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In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON ROSS SEA, ANTARCTICA EXPEDITION DOSSIER 13 JANUARY – 11 FEBRUARY 2021 © S Blanc ROSS SEA, IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON ANTARCTICA © K Ovsyanikova © S Ott © G Jones he Ross Sea region of Antarctica is one of the most remote places on Planet Earth and T one of the most fascinating places in the continent’s human history. With shipping restricted by impenetrable pack ice to just two brief months each austral summer, few people have ever visited this strange and beautiful territory, with opportunities for non-scientific personnel limited to a handful of tourist expedition ships. Heritage Expeditions offers such a voyage on its own fully equipped and ice- strengthened ship Spirit of Enderby, crewed by some of the most experienced officers and sailors in the world and staffed by a passionate and knowledgeable expedition team. This is a unique opportunity to experience nature on a scale so grand there are no words to describe it. The Ross Sea takes its name from Sir James Clark Ross who discovered it in 1841. The British Royal Geographical Society chose the Ross Sea for the now famous British National Antarctic Expedition in 1901-04 led by Robert Falcon Scott. That one expedition spawned what is sometimes referred to as the ‘Race to the Pole’. Ernest Shackleton almost succeeded in 1907-09 and the Japanese explorer Nobu Shirase tried in 1910-12. Scott thought it was his, but was beaten by his rival, Norwegian Roald Amundsen in the summer of 1911. Shackleton’s Trans- Antarctic expedition in 1914-17 marked the end of this ‘heroic’ or ‘golden age’ of exploration, but many of the relics of this era, including some huts, remain. The dramatic landscape described WWW.HERITAGE-EXPEDITIONS.COM 2 [email protected] ROSS SEA, IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON ANTARCTICA by these early explorers is unchanged. Mt Erebus, Mt Discovery and the Transantarctic Mountains are as inspiring today as they were 100 years ago. The penguin rookeries described by the early biologists fluctuate in numbers from year to year, but they still occupy the same sites. The seals, which are no longer hunted for food lie around on ice floes seemingly unperturbed. The whales, which were hunted so ruthlessly here in the 1920s, are slowly coming back, but it is a long way back from the edge of extinction, and some species have done better than others. Snow Petrels, Wilson’s Storm-Petrels, Antarctic Prions © A Russ and South Polar Skuas all breed on the bridge as we set our in this seemingly inhospitable ITINERARY course to The Snares and our environment. Day 1: Invercargill adventure begins. Arrive at Invercargill, New There is so much to do and so Zealand’s southernmost city. Day 3: The Snares much to see here, from exploring Established by Scottish settlers, the – North East Island historic huts and sites to visiting area’s wealth of rich farmland is The closest Subantarctic Islands penguin rookeries, marvelling at the well suited to the sheep and dairy to New Zealand, they were glacial ice tongues and ice shelves, farms that dot the landscape. appropriately called The Snares and understanding the icebergs because they were probably and sea ice. Then there are all Passengers should make their way considered a hazard by their the seabirds, seals and whales to to the Ascot Park Hotel where our discoverer Lieutenant Broughton observe and photograph, modern group will spend the first night of in 1795. Comprising of two main scientific bases and field camps the expedition. This evening there islands and a smattering of rocky to visit and simply the opportunity will be an informal get-together at islets, they are uninhabited and to spend time drinking in the the hotel for dinner; an excellent highly protected. marvellous landscape that has opportunity to meet fellow always enthralled visitors. adventurers on your voyage and North East Island is the largest of some of our expedition team. The Snares and it is claimed that Lying like stepping stones to the this one island is home to more Antarctic continent are the little Day 2: Port of Bluff known Subantarctic Islands. Today we enjoy breakfast in the Our journey also includes The hotel restaurant and take the Snares, Auckland, Macquarie and opportunity to explore some of Campbell Islands. They break our the local Southland scenery and long journey, but more importantly, attractions before heading to they help prepare us for what lies the Port of Bluff to embark the ahead, for these islands are part Spirit of Enderby. You will have of the amazing and dynamic time to settle into your cabin and Southern Ocean ecosystem of familarise yourself with the ship; which Antarctica is at the very we will also take the opportunity heart. It is the powerhouse which to conduct a number of safety drives this ecosystem upon which briefings. You are invited to join the world depends. the expedition team and captain © R Robinson WWW.HERITAGE-EXPEDITIONS.COM 3 [email protected] ROSS SEA, IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON ANTARCTICA nesting seabirds than all of the most colourful history of discovery British Isles together. We will arrive and attempted settlement. early in the morning and cruise Characterised by towering cliffs along the sheltered eastern side and rugged sea stacks, these of the rugged coastline by Zodiac islands have borne witness to if weather and sea conditions many a shipwreck in days are suitable (landings are not gone by. permitted). In the sheltered bays, we should see the endemic Enderby Island in this group is a Snares Crested Penguins, Snares great place to view birds and Island Tomtit and Fernbirds. wildlife and is perhaps the most Cape Pigeons, Antarctic Terns beautiful of all the Subantarctic and Red-billed Gulls are also Islands. Located at the northern © K Ovsyanikova present in good numbers. There end of this cluster of islands, it are hundreds of thousands of offers a varying landscape with birth of a single pup. Hookers or Sooty Shearwaters nesting on a low plateau of scrubland and New Zealand Sea Lion numbers The Snares; the actual number is cushion bog. We will enjoy the are in a slow decline, for reasons much debated. Around Christmas extensive areas of regenerating which are not obvious but most time each year the Buller’s patches of megaherbs especially probably connected with a Albatross return here to nest. Out the Anisotome latifolia and nearby squid fishery. As we on the Western Chain (considered Stilbocarpa Polaris. Introduced explore further inland it is not part of The Snares island group) cattle, rabbits and mice were unusual to encounter a sea the Salvin’s Albatross will already removed from this island in the lion relaxing in the gnarled and be nesting. Other nesting seabirds mid 1990s and the plants and windswept rata forest. include Cape Petrel (or Pigeon), birds are responding, increasing in Mottled Petrel, diving-petrel and numbers and diversity. In the forest behind the beach Broad-billed Prion. we find Bellbirds, Red-crowned The island enjoys a much milder Parakeets and the friendly Day 4: Auckland Islands climate than most Subantarctic Tomtits. Yellow-eyed Penguins – Enderby Island Islands because of its location. also nest in the forest and under The Auckland Islands group was Our plan is to land at Sandy Bay, the tangled divaricated shrub formed by two volcanoes which one of three breeding areas Myrsine divaricata. You can see erupted some 10-25 million years in the Auckland Islands for the them as they travel backwards ago. They have subsequently Hooker’s or New Zealand Sea and forwards across the beach been eroded and dissected Lion, a rare member of the seal to their nests, especially in the by glaciation creating the family. Beachmaster bulls gather evenings. On the more open archipelago as we know it today. on the beach defending their terrain beyond the Rata forest we harems from younger (ambitious) find nesting Royal Albatross and The group is one of the largest males, to mate with the cows the endemic Auckland Island in the Subantarctic and has a shortly after they have given Dotterel. There is also a good chance of seeing the endemic Auckland Island Flightless Teal and the Subantarctic Snipe. Migratory waders (if there are any) congregate at Derry Castle Reef, and it is not unusual to observe Bar-tailed Godwit and Turnstone here. As we explore further we should also have the chance to see the following species: Northern Giant Petrel, Auckland Island © K Ovsyanikova Shag, Tomtit and Pipit and the WWW.HERITAGE-EXPEDITIONS.COM 4 [email protected] ROSS SEA, IN THE WAKE OF SCOTT & SHACKLETON ANTARCTICA wind and weather prevent us Petrel, Mottled Petrel, White- from doing this, other options headed Petrel, Cape Petrel, include a relatively easy walk to diving-petrel, Grey-backed an abandoned Coastwatcher’s and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels. hut and lookout used during the This is potentially some of the Second World War. If landing best pelagic ‘birding’ on the on the shores on the north arm expedition and for those with of Carnley Harbour where the country lists (of birds) we will be Grafton was wrecked in 1865, passing from New Zealand into the remains of the vessel and Australian waters. their castaway hut can still be seen. There are two other sites Days 7 to 8: Macquarie Island of interest that if we can’t land Australia’s prized Subantarctic at the above sites we might possession, it supports one of the consider. They are Camp Cove, highest concentrations of wildlife site of the official Government in the Southern Ocean.
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