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Diets on Trial

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Diets on Trial Cover story It’s that time of year when we reach for the diet books – but DIETS which one? We asked nutrition experts to ON rank some popular plans. Donna Chisholm TRIAL reports on the results. DONNA CHISHOLM IS NORTH & SOUTH’S EDITOR-AT-LARGE. GETTY 32 | NORTH & SOUTH | FEBRUARY 2016 NORTH & SOUTH | FEBRUARY 2016 | 33 n 2007, best-selling American the US, which assigns a score of 1 to food writer Michael Pollan 100 based on the nutritional value of I distilled the results of nearly a the food. “We’ve seen remarkable re- decade of research on healthy eating. sults – some people losing 100lb [45kg] His findings formed the first seven simply by trading up choices in every words of his 10,000-word essay in the aisle.” And the supermarkets don’t New York Times Magazine: “Eat food. mind if sales of junk foods fall. Not too much. Mostly plants.” The “They’re agnostic as to what the shop- brevity of the message was deeply per buys, as long as the shopper buys ironic, really, given Pollan has made his something.” name writing books about food. The New Year is traditionally the time Of course, there’s more to it than that, we begin our fight back – again. We buy but actually not much. By “eat food”, the latest diet book, rejoin the gym and Pollan means the sort of stuff your regard that stalk of broccoli with re- great-great-grandma would recognise, newed respect. Or we may simply not the “food-like items” clogging the Google “best diet”. To save you the trou- middle aisles of the supermarket. ble of trawling the 359 million results It’s a mantra nutritionists have been that search returns, we asked experts repeating for many years now, but it’s Elaine Rush, professor of nutrition at basically dull and quickly lost in the the Auckland University of Technology, cacophony of claim and counter-claim and Sarah Hanrahan, dietitian at the from the next new fad-diet book. Deep Nutrition Foundation, to run the nutri- CORBIS down, we probably do get it – but that tional ruler over some of the most pop- National Geographic journalist and researcher Dan Buettner. doesn’t stop us searching for an alter- ular regimens, assessing them, among native that doesn’t centre on lentils, other things, for health, flexibility and legumes and more bloody beans. “stickability”. When the My Food Bag business be- Two came out tied for first place – the in an environment that subtly nudges gan in March 2013, for example, sending Mediterranean Diet, which you’ll know them to eat more plants, to eat a little four or five days’ worth of quality in- all about unless you’ve been living under US researcher less, to move every hour, to socialise, gredients and nutritionally sound a rock since the mid-1990s, and the less Dan Buettner and in a sense to live out their purpose, recipes into the homes of Auckland’s well-known Blue Zones Diet, the prod- and that’s a really important factor.” time-poor, health-conscious upper uct of work by National Geographic says there are But isn’t trying to modify the envi- middle-classes, it took, for those who journalist and researcher Dan Buettner, lessons we can ronments of the rest of the 21st-century could afford it at least, the guesswork based on the food and lifestyle traits of all learn from world a near-hopeless task as well? out of gastronomy. The recipes, designed the longest-lived people in the world. Buettner says no, and has the evidence by nutritionist and Masterchef winner In his first book, theNew York Times five longevity it’s possible. So-called Blue Zones Nadia Lim, were balanced, calorie- best-seller The Blue Zones: Lessons for hot spots he’s Projects have been introduced in 26 US counted and complete – including a Living Longer from the People Who’ve cities, which give Blue Zones certifi- vegetarian meal every week. With close ALAMY Lived the Longest, Buettner discussed identified around cation to schools, restaurants and food to $100 million in annual revenue and Best-selling US food writer Michael Pollan. the lessons we can all learn from five the world. stores which modify their policies and a subscriber base of almost 30,000 in longevity hot spots he’d identified layout in a way that encourages people New Zealand and Australia, it’s seen around the world: Sardinia, Italy; to increase their plant-food consump- spectacularly rapid growth. Okinawa, Japan; Loma Linda, California tion by 25 per cent. Some of the pro- Within months of the launch, how- how to cook them. ate more sugar, more salt, more fat, (where more than 30 per cent of the rice-centric diet produces the same re- jects have been running for six years, ever, it seemed the non-meat dish had But those who eat plants exclusively more calories, more variety,” he tells population are Seventh Day Adventists, sults. “In all cases, the theme is the same: with stunning results. Albert Lea, a city fallen out of favour; in response to client or, as Pollan urges, “mainly”, are still North & South from Connecticut. “Only who are encouraged to be vegetarian); real food, not too much, mostly plants.” of 17,000 people in Minnesota, reported feedback, the frequency of the vegetar- in a tiny minority, with only around in very, very recent years, from a geo- Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica; and In a follow-up volume released in a 40 per cent drop in healthcare costs, ian option was cut to once-fortnightly. two per cent of New Zealanders iden- logical or evolutionary perspective, has Ikaria, Greece. All five produced a high 2015, The Blue Zones Solution, Buettner and Spencer in Iowa a 25 per cent drop. We might know what’s better for us tifying as vegetarian. In 2013, we came our problem changed from having too rate of centenarians (about five per explains how to integrate the diets and Redondo Beach, Hermosa Beach and but, in this case, when it came to put- seventh in the OECD in a survey of little food and too much physical activ- 10,000) and suffered a fraction of the lifestyles of the zones into our own lives. Manhattan Beach in Los Angeles cred- ting our mouth where our money was, countries that ate the most meat. ity to having too little physical activity diseases that kill the rest of us – includ- “This is a paradigm shift in the way we ited the project with a 50 per cent drop it was pushing shiitake uphill. Part of the problem with our food and too much food. We simply haven’t ing cancer, heart disease and diabetes. think about health,” he says, from his in childhood obesity and a 20 per cent Three years on, Lim reckons the pro- choices, says world-leading American been able to catch up biologically. We Katz says the Blue Zones diets are as Minneapolis base. “For 70 or 80 years, reduction in smoking. veg message is finally getting more trac- diet and health expert Dr David Katz, crave sugar, we crave salt, we crave notable for their diversity as for what we’ve been told, ‘Do your exercise, eat It’s not about tackling kids’ school tion. In September, the brand launched founding director of the Yale-Griffin calories, we crave fat and we crave they share. In Loma Linda, they are ve- your vegetables, get out and get moving, lunches Jamie Oliver-style, according to a vegetarian bag, sales of which she says Prevention Research Centre, is that variety. And it used to be good to crave gans; in Costa Rica, the diet includes get away from the television set’, but we Buettner, but changing the environment. have “gone nuts – we’re stoked”. Many we’re fighting six million years of it, because getting it was hard. Now eggs, dairy and meat. In Ikaria and ignore all that. Research shows trying “Canteens are very hard to change, but of the buyers aren’t vegetarians, she evolution. getting it is easy.” Sardinia, locals practise variations on to modify behaviour is a near universal if you put vegetables at the front of the says, but simply want to include more “For most of that time, homo sapiens Katz invented the NuVal scoring the theme of Mediterranean diets. In failure. The reason people in the Blue line, as opposed to the end, the amount meat-free meals in their diet and learn and our predecessors benefited if we system now in 2600 supermarkets in Okinawa, a traditional plant-based, Zones live a long time is that they live of vegetables consumed by kids goes up 34 | NORTH & SOUTH | FEBRUARY 2016 NORTH & SOUTH | FEBRUARY 2016 | 35 GIANLUCA COLLA/NATIONALGIANLUCA GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY GETTY A 100-year-old man working in a field in the “Blue Zone” of the Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica. A 100-year-old woman lifts weights each morning in Loma Linda, California. 20 per cent.” Blue Zones Project schools answer is knowing that animal prod- n a nod to the cuisine of the physical activity and fine motor skills!” – he fears Pollard’s “Eat food. Not too have removed junk food, sweets and soft ucts, meat in particular, are like radi- centenarians of Okinawa, North We order two of the five vegetable much. Mostly plants” mantra is hard to drinks. “It’s making the whole food ation. We know that eating a lot of it & South invited nutritionists dishes: the broccoli and eggplant.
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