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Beak Area Newsletter Issue 5 Spring 2009 Hello, and welcome to the latest issue of the Peak The other major upcoming event is the Sheffield Area Newsletter. Adventure Film Festival or SHAFF; the biggest and best yet. The Newsletter is written by Peak climbers and walk- ers for Peak climbers and walkers. We're always keen for articles and other contributions for the newslet- Coming Back ter, on any topic that is relevant to the readership. Submission deadlines are in the Calendar (on the last By Julian Materna page) and we can be contacted by email at [email protected]. Perhaps a reader in a team do- Okay, so I was never going to be a brilliant climber, ing the High Peak Marathon this year might like to mainly VD and S outdoors (with one E0) and leading put finger to keyboard... around 6a+ indoors (subject to grading), I could maybe boulder V2 on a good day, but I enjoyed it and had several fun trips to Font amongst other places. Then, in October 2007, my left shoulder started to hurt. I had physiotherapy and cortisone injections, but they didn’t help and the pain got worse, so I had to lay off climbing for a while and in March I was dia- gnosed with bone cancer! Well I thought a couple of The newsletter is not a repeat of the BMC website but rounds of chemotherapy and possibly an operation readers will be interested in the latest news on the to replace the top of the humerus with some shiny Longstone Edge legal battle. The Court of Appeal steel (all climbers like shiny bits), I’d be climbing as hearing began on 10 February. If the appeal fails, the good as I had previously, if not better. In July, Longstone Edge Coalition will ask DEFRA to intervene however I had to have a left forequarter amputation to halt the quarrying. (arm, shoulder blade, collarbone and a fair bit of muscle). I thought I’d never be able to climb again. The next Peak Area meeting is on 24 February in Sheffield at the Psalter Arms (178 Psalter Lane) start- While recuperating I had reports of other climbers ing at 1930. Get your opinion heard and find out with limbs missing so two months later and with about the issues affecting you. Or just come along for help from friends I managed to top rope a few routes the free food and entertainment including a SHAFF at Wharnecliffe. This inspired me to try and get back preview. Topics on the agenda include: Area access into climbing properly, but with winter fast ap- updates; Longstone Edge update; Bolt replacement at proaching I’d struggle to get outdoors and I realised Harpur Hill; Matlock Moor Wind Farm proposals and that anything vertical or overhanging would be im- an update on how to submit articles to this newslet- possible and how could I belay? ter. All followed by a selection of films from SHAFF On The Edge. An email to the Edge provided the answer. Although I am now looking forwards to an improvement in the there is no formal policy for disabled climbers (I don’t think of my self as disabled by the way), Phil Robbins realised that I’d be limited to certain routes indoors and in recognition of the work I do for the BMC allowed me and my partner to climb there for free. weather so that I can get outside and maybe try that infamous E0 again. Access Report By Henry Folkard It is nice to have some good news to report. The proposal in respect of the future management of the Eastern Moors put forward by the National I was still concerned how I’d be able to belay safely. Trust and RSPB (and supported by BMC and Friends When we went down to climb indoors for the first of the Peak) will be recommended, without prejudice, time Phil was waiting for us with a bag full of gear. to Members of the National Park Authority subject to After several attempts using shunts, knotted ropes clarification of some details, and with the support of and various belay devices, he suddenly realised that the National Park’s Senior Management Team and there were some Wild Country SRCs (Single Rope the Chair of the relevant Committee. Sounds a bit Controllers) that they no longer used. He fetched one formal, but it's looking good. The final decision is ex- and with the addition of a foot loop I managed to pected in March. safely belay. Phil had spent around 2 hours with us and at the end of the session gave me the SRC, which And then the spotlight will fall on the Roaches Es- was lucky, as they’re no longer made. tate. What’s going to happen about that? I’ve since been to The Edge a few times, and if I pick Around the crags, the BMC had a positive meeting my routes (corners and slabs) I’m climbing routes with the RSPB in the Chew Valley, where the Soci- graded around 5+ and belaying quite safely. Lead be- ety have a set of visionary plans to enhance the laying is proving tricky – too much resistance in the beauty of the valley, none of which will affect climb- system – but I am sure we can cross that bridge later. ing or hill walking access. To quote another amputee – when life throws you lemons, make limbonade… Peak Area Newsletter – Issue 5 Spring 2009 2 At Stanage some vandalism to a holly in the vicinity the National Park Planning Committee in December of BAWs crawl was ill judged. If whoever did it had on the Tearsall application, which has become been caught he or she could have been liable to pro- linked to the future of Peak Pastures (that key secution and a heavy fine because it is a simple mat- piece of land above the Hassop road coming out of ter of the law of the land that to disturb vegetation in Calver Sough). A decision was deferred to a special a SSSI requires the consent of Natural England. Else- meeting of the full Authority scheduled for 30 Janu- where in that neck of the woods the owner of the ary. And the BMC wrote to object to an application land north of the Long causeway i.e. Bamford and concerning Stoke Hall Quarry. Proposals for a Moscar Moors has announced that his land will be new site entrance are currently postponed, but that closed from 15 May to 17 June – Sundays in May, Sat- part of the application which deals with a rephrasing urdays and Sundays in June of the method of working is and Bank Holiday Mondays OpenStreetMap still being considered: reph- excepted. The landowner rasing means what it says in- has however agreed to allow If you use a GPS and possess a computer with sofar as the total permitted climbing to continue on internet access you may be interested in getting volumes are not being Stanage Edge so long as involved in what is basically a 'wikipedia for maps'; changed, it is just the way in there are no incidents with OpenStreetMap is a free editable map of the whole world. It which the work is to be done. dogs – which are never al- is made by people like you. It allows you to view, edit and The operators claim the new lowed on those grouse proposals will have a benefi- use geographical data in a collaborative way from moors at any time of the cial landscape impact – which year. anywhere on Earth. There are also OpenCycleMap and is as well since the permission OpenPisteMap (I kid yee not). It's not just for geeks; at Stoke Hall runs to 2042. Any bird restrictions later in data can include details of pubs, postbox collection the year will be posted on times, MR posts; just about anything based around Please ask at the meeting if site, on web sites, and in loc- mapping. Updated within a few hours of Hurricane you want more details on any al climbing walls and retail Katrina it enabled aid vehicles to bypass damaged of this, or any other local or outlets. The on site notices bridges etc., something other maps and satnav national assess matters. are always bang up to date. devices didn't achieve for several days. Take a look. Look out for restrictions too Finally a word about car at the Roaches and crime. Beware. The BMC Ravensdale: every year is different. thanked the Police for the very successful campaign they ran last year. But some crime figures in the rur- Further south we have a meeting to review recent al area may be on the increase again: you can never proliferation of trees at Black Rocks, and are seek- be too careful. ing to revisit the longstanding situation at Willers- ley. ROACHES PEREGRINES 2009 Last year the old path up to Stoney West was by Dave Bishop cleared, and some longstanding routes revealed in their full glory. Am I the only person who went A meeting to discuss arrangements for future man- there? agement of the Peregrine nesting restriction at the Roaches was held at the Peak District National Park On landscape issues, the long awaited Court of Ap- (PDNPA) offices in November 2008. The meeting was peal hearing on Backdale is on 10 and 11 February attended by the PDNPA, Natural England (NE) the at the Royal Courts of Justice: a representative of the government agency with responsibility for advising BMC will be there to observe the proceedings.
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