Issue 5 Spring 2009

Hello, and welcome to the latest issue of the Peak The other major upcoming event is the Area Newsletter. Adventure Film Festival or SHAFF; the biggest and best yet. The Newsletter is written by Peak climbers and walk- ers for Peak climbers and walkers. We're always keen for articles and other contributions for the newslet- Coming Back ter, on any topic that is relevant to the readership. Submission deadlines are in the Calendar (on the last By Julian Materna page) and we can be contacted by email at [email protected]. Perhaps a reader in a team do- Okay, so I was never going to be a brilliant climber, ing the High Peak Marathon this year might like to mainly VD and S outdoors (with one E0) and leading put finger to keyboard... around 6a+ indoors (subject to grading), I could maybe boulder V2 on a good day, but I enjoyed it and had several fun trips to Font amongst other places. Then, in October 2007, my left shoulder started to hurt. I had physiotherapy and cortisone injections, but they didn’t help and the pain got worse, so I had to lay off climbing for a while and in March I was dia- gnosed with bone cancer! Well I thought a couple of The newsletter is not a repeat of the BMC website but rounds of chemotherapy and possibly an operation readers will be interested in the latest news on the to replace the top of the humerus with some shiny Longstone Edge legal battle. The Court of Appeal steel (all climbers like shiny bits), I’d be climbing as hearing began on 10 February. If the appeal fails, the good as I had previously, if not better. In July, Longstone Edge Coalition will ask DEFRA to intervene however I had to have a left forequarter amputation to halt the quarrying. (arm, shoulder blade, collarbone and a fair bit of muscle). I thought I’d never be able to climb again. The next Peak Area meeting is on 24 February in Sheffield at the Psalter Arms (178 Psalter Lane) start- While recuperating I had reports of other climbers ing at 1930. Get your opinion heard and find out with limbs missing so two months later and with about the issues affecting you. Or just come along for help from friends I managed to top rope a few routes the free food and entertainment including a SHAFF at Wharnecliffe. This inspired me to try and get back preview. Topics on the agenda include: Area access into climbing properly, but with winter fast ap- updates; Longstone Edge update; Bolt replacement at proaching I’d struggle to get outdoors and I realised Harpur Hill; Matlock Moor Wind Farm proposals and that anything vertical or overhanging would be im- an update on how to submit articles to this newslet- possible and how could I belay? ter. All followed by a selection of films from SHAFF On The Edge. An email to the Edge provided the answer. Although I am now looking forwards to an improvement in the there is no formal policy for disabled climbers (I don’t think of my self as disabled by the way), Phil Robbins realised that I’d be limited to certain routes indoors and in recognition of the work I do for the BMC allowed me and my partner to climb there for free.

weather so that I can get outside and maybe try that infamous E0 again.

Access Report

By Henry Folkard

It is nice to have some good news to report.

The proposal in respect of the future management of the Eastern Moors put forward by the National I was still concerned how I’d be able to belay safely. Trust and RSPB (and supported by BMC and Friends When we went down to climb indoors for the first of the Peak) will be recommended, without prejudice, time Phil was waiting for us with a bag full of gear. to Members of the National Park Authority subject to After several attempts using shunts, knotted ropes clarification of some details, and with the support of and various belay devices, he suddenly realised that the National Park’s Senior Management Team and there were some Wild Country SRCs (Single Rope the Chair of the relevant Committee. Sounds a bit Controllers) that they no longer used. He fetched one formal, but it's looking good. The final decision is ex- and with the addition of a foot loop I managed to pected in March. safely belay. Phil had spent around 2 hours with us and at the end of the session gave me the SRC, which And then the spotlight will fall on Es- was lucky, as they’re no longer made. tate. What’s going to happen about that?

I’ve since been to The Edge a few times, and if I pick Around the crags, the BMC had a positive meeting my routes (corners and slabs) I’m climbing routes with the RSPB in the Chew Valley, where the Soci- graded around 5+ and belaying quite safely. Lead be- ety have a set of visionary plans to enhance the laying is proving tricky – too much resistance in the beauty of the valley, none of which will affect climb- system – but I am sure we can cross that bridge later. ing or hill walking access. To quote another amputee – when life throws you lemons, make limbonade…

Peak Area Newsletter – Issue 5 Spring 2009 2 At Stanage some vandalism to a holly in the vicinity the National Park Planning Committee in December of BAWs crawl was ill judged. If whoever did it had on the Tearsall application, which has become been caught he or she could have been liable to pro- linked to the future of Peak Pastures (that key secution and a heavy fine because it is a simple mat- piece of land above the Hassop road coming out of ter of the law of the land that to disturb vegetation in Calver Sough). A decision was deferred to a special a SSSI requires the consent of Natural . Else- meeting of the full Authority scheduled for 30 Janu- where in that neck of the woods the owner of the ary. And the BMC wrote to object to an application land north of the i.e. Bamford and concerning Stoke Hall Quarry. Proposals for a Moscar Moors has announced that his land will be new site entrance are currently postponed, but that closed from 15 May to 17 June – Sundays in May, Sat- part of the application which deals with a rephrasing urdays and Sundays in June of the method of working is and Bank Holiday Mondays OpenStreetMap still being considered: reph- excepted. The landowner rasing means what it says in- has however agreed to allow If you use a GPS and possess a computer with sofar as the total permitted climbing to continue on internet access you may be interested in getting volumes are not being Stanage Edge so long as involved in what is basically a 'wikipedia for maps'; changed, it is just the way in there are no incidents with OpenStreetMap is a free editable map of the whole world. It which the work is to be done. dogs – which are never al- is made by people like you. It allows you to view, edit and The operators claim the new lowed on those grouse proposals will have a benefi- use geographical data in a collaborative way from moors at any time of the cial landscape impact – which year. anywhere on Earth. There are also OpenCycleMap and is as well since the permission OpenPisteMap (I kid yee not). It's not just for geeks; at Stoke Hall runs to 2042. Any bird restrictions later in data can include details of pubs, postbox collection the year will be posted on times, MR posts; just about anything based around Please ask at the meeting if site, on web sites, and in loc- mapping. Updated within a few hours of Hurricane you want more details on any al climbing walls and retail Katrina it enabled aid vehicles to bypass damaged of this, or any other local or outlets. The on site notices bridges etc., something other maps and satnav national assess matters. are always bang up to date. devices didn't achieve for several days. Take a look. Look out for restrictions too Finally a word about car at the Roaches and crime. Beware. The BMC Ravensdale: every year is different. thanked the Police for the very successful campaign they ran last year. But some crime figures in the rur- Further south we have a meeting to review recent al area may be on the increase again: you can never proliferation of trees at , and are seek- be too careful. ing to revisit the longstanding situation at Willers- ley. ROACHES PEREGRINES 2009

Last year the old path up to Stoney West was by Dave Bishop cleared, and some longstanding routes revealed in their full glory. Am I the only person who went A meeting to discuss arrangements for future man- there? agement of the Peregrine nesting restriction at the Roaches was held at the National Park On landscape issues, the long awaited Court of Ap- (PDNPA) offices in November 2008. The meeting was peal hearing on Backdale is on 10 and 11 February attended by the PDNPA, Natural England (NE) the at the Royal Courts of Justice: a representative of the government agency with responsibility for advising BMC will be there to observe the proceedings. The on conservation issues, and the BMC. long running quarry dispute in sites various around The 2008 restrictions were largely observed and the / Nine Ladies is finally resolved – birds successfully reared and fledged their chicks, and the eco-warriors have gone. The BMC spoke to but many climbers felt the restrictions were onerous

3 © British Mountaineering Council 2009 and the BMC wanted to improve the process of the agreement on the RAD and websites, as well as agreeing the restrictions for 2009. through Area meetings. The meeting, chaired by the PDNPA, was frank, in- formative and positive from all perspectives and a 3. First egg laid (Mid March onward). staged process was agreed to manage the restriction if the birds nest in 2009. The substance of any agree- The birds’ behaviour ments will have to await the birds’ arrival and choice changes at this time and of site. they may become less toler- ant of disturbance. Any ex- The stages are:- isting activity that gives rise to an alarm call from the 1. Pre-emptive (Before end January 2009). birds will probably have to cease. On-site meetings will The BMC and PDNPA agreed to identify suitable sites be held to discuss any pro- to erect nesting platforms away from major climbing posed variations to the ini- areas. The BMC would help in the placement of these tial agreement and, if con- platforms. In December 08 however, three naturally sensus is reached, publi- suitable nest sites were identified without the need cised as above. for artificial platforms. Two of these are immediately useable and one requires some vegetation removal. 4. Fledging. The latter is situated within a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) and therefore the PDNPA has re- Once any chicks are ‘free-flying’ then the BMC will be quested permission from NE for us to do this work. informed and all restrictions removed. All three sites have been used by peregrines before, The success of this clear process depends upon at probably as hunting look-outs. These new sites do least three factors; what the birds choose to do; the not however, guarantee that they will be used and it subsequent on-site meetings and the integrity of the is likely they will return to the 2008 nest site. This is November agreement. This can only be judged when reinforced by the fact that the birds have been in and the birds nest in 2009 and the process is put into around the Upper Tier area throughout this winter. practice. We believe that with goodwill from all parties, as expressed in November, a reasonable and 2. Residence (As early as the beginning of February). workable agreement can result.

If the birds take up residence, an on-site meeting will Green Lane Groan be held between the PDNPA, the BMC, and an RSPB Officer to discuss and agree the extent and nature of By Henry Folkard any voluntary restrictions and the content and posi- tioning of on-site notices. Notices will be of two Lots of people have expressed concern about use of kinds. A general notice for public visitors (including public rights of way, principally by motorised climbers) placed at entrances to the estate which will vehicles, which is not sustainable, and which strays contain a legal reminder re: ‘reckless or wilful dis- onto adjoining land – to the detriment of the turbance’ and notices specific to climbers, placed landscape and the quiet enjoyment of other close to any restricted area, outlining the extent and legitimate users. nature of the agreed restriction only (with no refer- ence to the legal status of the birds). We all know this has become a major problem in the The PDNPA will frequently monitor the birds’ beha- Peak. What is happening about it, and where does the viour and call further on-site meetings if it is neces- BMC stand on the issue? sary to vary the agreement. Any party to the agree- ment can also request further meetings at any time Public Rights of Way (PRoW) are the legal should issues arise. The BMC will publicise details of responsibility of the Highways Authority (HA). In the

Peak Area Newsletter – Issue 5 Spring 2009 4 Peak District National Park there are seven such HAs. It all takes a very long time. The searches are In some other National Parks the National Park exhaustive, there are many challenges, and the Authority is also the HA, but not here. resource available to the HA (both experts and Within the National Park there are 2136.3 km of budgets) is limited. Footpaths, 293.3km of Bridleways, 29.53km of Byways / Restricted Byways and 545.8km of Unclassified That is not all. HAs, but also the National Park County Roads. All are PRoWs of one status or Authority, have statutory rights to impose Traffic another, as are Carriageways and several other Regulation Orders (TROs) in certain circumstances. categories. This also is an involved legal process. There are different sorts of TROs. It is held that a challenge in Different PRoWs have different status in law. Who the Courts to a TROs would be likely to succeed may use them legally is determined by that status. where alternative solutions – management Thus a footpath is what the name implies, a agreements for example – have not first been tried. bridleway may be used by pedestrians, horse riders The imposition of a temporary TROs generally brings and bicycles and so on. with it a requirement to Unfortunately the specific status undertake remedial work within is not clear on many PRoWs in 18 months. Difficult if you do not the Peak: they are simply have the cash. Issues of defined as non classified maintenance and safety upon a highways (NCH), or unclassified PRoW remain the responsibility of county roads. The situation the HA. These are not the becomes even more complex on responsibility of the National a way like the Long Causeway Park. Given the choice of repairing which has dual status – as a Chapelgate or gritting the roads byway open to all traffic (BOAT) what would you do? A principle in Yorkshire, and a NCH in which underpins much of the . Thus no one can say reluctance to impose TROs is the whether use of that way by maxim ‘once a right of way, motorised vehicles is, or is not always a right of way’. That said it legal, though clearly any such use of adjacent is sometimes asserted (but with what degree of moorland which is not part of the way is not legal. accuracy) that as a HA Derbyshire is reluctant to use The first issue to address therefore is determination the powers it has to make TROs. of the actual status of NCHs, and of Bridleways where that status is challenged by motor vehicle user So what is being done about a problem that can not groups because they believe the way to have be allowed to get worse? First, all HAs have had to vehicular rights. This is a complex legal matter which prepare a Rights of Way Improvement Plan (ROWIP) relies, inter alia, on historical records – things like which determines policies and priorities. You will the Enclosure Awards and Finance Acts – and for remember that an officer from Derbyshire County example the Highways Act 1980, Wildlife and Council attended a BMC Area meeting some months Countryside Act 1981, the Countryside and Rights of ago as part of the consultation process in formulating Way Act 1981, the Natural Environment and Rural the ROWIP. Communities Act 2006, and also on Common Law. The official record of status is something called a Second, Derbyshire, and other County Councils, are Definitive Map, and any modification to it is subject pushing ahead with determining the status of NCHs, to legal challenge by anyone who disagrees. The and settling claims on other ways. It’s a slow and matter is then resolved at a Public Inquiry, and painstaking process. ultimately through the Courts of Justice. Third, Derbyshire County Council and the National Park Authority working together and through the

5 © British Mountaineering Council 2009 Local Access Forum (LAF) and in consultation with upon the enjoyment of the National Park by our user groups, are making recommendations on 23 members we will not hesitate to say so, and to work priority ways where current levels of use are deemed with those authorities who have the power, and the to be unsustainable. This work started in Derbyshire duty, to address the difficulty, and to determine an and will ultimately progress with the other six HAs. effective sustainable and affordable solution. One key area is Abney Moor. The major exception to Calendar this progression relates to three ways out of Sheffield. First, on that part of Moss Road which lies There is a comprehensive calendar on the BMC within Derbyshire the status of the route as a website; this one covers stuff of mainly Peak Area bridleway is clear and enforcement action can be interest. If you have an item for inclusion contact us taken on illegal use. That is a Police matter. Second at [email protected]. on the Long Causeway a voluntary agreement with the main user groups operates which is largely, but February not 100%, successful. This is in essence no different 24 Peak Area meeting, 19:30 - P salter Arms (178 Psalter to other voluntary agreements that operate at Lane, Sheffield. Stanage with climbers, paragliders and so on. The 27 - 1 March, SHAFF (Sheffield Adventure Film Festival) essential difference perhaps is that the irresponsible 28 Chris Sharma lecture tour, The Showroom, Sheffield. March element of 4x4 and trail bike users is significant. On 1 Great British Grade Debate at SHAFF. the third way, Houndkirk, the National Park 1 Chris Sharma lecture tour, Manchester Climbing Centre, Authority, with Natural England and as it happens Manchester the Gas Board instigated a meeting towards the end 6-7 High Peak Marathon. of last year, to pressure the relevant HA – Sheffield 7 Climbing Works International Festival, Sheffield. City Council – to take appropriate action on 8 Submission deadline for Peak newsletter. unsustainable if legal use of the way, and 14 Climbing Works closed (BUCS bouldering event) enforcement action on illegal use. April 8 Peak Area newsletter published. BMC policy is to keep members informed generally 22 Peak Area meeting, 19:30 - The Grouse Inn, A625, Road. about what is happening on matters which affect 24 - 25 BMC AGM, Plas y Brenin. their quiet enjoyment of the National Park and its May landscape. Access volunteers give updates regularly 10 Submission deadline for Peak newsletter. at Area Meetings and through access reports. This 17 Eyam Half-marathon (400 metres cumulative ascent!). particular access officer is also a member, in his own 27 Peak Area newsletter published. right, of the Local Access Forum (whose meetings are June open to the public), so there is good coherence there. 10 Peak Area meeting, 20:30 - The Travellers Rest, It is a contentious issue, and different BMC members Quarnford, Buxton. will hold different views. We believe a right approach July is to seek the help of relevant user groups in 11 - 12 Cliffhanger, 10:30 - 18:30, Millhouses Park, Sheffield including British Bouldering Championships. understanding the problem as they see it, as well as August helping them to understand how other people see it, 1 - 16 BMC Alpine Meet at La Berade, Ecrins National Park, and with them to work out effective solutions. We France. believe strongly that the voluntary approach can have much to recommend it, and can be at least as effective and a great deal more flexible than any statutory endeavour - but that representative bodies do need to be able to take their constituency with them. We would not be terribly pleased if the Trail Riders Fellowship tried to dictate the BMC’s approach to bird restrictions without consulting us. But equally, where an activity has adverse impact

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