In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton

IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON

EXPEDITION DOSSIER 13 JANUARY – 11 FEBRUARY 2021

he Ross Sea region of Antarctica is one of the most remote places on Planet Earth and T one of the most fascinating places in the continent’s human history. With shipping restricted by impenetrable pack ice to just two brief months each austral summer, few people have ever visited this strange and beautiful territory, with opportunities for non-scientific personnel limited to a handful of tourist expedition ships. Heritage Expeditions offers such a voyage on its own fully equipped and ice- strengthened ship Spirit of Enderby, crewed by some of the most experienced officers and sailors in the world and staffed by a passionate and knowledgeable expedition team. This is a unique opportunity to experience nature on a scale so grand there are no words to describe it.

The Ross Sea takes its name from Sir James Clark Ross who discovered it in 1841. The British Royal Geographical Society chose the Ross Sea for the now famous British National Antarctic Expedition in 1901-04 led by Robert Falcon Scott. That one expedition spawned what is sometimes referred to as the ‘Race to the Pole’. Ernest Shackleton almost succeeded in 1907-09 and the Japanese explorer Nobu Shirase tried in 1910-12. Scott thought it was his, but was beaten by his rival, Norwegian Roald Amundsen in the summer of 1911. Shackleton’s Trans- Antarctic expedition in 1914-17 marked the end of this ‘heroic’ or ‘golden age’ of exploration, but many of the relics of this era, including some huts, remain. The dramatic landscape described

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by these early explorers is unchanged. Mt Erebus, Mt Discovery and the Transantarctic Mountains are as inspiring today as they were 100 years ago. The penguin rookeries described by the early biologists fluctuate in numbers from year to year, but they still occupy the same sites. The seals, which are no longer hunted for food lie around on ice floes seemingly unperturbed. The whales, which were hunted so ruthlessly here in the 1920s, are slowly coming back, but it is a long way back from the edge of extinction, and some species have done better than others. Snow Petrels, Wilson’s Storm-Petrels, Antarctic Prions © A Russ and South Polar Skuas all breed on the bridge as we set our in this seemingly inhospitable ITINERARY course to The Snares and our environment. Day 1: Invercargill adventure begins. Arrive at Invercargill, New There is so much to do and so Zealand’s southernmost city. Day 3: The Snares much to see here, from exploring Established by Scottish settlers, the – North East Island historic huts and sites to visiting area’s wealth of rich farmland is The closest Subantarctic Islands penguin rookeries, marvelling at the well suited to the sheep and dairy to New Zealand, they were glacial ice tongues and ice shelves, farms that dot the landscape. appropriately called The Snares and understanding the icebergs because they were probably and sea ice. Then there are all Passengers should make their way considered a hazard by their the seabirds, seals and whales to to the Ascot Park Hotel where our discoverer Lieutenant Broughton observe and photograph, modern group will spend the first night of in 1795. Comprising of two main scientific bases and field camps the expedition. This evening there islands and a smattering of rocky to visit and simply the opportunity will be an informal get-together at islets, they are uninhabited and to spend time drinking in the the hotel for dinner; an excellent highly protected. marvellous landscape that has opportunity to meet fellow always enthralled visitors. adventurers on your voyage and North East Island is the largest of some of our expedition team. The Snares and it is claimed that Lying like stepping stones to the this one island is home to more Antarctic continent are the little Day 2: Port of Bluff known Subantarctic Islands. Today we enjoy breakfast in the Our journey also includes The hotel restaurant and take the Snares, Auckland, Macquarie and opportunity to explore some of Campbell Islands. They break our the local Southland scenery and long journey, but more importantly, attractions before heading to they help prepare us for what lies the Port of Bluff to embark the ahead, for these islands are part Spirit of Enderby. You will have of the amazing and dynamic time to settle into your cabin and Southern Ocean ecosystem of familarise yourself with the ship; which Antarctica is at the very we will also take the opportunity heart. It is the powerhouse which to conduct a number of safety drives this ecosystem upon which briefings. You are invited to join the world depends. the expedition team and captain © R Robinson

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nesting seabirds than all of the most colourful history of discovery British Isles together. We will arrive and attempted settlement. early in the morning and cruise Characterised by towering cliffs along the sheltered eastern side and rugged sea stacks, these of the rugged coastline by Zodiac islands have borne witness to if weather and sea conditions many a shipwreck in days are suitable (landings are not gone by. permitted). In the sheltered bays, we should see the endemic Enderby Island in this group is a Snares Crested Penguins, Snares great place to view birds and Island Tomtit and Fernbirds. wildlife and is perhaps the most Cape Pigeons, Antarctic Terns beautiful of all the Subantarctic and Red-billed Gulls are also Islands. Located at the northern © K Ovsyanikova present in good numbers. There end of this cluster of islands, it are hundreds of thousands of offers a varying landscape with birth of a single pup. Hookers or Sooty Shearwaters nesting on a low plateau of scrubland and New Zealand Sea Lion numbers The Snares; the actual number is cushion bog. We will enjoy the are in a slow decline, for reasons much debated. Around Christmas extensive areas of regenerating which are not obvious but most time each year the Buller’s patches of megaherbs especially probably connected with a Albatross return here to nest. Out the Anisotome latifolia and nearby squid fishery. As we on the Western Chain (considered Stilbocarpa Polaris. Introduced explore further inland it is not part of The Snares island group) cattle, rabbits and mice were unusual to encounter a sea the Salvin’s Albatross will already removed from this island in the lion relaxing in the gnarled and be nesting. Other nesting seabirds mid 1990s and the plants and windswept rata forest. include Cape Petrel (or Pigeon), birds are responding, increasing in Mottled Petrel, diving-petrel and numbers and diversity. In the forest behind the beach Broad-billed Prion. we find Bellbirds, Red-crowned The island enjoys a much milder Parakeets and the friendly Day 4: Auckland Islands climate than most Subantarctic Tomtits. Yellow-eyed Penguins – Enderby Island Islands because of its location. also nest in the forest and under The Auckland Islands group was Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, the tangled divaricated shrub formed by two volcanoes which one of three breeding areas Myrsine divaricata. You can see erupted some 10-25 million years in the Auckland Islands for the them as they travel backwards ago. They have subsequently Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea and forwards across the beach been eroded and dissected Lion, a rare member of the seal to their nests, especially in the by glaciation creating the family. Beachmaster bulls gather evenings. On the more open archipelago as we know it today. on the beach defending their terrain beyond the Rata forest we harems from younger (ambitious) find nesting Royal Albatross and The group is one of the largest males, to mate with the cows the endemic Auckland Island in the Subantarctic and has a shortly after they have given Dotterel. There is also a good chance of seeing the endemic Auckland Island Flightless Teal and the Subantarctic Snipe. Migratory waders (if there are any) congregate at Derry Castle Reef, and it is not unusual to observe Bar-tailed Godwit and Turnstone here.

As we explore further we should also have the chance to see the following species: Northern Giant Petrel, Auckland Island © K Ovsyanikova Shag, Tomtit and Pipit and the

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wind and weather prevent us Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White- from doing this, other options headed Petrel, Cape Petrel, include a relatively easy walk to diving-petrel, Grey-backed an abandoned Coastwatcher’s and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels. hut and lookout used during the This is potentially some of the Second World War. If landing best pelagic ‘birding’ on the on the shores on the north arm expedition and for those with of Carnley Harbour where the country lists (of birds) we will be Grafton was wrecked in 1865, passing from New Zealand into the remains of the vessel and Australian waters. their castaway hut can still be seen. There are two other sites Days 7 to 8: Macquarie Island of interest that if we can’t land Australia’s prized Subantarctic at the above sites we might possession, it supports one of the consider. They are Camp Cove, highest concentrations of wildlife site of the official Government in the Southern Ocean. Millions of Castaway depots constructed in penguins of four different species the late 1800s and the ‘Erlangen’ – King, Rockhopper, Gentoo clearing where the German and the endemic Royal – breed © O Liodden merchant ship of the same here. We plan to spend our name cut firewood on the eve time divided between the two Light-mantled Sooty Albatross. of the Second World War which approved landing sites, Sandy Other more common species we allowed it to leave New Zealand Bay and Buckles Bay as well as a will see include the Goldfinch, undetected. Zodiac cruise at Lusitania Bay if Song Thrush, Blackbird, European weather conditions permit. Starling, Red-billed Gull and Day 6: At Sea Redpoll. At sea, learn more about the At Sandy Bay a Royal Penguin biology and history of the rookery teems with feisty little birds Day 5: Auckland Islands Subantarctic Islands and the trotting back and forth, golden – Carnley Harbour Southern Ocean through a series head plumes bobbing as they We arrive in Carnley Harbour, of lectures and presentations. march to and from the shore. All once the caldera of the Carnley We will be at sea all day, so it three million of the world’s Royal volcano. The walls of the caldera is another opportunity to spot Penguins breed on Macquarie have been breached on both pelagic species including (but Island. There is also a substantial the eastern and western sides, not limited too) the Wandering King Penguin Colony. Some of separating Adams Island to the Albatross, Royal Albatross, Shy the best observations will be had south. The eastern entrance is and White-capped Albatross, by quietly sitting and letting the navigable for smaller vessels such Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, birds come to you. They are both as ours. The extensive harbour is Grey-headed Albatross, Black- unafraid and inquisitive – the rich in history and in opportunities. browed Albatross, White-chinned combination is unique. Our activities are totally weather dependent as the wind often funnels down the harbour making anchoring and some landings impossible.

We have a number of options including a reasonably difficult scramble to a Shy Albatross colony on South West Cape. For those not able to manage this there will be the option to Zodiac cruise the pristine shores of Adams Island and Western Harbour. If © N Russ

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undertook one of the most ambitious eradication projects anywhere in the world. Their plan was to rid the island of all introduced species including rabbits, rats and mice. It looks like it has succeeded and the island and its wildlife is responding. The vegetation is re-establishing and petrel and prion numbers are increasing.

It is an amazing island, in addition to the penguins and elephant seals, there are three species of fur seals to be found there and four species of albatross, Wandering, Black-browed, Grey- headed and Light-mantled Sooty. © G Riehle Days 9 to 12: At Sea At Buckles Bay we will have a preparing for their mature years Soaring albatross and petrels guided tour of the Australian when they will look after their own circle the vessel as we steam Antarctic Division Base which was harems. ever southward through the established in the late 1940s and Southern Ocean. Lectures now has been manned continuously The King Penguin rookery concentrate on Antarctica and since then. There is a range at Lusitania Bay is noisy and the Ross Sea region. We will pay of scientific research being spectacular. A welcoming attention to water temperatures undertaken here as well as a very committee will likely porpoise so that we know when we cross strategically important weather around our Zodiacs as a quarter the Antarctic Convergence into station. of a million King Penguins stand at the cold but extremely productive attention on shore. In the centre Antarctic waters. Drifting icebergs Large groups of Southern Elephant of the rookery, rusting condensers carry vivid colours and come Seals slumber on the beaches are grim reminders of a time in extraordinary shapes. Each and in the tussock at both of our when scores of penguins were is a unique, natural sculpture. landing sites. These giant, blubbery slaughtered for their oil. Now their The captain will manoeuvre creatures will barely acknowledge offspring have reclaimed this the ship in close for your first ice our presence, lying in groups of territory. photography and announce a intertwined bodies, undergoing special celebration as we pass their annual moult. Younger In 2011 the Tasmanian National the Antarctic Circle and into bulls spar in the shallow water, Parks and Wildlife Service Antarctica’s realm of 24-hour daylight!

Relax in the ship’s bar and catch up with some reading in the library. If you have brought your laptop with you there will be time to download and edit photos while they are fresh in your mind.

Days 13 to 22: Antarctica’s Ross Sea Region During our time in the Ross Sea © L Carnaby region, we will visit the highlights

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of Antarctica’s most historic region. Due to the unpredictable nature of ice and weather conditions, a day-by-day itinerary is not possible. The captain and Expedition Leader will assess daily conditions and take advantage of every opportunity to make landings or send you out in the Zodiacs. Our program emphasises wildlife viewing, key scientific bases and historic sites, as well as the spectacular scenery of © S Blanc the coastal terrain, the glaciers and icebergs of the Ross Sea. overwintering shelter for the first numbers of Adelie Penguins and Whilst specific landings cannot expedition to the continent in 1899. Weddell Seals. be guaranteed, we hope to visit It is a fascinating relic of the ‘Heroic the following as well as seek out Age’ of Antarctic exploration and Franklin Island new, perhaps previously unvisited we are able to inspect the interior, This rugged island, deep in the areas. which still contains artefacts of the Ross Sea, is home to a large early explorers. One thousand feet Adelie Penguin colony and other We hope to visit the following up in the hills behind Cape Adare nesting seabirds. We will attempt areas: is the oldest grave in Antarctica, a Zodiac landing near the rookery Cape Adare that of 22-year-old Nicolai Hansen, as well as exploring the coastline. Cape Adare’s bold headland and a member of Borchgrevink’s If a landing is achieved and the Downshire Cliffs greet us as expedition. weather conditions are suitable we approach Cape Adare – ice there will be an opportunity for conditions permitting – at the tip Cape Hallett those who are feeling fit to climb of the Ross Sea, the site of the The enormous Admiralty Range to the summit of the island. largest Adelie Penguin rookery in heralds our arrival at Cape Antarctica. Blanketing the large, Hallett, near the head of the Possession Islands flat spit which forms the cape is the Ross Sea. The scenery here is These small, rugged and rarely huge rookery which now, at the wild and spectacular; mountains visited islands lie off the shore of height of summer, numbers over rear up towering out of the sea Cape Hallett. An Adelie Penguin one million birds – an absolutely to over 4,000-metres high and rookery, numbering tens of staggering sight. You will never giant glaciers course down from thousands of birds, blankets Foyn forget your first experiences in the interior to the water’s edge. Island. Observe their busy and a ceaselessly active and noisy We land next to the site of the sometimes humorous activities, with ‘penguin city’, where the dapper abandoned American/New the Admiralty Mountains forming a inhabitants show no fear of their Zealand base, home to large superb backdrop across the water. strange visitors. Our naturalists will point out various aspects of their lifestyle and, by sitting down quietly, one may observe the often comical behaviour of the penguins, courtship displays, feeding ever- hungry chicks, territorial disputes and the pilfering of nest material. Curious penguins often come very close, presenting superb photographic opportunities. Surrounded by a sea of penguins, we will find Borchgrevink’s Hut, the oldest in Antarctica, an © D Brown © O Belonovich

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1911 and beautifully preserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. It stands as testimony to the rigours faced by pioneering explorers. Inside the hut we will witness the living conditions almost exactly as they were when Scott, Wilson and Ponting occupied these quarters. Behind the hut, Mt Erebus looms above with its plume of white smoke spiralling up from the still- active inferno in its bowels.

McMurdo and Scott Base (including Scott’s Discovery Hut) These are always on our wish list but ice, weather and operational requirements for the National Programs, including cargo and © K Ovsyanikova fuel unloading and icebreaker activities sometimes prevent us Ross Ice Shelf when we arrive. At Cape Royds we from getting in, especially on the The largest ice shelf in Antarctica, visit Sir Ernest Shackleton’s hut, built January expedition. Our February the Ross Ice Shelf is also the during the Nimrod polar attempt of expedition is generally more world’s largest body of floating 1907-1909. Lectures explain many successful but not guaranteed. ice. A natural ice barrier, at times facets of Shackleton’s amazing it creates hazardous weather expeditions. He was possibly one Terra Nova Bay conditions, with sheets of snow of the greatest, and certainly one Baia Terra Nova, an Italian blown at gale force by the of the most heroic of the Antarctic summer research station, is one of katabatic winds coming off the explorers. Though the legendary the most modern and attractive polar ice cap. Just 800 miles from explorers are long gone, the area in Antarctica. The scientists and the South Pole, this daunting around the hut is far from deserted, support staff here are always most spectacle prevented many early having been reclaimed by the hospitable and enjoy showing us Antarctic explorers from venturing original inhabitants of the area – around their lonely but beautiful further south. From the Ross Ice thousands of Adelie Penguins in home. The Italians conduct many Shelf we cruise eastward along the world’s southernmost penguin streams of scientific research the shelf front, with its spectacular rookery. and also claim to have the best 30-metre high ice cliffs, which ‘espresso’ in Antarctica! Nearby sometimes calve tabular Also found on Ross Island is Cape is the German base, Gondwana, icebergs. Evans, the historic site of Captain which is used occasionally and Scott’s second hut, erected in the South Korean station, Jang Ross Island – Mount Erebus/ Bogo. The Chinese are planning a Cape Bird/Shackleton’s Hut/ base nearby as well. Scott’s Hut At the base of the Ross Sea we Days 23 to 26: At Sea arrive at Ross Island, dominated En route to Campbell Island, by the 13,000ft high volcano, take part in a series of lectures Mt Erebus. The New Zealand designed to prepare you for our Antarctica programme maintains visit tomorrow. Pelagic species a field station at Cape Bird, where abound here as they did en route scientists study many aspects of the to Macquarie Island earlier in our region’s natural history, including voyage. Above all, take the time to the large Adelie Penguin colony. rest and enjoy shipboard life after Scientists may be at the field station © JJ L’Heureux the excitement of the Antarctic.

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breed on Campbell Island. These DATES magnificent birds, close relations Voyage #SOE2170 to and the same size as the 13 January – 11 February 2021 Wandering Albatross, have the largest wingspan in the world and PRICES are very approachable, making Heritage Suite $ 32,880 pp* superb photographic subjects. Large lounge area, separate bedroom with double bed and a single bed in the lounge, writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with Day 29: At Sea shower, toilet and washbasin. Large forward and At sea en route to the Port of side facing windows allow great views. Bluff, take the opportunity to Mini Suite $ 30,280 pp* relax and reflect on an amazing Separate bedroom with a double bed and a single bed or sofa in the lounge, writing desk, wardrobe © E Whitehead experience. This is a good and drawers. Private bathroom with shower, toilet opportunity to download and and washbasin. Mini Suites have windows. edit any remaining photos while Days 27 to 28: Campbell Island – Superior Plus $ 29,180 pp* Perseverance Harbour they are fresh in your mind and Two lower berths, writing desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with shower, toilet and New Zealand’s southernmost you have the experience of washbasin. These cabins have windows. Subantarctic territory, the Campbell our expedition team on board for questions. We will recap the Superior $ 25,880 pp* Island group lies approximately One bunk (one upper and one lower berth), writing 660km south of Bluff. We visit highlights of our expedition and desk, wardrobe and drawers. Private bathroom with enjoy a farewell dinner tonight as shower, toilet and washbasin. These cabins have Campbell Island, the main island windows. in the group, and spend the day we sail to our final port. Main Deck $ 23,880 pp* exploring the island on foot from Two lower berths, writing desk, wardrobe and Perseverance Harbour, a long Day 30: Invercargill drawers. Private washbasin. Nearby shower and Early this morning we will arrive toilet facilities are shared with other Main Deck inlet cutting into the undulating cabins. These cabins have a porthole. landscape. Campbell Island is a in the Port of Bluff. After a final * The price listed includes the additional landing fee truly magnificent place of rugged breakfast and completing of $880 pp. (All prices are per person in US$) scenery, unique flora and abundant Custom formalities we bid wildlife. Perseverance Harbour farewell to our fellow voyagers PRICE INCLUDES where we drop anchor is an and take a complimentary Landing fees, pre/post cruise transfers, occasional refuge for Southern Right coach transfer to either a central one night hotel accommodation in a Whales who come here to calve. city point or to the airport. twin share room (incl. dinner/breakfast), all on board ship accommodation, Here we will find a now abandoned In case of unexpected delays meals and all expedition shore New Zealand meteorological station excursions. as well as Campbell Island Shags, due to weather and/or port penguins, fur seals and rare Hooker’s operations we ask you not to PRICE EXCLUDES Sea Lions. book any onward travel until after midday today. All items of a personal nature, laundry, drinks, gratuities. International/domestic As rats and sheep have been flights, visas and travel insurance. successfully removed, there has Note: During our voyage, been an encouraging increase in circumstances may make it small bird numbers and the recovery necessary or desirable to deviate of wild flowers and megaherbs. from the proposed itinerary. Campbell Island Flightless Teal have This can include poor weather been successfully reintroduced, and opportunities for making a previously unknown Snipe is unplanned excursions. Your re-colonising the island from Expedition Leader will keep neighbouring Jacquemart Island you fully informed. Landings at and the Pipit is making a comeback. the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand are by permit only as The highlight of our visit however administered by the Government of New Zealand. No landings are is a walk to the hilltop breeding 2170170519 sites of Southern Royal Albatross, permitted at The Snares. over six thousand pairs of which