AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE EXITS BOUCHERON/2 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 7, 2004 • $2.00

WWDFRIDAY ▲ Today, the first of a three- Beauty scent trilogy from Avon. For more, see page 6. Garden Of Eden NEW YORK — Estée Lauder turned back to the Eden Project, an English conservatory, to glean proprietary notes for its newest scent, Beyond Paradise for Men. It had done the same last year for the women’s version. Beyond Paradise for Men will be launched in August, and it could do upward of $25 million at retail in its first year in the U.S. For more, see page 4.

Fashion Boom: Luxury Shoppers Nourish Strong Comp-Sales By Ross Tucker fashions in stores — and shoppers temperatures in key markets. In NEW YORK — Forget that the stock are gobbling them up. fact, the apparel sector has reported market fell 69 points on Thursday Clothing and shoes were a bright dramatic growth — $20 billion on a and that April comparable-store spot in an otherwise tepid April, year-over-year basis — so it isn’t sales were down from March. There which was chilled by an early surprising that comps flexed muscle are luxury goods and colorful Easter as well as abnormally low See High, Page 14 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BRYN KENNY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 WWDFRIDAY Azagury-Partridge Leaves Gucci’s Flock Beauty

By Miles Socha Solange the house, founded in 1858, has a GENERAL Azagury- rich archive and plenty of fresh Same-store sales for major retailers eased back in April, as cooler PARIS — In the first high-profile designs “in its drawers” to sus- Partridge temperatures in key markets tempered consumer spending. designer exit of the post-Tom tain it in the coming months. 1 and Dom era at Gucci Group, Although Boucheron has pre- Former Gucci Group executive Brian Blake is expected to be named today Boucheron creative director sented new collections of fine 2 as worldwide president and chief operating officer of Burberry. Solange Azagury-Partridge said jewelry during the last two July Solange Azagury-Partridge said she’s leaving today as creative director of Thursday she’s leaving the jew- couture seasons with extrava- elry, watch and fragrance house. gant parties in the Place Ven- 2 Boucheron, the jewelry, watch and fragrance firm, a unit of Gucci Group. “It’s been three roller-coaster, dôme, no event is planned this BEAUTY: Estée Lauder is launching a companion to its 2003 blockbuster amazing years,” the London-based summer, he noted. 4 fragrance with a men’s scent called Beyond Paradise for Men. designer told WWD. “But there Azagury-Partridge’s depar- was another change happening ture is the latest blow to a brand SUZY: Brad Pitt and his Achilles’ heel...Kitchen Confidential on the Frederick here, and I just thought it was that has been struggling. 16 Law Olmsted Awards...The Multilingual Paul McCartney. the right time for me to change Earlier this year, Gucci Group Obituary ...... 9 as well and go back home.” scotched an ambitious retail roll- Azagury-Partridge was allud- out, opening a Bottega Veneta Classified Advertisements...... 15 ing to the recent exits of creative flagship in Manhattan in a Fifth To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is director Tom Ford and chief exec- Avenue space originally ear- [email protected], using the individual’s name. utive Domenico De Sole, and the marked for Boucheron. Mean- appointment last month of Chris- while, year-old shops in Honolulu WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 tian Bedos, the fourth chief exec- Madonna, Kate Moss and Sir and San Francisco were shut- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 187, NO. 96. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional utive at Boucheron since it was Elton John come in search of her tered, which contributed to a $12 issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three acquired in 2000 as part of the quirky, bright baubles. million restructuring charge at additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Italian firm’s acquisitions spree. “It’s a very healthy little Gucci in the fourth quarter. As of West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Azagury-Partridge plans to shop,” she said. She declined to March 31, there were 25 Bouch- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior take a long holiday and then de- divulge sales figures, but noted, eron locations. At one time, Gucci Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- vote her energies to her signa- “I’m up 100 percent on last year.” Group had envisioned a network President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration ture business, based out of the Bedos, who started at Bouch- of 60 to 65 locations by 2005. No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. boutique she established in 1995 eron Monday, said he hasn’t The retrenchment has fueled POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. in London’s Notting Hill neigh- made a decision regarding suc- speculation Boucheron may be FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is borhood, where the likes of cession. In the interim, he said Continued on page 9 required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED Burberry Appoints Brian Blake MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART across all business disciplines and in regions WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED By Samantha Conti TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE such as Asia. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. LONDON — Burberry today will name Brian As reported, Blake was part of Domenico De Blake as worldwide president and chief operat- Sole’s original team at Gucci, where he worked ing officer, effective June 1. for 17 years. He left the Italian company last The appointment confirms a WWD report on month along with De Sole and creative director Monday. Tom Ford. Most recently, he was executive vice In Brief Blake, 48, will replace Tom O’Neill, who president of Gucci Group, president and ceo of stepped down last month to become chief execu- Gucci Group timepieces worldwide, as well as ● tive officer of Harry Winston. Blake will report head of the jewelry house Boucheron. TRADING UP: Wendy Wieland-Martin, 50, has been promoted to Rose Marie Bravo, Burberry’s ceo. Before that, Blake served as president and to the new post of vice president of international trade services At Burberry, Blake’s responsibilities will in- ceo of the Gucci division worldwide, and presi- at Kellwood Co. Wieland-Martin, who had been director of trade clude global oversight of the company’s whole- dent and ceo of Gucci America, a post he took services, will oversee custom and trade compliance and govern- sale, retail, licensing and manufacturing opera- over after De Sole was promoted to ceo of the ment relations for the firm. She reports to Tom Austin, president tions. He also will be a member of Burberry’s entire group. Before joining Gucci, Blake spent of Kellwood’s operating services division, who said, “Her ex- executive committee, along with Bravo and a decade at Lord & Taylor in merchandising and pertise in international trade will help strengthen our presence chief financial officer Stacey Cartwright. store management positions. in international markets.” “I look forward to working with Brian to take “It is exciting for me to have the opportunity ● Burberry to its next level, explore new growth to work with Rose Marie Bravo and the team to FLUX AT FERRE: Now that IT Holding chief Tonino Perna has initiatives and maximize the tremendous poten- continue the momentum and challenge the busi- sold Romeo Gigli and Gentry Portofino, he has more time to ded- tial that this business represents,” said Bravo in ness through its next phases of growth and de- icate to his group’s other brands, namely Gianfranco Ferré. An a statement, pointing to Blake’s experience velopment,” Blake said. IT Holding spokeswoman said Perna would take a more active role in the day-to-day managing of Ferré. “Formally, nothing has changed. Tonino Perna has always been involved in the running of Ferré, but he wants to dedicate more time to its develop- ment,” the spokeswoman said. As for Ferré’s current chief exec- utive officer, Enrico Mambelli, the spokeswoman said it’s possi- De Beers, Iman Marriage Ends in Divorce ble that in the future, Mambelli’s role could slightly change. A Ferré spokeswoman, however, said everything was status quo with Mambelli’s position and he would be attending the official By Marc Karimzadeh Iman Beers Group and the De Beers LV joint venture have repeatedly de- opening of the new Ferré boutique in New York next week. NEW YORK — De Beers LV and nied the claims. ● Iman have parted ways. In a statement, Survival sug- SQUINTING SALES: Eyewear group De Rigo’s first-quarter The contract between the gested Iman quit due to its cam- sales dropped slightly to 139.2 million euros from 139.9 million Somalian-born businesswoman paign to make her end her associ- euros a year ago. In dollars, sales were $174.2 million versus and model and the diamond re- ation with the diamond firm. $150.2 million last year. Figures have been converted to dollars tail venture between LVMH “We are thrilled about this at average exchange for the corresponding quarters. The compa- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton new development. We have ny said sales grew 6.1 percent on a comparable basis, meaning and the De Beers Group ex- been campaigning solidly results of the now defunct Eyewear International Distribution pired last month and will not be around this issue for years, and joint venture with Prada are stripped out of first-quarter 2003 renegotiated. are very pleased that Iman will figures. Strong sales growth in markets such as the far east and “We had a two-year contract, no longer be representing De some European countries such as France, Greece, Germany and which was over in April, and the Beers,” said Stephen Corry, Spain drove wholesale sales up 1.9 percent for the quarter. new advertising strategy for the Survival’s director. Retail sales in the first quarter rose 5.7 percent on growth at De company is not to use a celebri- While Iman couldn’t be Rigo’s U.K. retail chain Dollond & Aitchison and Spanish chain ty,” a De Beers LV spokeswoman reached for comment, the De General Optica. said Thursday. “Most companies Beers LV spokeswoman said: ● don’t use the same celebrities “Survival has been saying over MOVES AT JONES: Jones Apparel Group Inc. has named Andy for long periods of time.” the past two years that Iman’s Cohen group president of its L.E.I. and Energie divisions, suc- The relationship was filled contract was in jeopardy. The ceeding Spencer Rosenheck, who left the company. Most recent- with controversy from the start. truth is that the Bushmen issue ly, Cohen was president of Energie, and before that, president of Shortly before the first De Beers has nothing whatsoever to do Liz Claiborne’s Shelli Segal division. Cohen reports to Isaac LV boutique opened on over Iman’s with the phrase: with diamonds or De Beers LV. Dabah, group chief executive officer of the Polo Jeans Co., London’s Piccadilly in 2001, “The Bushmen Aren’t Forever.” And Iman investigated the com- Gloria Vanderbilt and L.E.I. divisions of Jones. In a related Survival International, a non- Survival claims diamond min- pany thoroughly before she ever move, Peter Caminiti was named president of sales for L.E.I., re- governmental organization ing is related to the relocation of agreed to be our style icon and porting to Cohen. Most recently, Caminiti has been vice presi- based in London, plastered an Bushmen in Botswana’s Central was very comfortable with being dent of sales for L.E.I. image of a Kalahari Bushwoman Kalahari Game Reserve. De associated with the company.” © ARAMIS INC. IE TSAGETGAME. GREAT IT’S A LIFE. THE FRAGRANCEFORMEN – ANDRE AGASSI 4 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 The Beauty Report Lauder to Return to Paradise NEW YORK — Estée Lauder is looking to revisit Paradise this fall with its latest men’s scent. Beyond Paradise for Men, a companion to Lauder’s 2003 blockbuster women’s entry, will bow in August. The women’s scent is said to have exceeded sales of $60 million at retail in the U.S. and $100 million at re- tail globally its first year on counter, and while Lauder executives wouldn’t comment on projected sales vol- umes, executives say they are hoping for a similar suc- cess with the men’s scent. Industry sources estimate Lauder is looking for a volume of more than $25 mil- lion at retail in the U.S. with the juice. The men’s and women’s scents are primarily geared at consumers in the 18-to-34 age group, part of the com- pany’s continuing goal of attracting edgier consumers to the 59-year-old Lauder brand, noted Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, the group president at Lauder who oversees the Estée Lauder brand. “When we start- ed this project, our vision was to bring a new genera- tion to the counter,” he said. According to Daniel Annese, vice president of mar- keting, North America for Estée Lauder, the brand met that goal with the women’s juice — and the pieces of the puzzle are in place to achieve a similar goal with the men’s scent, he emphasized. “Our market research confirms that 40 percent of the consumers [who pur- chased the women’s fragrance] were under 30, and 66 percent of those who bought the fragrance in its first four months [on counter] had never purchased an Estée Lauder [branded] fragrance. With the men’s fra- grance, we are out to outdo ourselves again.” Janet Cook, president of Estée Lauder North The Beyond Paradise for Men ad. America, was among those who urged the launch of the men’s scent to take advantage of the gains established that are grown in specially designed biomes. Lauder had be bottled in containers in hues of blue and green. by the women’s. Another staunch advocate was one of also obtained ingredients for the women’s juice from the The brand has also signed Jon Passavant, the model the scent’s co-creators, Evelyn Lauder. conservatory, and has a deal with the conservatory to who had served as the face of Intuition for Men, to a “The response to Beyond Paradise was so positive develop additional ingredients from that source. spokesman deal, only the second time the Estée Lauder that we felt we should introduce a companion as soon The scent, developed by Khoury and Lauder in part- brand has had an official male spokesman. The first occa- as possible,” said Lauder, who is senior corporate vice nership with Quest International, opens with notes of sion was with actor Bruce Boxleitner in the late Eighties. president of the Estée Lauder Cos., adding that the fra- Eden’s Mist, a watery, fresh ingredient captured from Passavant will begin appearing in Beyond Paradise grance is classified as a prismatic wood and comprises the biome; jaboticaba fruit, a tart Brazilian ingredient; for Men’s print advertising, which was overseen by a number of unique notes that are proprietary to Eden Buchu, a green, slightly citrus element, and an in- Aerin Lauder, the brand’s global vice president of ad- Lauder. “This mix is so unusual that your nose doesn’t gredient the team called the Wave Accord: a blend of vertising. The first placement is expected in August, al- pick out specific ingredients; it simply registers as a mint, mandarin and mousse de mer. The heart of the though the bulk of the print advertising will begin in sensual, yet comforting, fragrance.” fragrance is a Mediterranean Accord, a blend of laven- September magazines. While TV has been used for Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fra- der, Provence sage, tarragon and thyme absolute, and women’s, it is not currently planned for men’s, although grance worldwide for Estée Lauder, concurred, saying cistus, a balsamic woody-smelling element. The dry- the brand is planning to run TV ads this fall promoting the aim was to use exotic ingredients to formulate the down is made up of Eden Vetiver and golden Melaleuca the women’s juice. Passavant also was the face of juice, just as was done with the women’s version. To Bark, both captured from the Eden Project’s biomes, Intuition for Men, launched two years ago. While none achieve this goal, the team turned back to the Eden and beechwood, oakmoss and Indonesian patchouli, all of the executives would comment on numbers, industry Project, a Cornwall, England-based conservatory home to add richness. Eden’s Mist and Melaleuca Bark were sources estimated $8 million to $10 million would be to more than 100,000 types of exotic plants and flowers also used in the women’s juice. spent on advertising and promotion for the men’s scent But while the men’s scent shares a few el- in its first year on counter. ements with the women’s, it is not intended “We wanted to revisit the fantasy elements we ex- to be its twin, said Peter Lichtenthal, senior plored with the women’s scent,” said Noel Robinson, vice president of global marketing for Estée vice president of global fragrance marketing for Estée Lauder. “Beyond Paradise exceeded all of Lauder. And because about half of all men’s scents are our expectations — not since Pleasures have actually purchased by women, noted Annese, the cam- we hit the jackpot the way that we have in paign will be targeted at men and women. The print this scent,” he said. “But while we wanted to campaign will be the largest the brand has ever done expand the message, our primary goal was to in the men’s category, he said, and will appear in come up with a leading men’s fragrance that Sports Illustrated, ESPN and Maxim. could also stand on its own.” Cinema advertising — which the brand employed Beyond Paradise Men will be available in for the women’s launch last year — will be used again, two sizes of eau de toilette spray, 1.7 oz. and this time promoting both juices, and radio is also 3.4 oz., for $49.50 and $69.50, respectively; a planned, noted Annese. 3.4-oz. After Shave Balm, $39.50, and a 3.4-oz. Sampling will be a big part of the campaign, with After Shave splash, also $39.50. upward of 25 million scented strips over a five-month The scent’s bottle mirrors the ombre rain- period planned. The scent will be available in Lauder’s bow hues of the women’s, although Beyond 2,200 U.S. department and specialty stores; like the Paradise Men’s colors — deep blue, purple, women’s juice, it will be available at Lauder counters green and red — are richer than the pastels and at the fragrance bar. of its feminine counterpart. Ancillaries will — Julie Naughton Von Berg to Enter the Men’s Fragrance Market NEW YORK — Von Berg Professional Cosmetics, a two- women’s entries, Decadence and Sheer Decadence, were year-old Munich-based beauty marketer, will introduce launched in the fall and spring, respectively. Givaudan its first men’s fragrance, a scent called Absolute has blended all three of the scents. Decadence, next month. Peter von Berg founded the company in 2002. Von Absolute Decadence, a mix of citrus, lavender and Berg, who was originally in the medical field, crossed woody notes, is set to bow at Nordstrom and Burdines- over into the beauty industry after entering the microder- Macy’s in the U.S. on June 1, and in Germany and mabrasion arena in Europe. Von Berg, self-described as Canada in July. The fragrance is then due to roll out to a cosmeceuticals firm, also markets a treatment collec- the rest of Europe and to additional U.S. retail chains in tion and color cosmetics with skin care benefits. the fall, eventually reaching 500 U.S. doors, including The company’s U.S. arm, based in Naples, Fla., is pro- Sephora, Macy’s West and Parisians. jected to have total revenues of $10.5 million this year. It’s Von Berg’s third fragrance — the company’s two — Matthew W. Evans WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 5

Perricone, the Retailer Arden Starts Its Engines NEW YORK — Elizabeth Arden is the latest beauty company to make it to the stock car starting gate in an ef- fort to pep up a venerable brand — in Arden’s case, Halston Z-14. Racing champion Jeff Gordon, a four-time winner of the National Association of Stock Car Auto Racing, or NASCAR, championship stock car race, signed a deal Thursday to be the face of the 28-year-old fragrance, said E. Scott Beattie, chairman and chief executive officer of Elizabeth Arden. The contract is for three years, noted Lauren Mennella, vice president of prestige fragrances, in a telephone in- terview with WWD Thursday morning. While Arden executives refused Jeff Gordon to talk about financial terms of the deal, industry sources estimated that Arden will spend at least $3 mil- lion over the life of the contract. Industry sources also estimated that the Halston Z-14 scent does about $10 million at retail annually. Beattie isn’t the first to realize the appeal of a racing hero. Rival L’Oréal USA’s European Designer Fragrances division also uses the strategy to promote its classic Drakkar Noir scent, signing Dale Earnhardt Jr. two years ago to front the fragrance. According to Mennella, NASCAR associations “clearly have a power- ful impact” on product sales. A NASCAR research study found that race fans are three times more likely to try and purchase products from companies that align them- selves with racing and race car drivers. It is estimated that NASCAR merchandise alone racks up sales of more than $1.3 billion annually. Mennella said that Gordon’s “universal appeal” will draw in “a new generation of users.” “Jeff is one of the most accomplished drivers around,” said Mennella. “His sophistication fits perfectly with the upscale luxury her- itage of this fragrance. Like Halston Z-14, Jeff is daring and bold. We feel that he will open up a whole new audience for the brand. We see this as a new chapter for the brand.” A rendering of Perricone’s planned store. The intention of the new campaign is to appeal to men 35-plus. “We hope we will get both older and younger consumers, but that is our By Pete Born cells and ultimately skin cells, forming what he target age group,” she noted. The first ads will begin appearing in calls a “brain-beauty connection.” According to February 2005, to coincide with the start of the Nextel Cup Racing sea- NEW YORK — Nicholas Perricone, arguably the Perricone, neuropeptides control flow of blood to son at Daytona Beach, Fla., she said. most widely known of the superstar dermatolo- the skin, theoretically providing a glow. While Mennella wouldn’t comment on the projected ad spending — in- gists to enter the skin care business, has his sights A Neuropeptide Facial Serum Prep, priced at dustry sources estimated that it will be at least what L’Oréal spends on its set on the next plateau: Madison Avenue retailing. $175 for 6 oz., is being launched, and two more Earnhardt/Drakkar Noir ads, or an estimated $4 million or more — she But when the 2,100-square-foot store opens products in the series — a contour cream and an noted that Arden will make “a significant investment” in the campaign. in early September after Labor Day, it will not eye product — will be introduced in conjunction “We will be doing a huge variety of different things, including na- be the typical exercise in shop-keeping. with the debut of the Madison Avenue flagship. tional print advertising, special-edition packaging integrating Jeff, as Perricone has been viewed, at least among the In addition to his Web site and a fledgling for- well as in-store displays featuring his image,” she said. Sales promo- dermatologists, as the pioneer in studying how eign distribution, Perricone distributes his line tions with collectible items and a consumer sweepstakes are on tap as inflammation interrelates with aging. He has through about 200 U.S. doors, the latest being well, she said. An extensive sampling campaign, with upward of one authored three books on his theories and the Bloomingdale’s new SoHo location. Perricone million scented pieces, is planned. But this sampling effort will kick off fourth, titled “The Perricone Promise,” is due also does a strong business with Sephora, where at rather unusual venues: racetracks around the country. “We want to out in October. He also conducts TV lectures the brand ranks number one among clinical skin sample this where Jeff’s fans are,” said Mennella. “There’s no place over the Public Broadcasting System, having care lines, according to Betsy Olum, senior vice more logical than the track for that purpose.” done three so far. His approach, therefore, is far president of marketing for Sephora USA. Gordon will be featured in a new marketing campaign currently from traditional. The two highest-grossing Sephora doors for being devised by the brand’s marketing team. According to Mennella, Perricone, who graduated from Yale Medical Perricone’s products are in San Francisco and the mix will include the consumer sweepstakes, print advertising featur- School and holds close to 30 U.S. Boston, where the retailer has ing Gordon and sales promotions with collectible premiums. patents stemming from his re- built shop-in-shop installations “I love wearing Halston Z-14 because it’s a classic American fra- search with at least another 14 for the brand. “Perricone re- grance that’s sensual, warm, earthy and truly distinctive,” said Gordon in pending, sees himself as a scien- mains a top-performing brand at a statement. “The relationship with Z-14 is especially significant consid- tist and an educator, as well as a Sephora and [it is] one of our ering that 2005 will be the 14th year of my NASCAR racing career.” doctor. He views the quest for most productive performers,” Halston Z-14, a spicy juice with a bottle designed by jewelry designer beauty as a three-tiered pursuit, said Olum. “We expect continued and former Halston model Elsa Peretti, was originally released in 1976. consisting of internal and exter- growth from the brand, based on — Julie Naughton nal factors. The Perricone innovative new products, and an method boils down to manipula- ongoing loyal client following. tion of diet, application of prop- “The Perricone regimen er nutrients and exercise and starter kit we developed with the external application of high- [Perricone] continues to be a potency and sometimes high- top seller, allowing new Perri- priced cosmeceutical products. cone clients to easily experi- PHOTO BY LAUREN FLEISHMAN LAUREN PHOTO BY “The future is that we’ve got Marcie Krempel, Nicholas Perricone ence the brand’s core regimen. CLEAR THE WAY to provide a true and real serv- and Lynda Berkowitz. The innovative new Neuro- ice,” Perricone said in a recent peptide product has sold very interview. “Beauty is a three-tiered program, or four- well, and the core regimen ‘power products’ — CREED FRAGRANCES’ tiered. It’s what you eat, it’s taking supplements, nu- Face Firming Activator, Concentrative Restorative tritional drinks; it’s giving topicals. And you have to Cream and ALA Eye Complex — continue to be LIQUIDATION SALE teach people lifestyle changes. To truly be a beauty [among our company’s] top sellers.” company of the future, you’ve got to be able to pro- The new flagship, located at 791 Madison vide what really works,” he said, emphasizing that Avenue at 67th Street, is being portrayed by his prescription is a highly integrated package. Perricone and his executives as a library and in- Perricone’s products can be highly advanced formation center as much as a store selling his 50% OFF and steeply priced, as in the recently launched cosmeceuticals. It is designed as an information (CHEAPER THAN THE INTERNET) Neuropeptide category of facial skin care products. springboard to advance Perricone’s philosophy A 2-oz. bottle of Neuropeptide Facial Conformer, and method, which the doctor calls the Perri- designed to decrease the appearance of lines and cone Prescription. 212-228-1732 wrinkles, retails for $575 a bottle. Neuropeptides According to Marcie J. Krempel, executive vice 9 Bond Street (at Lafayette) are tiny strings of amino acids that develop brain Continued on page 8 680 Madison Avenue (at 61st) 897 Madison Avenue (at 73rd) 6 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 The Beauty Report

A print ad for the Today fragrance featuring Salma Hayek and the new look of Avon Color cosmetics.

Avon Delivers Fresh Twists NEW YORK — With 118 years of practice, Avon Products you don’t like compromises,” according to Avon promo- Inc. has demonstrated an aptitude for reinventing itself. tional materials. The new Perfect Wear Longlasting mas- Changes enacted over the past four years are being cara that also lengthens, is a mind-reader in that it fulfills credited for last week’s noteworthy financial report — in “needs of your hectic, busy lifestyle.” which Avon’s first-quarter earnings increased 49.7 percent Redefining itself in other areas, Avon plans to unveil over the year-ago period, and yearlong projections were its priciest fragrance this fall. The white floral scent is ac- revised upward. tually the first of a trilogy named Today, Tomorrow, The increased focus on a sales-leadership program for Always, that will be launched in three parts in October, associates, a shift to make beauty categories a bigger per- February and May, respectively. Each is priced $29.50. centage of sales and the launch of Mark, a brand for young Until now, Avon’s most expensive scent was $28. “We want- women, all helped strengthen the performance of the ed to take it a step further,” said Scalamandre, who de- world’s largest direct-selling beauty company. scribes the fragrances as “a personal trilogy of love.” Part Avon executives are now fine-tuning a slate of initia- I reflects the love a woman has for herself; part II, a ro- tives for the fourth quarter, including the relaunch of the mantic love or love that is shared; and part III, represents Avon Color cosmetics line, a redesign of the sales love that she creates. The scents, all designed by brochure and the introduction of a promotional and ad- Firmenich, come in different shaped glass bottles, but vertising campaign starring actress Salma Hayek, to keep share a cap. Beginning in October, the scents will be sup- its marketing fresh. ported with print and TV advertising, featuring Hayek. William Susetka, president of global marketing at Avon, While it already has a $1 billion fragrance business, said emphasis remains on global growth, increasing the this is the first time Avon is advertising the category. share of beauty sales, and the expansion of the sales-lead- According to Avon’s annual report, Treselle, a scent intro- ership model to markets beyond the U.S., starting with the duced last October, brought in global sales of $52 million. U.K. “The concept of leadership gives representatives Today, the first in the trilogy, is expected to at least match more earnings opportunities,” noted Susetka. Of the Bob Briddon, Jill Scalamandre that, industry sources believe. 650,000 U.S. reps, 380,000 are now in leadership roles. The and William Susetka. Beyond appearing in advertising, Scalamandre stressed model gives representatives a financial incentive to re- CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY that Hayek is playing a partnership role at Avon, including cruit and train other representatives. “Our reps are recruiting other reps for us to lending her voice to its new foundation to fight domestic abuse. “She wanted to be a have more coverage of our products,” he added. partner. She believes in our company values,” she said. “She [Hayek] thinks of women Avon, which also sells jewelry and clothing, has been heavily developing its domi- as ‘divine creatures.’” In a promotional video for Avon, Hayek recounts a personal nant beauty segments, because “there are more loyal customers in beauty and it is a story of a family she knew growing up in Mexico that was supported on the mother’s category that does well in a service model,” explained Susetka. Avon earnings. In 2003, Avon’s net sales rose 10 percent to $6.8 billion, with beauty outpacing total To make its primary sales tool more visually appealing, Avon’s upgraded growth at 15 percent. From 61 percent some four years ago, beauty now accounts for brochure has a larger page size, modernized design and stronger use of color. Hayek 67 percent of sales, or $4.5 billion, noted Susetka. In the first quarter of 2004, net sales will appear on the cover and throughout its pages, noted Briddon. grew 19 percent to $1.75 billion, with beauty categories up 23 percent. “A big driver Meanwhile, the Anew Clinical franchise will unleash the latest in a series of at- has been skin care,” noted Susetka. Avon, he added, is the second-best selling skin home dermatologist-like treatments with Anew Clinical Deep Crease Concentrate, care brand in the U.S. after Procter & Gamble’s Olay. He suggested that a new R&D said to provide both facial line relaxing and line filling benefits. [See related story, facility in Suffern, N.Y., that will be operational in 2005 and is on the site of the origi- this page.] nal plant opened in 1897, will help keep Avon competitive in product development. “We continue to put the brand into new places,” Susetka enthused. “Direct selling Worldwide, Avon’s business in Eastern and Central Europe is developing ahead of is strong and getting stronger.” schedule and should hit $1 billion in the near future. Russia has been particularly — Laura Klepacki strong with sales expected at $400 million this year. In Asia, China continues to be a dominant region with sales climbing 25 to 30 percent, and the company recently opened Vietnam. Turkey has also been a hot market. Bob Briddon, group vice presi- dent, North American marketing, added that Avon has not only been expanding geo- graphically, but making existing businesses more productive. Sales in Latin America Avon’s Fourth At-Home Treatment grew 17 percent in the first quarter. Jill Scalamandre, group vice president, global marketing at Avon, remarked that NEW YORK — Avon wants to prevent another trip to the dermatologist. Avon, with 4.4 million sales associates worldwide, has an “incredible reach.” She Under its Anew Clinical division, the company has already in- added that two out of five women globally, purchased an Avon product in 2003. The troduced three products intended to deliver results typically asso- brand, she said continues to be built, “on the power of personal relationship.” ciated with professional treatments — Line and Wrinkle Corrector, Making things personal has been central in the makeover of Avon Color, Avon’s 2-Step Facial Peel and Micro-Exfoliant. Line and Wrinkle core cosmetics brand with sales of $1 billion. Packaging is being softened, from mini- Corrector, the debut item in the line, has been available since malist, straight-line components in blue and white to curvy compacts and rounded September 2003 and according to Avon reports, has reaped sales lipstick tubes in cosmic blue, a midnight blue metallic shade. A new logo — a trun- of $75 million. cated A — is also being applied. Additionally, “intuitive technology” is being intro- Now it is ready to add a dual benefit item, that claims to relax duced to products throughout the line, with the intention of providing women prod- facial lines like a Botox treatment while filling deep lines like ucts that will deliver customized results. “This is to allow a woman to show her own Restylane. Anew Clinical Deep Crease Concentrate with Bo- unique beauty,” said Scalamandre. Hylurox will be available beginning in October. A 30-ml. bottle is While some of the enhancements are chemical, others are psychological. $32. Recommended usage is twice a day. The key in- Deep Crease NailWear nail enamel has a self-adjusting conditioner to add moisture where need- gredient, By-Hylurox, is a blend of natural, active in- Concentrate ed and True Color Powder Blush has a “self-liquefying complex” that blends in with gredients, according to Avon. The launch will be sup- the color of the wearer’s skin. Whereas the new My Lip Miracle lipstick is “intuitive” ported with TV and print advertising, and sampling.

in that it provides what Avon says women want — a host of benefits, such as long- — L.K. JOHN AQUINO PRODUCT PHOTOS BY wear, moisturization, shine and color. “It actually reads your mind and understands WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 7

CHANEL ENDOWMENT: Chanel has donated $1.5 million to New York- N.J. ShopRite Examines Color TOP NOTES Presbyterian Hospital, an endowment that will establish the Chanel Prize for Achievement in The new ShopRite in Lawrenceville, N.J. Obstetrics and Gynecology at New York-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell Medical Center. Additionally, the grant will support overarching clinical programs in the obstetrics and gynecology department, according to a hospital spokeswoman. Honors for outstanding achievement in obstetrics and gynecology will be presented at a public lecture and luncheon later this year, where recipients — who will be selected by a committee, including the obstetrics and gynecology department chairman, a Chanel representative and leading physicians and researchers in the field — will deliver presentations on their clinical and research work. In addition to the endowment, Chanel will donate gift bags containing Chanel cosmetics, skin care products and brochures on medical and infant care to all women who give birth at New York-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell. Some 6,000 babies are born there each year.

LAWRENCEVILLE, N.J. — Supermarkets have always beauty market, excluding Wal-Mart. Still, for many struggled with the balance between selling groceries manufacturers, food chains represent huge growth op- and grooming. portunities. Revlon is rolling out its Revlon Express And with discounters Wal-Mart and Target and fixture to help food chains get deeper into the business club stores such as Costco and B.J.’s taking a bigger and companies such as Markwins are also targeting the bite out of grocery sales, supermarkets are starting to food channel. Elizabeth Arden has just added its reevaluate departments — including cosmetics. Elizabeth Taylor cosmetics line in Albertson’s. A newly opened ShopRite store here demon- Still, the issue weighs on the potential negative Susan Duffy and Arie Kopelman of Chanel with Sloan Barnett, strates where owner Wakefern Corp. weighs in on the image impact to color cosmetics brands that widely Dr. Frank Chervenak and Dr. Herbert Pardes of New York- debate. While the store spans 100,000 square feet and distribute in food stores, not the most glamorous of Presbyterian Hospital. has everything from a pharmacy to a huge kosher de- shopping venues. Revlon which has been developing partment and a boulangerie, it has a minuscule cos- edited sections of best selling items for supermarkets, TOP OF THE LIST: L’Oréal chairman and chief executive officer metics department. essentially to serve as a convenience shop, has hesi- Lindsay Owen-Jones was the highest-paid executive heading a A broker familiar with ShopRite said the company tated to step into the burgeoning dollar store market. firm listed on the CAC 40 index of French industrial companies has studied the productivity of every stockkeeping While he didn’t directly address the image compo- last year, according to a ranking published in Le Figaro unit in the store. The result is that ShopRite can nent, earlier this year Revlon executive vice presi- newspaper Thursday. Owen-Jones’ 2003 salary weighed in at $8 achieve optimal cosmetics sales with a tightly edited dent of sales, Paul Murphy said, “extension into a million at current exchange rates, or 6.6 million euros. assortment. It is a vastly different strategy than that group of retailers like dollar stores really needs to be of a four-year-old Wegmans thought out. If all you’re doing CIRCUS LOOKS: Bumble and bumble and MAC Cosmetics across the street, where there is is cannibalizing your current teamed up behind the scenes at the premier party for Cirque du a beauty department rivaling business with your heritage re- Soleil’s “Alegria” in New York Thursday night. Bumble stylist any drugstore chain. Wegmans Critical Mass tailers, then it will probably add Laurent Philippon and MAC senior makeup artist Patrick Eichler even merchandises L’Oréal less contribution and that each led teams that created hair and makeup looks for some 85 mascara at checkout. By Faye Brookman wouldn’t necessarily be the best performers who attended the soiree, which followed the opening Area customers certainly have thing to do.” night performance of the show on Randall’s Island. It was the a big choice when it comes to Supermarkets have certain- second year the Estée Lauder-owned brands have created looks food, clothing and beauty needs. The ShopRite and ly realized the dollars in skin, hair and bath. While for Cirque du Soleil’s premier party in New York. Wegmans here join Target, Sam’s Club, Wal-Mart and ShopRite limits cosmetics, the hair and skin care Kohl’s in this cluster of chain stores located off busy departments are massive. ShopRite has every sham- ZIRH APPOINTMENT: Zirh International has named Tim Greene highway Route 1. ShopRite hopes it offers just enough poo imaginable as well as a specialty bath depart- vice president of marketing, a new position. Greene was most beauty to get its fair share of this competitive market. ment featuring The Healing Garden, Village recently director of trade marketing for North America at ShopRite buyers have selected the fastest-selling Naturals and Yardley. Unilever Prestige. In his new position at Zirh, Greene will be items for its beauty assortment, which is located near, Within hair care there is an interesting ethnic selec- responsible for brand positioning, promotional programs and but not right next to, the pharmacy. There are two lin- tion that shows how ShopRite is attempting to reach management of the men’s grooming firm’s marketing staff. He ear feet of Sally Hansen nail products, one foot for out to African-American and Hispanic consumers. reports to Brian Robinson, president of Zirh International. Bonne Bell, one foot for Almay, four feet of A two-foot section is allocated to hard-to-find Maybelline and four feet of Cover Girl. A closer in- Hispanic products ranging from Ms. Moya skin ROAD TRIP: Avon took the award for Best Mobile Marketing spection of the choices shows the thinking — Bonne creams to a baby line called Para Mi Bebé. Included program at the Annual Event Experiential Marketing Summit in Bell to cover the youth market, Almay for sensitive in the Hispanic planogram are health-promoting Chicago last month for its “Let’s Talk Beauty Tour.” For two skin and Maybelline and Cover Girl for consumers teas, Heno de Pravia bath products and colognes years, Avon has been touring the country in a mobile unit who find it convenient to pick up a favorite beauty popular in Spanish-speaking countries. offering women makeovers, free samples and personal beauty item on a food store trip. Next to that department is another two-foot section advice. Avon was selected from among 240 entrants. Many supermarket merchants have long debated with popular ethnic products such as Soft Sheen hair the importance of beauty. Although the category de- care, Ambi skin care and Dark and Lovely hair color. JUDGMENT DAY: Self Magazine tested 900 new beauty products livers tasty margins, it is also space-intensive and ShopRite is using information gleaned from its with some 1,200 readers. The massive undertaking resulted in slow-turning — an anomaly in the grocery business Price Plus Club customer loyalty program to pinpoint the selection of 56 “Best of” winners — across cosmetics, facial where inventory is turned at a brisk pace. which stores require special ethnic departments. The treatments, hair products, tanning and hand-and-foot categories. According to Information Resources Inc., supermar- store here serves a diverse population including a This is the fifth year for Self’s Healthy Beauty Awards event, which ket sales of cosmetics for the 52-week period ended large Jewish, Asian and Hispanic base. evaluates drugstore and department store brands. “Readers are Feb. 24 were basically flat at $497 million. Food stores The opening week traffic in the new store, originally more knowledgeable about what they put on their skin than ever produce about 17 percent of the total $2.8 billion mass slated to be a Costco, was heavy — despite the multi- before,” noted Elaine DeFarley, Self beauty director. Cover Girl tude of nearby competitors. Several shoppers were took Best Mascara with Fantastic Lash; Sally Hansen’s Fast & CORRECTION: Bare Escentuals retail sales have ex- overheard comparing and contrasting the store to the Flawless Skin Brightener with Retinol was awarded Best Skin panded from $6 million to $200 million in the 10 years nearby Wegmans. One summed up what is becoming the Brightener; Vera Wang was cited for its Silkening Hand Creme, since Leslie Blodgett joined the company. The numbers driving factor in choosing a store to shop. “It was easier while La Prairie’s Cellular Night Repair Cream was lauded as Best were incorrectly reported in this column on page 9, to make a right turn into this center than a left turn to Night Cream. The full results appear in the May issue of Self. April 30. Wegmans,” concluded one customer at ShopRite.

replace the brand’s existing Expert Eyes line and will feature a smoother, creamier texture and a long-wearing, noncreasing formula. Maybelline to Unveil Mousse Makeup Marti Bentley, merchandise manager of beauty and cosmetics for Duane Reade, noted that, in addition to the products launching in July, Maybelline has been rolling out new store displays NEW YORK — Since Maybelline New York announced its new urban look and name in and she is hopeful for the brand’s performance. “I’m looking for both the new fixturization and December, the brand has been busy. the new products to make an impact for the second half,” said Bentley. In July, several products will launch, led by Dream Matte Mousse Creamy Natural Foundation, According to ACNielsen and Homescan data, Maybelline represented 19 percent of the $3.7 bil- a compact mousse formula that will be available in 12 shades. The foundation is said to provide lion U.S. mass cosmetics market in 2003. It’s sales were up 0.2 percent to about $703 million. full coverage, and has a sponge-like appearance. The component is equipped with a screw-off top. In August, Maybelline New York will also present the “Chicks with Attitude” tour, which fea- There is also XXL Mascara/Primer, a dual-ended volumizing and lengthening mascara; tures outspoken female rockers, including Liz Phair, The Cardigans and newcomers Katy Rose Forever Metallics Lites, a lighter version of the existing Forever Metallics Lipcolor line and Metal and Charlotte Martin, to capitalize on Maybelline New York’s edgier image. Shine Lipcolor, a lipstick in a convenient pencil form. Additionally, Expert Wear Eyeshadow will — Bryn Kenny 8 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 The HBA Report Spas Are Fertile Ground for Options By Andrea Nagel study that patients who were receiving IVF and system runs everything in the body, and…when we re- acupuncture had a higher chance of success in con- ceive a stress that we cannot recover from, it can cre- NEW YORK — Alternative fertility treatments are be- ceiving versus those receiving only IVF. ate interference.” ginning to top the list of services in several spas and But acupuncture is just one of many alternative fer- Last week Behrendt traveled to Washington armed health and wellness centers in Manhattan. tility treatments women are now seeking. The Olive with an overview of her study to discuss receiving As the cost of Western fertility treatments reaches Leaf Wholeness Center on 145 East 23rd Street now of- funding for bigger and more comprehensive studies. in the tens of thousands of dollars per couple, and as fers a natural fertility program which uses holistic The positive feedback she received in Washington is women become more frustrated with their side effects health approaches to help women become pregnant. now leading Behrendt to pursue federal funding, and sometimes inefficacy, natural health practitioners Olive Leaf, which is operated by Claire Altman, serves which, she explained, takes up to a year and a half for are stepping in to offer alternatives, such as acupunc- as an integrated health service center complete with an application to process. ture, reflexology and chiropractic care — for women Despite the hurdles, she is hopeful the future will having problems conceiving. Deborah deliver something bigger. Acupuncture is one of the most popular modalities Musso “Almost every chiropractor has seen [these kinds of women are seeking, either to complement or replace performs results] but we had to document it. There’s never been traditional fertility treatments. The age-old practice, network a study on chiropractic care on women’s health,” research shows, can normalize the production of hor- spinal care Behrendt said. mones in the pituitary gland, the master gland for en- on a Already, wellness centers using chiropractic care as docrine function, and can specifically help women patient. the centerpiece for their healing approach are adding who don’t menstruate regularly to resume ovulation, alternative fertility treatments to their menu. Sea according to Dr. Pak H. Chung, a reproductive endocri- Change Healing Center in Chelsea recently added a nologist and infertility specialist at the Center for three-month fertility program to their roster, custom de- Reproductive Medicine and Infertility in Manhattan, signed for each couple, whether they are just beginning which performs the highest number of in vitro fertil- to try to conceive or are having problems conceiving. ization procedures in the country. “Wherever they are in their journey, we can Another benefit to acupuncture is its ability to in- help,” said Deborah Musso, a chiropractor who crease blood flow to the uterus, which in turn strength- founded the center. ens the uterine lining, a vital part of preventing mis- The program can employ acupuncture, massage carriage. The third aspect where acupuncture may and nutritional health, depending on the couple, but help is in reducing stress. “In extreme cases, women all will utilize network spinal care, an offshoot of chi- don’t ovulate if stressed,” Dr. Chung said. ropractic care, which Musso describes as an advanced Dr. Chung estimates that up to 15 percent of all cou- healing modality, one that, with low-force touches to ples globally have infertility issues. “The human re- the spine, assists the brain in developing new strate- production system is not efficient,” he added, explain- gies to eliminate and adapt to daily stresses. ing that a healthy, young couple only has a 20 percent About 85 percent of Musso’s fertility clients have chance each month of conceiving. turned to her after Western therapies failed. In terms While acupuncture is offered at many spas and doctors, chiropractors, acupuncturists and reflexolo- of chiropractic care for fertility, her success rate is health and wellness centers across the country, some gists. The fertility program is led by Vera Krijn, a re- nearly 100 percent, she claims, with patients seeking spas are becoming known for their success rate in flexologist, who said she has helped 30 women to date out acupuncture 90 percent successful and those seek- helping women conceive through its use. At the Oasis in becoming pregnant. ing solely naturopath healing at Sea Change 85 per- on Park day spa located at One Park Avenue, acupunc- The $1,000 package includes 10 reflexology treatments cent successful. She added that, if something patholog- turist Eunice Simmons said about 60 percent of her with Krijn, as well as nutritional and dietary advice. ical was detected, she certainly would stress that a pa- patient list visits her for fertility help. Simmons, who “Reflexology helps with stress reduction, and stress tient see a physician. also owns and operates Acupuncture on Park, has even affects our reproductive system,” Krijn said. “The pro- Musso said the trend toward nonmedical fertility developed a support group on Monday nights for her gram is a holistic approach, so I include nutrition, treatments in wellness centers is consistent with other patients with fertility issues. “It can be so isolating,” such as vitamins, and advise not smoking or drinking. natural therapies that have emerged over the years. Simmons said of the process women go through when It is a multieffort approach.” She cited Sea Changes’ acupuncture facial, designed trying to get pregnant. In Krijn’s initial consultation, she rules out any un- as an alternative to Botox, and the anticellulite treat- Seeking acupuncture “is a good way to incorporate derlying factors to infertility, such as genetic or ment, as an alternative to liposuction. Musso said her this [togetherness] on their journey. It’s really taking anatomic disorders. She recommends her patients fertility program can be explored with or without fer- care of the person rather than just the symptom. seek out Western means if they haven’t already done tility drugs and hormones, which she describes as There’s also the group aspect of it, where women can so. Of her fertility client base, about 60 percent visit sometimes unsuccessful and dangerous. exchange ideas. There is something to be said about her in addition to receiving Western fertility practices. “If that’s what 6 million women are being told to do, feeling that you are not the only one,” Simmons said. The trend for alternative fertility treatments also my job is to provide an alternative.” Acupuncture, she added, serves as an affordable al- may expand into chiropractic care as small, independ- But at least one health and wellness director, who is ternative or complementary service for women seeking ent studies reveal that its practice can often promote also a medical doctor, is skeptical. “I’m sure the whole traditional Western fertility treatments, such as IVF. improvements in fertility function, too. Madeline idea of reducing stress helps the concept work, but I “People are spending so much money [on Western Behrendt, a chiropractor with a practice in Boise, don’t know that there has been any random sample fertility treatments] that [acupuncture] is a drop in the Idaho, wanted to document what changes occur in studies [to prove efficacy],” said Dr. Steve Salvatore, bucket and it has such good results,” Simmons said. women’s health under chiropractic care. She started director of the recently opened Juva Health & Acupuncture treatments on average cost $75 to $85 with infertility because she believes the subject has Wellness Center on 60 East 56th Street. Juva offers per 55-minute session. become a part of our social culture. “You hear about it acupuncture, reflexology and dietary advice, but not Many of Simmons’ patients have had success in con- on every TV show nowadays,” Behrendt said, referring under the “fertility” umbrella. ceiving while undergoing acupuncture, including five to subplots in “Friends” and “Sex and the City.” “The packaging of services, which sounds like mar- women who were recently in her Monday support The retrospective, two-year study revealed that in keting, makes sense, but we don’t do that. I am very group, whom she said are all pregnant now. Three of 11 chiropractic practices, 14 out of 15 women who had cautious because I don’t want to sell it, as something the group members were receiving Western fertility a history of having difficulty getting pregnant had be- may fail. I think if we package it we are saying this treatments; two weren’t. come pregnant after receiving chiropractic care. works,” said Dr. Salvatore. While Simmons claims glowing results on her pa- Among the women were sufferers of endometriosis, When told of the successes many alternative ap- tients who receive acupuncture, it’s important to note blocked fallopian tubes or amenorrhea. The 15th pa- proaches are delivering, Dr. Chung said these stories that there is no conclusive medical-based evidence tient was 65 years old and hadn’t menstruated in 40 are why further study is appropriate. that acupuncture works. years, but began spotting after chiropractic treatment, “One should be reminded that acupuncture has As a scientist, Dr. Chung, and doctors like him, are claimed Behrendt. been around for many years, there is certainly a role unable to assume success based on anecdotal stories Behrendt said the one commonality in all the for it. A very neutral way to make a conclusion is that and results. However, Dr. Chung did point to a German women was that they suffered from vertebral sublux- the role of acupuncture has not yet been defined, how- study published in the April 2002 issue of Fertility and ations — an interference of the nervous system, ever, there are biological rationale that may work Sterility, which revealed through a random controlled which can disconnect body and brain. “The nervous while also consulting with a well-qualified physician.”

imens, for dermatologists, and a sensitive-skin collection will be relaunched next year. An in- novative new sunblock will be introduced in February. The sales effort has been joined by Perricone to Open Store on Madison Avenue Lynda Berkowitz, a former Bobbi Brown executive who is now vice president of sales retail and Continued from page 5 professional products at Perricone. president of strategic planning and marketing for Perricone, the location will even be designed All of this has helped Perricone build a business some industry sources estimate as having like a library with four islands and four consultation rooms staffed by nutritionists or physiolo- reached $52 million in sales last year. He is said to have achieved a 16 percent increase this gists. Perricone’s books will be on sale and TV monitors will be playing the latest PBS lecture. year, bringing his projected revenue total for 2004 to more than $60 million. Selected nutritional foodstuffs also will be sold, along with all of the cosmeceuticals. The heart No one at Perricone would comment on the estimates, including another projection that of the operation will be in-depth, one-hour consultations, which the company values at $500 showed the Madison Avenue store having to generate at least $1 million a year just to break even. each. Included will be an ultraviolet examination of an individual’s skin structure. The company also is working on its overseas distribution. Perricone has had distribution in Krempel added there will be a beauty concierge service and a VIP entrance in the rear. Also the U.K. and Australia, but in September, the company will begin selling its products in under consideration are ideas to expand the personal consultation service into clients’ homes France. Perricone has moved into Italy through Sephora, and planning is under way to debut in and offices, with corporate programs. Japan. Perricone also intends to make a move in the travel retail market through DFS and the Perricone also markets a professional line, with a higher potency of his over-the-counter reg- British-based BAA. WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 9 Obituary Famed N.Y. Furrier Buoyant Buying at Atlanta Market By Georgia Lee budget up 10 percent over 2003. grew up with and then there’s Along with color, novelty tops her daughter, and we’re trying to ‘Mr. Fred’ Gompertz ATLANTA — Retailers came to have lifted sales, White said. She appeal to both,” he said. the fall AmericasMart show in a bought at least six tops to every Belton bought embellished NEW YORK — Fred Gompertz, more generous mood after sev- one bottom, light-weight cash- sweaters, hoodies and tweed better known in the fur district as eral seasons of cautious buying. mere blends and silk from One jackets to pair with skirts or “Mr. Fred,” died April 29 at the Buyers said they were lifted Girl Who and Joseph A., and or- jeans. For his contemporary cus- age of 80 at the Cabrini Medical by an infusion of color that dered jackets in colorful tweed tomers, Belton bought BCBG and Center’s Hospice Center here. sparked spring buying and has and suede fabrics from Votre jeans that offer an innovative fit The cause of death was blad- planted a seed for fall. Atten- Nom, Elliott Lauren and Emil or a higher rise by lines such as der cancer, according to his son, dance at the women’s and chil- Rutenberg. Seven and James. Jeffrey. dren’s apparel and accessories White chose novelty skirts in In North Carolina, textile, fur- Gompertz has cheated death show last month was up 19 per- all lengths for fall, based on niture and technology firms have twice, once as a teenager in Nazi cent compared with the previous strong spring sales, from Forwear closed, resulting in high unem- Germany and then again on Sept. year, AmericasMart executive and other resources. In pants, ployment that hurt business, 11, 2001, after being stranded in vice president Lawton Hall said. she concentrated on styles made Belton said. his Battery Park apartment. Fred Gompertz (far right) with FIT Entertainment, including a In November 1938, after Nazi students in 1970. free concert by Tony Bennett on troops arrested Gompertz’s fa- the second night in the mart’s ther, Leo, and brother Albert, the Instead of using pricy skins, he atrium, helped boost buyer atten- then 14-year-old Gompertz hid in opted for affordable alternatives dance, Hall said. He estimated the family’s home above its fur like rabbit, fox and lamb, often 2,000 people came to the show, shop in Gelsenkirchen, Germany. dyeing them bright colors. and said the mart will stage big- When his mother returned the A proponent of public rela- name entertainment events at following day, he and some fami- tions and marketing, Gompertz least two times a year. ly members escaped through the was a member of the American Premiere, the twice-a-year ju- Dutch underground, and eventu- Fur Industry, the group that pre- ried show, included Dana Buch- ally emigrated here to Washing- ceded the Fur Information Coun- man and Perry Ellis, both new ton Heights in 1939. cil of America. In his heyday from lines to the mart that also helped After graduating from the 1960 to 1971, despite the buzz attract buyers, Hall said. The Fashion Institute of Technology, about Mr. Fred’s “hundreds” of number of out-of-territory retail- Gompertz and his father, who celebrity customers, and concept ers increased 33 percent over last had managed to join the family shops at Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf year, he said. after being incarcerated for six Goodman and I. Magnin, the com- Mark Garland, principal of a months, started sewing and re- pany’s business only tallied better-to-bridge sportswear pairing furs from their Cabrini $300,000 annually in its prime in showroom under his name, Boulevard apartment. In 1944, the late Sixties, Ronald Gompertz picked up 35 new accounts, large- they founded LF Gompertz, a fur said. ly responsible for a 30 percent in- business. While running his fur business, crease in sales compared with But it wasn’t until the Sixties Gompertz worked as a consultant last April, he said. and early Seventies that the for Malden Mills in 1969 and 1970. “Retailers have bought cau- younger Gompertz made his Reached in his office Thursday, tiously for so long and now that mark in the fur business by de- Aaron Feuerstein, chief executive spring-summer goods are retail- signing affordable, casual pieces, officer of Malden Mills, said, “He ing, they’re buying more for fall,” including some in psychedelic was a fine man. He helped us Garland said. patterns. With a client base as di- when we were getting into the im- Buyers said after a long win- verse as Twiggy, Veruschka, Laur- itation fur business.” ter, March and April business en Bacall, Johnny Carson, Stein In 1971, LF Gompertz closed, had improved. Color was cited as Erickson, Jean Claude Killy and after maxilength coats flopped the driving force, along with fem- Tricia Nixon, Gompertz built a and glutted stores’ inventory. The inine styling, texture and details, healthy following through his furrier spent the early Seventies such as buttons, ribbons and celebrity clientele. “When I was designing Mr. Fred fur coats for hardware. Buyers bought color 13, I drove with my father to other labels, such as Mr. Fred for for fall in deeper, still vibrant, Garrison, N.Y., because Barbra Ben Thylon. In 1975, he took a job colors. Streisand was filming “Hello with Hutchinson International as Tweed and textured suits On the runway in Atlanta, looks from Poleci and Meritage. Dolly,’” said his son Ronald. “She director of its leather and fur di- have performed well and should wanted a personal fitting, and I vision and moved to Hong Kong. be strong fall categories, buyers in luxury Italian fabrics at Allen The economy in South Florida acted as his assistant. Stuff like Returning to the U.S. in the early said. Jackets sold well, paired Waller and jeans with new wash- has been more buoyant, said that happened all the time.” Eighties, Gompertz opened a with dressy or casual bottoms or es and treatments by Beau Daw- Kerri and Andrew Kovler, owners Gompertz also introduced a store on West 30th Street for fur jeans. Skirts, another spring son and Cambio. of Teen Angel, with four stores, in generation of lesser-known storage and fur repair. He bestseller, were picked up for While spring business is up, Delray Beach, Fort Lauderdale, women to fur, said Dennis Basso stopped working after being fall with asymmetrical hems, White said shopping is no longer Pinecrest and Miami. “He was the father of creating trapped in his apartment for wraps, pleats and embellish- the primary source of entertain- “Downturns in the stock mar- fur for the working girl. He made more than 30 hours following the ment that included hardware ment for her customers. She said ket may cause people to buy less, it inexpensive and affordable.” Sept. 11 attacks. and embroidery. said she “thinks out of the box,” but we carry lots of formalwear, Gompertz was widely known for In addition to his sons Ronald Retailers reported slightly in- with parties and events to lure and people will spend for special his “fun furs,” helping reposition and Jeffrey, Gompertz is survived creased budgets after years of customers. occasions,” Kerri said. the category as groovy instead of by a brother, Albert. cost-cutting and conservative Retailer Ben Belton, owner of For teens, they chose special matronly, his son Ronald said. — Rosemary Feitelberg buying. Libba’s, with four stores in North occasion, including jewel-tone Bonnie White, owner of an Carolina, said his customer base gowns in off-the-shoulder silhou- eponymous better-to-bridge spe- is changing. ettes from Nicole Miller and Tahari Sets Up Shop in SoHo cialty store here, shopped with a “There’s the customer we Jessica McClintock. NEW YORK — After a long absence, Elie Tahari is returning to the retail scene here. The designer has leased a 3,200-square-foot space at 417 West Broadway between Prince and Spring Streets in a building that housed the Mary Boone Gallery in the Eighties. Azagury-Partridge Exits Boucheron Tahari hasn’t operated a store in New York since his Madison Avenue Continued from page 2 Azagury-Partridge had no regrets and sapphires — at prices that boutique closed in the mid-Nineties. on the selling block, which has about her tenure during a time of ran into the millions. The SoHo store, set to open this summer, is part of a larger retail expan- been repeatedly denied by explosive interest and intense In subsequent collections, sion for the Elie Tahari Co., which now operates a scant five units in the U.S. Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, competition in branded jewelry. she drew inspiration from Euro- “This is a serious retail expansion,” said Rory Tahari, the company’s which controls Gucci Group. “I feel like I’ve been to the pean history to create such ex- creative director and wife of the designer. “We’re hiring a retail team.” Meanwhile, some luxury analysts university of jewelry,” she said. travagant designs as Ivy tiaras, Although the strategy is still being formulated, there are plans to open are calling for drastic action to “It was a very grown-up experi- rings with secret compartments a store in Chicago next month. The strategy includes opening both street stem the flow of red ink. Bouch- ence, and it’s been a major edu- and knitted gold mesh cuffs scat- locations and mall units. eron’s losses are believed to have cation for me about fine jewelry tered with diamonds. But there Rory Tahari, who designs T-21, a line of urban sportswear made of in- swelled to about $30 million last and how big business works.” were accessibly priced pieces, novative fabrics such as double-faced jersey, said her collection also will year, as reported. Market sources Azagury-Partridge — who ar- too, including rings resembling have stores of its own. The first will likely open in East Hampton, she said. peg Boucheron’s 2003 volume for rived at Boucheron around the nibbled or melting chocolates. To fill the new stores, the company is developing categories such as acces- jewelry and watches at around same time as Jade Jagger at She also launched lines of sories, handbags, shoes, outerwear, innerwear, swimwear and home products. $40 million with perfumes gener- Garrard and Reema Pachachi at watches and sunglasses, incor- “This is really an important time for Elie,” his wife said. “Elie’s been in ating another $60 million. De Beers LV — helped establish porating symbols of the house, business long enough to move to the next level.” On Thursday, Bedos dismissed her brand’s “haute” positioning like the snake, which also ap- — Sharon Edelson the disposal talk as “just rumors.” with a debut collection dripping pears on the fragrance, Trouble, Despite Boucheron’s troubles, with emeralds, rubies, diamonds that bowed last month. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004

Media/Advertising Reebok’s Human Rights Stars NEW YORK — Four activists MEMO PAD aged 30 and under were honored here Wednesday night at the an- SIGN LANGUAGE: American Media chief nual Reebok Human Rights David Pecker isn’t above jabbing a 195-foot- Award ceremony. They spoke of long finger in his competitors’ eyes. Come their causes and challenges that June 1, his company will take over a giant included imprisonment, death billboard that runs along the eastern side of threats and harassment. Broadway between 51st and 52nd Streets. The award winners were The space will be used to advertise AMI Yinka Jegede-Ekpe, 25, an AIDS titles, which include Star magazine, the activist from Nigeria; Ahmad National Enquirer, Shape and Men’s Nader Nadery, 28, of Afghanistan, Fitness. The billboard happens to be located a member of the Afghan catty-corner from Hachette Filipacchi David Pecker Independent Human Rights Media, where Pecker was chief executive Commission; Vanita Gupta, 29, an from 1992 to 1999. It’s also only a crosstown block away from Wenner American lawyer with the Media, from whence Pecker plucked his editorial director, Bonnie Fuller, last NAACP, and Joênia Batista de summer, in preparation for taking Star head-to-head against Wenner’s Us Carvalho/Wapixana, 30, of Brazil, Weekly, which Fuller had been editing. Until June 1, the lease on the who was that country’s first fe- billboard belongs to Hachette — it was Pecker who made that deal, as well. male indigenous lawyer and who “The minute we knew it was going to be available again, we wanted to get it now fights for her people’s rights back,” said Kevin Hyson, AMI’s chief marketing officer. “David always did to their ancestral lands. like Broadway,” said Hachette chief executive officer Jack Kliger. “It’s good Paul Fireman with Lucy Liu, Jessica Lange and Gloria Reuben at the Reebok to have him back in the neighborhood.” — Jeff Bercovici Human Rights Award ceremony. Our goal is to RAMP JUMPS THE SHARK: Ramp, the men’s magazine that started out as a “ Maxim clone before veering into GQ territory, is no more. Owner Universal use the awards as Media quietly pulled the plug in March, 18 months after Ramp’s launch. Universal vice chairman Geoffrey Lurie said the 250,000-circulation title an instrument to was unsuccessful at competing for ad pages with bigger players such as Maxim and FHM. “I guess the circulation of those magazines was more make change. compelling than the desire to appeal to a more mature audience,” he said. ” Richard Amann, who joined Ramp in February 2003 as president and — Paul Fireman, Reebok publisher, said Universal chairman Carl Ruderman “wasn’t willing to do long-term what it took to be competitive in the men’s category.” Amann “I am accepting this award on said he already is working on a new men’s magazine that will launch in the behalf of millions of Afghans who fall and go bimonthly in January. The magazine, which he described as lost their lives and have suffered “Euro-styled,” will be based in Miami and backed by a private investor who during the last three decades he declines to name. “The concept is very clear in my head. It’s under the Taliban,” Nadery said. unoccupied space in the men’s market.” — J.B. “Afghan women have been treat- ed as subhuman and it’s time we MEDIA MATCH: Chill some champagne: Meta-media power couple Jon Fine reach out to those deprived of and Laurel Touby are engaged. Fine covers magazine publishing for basic human rights.” Advertising Age; Touby is the founder of Mediabistro.com, a journalism There was some star wattage news and career-advice Web site. The pair have been together since they at the ceremony at Lincoln met at, yes, the annual Magazine Publishers of America convention in Center’s Alice Tully Hall. Among October 2002. “She thought I was the kind of sleazy guy who goes around the presenters were Jessica hitting on girls at conventions,” recalled Fine. Touby said she was struck by Lange, Gloria Reuben and Lucy Fine’s stylish attire. “One of the things that attracted me to him was that Liu, as well as Caroline Kennedy Award winners Joênia Batista de Carvalho/Wapixana, Ahmad Nader Nadery and he looked like a gay man,” she said. On a recent Saturday evening, the two and Vernon Jordan. The event Yinka Jegede-Ekpe. Vanita Gupta is not pictured. went for a lavish meal at Daniel, ostensibly to celebrate Touby’s birthday. featured video tributes about Full of food and wine, Touby fell asleep in the cab afterward, forcing Fine human rights, and musical performances by singer Reebok started the program in 1988, and has to delay his proposal until the following morning. The two have yet to set a Nellie McKay and Jabali Africa. presented awards to 76 people in 35 counties. The date, but Touby is already pondering how she can put her event-planning “Our goal is to use the awards as an instrument presenters each receive a grant of $50,000 to fur- expertise to use. “If I could get a sponsor for our drinks, I might do that,” to make change,” Paul Fireman, Reebok’s chair- ther their human rights work. The ceremony takes she mused. Fine thinks he can be of help as well. “I used to freelance at man and chief executive officer, told WWD. “We place in a different city each year, and is sched- Martha Stewart Weddings,” he said. “Theoretically I should have retained like to encourage young people to get involved and uled for London in 2005. something.” — J.B. also show kids that they can make a difference.” — Melanie Kletter Citymeals-on-Wheels Toasts Doers, Not Talkers NEW YORK — Acoustically, Grand Central Terminal is lived a perfect day even though you earned your a strain on even the best hearing, but Monday’s money unless you have done something for someone Citymeals-on-Wheels event there honoring three fash- else who will never be able to repay you.” ion types was a lesson in action, not words. Marylou Luther, Stan Herman, Lavelle Olexa and Jane Elfers, president and chief executive officer of John Pomerantz were in the crowd. Milewicz’s col- Lord & Taylor, and Felicia Milewicz, beauty director of leagues also showed up, including Glamour editor in Glamour magazine, were honored at Metrazur for their chief Cindi Leive, publisher Bill Wackerman and his support of the group that provides meals to home- predecessor, Suzanne Grimes. bound New Yorkers. Ruth Finley, founder and publish- er of the Fashion Calendar, also was toasted for her 20 years of service to the charity. You have not lived a perfect Many of the 17,000 meals that are served annually go “ Felicia Milewicz, Ruth Finley and Jane Elfers. to former garment workers, said Marcia Stein, execu- day even though you earned tive director of Citymeals-on-Wheels, after the presen- grade the Fifth Avenue flagship, they said over cocktails. tation. “The people we’re feeding today helped build your money unless you have Mark Mendelson, group president of Jones New the apparel industry in the Twenties and Thirties. York, said, “She is a working woman with a husband There was no Thailand [production] then. They’re the done something for someone and a kid. She definitely understands what the cus- people who sat at those sewing machines. They’re very tomer goes through to shop.” old, terrific and proud of what they’ve done.” else who will never be able to Accessories maven Elaine Gold said, “What they have Finley showed some pride, occasionally kicking a leg done with that store has made me as a vendor proud.” out from her Chado Ralph Rucci skirt to show off her dec- repay you. At the end of the night, even Elfers admitted there orative Wolford legwear. Joe Green, one of her three sons ” had been a lot of conversation about her store. “A num- at the festivities, said, “When we were kids, she’d be mak- — Felicia Milewicz, Glamour ber of people said to me tonight, ‘You have me as a cus- ing eggs for us in the morning and talking to Calvin Klein tomer.’ In this crowd, that’s a great compliment.” on the phone. We had no idea how important she is.” The bash centered on giving, as in the charitable kind, When Elfers admired food critic and Citymeals-on- A regular Citymeals-on-Wheels volunteer, the rangy but several guests gave Elfers kudos for spiffing up Lord & Wheels founder Gael Greene’s earrings, brooch and Toni Milewicz, described climbing stairs in four-floor walk- Taylor. Cleaning up pins from fitting room floors, rearrang- Tennille-type hat, Finley — ever the ringleader — piped ups and wondering how elderly inhabitants managed. ing display racks and having someone to greet shoppers up, “Maybe you should sell the earrings in your store.” Quoting an unknown writer, she said, “You have not and stash their umbrellas are among Elfers’ efforts to up- — Rosemary Feitelberg REEBOK PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; CITYMEALS PHOTOREEBOK PHOTOS BY BY JOHN CALABRESE

12 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004

PRECIOUS STONE: Sharon Stone is adding a touch of Hollywood glamour to the new ad campaign for Swarovski Fetes Nominees Fashion Scoops Salvini, the younger line from Damiani, the high-end Italian NEW YORK — Recognizing that Camargo and David Nakard CRASHING THE PARTY: Friends of four youngsters in tow: at his elbow jewelry company. The print the pressure on New York’s Armstrong for Anthony Nak, and Jaqui Lividini held a cocktail party for sketching dresses through to the campaign breaks in mid-May and emerging band of design talents Eugenia Kim. the Saks Fifth Avenue senior vice printing of silk and the fashion show runs for two years in Italy and is enormous, crystal maven “Since I’m the oldest young president of fashion merchandising at the Carrousel de Louvre. But Spain. The actress was Nadja Swarovski invited several designer in New York, it’s the on Thursday night to celebrate her fashion is hardly child’s play. The photographed by Michel Comte in of them to a leisurely lunch at least I can do to come out and “imminent new arrival.” There was book is recommended for those ages Los Angeles, swathed in white and Le Bernardin on Thursday in support these kids,” Kors said. one major no-show, though — nine and older. yellow gold and diamond hearts, honor of their nominations for “The crazy thing is that I’m not Lividini, whose imminent arrival had, crosses and charm bracelets. In one Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Awards. that much older than the kids.” in fact, arrived the night before. NAOMI’S VICTORY: Naomi Campbell shot, Stone dons a four-strand “I have to admit, life has got- Swarovski said she was host- Calliope Diane Speredakos weighed 7 has won her long-running court battle South Sea pearl choker dressed ten a little bit overwhelming,” ing the event prior to the pounds, 10 ounces. “I don’t know against the Daily Mirror. On Thursday, down with a white denim jacket. said Derek Lam, who is nomi- Council of Fashion Designers of whether it was the blackout or the full the House of Lords, England’s The campaign will run in such nated for his ready-to-wear, America Fashion Awards on moon, but there were beds lining up highest court, ruled the London magazines as Grazia, Gioia, D della along with Zac Posen and June 7 because she will not be waiting to get into the birthing room” tabloid invaded Campbell’s privacy by Repubblica, Vanity Fair and Patrick Robinson, the current able to attend the actual cere- of New York Presbyterian Hospital, publishing photos of her attending Panorama. There was no word on women’s designer for Perry mony, underwritten by Swar- Lividini said by telephone. Her theory Narcotics Anonymous in February which one she might keep. Ellis. “I feel like I’ve been doing ovski, as she is pregnant and on the baby’s quick arrival? “I’d worn 2001. Campbell was initially all my work from 9 p.m. until 3 her due date is around that 5-inch heels throughout the awarded $5,250 in damages in SURE SIGNS SUMMER IS COMING: It’s in the morning, because that’s time. Peter Arnold, executive pregnancy but last night was the first March 2002, but that October the becoming a rite of spring for the all the time I have. I was just director of the CFDA, presented night I wore flats and that’s what did Court of Appeal overturned the ruling fashion set to cram as many parties asking when I could find time to her with a baby-sized sweatshirt it.” The party went on, though, in favor of the Mirror, and ordered as possible onto the calendar prior take a vacation.” with the F of CFDA embroi- headed by Lividini’s longtime partner Campbell to pay $1.1 million in legal to Memorial Day, when guests tend Carolina Herrera, Reed dered in crystals, and confessed John Speredakos, who proudly showed fees. That’s when the supermodel to flee the major cities of fashion for Krakoff, Michael Kors and that he, too, is expecting — off digital photos of his new daughter. took her case to the House of Lords. greener, or grainier, pastures. Proenza Schouler designers Arnold and his partner, Tim Speredakos was there at her birth but On Thursday, three out of five law Narciso Rodriguez and architect Jack McCollough and Lazaro Braun, are having twins had to leave at 9 a.m. Thursday to lords ruled in her favor, with one Deborah Berke will host a discussion Hernandez also turned up to through a surrogate, with a due head off to his recurring acting role describing the Mirror’s article as “a on minimalist aesthetics in toast the nominees, including date in September. on, of all things, “All My Children.” gross interference” in her private life. contemporary design and accessories designers Anthony — Eric Wilson “This has been a huge strain and now architecture at the Tischman TEXTBOOK CASE: Whether he’s I can get on with my life,” Campbell Auditorium at 66 East 12th Street Derek Patrick Robinson and designing a collection or doing a said in a statement Thursday. in New York on Tuesday as part of a Lam and Anthony Camargo photo shoot, it’s all as easy as A-B-C Piers Morgan, editor of the Daily series of programs related to the Zac Posen for Karl Lagerfeld. To wit: The Mirror, hit back at Campbell. “This is Cooper Hewitt National Design multitasking designer is the subject a very good day for lying, drug Awards. That’s a busy night for Marc of a new children’s book in France abusing prima donnas, who want to Jacobs, too, as the designer is aimed at giving youngsters an have their cake with the media, and hosting back-to-back screenings of insider’s view of how fashion is then the right to guzzle it shamelessly “The Bitter Tears of Petra Von Kant” made. The 32-page book by with their Cristal champagne,” he at Soho House with Sally Singer, the Editions du Regard shows the said in a statement. The paper will second in the Grand Classics Films designer preparing his spring 2004 have to pay more than $1.7 million With Style series organized by Lagerfeld Gallery collection — with in legal fees, according to the ruling. Indyssey Entertainment. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER

Industry developments... Patty Griffin’s Quest Continues NEW YORK — When Patty Griffin’s parents re- Global Sourcing The Power of Negotiation Import Buying ceived the “Man From La Mancha” original cast Advertising and Promotion New Techno Fabrics soundtrack from Patty’s older sister, little did they know that, decades later, they’d be featured 3-D Modeling & Animation Art and Commerce singing a song from the record, “Impossible Publicity Workshop Online Retailing Dream,” on their daughter’s fourth studio-re- leased album. Web Design Technical Drawing Branding Strategies “They loved it,” Griffin says in a call from her home in Austin, Tex. “So I would hear them singing different songs from it, growing up, and I ... knew that record was important to them.” Career development The song perfectly embodies the more personal flavor of Griffin’s latest album — appropriately named after the track — as well as the political one. The singer-songwriter suggests the characters in the musical and the people living in the Sixties is connecting the dots. were virtually searching for the same thing. “There were all kinds of people trying to for- mulate a different future at that time,” she says, “and there’s a lot on [the soundtrack] about trying FIT’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies to create a different reality. offers two paths to success. For professionals looking to stay on “I think that’s how a lot of people who have no top, Hot Topics classes provide short-term seminars focusing control over the politics of the world feel right on the latest trends affecting creative fields. And for budding now, like a helpless, discouraged feel- ing that kind of creeps up on you, as entrepreneurs, the Enterprise Center courses teach the it certainly did with me.” business and technology tools needed to bring a creative idea to Her political concerns join life. No matter which path you choose, you’ll learn with industry songs of home and family, Arts leaders focused on your future. friends and love on “Impossible Dream,” released last month COME TO AN OPEN HOUSE: and certainly Griffin’s most per- Kutche for many of her stage frocks, and to General Advisement: sonal album to date. “This one is &Boudoir Queen, an Austin boutique, for some Monday, May 10, 4:30pm–6:30 pm; Saturday, May 15, 10:00am–12:00pm really more about me and my per- of her “old, antique” accessories. “I try to use a Marvin Feldman Center, C Building Lobby sonal confusions,” she admits. People lot of local people,” she says. “You can really get Griffin will be promoting the album at some unique stuff and you can work one-on-one Non-Credit Certificate Programs: Town Hall here tonight and Saturday night. with them.” Wednesday, May 12, 5:45pm–7:45pm Katie Murphy Amphitheatre, D Building But, having turned 40 in March, the Maine na- This route also allows her to get the custom tive is revealing her full colors, both in her music handiwork she prefers. “I really like simplicity, For a catalog call 1-888-FIT-IS-NYC x46 and in her style. On stage, rather than slicking and with older clothes, there’s just a lot more care herself up in the sex-soaked fashions so popular [taken] in general,” she explains. “An average per- www.fitnyc.edu/wwd today, she often sticks to more classic looks of the son [at that time] would have a dress that was re- Twenties and Thirties. ally meticulously well made because they were “People have told me for years that I look like only going to have three of them. School of Continuing & Professional Studies an old movie actress, so I never really fit into this “I love the fact that somebody’s hands have sort of modern look. I don’t look good in little lacy, made an item of clothing,” she continues. “There’s Fashion Institute of Technology STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK | SEVENTH AVE. AT 27 ST., NEW YORK CITY hot pink things,” she laughs. some soul in that.” Griffin turns to Austin-based designer Jyl — Lisa Kelly What makes a statement? W Wins the First Ever National Magazine Award for Photo Portfolio/Photo Essay

T H E K A T E M O S S P O R T F O L I O S E P T E M B E R 2 0 0 3

CHUCK CLOSE LUCIAN FREUD ALEX KATZ STEVEN KLEIN NICK KNIGHT CRAIG MCDEAN MERT ALAS & MARCUS PIGGOTT TAKASHI MURAKAMI RICHARD PRINCE TOM SACHS DAVID SIMS MARIO SORRENTI JUERGEN TELLER MICHAEL THOMPSON INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE & VINOODH MATADIN BRUCE WEBER LISA YUSKAVAGE

MAKE A STATEMENT. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004

APRIL SAME-STORE SALES

April March February January High End, Specialty Carry Comps 2004 2004 2004 2004 DEPARTMENT STORES Bon-Ton (4.2) (1.7) 0.4 (5.0) Dillard’s 1.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 Federated 5.4 6.8 9.0 5.5 Cooling Down Gottschalks (0.8) 11.2 2.3 8.6 Kohl’s (4.6) (0.9) 6.6 0.3 Marshall Field’s 0.6 9.9 6.5 4.3 May Co. (8.1) 10.1 2.6 5.3 Goldman Sachs Comp-Sales Index Mervyn’s (6.6) 0.8 1.4 (3.5) Neiman Marcus 14.0 25.7 24.4 12.8 Nordstrom 10.0 15.9 8.8 8.7 J.C. Penney (dept. stores) 5.3 11.4 12.1 6.4 Saks Dept. Store Group 10.6 1.9 8.0 3.3 Saks Fifth Ave. Enterprises 4.3 20.6 25.2 10.9 Sears Roebuck (U.S. stores) (1.8) 0.1 1.1 4.6 Stage Stores 0.3 5.5 8.0 2.1 Average: 1.7 8.0 7.9 4.4

SPECIALTY CHAINS Abercrombie & Fitch 0.0 (1.0) 1.0 2.0 Aeropostale 19.3 14.2 26.4 17.7 American Eagle (U.S. stores) 8.3 7.6 15.2 0.6 Ann Taylor 9.6 12.0 15.3 3.7 Banana Republic 12.0 25.0 30.0 (1.0) Bebe 10.0 20.5 24.2 4.8 Buckle 8.6 14.2 10.8 0.5 Cache 8.0 12.0 18.0 10.0 Cato (2.0) (1.0) (2.0) (8.0) Charming Shoppes 4.0 4.0 8.0 (3.0) Chico’s FAS 16.0 18.9 28.0 19.5 Christopher & Banks (3.0) (7.0) (7.0) (15.0) Claire’s 9.0 10.0 15.0 10.0 Deb Shops 1.4 (5.2) 12.7 5.0 Dress Barn 6.0 9.0 5.0 5.0 Gap (U.S. stores) 3.0 5.0 6.0 6.0 Goody’s Family Clothing 1.8 0.3 14.4 (1.6) Guess 17.5 13.8 14.8 9.5 Hot Topic 0.7 3.9 7.6 4.7 SOURCE: GOLDMAN SACHS. FIGURES REPRESENT ACTUAL PERCENTAGES Limited Brands 2.0 15.0 5.0 23.0 Mothers Work (0.4) (6.3) 7.8 2.0 Continued from page one this month with respect to sales performance. More Old Navy 3.0 11.0 16.0 3.0 at high-end department stores and specialty retailers. specifically, retailers with differentiated merchandise Pacific Sunwear 11.4 12.4 14.1 12.4 For example, the Neiman Marcus Group continued its (e.g., Federated, J.C. Penney and Neiman Marcus) out- run with a 14 percent gain while Nordstrom posted a 10 performed those with weaker apparel statements.” Talbots 0.3 1.1 5.8 (11.8) percent increase. Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises report- Kurt Barnard, consultant and founder of Barnard’s United Retail (3.0) (4.0) 1.0 (5.0) ed a 4.3 percent gain, which was lower than March due Retail Trends report, echoed this sentiment. “Color is Walgreen 10.3 12.6 11.8 9.1 to a shift in the retailer’s marketing activity. back very much in the forefront,” said Barnard. Wet Seal (16.8) (21.1) (12.5) (21.4) Consumer spending on apparel and fashion footwear “Fashions that catch the eye are really important; things Wilsons (3.5) (2.6) (0.8) (0.8) jumped 7.3 percent to $326.9 billion in the first quarter of that are a little unusual, a little out of the ordinary.” Average: 4.8 6.2 10.4 2.9 this year from $304.8 billion in the same period last year, The earlier Easter holiday, something most retail- according to the latest quarterly data from the Bureau of ers and analysts believed would negatively impact re- Economic Analysis, an agency of the U.S. Department sults, also seemed to have little effect on the high-end Mass Merchants of Commerce. Expenditures on the segment were up retailer. According to the Nordstrom sales call, the Retail Ventures (0.2) 4.1 10.5 (1.2) 11.6 percent compared with the first quarter of 2000. earlier Easter holiday season “had no material im- Ross Stores 2.0 7.0 0.0 4.0 While pent-up demand may help explain part of pact.” Sales accelerated during the last two weeks of ShopKo 4.3 5.2 2.0 3.2 that increase, Richard Hastings, a credit economist the month and full-priced selling remained strong, Stein Mart 6.7 18.4 7.6 5.7 with Bernard Sands, said it has more to do with the the retailer said. Target (discount stores) 6.2 7.8 8.0 5.1 strength of the affluent consumer. “In this econo- Retailers in the specialty store channel contin- TJX 5.0 9.0 10.0 2.0 my there’s a class of consumer now immune to ued to draw customers with colorful spring mer- Wal-Mart (discount stores) 3.6 5.6 6.0 5.3 inflation associated with higher grocery prices chandise as well as new summer offerings. or higher gas prices,” said Hastings. Aeropostale’s 18.9 percent comp increase was Average: 3.9 8.2 6.3 3.4 In keeping with trends, the high-end de- driven by women’s polos, women’s capris, bags, partment store channel blazed its own swimwear and flip-flops, according to the com- Tally: trail during April, with most besting pany’s sales call. Men’s wear led the way Up 36 40 45 38 comp estimates for the month. with gains in the low 20s while women’s Flat 1 0 1 0 Misfires from key moderate de- increased in the mid-teens. Down 13 10 4 12 partment store players, May It was a similar story for Total 50 50 50 50 Department Stores and Pacific Sun, with men’s T- Kohl’s in particular, shirts and denim pants as the FIGURES REPRESENT PERCENT CHANGE OF YEAR-OVER-YEAR SAME-STORE SALES. weighed down the channel. leading categories. Sneakers SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. PARENTHESES INDICATE DECLINES. Cool spring weather in and sandal sales were up more the Northeast, rising gas than 20 percent. prices and anticipation of a As comps were released on luxury goods, he said specialty stores are gaining rise in interest rates had Thursday, Wall Street wasn’t ground because of the improving economic outlook. an impact on overall re- thinking about sneakers or “Consumer spending and retailing are a function of one sults. The Goldman Sachs sandals or same-store sales. The four-letter word: jobs,” said Barnard. Jobs, more than Retail Comparable-Store Sales index LVMH’s Theda bag. Street was speculating on rising in- interest rates or gasoline prices, have a greater impact showed a 3.9 percent gain in April, terest rates and its impact on retail on sales behavior, he said. compared with a 6.8 percent gain reported in March. share prices. SG Cowen equity analyst Lauren Cooks And he sees no reason for trends among high-end re- Still, of the 50 retailers tracked by WWD, 36 posted Levitan offered an optimistic take in her research note. tailers to curb anytime soon. “This is part of a longer higher numbers. The specialty store segment took the “While it appears that rising interest rate fears are cyclical wave of buying,” said Hastings, who believes a lead, posting an average comp increase of 4.8 percent likely to continue to pressure [specialty retailers], we fashion boom began in late 2002. “By late 2002 there was for the month, compared with a boost of 6.2 percent re- believe some valuation levels for high-quality retailers a move toward a more contemporary appearance,” said ported in March. Mass merchants recorded an average have retreated to a point where we are willing to look Hastings. At that time, he said, new fashions and new gain of 3.9 percent, down from an 8.2 percent gain in the past potential interest rate pressure,” Levitan wrote. styles with unique colors came to the fore. This had a previous month. Buoyed by its high-end cohorts, the de- “Further, we note that we do not think increased inter- ripple affect, extending into other areas where the high- partment store channel posted a 1.7 percent gain, down est rates will have a significant impact on demand for end retailers reigned. from 8 percent. retailer's product — given a rise in interest rates would “The social mood embraced a much prettier look, “Results were erratic,” Smith Barney analyst correspond with sustained improvements in the econo- which fueled high demand for footwear, accessories and Deborah Weinswig said in a research report. “In our my and improved consumer confidence.” cosmetics,” said Hastings. view, a strong product offering was a key differentiator Barnard agreed. As affluent consumers drive sales of — With contributions from Dan Burrows WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 15

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Photoshop/Illustrator with salary history to: Pattern - Production - Samples apparel manufacturer is looking for a experience essential - Point carre a [email protected] designer with technical and creative plus. Must be able to work in a team Full - Fast - Quality skills. Must have 5 years experience as environment with a positive attitude. 212-575-1001 afashion bra designer. Candidate will Should be organized in keeping re- manage 4-6 people in a new design cords & follow up on overseas printing dept. Competitive salary and benefits. schedules. This is a great opportunity Fax resumes to 212-481-3881 for a highly motivated professional. Education Manager or Call: 212-481-3550 Please send your RESUME WITH Philosophy, an expanding skincare brand PATTERNS, SAMPLES, SALARY HISTORY TO-HR.- in prestige retail, seeks a West Coast PRODUCTIONS MANAGEMENT FAB.DSGN, Variety Accesories, Inc. Education Mgr. Candidate must reside All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. DIRECTOR OF SALES P.O. Box 4528, Great Neck, NY 11027, inSo. or No. California. Responsibilities Call Sherry 212-719-0622. E-mail [email protected] Ref. HR- include, presentation seminars for retail BlissWorld (the parent company of FAB.DSGN, Fax 516-773-6057 accounts, events, creative input, com- Bliss Spas, the BlissOut catalog, and puter skills, and extensive travel. Candi- the Bliss product line) is looking for a SWEATER DESIGNER date must have min. 2 years exp. as an Director of Sales to lead its wholesale / Fast paced Women’s Sportwear Co. educator. 5 years exp. in the skincare/ PATTERNS, SAMPLES, professional division. Candidates should seeks sweater designer with min 5 beauty industry as an account executive, have extensive experience in cosmetic years exp in better or contemporary store management or buying category PRODUCTIONS retail, dept store distribution, P & L market. Must have strong technical requiredFax resume with salary require- Samples and patterns full servcie shop management, and forecasting, some knowledge and have contacts with ments to the corporate office at: to the trade. Fine fast work. experience in marketing, and a good factories and yarn agents. 480-736-8009 EOE 212-869-2699. sense of humor. For immediate consid- Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 eration, e-mail your resume to: [email protected] Textile Designer Merchandise Mgr. to $90K. Current exp. in Seeking advanced CAD textile designers mens knit shirts. Product devel. Line pre- for free lance and full time positions. sentations. Production/ buy plans. Must be exp. in primavision and photoshop. Sourcing. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Call 212-244-1426 Fax 212-244-1447 16 WWD, FRIDAY, MAY 7, 2004 Oh, Brad! ● Kitchen Confidential ● The Multilingual McCartney

there’s still time next year. Each table in the Pool Room of the Four Seasons was named for such keen idols such as Bo Derek, Cher (where the mayor sat), Robert Redford, Cindy Crawford, the Beatles and Regis Philbin, and decorated with mementos of the idols’ careers, pictures, books, etc. Regis was so touched by the decor of the table named after him that he took everything on it — pictures and all — home with him and showed it off on his show the next morning. Every year, Lauren Veronis has hosted this dinner as she did again, assisted by Aerin Lauder and Eric Zinterhofer; her husband, John Veronis; her daughter, Perri Peltz; Eric Ruttenberg; Hilary Geary, and Mary and Marvin Davidson. Jamie Niven auctioned off the many splendid prizes and everyone cooed, “Isn’t Jamie a wonderful auctioneer?” And here is just a few of those who came to the foodie fete of the year: Nan and To mmy Kempner, Joan and Robert Tisch, Barbara Taylor Bradford, Carol and George Lauren Veronis McFadden, Marie Josée and Henry Kravis, Paula and Leon Root, Charles Gargano, Donald and Catie Marron, Stacey and Donny Deutsch, Deborah Norville and Karl Wellner, Paula Suzy Zahn, Pauline Pitt and By Aileen Mehle hundreds of other gourmets just like them. A beautiful Brad Pitt, in town on a private ● visit, joked with friends that his wife — Paul McCartney is that’s Jennifer Aniston for those reading nothing if not sensitive to eye® this on another planet — trusted him to the feelings of others. In behave himself better on the streets of his preparation for his New York than on the set of his soon-to-be-released summer concert blockbuster, “Troy,” in which he plays Achilles. Brad throughout Europe, said Jennifer thought he was running around naked in McCartney decided he one too many scenes. So he explained to her, “The wants to be able to speak Greeks were naked all the time — eating naked, playing with his audiences in their naked — they liked to be naked. I just didn’t realize I Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer Perri Peltz native language at each was the only one doing it in the movie. I thought and every stop. So he everyone else was, too.” Oh, honey, what a whopper. employed 11 personal Brad had just flown in from Chicago where he, in a smart, blue blazer and a red tie, along with Jamee tutors to teach him Danish, Swedish, Portuguese, George Clooney and Matt Damon were filming Gregory, wearing a blush tweed suit by Chanel and a Spanish, Russian, German, Italian, Czech, Finnish, “Ocean’s Twelve” at the Arthur Heurtley House, built pink hat; Jessie Araskog; Marcia Mishaan; Cynthia French, Norwegian and Swiss dialects. Even if only to in 1902 by Frank Lloyd Wright in the Oak Park section Lufkin and Julia Koch. Stopping by the table, which was say hello. Whatever, now he’ll be able to sing “Besame of the city, much to the delight of the local residents. covered in an Hermès cloth and centered with a poodle Mucho” to Heather, whenever he feels like it. Many of the children in the neighborhood got to be topiary, were such as Katie Couric, Allison Rockefeller, ● extras with the dubious bonus of pickpocket lessons Patricia Hearst, Susan Burke, Evelyn Lauder, Serena Viscount Linley, the 42-year-old nephew of Queen from Matt Damon’s character in the backyard of the Boardman and 1,200 others of that ilk of ribbon and silk. Elizabeth II, is making plans to bring his successful architectural masterpiece. Matt brought his latest The Mayor congratulated the ladies and financier furniture business to New York, with quality carpentry, girlfriend, interior designer Luciana Barroso, to Chicago Stephen Schwarzman, the corporate chairman, on design worthy of the adjective “royal” and clients as with him to keep him grounded, if that’s the word. They raising $2.2 million to help maintain the park and said diverse as Mick Jagger, Sir Elton John and interior went to baseball games, walked on Michigan Avenue he hoped to see everyone back at the same spot in designers Peter Marino and David Easton. Linley’s shop, and hugged and kissed when they bid each other February when artist Christo will wrap up the shebang specializing in furniture, upholstery and lighting in the farewell outside the city’s Peninsula Hotel — just like in in his signature fabric. Instead of straw hats, they’ll posh Belgrave section of London, has always been an the movies. When Luciana got in the car, Matt probably be wearing sable, the sweet things. absolute smash. He is scouting for a new location on screamed out, “Bye, baby! Have a good trip.” Who ● Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and everyone knows he wrote his lines? Our mayor, looking dapper again in a dark suit and a has already designed the famous boardroom table at the ● lovely tie, turned up with his lady fair, Diane Taylor, at Metropolitan Museum in New York. Karen LeFrak led the charge of the hat brigade into the Irvington Institute’s “Through the Kitchen Dinner” ● Central Park for the 22nd annual Frederick Law at the Four Seasons. He said it was one of the few times Ricky and Ralph Lauren’s daughter, Dylan, will turn Olmsted Awards luncheon. Karen is the new president he could go out to dine and eat anything he wanted. I over her Dylan’s Candy Bar for the “Kids in Candyland” of the Women’s Committee of the Central Park didn’t check his plate, but he looked really happy. This party to benefit Lenox Hill Neighborhood House’s Conservancy and she looked every petite inch the annual culinary extravaganza, which has been going Children’s Program. Renee Rockefeller, Eva Dillon and presidentessa in a rose-colored hat, a pink-checked strong for 19 years, invites the guests to stroll through Valesca Guerrand-Hermes are on the committee. skirt and a matching coat by Rena Lange that she the Four Season’s vast kitchen to choose delicacies Leading the parade of yummy mummies and cute, little bought in London just for the occasion. Karen had a from a succulent feast, featuring every delicious dish kiddies to the cookie counters are the party’s chairmen, buoyant Mayor Bloomberg at her table, looking dapper you’ve ever heard of — and some you haven’t — but Alexandra Kramer and Julie Regal.