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MAN AGAINST MOUNTAIN

New Zealand party camp on sea ice, Mt. Herschel in rear.

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Vol. 5, No. 2 50th ISSUE JUNE, 1968 Editor: L. B. Quartermain, M.A., 1 Ariki Road, Wellington, E.2, New Zealand. Assistant Editor: Mrs R. H. Wheeler. Business Communications, Subscriptions, etc., to: Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, N.Z. CONTENTS EXPEDITIONS New Zealand Mountaineering and Geology in Northern Victoria Land: Sir Edmund Hillary The McMurdo Ice Shelf Project: A. J. Heine Another Summer: Just as Long but not as Hot: E. C. Young Eleven Years of Temperature Records at Scott Base: Donald C. Thompson Japan South Africa Belgium France Chile United States United Kingdom Australia U.S.S.R 91,92 International Weddell Sea Oceanographic Expedition 101 Sub-Antarctic Islands Antarctic Stations, 13: Amundsen-Scott South Pole New Zealand's Head of State Visits the Antarctic: Brigadier Sir Bernard Fergusson New Zealander's Find Proves Antarctic Animal Life How Labyrinthodont was Found: P. J. Barrett The Role of Fuel in Antarctic Discovery and Research: Sir Charles Wright He Almost Became a New Zealander (E. E. Goodale] The Reader Writes Antarctic Bookshelf Society News June, 1968

OUR 50th ISSUE We have pleasure in presenting our readers with the fiftieth issue of "ANTARCTIC". The journal has been published quarterly since the first issue, in March 1956: this first number having 24 pages. The first number of volume 2, March 1959, had 44 pages, and the issue of March 1968, beginning volume 5, had 60. "ANTARCTIC" is the successor to the cyclostyled "ANTARCTIC NEWS BULLETIN", which first appeared in "August 1950 as a two- page foolscap naws-sheet. The last issue, the 20th. in December 1955, had 15 pages. The Editor v/ishes to take this opportunity to thank most sincerely the many good friends throughout the world who over these !7 years have by their interest and active help made the production of these journals possible, and the Editor's task a pleasant one. Special thanks are due to Mrs R. H. Wheeler and Mr J. Holmes (Bob) Miller, who for some years have given invaluable assistance in the editorial work .

SCAR X TRIBUTE TO P.E.V. At the "Polar Meeting" held under The 10th meeting of SCAR, the the auspices of the German Society Scientific Committee on Antarctic for Polar Research at Stuttgart on Research, is to be held in Tokyo from October 8-11, the normal course of June 10 to 15. The New Zealand dele lectures was interrupted for the pre gate will be Dr. R. W. Willett, who sentation to Paul-Emile Victor, Dir is Chairman of the Working Group ector of Expeditions Polaires Fran- on Geology. Dr. R. D. Adams will caises, of the first newly-founded also attend, as an adviser; he is Sec Weyprecht Medal of the Society. retary to the Working Group on The chairman, Prof. B. Brockamp, Solid Earth Geophysics. These expressed the organisation's high Working Groups will meet during esteem for the great French Polar the week prior to the full SCAR explorer. Paul Victor in February, meeting. 1947, obtained the permission of the French Government to organise two scientific expeditions, one to Adelie LOGISTICS CONFERENCE Land, Antarctica, and one to Green An Antarctic Treaty Powers Meet land. From this date onwards, Pro ing of experts on Antarctic Logistics fessor Brockamp recalled, French will be held at Keidanren Kaikan, Polar expeditions have been — and Japan, from June 3 to 8. Keidanren are — under the experienced guid Kaikan means the building of Fed ance of this capable and courageous eration of Economic Organizations scientist, who has developed new and the building has several confer techniques (in, for example, the ence rooms. Admiral Panzarini, ulilisalion of aircraft in polar ex RADM Abbot, and Sir Vivian l-uchs ploration and research) and has done are expected to be present at the so much by his energy, ability, lead meeting. The Japanese team will be ership, literary and artistic skill and headed by Prof. T. Nagata, and New — not least, his sense of humour, to Zealand will be represented by Mr. advance the world's knowledge of R. B. Thomson. the polar regions. June, 1968 ZEALAND'S HEAD OF STATE VISITS THE ANTARCTIC by BRIGADIER SIR BERNARD FERGUSSON ISir Bernard was Governor-General of New Zealand from 1962 to 1967. We are indebted to His Excellency for this lively account of his visit to the Ross Dependency, the first visit by a New Zealand Head of State to New Zealand's Antarctic territory; in fact, the first visit by any Commonwealth Head of State to the Antarctic.— Ed.l As I write, we have been back in of hot steak, coffee and apple-juice.apple-juice, our Scottish home for less than a WeWe saw saw nothing nothing until until 5 5 p.m., when week, and are still in the throes of thethe huge huge bulk bulk of of Cape Cape AdareAdare shoved unpacking. Yesterday I came across itsits snout snout above above the the clouds clouds some some fif- fif some relics of my visit to the Ant- teenteen miles miles to to starboard. starboard. An An hour or arctic in 1963, in the shape of string so so later later we we saw Cape Royds, and vests, and a green anorak modelled shortlyshortly afterwards afterwards we touched down on the red one which was issued toon on the the runway, runway, to to be be greeted greeted by me for the trip, and which I handed Russell Rawle, the Leader, and the back to Mr. Markham only with wholewhole of of his his team team bar bar the the cook. cook. I great reluctance. (I reckoned that hadhad met met Mr. Mr. Rawle Rawle a a few few months green would startle our local pheas- earlier in Wellington, when he had ants and woodcock less than red, learned what was coming to him: and would also be less provocative me. to the Ayrshire and Galloway bulls ,., . .. . , KT , ., with which these parts are infested.) We .We travelled rax'elle^ *%by Nodwell Nodwell cater-cater T ist T as I. was , resuming . pillar unpacking to Scott arrivedpillar the to Base, Scott cook ran Base, and up my and as standa: as we we """*" the "cw P°f.ue ap onarrived lhe Base the cook flagpole: ran up my a courtesy standa: on the Base flagpole: a courtesy -a* still a tending the whichwhich 1 I hadn-thadn't expected, expccted, so my village school when we left here for hncnmbosom cum>h»h swelled nil all tho the mr.r-0 more *,A+i> with pride. Drinks were followed by a ral letters from New magnificent dinner, which was also Zealand, there was one from Mr. attended by the Admiral and several Quartermain, asking me whether I of his officers from McMurdo. I was would write a short article for the accommodated in undeserved luxury fiftieth number of "Antarctic". I in the sick bay, and shewn how to found the coincidence irresistible; so block out the streaming sun, when here are a few memories of those I went to bed, by inserting a round eight happy days. This house, inci wooden shutter in my porthole. dentally, is only sixteen miles by Others on the Base at that time were road, and less as the seagull flies, Graham Billing, the author and from Stranraer, where Sir James broadcaster; Mr. Ponder, who had Clark Ross was born in 1800. designed the accommodation; and I left Christchurch at 10 a.m. on Captain (now Chief Inspector) L. D. the 6th November in a U.S. Navy Bridge, whose role wasn't clear to C 130, as so many others have done me at first, until I discovered that before and since, with Admiral Jim he was in charge of my safety. I Reedy (better known as "Sunshine") was never quite sure whether he who was then commanding DEEP wanted to stop me from falling down FREEZE, Mr. Markham and several crevasses, or whether he was praying others. We left the coast at Oamaru, that I should do so, to give him the and lunched at 1 p.m. off a vast meal fun of hauling me out again. June, 1968

Having slept gloriously among all wind there, and we had to content the medicines, 1 thought 6.30 would ourselves by talking to the New Zea be a reasonable hour to get up; so land Leader there by radio. Instead, I pulled the shutter from the port we flew on and dropped supplies to hole, and was astonished afresh by the Northern Party under the re the brilliance of the sun and of the doubtable and legendary Mr. Miller. colours. I spent the forenoon looking I included in the drop a bottle of round the Base, visiting the work whisky, one of a few dozen I had shops and the laboratories, and brought out with me from Scotland making the acquaintance of the hus from a firm called Whigham, Fergus- kies. Most of them were out with son & Cunningham; the Fergusson the Northern and Southern field par concerned was a second cousin of ties, but there were about twenty at my Father's, whom I remember from Scott Base: engaging and friendly to my boyhood days. Nothing would humans, but savage to each other. have astonished him more than to I had not realised that they had to know that a bottle of his product be shackled to individual chains, had descended by parachute on to a each chain in turn being shackled snowfield in Antarctica. I heard some on to one great circular chain dug years later from Mr. Connor, the into the ice, in order to keep them Town Clerk of New Plymouth, that out of biting distance of each other. his nephew was among the recipients, I learned that their rations were a and had brought the bottle, complete chunk of sealmeat every other even with label, but not with contents, ing. The men in charge of them had back to civilisation. That would have only taken them over a few weeks pleased my cousin, too. before, but were in love with them already; and I don't wonder. On the way back, we looked from the air at the great brown stains on In the afternoon I was taken for the ice by Coulman Island, which a tour of the "pressure ridge", that betray the presence of a big colony jagged irregular wall of ice thrust of Emperor penguins. It was on this high into the air by two converging day that I remarked for the first currents. Captain Bridge had walked time the astonishing variety of Ant the course that morning, and marked arctic ice, when seen from the air, it out with flags. There were caves which earlier travellers couldn't do. and caverns of all shapes and sizes, It comes in every shape, colour and and ridges, hollows and overhangs. consistency. Sometimes it is just The colours varied from blinding solid white. Sometimes, when break white to sea-green and Cambridge ing up, it looks like a jigsaw puzzle blue, and the shapes from spikes and on a table which somebody has humps to whorls like a sea-shell, or jogged. Sometimes, on a flat expanse a heavy sea about to break. Our ex of ice, you can see future icebergs, ploration of the pressure ridge, which of any size up to a couple of miles: I gather is the opening treat for huge, flat, regular, never jagged, every visitor, lasted some two hours. looking on a gigantic scale like chips What with a hip which is slightly off the top of an iced cake. Some unreliable from a war wound, and times also you see a lead of open the three layers of thick clothing water, dazzlingly blue. And some which made me look and feel like an times, over huge areas, the ice is dis advertisement for Michelin tyres, my coloured and brown; it reminded me "going" over the course was not im of flying over that dirty-coloured pressive. I am, in any case, no vastness of desert in Southern Iraq, chamois. around Ctesiphon. I won't recount every other day in On other days we flew by helicop detail, though each was fascinating ter to Cape Evans and Cape Royds, in its own right. We failed in an and saw the huts of Scott and attempt to land at Cape Hallett: Shackleton. It was a great grief to there was a 45-mile-an-hour cross me that my old friend Sir Jameson June, 1968

Photo: H. D. O'Kane. SIR BERNARD WITH THE BOYS A meal at Scott Base.

Adams, R.N.R. (who was everywhere deaths of Mackintosh, Hayward and known as "The Mate", from his habit Spencer-Smith, securely held by a of addressing everybody in his main cairn which has enabled it to resist top voice as "Mate!") had died the half a century of blizzards. A plaque year before, aged 82. I would have had been prepared there for me to enjoyed telling him that I had seen unveil, "to the glory of God, and in the very bunk in which he had slept pious memory;" and this too was a during his time with Shackleton. moving moment. Nobody could visit these huts with We visited the Pole, in unpleasant wcauici win* ci uuviiig wiuu iiuimiiu the biting particles of ice; but who were we to complain, who had flown I milk, copies ol tne Christ there in comfort in a few hours? My church paper and the "Illustrated first impression was that all the men London News" and so forth without manning the station were much too being deeply moved. The world old to be there, wtih their grey around is frozen, and so in a sense beards and moustaches; and then I is Time, within those huts; and yet realised that this was frost, and that they still radiate the warmth of com my own moustache had in a matter radeship and of perils so gaily shared of seconds become solid ice. Here all those years ago. again my standard was run up at the Just above Scott's hut is a Pole itself, this time by courtesy of wooden cross commemorating the the Americans; and I took a short June, 1968 stroll round the world, ten yards out for the quality of the scientific divi from the Pole, traversing without a dend of New Zealand's much smaller visa the Russian, French, Belgian, investment. I was present, incident Chilean, Argentinian, Norwegian, ally, at an emergency conference held Australian and perhaps other sectors in the Admiral's quarters to decide of Antarctica. I was proud to meet what to do about a New Zealand the two New Zealanders at the Pole. naval rating in one of the weather I was also glad to get off safely, as ships, who was suffering from a the wind had got up suddenly, and serious attack of appendicitis. The visibility was minimal as we got air Admiral and his officers arranged a borne. The runway is marked every rendezvous under the lee of one hundred yards by an empty oil-drum, of the sub-Antarctic islands between but there was never more than one the New Zealand ship and an Ameri at a time in sight as the aircraft can one which happened to carry a gathered speed, with the co-pilot say surgeon. The boy was transferred ing "Starboard, starboard !" or "Port, from the one ship to the other; and port!" to his captain. as I flew back to Christchurch I We found Byrd Station, which we heard that the operation had been visited on another day, very much successful, and was able to radio my like the Pole, except that there were thanks to the surgeon and my greet no New Zealanders there. It too is ings to his patient (whose mother I happened to meet in the Chatham quarried out from under the ice; it Islands a few weeks later). This was too provided us with coffee and coca- an especially striking example of the cola and hot steaks; it too has a close relations between the two con hospital fitted with X-ray and every sort of elaborate medical device. Its tingents. most unexpected feature was the During these last few days of un fact that the chief scientist was a packing, other relics have come to bearded Japanese, and the station light: my films and slides; an album commander a Hawaiian — a lieuten of huge photographs beautifully ant in the United States Navy. bound by a disabled ex-servicemen's On yet another clay we flew by heli organisation in Wellington; and above all the model sledge made by copter over to the Dry Valley, and saw the hut where Mr. Prebble one of the 1963 party and given me the day I left. But I do not need (whom I had met at Victoria Univer these to remind me of it all. sity some weeks before) was shortly to take up residence for the second On the 19th October, the day be time, with a party. I left a frivolous fore I finally left New Zealand, I note for him, saying that I was sorry spoke by radio to this year's Party, to find him out; and we went on our in order to say "goodbye", just as I way. , had spoken to each year's Party on Penguins, seals and skuas were a every Christmas afternoon since my constant joy. So were the colours, visit. I could imagine them sitting and I can testify that Mr. Peter Mc- round the loudspeaker in the familiar Intyre has not exaggerated them one mess-hall which I remember so well, bit in his beautiful Antarctic paint and in which, in November 1963, I ings. So was the astonishing visibil read out to the then party the mes ity, which brought mountain ranges sages which I had exchanged with seventy miles away within the ap Her Majesty The Queen, and passed parent distance of eight or ten. on to them her greetings. I returned from the ice rather Some of them, including the cook, ashamed at the great comfort in were the same men, gone back for which I had been enabled to live, yet another taste of that extraordin and immensely proud of New Zea ary, and so different, world. New land's achievement down there. The Zealand does well to be proud of Americans, with their much larger these men, and I count myself hon contingent, were full of admiration oured to have known them. June, 1968 NEW ZEALANDERS TO WINTER OVER AT VANDA STATION The long-awaited decision has been made. This year a team will winter over at the small station erected last summer at Lake Vanda in the Wright Valley. By dint of rigid economies and the cancellation of several planned field journeys, this will be done without any additional finance being required. This is potentially one of the most tion was prevented by the urgency scientifically important develop of other important projects, and the ments in Antarctic research opera scheme fell through. tions for several years. It has long Could New Zealand undertake the been recognised that to discover the project alone? The cost of the erec reasons for the nature, in fact for the tion of a base seemed to be an in very existence, of the remarkable superable bar until it was realised Dry Valley systems in Antarctica, it that there were two huts which would be necessary for a party to could be transported to the winter in one of these valleys. valley in sections, and which Since the discovery of the group were not now required for of "Dry Valleys" sometimes called the purposes for which they had the McMurdo Oasis by Scott's West been erected. Interest was now re ern Party in December, 1903, several vived, and the Ross Dependency Re British and New Zealand teams as search Committee secured Govern well as scientists from other nations ment approval to implement a plan have explored the Taylor, Wright, which promised important results Victoria and other valleys of the for a very moderate expenditure. system*, but all these visits have been relatively short summer forays. NEW BASE SITE WIDESPREAD INTEREST A site was selected in the 1966-7 It was not until three years ago summer by the Superintendent of that growing interest in the many the Antarctic Division and Mr. J. H. problems presented by the Dry Miller, and in October two huts were Valleys led to tentative plans for a packed and air-dropped in five winter sojourn in the heart of the R.N.Z.A.F. flights on to the ice- Dry Valley system. New Zealand was covered lake, near the site. One, to clearly the country most under obli serve as the laboratory, was the gation to investigate fully these auroral radar hut on Arrival Heights; puzzling phenomena in her own Ross the other, designed as a stores hut, Dependency. But several other coun was built at Scott Base. A team from tries were also intensely interested, Scott Base with two Antarctic and the United States, the Soviet Society volunteers erected the huts Union and Japan were all anxious in three weeks. to take part in the solving of the The economic situation led the problems by wintering in one of the Government to veto the proposal for valleys. a winter occupation of the huts in Considerable discussion in 1964-5 1968. However, the disused biological led to the formulation of a tentative hut at Cape Royds was dismantled in plan for a combined expedition to February, 1968, taken by helicopter the Wright Valley comprising to an American ice-breaker off shore, American, Japanese and New Zea shipped across McMurdo Sound to land scientists. American parlicipa- the Wilson Piedmont, and then flown * See "Antarctic", vol. 4, No. 12, Dec, 1967. by helicopter to Marble Point and pp. 590-593. secured for the winter. Later this June, 1968 year it is proposed to transport the has, therefore, no outlet. And its hut by a land route to the Vanda bottom water is warm (77°F) and site. very "salty". Vanda is about 78 miles from Scott WINTER, 1969? Base. It is situated in lat. 77° 32' S, When the preparation of the next long. 161° 38' E. five-year plan for New Zealand Ant- arctice research emphasised the great importance of the Dry Valley project, it was found possible, by various economies and a pruning of AT SCOTT BASE summer field activities, to plan a winter programme at Vanda Station W I N T E R C L O S E S I N without increasing the over-all cost We are privileged to quote from of the year's work. Government ap the monthly "Newsletter" forwarded proval of the R.D.R.C. plan has now by radio to Wellington and distri been announced and preparations buted by the Antarctic Division to are in hand for the manning of the friends and relations of the winter station during the 1969 winter. There party in many parts of the world. will probably be five scientists win The speaker is Scott Base leader Bill tering-over at Vanda, one an Ameri Webb. can, with a certain consequent re From the end-of-March issue: duction of personnel at Scott Base. (After the departure of the last While popular interest has chiefly plane.) been centred on the numerous finds "We were soon brought back to of seal carcasses on the valley floor reality with a jolt as the temperature up to 45 miles inland, and on the dropped rapidly to a chilling minus spirited American-New Zealand con 33 degrees centigrade, within a week troversy over the cause of the high from the previously mild level (to lake temperatures at depth, the us anyway) of about freezing point. meteorological observations will be The wind increased in velocity and eagerly awaited and the investiga for several days maintained a steady tions in the fields of Physics, Chem 40 knots. Fortunately the sea ice in istry, Seismology and Gravity will front of the Base had broken up arouse intense interest in scientific and floated out to the North and circles in many parts of the world. thus we were saved the onslaught To keep the station as electrically and drifting up from the wind blown snow that usually accompanies such "quiet" as possible, the 12-volt D.C. battery power supply will be main gales. tained with a wind-driven generator, "We now began our various pre parations for the winter so as not backed up by a small capacity motor To be caught by an early climatic generator for use during calm periods. Radio communication with change. The two mechanics were New Zealand via Scott Base will be bi provided by 20 watt H.F. transceivers CllC'l_Mll and possibly U.H.F. sets. that would be required later. Champ- ness had the most unenviable task Vanda Station is situated 150 of cutting up the fifty seals that had yards south-west of the lake after been shot for clog meat. This involves which it is named, and which occu long hours outdoors, first cutting the pies the lowest part of the valley. carcasses cross-wise with a chain It is 30 feet above the lake level, saw, then chopping the blocks into and 120 yards from the Onyx River. about 6 pound lumps, which are fed This river now flows only in mid to the dogs every two days. summer. It is 18 miles long, and "An amenity that has been advo flows west from the Wilson Pied cated for many years and has finally mont Glacier into the lake, that is, reached fruition is that of a shower. what would normally be called up After a considerable amount of dis the Wright valley. The strange lake cussions, sketching, measuring, argu- June, 1968

ing, amending and ultimately con AN INDEX struction, the unit has now been in to Volume 4 stalled by our electrician and the Postmaster, who took the roles of 1965-1967 has been prepared plumber and carpenter respectively. The set was provided by the D.S.I.R., and is available at and the whole production was dir 30 cents per copy. ected by all the remaining staff at We strongly recommend you to Scott Base who gave much needed forward the twelve issues making advice in a most unselfish manner. up volume 4 for uniform binding Fortunately most of this fell on deaf direct to — ears and all was duly completed by Express Stationery Co. the 20th of March. P.O. Box 3428, "Keeping a watchful eye over all Wellington. the science facilities is Ian Johnson, Binding cost: $2. the senior technical officer, who has started his twice weekly journeys ANTARCTIC F.R.S. again to the satellite signal receiver One of five scientists recently hut almost three miles away up on elected as Fellows of the Royal top of the Peninsula at Second Society of New Zealand is George Crater." W. Grindley, chief project geologist And from the end-of-April report: of the New Zealand Department of "The four pups born in December Scientific and Industrial Research. are growing very rapidly now and George was senior geologist of the it won't be long before Grahame has Northern geological and survey team them in harness with other dogs and of 1961-2, which worked in pulling a sledge. the relatively little-known area about the head of the Beard- "The sun has set below the hori more Glacier. The party sur zon for a period of four months and veyed an area of approximately our long winter night has really 11.000 square miles, travelling 500 begun. The transitional period dur miles by dog-sledge. ing which the sun was very low in We join in the congratulations to the sky produced some beautiful him on this deserved honour. sunsets with the Ross Sea to the north bathed in deep orange and red Among those attending the German hues, and the low cloud above re "Polar Meeting" was Dr. M. P. Hoch- flecting the splendid colouring of this stein of New Zealand, who discussed phenomenon. The flag was lowered the nature of the moraines under the and stowed away until the sun once Ross Ice Shelf near Roosevelt Island. more rises. We will have about a Dr. Hochstein, who worked for three week twilight interval but from U.S.A.R.P. before coming to New mid-May until mid-July all will be Zealand, became Superintendent of in darkness. the Geophysics Division, D.S.I.R., "The temperature has started to and at Dresent holds a temporary drop again and when we have to position in Chile. spend any length of time outdoors, within about 15 minutes our beards ONE UP FOR COOK are all frozen and caked with the ice Desmond Bagley on his return that has formed from our breath. from a visit to the Antarctic to gain It is not a little disconcerting to find first-hand knowledge for a novel: when we full off our jackets that the "Unfortunately, the weather wasn't fur on the hood has frozen to our the best and things were a bit topsy- faces and we are trying to pull our turvey. Strangely enough, the best beards off. We soon learn to let luncheon I've ever had was at Scott things thaw out for a few minutes Base with a bunch of New Zealand first." ers." June, 1968 MOUNTAINEERING AND GEOLOGY IN NORTHERN VICTORIA LAND by SIR EDMUND HILLARY [We are indebted to Sir Emund for this account, written specially for "Antarctic", of the expedition he led in October- November last year to Moubray Bay, Mount Herschel and then north up the Victoria Land coast to the saddle between Moubray Bay and Robertson Bay.—Ed.J For a long time I had wanted to newly designed insulated tents and take an expedition to Mt. Herschel two of their prototype snowmobiles. in the Cape Hallett area but knew The Antarctic Division generously I had little chance of getting trans lent us sleeping bags, down jackets, ported south in the face of official sledges, etc., and gave us the fullest reluctance to accept mountaineering co-operation in planning and logistic as a worthwhile objective. When support. Several thousand dollars Nick Clinch's American expedition was raised from the sale of press obtained the logistic support of the rights overseas. U.S. Deep Freeze Operation in a suc The members of the party were all cessful attack on the Vinson Massif experienced mountaineers: Sir Ed there seemed more likelihood that mund Hillary, Leader; N. D. Hardie, we in New Zealand might get trans Deputy Leader and surveyor; Dr. port south for a similar project. H. J. Harrington, senior geologist; Our application to the Ross De G. Hancox, geologist; M. R. Ellis, pendency Research Committee de engineer; M. White, engineer; Dr. tailed our plans to test new models M. Gill, movie cameraman; Dr. P. of insulated tents, vehicles and radio Strang, medical officer; B. Jenkinson, mountaineer. equipment, and our intention of rais ing all the finance ourselves. We were We landed at McMurdo Sound in advised in reply that our programme fine cold weather and it was quite did not have sufficient scientific con a thrill for me to return after an tent for permission to be granted. A absence ot nine years and find every good scientific programme effectively thing looking so much the same. carried out adds stature to an ex Scott Base leader Bill Webb gave us pedition but I am unchanged in my a warm welcome and he had all our view that a demanding and construc problems well under control. Scott tive adventure is worthwhile for its Base, although larger and perhaps own sake, especially if it is financially •more comfortable, was still easily self supporting. Fortunately Dr. Har recognizable and in excellent order. rington had a geological programme We all enjoyed our two days' stay. he was most anxious to undertake On October 21st we loaded our and Norman Hardie discovered there 6,000 lbs of equipment, food and fuel were some interesting survey prob into a U.S. Navy ski-equipped Her lems to be resolved. With these addi cules and took off for Hallett. When tions to our plans the RDRC leant we arrived near the spectacular a little in our direction and granted mountains around the Tucker glacier us permission. Admiral Abbot took over the driver's The Mount Everest Foundation seat and gave us a remarkable re made us a substantial contribution connaissance of the east face of as did the N.Z. Alpine Club. Sears Herschel and the Moubray glacier to Roebuck in Chicago donated eight the north. We landed at Cape Hallett June, 1968 ANTARCTIC

nal tension as we passed over them. Snow avalanches aren't common in the Antarctic but we had already noticed the debris of two large wind- slab avalanches nearby and weren't at all happy about the snow condi tions. Access to the Northeast spur was made up an impressive side valley with a steep icefall in its upper sec tion. On the crest of the spur at 3,400 ft we established an assault camp. Gill and Jenkinson spent the first night there and at 5.30 next morning set off up the mountain. They were both in fine form and one after the other they overcame the technical problems of the mountain — the first steep snow peak, the great ice wall, and the 1,500 ft slope leading 1 up to the north shoulder. On the shoulder they stopped for a brew-up and a meal and then continued along RDAM J. L. Abbot and Sir Edmund Hiilary the exposed north ridge. They trav on arrival at Cape Hallet. Mt. Herschel ersed across on to the snow basin behind. on the west face of the mountain and then abruptly up the steep 1,500 ft of the final rock cone. At very subdued by what we had seen. 7 p.m. they were standing on the Mt. Herschel is a wonderful sight sharp rocky spike of the summit. across the bay from Hallett — in Although tired they made amazing fact it is a wonderful sight from any speed on the descent and were back direction — and we felt the urge to in the assault camp soon after mid get to grips with it. We made a depot night. It had been a remarkable with most of our supplies beside the nineteen hour marathon of difficult airfield and then set off with ten technical climbing. Next day Strang days of food and fuel on our sledges. and White repeated the climb and At first the travelling was easy but found it equally demanding. It was then we struck pressure ridges and 25 hours before they were back in wide areas of deep snow and our their tent again. heavily laden Snowmobiles bogged Over the next few days we carried down and sledges lipped over. It all the equipment off the mountain was three days before we had base in steadily deteriorating weather. In camp established on the sea ice at whiteout conditions we towed loads the foot of the mountain only 17 with our snowmobiles across pres miles from Hallett station. The ice sure ridges and ice ribs, and flound seemed fairly thin and seals were ered our way back across the bay to having their pups all around. Hallett Station. I was vastly relieved Our first obstacle was the great when Murray Ellis and I brought in ice cliff surrounding the bay. To the last loads through a vigorous find a route we penetrated up a deep snowstorm and we were all able to crack beside the Ironside glacier past have a couple of days of rest and re tide cracks, melt pools and seals; organization. then up and down over ice blocks and crevasses to the ice shelf above Our next task was to try and reach the cliffs. From here a track was Robertson Bay on the northern made over long snow slopes that coast. Dr. Harrington wanted rock shuddered and snapped with inter specimens from this area to compare June, 1968

,^^'iuDpgC

Sledging up the Moubray Glacier on the easy surface in mid-glacier. Crash Peak in rear. with similar rocks in New Zealand sledges, finding new crevasses each and Australia to see if they would time we passed. The centre of the supply any evidence for the theory glacier gave excellent travelling and of continental drift. we stopped only for survey stations First we established a route across and brief snacks. Camp was estab the rough pressure ridges of Mou lished 16 miles up at the foot of Adare Saddle. bray Bay — a winding 32 miles of sharp turns and uneven surfaces with Once again a party went ahead on vehicles to be hauled out of holes skis through lines of crevasses prod and heavy sledges to be lifted back ding for holes and marking the best on an even keel. A series of tide route. Then we charged up through cracks separated us from the foot the flags like slalom skiers. The last of the Moubray Piedmont and we few miles up to Adare Saddle were crossed fragile bridges at maximum exhilarating travelling. Suddenly we speed while seals looked up in sur were on the crest with the ice cov prise. For several days we were im ered surface of Robertson Bay below mobilised by snow and whiteout and us and Adare Peninsula sweeping we could hear seals gurgling under away to the north ... it was an ex the floors of our tents. It was a relief citing moment! to get safely established on the thick We split into two parties and over ice of the Moubray Piedmont. the next few days our geologists We reconnoitred ahead up the hammered at rocks and Norm Har glacier, prodding for crevasses and die carried out surveys from the marking them with flags. Then we summits of two sharp peaks. The charged through with vehicles and weather steadilv deteriorated and we June, 1968 were forced back over Adare Saddle The Admiralty Mountains offer and our tents were punished for magnificent opportunities to the three days by as energetic a storm climber and explorer. It is steep as I can remember. When the wind tough country with heavy precipita eased we started the retreat to Hal tion, dangerous crevasses, the possi lett in whiteout conditions. Several bility of large snow avalanches and feet of new snow on the Moubray — if our experience was any guide — Glacier; unexpected frights with cre r a t h e r v i g o r o u s a n d u n s t a b l e vasses; a broken drive shaft and the weather. We were in the area early resultant man-hauling; and the long so as to lake advantage of the ice in drive back over the deteriorating bay Moubray Bay. Conditions later in the ice — all combined to make this a season could be much more stable memorable journey. It was pleasant but some form of aerial support to stand on stable land again. would be necessary.

THE McMURDO ICE SHELF PROJECT by A. J. HEINE*

When the McMurdo Ice Shelf Pro distances between the three bamboo ject was proposed in June, 1962, it markers (the sides of the "strain tri was then considered that this parti angle") have been measured. From cular ice shelf would serve as a the changes to the original measured model for larger ice shelves else distances it has been possible to cal where in Antarctica, and the survey culate the degree and orientation of results would be useful in planning the maximum compression and ex future glaciological projects. Al pansion of the ice in each part of though a great deal of analysis work the Ice Shelf. By also measuring the is still required it is evident that the angles from one corner of each tri McMurdo Ice Shelf is an extremely angle, to survey beacons set up on complex one. surrounding land points, the actual As the Ross Ice Shelf moves north speed and direction of movement of past Minna Bluff at about 2,000 feet the ice was calculated. The original a year a small part of it swings strain triangle network as set out around the northern end of While in the summer of 1964-65 was resur- Island to merge with the ice of the veyed this summer for the final time. Aurora and Terror Glaciers. By this Although the bamboo markers were, time the floating ice, now called the by this time, well buried under the McMurdo Ice Shelf, has slowed to snow, they were all located and the about 200 feet a year. However, as sides of the triangles measured. it moves west towards Scott Base A total of 70 movement stations the Shelf "spreads out" and the speed have now been set out on the 800 is almost doubled, but by the time square mile McMurdo Ice Shelf and it has reached the ice of the Koett- the survey of these positions has litz Glacier it has almost stopped. given a general flow pattern. The One of the basic aims of the Mc basic characteristics of the Shelf are Murdo Ice Shelf Project is to investi now known and the areas which will gate the relationship between the dis require further investigation are tortion of the ice and the direction obvious. in which it moves. This has been In five years of operation the Pro done by setting out a grid of three ject surveyors and assistants have bamboos grouped together in the made thousands of observations, form of a triangle. Each year the chained hundreds of miles and trav * Antarctic Division, D.S.I.R. elled about five thousand miles by June, 1968

Sno Cat and motor toboggan. We ice so that it became opaque and re have experienced a wide range of flected back most of the sun's heat. weather conditions on the McMurdo As this runway is built on ice with Ice Shelf. November usually brings an extremely slow rate of move several week-long blizzards, with ment, it should remain in operation better weather in December. Later for many years. that month, as the sea ice of Mc Murdo Sound breaks up and the warm sea water evaporates, we have low cloud around the perimeter of the Shelf (White, Black, Ross Islands and Brown Peninsula) with local T H E T O U R I S T S H I P snow storms in Windless Bight. One of the "Magga Dan" tourists February is usually overcast with who visited Scott Base last summer, infrequent clear days. Compared David M. Payne of New York, was with Plateau weather (I had five so impressed by "Scott Base and blizzard days there in three months) those in it", and "the noble and effec I am sure the McMurdo Ice Shelf is tive system of House-mice", that he a poor place to live. Scott Base itself persuaded his gifted wife to create is often in the clear, while a sea of two busy little house-mice — out of drifting snow covers the "workers" felt. He has asked the Antarctic out on the Shelf. Division to send them to Scott Base as an expression of his love for New Proposals to continue this glacio Zealand and the Antarctic. logical work in the next '"five year plan", are now being formulated. Some not quite accurate state There has been considerable inter ments in our necessarily rather hur national interest in our work and I riedly-compiled coverage of the Ant am certain that we can maintain arctic cruises of "Magga Dan" in this interest in the future. January and February require cor rection. An example of the usefulness of the McMurdo Ice Shelf Project work "Magga Dan" is very heavily con is shown in the establishment of the structed of steel and specially de Outer Williams Airfield. By mid signed for navigation in Arctic and summer the sea ice runway (for Antarctic waters, so the adjective wheeled planes.such as the U.S. Navy "wooden" which slipped in from a Super Constellation) is usually in newspaper source was obviously in poor condition and if these flights correct. are to be maintained, an alternative The initial approach to Lindblad runway is required. An attempt was Travel Inc. was made by Captain made to harden the snow of the Ice Shelf by rolling but no success J. F. Holm of Holm and Co. Lta. of was achieved so alternative sites Wellington, New Zealand, who were responsible for the New Zealand-Ant were investigated. Our work had arctic section of the tour organisa shown that west of a line from Ob tion. servation Hill to the gap between Black and White Islands, there was An inspection of the hull in the practically no snow-fall at all and Calliope Dry Dock in Auckland in consequently little snow drifting March showed no damage to the would occur. The ice surface was ship's hull by the stranding off Hut hard and should be ideal for an air Point, near where Scott's "Discov field. However, the temperatures ery" grounded at about 11 a.m. on were so high during mid-summer February 17, 1904. The newspaper that melting occurred. The airfield report of "rasping noises" as "Magga was nevertheless set out and first Dan's" hull plates and keel "scraped used in February, 1966. The problem on the volcanic rock shoal" would of melting was solved the following seem therefore to have had little summer by lightly scraping the clear foundation in fact. June, 1968 ANOTHER SUMMER: JUST AS LONG BUT NOT AS HOT by E. C. YOUNG3

This year's work departed so far The second study of special inter from intention (see Antarctic Vol. est, and which complemented that 4, page 598) in important areas that being done by Morgan Williams, was it now seems necessary to review to follow in detail the movement of what was done so that not too many birds and the changing pattern of are misled. their territories each day in the 30 or so skua pairs in one section of Five worked at Bird during the the rookery. There were enough summer but, except for a month temporary liaisons, gory fights with when John Darby and I overlapped, sexual overtones and pair changes only four were present at any time. to make "Peyton Place" appear by The party was withdrawn from Bird comparison a model of sobriety. on February 15; about a fortnight too early for those working with John Darby arrived at Bird in mid- skua. All studies were of terrestrial December to finish filming sequences animals and four of the five were of the skua-penguin study. The very of different aspects of the general large influx of penguins during the study of skua-gull-penguin relations; re-occupation period following the other was of movement and dis earlier low breeding numbers caused numerous upheavals through the persal of Collembola. rookery and gave exciting filming of this perplexing aspect of the penguin My own work on the relationships of the two birds, and especially of cycle. The weather late in summer the effect that skua prcdation has was uncharacteristically bad, with on the penguins, followed much the long periods of heavily overcast same pattern as last year (summar skies, and filming was seriously re ised in a recent article in Tuatara, stricted. However, the very fine se Vol. 15, pages 142-148). It considers quences observed and, hopefully, the breeding success of the penguins filmed of penguin fighting and its (the prey) under a wide range of effect, and of skua behaviour about conditions and, by direct observation, the nest, especially during chick the habits of the skua (the predator) feeding and chick fighting, made on their territories harassing pen John's summer valuable for us all. guins. The most interesting aspect of this study attempted during the Morgan Williams looked into two aspects of skua breeding—the selec past summer was in establishing and tion and maintenance of the terri proving a system of recording skua tory, requiring ability in band-num behaviour about penguins to provide ber reading, mapping and the intelli a continuous recording for each skua gent use of field-glasses, and factors of not only the period of interest in determining chick survival in two- penguins but also the intensity of chick families. This latter study was interest. In other words, the system also mainly observational but in provided an index of skua aggressive cluded experimental work in testing ness for each bird through the sum the aggressive drive of the chicks. mer. About 10 pairs of skua were These studies will be written up first watched, allowing no time at all for as an M.Sc. Thesis. sleeping and little time for anything else. While Morgan's work was obtain ing useful information of one side * University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New of the skua-penguin association Eric Zealand. Spurr was adding to it at the other. June. 1968

He soent the summer banding and animals migrate to more favourable watching penguins in an attempt to places, migrate deep into the soil determine firstly the usual behavi or die out when feeding areas dry oural postures and sequences in pen in summer. guin fighting and secondly, the ad All in all this was another very vantage to the penguins in having successful summer notable for good such a thing as a re-occupation results, no internal domestic or poli period late in summer with a resurg tical troubles, better food than usual ence in breeding activity. During this but much poorer weather. The only period the successfully breeding real disappointment was the failure birds with chicks are badly dis of the "Magga Dan" to visit Bird turbed by the new birds coming and allow us the pleasure of show among them and taking up terri ing them what we are doing in return tories. This latter is an extremely for showers and wine. Next year's difficult problem and not one to be programme is now clearly estab answered in a single summer. lished and allows for myself the op- Jim Peterson, the fifth member at nortunitv to capitalize on the know Cape Bird, demonstrated the superb ledge gained over the previous three breadth of his education by switch years at Bird by bringing new, in ing at the last minute from a study experienced skuas on to rookery of the hormones circulating in the territories in order to compare them blood of the penguin during differ with those that have lived there for ent parts of the breeding evele, to many years. a study of the movement and dis Is it too much to hope that with persal of Collembola, the very small, the major break-through in the re very primitive insects that represent lationship between the Men of Ant this grouD in this part of the world. arctica and the women of the world This work should settle once and for that my field assistant next year will all the question of whether these be Mrs .E. C. Young?

Eleven Years of Temperature Records at Scott Base by DONALD C. THOMPSON1

Meteorological Observations com of the results of analyses that have menced at Scott Base on 1st March, been carried out on the records. In 1957, and have been carried out regu particular it was felt that those who larly ever since. We now have over had been fortunate in spending some eleven years of data, enough to give time at Scott Base might like to us a fairly clear picture of the aver compare conditions in "their year" age and extreme conditions to be ex with those experienced by others. pected there. The information given in Tables Of all the weather elements, tem 1 and 2 has been derived from the perature is probably the first to come tabulations of the Climatological to mind when we think of Antarc Division of the N.Z. Meteorological tica. Scott Base is neither the warm Service. est nor the coldest place in Antarc The warmest temperature record tica, but as there is a great interest ed was 43.7°F in January, 1960, while in activities there it was felt the coldest was —67.2°F in Septem that readers would like to see some ber of the same year. The variation * New Zealand Meteorological Service. Wel from year to year of the extreme lington, j temperatures was remarkably small, June, 1968 particularly when one considers how Table 2 gives mean temperatures variable the temperatures were from for the eleven years of records and day to day. For example, the aver therefore provides a good indication age range of temperatures within a of the average conditions to be ex given month is about 35°F in sum pected in any given month. The mer and over 60°F in winter, yet increase in average temperatures for there was only 8'/2°F difference be June is typical of Antarctic stations tween the highest and lowest ex in the Ross Sea although the effect treme minima over the 11 year appears more marked at Scott Base period, and a similar range occurs in than at other stations. Earlier ex the extreme maxima. planations linked this effect with the formation of the pack ice around This does not mean to say that the continent, but it is now thought there was little difference in weather to be connected with persistent fea conditions between years, however, tures of the general atmospheric cir as there was quite a significant range culation in the area to the east and of variation in the average tempera south of Australia and New Zealand. tures for given months, particularly in winter. Thus, the warmest July was in 1964 with an average tem TABLE 2 perature of —10.8°F, while the cold est July was in 1958 when the aver Mean Temperatures at Scott Base March 1957 to December 1967 age temperature for the month was —30.6°F. Monthly Mean Mean Mean Monthly Monthly As a further indication of condi Max. Min. tions experienced by parties at Scott Temp. Base the average temperatures for 22.3 4.3 the warmest and coldest months in 12.5 —16.4 each year have been extracted, and —5.8 —35.7 are shown in Table 1. On this basis —11.3 —44.1 the coldest month was August of —18.5 —53.0 1964 with an average temperature of —14.1 —48.9 —31.4°F. August was not always the —19.4 —54.2 coldest month, however, as in other —23.2 —60.3 years May, July and September —16.4 —52.4 achieved this distinction. —9.3 —39.3 11.5 —14.1 * All temperatures in °F. 22.8 + 1.9

TABLE 1* Surface Air Temperatures at Scott Base, Antarctica, March 1957 to December 1967

Extreme Max. Extreme Min. Monthly Mean MonthlyMean for year for year Warmest Month Coldest Month 1957 37.2 —58.7 24.8 —20.7 1958 41.0 —62.5 25.5 —30.6 1959 41.0 —62.9 24.4 —29.6 1960 43.7 —67.2 21.2 —24.5 1961 39.2 —65.6 25.3 —25.2 1962 35.6 —60.0 22.6 —27.4 1963 35.8 —66.8 21.9 —22.7 1964 35.6 —64.1 22.5 —31.4 1965 38.3 —63.8 25.7 —28.3 1966 38.5 —63.6 23.4 —26.3 1967 41.4 —60.0 26.8 —19.1 June, 1968 JAPANESE COMPLETE AUTUMN WORK AND PLAN FOR SPRING

OVERSNOW TRAVERSE sian scientists, including American A 9-man party led by Dr. T. Torii observer, Dr. McNamara, were in left Syowa Station on November 5, vited on board the "Fuji". 1967. (Not November 4 as slated in our December issue.) They used BODY FOUND three Model KD-60 vehicles and a We have more details about the small vehicle KC-20 which was left finding of the body of a lost scientist. at a site about 75° S. The parly to'ok On February 10, the body of Mr. a course roughly along 43° E longi Fukushima, who was lost during the tude, making observations on surface severe blizzard on October 10, 1960, morphology, glaciology, seismic pins was found by a party engaged on a pection, meteorology, gravity, mag geological survey. He was a member netism, and human physiology. They of JARE-4 led by Dr. T. Torii and were welcomed at the American was a cosmic-ray geophysicist. Plateau Station on December 14. A He was found at the western sukiyaki-party was held during their part of West Ongul Island, stay there, which lasted until the about 6 kilometres west from 19th. The party returned to Syowa Syowa Station. Exceptionally on January 15, 1968. During the light snowfall in the last few traverse it was found that the load- years, and good weather conditions, pulling capability was reduced resulted in the exposure of the body. in the area south of 73° S to the His frozen body had almost the ap Plateau Station because of soft snow. pearance of life. His body was Analysis of scientific data is now in burned on the site where it was progress. found and a funeral service was conducted at the Station. His ashes The expedition ship "Fuji" left and bones were brought to Japan Tokyo on November 25, 1967, calling at Fremantle from December 10 to by the members of JARE-8 who had 15. The first helicopter flight to wintered over, and handed over to his father, Professor Fukushima, or Syowa Station was made on the 29th. March 13, when the JARE-8 men re The members of JARE-9 numbered turned to the International Airport, 40, and four press-men and an Tokyo. His remains were buried be American observer, Mr. M. P. Spon- side the grave of his mother, who holz, were attached to the party. The relief operation was carried out with died last summer. out difficulty. "Fuji" arrived at the Station on January 13 and delivered THE WINTERING PARTY about 500 tons of cargo. The ship During the summer period, new left Syowa on February 3 and the living quarters accommodating 10 final evacuation flight was made on men were built and a new generator February 11. 29 men (including one hut (14 X 18 metres) for installing press-man), led by Mr. M. Murayama, 65 KVA generators was erected. were left at the Station for observa Twenty-nine men, including one tions during the 1968 winter. After newspaper man, under Mr. M. Mura leaving the Station, "Fuji" called at yama, are now settled in to their the Russian Station Molodezhnaya serene life after saying "Sayonara" on the 8th. Captain T. Honda, Dr. T. to their colleagues and ship's crew Torii, and Mr. Z. Seino (Leader of on February 11. A trip to lay a fuel the summer party of JARE-9) visited cache left Syowa on April 16. The the station by helicopter. Seven Rus 13-man party led by Mr. Murayama June, 1968 ANTARCTIC arrived at the destination, about 200 PLANS FOR 1969 km south-east of the Station, on the Dr. Kou Kusunoki (Chief, First 27lh. At an altitude of about 2,000 Section (Research), Department of metres and in temperatures of —30° Polar Research, National Science to 40° below zero (°C), the men were Museum, Tokyo) was appointed on all well. They carried out to the March 15 leader of the next expedi depot about 30 tons of fuel and tion, JARE-10. He has had two experi material, and also made scientific ences in JARE summer parties, but observations along the route. The this will be his first wintering. Dr. party returned to the Station on Kusunoki reports: May 6. A light aircraft attached to Syowa This was a preliminary trip for the Station will play an important role inland journey to the pole, which in surveying the sector between 35° will be started near the end of Sep and 40° E, including map-making, tember, and will be finished by the magnetic survey, observation of ice- end of February, 1969. The aims, thickness, etc. The Yamato Moun apart from constructing the fuel tains, some 300 kiklometres south of depot, were to test scientific equip the station, will be studied inten ment and to acclimatize to severe sively. The total number of the ex conditions. pedition will be 40, being 28 men for wintering, the rest for the summer. The "Fuji" closed her third Ant Screening of candidates is in pro arctic voyage (140 days, covering gress. Dr. Kusunoki will winter-over some 35,00 kilometres) on April 12. at Syowa in 1969, succeeding Mr. Her scheduled tasks were carried out Murayama. The expedition ship smoothly owing to unexpectedly "ruji" will cover the following good ice-conditions near Syowa Sta tion. Mr. Z. Seino and his 11 men of the summer party, Captain T. Honda Station-Cape Town (March 14-20)- and his 181 crew were all in good Colombo (April 5-9)-Tokyo (April spirits. 25). The scientific programme is on almost the same scale as in the pre vious year. A small aircraft will be "FUJI" RETURNS used during the summer for research Most of the shipboard scientific work. A reduced oversnow traverse programme was the continuation of will be made, including a geological previous years. It is to be noted that survey of Yamato Mountains. the first diving (with aqualung) was performed near Syowa Station by biologists during the summer season. Many biological samples and under SHOULD WE ALSO . . . ? water photographs were taken. A group of leading scientists from "Fuji" visited Cape Town between March 1 and 7. There were several Norway, Canada, the Soviet Union meetings with South African scien and the U.S.A. met at Morges, Swit tists, Belgian Antarctic expedition zerland, in January, 1968, to arrange members, and South African officials co-ordinated research into the distri in charge of Antarctic expeditions. bution and abundance of Polar Bears The ship visited Colombo from 23rd with a view to conservation of the to 27th March, where a symposium species, which is regarded as rare was held under the sponsorship of and endangered. A permanent inter the Ceylon Association for the Ad national Committee of scientists en vancement of Science. The ship and gaged in polar bear, research was the summer party returned to Tokyo formed. Plans for the exchange of on April 12. Meanwhile, the winter- scientific personnel were also dis overed JARE-8 party had returned to cussed. Tokyo on March 13, having flown The Antarctic also has its rare and back from Cape Town. endangered species. June, 1968 SANAE WAS THE BASE FOR WIDE-REACHING FORAYS This South African report of last summer's South African- Belgian Expedition stresses the extent of the field-work carried out despite much bad weather. For a Belgian report see page 82.

Having departed from Cape Town TRAVERSES on December 29, 1967, the members of the first South African/Belgian Both geophysical traverses, the one Antarctic Summer Expedition and by Hugo Decleir, geophysicist and the Ninth South African National veteran surveyor Jean-Jacques Der- Antarctic Expedition sighted the wael across the Jutul Glacier and Fimbul Ice Front on the morning of the other by Kobus Retief, geophysi January 17, 1968. cist and Brian Walters, geologist, experienced extremely poor surfaces, During the next few days aircraft and very slow progress was made and expedition supplies were dis man-hauling toboggans and sledges charged on the bay-ice in Muskeg- for long distances. The cross-glacier bukta and ferried to SANAE Base, profile of the Jutul was, however, some 15 km. inland, where a tem completed before the end of the ex porary flight camp was established. pedition; but the Rietief-Watters Following reconnaissance flights on party had to abandon their traverse January 25, a mountain base camp across the Schytt Glacier after being was placed at Jutulrora (72° 15' S, completely bogged down only 16 km. 0° 30' E) in the northern Sverdrupp from their starting point. They de Mountains. Bad weather limited ini cided on turning back and com tial supply flights by the Otter air menced detailed mapping in the craft to a minimum but fortunately vicinity of Pyramiden Nunatak, the those working to the east of the abandoned advanced depot of the Greenwich Meridian could be placed Norwegian-British-Swedish Expedi during those vital first few days. tion (1949-52). Continuous spells of bad weather along the coast and over the shelf In the meantime Tony van Auten- eventually hampered southward boer, geologist and leader of the flights to such an extent that the Belgian party, who was responsible surveying party only reached base for the organization of aerial sup camp on February 4. port and aerial photography of the expedition, mapped the region of the In the meantime all other parties Straumsvola. The surveying party had been placed and very good pro comprising Ron Kirkland and Eddy gress was being made by the Wal- Bosman completed photogrammetric ther Loy-Wilf Hodsdon party map terminal measurements with MRA-2 ping in the Sverdrupp Mountains. tellurometcrs in the vicinity of the The planned investigation of the Kir- base camp, bul the main carto wan Escarpment by the leader of graphical project which would have the South African summer group, commenced after the return of the D. C. Neethling, and his fellow geo Decleir-Derwael party to base camp logists Charles Kingslcy and Anton and which involved the placing of Aucamp, however, had to be can movement markers across the Jutul celled owing to lack of time and this Glacier and an aerial survey, had to party was placed in the Borg Massif be abandoned owing to limited time from where they mapped northward and logistic support problems. Be towards the Ahlmann Ridge. fore the close of the summer expedi- June, 1968

tion the Cessna completed the photo A NEW SANAE graphy of the Sverdrupp Mountains The planning of a new base at and part of the ice front to the north SANAE, to be erected during 1969, of SANAE; the oblique and vertical is now taking place. The existing runs in the Borg Massif and Ahl- base, situated at 70° 18' 32" S, 2° mann Ridge could not be made. 21' 30" W, was erected at the begin ning of 1962 and couupied on 11 Feb ruary 1962. Provision was then made THREE AT ONCE for 16 bedrooms. In the new base Evacuation of the summer parties there will be room for 20 expedition commenced on February 12 and the members. The base will also include M.V. "RSA" with the members ot a recreation room and for this pur the summer expedition and SANAE 8 pose a specialist was included in the on board sailed on the 16th for Cape South African 9th expedition. 'town. She arrived in Cape Town on The Japanese Antarctic research February 29. The Japanese ice vessel, "ruji", will again visit Cape breaker, "Fuji", also arrived in Cape Town during the first week of March. Town on February 29 and for the In a few years' time we may speak of first time in history three returning the traditional annual visit of the Antarctic Expeditions reached South "Fuji"! Talks between South African Africa simultaneously. and Japanese scientists during pre vious visits have proved to be most SYMPOSIUM fruitful and we are looking forward to the forthcoming visit of the On March 5 a highly successful "Fuji". symposium on Antarctic scientific programmes was held in Cape I own. FIELD PROGRAMME l'his symposium was attended by Antarctic scientists from Soutn (SANAE 9) Alrica, Belgium and Japan. Pro After the departure of the joint gramme co-ordinators handling the summer expedition a field party com various Antarctic programmes in prising Aucamp and Watters, geo South Africa also attended. The suc logists, and Bosman, surveyor, con cess of the symposium can be mea tinued detailed mapping in the re sured by the fact that all agreed that gion between the Borg Massif and it served an extremely useful pur the Ahlmann Ridge. During nearly pose and that it underlined the co four weeks of favourable weather operative spirit which prevails this small party using a dogteam and amongst Antarctic Treaty nations. It toboggans made very good progress was agreed that this type of meeting and gradually moved northwards to should be encouraged in iuture. wards the volcanic outcrops of the On the following day a meeting of Straumsnutane (71° 35' S, 1° 15' W). Here, long spells of bad weather programme co-ordinators was held and a discussion on the manage necessitated a return to SANAE. ment of scientific programmes pro Pre-winter fieldwork included the vided co-ordinators with an oppor commencement of a long-term geo- tunity to stale their specific prob physical-glaciological project on the lems. As a result, changes in man Blaskimen Ice Dome near SANAE agement are now under considera and the collection of stable isotope tion. samples along the inland traverse from SANAE. The results of the summer pro gramme are to be published under Arrangements are also proceeding the auspices of the South African- to establish a four man wintering- Belgian summer expedition, each over base in the Borg Massif from country remaining responsible for its where all future geological projects, own results and publications. There especially the planned investigation will be collaboration on the carto- of the polar escarpment towards the graphic-glaciological programme. Tottanfjella, will be done. June, 1968

reached Cape Town on March 1. BELGIAN TEAM Three of the Belgians now returned to Europe by air on March 7, while RETURNS the six others returned to Belgium T. Van Autenbocr, geologist and a fortnight later on the two expedi leader of the Belgian team, has out tion aircraft, which crossed Africa lined on behalf of Expeditions Ant- in 500 km. hops. arc tiques Beiges the work accom plished by the Belgian-South African HOMEWORK summer expedition. At various universities and other The Belgian party comprised five institutions work continues on the airmen and four scientists. The nine examination of material gathered by Belgians were able, in spite of bad earlier expeditions and on prepara weather, to carry out their allotted tions for the publication of results. half of the scientific programme in collaboration with the South African NEXT SUMMER? team. They provided all the logistic For the 1968-69 season, Belgium support with two single-engined air hopes to continue its Antarctic acti craft, a de Havilland Otter and a vities by another summer pro Cessna 180. gramme involving international co The Belgian component of the ex operation. pedition worked in the vicinity of the South African SANAE base, and in the mountain area 300 km. from the base. Three blizzards, with winds A D E L I E L A N D rising to 140 km./hour (225 m.p.h.) We greatly regret the absence of prevented all flights on several days. any recent information about the Nevertheless the two aircraft flew work of the French Expeditions in 65 and 50 hours respectively, carry Adelie Land. ing men and supplies to the various The following press report on May geological and glaciological observ 25 probably supplies the explana ing stations, and facilitating air tion: photography of mountains and "No French mail has been received coastline. in New Zealand for a week. The last FIELD WORK mail received was on Sunday and was dated May 16." In the field of geology, samples of The delay was believed to be different kinds of gneiss were ob caused by the general strike in tained from several mountain mas France. sifs. The glaciologists obtained gravi metric and magnetic profiles across two enormous glaciers. The glacier flow was measured by the re-survey GARDEN FOR LIVING ROOM of markers. AT DUMONT D'URVILLE The men travelled in the moun This winter the men at Base Du- tains and on the glaciers using dogs mont d'Urville will be able to see and sledges flown in by aircraft. things growing in their heated living- room. HOMEWARD VOYAGE When "Thala Dan" sailed south The South African Antarctic vessel from Australia she carried a garden "RSA" left Antarctica on the return of indoor plants selected by the gar voyage on February 17 after a pre dener of the I.C.I. Central Research liminary air reconnaissance over the Laboratories, Ascot Vale. He planted pack for some hundreds of kilo them in peat moss in polythene metres, giving the ship's captain the troughs, and these were packed in a chance to select the best route back case lined with two inches of ure- through the ice. The vessel touched thane to insulate them against the at Bouvet Island, about halfway be extreme cold to be encountered en tween SANAE and South Africa, and route. June, 1968

CHILEAN PLANS DISRUPTION The disastrous volcanic upheaval 1968-1909 on Deception Island, necessitating the abandonment of the Chilean base I.N.A.C.H., the Chilean Antarctic there last summer, necessarily cur Institute, has announced that for tailed the planned programme in the coming summer the scientific many scientific disciplines. The only programme will comprise: project which could be 100 per cent completed with the Soil Biology pro Atmospheric Sciences: Meteorol gramme of Drs. Schlatter and Zeiss. ogy, geomagnetism and aurora. But the eruption itself and the con Biological Sciences: Soil science sequent dislocation of logistic sup (Robert Island), fish and bird port because of the necessity to use studies, benthic ecology. ships, planes and personnel in rescue operations, abruptly terminated Earth Sciences: Geodesy and car many important scientific investiga tography in conjunction with the tions. This with the rebuilding of Military Geographical Institute, the the Gabriel Gonzalez Videla Base, Naval Hydrographic Institute, the made it impossible, it is estimated, to Air Force Aerophotographic Survey carry out more than 60 per cent of and the Geodesy Department of the the planned programme. University of Chile, geology (Living stone Island), glaciology, gravimetry (winter 1969 from O'Higgins Base), SCIENTIFIC WORK oceanography and seismology (in stallation and "running-in" of a new The logistics of Chilean Antarctic seismological station at O'Higgins work are basically in the hands of Base). the Armed Services. The Army, the Navy and the Air Force each have CO-OPERATION the responsibility for one Chilean Chile may co-operate with the U.S. Antarctic base. But the major part National Science Foundation during of the scientific work is controlled the 1968-69 summer and the winter bv the Chilean Antarctic Institute (INACH) with the co-operation of of 1969 in the following projects: the Universities. During the 21st (1) geological research during the Antarctic Expedition the emphasis third stage of the Marie Byrd was on the biological sciences: Algo- Land Traverse; logv, Marine Biologv, Soil Biology and Ornithology. INACH was also (2) the provision of a biologist to responsible for Seismology and work at Palmer Station and on Meteorology. the new ship "Hero"; The only other body concerned with the organisation of scientific (3) the initiation of a geological and work was the Naval Hydrographic geophysical programme on De Institute which in the field of ception Island, to extend over oceanography controlled tide stud two successive seasons. ies and preparation for geodetic levelling. Helicopters were used to Last summer, during January and place triangulation points for a February, Dr. Hermosilla of the Uni future lellurometrical polygon and versity of Chile was invited by the soundincs were completed in two British Antarctic Survey to carry areas, Covadonga Bay and Potter out work on Signy Island and the Cove. South Orkneys in his field, Soil Science. During last summer also Sr. Oscar Gonzalez Ferran was invited It was announced on February 5 by the United States National that Viccalmirante (R) Dn. Claudio Science Foundation to participate in VIO Valdivieso has been appointed the Marie Byrd Land Traverse, from Secretary-General of the Chilean mid-October to mid-January. Antarctic Institute. June, 1968 PERMANENT U.S. PALMER II STATION OFF ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

The newest permanent re Palmer II's real christening, how search station in the Antarctic, ever, comes with its occupation dur the U.S. Palmer II, was officially ing its first Antarclic winter by six Navy enlisted men under Officer-in- dedicated by Rear Admiral J. L. Charge LTJG W. V. Kelley and by Abbott, Jnr., on March 20 this two members of the U.S.A.R.P. pro year. gramme. Replacing the temporary Palmer NEW BASE: NEW SHIP Station l'/2 miles away, Palmer II provides a three-storey biological More details of the new research faclity with living quarters and galley vessel, "Hero", the 125-ft. trawler- in place of the pre-fabricated metal- type wooden vessel that is to support panel building and the converted research requirements for scientists British hut of its predecessor, com at Palmer Station, are now available. missioned in 1965. Palmer II is Planned for launching in South located on Anvers Island off the tip Bristol, Maine, on March 28, "Hero", of the Antarctic Peninsula. constructed with 22-inch thicknesses of white oak, the better to withstand Work on the construction of the ice pressure, will also have her hull new station, on its site of solid rock sheathed with the tough hardwood, bordered by the water and ice of Greenheart, to resist the cutting Arthur Harbour on the one side and edges of the ice. Equipped with diesel the ice and snow of a large snow engines, her "silent-ship work" sails field on the other, began last year will be ketch rigged with a main, a when a platoon of the U.S. Navy's foresail, jib and mizzen, which could Mobile Construction Battalion Unit also allow her to be manoeuvred 201 blasted a 128 ft. by 100 ft. site for under control should the engine be the biolab. facility. The building's damaged. foundation and subflooring was To support research work at erected and a cellular sheet pile pier, Palmer Station, "Hero" has facilities a road from the pier to the station for bottom and midwater trawls and site, and two fuel tanks were also dredges, for sampling bottom sedi built. ments, studying the microscopic life forms of the water column and This year the main buildings were investigating physical and chemical finished, and other facilities erected. characteristics of the sea. An antenna farm permits communi "Hero's" summer activities will be cations with the main American Ant support. In the off seasons she will arctic station at McMurdo and with be used for surveys of fish, seal, Balboa (Panama Canal Zone); a whale and bird movements. Trans small boat ramp, ruel lines and most portation between Palmer Station of the helicopter pads are now com and Southern South America will be pleted, and the last move of mach provided, and placing of field parties inery and materials from Palmer in coastal areas. She will carry 10 Station to Palmer II was completed scientists, 10 crewmen. by personnel greatly assisted by the Coast Guard Icebreakers "South- wind" and "Glacier". THANKS Sincere expression of the appreci The main building was occupied ation of the risks undertaken by the for the first time on March 14. Air Development Squadron Six men Juno, 1968 who rescued Dr. John Brotherhood S C I E N C E S U M M A R I E S at the British Antarctic Survey Sta tion last December has been sent to A back-log summary of field re the U.S. Secretary of State, Dean search effected by the U.S. Antarctic Rusk, by the British Minister for Research Programme during August- Foreign Affairs. December last year is only now to The Minister's message, and others, hand. The various dry valleys of the including one from Dr. Brotherhood's area seem to have been the most father, Air Commodore Brotherhood, frequented parts, featuring in re R.A.F. (Ret.), have been passed on ports of biological, geological and to Cmdr. A. F. Schneider, pilot of geophysical research. A group of re the rescue plane and commander of searchers from Virginia Polytechnic VX-6, and to the flight crews. Institute collected 138 samples of soil, ice and snow in and around the dry valleys and report that the pre McMURDO viously-considered abiotic soil near a frozen pond in the Wright Valley College has come to McMurdo. The was found to contain not no, but U.S. Navy's Programme for Afloat some 20 million, aerobic bacteria per College Education (PACE) has sent gram. Aclinomycetes, also formerly five instructors from the Commis believed absent from dry valley soils, sion on Extension Courses of Har were found in great quantities. Geo- vard University to give navymen who are wintering-over there this season the chance to study and to get college Studies in the dry valleys, installing credits. and taking readings from already- A programme of 15 half-hour films, installed automatic recording equip textbooks, study guides and reading ment. The remote-sensing project assignments, will educate the stud carried out an infrared survey of ents in eight subjects of natural parts of these valleys. science, social science and the humanities, and 52 navymen have Under-ice scuba diving was car enrolled. Five days "on the ice" in ried out by scientists from Old Dom struction from the PACE tutors pre i n i o n C o l l — ; " • " ■ - ; ' pared the men for the six months' Miami, dch.... use of films, textbooks and guides, about by unusual oi and the tutors will return to Mc Diving for biological specimens was Murdo to review the work covered carried out by teams from Oregon before finally examining the navy State University, Iowa State and men. J Florida State Dnivr~ ' strenuously by M». .. <>; ,--,,,- team from the University of Washing TOO HOT ton. In eight weeks, this team made It may sound odd, but removal of 178 dives to depths of 55 m. to place heat, not its introduction or main predator-exclusion cages to deter tenance, is one of the chief problems mine rates of predation, and to evalu faced at the U.S. inland stations in ate and photograph the installations. the Antarctic. Penpuin studies by a John Hop Buildings erected below the snow, kins University team reported that or buried by blown snow, must keep there may well have been a total snow tunnels open, and the heat loss of this year's offspring of the generated by diesel motors, operat ing equipment and living conditions accelerates deformation and closure of tunnel walls. essary to house men throughout an At McMurdo, the new personnel Antarctic winter, has to have air building, comprising sleeping quar conditioning to keep the internal ters for 257, mess halls for 277 at a temperature down, and a cold stor time, plus all the other facilities nec- age room for foodstuffs. June, 1968 emperor chicks at Cape Crozier, pos cal damage in the Antarctic, reported sibly a result of the ice breaking up the Plateau Station doctor (see Ant and drifting off to sea with the still arctic, March, 1968). Emotional dis immature chicks. Another storm in turbances are what make men weep November destroyed large numbers in the Antarctic, says the U.S. Navy of Adelie penguins, their eggs and Chaplain at McMurdo Station. chicks at Cape Crozier. Penguin Men, he says, cry a lot in the Ant studies were also carried out at Hal arctic, more than on any other iso lett Station by a University of Wis lated naval stations he had served, consin project and a team from Iowa and loneliness is the main cause of State University. most emotional disturbances. Lt. J. Believed to be the portion of this W. Essinger is convinced that the planet most likely to be similar to presence of God is felt more deeply some of the super-cold, super-dry in ihe Antarctic than anywhere else, areas expected on Mars, Antarctica even among the brilliant young and in particular its dry valleys is scientists from all parts of the West the scene of pre-space-travel re ern world who comprise part of his search. Three biologists from the Jet congregation. Propulsion Laboratory, California, spent last summer measuring the EARLY ANTARCTICANS cold, the moisture, the wind velocity and the chemical nature of snow After the Wilkes expedition of 1839 and ice. Other desert area tests will — according to Dr. Henry M. Dater, probably follow these dry valley writing for "Ice Cap News" — one of tests, and it is possible that astro the first recorded Americans to ap nauts too may train in the area. pear on the Antarctic scene was a Experiments to produce a vehicle Leading Stoker from the Royal Navy, which could cope with the roughest named Arthur Quartly, who was a territory of the moon are being con member of Scott's Discovery Expe ducted in the Antarclic. dition of 1901-04.* Dr. Robert Cush- man Murphy is the next known American in the Antarctic, when he WAY-OUT SCIENTISTS was in South Georgia for four Remote field parties were busy months in 1912-13; Murphy's instruc during the last summer in the Ant tion of a member of the crew of the arctic. A five-man geological party ship in which he sailed, one Jose G. from Ohio State University worked Correia, in the techniques of collect- in the central transantarctic moun and preparing birds led to Correia's tains, mapping and measuring strati- returning later to South Georgia to graphic sections, and numerous fos work with a whaling company there. sil finds were made, including glos- "Bakewell" was an American who sopteris leaves and a fossil cave passed himself off as a Canadian in discovered under the Permian glacial order to join Shackleton's Imperial sediments of Mount Counts. This Trans-Antarctic Expedition, and Dr. cave measured 5 m. in height and Cook was with Amundsen's Belgica 30 m. in length, and pre-dates at Expedition. least Lower Permian. A four-discipline research party, WINTERING PERSONNEL the Marie Byrd Land Survey II 1968 group, studied botany, paleomagnet- U.S. Stations Scientific Support Totals ism, topography and geology, and Byrd 10 17 27 included two exchange scientists, one McMurdo 8* 186 194 from Chile, the other from the Palmer U.S.S.R. Plateau Pole 14 21 THE DOCTOR SAYS 32 227 259 Personality conflicts are much more hazardous than possible physi * See Wilson's Diary (Blandford Press): p. 286. June, 1968 BRITISH ANTARCTIC SURVEY HAS VARIED FORTUNES The most important event of the season for the British Antarc tic Survey was the completion of the new base at Halley Bay on the eastern shore of the Weddell Sea. HALLEY BAY The pilot, Fit. Lt. John Ayres, was The relief of Halley Bay was car- unhurt. Ayres joined the field party ried out without difficulty by the and sledged to the small advance "John Biscoe" and "Perla Dan" in base hut at Fossil Bluff m George VI mid-January, in spite of the fact Sound. These three plus three others that the ice shelf had broken back are now having to spend the winter locally in February, 1967, leaving 40- there. M . , , ft. ice cliffs. Fortunately, a suitable The "Perla Dan arrived back at landing place reinforced by solid sea Southampton on March 11 and te ice, was found a short distance along "Shackleton on Apnl 30. The John the coast. Biscoe" is due to arrive in mid- The fieid party from Halley Bay May. which had been attempting to find vi&na a route to the Shackleton Moun- At the invitation of the U.S. Ant- tains, returned to base on March 7. arctic Research Projects Office, Dr. The area is so heavily crevassed that R. J. Adie, Deputy Director and Chief they came to the conclusion that it Geologist of the Survey, visited Mc- is impossible to reach the mountains Murdo Station and Scolt Base, overland, but although they failed to During his visit, he was able to reach their objective they covered observe geological and other projects much unknown ground and eslab- being undertaken from the two sta- lished the extent of Slessor Glacier, tions. A second field party laid depots along A United States' Observer, Mr. the route to the Vestfjella, and other Dana Bailey, visited Halley Bay on groups continued glaciological work board "Perla Dan", accompanied by on the ice shelf. Captain Peter Buchanan, R.N., of The new base, most of which was H.M.S. "Endurance". "Endurance" built during the 1966-67 summer, was (ex-'"Anita Dan") will be commis- completed, and the old base was sioned in June to replace H.M.S. finally evacuated on March 29. "Protector". U.S.N. Icebreaker "Glacier" visited ANiAKiiiuANTARCTIC rmiNauLA PENINSULA Chilean Halley ship Bay "Navarino" on February with 14 anda party the The John Biscoe reached the of Britjsh and American tourists led Adelaide Island base on February 20 b Peter Scott( vjsjtcci the Argentine and the Stonington Island base three Islands basc on February 15.

STATIONS TO BE OCCUPIED 1968 Personnel B D e c e p t i o n I s l a n d 9 E Stonington Island 13 F Argentine Islands 11 H . S i g n y I s l a n d 1 2 KG Fossil Bluff Summer occupa tion only from T orE T. Adelaide Island 8 Z H a l l e y B a y 3 8 SG South Georgia 7 June, 1968 IMPORTANT NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN AUSTRALIA'S ANTARCTIC WORK The new winter project on the Amery Ice Shelf, the new station at Repstat, and a significant change at the administrative level, add interest to current ANARE activities.

ADMINISTRATIVE CHANGE As well as putting the finishing In March, the Australian Federal touches to the Station, they were Government announced an import preparing for a 150 miles trek to ant change in the prosecution of its Southern Amery Ice Shelf. Antarctic Programme. Amery Ice Shelf personnel soon The Antarctic Division of the De became the fittest Antarcticans if partment of External Affairs has the amount of snow shovelling is been transferred to the Department any criterion. The station was being of Supply. continually dug out from drifts to The division has a staff of about eight feel high caused by variable 95 — nearly all of them in Melbourne. direction wind, March average being A further 75 men are at present in over 25 knots, maximum eighty. The the Antarctic. temperature by March was a mini mum minus sixteen, there had been a complete cover of heavy cloud for AMERY ICE SHELF three weeks but magnificent auroral PROGRESS OF NEW STATION displays including coronas had been Max Corry, the leader of the 4-man seen on the remaining clear nights. Amery Ice Shelf party, has given The doors were often blocked by some news of the establishment of snow and the occupants then used the new station, 300 miles from Maw the roof hatches. Tents pitched in son. February were being dug out in By February the temperature was March from five feet of snow. The down to 50 below freezing; winds hut looks like Paddy's' Market with were from most compass points, stores crammed around the walls reaching 60 knots, erasing any plans and roof. Dr. Sansom, chief cook and for restricting drift build up. Snowtrac driver, showed signs of One of the first tasks was excav his surgical training in handling a ating a store pit in the snow, digging drill, saw, hammer, etc., when con out by hand sixty cubic yards vol structing hut shelving from packing ume. Actually much more snow was cases and suturing canvas containers removed as the pit filled up every for tent pegs. night after knockoff. After a cover Collins directed the erection of a had been placed in position it had wind generator ex Mawson, which to be renewed as the cross bearers now supplies all micrometeorology, failed with the weight of snow above. Nickols has been busy getting the heating and power requirements. micromet. station operational, while Nickols has been busy chasing the others have been tripping around bugs in the electronic gear, but still the countryside, Corry on a survey found time to make a mine detector of the eastern side of the Amery to locate snow-buried objects, and Ice Chelf and Collins and Dr. Sam to operate the ham radio for Aus son collecting the main hut, sections tralian skeds. of which had been flown in to within Leader Corry, during bad weather, 30 miles of the Station, while the assembled a sophisticated radio re copter brought in the heavier sec ceiver, hoping to hear Radio Aus tions the complete distance. tralia successfully for the first time. June, 1968

STATION POSITION location with 20 feet high steel poles which will be erected over the Amery Amery Station position is 69° 27' Ice Shelf. 50" S lat. and 71° 24' 30" E long. WILKES DISCOVERY HOBART — DUMONT D'URVILLE An interesting report arrived from — WILKES the parly in late April. The four men, isolated in the Antarctic for 14 Neil Brightwell, now at Wilkes, months, had found ice-measuring gives us this account of the trip to equipment first set up in 1964. Wilkes in "Thala Dan". It was reported that the four-man "The trip down was constantly, Amery ice shelf expedition had found though not spectacularly rough, in intact a glaciological strain grid. terrupted by two pleasant diversions. The grid consists of a series of The first was at Hobart in the vain bamboo stakes used to measure ice hope of collecting certain Amery Ice movement. It had been feared lost Shelf cargo, when we stood off the in the storms of the past four years. Port for six hours. The second was a visit to Dumont d'Urville where we Finding of the bamboo canes were most hospitably treated by the means that the slow movement of the French. Amery ice shelf — one of the world's most dynamic ice shelves — can now "Three days sailing from Dumont be measured. saw us anchoring at Wilkes after an The Amery shelf is a floating sheet amazingly easy passage through the of ice as large as Tasmania and 1,000 pack ice, six hours compared to the five weeks experienced by the ship feet thick. in the previous year. The 1967 Party The Lambert glacier, which flows were surprised by our early arrival. into it, is the world's largesl glacier and drains a considerable part of "Hard physical labour for 12 to 14 Antarctica's ice cap. hours daily was the main feature Scientists say studies of these geo for the next ten days, unloading the graphical features are most import Wilkes supplies and building mater ant for understanding the degree of ials for continuing the construction stability of the vasl southern ice at Repstat. The Army DUKWs played mass and possible climatic changes an important role in transporting the which may now be taking place as cargo ashore. During the ten day a result of its influence. changeover period the weather was beautifully calm and warm, enabling They want to know whether the our two parties to add six buildings ice mass as a whole is expanding or to complete the main line at Repstat. contracting. Seven men will be spending a greater By this time owing to continuous part of the year at Repstat preparing bad weather causing caravans to be the buildings for habitation. completely drifted in, 100 feel tun nels were dug out from recent accu "We are now preparing to get the mulated drift, linking living cara Autumn field trip away by March 4. vans and hut. The snow roof which A glaciologist, two diesel mechanics, is several feet thick over six feet and three others will be spending high tunnels permits easy, comfort some weeks making echo sounding able access and provides convenient runs over the Dome and remeasuring extra storage. After completing mea snow accumulation stakes set out surements of the new strain grid in previous years, in an area of with near the station, Corry took many in 120 miles of the Base. The Diesel star shots in daylight determining mechanics are working long hours to the position above. The markers get the vehicles and caravans in placed in 1964 were located 6 miles order." S.E. of Ihe station. The first visitor The field party did get away on for a considerable period was a snow time and although progress was ini petrel who supervised remarking this tially hampered by soft snow and June, 1968 poor visibility, the work of the party MAWSON continued at a sure steady rate. How ever, during periods of bad weather After off-loading the Amery Ice and blizzards, the party was forced Shelf party, the 1968 Relief party to sit it out. arrived at Mawson at 2.20 p.m. Feb Early in March, Wilkes was visited ruary 12. The station was very tidy by the "Nella Dan" conveying the and free from snow — all were most 1967 Mawson party back to Aus impressed and happy to be there at tralia. All were pleased to discuss last. Unloading and induction pro their experiences with them and they ceeded simultaneously, irrespective in turn glad to be able to make tele of the continual katabatic wind from phone calls to relatives and friends the plateau behind. The station was at home. handed over February 19. Later in March, Diesel Mechanic Mawson is in constant radio com Bray, and Dr. Daff travelled 60 miles munication with other Antarctic to take extra essential supplies to Bases, exchanging weather and scien the field party, and they accom tific data. The Russians at Mirny rely plished the whole journey in one day. on Mawson weather reports to en Four men spent a weekend camp able them to fly over Mawson to ing out, travelling with a dog team their furthermost base at Molodezh to the old aircraft wreck and around naya. The leader sent the usual ad the local coastal regions. They cov visory message to the Russian leader, ered a distance of about 17 miles and added that he hoped the Rus and all appeared to enjoy the trip sians would land at our airfield at very much. Rumdoodle and that they would be Cosmic Ray physicist Bilson most welcome. The following was the launched a spectacular 60,000 cubic reply: foot balloon in March to obtain a "From Mirny to Mawson Base number of valuable scientific results. Please pass on to Mr Haram Base April was not a particularly in Leader stop the 13th Soviet Antarctic trepid month at Wilkes. The wind Expedition sends you and all our average of ten knots and the steadily Australian colleagues at Mawson decreasing temperature were affect many sincere thanks for your warm ing the seaside frontage. The sea-ice greetings and kind invitation stop had now formed and was proving a sorry we cannot visit Mawson this useful replacement, providing a short season as our following flight to route to Repstat by foot, and allow Molodezhnaya is going to be the ing dog sledging seal hunts along last stop we appreciate very much the coast. your kind help with meteorological Marking the S2 trail, four men set data for our planes and will always off on a drum laying trip to S2, 52 remember with pleasure your readi miles from Wilkes, to mark a trail ness to help stop would be extremely more clearly, but after encountering glod to meet you at Mirny and assure some electrical trouble about half you our hospitality in such case way, decided to return. would reach its summit stop with The Repstat correspondent report best wishes for a successful year ed that April proved a very indus and firm hopes for friendly and fruit trious and enjoyable month. The cor ful cooperation stop ridor now extends the full length of Signed V. Shamontyev Mirny Sta the new Station and all buildings are tion OIC." accessible without venturing outside. March commenced with a water shortage as the Mawson melt lake WILKES APRIL WEATHER froze and due to the unusually mild Met. data — maximum wind, 70 summer weather there was no drift knots south; maximum temperature snow for the water melter. Later, the 33.2°F; minimum 14.0°F; fourteen year's first blizzard arrived and snowfall days. solved the water problem. June, 1968

The autumn field party of five men U.S.S.R. departed on March 26. Late in the (See following pages) month news received advised that the field party's progress had been 14th EXPEDITION hampered by severe whiteout and The Arctic and Antarctic Institute they now expected to arrive at Depot announced on April 13 that prepara B in eight to 10 days' time, the delay tions were well in hand for the 14th being due to weather and minor Soviet Antarctic Expedition. Further tractor troubles. research will be carried out in the fields of Meteorology, Aerology, Geo April was an eventful montn, pe- physics and Magnetism. In addition, 'nning with the formation of sea-ice an ice-drilling project will be initi un the fifth in Horseshoe Bay and ad ated, as well as an extensive pro jacent bays, but this was shortlived as a blizzard blew it out to sea the gramme of air-borne radio sound next day. It reformed in the fore ings. noon of April 9. The katabatic A sledge tractor-train will set out, dropped, deadcalm ensued and the manned by members of the Soviet- sea began to refreeze. The next day French Glaciological team, following with a temperature of 1.5°F the bay the same route as that initiated four was covered with ice. The sea-ice years ago from Vostok to Mirny. had now consolidated, was soon one Observations will be continued on foot thick and extended to the hori the Polar plateau to investigate zon. changes in the ice cover. There was a genuine fire alert at Geophysicists from the German 9.45 a.m. on April 8 at the transmitter Democratic Republic will again par hut, about Vz mile from the main ticipate in the Soviet programme. camp, where a serious fire occurred. All our practice was well worth it In December and the first part of as we had it under control in 30 January, Soviet Antarctic explorers minutes. Serious damage was only completed a month's trek of over 900 miles, taking scientific equipment, just averted and we were off the fuel and food supplies to the party air for some days. of scientists at the Vostok station, News from the field party at the at the "Pole of Cold". end of April was that blizzards and whiteout conditions had continually Aqualung divers descended to a depth of 500 metres and made a rich hampered the operations. collection of Antarctic fauna and flora. Ice Cap News, the journal of the American Society of Polar Philatel ists, in a survey of polar tourism, ANTARCTIC HYMN comments that more than 6,000 let ters were mailed by participants on At least, an Antarctic verse. The the two Lindblad expeditions of following verse was composed by Leroy Vogel, Padre at McMurdo in 1966 and 1967; that an unusually the 1966 winter. It was sung as part striking array of colour photos taken of the hymn "Eternal Father, strong on the 1967 Lindblad cruise can be to save" at the Scott Memorial ser seen in the September 8, 1967, issue of Life magazine; and that the sec vice in Wellington recently. ond 1968 vacation tour, to the Ant Creator Father, who dost show arctic Peninsula side of the contin Thy splendour in the ice and snow, ent, was to depart New York by air Bless those who toil in summer's on January 5, 1968, before sailing light from Punta Arenas in a Chilean ship, And through the cold Antarctic night. M/S "Navarino". The Falkland As they thy frozen wonders learn, Islands were to be included in the Bless those who wait for their itinerary. return. June, 1968 NEW SOVIET HEADQUARTERS BASE CHANGE-OVER COMING Soviet explorers in the Antarctic are gradually moving their centre. The change of headquarters station from Mirny Observa tory to Molodezhnaya will be completed during the 1969-70 summer. Mirny Observatory, 93° 01' E, the magnetic observations and measure first Soviet station in the Antarctic, the thickness of the ice cap. was opened in 1956, at the beginning Scientists believe that the sixth of the I.G.Y. Its position is not con continent has rich mineral deposits, venient for a major Polar research and a survey will be carried out centre. Strong winds blow in the some time in the future. So far the area of the Pravda Coast. explorers have been observing the Molodezhnaya, 45° 01' E, was established in February, 1962, on the weather, nature and the Antarctic shores of Alasheev Bay in Enderby atmosphere. Land. It lies between the Mirny and They have established the pecu liarities of the formation of snow Novolazarevskaya stations. It was a seasonal station only during 1962, cover on the continent, the forces but six men wintered over during which make ice floes and icebergs 1963. drift and obtained new data on the Now a township extending for two polar lights. kilometres along the coast of the The explorers use the shorl Antarc Sea of Cosmonauts is to be built at tic summer to penetrate deeper into Molodezhnaya, where a radio station the continent. Last year a group of is also under construction. More pre researchers left Molodezhnaya and fabricated houses, building materials reached the Pole of Relative Inacces and fuel supplies for several years sibility. In 86 days the tractor and will be taken to Molodezhnaya in sledge party covered over 1,800 miles. October. Most of the route lay through the Three Soviet research stations are central areas of the unexplored now operating on the Antarctic Eastern Antarctic. coast. The fourth station, Vostok, is located in the area of the south mag HEALTH RESORT netic pole, 875 miles from the coast, Soviet Antarctic explorers refer to n February, the 13th expedition set the Schirmacher Oasis, about half a up the fifth station, Bellingshausen, mile north-east of Novolazarevskaya on Waterloo Island. station, as "the first health resort in the Antarctic". They have been sun NEW SHIP bathing there and swimming in a The fourteenth Antarctic expedi small lake in which the temperature tion will use four ships. of the water was 59° Fahrenheit in The research vessel "Professor December and still higher in Janu Zubov", now being completed in the ary. German Democratic Republic, will The surrounding hills protect this make her maiden voyage to the Ant "health resort" from winds. The sur arctic. The ship is named after the face temperature of the ground in Soviet oceanologist Nikolai Zubov mid-October was 66° F, while the (1885-1960). average day temperature of the air The expedition will study cosmic about six feet above the ground was dust settling on the Antarctic, make 6.8° F. Early in January the surface meteorological, geographical and temperature once reached 104°F. June. 1968

NEW STATION VOSTOK A report from Vostok on April 30 A new Soviet Antarctic station told of a furious storm with winds named after the Russian explorer reaching a velocity of 27 metres per Faddei Bellingshausen has been set second. The base leader, Oleg Struin, up on Waterloo (King George) reported that this was a record Island, off the northernmost cape of "blow", outdoing the previous record Antarctica. Waterloo Island was of 25 m.p.h. in the 1958 summer. mapped for the first time in Febru Vostok situated 1,200 km. from the ary, 1821, by the Russian Antarctic coast at an altitude of 3,500 m., is expedition headed by Bellingshausen usually relatively calm for the Ant and Mikhail Lazarev. arctic. Work was not interrupted, but the This region is a new one for Soviet base was covered by snow scientists and a large number of islands were surveyed before the site for the new station was chosen. Bellingshausen station is convenient ly situated in a sheltered bay. It is CIRCUMNAVIGATION surrounded by rock formations It was announced on March 11 that which are of great scientific interest. the diesel electric ship "Ob" had com The eleven Soviet scientists and pleted a voyage round Antarctica, others who will be spending the Ant closing the circle at Molodezhnaya. arctic winter at the station are The "Ob" sailed a distance of over headed by the experienced polar ex 12,000 miles in about three months. plorer Arnold Budretsky. They are The ship brought building materials, conducting hydrological, glaciologi scientific equipment and food sup cal and meteorological observations. plies for Molodezhnaya. At the time of her previous visit to the station The men at Bellingshausen wel last December, difficult ice condi comed their first visitors at the end tions prevented her from unloading. of February, when two helicopters After leaving Molodezhnaya, "Ob" flew in carrying men from the neigh landed a new team of explorers and bouring Chilean base, Arturo Prat. cargo at Novolazarevskaya and later Radio communications have been sailed for Leningrad. established with Mirny, Novolazarev Vodny Transport reported on April skaya and Molodezhnaya, as well as 2 that the "Ob" had left Antarctic the Argentine station Almirante waters. Autumn had by this time Brown. brought storms, snow drifts and in On March 1, Bellingshausen Station tense cold. "Ob" had off-loaded 1,000 reported an unusual Antarctic pheno tons of cargo at Molodezhnaya, three menon — a shower of rain. The sta days earlier than planned, then sailed tion later reported the presence of to Novolazarevskaya on the Queen seals, leopard seals and sea ele Maud Land coast. "Ob" was held in phants, and nearly a dozen fur seals. the ice for some time, and all un loading was made difficult by violent The new station, Bellingshausen, winds and the breaking up of the on Waterloo Island, consists of eleven ice. The work was completed, how small buildings which include labora ever, on March 31. tories and a radio station as well "Trud" reported on May 11 that as mess-room and living quarters. the "Ob" had arrived at Leningrad after a cruise lasting 200 days and covering 35,000 miles, 3,000 of them in Antarctic waters. In the course of This year scientists from the the circumnavigation of the Antarc United States, Argentina and Bul tic continent which ended at Molod garia are wintering at Soviet Antarc ezhnaya, "Ob" had crossed the Ant tic stations. arctic Circle eight times. June, 1968

Official U.S. Navy photo: Conklin. POLE STATION NOVEMBER 1958 Note the burlap and board passage way.

surface and some black smudges on ANTARCTIC STATIONS the snow giving almost imperceptible i evidence of his presence and his curi AMUNDSEN-SCOTT osity. S O U T H P O L E S TAT I O N AN AUDACIOUS IDEA by HENRY M. DATER* At the time, no concept of the In ternational Geophysical Year seemed Scott, when he struggled to the iouth Pole, blurted out, "Great God! more daring than the proposal to his is an awful place. . . ." Admiral build winter stations on the polar plateau, where previously only a Jyrd, who flew over it in 1929, re marked: "One gets there and that handful of men had trod — and no is about all there is for the telling." other project had such adventurous appeal as placing a station at the Situated 9,184 feet above sea level, South Pole itself. More than the South Pole is surrounded by a romance and national prestige was seemingly limitless plain of snow and ice. It is a most unlikely place involved, however. The scientists for man to live. planning the IGY proposed lines of There are no mountains as at geophysical observatories along three McMurdo Sound and Cape Hallett, selected meridians, and all three, of course, would converge at the South nor can one walk to the edge of an Pole. There was also considerable ice shelf, as at Halley Bay and scientific interest in the behaviour SANAE, to watch the seals and pen of the atmosphere during a period guins. There is only snow stretching of prolonged darkness, and a few away to the horizon. Yet man has resided there for over a decade, a more imaginative souls even specu few towers protruding above the lated that the ionosphere might des cend to the surface of the Earth. * U.S. Naval Support Force, Antarctica. By the spring of 1954, when the June, 1968

Navy Department received the first Pole Station. During the winter, they intimation that there might be a studied and restudied all facets of new Antarctic expedition requiring their problem, practised their various its support, the scientists were firm assignments, and inured themselves in their desires to plant stations in to the cold. They were heartened by Marie Byrd Land and at the Geo the selection of Dr. Paul A. Siple as graphic South Pole. To the military scientific leader of the station they planners, it seemed feasible to build were to build. A veteran of four ex the first, using convoys of heavy peditions, Dr. Siple was undoubtedly tractors to bring material from the most experienced Antarctic ex Little America. No one, however, pert in the United States, with three thought that such tractor trains winters in Antarctica to his credit. could negotiate the Beardmore or As earlier expeditions had wintered any of the other glaciers leading to near sea level, there was further en the South Pole. The one possibility couragement for the project in the was airdrop, and for this the Navy word that four Soviet scientists were was unequipped and inexperienced. successfully passing the winter on It therefore turned to the Air Force, the polar plateau, 233 miles south which had confidence in its standard of their main base at Mirny. techniques of dropping equipment During October, 1956, U.S. Navy and supplies, but the aviators point and Air Force aircraft began arriving ed out that their Globemasters could at McMurdo Station in preparation not operate off the ice shelf at Little for the coming campaign. The plan America. Rear Admiral George J. was to air-drop all South Pole cargo, Dufek, who had been designated to except some delicate scientific in command the entire operation later struments, but to fly in the person known as Deep Freeze, read the nel on Navy ski-equipped Dakotas available literature, which was not and Neptunes, the latter a long-range extensive, and consulted with survi patrol aircraft. To survey the situ vors of Scott's second expedition, ation for himself, Admiral Dufek particularly with Professor Frank flew to the South Pole in a Dakota Debenham, who produced evidence on October 31. When he and his that the fast ice of McMurdo Sound crew stepped from their plane, would support the weights involved. they were the first men to stand at That answer was adopted, even that historic spot since the days o: though it meant building a station Amundsen and Scott, almost 45 years that the Navy had not expected. In before. The temperature was 58° be other words, McMurdo Station, to low zero, and a brisk wind struck day the largest of Antarctic com them in the face. As the Dakota munities, was originally built so that struggled back into the thin air, Ad the United States could put 18 men miral Dufek decided to delay th( at the South Pole for the IGY. start of construction almost three weeks, in hope of warmer tempera During Operation Deep Freeze I tures. (1955-1956), the U.S. Naval Support Force, Antarctica, concentrated on On November 19, an advance party building Little America V and Mc consisting of Lt. Bowers and six Murdo Station. By the end of the Seabees took off from McMurdo. season, the two stations were com With them went Lt. (jg.) John Tuck, pleted, and at them were stored Jr., who a few days later was to be building materials, supplies, and named Pole Station's first naval equipment to be delivered as early officer-in-charge, and a team of 11 as possible in the next summer to dogs. Air Force Globemasters joined the site in Marie Byrd Land and to the Dakota over the South Pole and the South Pole. Also, at McMurdo parachuted supplies to the party was Lieutenant (jg.) Richard A. after it had landed. All their prelim Bowers, a civil engineer, and his con inary training had not quite pre struction crew of 21 carefully chosen pared the advance party for what Seabees who were to build the South they encountered. At this 9,200-foot June, 1968

Official U.S. Navy photo: LTJG H. S. Hemphill, U.S.N. THE STATION FROM THE AIR, 1965 elevation, they all suffered in some The Air Force, too, had its initial degree from lack of oxygen. The troubles. Release mechanisms mal Weasel that they hoped to use in re functioned, some parachutes, stream trieving supplies came down so hard ed, and difficulty was experienced in that its transmission was broken and hitting the drop zone. The last, at the batteries cracked. Despite the least, could immediately be helped assurances of the pilots that they by sending an experienced drop-zone had located the exact spot, Lt. controller to the scene. On November Bower's theodelite told him that he 25, Technical Sergeant Richard J. was eight miles from the South Pole. Patton arrived by parachute. He After three days, though still not brought with him the batteries for fully recovered from their hypoxia, the Weasel, which was soon put in Bowers, Tuck, and two of the Sea working order, and he and the four bees set out for the Pole with their members of the advance party still supplies on a dog sled. As they at the original site joined Lt. Bowers stumbled along, stopping frequently at the correct location, Patton thus to rest, their admiration for Scott winning for himself the double dis and Shackleton, who had manhauled tinction of being the first man to their way across the polar plateau, parachute on to the polar plateau increased enormously. They reached and the first Air Force man to stand their destination, erected their tenls, at the South Pole. By December 1, and prepared for the great adven the entire construction party, plus ture. Dr. Siple, had arrived; building June, 1968 materials were being air-dropped in shelter, built of dunnage, was added, increasing quantities, the men were and the two Jamesway shelters, recovering from their initial moun erected to house the construction tain sickness, and construction could crew were retained and used for liv really begin. ing quarlers and storage. A third was set up some distance from the Construction followed the concept camp as an emergency shelter. The developed by Admiral Byrd at three aurora tower was placed above the Little Americas during the 1930s. science building, and the rawindome Basically, this called for erecting the over the mess hall. Radio antennas buildings in a line on the surface were at one end of the row of build and then connecting them with pas ings, and the ionospheric sounding sageways made by covering two- by antenna at the other. four-inch framing timbers with chicken wire and burlap. Supplies were cached along these passage UNCERTAIN MOMENTS ways, which, when drifted over, be came tunnels providing a secure Lt. Bowers, with the last of the path in the worst of weather. At the construction personnel, left on Janu South Pole, as at other U.S.-built ary 4, 1957. They were replaced by stations situated on ice and snow, Lt. Tuck, Lt. Taylor (a Navy medical steel floor trusses extended beyond officer), and the seven enlisted men the perimeter of the building. These of the wintering-over party. The were supported at either end by change came at what was probably timber foundations. The intent was the darkest moment in the history to carry the weight of the buildings of the station. The causes lay beyond beyond the area that would be the control of those r.t the South affected by heat loss through the Pole, and some exceeded the control floor, thus to prevent distortion of any man. Dr. Siple was the only caused by uneven settling. This scientist on board; insufficient fuel scheme worked well, and the build and food had been delivered to keep ings have remained remarkably the station fully operational for a stable. year; and many of the scientific sup As for the buildings themselves, plies had not arrived. At McMurdo, they were the standard Clements aviation gasoline had run short, the type used at all United States sta breakout of ice endangered the run tions, whether on permanent ice or way, and the runway itself was de permafrost. They were 20 feet wide, teriorating in the warming sun. For and their walls were made of 4-foot a time the Globemaster had to with by 8-foot by 4-inch panels. By vary draw to New Zealand to await the ing the number of panels, buildings cooler temperatures of February. of different lengths could be con Plans were discussed for reducing structed, and by varying the orienta the science programme, for operat tion, ceiling heights of either 8 or 12 ing only a portion of the station, and feet could be achieved. At the South for making other adjustments. Pole, the 12-foot buildings were sunk four feet into the surface so that While the exact future of the sta all rooflines were even. This was tion was yet in doubt, a dedication done to prevent excessive drifting. A ceremony was held on January 30 wire-and-burlap tunnel was built all at McMurdo Sound, 730 nautical around the periphery of the camp miles away. In attendance were Ad so that fire could be fought from all miral Dufek, representatives from sides of the buildings. The original New Zealand and Norway, and other layout called for six structures, de prominent persons connected with noted as follows: garage and power the scientific and support pro plant; latrine; galley, mess hall, and grammes. Dr. Laurence M. Gould, radio room; science building; bal chairman of the United Slates Ant loon inflation shelter; and personnel arctic Committee for the IGY, acted quarters. A non-magnetic instrument as master of ceremonies. Statements June, 1968

were read from President Eisen hower, King Haakon of Norway, Prime Minister Holland of New Zea NEWS OF THE land, and Foreign Minister Lloyd of the United Kingdom. Many other messages were received, including SUB-ANTARCTIC one from Rear Admiral Richard E. Byrd, the dean of American Antarctic explorers, then nearing the end of ISLANDS his illustrious career. With suitable ceremony, the station was officially named the Amundsen-Scott IGY MARION ISLAND South Pole Station, after the first two explorers to reach that remote (South Africa) spot. (After 1958, the "IGY" was The annual relief voyage to Marion dropped from the title.) The only Island took place from March 19 to hitch in the ceremony seems to have April 2, 1968. On the return voyage been that no one thought to tell the the six members of the team of the people at the South Pole about it. Public Works Department who erect They learned of it only when air ed new living quarters during the traffic had been resumed in Febru previous five months, returned to ary. South Africa. The 25th relief team Fortunately for them, the clouds of is therefore the first team to live in misfortune had passed quickly. Ships the new quarters. The old quarters arrived at McMurdo Station with were destroyed by fire during June, the precious aviation fuel and scien 1966. tific equipment. The Army rushed a The "RSA" then proceeded to Gough Island and the 12th relief re Globemasters returned from" New turned to South Africa. Dr. M. W. need airdirons Holdgate, zoologist of the Nature emu UIC i I ii.-).->iny acitliliaia cUMVCU — one of them in a flowered Hawaiian a— shirt and another in tennis shoes. Dr. N. Wace of Australia who was already working on the Island. They (To be continued) returned to the Island after 12 years to study any flora and fauna changes which have occurred since the 1955— WHALING 1955-65 56 Gough Island Scientific Expedi The indefatigable Director of the tion. They are South Africa's guests. Italian Istituto Geografico Polare, When the "R.S.A." returned from Dr. Silvio Zavatti, has published in Marion Island at the end of Nov ember, reports the South African Weather Bureau "News Letter", a P.W.D. working team was left behind the Antarctic over the past ten years, to erect a new weather station on and recommends a cessation of acti the island. This building has been vity for some years "in order to thoroughly planned for fire safety save the species from complete de and will be equipped throughout struction". with a modern closed-circuit fire alarm system. The alarm operates on a temperature-rate-of-rise princi MEET THE PHOTOGRAPHER ple, i.e. should the ambient tempera We regret the omission in our last ture increase for any reason by more issue of an acknowledgement which than 15°F per minute, or reach should have appeared on the cover. 165°F, the abnormal acceleration The photograph of Mount Erebus would trigger an alarm. The system from Rocky Point was taken by J. T. is coupled to a powerful siren cap Darby. able of rousing everybody on the June, 1968 island. In addition to this alarm sys summer penguin programme. Seven tem the building is equipped with of the boys carried petrol from 44 gal. carbon dioxide cylinders to a hose- drums dropped by the "Nella Dan" reel, water hose-reels inside and out last December and washed ashore at side, and fire extinguishers inside the Douglas Point, about a mile north building. oi tsaucr. The area was notorious for "fjalhcrbed", wet, soggy, moss- covered areas, and one man showed MACQUARIE ISLAND remarkable aptitude at locating the wettest, deepest spots with the result (Australia) that he disappeared up to the waist Hasick, leader of the twenty-man on several occasions. wintering party, reported early in One result of the 95 points rain March that overseas operators called fall was a huge landslide near the from far and wide as soon as Mac- source of our water supply. Mud fell quaric's ham radio operator was on away from the plateau leaving huge the air. Contacts included Greenland, scars and formed an impasse three France, Hawaii and Poland. feet deep across the beach. The water Simpson and Harris made their supply line broke in two places. debuts in full diving regalia when In February we had 447 points rain taking an exploratory dip in Buckles fall, mean temperature of 44 degrees Bay. They reported that sea and and maximum wind velocity of 74 kelp conditions were easily manage knots. able and that abundant marine life The weather report for March was: existed in intertidal regions. highest temp. 48 degrees, lowest temp. 36, highest wind 63 knots, total TOURISTS FROM "MAGGA DAN" rainfall 395 points. The little red ship was sighted April report: rainfall, 2.7 inches; on the afternoon of February 28. average temp., 42"; highest wind Next morning at 0500 a dozen early gust, 70 kts.; average daily sunshine, risers greeted the first boatload of 2 hours. Cheery climate! tourists. When the boat attempted In early April the met. boys had to return for more it was found to a hard time when prevailing wind be aground, and it took the bulldozer became a 30 kt. easterly instead of to refloat it. Then the propeller the normal westerly. Balloons had jammed and after skirmishes with to be launched through radio mast rocks and kelp, the crew rowed back guy wires and many did not make it. to their ship. Subsequent trips pro Remains of balloons still hang on ceeded smoothly. Visitors set out wires. One balloon was neatly cut under the guidance of five Islanders in half by wire. to explore Nuggets Rookery, about Weekly radio contact was estab two miles from the base. Tourists lished with our New Zealand coun were able to see and photograph much of Macquarie's wildlife, in terparts at Campbell Island makinr- possible exchanges of scientific am. cluding King, Rockhopper, Royal and social topics. Gentoo penguins, Elephant seals, Skuas, Giant petrels and albatross chicks. Opportunity for conversation CAMPBELL ISLAND presented itself after lunch and many took the opportunity to obtain auto (New Zealand) graphs and photos. Taylor was kept The last of many "last ships" was busy selling and franking Antarctic HMNZS "Endeavour". Calling on stamps. At 1430 the visitors returned February 28 in perfect weather, Com to "Magga Dan". mander Banfield likened our placid At the beginning of March a parly vista to the Cote D'Azur and full of seven men headed for Bauer Bay advantage was taken for a run ashore — their mission to alleviate the fuel in these idyllic conditions. Too soon shortage created by the intensive the "Endeavour's" two-tone klaxon's June, 1968 twanging was underlining the French soggiest blokes made the three mile accent as she departed magnificently walk back to camp and the remain from the harbour. ing pair with Peggy brought the boat and rather damp mail back at first Reg Blezard, the Officer in Charge at Campbell Islands, reports: light next day. The weather did not greatly improve but the "Eltanin" "Despite a few set backs the scien gamely stood by in disgusting seas tific programme is yielding excellent off the entrance until the time sched results. Of particular note, in March, ule obliged the continuance of her was the Mel. teams OOZ mean ter voyage. Cheery conversation over the mination height of 98,200 feet for radio telephone ended with reluctant that month (a jackpot being missed farewells and warm admiration of at the very last day). The switching complement and ship. off of satellites and, more latterly a "The only far reaching conse temperamental C4 has impaired the quence of these events was to find a otherwise fine record of the Iono disappointed cigarette smoker roll spheric Department within the past ing pipe tobacco in tissue paper and three months. holding a monopoly on the gumpot!" "The remarkably fine summer has been invaluable to the station and equipment maintenance programme for which the most noticeable is the vast improvement in the balloon ABOUT PERMAFROST building facilities. The navigation beacons were lighted on April 23 Until recently it was believed that after modifications were made to the glaciers and permafrost were incom circuitry. Mooring bollards and a patible and that the giant glaciers crane were installed at the Boyack covering Antarctica kept the under Point landing to aid battery chang lying ground relatively warm. ing and the servicing of the entrance Recent calculations and measure leading lights. The anchorage ap ments made in the Antarctic show proach beacons are lighted from the that the old beliefs are only half station power supply." true. There is evidently no perma frost in the central part of the con tinent, where glaciers rise to a height CONDITIONS PRECLUDED! of several kilometres. "The terrified Peggy (the station In coastal areas, and particularly dog) did a "good merit 3" cringe in the area of Mirny, however, where when the "Burton Island" chopper the ice cover is much thinner, the passed over to drop some GMD underlying rock is permanently stores on March 3. The date schedule frozen. prevented Captain Leland from mak Soviet scientists of the Institute ing a harbour entrance. of Permafrost Studies have found, "On March 24 in unfavourable moreover, that Antarctica has a ring- weather "Ellanin" attempted a ren shaped permafrost belt running dezvous with the station launch round its coast. "Aurora" in Perseverance Harbour. In certain coastal areas the perma The four man/1 dog crew sat in the frost belt is some kilometres wide, lee of Shoal Point when conditions although it is broken in places. deteriorated and soon realised that The institute's scientists assume Commander Thornton would hold off that the permafrost layer in the to the morrow. With a lull towards coastal area does not exceed 400 dusk the "Aurora" was turned for metres in thickness. The maximum home but open boating was not on, permafrost layer, in the basin of the so she was put about and returned River Lena in Siberia (near the to the former haven with sloshing Arctic Circle), is known to be one bilges and drenched crew. The two and a half kilometres thick. June, 1968

ability of open water for recovery THREE NATIONS EXPLORE in 1969. All equipment, including the satellite-navigation system, is be WEDDELL SER lieved to be functioning as designed. The United States, Norway and The physical oceanography pro Argentina are working together in the International Weddell Sea gramme includes coring, nutrients, bottom photography, water samp: Oceanographic Expedition. Their main purpose is to study the forma ling and vertical cross-section of tion of bottom waters in the Wed temperature in the Antarctic Conver dell Sea, which is believed to be the gence zone. cradle of much of the cold bottom The I.W.S.O.E. marks the first waters that flow northward from attempt to study the productivity Antarctica. of the virtually unknown southern The U.S. portion of the expedition and western Weddell Sea from an is financed and co-ordinated by the oceanographic vessel. Great expanses National Science Foundation in co in the central and south-western re operation with the Coast Guard, gions of the sea were found to be which contributed its icebreaker extraordinarily rich in phytoplank- "Glacier" and the services of its ton (marine plant life) and conse Oceanographic Unit. "Glacier" was quently in zooplankton (oceanic ani to be joined by the Argentine ice mal life). The fertile waters teem breaker "General San Martin", but with penguins, birds, seals and the Argentine participants were whales. One very thick "bloom" ot forced to withdraw temporarily just phytoplankton covering several hun before the projected rendezvous on dred square miles was discovered on January 31, 1968, at Hope Bay. How February 10. A preliminary analysi ever, in late February the '"San Mar of the nutrient salts at the various tin" rejoined the expedition. 61^ sta stations showed heavy concentra tions were occupied by "Glacier" and tions of basic nutrient elements such as phosphates, nitrates and silicate- nine by "San Martin", ninety per — of vital importance to the growtl. cent of them in an area of the Wed dell Sea where no ship capable of of phytoplankton in Antarctic waters. This probably results from oceanographic work had previously sailed. the phenomenon of up-welling off the Antarctic coast. Norway's contribution is the pro vision of automatic recording buoys Preliminary work suggests that the to be left in the Weddell Sea over shallower depths, closer to land, have the winter. A SRN-9 satellite navi a bottom that is rocky, with gravel gation system, installed on "Glacier" and much fine silt. The larger rocks specifically for this cruise, enables disappear in another 100 fathoms, accurate positioning of these buoys the bottom now consisting of fine to facilitate recovery next year. silt interspersed with gravel and small stones. WORK UNDER WAY A surprising discovery is the ex After an exhaustive bathymetric treme paucity of brittlestars, fishes survey to confirm the slope, four and Mollusca. separate current-meter arrays were laid on February 6, approximately Scuba-equipped scientists made two miles apart across contour lines five dives to examine the under-ice of the continental slope in the gen surface for a slush layer, a layer of eral area 74° 06' — 74° 09' S, unconsolidated ice crystals beneath 39° 18' _ 39° 26' W. The location the hard ice. Except for fast ice, was selected after consideration of however, in somewhat sheltered the theory of the formation of bot waters, the slush layer was found to tom waters, weather, sea and ice be washed away along with its asso conditions at the time, and the prob ciated micro-flora. June, 1968

The distribution of seals proved very uneven. Shipboard counts to BIG CHANGES COMING 220 yards on each side during 22 If the thinking of many forward- hours gave average counts per hour looking Antarctic planners is correct, of crabeater 12.3, Weddell 0.4, Ross there will be great differences be 0.5, leopard 0.4. A census by heli tween the Antarctic operations of copter gave densities of 3.1 Weddell today and those of a few years' time. and .1 crabeater seal per square mile. These men believe: The most important result was the (1) that unmanned stations and proof that it is possible to collect remote sensing devices, including significant oceanic data in an area data gathering and sensing satellites, hitherto regarded as virtually im will replace some of today's manned penetrable. The operation was stations and extend the effectiveness planned as a two-year, two ice of others; breaker survey, and it is to be hoped (2) that manned submersibles will that in the 1968-9 summer the full operate under the large areas of planned programme can be carried floating ice that surround the Ant out. arctic; (3) that unmanned sensors with transmitters or recorders will oper ate in the Antarctic seas; WELL NAMED (4) that air-borne sensing from The current rash of "initial words" fixed-wing aircraft — veritable flying has seldom produced an apter one laboratories — will soon be devel than that formed by the initials of oped. the International Symposium on Ant arctic Glaciological Exploration, ISAGE, ELTANIN to be held at Dartmouth College, "Eltanin" on her 33rd cruise, after New Hampshire, U.S.A., from Sep two returns to Wellington, New Zea tember 3 to 7. Organised jointly by land, for repairs, sailed on March 21, the SCAR Working Group on Glacio and called at Campbell Island, logy and the International Associ without a landing because of storm ation for Scientific Hydrology, conditions. Farthest points reached ISAGE will be chaired by Dr. A. P. were 71 °S and 120°W; then north to Crary. 55°S and back to 60°S at about 130°W. Near the Chatham Islands two stations and a seismic traverse were run before making for Auck OBITUARY land. The vessel was 59 days at sea. It is with great regret that we record the death of Captain William DO IT YOURSELF Johnston, Master of the "John Bis coe" from 1950 to 1965. Captain Trouble struck the Soviet whaling Johnston was a father-figure to suc fleet during a severe storm when the cessive generations of British Ant only surgeon on the factory ship arctic men, who came to rely on his "Soviet Ukraina" suddenly became determined ice pilotage and ability. seriously ill. In a radio message to He made a mark on Antarctic work the Ministry of Fisheries on March which will be long remembered by 20, the Captain said that the doctor those who sailed with him. diagnosed his sudden severe pains as hernia requiring an immediate oper ation. With the assistance of the dentist, the therapeutist and some SOUND ADVICE others he performed a four-hour See the important notice on page operation on himself. His condition 69 and act upon it. was reported as "satisfactory". June, 1968 NEW ZEALANDER'S FIND PROVES ANTARCTIC ANIMAL LIFE

It was December 28 last year: three days after their Christmas "dinner", high up among the mountains of Antarctica. Two ■ " : . - I f ! young men were busy geologis ing between the head of the Beardmore Glacier and the head of the Shackleton Glacier only about 325 miles from the South : R O S S - \ . Pole. They had just climbed a i I C E S H E L F ^ rocky slope rising about half a i i S B S mile above the glacier surface, and were crossing what in the ^ ^h^ / -r \& \ $ & ancient past had been a river w i bed. Both keen scientists, they Peter Barrett is a New Zealander, were alert to the faint chance born in Hamilton. He and his com panion, David Johnston (U.S.A.), that they might find something with two others camped some miles of vital significance for the pre away, Ralph Baillie (also U.S.A.) and history of the Antarctic contin Dr. David Elliot (England), were ent. They did find, in several working for the United' States Ant arctic Research Program on a pro places, fossil leaves, and then ject sponsored by the Institute of fossil stems and roots, and, even Polar Studies of The Ohio State Uni more exciting, the shell of a pre versity and financed by the U.S. historic snail. National Science Foundation. The discovery was made in New Then Peter Barrett, the leader Zealand's Ross Dependency. The of their team, saw something team was investigating rock strata else. It was a curiously shaped sequences to learn more about the extent and flow direction of the impression in the stones of the ancient Antarctic ice sheet, and ancient river-bed: dark grey about the river basin sediments and against the lighter grey of the coal deposits: information expected rock around it. It was only two to shed new light on the geologic or three inches long. He called history of the continent. his friend to look. It puzzled The team worked in the field be them both. Should they try and tween November 12, 1967, and Febru prise it out? ary 2, 1968, working at elevations ranging from 6,500 to 10,000 feet. They lived in two-man canvas tents, At last they did — and made and travelled many miles across Antarctic history. snow fields to rock outcrops in Juno, 1968 motorized toboggans. Temperatures but he still insisted on holding the ranged from 15 degrees to minus 20 bone in custody until the Ohio Slate degrees F while they were in the exploring team took off again for field. American shores. The party was placed in the field When the team reached the United and picked up by U.S. C-130 Her States, Baillie at once took the piece cules aircraft. of bone to the American Museum of Natural History, where il was care Although Barrett and Johnston are not specialists in paleontology, Peter fully examined by Dr. Edwin H. Col immediately suspected that their find bert, an internationally recognized was a bone, and probably of great expert in vertebrate paleontology. Dr. Colbert had no doubts. The bone, significance. Baillie is a paleontolo he declared, was from the lower jaw gist and when he saw their curious treasure he knew at once from its of a Labyrinthodont, an amphibian cellular texture, that it was indeed which lived about 200 million years BONE, a fossil fragment from either ago. Labyrinthodont fossils have pre an amphibian or a reptile.f He viously been found in Australia and pieced it carefully together and fell Africa, in rocks of about the same fairly sure that it was part of the age (early Triassic) as those that skull of one of the first animals ever held this Antarctic fossil, but never to leave the sea for the land. So he before has a land vertebrate fossil packed Peter's find with infinite care been found in the Antarctic. Dr. Col in one of their tin ration-boxes and bert described the discovery as "one carried it with him back to New of the most important fossil finds Zealand. of the century". The Labyrinthodonts varied in size At Christchurch, a writer in the from a 15-foot-long crocodile-like Saturday Review* records, he nearly animal clown to newt-sized creatures. lost it. Dr. Colbert estimates that the animal A Customs agent, informed that from which this fossil bone came it was a bone, was determined to was about four feet in length. quarantine it as biological matter, So Peter Barrett's discovery proves and sealed the box with a sticker that in the far distant past land ver marked "Meat Product". He relented tebrates, animals with backbones, after being assured that all the bio were living in what is now the Ant logy went out of the fossil eons ago; arctic.

A LABYRINTHODONT LOOKED SOMETHING LIKE THIS. Based on a reconstruction by Dr. Colbert. i June, 1968

Photo: P. J. Barrett. WHERE THE BONE WAS FOUND Figure at top right marks the spot.

But this fossil find has a still more Those who accept this theory important implication. One of the admit that if Gondwanaland existed, hot arguments in scientific circles then certain evidence, such as life has centred round the theory of Con forms, found in one of the present tinental Drift: that there once ex southern continents should be found isted a vast land mass comprising also in other southern continents in whal arc now Africa, South America, circumstances indicating that it ex India, Australia and Antarctica, isted at about the same time. The joined in a super continent called evidence also must be such that the "Gondwanaland". At some time in life form could not reasonably have the ancient past, if the theory is spread across thousands of miles of true, this huge continent gradually salt water from one continent to broke up and its segments slowly another and, if living, survive. drifted to their present locations. Certain kinds of rock and rock- t Amphibians are vertebrates (animals with layer sequences, as well as piani backbones) which have eggs and embryos fossils, have been found that fit the similar to those of fishes. The adjective "amphibious" means adapted lor living requirements of the theory. How either on land or in water. Frogs and sala ever, a vertebrate animal that lived manders are living representatives oi the on land or in fresh water, common amphibians. Reptiles are further removed to two or more of the continents, from the fishes: they are animals which move on the belly or on small short legs, and considered vital evidence in sup e.g. snakes, lizards and crocodiles. Oyer a port of the theory by its proponents, period of millions of years some species of has not been found until now in * amphibiansApril 6, 1968. developed into reptiles. Antarctica — despite arduous search. June, 1968 J * f

mnnm *0 SO mm

Photo: P. J. Barrett. The bone in situ (top centre, dark).

But now, since amphibians cannot travel in salt water, we have definite P. J. BARRETT evidence that amphibians of a parti- Peter Barrett was born in Hamil ibyrinthodonts, once ton, New Zealand, in 1940, and lived for his first 17 years on a dairy farm and in Antarctica. eight miles from Hamilton. He at So the finding of a Labyrinthodont tended Hamilton Boys' High School. fossil in the Ross Dependency by He studied piano from 1947 to New Zealander Peter Barrett can 1959, and pipe organ from 1956 to fairly be called an epoch-making dis 1957, reaching grade VIII (Trinitv covery. College, London) standard. In 1956 he became interested in cave explor ing and was elected vice-president of We are privileged to publish below the N.Z. Speleological Society in 1962. Peter's own modest personal story He was a member of the 1959-60 of the discovery of the fossil and the expedition to Harwood's Hole, N.W. recognition of its possible signifi- Nelson, then found to be the deepest cave, 1,230 ft., outside W. Europe. June, 1968

He entered the University of Auck He became a graduate student at land in 1958 completing his B.Sc. Ohio State University in 1964 to course in 1960 and his M.Sc. in 1962. study for a Ph.D. degree. In Septem ber, 1965, he was awarded an Insti ANTARCTIC WORK tute of Polar Studies Fellowship, re Peter went to the Ellsworth Moun newed in 1966 so that he continued tains, Antarctica, as a field geolo as a Fellow till June, 1967. In Octo gist with the University of Minne ber, 1966, he went with the Institute sota, 1962-3. team to the Beardmore Glacier area Returning to New Zealand, he was as principal investigator, and con employed by the Ministry of Works tinued this responsibility in 1968 Engineering Laboratory in Auckland with the second expedition, during for some months in 1963 but went the course of which he found the south again in 1963-4, as deputy- bone. leader/geologist with the New Zea land southern field party, which mapped the geology between the The Director of The Institute of Axel Heiberg and Shackleton Gla Polar Studies, Dr. Colin Bull, was ciers in Queen Maud Range. He also for some years a New Zea- transferred to the N.Z. Geological lander and was a member of the Survey to write up the stratigraphy Victoria University of Wellington of the Beacon Group and to work on expeditions in the Antarctic in the the petrology. summers of 1958-59 and 1960-61.

HOW LABYRINTHODONT WAS FOUND by PETER J. BARRETT

We were all aware of the possi eight miles up a glacier into the bility of finding vertebrate remains middle of the Massif, while Dave in the Beacon strata. Also, like most Johnston and I sledged north across other geologists who had worked the Mill Stream Glacier. The first with these rocks, we knew of the five hours of the journey were cold, implications with respect to contin due to the Otway breeze, and with ental drift of such a discovery. Like out interest apart from the several people who take a ticket in the patches of crevasses scattered across Golden Kiwi once a year we hoped, the glacier. It was with some relief but really did not expect it to happen that we crossed into the "head to us. waters" of the Snakeskin Glacier, On December 26 our four-man named presumably for its mottled party was landed with two motor appearance from the extensive areas toboggans, tents, food and fuel for of blue ice. About this time the wind six weeks by a C-130 Hercules of the died away and we at last began to U.S. Navy at the Otway Massif, an warm up. Our goal for the day, the isolated group of peaks near the edge west ridge of Graphite Peak, was of the South Polar Plateau at the now in sight. By 11.30 p.m., four head of the Beardmore Glacier. Al hours later, we were setting up the though the sun was out it was chilly tent in a cosy sheltered trough of — the temperature was below 0°F snow on the edge of the glacier with and there was a steady 10-knot in walking distance of the strata we breeze that we later found character were to measure in the next day ised the place. Next day Dave Elliot or so. and Ralph Baillie moved their camp There were several places in the June, 1968

Snakeskin Glacier area that I wanted chip it out. We hoped to get the to work over. These were ridges or whole block about a foot across out, faces where the largest thicknesses so after a short argument in which of strata, providing the most com each claimed that the other should plete record of the local geological begin the work, thereby accepting history, were exposed. The localities responsibility for unfortunate slips were determined beforehand from oi the hammer, one of us (I now air photo examination, though Vic forget who) began to chip out a McGregor's geological report from channel around the bone. Three- his 1961-62 season played the largest quarters of an hour later pieces of part in the decision to visit Graphite the bone were beginning to separate Peak. He described a thick section, with the vibration of the hammering 2,500 ft. of strata, going from Perm so we carefully picked them out and ian coal measures into a non-carbon wrapped them in toilet paper. That aceous sandstone-siltstone sequence evening we made radio contact with that sounded identical to Triassic Dave Elliot and Ralph at the Otway beds I saw in the Queen Alexandra Massif but contact was so poor that Range, 100 miles north, the previous all we could get across were the season. betters BONE. The following morning (December Ten clays later, when we returned 28) was as warm and still as the to the Otway Massif, the excitement previous evening, in spite of the was like finding it all over again as thermometer, which registered we unwrapped the pieces to show —0°F. By around 8 p.m. that evening Dave and Ralph. Ralph who had had we had measured, described and col training and experience in vertebrate lected from about 1,200 ft. of strata paleontology had no doubt about the and collected some very good plant bone's nature and thought it might leaves. Dave Johnston was picking be part of a vertebra or jaw. Later away (this time unsuccessfully) at a he spent a whole evening assembling green siltstone looking for plants, the 10 or so pieces and gluing them though with less enthusiasm than together with pancake mix. earlier; while I was crawling around on the top of a sandstone bluff about Ralph, upon returning to the 80 ft. higher up. United States, took the bone to Dr. Colbert at the American Museum of I was looking over some pebbles Natural History in New York City. in a pebbly lens when an unusually The official pronouncement was that dark pebble caught my eye. A second it is a piece from the posterior of the and more intensive look showed it lower jaw of a labyrithodont amphib to have a complex form and cell ian. The plant fossils in the section structure. A couple of excited shouts indicate that it is about 200 million quickly brought Dave from his unre years old. warding task, and with much laughter and backslapping we agreed that there was little else it could be but a bone. Next day we returned and spent J. J. Heimsheimer of Buenos Aires, several hours crawling all over the Argentina, told the Polar Conference bluff at the top of which the bone in Stuttgart of the results of recent lay embedded. Our only reward was studies into the circulation of the a fossil gastropod mold, though it cold water of the Ross Sea. He said was interesting in its own right, being that the inner basin of the Ross Sea the first invertebrate to be found in "becomes separated from the open the younger Beacon strata. There oceans through the Pennell Bank . . . was still an hour left before we had The Ross Sea water flows in the to return for radio contact. We had East-wind Drift current through the photographed the bone so we de Indian Ocean and finishes in the Wed cided we might as well try and dell Sea cyclonic movement". June, 1968 THE ROLE OF FUEL IN ANTARCTIC DISCOVERY AND RESEARCH by SIR CHARLES WRIGHT

[We are very happy to publish this article by the distinguished Canadian who as C. S. (or "Silas") Wright was physicist on Scott's 1910-13 Expedition. Sir Charles's vigour of mind and body belies his years. His article is illustrated by four delightful pen sketches by his daughter, Miss P. M. Wright. We are indebted to them both.l When the Editor first suggested native which has much to recom thai I might produce a short article mend it is that the washers were of for the 50th Edition, my first reac unsuitable material. We did find at tion was a resounding negative, be Cape Evans that some of the large cause the story of Scott's Last Ex fuel drums were by no means full at the end of the second winter while, pedition of 1910 to 1913 was dealt .With so adequately by Capt. Scott at One Ton DcdoI itself, some of himself. However, further considera the food situated 20 or 30 feet away tion suggested that there are quite from the cans of kerosene smelt and a few aspects of our Expedition tasted of the fuel. which are still inadequately written However, it is not these incidents up. Some of these aspects were not which have led to the choice of the dealt with by Capt. Scott because title of this article and of its con the incidents happened after the un tent. When it comes to the fine point, fortunate end of himself, "Dr. Bill" fuel is the basic material which has Wilson, and "Birdie" Bowers during decided the difference between the a long blizzard only a few miles from old and the newer methods of trans lashings of oil and food at One Ton portation and which has been n Depot. There are really important ponsible for the important advanc incidents which have not been dealt and the truly enormous improve with adequately. ments in Research techniques since Readers of "Scott's Last Expedi 1913. This interval covers the period tion" will remember the complaints of change from animal-drawn trans of shortages of fuel during the later port to machine-borne equipment de stages of the return from the South pendent on a different type of fuel. Pole, in spite of the fact that the party was reduced by P.O. Evans' death on the Beardmore Glacier to four, for which the normal weekly ration was made up. These shortages of oil have never been adequately accounted for — possibly because alternative reasonable explanations ■&&?: «-'Xi. have been advanced. One of these involves the deterioration in suffi ciently low temperatures of the tin alloy used for soldering.* An alter- Fig. 1 is a line drawing (after Pont- ing's photo) of the daily ration of * In spite of the lack of any obvious changes fuel for human-drawn transport. One of tin alloy samples in bulk, exposed might, of course, cavil at the lack during the winter at Cape Evans at the request of Prof. J. Joly. of variety from day to day, but the June, 1968

fuel supplied to the dogs or to the One of the great mysteries which ponies was actually the same each our Search Party did not solve was day, whereas the man-hauling party why most of the Thibetan mules had a very large choice since a man brought down by "Terra Nova" on could decide daily whether to have her second journey south refused to two biscuits and N lumps of sugar eat their rations during the search. for breakfast with corresponding None of us was sufficiently know changes at lunch or supper. Any ledgeable to suggest a reason for this mathematician will say that one had strange behaviour and to see two a really large choice at one's disposal from one day to another. No such large choice was available in the division of kerosene for the primus. There was none to spare at any time.

mules solemnly chewing at opposite ends of an old rope whenever a halt was called led us to wonder mightily what sustenance they were able to extract from the rope, if any. None of us on the Search Party tried the experiment themselves, but the mules undoubtedly gained much satisfaction from these strange meals. Possibly because I was at one with "Marie" Nelson and Bernard Day The first attempt to substitute as one of the lean kine who was mechanical powered vehicles for always hungry, I came to the con animal power were made on our clusion that this was because we 1910-1913 Expedition and a line draw were not making full use of our ing of one of the 3 machines is shown rations. Certain it is that one's in Fig. 2. They were petrol driven nightly dreams of such exotic foods with a 4-cylinder motor cooled by as porridge or apples played no part air from a belt-driven fan in front. in a sober daytime assessment. More However, the cylinders were arrang pemmican was whal I needed and ed along the fore and aft line so that I believe Nelson and Day would have only one of them could operate at said the same. It is not fun still to the correct temperature. Although be hungry even at the conclusion of one of the 3 caterpilars was lost every meal. through the sea-ice while being un This inadequacy led me, in my in nocence, to an experiment on the Ferrar Glacier on a hot day with very little friction between sledge runners and a clear ice surface. The idea was to show by comparison of calories in the day's food ration with the energy (neglecting friction) expended in raising the sledge and its load of about 250 lbs apiece, the 2,500 ft of rise in the day's run. loaded, the other two did a good Needless to say my youthful enthusi job during the operations of landing asm for the experiment received a cargo at Cape Evans and one even severe shock. reached a little south of 78° by the June. 1968 process of cannibalism of parts of HE ALMOST BECAME A the other derelict machine. And how the slaves of the machine would have NEW ZEALANDER appreciated a little hot water at the end of the day, if the engine had EDWARD EVANS GOODALE been water-cooled instead of by a blast of air. It is possibly worth Away back in 1928-30 a tough noting that engines are more severely young American had two good restricted to type of fuel than the looks at New Zealand — and draught animals. liked what he saw. 25 years later So far have the U.S. Task Forces he was back again for two years advanced in their techniques that the old days are no more when one running, on his way to and from could spend most of the summer the Antarctic. And then for 10 getting to and from the area chosen years, 1957-1967, he became a for research. These times can now resident of Christchurch for be cut to a few hours each way and almost half of each year. ancillary equipment such as heli copters can be delivered to the Eddie Goodale was born in Boston, chosen site by the large aircraft so Massachusetts, U.S.A., on April 7, that the area of close examination 1903, of an old New England family. is immensely increased. New Zea Much of his boyhood was spent in land still uses dogs to increase the Ipswich, Massachusetts, on the sea area under examination and there coast, where the family had extensive are, no doubt, places where dog- or apple orchards. He attended Brown man-hauling will be necessary, but & Nichols School in Cambridge, the main airlift will continue to be Massachusetts, before entering Har by large aircraft of the U.S. Task vard University in 1924 to study geo Force, whose facilities are so gener logy and meteorology. In 1923, how ously made available to New Zealand ever, Eddie signed on as an aid in as well as to others. the Grenfell Labrador Medical Mis sion, where his boating skill and love of the vigorous outdoor life received full scope for development. Here M O R E A B O U T C H I L E Eddie also was initiated into dog- sledging and acquired resources of BASES experience that were to stand him Chilean Antarctic bases manned in good stead in the future. this winter are: Arturo Prat: 62° 30' S, 59° 41' W. DOG DRIVER WITH BYRD Presidente Aguirre Cerda: 62° 56' When in August, 1927. Eddie was S, 60° 36' W. chosen as a dog-driver for the Bvrd Bernado O'Higgins: 63' 19° S, 57° Antarctic Expedition by the then 54' W. Cmdr. Richard E. Byrd, he was one Three other bases: of only 42 selected to winter-over Gabriel Gonzalez Videla: 64° 49' from among a reouted 50,000 volun S, 62° 51' W. teers. With two Harvard classmates, Yelcho: 64° 52' S, 68° 34' W. he left the University to spend the Commodore Guesalaga: 67° 47' 1927—28 Northern Hemisphere winter S, 68° 53' W. in the hills of rural New Hampshire are only occupied at present during state, training dogs and polishing his the summer period. driving techniques. The three accom Meteorological observations are panied the Expedition's 94 doss to being made at all three occupied Dunedin, New Zealand, aboard the stations, seismological work is being Norwegian whaler "Sir James Clark carried out at O'Higgins and Aguirre Ross". Cerda, vulcanology and geothermal Unon arriving at the Bay of Whales activity at Aguirre Cerda only. on New Year's Day, 1929, Eddie and June, 1968

his Harvard companions, dubbed by recognition of Eddie's service to the Admiral Byrd "The Three Musket expedition, rises to 7,000 feet nearby eers", commenced hauling supplies at 85° 58' S, 155° 25' W. The Party by dog sledge from the Ross Ice returned to Little America on Janu Shelf edge to the Little America site. ary 19, 1930, after 77 days on the They were assigned to Dr. Laurence trail. Once back in the United States, M. Gould, Chief Scientist and Second- Eddie received the special gold in-Command of the Expedition, to medal awarded by an enthusiastic transport the Geological Sledging Congress to the members of the Byrd Party south the following spring. The Antarctic Expedition. intervening months were spent in Eddie settled down to raising and laying depots, killing seals and manu marketing apples at the family orch facturing dog pemmican, and other ards in Ipswich for the next decade, wise preparing for the trip, which indulging in his wanderlust only to began on November 4, 1929. the extent of a summer cruise in 1937 along the coasts of Newfound land and Labrador.

WAR SERVICE In September, 1941, Eddie became a special consultant to the Chief of the Army Air Corps, advising on Arctic operations and living prob lems. He was assigned to the Air Transport Command in July of 1942 and served as a civilian consultant with the establishment of the Crystal III base on Padloping Island, off the Davis Strait coast of Baffin Island. Eddie was Crystal Ill's Executive Officer for the first year of opera tion of the base on the aircraft ferry route to Great Britain. Commis sioned a Major in the Army Air Corps in February, 1943, he was de- signaled Chief of the Rescue Divi sion for the North Atlantic Division of the Air Tranport Command. He formulated policies and established From 'Cold' by L. M. Gould. procedures for search and rescue, supervising the training and activi EDDIE GOODALE ties of some 550 Air Corps personnel. at the end of the 1929 journey. He also aided in the establishment of Arctic weather stations and land ing fields. For his wartime service, Under Larry Gould, Eddie and the Eddie received the U.S. Air Force other four members of the Party Air Medal, the World War II Victory covered 1,500 miles, mapping many Medal, the American Campaign new features of the Queen Maud Medal for World War II, and the Range between 140° and 170° west Presidential Citation. longitude and obtaining geological and biological specimens. On Decem ber 8,1929, Eddie gained the distinc ARCTIC WEATHER-MAN tion of having discovered the most Upon his discharge as a Lieutenant- southern form of life when he found Colonel in July, 1946, Eddie partici lichens on the slopes of Mount Fridt- pated in the establishment of the jof Nansen at 85° 23' south latitude. joint Danish-United States weather Mount Goodale, named by Byrd in station at Thule, on North Star Bay, June, 1968 in Greenland and spent the following International Geophysical Year. He year as Oflicial-in-Charge for the U.S. went south in the 1955-56 summer Weather Bureau. At Thule he co to serve as IGY Representative in ordinated operations between the New Zealand and Antarctica and par civilian Weather Bureau and the ticipated in the icebreaker cruise Army and Navy logistical forces and along the continent which located a represented the U.S. interests at the site for the future Wilkes Station at co-operative camp of 22 Danish and Vincennes Bay. The following year U.S. wintering personnel. In July, Eddie was again on the continent 1947, he returned to Washington, as IGY Rep at Little America on D.C., to become Assistant Chief of Kainan Bay. He went out to Marie the Polar Operations Project of the Byrd Land with a Seabee construc Weather Bureau. In this position, he tion crew and remained there to aided in the planning and establish supervise the erection of Byrd ment of a network of six joint Cana- Station. dian-U.S. Arctic weather stations From this time on, Eddie was in across the top of North America, the Southern Hemisphere through taking an active part in their con out every summer as New Zealand struction and operation and conduct Representative of the U.S. Antarctic ing frequent inspection trips. Research Program. From the Christ church International Airport head quarters of the U.S. Naval Support Force, Antarctica, he made frequent trips to McMurdo Station and the other U.S. stations on the Antarctic Continent. In May of 1963 he trans ferred from the U.S. Weather Bureau to the National Science Foundation, continuing his function as New Zea land USARP Rep. Eddie was married in July, 1966, to Eleanor Barnhart, who spent the 1967-68 summer with him in Christ church. The Goodales live in Arling ton, Virginia, nearby to Washington, D.C., when Eddie is at his home base in the Office of Antarctic Programs of the National Science Foundation. His daughter by a previous marriage and three grandchildren reside in Florida.

[Now it seems possible that Eddie will retire from his "representative" duties. But he will be back again. If it should be to stay, Eddie can be assured New Zealand will gladly welcome him as one of her own.— Force, Antarctica. Ed.] As he is today.

BACK TO THE ANTARCTIC In 1955 Eddie resumed his contact HAVEN'T YOU GOT with the Antarctic when the Weather A SINGLE IDEA Bureau polar office began planning ? ? ? facilities and designing stations for When you have, write to the Editor the U.S. Antarctic Program for the about it. See overleaf. June, 1968 THE READER WRITES Sidelights of Antarctic Research

Letters, preferably not longer IN REMEMBRANCE than 500-600 words, are invited Captain Robert Falcon Scott was born at Stoke Damerel, Devonport, from readers who have observed England, on June 6, 1868. some little known facet of Ant In the Antarctic, Scott Base men will be marking the centennial of arctic life or who have reached his birth with a "quiet dinner" and conclusions of interest on some a few bottles of champagne, plus some guests from McMurdo. Antarctic problem.—Ed. In England, Dr. Gordon Robin, director of the Scott Polar Research Institute, reports that the institute WELL, WHY NOT? will be assisting with a display to be held at Plymouth near where Scott was born. Another special function is to be held in June by the y, there will be many British Antarctic Survey, British opportunities for extensive research Antarctic Club and various naval in this area. A problem to be over and olher units associated with come this summer is one of ground active Antarctic research in recent transport. Although no doubt much of the materials and stores required years. It will also be the 25th anni versary of the BAS. by Vanda Station will be transported And in Christchurch, New Zea t™ riir c ianci route from Scott Base land, the Canterbury Branch of the _jw station will need to be New Zealand Antarctic Society established. plans to hold a simple ceremony at The first section will be the 52-mile 12.30 p.m. to mark the centennial. Since Christchurch has the national journey across the sea-ice to Cape Bernacchi, then a four-mile haul over monument to Captain Scott in the rock to the seaward slopes of the city, the branch plans to place some Wilson Piedmont. There is then a flowers on this memorial. It is not ten-mile or so snow haul to the crest planned to have any speeches. It of the Piedmont, about 2,000 feet will be just a simple recognition of above sea level, before dropping an Captain Scott's achievements and his other three miles to the Wright Val association with New Zealand and Christchurch in particular. The ley. From this point there will be a twenty-mile haul over rock to our flowers will be placed at the foot new station, about ninety miles by of the statue (opposite the Claren tractor from Scott Base. The com don Hotel on the banks of the Avon) bination of sea-ice, rock, snow and by the branch president, Mr. R. M. Heke who will be accompanied by again rock will require versatile vehi cles and sledges or trailers. the two Scott veterans, Messrs. W. McDonald and W. Burton. Let's go back sixty years and think of Scott and Shackleton — ponies, of As we go to press we have re course. Will they ever have a place ceived No. 29 in the Longmans Aus again in Antarctic travel? What tralian Geography Series. It is better means of journeying over Bull Pass to the Victoria Valley Mule ANTARCTICA train. . . . Why not? by John Bechervaise, a 48-page booklet attractively pro ARNOLD HEINE. duced and well illustrated. June, 1968

ANTARCTIC BOOKSEELF

MY SECOND HOME, by A. Leigh which anyone interested in the Ant Hunt. 91 pages, 13 illustrations. Pri arctic will be happy to own. vately printed. $1.50. All proceeds from the sale of the book are being placed in a trust fund The sub-title Admiral Byrd and for the perpetuation of Byrd's mem New Zealand, aptly epitomises the ory. '"My Second Home" is obtain subject of this small but fascinat able from the Society's secretaries ing book by the founder of the New or from bookshops throughout New Zealand Antarctic Society. Mr. Hunt Zealand. met the late Admiral Byrd in 1928 when he was in Wellington before leaving New Zealand on his first ex pedition to the Antarctic. The friend GREAT WATERS, by Sir Alister ship then formed deepened as the Hardy. 542 pages, 38 plates, many years passed and for nearly thirty in colour, maps and charts. Collins years, until Byrd's death in 1957, the 63/0 net. two men were united by a close bond of mutual respect and affec This large and lavishly illustrated tion. book is written by the now distin guished scientist who was Chief No-one, therefore, is better quali Zoologist on Scott's "Discovery" fied than Mr. Hunt to speak of when in 1925-7 she carried a research Admiral Byrd, not only as one of team in Antarctic waters primarily the very great Antarctic explorers to discover how best the Antarctic but as a man, as an idealist and as whales could be saved from exter a deep lover of New Zealand. mination. This in fact involved a comprehensive study of the biology This book outlines the principal and ecology of the Antarctic ocean. events of Byrd's five expeditions, The author has waited 40 years especially in so far as they concern before writing a lively and thor New Zealand. But more than that, oughly entertaining account of this it recounts for the first time many important voyage, with the result incidents which reveal the acute that he can supplement or, in some observation and the big-heartedness cases, modify his first-hand impres of a truly great man. Mr. Hunt writes sions (he uses his diary freely) by with an admirable combination of referring to the knowledge that has frankness and reticence as well as been gained in the intervening years. humour only possible to one who Perhaps the most remarkable thing has himself in no small measure the about the book is that here is an qualities he admires in his friend. extremely knowledgeable scientist In adition there are tributes to who can and does write simply and clearly and well. The complete non- Jyrd by writers connected in one scientist can thoroughly enjoy his way or another with New Zealand, nd some personal letters (among book. There are racy accounts of is last) and other writings by Byrd such side-lines as whaling methods, himself. the times ashore in colourful ports, and Antarctic wild-life. And even The book includes a number of when he is writing of the "great excellent photographs, some not pre waters" and their teeming life he viously published. It is attractively does so in such a way that anyone produced and altogether forms a can understand what he has to say. unique tribute to a great explorer If he uses a technical word he ex- June, 1968

plains it. He is, what is more, a About 50% of the latter are confined sensitive artist, and he illustrates his to the Antarctic continent itself story with several hundred sketches, where the endemic mites outnumber some in colour, of sea creatures and the insects by 2 to 1. There are only Antarctic scenery. And he has a two insect orders with free-living good sense of humour. species, Collembola with altogether What more would vou have? 19 species, 9 of which are restricted to the Antarctic continent itself, and Diptera with two species, both oc curring outside the continent. ENTOMOLOGY OF ANTARCTICA. The present fauna of Antarctica, Antarctic Research Series, vol. 10, although rather insignificant for solv xii-395 pp., edited by J. Linsley Gres- ing problems of much zoogeographic sitt, published by American Geophy importance, is otherwise of immense sical Union. 1967. US$17.00. interest. The Antarctic organisms are The subject of this magnificent and simple and very few in number of species, a fact that permits a thor profusely illustrated volume is the fauna of terrestrial, marine, and ough and exhaustive survey in a re latively short time. Such a survey parasitic insects and mites that is absolutely essential and of the occur on the Antarctic continent and uttermost value for determining and on the islands south of parallel 60. South Sandwich Is. and Bouvet I. weighing any future changes in the composition and interrelationships were added on account of their Ant of Antarctic biota. arctic climate. In addition to a long introduc A publication, therefore, that tory section there are ten papers brings together all the old and new dealing with the systematics of Aca- information on Antarctic entomology rina and Insecta and nine papers de and compiles all the pertinent litera voted to more general topics such ture in a single volume should be as ecology, distribution patterns, most welcome to the libraries of uni growth and maturity. versities and scientific institutions. The introduction is written by the G. KUSCHEL. editor Prof. J. Linsley Gressit. It starts with an historical review of the entomological explorations from which it is apparent that the vast majority of the ficldwork was under taken only in the seven years prior As part of the Eleventh Pacific- to the publication of the volume, i.e. Science Congress in Tokyo, August, between 1959 and 1966. As many as 1966, a symposium on "Ice and Snow 25 different scientists have visited in the Pacific Area" was held. During the area during this short period, the week before, another "Conference some for several consecutive years. on Physics of Snow and Ice" was The introduction also deals with held at the Institute of Low Tempera chapters on zoogeography, distribu ture Science, Sapporo. tion patterns, fossil records, disper Contributors to the two meetings sal, and a classification of the higher came from most of the countries taxonomic groups present there. participating in Antarctic Research Huge as the area may be the severe — the most notable exception being climatic conditions at these high New Zealand. Papers presented at latitudes do not permit many biota these meetings have now been pub to thrive. Out of just over 150 species lished. Volume 1, "Physics of Snow of mites and insects already known and Ice" is divided into two parts, more than one-third live on mam and Volume 2, "Cellular Injury and mals and birds and 28 are marine Resistance in Freezing Organisms" mites. The remaining species are all was reviewed in the March (1968) free-living terrestrial organisms. issue of "Antarctic". June, 1968

"PHYSICS OF SNOW AND ICE", lanche danger. A number of papers cover all aspects of avalanche theory, Volume 1. Hirobumi Oura, Editor. and prevention, and contain a num 1967. The Institute of Low Tempera ber of lessons for us in this country. ture Science, Hokkaido University. Published as Pari 1 and 2, price These two publications (Part 1 and 2) contain 109 papers; printed approximately NZ$10 each. on 1,414 pages. The books themselves Part 1 consists of two sections; are neat, printed in clear, easy to the first "Physical Properties of Ice" read type and have well reproduced consists of 38 papers while the sec diagrams and photographs. ond section "Physical Properties ol Although we may regret our in Sea Ice" consists of 17 papers. The ability to "afford the privilege" of range of contributions is indeed very seconding scientists to international wide; from the "Thermal and Com conferences such as this one in positional Structure of the Koettlitz Japan, we should take the opportun Ice Tongue" by Zotikov and Gow ity of studying the publications from (Zotikov was the Russian Exchange them. Here we have a wide range of Scientist at McMurdo in 1965 and subjects which directly concern us New Zealander Tony Gow has fea — whether in our territory in Ant tured in "Antarctic" a number of arctica or here in New Zealand. I limes) to "Under Surface Profiles ol repeal — a publication of interest Sea Ice observed by Submarine" by and usefulness to more than a few Waldo Lyon (the result of a survey New Zealanders. by nuclear submarine U.S.S. Sargo A.J.H. in the Bering Sea). Part 2 of this volume is divided into 3 sections, the first "Physical Properties of Deposited Snow" (30 ARCTIC CUTTINGS papers), second "Mechanism of Ava lanches" (15 papers) and third, We have received from the Centre "Physics of Frost Heaving" (9 of Arctic Research of the Graduate papers). The first section deals with School of Commerce, University of problems such as "Texture of Snow", Montreal, the first three issues of its "Melting snow", "mechanical proper CATALOGUE OF PRESS CUTTINGS ties of snow", "Snow Survey, and each issue covering one subject con nected with the "Canadian Arctic, Regional Characteristics of Snow Cover" and "Blowing Snow". The Newfoundland, Alaska and Green land. papers deal with work in the Ant arctic, Japan, North America and These catalogues cover the Arctic and cover a wide range of experiments and observations. For 1. Transport and Communications instance, a paper titled "Heaving 2. Vegetable and Animal Life Force of Frozen Soils" by Seiiti Kino- 5. Defense sita of Hokkaida University deals with the problem of soil freezing The cuttings, from the Gardner during the winter months and dis Collection, date mainly from the turbing building foundations and early 1930's to 1965. road surfaces. In parts of New Zea (An idea for somebody?) land this does occur, and no doubt useful knowledge could be gained by studying this and other papers on the same subject. Although ava lanches occur in New Zealand, we have been lucky so far, that they THE POLE OF COLD generally happen in the more remote by R. B. Thomson parts of the country. However, with (Superintendent, Antarctic Division) the growing interest in skiing, there is to be published shortly will be an increasing risk of ava bv A. H. and A. W. Reed. June, 1968

SOCIETY NEWS members of the Branch and pre sented with Society badges. Two WELLINGTON BRANCH Branch members were on the tour staff, Marie Darby as biologist on the first cruise, Dorothy Braxton as n posted to ram for some two months, Len journalist on the second. Following the reception to Dr. Law, man. there was an address by Dr. John Main events during early 1968 have Brotherhood, the British Antarctic been: Survey doctor injured at Halley Bay Feb. 21: Brian Norton described the in December and flown out to Christ church for hospitalisation. Mr. Bob Thomson, Superintendent of the Antarctic Division, gave an bers, assisted in the construction of the base. informed talk to the Branch on Ant arctic Tourism. March 10: The U.S. ice-breaker "Bur Other Branch activities have in ton Island" was open for inspec cluded a talk by John Warham on tion by members and their families Macquarie Island, a cocktail party on the afternoon of Sunday, March to welcome back Rear Admiral 10. Abbot, Mrs. Abbot, and other Deep March 31: Antarctic Church Service Freeze senior officers, and the annual at St. Paul's Cathedral, 7 p.m. Antarctic service in the Christchurch Cathedral. May 9: Screening of the Scott's Last Expedition episode from "The Saga of Western Man", with New Zea landers from Scott Base portraying A M U S T F O R Y O U R the final tragic sequences. BOOK-SHELF The Branch is organising an am Both branches have for sale to bitious ANTARCTIC WEEK exhibi members copies of the just published tion at the Display Centre from June book 17 to June 22. The Antarctic Division, scientific and educational bodies, MY SECOND HOME "Antarctic Nations" embassies, and by the Society's "Grand Old Man", individual members are helping to Mr. Leigh Hunt. Wellington and provide an outstanding display. The Christchurch people have a very week will close on June 22, Mid- special interest in Admiral Byrd's Winter's Day —with a cocktail party expeditions, and no New Zealander at 5.30 p.m. All past expedition knew Byrd better than did Mr. Hunt, members arc invited to attend, as our Society's founder. Members well as all members of the Society. should secure their copies of this fascinating book without delay, to avoid disappointment. Its cost is CANTERBURY BRANCH $1.50 per copy. The branch has produced the first two issues of its "Newsletter". The DOING WELL mid-January issue of four pages out The lively "Newsletter" of the lines the important part played by Christchurch branch reports in its the Branch in organising the Ant May issue that Dr. John Brother arctic Symposium held in connec hood is fit and well after his stay tion with the ANZAAS Science Con in New Zealand. He was rescued on gress, January 24-31. One of the a mercy mission from Halley Bay in Congress lecturers was Dr. Philip December. (See "Antarctic", Dec- Law of Melbourne, and the Branch eember, 1967, and March, 1968.) He gave him a reception on the 29th. has been in Africa and England and The Branch entertained the "Mag was due to lake up his position as ga Dan" tourists, who were all made a locum in the Falkland Islands. June, 1968

SIR WALTER NASH Sir Walter Nash, Prime Minister of New Zealand in 1957-1959, died on June 4 after a severe heart attack on May 21. He was still M.P. for Hutt Tomorrow electorate, after 39 years of Parlia Thousands of children throughout mentary service, at the time of his death. the English-speaking world, cer tainly hundreds in New Zealand Always keenly interested in the alone, have been delighted to re Antarctic, he was the Patron of the ceive, when seeking material for New Zealand Antarctic Society and their "Antarctic projects", copies of a keen advocate of international co operation in Antarctic exploration "INTRODUCTION TO ANTARC and research. He was, when New Zealand Minister in Washington, one TICA" of the principal architects of the a publication originally issued by Antarctic Treaty. the U.S. Antarctic Projects Officer in In January, 1964, he flew to the 1957, revised and reprinted, and now Antarctic as the guest of Rear- issued by the U.S. Naval Support Admiral Reedy, and visited the Force, Antarctica. It is a 50-page Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, booklet, simply but far from child being at 81 the oldest man, it is ishly written, and lavishly illus- believed, ever to reach the Pole. He strated: a delight to handle and a spent a week in the Antarctic. He joy to read. visited Scott Base on January 26 and Sections on: What is Antarctica?, remained overnight at the New Zea Antarctic Animals and Plants, What land station, delighted with all he Men Do in Antarctica, The Age of saw. Always full of vigour, he Discovery, All-Out Assault—the walked out on the ice one night IGY, and Antarctica Today are fol to get pictures with Mount Erebus lowed by one on Antarctica Tomor in the background. row. Instead of a review, vyc give you sizeable extracts from this final A projected earlier Antarctic visit section. was prevented only by the break-up "Even with the tremendous effort of the McMurdo air-strip in 1957-8. since 1955 to unlock its secrets, Ant Sir Walter had hoped to be at Scott arctica remains the least known of Base to greet Dr. Fuchs and Sir continents. This fact alone should Edmund Hillary at the conclusion ensure that explorer-scientists will of the first Antarctic crossing. be going south for a long time, but Best known as a far-sighted and still another factor is at work. In extremely able Minister of Finance, 1966, Peter Scott, son of the famous he was also the architect of New Captain Scott, visited the Antarctic. Zealand's far-reaching Social Secur He pointed out that half the scienti ity legislation. His humanitarian fic research now drawing people to work was the expression of the the area is on topics not even strong Christian beliefs which lay guessed at in his father's day, and at the root of a life of devoted ser he predicted that new fields requir vice to the people of New Zealand. ing polar research will continue to New Zealand Antarcticans join in appear. The future of the Antarctic the world-wide sorrow at the pass is strongly linked to the future of ing of a great statesman who like science itself. them loved the Great White South. "Even now, scientists are devol- In the words of the New Zealand ing techniques which will broaden Prime Minister, "Nobody who knew their horizons and suggest to their Sir Walter or even knew of him imaginations new subjects for ant would doubt his love of his fellow arctic research. There are, for ex ample, data-recording machines June. 1968

powered by radioactive isotopes. At present, both the nature of these Thus far, they have been used pri resources and their extent are im m a r i l y a s a u t o m a t i c w e a t h e r perfectly known; it will take time stations. . . . Similar data-recording and much detailed geologic investi machines can be used in other gation to catalogue them. Even if studies. They could, for example, the mineral resources prove to be make almost all the observations valuable, the techniques for ex- that have been taken at Plateau Sta exploitation do not now exist. In tion by upper-atmosphere physicists a society characterized by rapid — without risking the lives of eight technological advance, it would be men in an isolated spot where acci unwise to say that the necessary dent or illness might have tragic techniques cannot be developed, but consequences. . . . it would be equally foolish to pre "Very little is known about the dict when this will occur. . . . ice pack, the floating belt of sea ice that surrounds the continent — per "Tourism is one nonscientific haps less than about any other ant activity that is already established arctic phenomenon. Although satel and growing, though not sufficiently lites orbiting a hundred or more to pay for airfields, hotels, and other miles up can play a part here, a facilities. Tourist ships have visited closer look will also be necessary. the Antarctic Peninsula area since Much can be done by icebreakers 1958. Travelling by ship has the ad carrying helicopters, but scientists vantage that tourists can live on would like to look under the ice as board and do not require shore well. Submarines have been used accommodations. Cruises to other for research in the Arctic, and many areas seem quite possible. Historic small submersible research craft are ally, expeditions have been able to penetrate the Ross Sea, and visits under development. In the future, to this area arc certainly feasible small submersibles, perhaps carried with existing ships which, while by an icebreaker, will undoubtedly be used in antarctic waters. they are not icebreakers, have been "The future of the Antarctic as a strengthened to sail in the pack ice. scientific laboratory seems assured, Such ships under charter to Aus tralian, Belgian, British, French, and out what of its natural resources? South African expeditions have The most easily reached are those reached the coast at many points. of the sea. Since the 1890s, the So likely did an expansion of tour whales of the southern oceans have ism appear to the delegates at the been hunted for their oil and meat. Fourth Consultative Meeting of the International agreement, however, has failed to adequately protect the Antarctic Treaty powers — in Santi stock, and whaling is a declining ago, Chile, in 1966 — that they industry — perhaps a dying one. adopted a recommendation to regu While it might be possible under late it. careful regulation to harvest seals "The Antarctic, then, has modest and penguins, history discounts the prospects for tourism, and its seas promise. There are, though, the vast have real possibilities as a source quantities of plankton on which of food, but the pursuit of scientific most antarctic life is based, and the knowledge will long be its main Japanese and Soviets have been in attraction. Scientific data will re vestigating whether plankton can be main the chief export, and the men used for human nourishment. With who obtain it will continue to be the rapid growth of population in the principal inhabitants. No mone all parts of the world, every source tary value can be placed on scienti of food will be needed, and the abun fic discoveries, but anything which dant life of the southern seas may expands man's understanding of his contribute notably to the future of environment will help him improve mankind. his condition. If this should be the "Development of Antarctica's only value of Antarctica, it is value mineral resources is a remote event. enough." "ANTARCTIC" is published quarterly in March, June, September, and December. Subscription for non-members of the Antarctic Society, $2.50. Apply to the Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, New Zealand.

Out of Print: Very few left: Vo l u m e 1 n u m b e r s n u m b e r 8 1, 2, 9 Volume 2, numbers number 8 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 9 Volume 3, number 7 number 5 Some other issues are in very short supply. Copies of available issues may be obtained from the Secretary of the Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, at a cost of 50c per copy meanwhile. Indexes for volumes, 1, 2 and 3 are also available, 30c each. Copies of our predecessor, the Antarctic News Bulletin, are available at 50c per copy, except for numbers 9 and 10. The copies of numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 11, 17 and 18 are authorised reprints.

The New Zealand Antarctic Society comprises New Zealanders and overseas friends, many of whom have seen Antarctica for themselves, and all of whom are vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic exploration, development, or research. The Society has taken an active part in restoring and main taining the historic huts in the Ross Dependency, and plans to co-operate in securing suitable locations as repositories of Polar material of unique interest. There are currently two branches of the Society and functions are arranged throughout the year. You are invited to become a member. South Island residents should contact the Canterbury secretary, North Islanders should contact the Wellington secretary, and overseas residents the secretary of the New Zealand Society. For addresses see below. The membership fee includes subscription to "Antarctic". New Zealand Secretary Mr. V. E. Donnelly, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington.

Branch Secretaries Canterbury: Mrs. D. Braxton, P.O. Box 404, Christchurch. Wellington: Mr. V. E. Donnelly, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington. Printed by Universal Printers Ltd.. 21-23 Allen Street. Wellington.