. but green Often ). . Just beautiful. Just ). . Best of its grade on Grit? of its grade Best ). . Sweet and superb. and Sweet ). . Paradise? Probably. Paradise? ). 413 . Some solid jamming moves. Some ). . A perfect quarryA perfect crack. ). . Passing the lip is perplexing. Passing ). . The startis perplexing. ). ( . Steep and juggy. Steep ). . Mild but neat. Mild but ). . The best VS on Burbage. The best ). 249 371 291 148 ( ( ( 485 ( . Wide and awkward at the top. and awkward Wide ). 472 390 ( . The start is a slippery pig. ). 115 292 ( 206 . The initial bulge is steep. The initial bulge ). ( 529 ( . Okay, you can layback this one. can layback you Okay, ). ( ( 350 542 281 164 152 ( 317 ( ( ( ( ( ( . Fingers to hands. to Fingers ). . A true test of your skill. of your A true test ). 361 96 188 ( 230 ( ( Grit Climbing Eastern ( 373 301 ( ( Crack School - Part 1 Crack

Bond Street, HVS

Terrazza Crack, HVS Terrazza Zapple, HVS Sorrell's Sorrow, HVS Sorrell's Sorrow, Birch Tree Wall Direct, VS Wall Birch Tree Great Crack, HVS The File, VS Altar Crack, VS Great Harry, VS Great Harry, Cardinal's Crack, VS Fern Crack, VS Hell Crack, VS Mutiny Crack, HS Byne's Crack, VS Stonnis Crack, HS Brown's Crack, HS Amazon Crack, HS Brooks' Layback, HS HS Paradise Wall, Twisting Crack, S Twisting Christmas Crack, HS N.M.C. Crack, HVD Trafalgar Crack, VD Crack, Trafalgar HVD Heather Wall, Kelly's Crack, VD Kelly's Crack,

Exiting the pod is the crux for many on The Peapod (HVS 5b) - page 436 - as big a classic as any crack in the Peak. Once ticked, it is eyes right for the chunkier challenge of The Right Eliminate. Photo: Mike Hutton z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z z Jamming - favourite technique or bugbear - whichever - whichever or bugbear technique - favourite Jamming the classics listed can't ignore you feel you way in the a good grounding you These should give below. them. try laybacking can always though you technique, 36 36 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags 38 Eastern Grit Climbing Top 500 Graded List Top 500 Graded List Eastern Grit Climbing 39

E10 E4 E2 E1 *** Ω Equilibrium ...... 316 4 Ω Profit of Doom ...... 431 ** Ω March Hare ...... 338 ** Ω Left-hand Pillar Crack . . . 474 Sheffield Area ** Ω Doctor Dolittle ...... 430 4 Ω Old Friends ...... 167 ** Ω Synopsis ...... 399 4 Ω L'Horla ...... 434 4 Ω Parthian Shot ...... 317 4 Ω Downhill Racer ...... 397 ** Ω Embankment 1 ...... 348 *** Ω Dark Continent ...... 233 *** Ω Peaches ...... 483 *** Ω Zeus ...... 324 ** Ω The Wobbler ...... 142 *** Ω Chameleon ...... 257 ** Ω Scroach ...... 437 *** Ω Time For Tea Original . . . 349 E9 Area Sheffield ** Ω Harder Faster ...... 532 *** Ω The Knock ...... 317 ** Ω Apollo ...... 416 ** Ω Pig's Ear ...... 159 *** Ω Knockin' on Heaven's Door . 432 *** Ω Usurper ...... 433 4 Ω Five Finger Exercise . . . .515 ** Ω Pollux ...... 74 4 Ω Meshuga ...... 526 ** Ω Oedipus Ring Your Mother . 395 ** Ω Tom Thumb ...... 512 ** Ω Now or Never ...... 284 *** Ω Indoor Fisherman . . . . .380 ** Ω Saddy ...... 425 ** Ω Smoke ont' Watter . . . . .425 Ladybower Area E8 ** Ω High Plains Drifter . . . . .362 4 Ω The Rasp ...... 300 ** Ω The Left Eliminate . . . . .436 4 Ω Gaia ...... 532 ** Ω The Hathersage Trip . . . .202 *** Ω Insanity ...... 434 ** Ω Great Peter ...... 361 4 Ω The End of the Affair . . . .414 4 Ω Moon Walk ...... 413 ** Ω Cave Eliminate ...... 242 4 Ω Moyer's Buttress . . . . . 463 *** Ω Slab and Crack ...... 430 *** Ω Auto da Fe ...... 93 ** Ω Undercut Crack ...... 119 *** Ω Millwheel Wall ...... 325

** Ω High Street ...... 362 4 Ω Fern Hill ...... 514 4 Ω The Tippler ...... 257 Area Ladybower E7 4 Ω The Brush Off ...... 91 ** Ω Easy Picking ...... 90 ** Ω Vibrio ...... 500 4 Ω The Master's Edge . . . . 345 *** Ω Goliath ...... 323 4 Ω Billy Whizz ...... 362 ** Ω Kayak ...... 428 4 Ω The Braille Trail ...... 316 ** Ω I'm Back ...... 88 *** Ω Suspense ...... 361 ** Ω Wrong Hand Route . . . . 122 ** Ω Benign Lives ...... 383 ** Ω Comus ...... 206 *** Ω The Dangler ...... 257 ** Ω Wild and Woolly ...... 151 Ω Ω Ω Stanage ** Ω Three Blind Mice . . . . . 292 *** The Strangler ...... 200 *** Midshipman ...... 481 ** The Irrepressible Urge . . . 291 4 Ω Beau Geste ...... 385 ** Ω Above and Beyond ...... 323 ** Ω Fern Groove ...... 188 *** Ω Promontory Traverse . . . .526 4 Ω Calvary ...... 212 *** Ω Elder Crack ...... 432 *** Ω Embankment 3 ...... 349 Stanage E6 *** Ω Autumn Wall ...... 66 ** Ω Sorb ...... 320 ** Ω The Unprintable ...... 256 4 Ω Ulysses' Bow ...... 191 ** Ω Jetrunner ...... 116 4 Ω Regent Street ...... 353 *** Ω Desperation ...... 242 *** Ω Narcissus ...... 395 ** Ω Wall End Slab Direct . . . .189 ** Ω The Toy ...... 435 ** Ω Big Air ...... 194 E3 *** Ω Knightsbridge ...... 347 *** Ω The Eye of Faith . . . . . 464 ** Ω Slackers ...... 418 ** Ω Demon Rib ...... 533 4 Ω Quietus ...... 165 *** Ω Tower Chimney ...... 198 Burbage Valley *** Ω Nosferatu ...... 320 *** Ω Saville Street ...... 337 ** Ω Mad Hatter ...... 421 ** Ω Goodbye Toulouse . . . . .254 ** Ω Jasmine ...... 123 ** Ω Ontos ...... 125 ** Ω Pearls ...... 499 *** Ω Embankment 4 ...... 349 ** Ω Life Assurance ...... 316 *** Ω Twikker ...... 342 ** Ω Savage Messiah . . . . . 517 ** Ω Nonsuch ...... 96 *** Ω Desolation Angel ...... 64 4 Ω Sentinel Crack ...... 497 *** Ω Orang-outang ...... 149 ** Ω White Out ...... 84 *** Ω Make it Snappy ...... 469 ** Ω Finger Distance ...... 429 ** Ω Piccadilly Circus . . . . . 353 *** Ω Great Buttress Arete . . . . 56 Burbage Valley 4 Ω The Archangel ...... 191 ** Ω Bean Stalk ...... 512 ** Ω Motorcade ...... 391 E5 ** Ω Boulevard ...... 362 ** Ω Dirty Stop Out ...... 124 4 Ω Flying Buttress Direct . . . 254 Ω Ω *** Ω Off Spring ...... 326 ** Ω Banana Wall ...... 63 *** Erb ...... 342 ** Nemmes Pas Harry . . . . 115 *** Ω Cave Wall ...... 386 4 Ω Brown's Eliminate . . . . .400 ** Ω Autumn Day ...... 108 Millstone AreaMillstone *** Ω White Wand ...... 192 Ω Ω 4 Ω Hairless Heart ...... 398 ** Ω Moribund ...... 210 *** The Sentinel ...... 285 ** Strapiombante ...... 382 Ω Ω *** Ω Ulysses or Bust ...... 414 ** Ω Brown's Eliminate Direct . . 400 ** Brimstone ...... 334 ** Hugo de Vries ...... 541 Ω Ω 4 Ω London Wall ...... 351 ** Ω The Guillotine ...... 226 ** Yosemite Wall ...... 251 ** The Vice ...... 139 Ω ** Ω Fate ...... 163 4 Ω Long Tall Sally ...... 292 4 Ω Goosey Goosey Gander . . 149 ** Crocodile ...... 469 Millstone Area 4 Ω Ω 4 Ω Edge Lane ...... 345 *** Ω Censor ...... 256 Tower Face Direct . . . . .198 ** Billingsgate ...... 343 Ω Ω *** Ω Pebble Mill ...... 322 *** Ω Great West Road . . . . . 345 ** Auricle ...... 124 ** Delectable Direct . . . . . 367 Ω Ω *** Ω Pool Wall ...... 361 *** Ω The Right Eliminate . . . . 436 ** Pot Black ...... 207 ** Lamebrain ...... 422 Ω Ω *** Ω Bat Out of Hell ...... 300 *** Ω Tippler Direct ...... 257 *** Wuthering ...... 240 ** Mississippi Variant Direct . .233 Derwent Edges Derwent Ω Ω 4 Ω Green Death ...... 345 ** Ω King Kong ...... 165 ** Cinturato ...... 196 ** Strapiombo ...... 382 Ω Ω ** Ω El Vino Collapso . . . . . 429 ** Ω Angst ...... 87 ** Soyuz ...... 416 ** Anniversary Arete . . . . .170 Ω Ω ** Ω Heartless Hare ...... 398 *** Ω The Asp ...... 240 *** Count's Buttress . . . . . 181 ** Eros ...... 341 Ω Ω ** Ω The Tempest ...... 84 ** Ω Exit ...... 82 ** Nightmare Slab ...... 180 ** Fringe Benefit ...... 91

Ω Ω Derwent Edges 4 Ω Strapadictomy ...... 382 ** Ω Ashes ...... 229 *** The Big Crack ...... 401 ** Saliva ...... 229 4 Ω ** Ω Artless ...... 399 *** Ω Impossible Slab ...... 165 The Left Unconquerable . . 214 Ω ** Ω Coventry Street ...... 353 ** Ω Gates of Mordor . . . . . 334 ** Kirkus's Corner ...... 255 *** Ω Escape/Boot Hill . . . . . 514 ** Ω Pedlar's Rib ...... 225

Chatsworth AreaChatsworth 4 Ω Great Slab ...... 398 ** Ω Tom-cat Slab ...... 184 The last edition of this guidebook from 2006 had an extensive *** Ω Waterloo Sunset . . . . . 471 4 Ω The Link ...... 233 Ω ** Ω Morrison's Redoubt . . . . 233 graded list of 343 routes which was added to from the Rockfax ** The Unreachable Star . . . 414 ** Ω Golden Days ...... 534 ** Ω Easter Rib ...... 249 web site to create a list known as the 'ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top ** Ω Dextrous Hare ...... 338 ** Ω Surform ...... 300 500'. This has become one of the most popular Ticklists on UKC ** Ω Telli ...... 212 4 Ω Millsom's Minion . . . . . 207 Chatsworth Area Logbooks with over 300 subscribers yet no-one has yet completed it, ** Ω Black Hawk Bastion ...... 258 ** Ω Hearse Arete ...... 466 although some are very close. *** Ω Time For Tea ...... 349 ** Ω Hades ...... 324 ** Ω Cave Crack ...... 386 ** Ω Dexterity ...... 338

Southern CragsSouthern This new list below contains a full 500 routes this time. These have ** Ω Long John's Slab . . . . . 396 ** Ω Thread Flintstone . . . . .105 been assembled from the votes on UKClimbing which numbered ** Ω Silica ...... 206 ** Ω Biven's Crack ...... 463 over 200,000 separate grade votes at the time of writing. Every route in this list has had over 30 votes and most have had many more.

Michele Caminati tackling the lower Southern Crags blank groove of Gaia (E8 6c) - page 532 This might make it very accurate, however you may disagree. What - at Black Rocks. Photo Mike Hutton we do know is that it will be a while before anyone ticks all these!

Sheffield Area Sheffield Area Ladybower Stanage Valley Burbage Area Millstone Edges Derwent Area Chatsworth Crags Southern 41 41 58 64 85 80 138 139 152 192 257 229 251 252 230 397 502 361 259 238 230 523 ...... VD Black Slab Right Black ...... Chimney Castle ...... Martello Cracks The Ariel Hollybush Crack Hollybush . . . Crack Leaning Buttress ...... Hell Gate Crack Heaven Trapeze Emperor Flake Climb Flake Emperor ...... Groove Pulpit Climb . . . . . Prospero's Chimney David's Left Traverse Hawk Black Crack Kelly's Right Gully Hollybush . . . . Chimney Right Twin Crack Birch ...... Chimney Devil's . . . Gully Queen's Parlour Mod - at Stanage Popular. - at Stanage page 233 Amazon Crack (S 4a) Amazon The delightful - ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 67 95 95 59 75 56 83 80 161 191 213 175 125 139 167 164 140 206 472 528 288 254 524 390 241 238 236 484 397 249 533 233 259 485 247 482 282 262 ...... Eastern Grit Climbing Eastern ...... S Paradise Crack Paradise ...... Crack N.M.C. . . . Chimney Overhanging ...... Arete Stonnis Layback Chimneys Twin ...... Lincoln Crack ...... Buttress Flying Struggle Helfenstein's ...... Buttress Central Heather Wall . . . . . Remedy Renshaw's Chimney Chockstone ...... Buttress Broken Hood's Crack Robin ...... and Cave Crack Root Route Root ...... Wall Bamford Buttress Balcony Parade Monkey Powder Progress Puttrell's Allen's Slab Right-hand Trinity ...... Gully Lone Tree ...... Crack Campsite ...... Crawl The Crab Buttress Cave (Stanage) Crack Amazon Hell Crack Hawk Black ...... Crack Twisting ...... Wall Trafalgar Chimney Doctor's ...... Crack Beta Dilemma Rodney's Birch Buttress Birch Bishop's Route ...... Chimney Sail Wall Ash Tree and Corner Crack HVD ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 64 65 List Graded 500 Top 115 190 165 125 148 166 190 153 152 395 228 260 206 249 291 321 281 259 247 292 421 388 464 341 482 485 384 529 259 431 370 246 249 400 255 361 339 ...... HS ...... Byne's Route ...... Crack Brown's Diamond Crack Face Tower Buttress Manchester ...... April Crack Paradise Wall Paradise ...... Crack Hell Gate Layback Brooks' The Drainpipe ...... Crack Mutiny Hawk Black The Coign Zagrete (Burbage) Crack Amazon ...... Wall Potter's Corner Climb Norse Terrace Crack Terrace Oracle . . . Direct Buttress Elliott's Slab ...... Great Arete Marble Buttress Sail . . . . Crawl Camperdown Buttress Tango ...... Sunset Crack Crack Stonnis Crack Castle . . . Direct End Crack Wall 1 ...... P.M.C...... Ant's Wall Hood's RH Buttress Robin Slab ...... October Christmas Crack Gut Green Face Jitter Climb . . . . . Tree Three Eartha Eliminate Kelly's ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 74 67 62 84 115 115 176 107 102 105 103 164 164 189 158 161 166 170 123 190 120 139 192 181 418 166 168 367 251 337 230 232 480 249 533 478 292 249 433 246 243 229 228 325 473 259 493 482 320 325 344 249 286 247 523 250 350 246 244 238 341 206 466 529 286 466 233 ...... Hell Crack Nest The Crow's Crewcut 1 Route . . The Variation Delectable ...... Buttress Narrow Bilberry Crack ...... Quien Sabe? . . . . . High Neb Buttress Day Remembrance Original Hargreaves' Titanic Revenge Richard's . . . . . The Louisiana Rib Crack Inaccessible ...... Direct Porthole Crack Hollyash ...... Barney Rubble . . . . Macleod's Variation Cracks Parallel ...... Wall Wrinkled Direct Crack Inaccessible Groove Lone Tree Himmelswillen Crack Greeny Crack Zig-zag Flake Crack End Flake Wall Trinity Central Titania Bel Ami Crack Straight Chimney Jonathan's End Slab Wall Band ...... Rubber Slab Queen's Parlour Via Media Flake Gargoyle Garden Covent . . . . . Crab Arete Crawl . . . . . Martello Buttress V Inverted ...... The Whittler The Nose ...... Eliminate Dunkley's Steps Fairy Apple Arete Buttress Gargoyle Nelson's Nemesis ...... Topsail Reginald . . . . . House Flake Fox Crack Cosmic Count's Crack Count's ...... Ellis's Eliminate Buttress Chimneys Twin ...... The Brain ...... Buttress Central Variations High Neb Buttress Titanic Progress Peter's Lorica ...... Arete Paradise Undertaker's Buttress Oread Lean Man's Climb Direct Mississippi Buttress Typhoon *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 96 86 83 67 86 116 411 301 107 107 315 417 315 128 188 151 191 143 142 212 124 198 140 158 128 217 386 349 532 230 361 351 468 529 362 286 292 539 396 402 241 242 482 227 241 222 384 400 402 241 496 255 236 246 532 542 338 237 224 390 323 233 252 286 293 ...... Top 500 Graded List Graded 500 Top ...... VS Embankment 2 Route Roof ...... Wall Tree Birch Pitch Route Two . . . . . Crack Step-ladder ...... Crack Fern HarryGreat ...... Nest Crack Hawk's The Mall Curving ...... Crack Unconquerable Gardom's Buttress Sand Excalibur ...... Crack Great ...... Arete Saul's Obscenity Route Gable . . . Grammarian's Progress ...... The File Crack Gunpowder Amber Arete ...... Crack Broken Finish The Shylock Chequers Climb ...... Chequers Innom. Hood's Cave Robin ...... Crack Altar ...... Sister First ...... Route The Spiral Edge ...... Left Cave Arete ...... Ratline Crack Butcher Finish Super Direct Harding's Microbe Arete August Sunset Slab ...... Rib Bamford Pedestal Crack Pedestal . . . . . Buttress Chequers . . . Hood's/Harding's Robin . . Mort ...... Wall Face Tower Old Salt . . . . Variation Townsend's ...... Stage Centre Retroversion Variations Wall Tree Birch ...... Crack Great Climb Claw April Arete ...... Cioch Crack Crack Agony 2 Route Wall, Dover's Crawl BAW's Wall Tody's ...... David Saunter Doctor's . . . . . Mississippi Variant . . . Direct Leaning Buttress Oil Croton Knight's Move Right Fin ...... Quantum Crack Wall Randy's The Groper ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 95 84 82 411 401 107 210 105 517 517 198 148 140 164 317 168 156 124 413 196 214 159 161 150 191 316 124 316 125 159 167 394 436 460 244 207 483 373 229 258 497 241 433 541 539 347 349 392 350 264 246 337 251 350 207 286 205 249 434 225 249 336 233 430 241 409 ...... Grit Climbing Eastern ...... Sepulchrave Valkyrie ...... Suicide Wall ...... The Peapod Crack Tower Crack Terrazza ...... Flyby Lancaster ...... Nowanda . . . . . Saunter Surgeon's Overhang Kelly's Brooks' Crack Brooks' ...... Good Friday Cue ...... Orpheus Wall ...... Direct Titanic ...... Deuteronomy Zapple ...... The Scoop ...... Eliminator ...... Crack Puppet . . . . Direct Neb Buttress ...... Sorrow Sorrell's ...... Wall Gully Cave ...... Fina Route Roof Green Crack Green . . The Right Unconquerable Travesties The Blurter Right-hand Tower Arete Overton Goliath's Groove Amber Buttress NorthGreat Road Whitehall Crack Chequers Slab . . . . . Pebble Three ...... Bond Street The Rainmaker ...... Buttress Great Rugosity Crack Wall Tree Turkey Cold Plexity Queersville Street Portland Great Buttress Billiard Ridge ...... Blizzard Wall Overhanging The Flange Maupassant ...... Crack Tower Slab ...... Pedlar's Neb Buttress Magic P./Black Whillans' Krack Kremlin Corner Congo Charlie's Crack The Wanderer Happy Wall Avalanche ...... Paucity The Knutter Creepers Jeepers The Line Namenlos ...... Estremo HVS

** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω *** Ω *** Ω ** Ω 4 Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω ** Ω 40 40 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags

Sheffield Area Area Sheffield Sheffield Area Area Ladybower Ladybower Stanage Stanage Valley Valley Burbage Burbage Area Area Millstone Millstone Edges Edges Derwent Derwent Area Area Chatsworth Chatsworth Crags Crags Southern Southern 43 46 70 78 Page 332 356 368 376 404 440 456 476 494 506 510 520 536 542 543 100 112 134 178 218 274 296 306 310 330 Summary The finest quarry in the UK with superb walls and soaring crack-lines. Once an aid venue, now home to a great set of free climbs. a tree-filled quarry with a fine set of steep routes Millstone's little sister, around a green pond. Quite good for beginners. the first bay are veryAnother hole in the ground. The popular easy climbs in tired although there are better routes to the right. in the Eastern Peak. Some excellent cracks and the best set of slabby routes The cracks are safe, the slabs aren't. face climbs Curbar's reputation is well known; beefy cracks and serious means that visits here often involve memorable struggles. A small rambling crag which is often very quiet. Not much in the way of classics but a decent set of easier climbs. Some jutting buttresses poking from a wooded bouldery hillside. Can be green and midgy when humid. Best after a dry spell. Some routes A popular spot with beginners and groups and often very busy. are polished, especially the starts. overgrown, A crag with a similar feel to Gardom's, neglected and a bit although nice when the conditions are right. pinnacles in a superb rural setting. Popular with boulderers and walkers, Twin but there is a pleasant set of climbs here too. of the trees Some superb soaring walls and classic routes. The removal means the place can now be viewed in all its glory. historical challenges A dark crag with a contrasting set of climbs, some great and a fine set of modern desperates. Often green. The main A rhododendron-cloaked crag overlooking the Amber Valley. sheltered. buttresses stick proud of the shrubs and are worth a look. Very though most of the routes are neglected and An extensive and gloomy quarry, include the two classics. overgrown. We Another verybet on windy days and you will probably sheltered crag, a good have the whole place to yourself. A short outcrop overlooking Stocksbridge. Routes tend to be steep, fingery tend to be steep, Routes Stocksbridge. outcrop overlooking A short are common. Bad landings and hard. the something a little different into unstable cliff that adds A large and rather is needed when climbing here. CARE local mix. GREAT low so a South facing and quite Sheffield city boundary. A crag within the after rain. sunny days. Can be green good bet for cold A the longest walk-in in the book. crag reached by A wild and remote-feeling visit. makes it well worth a summer superb setting above the Ladybower ReservoirA lovely setting a great set of routes on a with Often busy. series of quality buttresses. provides a neat contrast to the rest of the cliff The northern chunk of Stanage can be green in winter. with remote-feeling climbs that and varied routes in a charming setting above The Plantation provides many with both boulderers and route climbers. popular the trees. Very - you will need to share it with Peak/UK/World The most popular crag in the go round. others, but there is plenty to routes scattered along the edge. The left end Plenty of short but good quality can be very busy but walking right will ease the crowding. Block has a brilliant set of rough, tough and Only a small crag but the Leaning are worth a visit. steep climbs. The shorter walls morning sun which is rare for Eastern Grit. The A minor outcrop with some is always dirty. more impressive northern sector of dingy quarries. A set of generally short and shady buttresses and a couple Oddly it is home to many of grit's hardest offerings. a lovely breezy Only a small outcrop with a minor selection of climbs in setting. A great spot to watch the sun go down. Green & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & & Shelter $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Sun T U U } } } T R } R R R R } } U U U } } U T R R R E W W Faded symbol means that only some of the routes are green or the crag doesn't always offer shelter. offer doesn't always or the crag green are routes some of the means that only symbol Faded 8 - 10 min 6 min 10 - 12 min 2 - 20 min 8 - 20 min 1 - 2 min 5 - 18 min 3 - 20 min 5 - 20 min 10 - 25 min 6 - 10 min 10 min 5 - 8 min 5 min 12 - 25 min 12 - 18 min 5 - 15 min 5 - 6 min 20 min 10 min 5 - 12 min 10 - 15 min 20 - 40 min 20 - 40 10 - 15 min 40 min 15 - 22 min 10 - 12 min 4 - 8 min Approach S A A S S A S G S S S S A S S A S F G A A A A A S A S S - 5 3 7 1 5 2 7 3 6 3 5 11 13 13 15 33 32 72 47 20 50 39 63 73 23 20 30 E4 upwards E4 - 1 4 5 4 11 11 15 14 16 76 86 24 22 30 36 43 20 43 20 43 29 57 33 20 35 116 100 E1 to E3 to E1 7 1 4 8 10 18 15 16 22 84 32 49 62 27 20 49 47 65 61 62 24 46 53 65 101 219 148 200 HS to HVS to HS - 7 3 6 8 6 5 11 15 13 12 39 42 28 92 22 24 28 35 24 28 39 71 80 87 58 114 123 up to S to up 2 17 44 23 69 51 87 29 21 67 32 50 115 117 101 159 195 170 155 179 137 186 416 197 289 451 470 221 Routes

Destination Planner Destination

Duke's QuarryDuke's Cliff Shining Black Rocks Edge Turningstone Robin Hood's Stride Cratcliffe Birchen Chatsworth Baslow Gardom's Froggatt Curbar Lawrencefield Quarry Yarncliffe Over Over Owler Tor Millstone Carl Wark Carl Burbage South Burbage North Higgar Tor Stanage Plantation Stanage Popular Stanage Bamford NorthStanage Rivelin Tor Dovestone Wharncliffe Rocher Agden

Southern Crags Southern Chatsworth Chatsworth Millstone Area Millstone Burbage Valley Burbage Stanage Sheffield Area Sheffield Derwent Edges Derwent Ladybower 42 42 Sheffield Area Ladybower Area Stanage Burbage Valley Millstone Area Derwent Edges Chatsworth Area Southern Crags