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Home , Chilikadrotna River, Denali State Park, Gunsight Mountain, Kachemak Bay State Park, Matanuska Peak, MV Tustumena

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Heritage Museum 155 Alaska State Troopers 372 Alaska Hwy 71-2, 287, 304-7, 376, Alaska Tribal Cache 249 433 379, 420 Alaska Vistas 95 Alaska Indian Arts Center 135 Alaska Wild Berry Park 161 Alaska Islands & Ocean Visitor Alaska Zoo 160 Center 241 Alaska-Canada Military Hwy, see Alaska king crabs 326, 335 Alaska Hwy 20, 40, 44, Alaskan Brewing Company 129 118, 149, 336 Alava Bay 54 Alaska Marine Highway 7, 8, albatross 408 18, 336, 7 Albert Loop Trail 183 Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Alcan, the 71-2, 287, 304-7, 376, Refuge 392 379, 420 A Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act Aleut People 326, 350, 376, 388 AB Mountain 146 350, 380 7, 343-8, 378, 7 Abercrombie, Captain WR 194, 314 Alaska Native Heritage Center 13, accommodations 346 accommodations 17, 410-11, see also 155, 175, 386, 13 individual regions Alaska Native Medical 156 food 347 B&Bs 410 Alaska Natives 13, 47, 375, 385-90, hiking 346 cabins 31, 79, 97, 83 395, 387, 390 paddling 346 camping 21, 30-2, 411 Alaska Indian Arts Center 135 Aleutian Range 391 caravan parks 411 Alaska Native Heritage Center 13, Aleutian WWII Visitor Center 345 children, with 43-4 155, 175, 386, 13, 169, 388 Alone in the 372 hostels 411 Aleut People 326, 350, 376, 388 Alpine Historical Park 313 hotels 411 Alutiiq People 214-55, 388 Alpine Ridge Trail 253-4 motels 411 art & crafts 13, 87, 135, 386-8, 13, Alutiiq Museum & Archaeological Repository 327 wilderness cabins 42, 46, 79, 109, 385, 386 121, 205, 221 Aseuluk People 360 Alutiiq People 214-55, 388 Admiralty Island National Monument Athabascan People 258-9, 350, Alyeska View Trail 179 130-1, 398 375, 387, 388 Alyeska Resort Tram 179 adventure activities 30-6, see also Chugache People 214 Amalga Trail 120 individual activities culture 382, 385-90 American Bald Eagle Foundation 135 Afognak Island State Park 337 Cupik People 388 amusement parks 160 Age of Exploration 376 Dena’ina People 214 Anaktuvuk Pass 365, 389 Aialik Bay 226 Eyak People 388 Anan Creek 77 air travel 419-20, 421-2 Haida People 375, 387, 388 Anan Creek Wildlife Observatory 92 airlines 419 Haidas People 375 Anchorage 19, 26, 27, 29, 42, 46, airports 17, 419-20 Iñupiat People 13, 350, 368, 375, 153-78, 382, 396, 154, 156, 158, bush planes 11, 421, 11 376, 386, 388, 358 162, 8, 168, 169 flightseeing 34 language 388 accommodations 164-7 floatplanes 10, 27, 31, 43, 77, 82, 85, social issues 388 children, for 42, 160-1 88, 94, 97, 113, 123, 128, 130, 155, Tanana Chiefs Conference Cultural climate 396 166, 246, 277, 340, 342, 410, 421 Programs 289 cycling 157-8 to/from Alaska 419 Tlingit People 71, 85-6, 375, 387, drinking 172-3 within Alaska 421-2 388 entertainment 173-4 Akutan 343 Totem Heritage Center 76 festivals & events 164 Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum 155 Tsimshian People 388, 389 food 167-72 Alaska Bald Eagle Festival 25, 140 Yupik People 350, 375, 376, 388, hiking 159-60 Alaska Botanical Garden 156 388-9 mountain biking 33 Alaska brown bear 19, 337, see also Alaska Peninsula 337-43, 396 nightlife 8 Kodiak brown bear Alaska Pipeline 362 shopping 174-5 Alaska Day Festival 25, 110 Alaska Public Lands Information sights 153-5 Center 31, 289, 397 Alaska Department of Fish & Game tours 161 33 Alaska Railroad 26, 44, 176, 377, travel to/from 177 Alaska Experiment, The 384 378, 423 travel within 177-8 Alaska Folk Festival 22 391, 392 Anchorage Lightspeed Planet 160 Alaska Raptor Center 107 Anchorage Museum 18, 26, 153 Alaska SeaLife Center 43, 218 Angel Rocks Trail 298 000 Map pages Alaska State Capitol 115 Angel Rocks-Chena Hot Springs 000 Photo pages Alaska State Fair 24, 188, 23 Traverse 298 Angoon 130 Battery Point Trail 137 boat travel 7, 8, 7 434 animal rights 383 Bear & Raven Adventure Theatre Alaska Marine Highway ferry 7, 8, animals, see individual species, 160 18, 336, 7 wildlife Bear Country Music Festival 331 cruising 28, 37-41, 44, 28, 39 Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel 208 Bear Island 384 MV Tustumena 7, 8, 336, 7 Anton Larsen Pass 330 Bear River Glacier 88 Rainforest Islands Ferry 89 Anvil Mountain 354 bear viewing 7 to/from Alaska 421 ANWR, see Arctic National Wildlife Homer 242-3 within Alaska 422 INDEX Refuge Katmai 339-40 Bold Ridge Trail 185 Arctic Alaska 361-70 Ketchikan 77 Bomber Glacier 187 Arctic Bicycle Club 32 Wrangell 92-4 Bonanza Mine Trail 320 A-C Arctic Brotherhood Hall 144 Beardslee Islands 132 books 51, 373 Arctic Circle 12, 362 bears 7, 17, 19, 47, 77, 263, 326, 337, Bore Tide 179 Arctic Interagency Visitor Center 363 402, 414, 7, 393, 402 breweries 25, 129, 142, 329 Arctic 47, 50, safety 17, 414 Bridal Veil Falls 316 365, 372, 373, 374, 399 Beaver Creek Canoe Route 68, 68 Bristol Bay 399 Arctic warblers 286, 408 Beaver Lake–Herring Cove Loop 108 Brooks Falls 19, 339 area codes 417 beavers 63, 78, 183, 198, 232, 262, Brooks Range 47, 391, 393 arts & crafts 385-7, 385, 386, 387 404 brown bears 19, 337 Aseuluk People 360 Becharof Lake 337 Brynteson, John 355 Aspen Flats 59 beer budgets 16 Athabascan People 258-9, 350, 357, Alaskan Brewing Company 129 Bunker Hill 345 375, 387, 388 Great Alaska Beer Train 25 Bureau of Land Management 31, 397 cuisine of 18, 21 Haines Brewing Company 142 bus travel Atigun Pass 364 Kodiak Island Brewing Co 329 to/from Alaska 420 ATMs 415 Behm Canal 54 within Alaska 422 Audubon Society 329 Belanger Pass & Syncline Mountain Buschmann, Peter 71 Auke Bay 120 Trail 312 bush planes 11, 421, 11 aurora borealis, see northern lights beluga whales 21, 164, 178, 230, 234, automobile associations 422 372, 406 Bush, the 47, 349-70, 393, 396, 351 Beluga Point 179 bushwalking, see hiking Benny Benson Memorial 219 business hours 411 B Bering Land Bridge Byers Lake Loop Trail 281-2 B&Bs 410 360 Byron Glacier View Trail 182 backcountry conduct 32 Bering Sea 41, 343 backpacking 30-1, see also hiking Bering, Vitus 375, 376 bald eagles 408, 408 C Bernard Moore House 144 cabins 31, 79, 97, 83 Balls Lake Trail 89 Berners Bay 120 Ban Island 337 Caines Head State Recreation Area Bettles 365 220 Baranov Museum 327 Betton Island 78 Campbell Creek Trail 159 Baranov, Aleksandr 71, 376, 377 Big Delta State Historical Park 305 camping 21, 30, 30-2, 411 Barnette, ET 287 Birch Creek Canoe Route 302 Canada geese 408 Barometer Mountain 329 Birch Lake Military Recreation Site canoeing 34, 34-5, see also kayaking, Barrow 12, 366-70, 358 305 paddling, rafting accommodations 369 Bird Ridge Trail 178 Cantwell 284-5 birdwatching 368 birds 408, 198, 408, see also Canyon 272 food 370 individual species Captain Cook State Recreation travel to/from 370 birdwatching Area 234 Barrow Arctic Science Consortium Barrow 368 Cape Chiniak 334 367 Copper River Delta 22, 204, 205 car travel 15, 17, 420, 29 Barrymore, Drew 384 Cordova 204 automobile associations 422 Bartlett Cove 132, 133 Bishop’s Beach Trail 242 dangers 424 Bartlett River Trail 132 black bears 402 fuel 422 baseball 383 Black Rapids Glacier 314 gravel highways 297 basketry 387 Blind River Rapids Boardwalk insurance 422-3 100 road trips 15, 29, 29, 15 Blockhouse 105 RVs 424 000 Map pages Blueberry Festival 24 scenic drives 20 bluethroats 350, 408 000 Photo pages to/from Alaska 420-1 vehicle rental 297, 423 commercial fishing 374, 335 Ship Creek Bike Trail 158 within Alaska 422-4 consulates 412 Skagway 146 435 caravan parks 411 Cook Inlet 237 Tony Knowles Coastal Trail 158 caribou 47, 263, 403, 301, 403 Cook, Captain James 214, 377 Caribou Creek Trail 319 Cooper Lake 59 D Carl E Wynn Nature Center 242 Cooper Landing 228, 395 Dall porpoises 45 Copper River Delta 46, 189, 190, 207, Carlo Creek 270, 273 Dall sheep 404, 405 Carrie McLain Museum 352 189, 190

Dalton Hwy 361-4 INDEX Carroll Inlet 79 Copper River Delta Shorebird Festival 22, 204, 205 Dan Moller Trail 119 Carter Lake Trail 217, 228 Dawson City 309 Carter, Jimmy 380 Copper River Hwy 15, 20, 201

Deadhorse 361, 363, 364 C-D Cordova 46, 201-8, 202 carving 386-7 Deadliest Catch 79, 343, 347, 348, accommodations 205-6 Castle Hill & Totem Square 105 372, 384, 335 birding 204 Castle Hill 105 Deep Creek 237 cycling 204 caving 90 Deer Mountain Trail 59, 77 drinking 206-7 cell phones 17, 416-7 Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery & Chatanika River 291 food 206 Eagle Center 76 Chena Dome Trail 66, 298, 66 hiking 203-4 Delaney Park 155 paddling 204-5 Chena Hot Springs 43, 47, 299, 299 Delta Junction 305-7, 314 shopping 207 Chena Lakes Recreation Area 305 Canoe Route 285 sights 201-3 Chena River 291, 298 Dena’ina People 214-55 skiing 204 Chena River State Recreation Area Hwy 20, 29, 284-6, 301 travel to/from 208 398 Denali National Park & Preserve 6, mountain biking 34 travel within 208 14, 19, 258-75, 392-3, 398, 257, Chester Creek Bike Trail 158 Council 357 260-1, 262, 14 Chickaloon-Knik Nelchina Trail 312 courses accommodations 267-72 Chicken 308-9 Alaska Mountaineering School 278 backpacking 265-7 Chief Kowee 376 Denali National Park & Preserve children, for 42, 268 267 Chief Shakes Island 92 climate 396 Craggie Creek Trail 34, 187 children, travel with 42-4 courses 267-8 Crater Lake 203 amusement parks 160 cycling 266 Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl hiking 43 food 272-3 Refuge 287 20, 29, 46, 201, 199 highlights 47 Crescent Creek Trail 228 338 hiking 30, 264-6 Crooked Creek & Whiskey Island Chilkoot Pass 52 Railroad 289 itineraries 19, 26, 27 Chilkoot Trail 52-3, 71, 146, 378, 52 Cross Admiralty Island Canoe Route Park Rd 260-6 Chitina 317-18 62-3, 130, 62 rafting 21, 47, 267 46, 312, 391, 392 Crow Pass Trail 59, 179 ranger-led activities 264 31, 34 cruising 28, 37-41, 28, 39 sights 260-6 mountain biking 34 Cupik People 388 tours 266-7 19, 34, 58, 397 customs 411 travel to/from 274-5 Chugache People 214 cycling 32, 46, 422, see also moun- travel within 274-5 Church of the Holy Ascension 345 tain biking wildlife watching 263-4 cinema 372, 384 Campbell Creek Trail 159 Denali Outdoor Center 35 Clam Gulch 237 Chester Creek Bike Trail 158 281-2 clamming 237, 238 Denali National Park & Preserve Denver Caboose 146 Clausen Memorial Museum 98 266 Denver Glacier Trail 146 climate 16, 70, 74, 152, 190, 213, 256, Denali Park Rd 266 Dew Mound Trail 183 323, 349, 395-6 Fairbanks 290 Dewey Lakes Trail System 146 climate change 372, 397 Fairbanks Cycle Club 32 Diamond Creek Trail 242 clothing 387 Girdwood 46, 179-80 Dillingham 340 coffee 382 Haines 136 Dimond Park Aquatic Center 43 Cold Bay 342, 343 Haul Road 363 disabilities, travelers with 417 Coldfoot 363, 365 Kodiak Island 330 discount cards 412 Colony House Museum 186 Prince of Wales Island 89 diving 109, 208, 210 Colorado Creek Trail 303 road riding 32 Dixie Pass Route 65, 317, 65 Columbia Glacier 46, 192, 195-6 safety 33 DNR Public Information Center 31 combat fishing 20, 46, 229 Seldovia 250 Dock Point Trail 193 dogsledding 22, 284, 293, 383 Exxon Valdez 192, 196, 203, 326, Seward Music & Arts Festival 436 Fairbanks 293 381 24, 222 Iditaride 43 Eyak People 388 Sitka Summer Music Festival Iditarod Kennels 304 23 Seward 221 State Fair & Rodeo 331 F Summer Solstice Festival 217 Yukon Quest 293 Fairbanks 26, 286-98, 363, 288-9, Whalefest 25, 110 dolls 387 292 films 372, 384 Dolly’s House 76 accommodations 293-4 INDEX fish 407 dolphins 406 cycling 290 Fish Creek Hyder 77 Douglas 377 dog sledding 293 fishing 20, 32-3, 374, 335 driving, see car travel, motorcycle drinking 296 D-G children, with 42 travel festivals & events 293 combat fishing 20, 46, 229 Dude Mountain Trail 78 food 295-6 Dumpling Mountain 341 gold panning 291 commercial fishing 374, 335 Dutch Harbor 326, 343-8, 344 golf 291 Denali National Park 47 Dyea 145 hiking 290 Homer 20 paddling 290-1 46 Kenai River 20 E shopping 296-7 Kodiak 20 Eagle 309-10 sights 287-9 Russian River 20 Eagle Glacier 120 tours 292-3 Ship Creek 20 Eagle River 183 travel to/from 297 Soldotna 235-6 Eagle River Nature Center 58, 183 travel within 298 Upper Kenai 228-33 Eagle River Road 183 Fairbanks Community & Dog Mushing Flattop Mountain 19, 46 Eagle River 58 Museum 289 Flattop Mountain Trail 43, 159 Eagle Summit 302 Fairbanks Cycle Club 32 Flight of the King Islanders 360 Eagle Trail State Recreation Site 310 Fairview Inn 280 flightseeing 34 eagles 7, 408 False Pass 343 floatplanes 10, 27, 31, 43, 77, 82, 85, Earp, Wyatt 91, 355 Far North Bicentennial Park 34, 157 88, 94, 97, 113, 123, 128, 130, 155, Earthquake Park 156-7 FE Gold Camp 302 166, 246, 277, 340, 342, 410, 421 earthquakes 156-7, 192, 193, 379, Felix Pedro Monument 302 float trips, see canoeing, kayaking, 391 paddling, rafting , see boat travel East Glacier Loop 119 Fonte, Bartholomé de 376 festivals & events 22-5 economy 374 food 412 Alaska Bald Eagle Festival 25, 140 Edgerton Hwy 316-18 Forgotten War, the 378 Alaska Day Festival 25, 110 Egan, William A 379 Fort Abercrombie 326, 328 Alaska Folk Festival 22 eider 408 Fort Knox Gold Mine 287 Alaska State Fair 24, 188, 23 Eisenhower, Dwight 375, 379 Fort Schwatka 345 Bear Country Music Festival 331 Eklutna 184 Fort Seward 135 Blueberry Festival 24 Eklutna Lake 185 309 Copper River Delta Shorebird Elliot Hwy 303-4 Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum Festival 22, 204, 205 email 415 18, 287 Fourth of July 22, 24 embassies 412 Fourth Avenue (Anchorage) 155, Girdwood Forest Fair 22, 24, 178 embroidery 387 8, 168 Gold Rush Days 24, 197 Emerald Lake Trail 254 Fourth of July 22, 24 Iceworm Festival 205 emergencies 414-15 Fox 303 Shorebird Festival Endangered Species Act 372 foxes 340, 334 22, 243 environmental issues 372, 399 Frigid Crags 364 Kachemak Bay Wooden Boat climate change 372, 397 Festival 243 Frontierland Park 160 cruising 38 Kodiak Crab Festival 22, 331 Frozen Foot Saloon 363 Ermine Hill Trail 282 Little Norway Festival 22 fuel 422 events, see festivals & events Midnight Sun Festival 22, 23 Fuller Lakes Trail 232 Everybody Loves Whales 384 Moose Pass Summer Solstice fur traders 376 Exit Glacier 20, 220, 225, 231 Festival 23 Expedition Park 346 Nalukataq (Whaling Festival) 23 G Nalukataq Festival 366, 368 Gailland, Captain DD 88 Nenana River Wildwater Festival Galaup, Jean-François de 377 000 Map pages 35 Gates of the Arctic National Park & 000 Photo pages Polar Bear Jumpoff Festival 222 Preserve 47, 364-6, 393, 359 hiking 365 gold panning 36, 117, 291 Harding, Warren G 378 paddling 366 gold rush 377, see also Klondike Gold harlequin duck 408 437 tours 366 Rush, Nome Gold Rush Harper, Walter 278, 377 Gavan Hill Trail 107 Gold Rush Cemetery 145 Harris, Richard ‘Dick’ 71, 376 gay travelers 173, 413 Gold Rush Days 24, 197 Hatcher Pass 34 Genet, Ray 278 Gold Rush Town 288 Haul Road 361-4 geology 391-3 Golden Sands Beach 21, 351 Headquarters 235 George Inlet 79 golf 94, 291 health 413 George Parks Hwy 275-84 Good Friday Earthquake 156-7, Healy 271, 273 INDEX getting around 421-2 192, 193 heli-skiing 197 ghost tours 161 Goose Lake 157 Heney Ridge Trail 203 Grace Ridge Trail 254 G-H Girdwood 31, 79, 97, 178-82, 168 Henry, Sue 384 Granite Creek Trail 117 accommodations 180-1 Herbert Glacier Trail 120 Granite Tors Trail Loop 298 cycling 46, 179-80 Herring Creek 77 Grant Point Wildlife Overlook 343 food 181 hiking 19, 50-69, 57 Grayling Lake Trail 217 hiking 179 children, with 42-3 Great Alaska Beer Train 25 sights 179 hiking trails 59 Great Fairbanks Pub Paddle 291 tours 180 AB Mountain Trail 146 Great Kobuk Sand Dunes 393 travel to/from 182 Albert Loop Trail 183 Great One, the 265 travel within 182 Aleutian Islands 346 Grewingk Glacier Trail 253 Girdwood Forest Fair 22, 24, 178 Alpine Ridge Trail 253 Grigg, Robert 339 Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve Alyeska Glacier View Trail 179 grizzlies 7, 10, 47, 402, see also Alaska 9, 18, 19, 21, 34, 45, 131-4, 9 Amalga Trail 120 brown bears, Kodiak brown bears accommodations 133-4 Anchorage 19, 159-60 Grizzly Man 372 hiking 132 Angel Rocks Trail 298 Gulf of Alaska 41, 395, 396 paddling 132 Angel Rocks-Chena Hot Springs 315 tours 133 Traverse 298 Gull Island 252 Glacier Gardens Rain Forest 129 Anton Larsen Pass 330 Gull Rock Trail 216 Glacier Lake Trail 253, 286 Anvil Mountain 354 Gunsight Mountain 311 glacier trekking 33 Balls Lake Trail 89 Gustavus 18, 132, 133 courses 278 Barometer Mountain 329 Seward 220-2 Bartlett River Trail 132 20, 132, 394 H Battery Point Trail 137 Bear River Glacier 88 H2Oasis 161 Beaver Lake–Herring Cove Loop Black Rapids Glacier 314 Haida People 375, 387, 388 108 Childs Glacier 20, 29, 46, 201, 199 Haines 134-42, 136 Belanger Pass & Syncline Mountain Trail 312 Columbia Glacier 46, 192, 195 accommodations 138-40 Bird Ridge Trail 178 Exit Glacier 20, 220, 225, 231 cycling 136 Bishop’s Beach Trail 242 Hubbard Glacier 149 drinking 141 Bold Ridge Trail 185 Kennicott Glacier 320 festivals & events 138 Bomber Glacier 187 Knik Glacier 186 food 140-1 Bonanza Mine Trail 320 LeConte Glacier 71, 100 hiking 136-8 Byers Lake Loop Trail 281-2 Margerie Glacier 9 rafting 138 Byron Glacier View Trail 182 Matanuska Glacier 20, 43, 313, 378 shopping 141 sights 135-6 Caines Head State Recreation 12, 19, 20, 27, Area 220-2 45, 129, 12, 83 tours 138 Caribou Creek Trail 319 Peterson Glacier 15 travel to/from 142 Carter Lake Trail 217, 228 Portage Glacier 182 travel within 142 Chena Dome Trail 66, 298, 66 Root Glacier 320, 300 Haines Brewing Company 142 Chickaloon-Knik Nelchina Trail halibut 20 Worthington Glacier 316 System 312 Halibut Cove 252 Glenn Hwy 183, 311-14 Chilkoot Trail 52-3, 71, 146, 378, 52 Hammer Museum 135 Glennallen 311 Colorado Creek Trail 303 Harbor Mountain Trail 107 Glotov, Stepan 326 Craigie Creek Trail 34, 187 Harbor View Park 77 Goat Trail 194 Crater Lake Trail 203 Harding 20, 225, 231 Gobblers Knob 362 Crescent Creek Trail 228 Harding Ice Field Trail 225 gold 71 Crow Pass Trail 59, 179 Harding Lake State Recreation Gold Creek 71 Dan Moller Trail 119 Area 305 Gold Mint Trail 34, 187 Deer Mountain Trail 59, 77 hiking trails continued Lagoon Trail 253 Raven Trail 100 438 Denali National Park & Preserve 19 Lakeside Trail 34, 185 Red Shirt Lake Trail 275 Denali State Park 281-2 Landmark Gap Trail 286 Reed Lakes Trail 187 Denver Glacier Trail 146 Laughton Glacier Trail 146 Rendezvous Peak Route 160 Dew Mound Trail 183 Lazy Mountain Trail 187 Resurrection Pass Trail 61-2, 61 Dewey Lakes Trail System 146 Little Coal Creek Trail 282 Resurrection River Trail 226 Diamond Creek Trail 242 Lost Cabin Lake Trail 312 Roadside Trail 264 Dixie Pass Route 65, 317, 65 Lost Lake Trail 19, 220 Rock Creek Trail 264 INDEX Dock Point Trail 193 MacLaren Summit Trail 286 Rocky Ridge Trail 250 Dude Mountain Trail 78 Mae West Lake Trail 312 Rodak Nature Trail 183 East Glacier Loop 119 Married Man’s Trail 77 Root Glacier Trail 320 H Emerald Lake Trail 254 Matanuska Peak Trail 187 Russian Lakes Trail 59-60, 60 Ermine Hill Trail 282 Mat-Su Trails 187 Saddle Trail 253 Fairbanks 290 McHugh Lake Trail 160 Saddlebag Glacier Trail 204 Flattop Mountain Trail 43, 159 McKinley Lake Trail 204 Savage River Trail 265 Fuller Lakes Trail 232 McKinley Station Trail 264 Seduction Point Trail 137 Gates of the Arctic National Park & Mineral Creek Trail 194 Seldovia 249-50 Preserve 365 Montana Creek Trail 119 Seven Lakes Trail 232 Gavan Hill Trail 107 Mosquito Cove Trail 107 Seward 19, 219-21 Girdwood 179 Mt Alice Trail 220 Lodge Trails 312 Glacier Bay 132 Mt Dewey Trail 94 Sheridan Mountain Trail 204 Glacier Lake Trail 253, 286 Mt Edgecumbe Trail 108 Shotgun Cove Trail 209, 210 Goat Trail 194 Mt Healy Overlook Trail 265 Shoup Bay Trail 194 Gold Mint Trail 187 Mt Juneau Trail 117 Sitka 107-8 Grace Ridge Trail 254 Mt Marathon Trail 59, 219 Sitka Cross Trail 107 Granite Creek Trail 117 Mt Riley Trails 137 Skagway 146 Granite Tors Trail Loop 298 Mt Ripinsky Trail 137 Skilak Lookout Trail 232 Grayling Lake Trail 217 Mt Roberts Trail 10, 59, 119 Skookum Volcano Trail 319 Grewingk Glacier Trail 253 Mt Verstovia Trail 108 Skyline Trail 232 Gull Rock Trail 216 Nome 353-4 Solomon Gulch Trail 194 Haines 136-8 North Sister Mountain 329 Spaulding Trail 120 Harbor Mountain Trail 107 North Wrangell Trail 94 Steep Creek Trail 129 Harding Ice Field Trail 225-6 Nugget Creek Trail 119 Swede Lake Trail 286 Heney Ridge Trail 203 Nugget Falls Trail 129 Taiga Loop Trail 264 Herbert Glacier Trail 120 Nugget Trail 317 Telaquana Trail 338 Homestead Trail 242 Osar Lake Trail 286 Termination Point 329 Hope Point 216 Otterbahn Trail 249 Thoms Lake Trail 95 Horseshoe Lake Trail 43, 264 Perseverance Trail 43, 78, 117 Three Lakes Loop Trails 100 Hungry Point Trail 99 Petersburg Lake Trail 53-4, 100, 53 Tonsina 43 Iditarod National Historic Trail 47, Petersburg Mountain Trail 100 Trail of 182 58-9, 179, 183, 220-2, 58 Peterson Lake Trail 120 Triple Lakes Trail 18, 26, 264 Indian River Trail 107 Pinnell Mountain Trail 67, 302, 67 Troublesome Creek Trail 282 Indian Valley Trail 178 Pioneer Ridge Trail 188 Turnagain Arm Trail 178 Institute Creek 94 Pipeline Lakes Trail 204 Tutka/Jakolof Trail 250 Juneau 19, 117-20 Point Bishop Trail 119 Twelvemile Summit 302 253-4 Point Gustavus Beach Walk 132 Twin Lakes 338 Katmai National Park & Preserve Poot Peak 253 Twin Peaks Trail 185 340-1 Portage Pass Trail 209 Two Lakes Trail 220 Kenai National Park 225-6 Power Creek Trail 203 Ugadaga Bay Trail 346 Kenai River Trail 232 Primrose Trail 220 Uniktali Bay 346 Kesugi Ridge Traverse 282 Prince of Wales Island 89 Valdez 193-4 Ketchikan 77 Prince William Sound 46 Victor Creek Trail 217 Kodiak Island 329-30 Ptarmigan Creek Trail 217 Volunteer Park Trail 94 Kotsina Trail 317 Purinton Creek Trail 313 West Glacier Trail 59, 119 Pyramid Mountain 329 Whittier 209 Rainbird Trail 78 Williwaw Lakes Trail 59, 160 000 Map pages Rainbow Falls Trail 94 Windfall Lake Trail 119 000 Photo pages Ramp 159 Winner Creek Gorge 179 Trail 160 Ilanka Cultural Center 203 K Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail 316 Iliamna Lake 337 Kachemak Bay Shorebird Festival 439 Yakutania Point 146 Imaginarium 43 22, 243 Historical Park 328 Independence Mine State Historical Kachemak Bay State Park 253-5 history 375-81, see also gold rush Park 187 hiking 253-4 Russian history, WWII Indian River Trail 107 paddling 254-5 hitchhiking 151, 421 Indian Valley Mine 178 travel to/from 255 holidays 416 Indian Valley Trail 178 Kachemak Bay Wooden Boat Festival Holliday, Doc 355 indigenous people, see Alaska Natives 243 INDEX Homer 20, 238-48, 395, 240-1, 244 Inside Passage 41 Kamchatka Peninsula 343 accommodations 243-6 Insomnia 384 Kantishna 268 bear viewing 242-55 Institute Creek 94 Kantner, Seth 384 H-K drinking 247-8 insurance 414-5, 422-3 Karstens, Henry 278 fishing 20 Interior, the 256-322, 392-3, 396, 257 Katlian Bay 108 food 246-7 internet access 415 Katmai National Park & Preserve 10, hiking 242-55 internet resources 17, 51-2 19, 27, 47, 339-42, 398, 10 travel to/from 248 Into the Wild 372 bear viewing 339-40 travel within 248 Inuit, see Alaska Natives hiking 340-1 Homer Jackpot Halibut Derby 243 Iñupiat Heritage Center 367 paddling 341 Homer Spit 240, 231 Iñupiat People 13, 350, 368, 375, 376, tours 341 Homestead Trail 242 386, 388, 358 travel to/from 342 Hope 216-17 Isabel Pass 314 kayaking 15, 34-5, 101, 15, 20, 56, Hope Point 216 itineraries 26-9, 26, 27, 28, 29 57, see also canoeing, paddling, rafting horseback riding 228, 299 ivory 386 Kenai 233-5 Horseshoe Lake Trail 43, 264 Izaak Walton Recreation Site 233 Kenai Beach 234 Horsetail Falls 210, 316 Izembek National Wildlife Refuge 343 Kenai Fjords National Park 15, 19, 21, hostels 411 26, 31, 46, 225-7, 392, 395, 398, hot springs J 3, 15, 20 Chena Hot Springs 299 Jans, Nick 384 accommodations 227 Hutlinana Warm Springs 303 Japanese bombing 378 hiking 225-6 Manley Hot Springs 303-4 Jewell Gardens 145 paddling 15, 46, 226 Pilgrim Hot Springs 360 John Muir Cabin 120 tours 226-7 Serpentine Hot Springs 360 Johnson Pass Trails 34 Kenai Mountains 391, 396 Tolovana Hot Springs 303 Juneau 14, 19, 27, 28, 37, 45, 70-129, Kenai National Wildlife Refuge 232-3, hotels 411 377, 114-5, 14 235, 392, 397, 398 Hubbard Glacier 149 accommodations 123-4 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Canoe Huck Hobbit’s Homestead 319 cabins 121 Trail System 232 Hummel, John 355 drinking 126 Kenai Peninsula 46, 213, 213-55, 392, humpback whales 404 entertainment 127 395, 395-6, 215 Hungry Point Trail 99 festivals & events 24, 122 children, for 42 Hurricane Turn 20 food 124-5 fishing 46 Hurricane Turn Train 277 for children 121 Kenai River 20, 46 Hutlinana Warm Springs 303 gold panning 117 fishing 20 Hyder 88 hiking 117-20 rafting 21 history 71-2 Kenai River Trail 232 Kennecott 320-2 I paddling 120-1 Kennecott Mill Town 320 ice climbing 33, 300 shopping 127 Kennicott Glacier 320 Ice Museum 299 sights 115-17 Kennicott River 317 icebergs 9, 9 tours 122 Kesugi Ridge Traverse 282 Iceworm Festival 205 travel to/from 128-9 Ketchikan 7, 28, 37, 71, 74-85, 75 Icy Waves Surf Shop 149 travel within 128-9 accommodations 80 Iditaride 43 whale watching 120 activities 77-9 Iditarod 22, 383 ziplining 121 bear watching 77 Iditarod Finish-Line Arch 353 Juneau Arts and Culture Center 18 drinking 84 Iditarod Kennels 304 Juneau Freewheelers 32 festivals & events 80 Iditarod National Historic Trail 47, Juneau, Joe 71, 376 food 81-4 58-9, 179, 183, 220-2, 58 Juneau-Douglas City Museum 115 hiking 77 Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race 380 Junior Ranger Activity Center 143 Ketchikan continued L McCarthy Rd 9, 316-18, 9 440 paddling 78 Lagoon Trail 253 McCarthy-Kennecott Historical shopping 84 National Park & Preserve Museum 318 sights 76-8 337-8, 57 McCloskey, Bill 384 tours 79 Lake Trail 53 McHugh Lake Trail 160 travel to/from 85 Lakeside Trail 34, 185 McKinley Lake 204 travel within 85 Landmark Gap Trail 286 McKinley Lake Trail 204 Keystone Canyon 316 Large Animal Research Station 288 McKinley Station Trail 264 INDEX killer whales 406 Last Chance Mining Museum 115 McKinley Village 270, 272 king crabs 343 Last Spruce 364 McKinley, William 265 Kincaid Park 33, 157 Last Train to Nowhere 357 media 372 K-M king crab fishery 399 Laughton Glacier Trail 146 Mendenhall Glacier 12, 19, 20, 27, 45, King Island 360 laws 415 129, 12, 83 King Salmon 338-9 Lazy Mountain Trail 187 Mendenhall Lake 120 Klawock Totem Park 89 LeConte Glacier 71, 100 Mendenhall River 12 Klondike Gold Rush 71, 355, 377, 378, lesbian travelers 173, 413 Metlakatla 118 384, 397 Liberty Falls State Recreation Site midnight sun 12, 12 Klondike Gold Rush National 316 Midnight Sun Baseball Game 291 Historical Park 397 Lindblom, Erik 355 Midnight Sun Festival 22, 23 Knik Glacier 186 Lindeberg, Jafet 355 Million Dollar Bridge 201, 198 Knob Lake 312 literature 384 Mineral Creek Trail 194 393 Little Coal Creek Trail 282 Minto 303 Kobuk Valley National Park 393 Little Norway Festival 22 Misty Fiords National Monument 19, Kodiak 37, 47, 327-36, 396, 328 London, Jack 384 34, 54-5, 86, 86-7, 398, 54, 57 fishing 20 loon 408 mobile phones 17, 416-7 hiking 329-30 Lost Cabin Lake Trail 312 Moe, Tommy 381 surfing 36 Lost Lake Trail 19, 220 money 17, 415, 415-16 Kodiak Archipelago 326, 392 Lowe River 196 Montana Creek Trail 34, 119 Kodiak brown bears 47, 326 Lower Chatanika River State Moore, Bernard 144 Kodiak Crab Festival 22, 331 Recreation Area 303 Moore, Captain William 144 Kodiak Island 7, 326-37, 392, 334 lynx 404, 401 Moore House 144 accommodations 331-2 Lynx Lake Loop 275 moose 263, 403, 402 cycling 330 Moose Pass 217 drinking 333 M Moose Pass Summer Solstice Festival 23 festivals & events 331 MacLaren Summit Trail 286 Morris Thompson Cultural & Visitor food 332-3 Mae West Lake Trail 312 Center 18, 21, 289 for children 330 Maksoutoff’s Grave 105 hiking 329-30 Mosquito Cove Trail 107 mammals 402-4, 406-7, 406, 407, motels 411 paddling 330 see also individual species motorcycle travel 420 tours 330 Manley Hot Springs 303-4 automobile associations 422 travel to/from 333 maps 415 dangers 424 Kodiak Island Brewing Co 329 Margaret Creek 77 fuel 422 Kodiak Military History Museum Margerie Glacier 9 328 gravel highways 297 marine mammals 406-7, 406, 407 Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge 19, insurance 422-3 Marine Park 116 31, 327, 337, 398 road trips 15, 29, 29, 15 Married Man’s Trail 77 Kodiak State Fair & Rodeo 24 scenic drives 20 Marshall, Robert 364 Kotsina Trail 317 to/from Alaska 420-1 Mascot Saloon Museum 143 Kotzebue 47 within Alaska 422-4 Matanuska Glacier 20, 43, 313, 378 Kougarok Rd 357 mountain biking 33-4 Matanuska Peak Trail 187 Koyukuk River 364 Belanger Pass & Syncline Mountain 313 Krasinski, John 384 Trail 312 Matanuska Valley Agricultural Kuskokwim River 399 Chugach National Forest 34 Showcase 186 Kuskulana River Bridge 317 Craggie Creek Trail 34 Mat-Su Miners 188 Far North Bicentennial Park 34 Mat-Su Trails 187 Girdwood 46 Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum 193 Gold Mint Trail 34 000 Map pages McCain, John 184, 373 Hatcher Pass 34 000 Photo pages McCarthy 9, 29, 318-20, 9 Johnson Pass Trails 34 Lakeside Trail 34, 185 Mt McKinley Climber’s Memorial Southeast Alaska Discovery Montana Creek Trail 34 278 Center 76 441 Perserverance Trail 34 Mt Redoubt 337 Tongass Historical Museum 76 Prince of Wales Island 89 Mt Riley Trails 137 University of Alaska Museum of the Resurrection Pass 34 Mt Ripinsky Trail 137 North 287 Root Glacier Trail 320 Mt Roberts 19, 45 Valdez Museum 193 Russian River 34 Mt Roberts Trail 10, 59, 119 Wiseman Historical Museum 363 Seward 220-1 Mt Roberts Tramway 10, 116, 10 Wrangell Museum 92, 97 mountain goats 404 Mt St Elias 47 mushing, see dogsledding INDEX mountaineering 35-6, 278 Mt Verstovia Trail 108 musk ox 47 courses 278 Mud Bay 237 Musk Ox Farm 186 mountains 391 Muir Inlet 131 Muskeg Meadows Golf Course 94 M-N AB Mountain 146 Muir, John 96 MV Kennicott 40 Alaska Range 391, 392 mukluks 387 MV Tustumena 40, 336, 342, 7 Aleutian Range 391 338 Anvil Mountain 354 Murkowski, Frank 373 N Barometer Mountain 329 Murkowski, Governor Frank 184 Nabesna Rd 319 Brooks Range 47, 391, 393 museums Naha Bay 77, 78 Chugach Mountains 46, 312, Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum Nalukataq (Whaling Festival) 23, 391, 392 155 366, 368 Denali 6, 34, 47, 258, 260, 265, 278, Alaska Heritage Museum 155 Nancy Lake State Recreation Area 377, 391, 6, 300 Alutiiq Museum & Archaeological 275 Dumpling Mountain 341 Repository 327 national monuments Flattop Mountain 19, 46 American Bald Eagle Admiralty Island National Gunsight Mountain 311 Foundation 135 Monument 130-1, 398 Kenai Mountains 391, 396 Anchorage Museum 18, 26, 153 Misty Fiords National Monument Mt Boreal 364 Baranov Museum 327 19, 54-5, 54, 57 Mt Foraker 47 Carrie McLain Museum 352 31, 397 Mt Hunter 47 Clausen Memorial Museum 98 national parks & preserves 397 Mt Iliamna 337 Colony House Museum 186 Bering Land Bridge National Fairbanks Community & Dog Preserve 350, 360 Mt Marathon 19, 230, 230 Mushing Museum 289 Denali National Park 19, 26, 27, 30 Mt McKinley 6, 34, 47, 258, 260, Fountainhead Antique Auto 265, 278, 377, 391, 6, 300 Gates of the Arctic National Park & Museum 18, 287 Preserve 47, 364-6, 393, 359 Mt Redoubt 337 Hammer Museum 135 Glacier Bay National Park & Mt St Elias 47 Ice Museum 299 Preserve 9, 18, 19, 21, 34, 45, North Sister Mountain 329 Juneau-Douglas City Museum 115 131-4, 9 Pillar Mountain 328 Junior Ranger Activity Center 143 Katmai National Park & Preserve Pyramid Mountain 329 Kodiak Military History Museum 10, 19, 27, 47, 339-42, 398, 10 St Elias Range 391 328 Kenai Fjords National Park 15, 19, Sukakpak Mountain 364 Last Chance Mining Museum 115 21, 26, 31, 46, 225-7, 392, 395, 392 Mascot Saloon Museum 143 398, 3, 15, 20 White Mountains 31, 392 Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum 393 Wrangell Mountains 315, 392 193 Wrangell-St Elias National Park 34, Mt Alice Trail 220 McCarthy-Kennecott Historical 316-22, 393, 398 Mt Boreal 364 Museum 318 National Recreation Reservation Service 54, 130 Mt Dewey Trail 94 Museum of the Aleutians 345 natural gas 379 Mt Edgecumbe Trail 108 Pioneer Air Transportation Museum Nenana 283-4 Mt Foraker 47 288 Nenana Ice Classic 283 Mt Healy Overlook Trail 265 Pratt Museum 241 Nenana River 285 Mt Hunter 47 Prince William Sound Museum 210 Nenana River Wildwater Festival 35 Mt Iliamna 337 ‘Remembering Old Valdez’ annex 193 Nikolaevsk 239 Mt Juneau Trail 117 Seward Museum 219 Ninilchik 237, 238 Mt Marathon 19, 230 Sheldon Jackson Museum 105, 110 Nixon, Richard 380 Mt Marathon Race 24, 222, 230 Sheldon Museum 135 Nizina Canyon 21, 321 Mt Marathon Trail 59, 219 Sitka Historical Society Museum Nizina River 21, 321 Mt McKinley 6, 34, 47, 258, 260, 265, 104 Noatak National Preserve 393 278, 377, 391, 6, 300 Skagway Museum 143 Nome 14, 350-6, , climbing 260, 278 353 14 Soldotna Homestead Museum 235 accommodations 354-5 Nome continued children, with 43 Seldovia 250 442 drinking 356 white-water 21, 35 Seward 221-2 food 355-6 paddling routes Shelikof Bay 108 hiking 353-4 Aialik Bay 226 Shoup Bay 195 sights 351-3 Alaska Vistas 95 Sitka 108-9 tours 354 Aleutian Islands 346 Sixmile Creek 216 travel to/from 356 Auke Bay 120 Swan Lake Canoe Route 63-4, 64 travel within 356 Beardslee Islands 132 Taku Inlet 120 INDEX Nome Gold Rush 350, 351-2, 355 Beaver Creek Canoe Route 68, 68 Tanana River 291 North Pole 302 Berners Bay 120 Thomas Bay 100 North Pole Post Office 302 Betton Island 78 338 N-P North Sister Mountain 329 Birch Creek Canoe Route 302 -Fords Terror Wilderness North Slope, the 47 Carrol Inlet 79 55-8, 55, 56 North Wrangell 94 Chatanika River 291 Upper Tangle Lakes Canoe Route North Wrangell Trail 94 Chena River 291, 298 285 Northern Exposure 384 Chilikadrotna River 338 Valdez 195-6 northern lights 13, 16, 47, 294, 2, 13 Columbia Glacier 195-6 West Chichagof 108 Northern Panhandle 103-51 Cooper Landing 228 Whittier 209-10 Northwestern Lagoon 226 Cross Admiralty Island Canoe Wood-Tikchik State Park 340 Novarupta Volcano 339 Route 62-3, 130, 62 Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve 310 Nugget Creek Trail 119 Delta River Canoe Route 285 Palin, Sarah 184, 372, 373, 381 Nugget Falls Trail 129 Eagle 310 Palmer 185-9, 378, Nugget Trail 317 Eklutna Lake 185 23 accommodations 188 Nunapitchuk 382 Fairbanks 290-1 food 189 Nzima River 21, 231 Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve 366 Park 313 George Inlet 79 Park Rd (Denali) 14, 260-1 O Glacier Bay National Park & Parks Canada 52 Obama, President Barack 399 Preserve 132 Parnell, Sean 373 oil 374, 379, 380, 399 Great Fairbanks Pub Paddle 291 passports 419 Old Believers 239 Gulkana River 315 Paxson 314 Old Valdez 193 Juneau 120-1 Paxson to Sourdough Float 315 orcas 406 Kachemak Bay State Park 254-5 Pebble Mine 399 Osar Lake Trail Hiking 286 Katlian Bay 108 Pedro, Felix 287 Oscar Anderson House 153 Katmai National Park & Preserve Pelican 118 Otterbahn Trail 249 341 Pennock, Homer 239 otters 45, 404, 335, 405 Kenai Fjords National Park 15, Perseverance Trail 43, 78, 117 46, 226 outdoor activities 30-6, 411, see also mountain biking 34 individual activities Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Petersburg 53, 98-103, 99 books 51 Canoe Trail System 232 accommodations 101-2 for children 42 Kenai Peninsula 46 drinking 103 resources 51-2 Ketchikan 78 eating 102-3 tours 51 Kodiak Island 330 hiking 99-100 Outside Beach 249 LeConte Glacier 100 Lowe River 196 paddling 100 Lynx Lake Loop 275 sights 98-9 P Mendenhall Lake 120 tours 101 Pacific Mountain System 391 Misty Fiords National Monument whale watching 100 Pacific Northwest 395 19, 54-5, 54, 57 Petersburg Creek 100 Pack Creek 77, 130-1 Mulchatna River 338 Petersburg Lake Trail 53-4, 100, 53 packrafting 21, see also paddling, Naha Bay 78 Petersburg Mountain Trail 100 rafting Nenana River 285 Peterson Bay Field Station 253 paddling 15, 19, 34-5, 50-69, 15, 20, Peterson Glacier 15 56, 57, see also canoeing, Northwestern Lagoon 226 Peterson Lake Cabin 120 kayaking, rafting Paxson to Sourdough Float 315 Peterson Lake Trail 120 blue-water paddling 34-5 Petersburg Creek 100 Prince of Wales Island 89 Petroglyph Beach 43, 92 Prince William Sound 19, 46, phones 416 000 Map pages 191, 199 Pilgrim Hot Springs 360 000 Photo pages Savonoski Loop 69, 69 Pillar Mountain 328 Pinnell Mountain Trail 67, 302, 67 Matanuska River 313 Kenai River 20, 21, 46 Pioneer Air Transportation Museum Nizina River 21 Kennicott River 317 443 288 Skagway 146-7 Kobuk River 393 Pioneer Park 288 Talkeetna River 21, 47 Koyukuk River 364 Pioneer Ridge Trail 188 Tatshenshini-Alsek River system Mendenhall River 12 Pipeline Lakes Trail 204 138 Mulchatna River 338 Platform 153 railways, see train travel Nizina River 21, 321 Point Barrow 19, 27, 367, 395 Rainbird Trail 78 Russian River 20, 46 Point Bishop Trail 119 Rainbow Falls Trail 94 Stikine River 96 INDEX Point Bridget State Park 130 rainfall 392, 395-6 Talkeetna River 21, 47 Point Gustavus Beach Walk 132 Rainforest Islands Ferry 89, 97, 103 Tlikakila River 338 P-S Polar Bear Jumpoff Festival 222 rainforest walks 45 Yukon River 47, 383, 399 Polar Bear Swim 352 Ramp 159 Roadside Trail 264 polar bears 7, 19, 47, 402, 359 Raven Trail 100 road trips 15, 29, 29, 15 Pollack 399 Ray ‘the Pirate’ Genet 278 rock climbing 35-6, 278 Poot Peak 253 Reagan, President Ronald 399 Rock Creek Trail 264 Porcupine Creek State Recreation recreation areas Rocky Ridge Trail 250 Site 310 Caines Head State Recreation Rodak Nature Trail 183 porpoises 406 Area 220 Root Glacier 320, 300 Portage Glacier 182 Captain Cook State Recreation Root Glacier Trail 320 Portage Pass Trail 209 Area 234 Rudyerd Bay 54 Portland Canal 54 Chena Lakes Recreation Area 305 Running of the Boots Celebration 110 post 416 Chena River State Recreation Area 398 Russell Wilderness 149 Potter Marsh 178 Harding Lake State Recreation Russian Bishop’s House 105 Power Creek Trail 203 Area 305 Russian culture 104-6, 112, 184, 238 Powerline Pass Trail 34 Lower Chatanika River State Russian history 71, 213, 239, 249, mountain biking 34 Recreation Area 303 326, 342, 345, 346, 375-7 practicalities 413 Nancy Lake State Recreation museums 115, 219, 233, 327 Pratt Museum 241 Area 275 Russian Jack Springs Park 157 Primrose Trail 220 White Mountain National Recrea- Russian Lakes Trail 59-60, 60 Prince of Wales Island 87-91 tion Area 31 Russian River 20, 46, 59 caving 90 Red Shirt Lake Trail 275 mountain biking 34 cycling 89 Redington Sr, Joe 304, 383 Russian-American Company 71, 375 hiking 89 Reed Lakes Trail 187 RVs 424 mountain biking 89 Refuge Visitor Center 327 paddling 89 Regional Parks 397 Prince William Sound 19, 46, 190-212, regulations 411 S Saddle Trail 253 392, 395-6, 191, 199 Reid Falls 145 Saddlebag Glacier Trail 204 hiking 46 Reid, Frank 71 safety paddling 46 Reindeer Farm 186 bears 17, 414 Prince William Sound Museum 210 ‘Remembering Old Valdez’ annex 193 Safety Sound 357 Prince William Sound Science 203 Rendezvous Peak Route 160 Salcha River State Recreation Site ptarmigan 408 Resolution Park 155 305 Ptarmigan Creek Trail 217 resorts 411 salmon 20, 89, 407 public holidays 416 responsible travel 419 Salmon Bake 10, 10 puffins 404, 408 Resurrection Bay 19, 26 Salmon Canneries 203 Punchbowl Cove 54 Resurrection Pass 34 salmon industry 71 Purinton Creek Trail 313 Resurrection Pass Trail 61-2, 61 Salmon Lake 357 Pyrah’s Farm 186 Resurrection River Trail 226 Santa Claus House 302 Pyramid Mountain 329 Reumayr, Alfred 362 Sarah Palin’s Alaska 372 Richardson Hwy 313-16 Savage River Trail 265 Riddles, Libby 380 R Savonoski Loop 69, 69 Rika’s Roadhouse and Landing 305 rafting 21, 35, see also canoeing, Saxman Native Village & Totem kayaking, paddling river otters 404, 405 Park 85 Denali National Park & Preserve river running, see canoeing, scenic drives 20 21, 47, 267 kayaking, paddling, rafting Schwatka 345 Haines 138 rivers sea otters 45, 335 Kenai River 21 Chilikadrotna River 338 seals 45, 404, 407, 406 security 419 entertainment 112 Spaulding Trail 120 444 Seduction Point Trail 137 festivals & events 110 sport 383 Seldovia 249-53, 395 food 111-12 SS Lavelle Young 287 accommodations 250-1 hiking 107-8 SS Nenana 288 cycling 250 paddling 108-9 St Elias Range 391 food 251 sights 104-6 St Michael’s Cathedral 104 hiking 249-50 surfing 36 St Nicholas Russian Orthodox paddling 250 tours 109-10 Church 116 INDEX tours 250-1 travel to/from 113 St Paul Boat Harbor 328 travel to/from 251-3 travel within 113 Stan Price State Wildlife Seldovia Village Tribe Visitor 249 Sitka Cross Trail 107 Sanctuary 130 S-T September 11 419 Sitka Historical Society Museum 104 Stanebow, Dana 384 Serpentine Hot Springs 360 Sitka National Historical Park 106 State Fair & Rodeo 331 Service, Robert 12, 384 Sitka Sound Science Center 43, 106 state parks 397 Seven Lakes Trail 232 Sitka Spruce Park 346 Afognak Island State Park 337 Chugach State Park 19, 34, 58, 397 Seward 26, 29, 37, 218-25, 218 Sitka Summer Music Festival 23 Denali State Park 281-2 accommodations 222-3 Sitka Trail Works 107 Kachemak Bay State Park 253-5 climate 395 Sitka WhaleFest 406 Point Bridget State Park 130 dogsledding 221 Sixmile Creek 216 337 drinking 224 Skagway 24, 28, 37, 142-51, 377, Wood-Tikchik State Park 47, 268, festivals & events 222 144, 82 340, 397 food 223-4 accommodations 148-9 Station 288 glacier trekking 220 cycling 146 Steep Creek 19, 77 hiking 19, 219-21 drinking 150 Steep Creek Trail 129 mountain biking 220-1 festivals & events 147-8 Steese Hwy 302-3 paddling 221-2 food 149-50 Sterling Hwy 227-55 wilderness cabins 221-2 hiking 146 Stevens, Ted 372, 380 Seward Hwy 15, 178, 214-27, 15, 230 rafting 146-7 Stikine River 96 Seward Museum 219 sights 143-6 Stookum Pass 357 Seward Music & Arts Festival 24, 222 tours 147 Street of Stairs 76 Seward, William H 376, 377 travel to/from 151 Stuck, Hudson 278 Shakes Community House 92 travel within 151 suicide 383 Sheep Mountain Lodge Trails 312 ziplining 147 Sukakpak Mountain 364 sheep, see Dall sheep Skagway Museum 143 Summer Solstice Festival 217 Sheldon Jackson Museum 105, 110 skiing 197, 204 surfing 36 Sheldon Museum 135 Skilak Lookout Trail 232 sustainable travel 352 Sheldon, Don 278 Skookum Volcano Trail 319 Swan Lake Canoe Route 63-4, 64 Shelikhov, Grigorii 326, 375 Skyline Trail 232 Swede Lake Trail 286 Shelikof Bay 108 sled dogs 383, see also dogsledding swimming 161, 352 Sheridan Mountain Trail 204 Small-Boat Harbor 193, 203, 219 Ship Creek 20 Smith, Jefferson Randolph ‘Soapy’ 71 Ship Creek Bike Trail 158 Smith’s longspurs 408 T Ship Creek Viewing 153 Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center Taiga 394 153 Shishmaref 397 Taiga Loop Trail 264 snorkeling 79, 109 Shotgun Cove Trail 209, 210 Taku Glacier Lodge 123 snowy owls 408 Shoup Bay 195 Taku Inlet 120 social issues 383 Shoup Bay Trail 194 Talkeetna 29, 276-81 Soldotna 235-7, 395 Shrine of St Terese 130 Talkeetna Mountains 392 Soldotna Homestead Museum 235 Shuyak Island State Park 337 Talkeetna River 21, 47 Solomon 357 Silver Salmon Derby 222 Tanana Chiefs Conference Cultural Solomon Gulch Trail 194 Sitka 21, 28, 71, 103-13, 378, Programs 289 104-5, 39, 82 Sourdough Expedition 278 Tanana River 291 accommodations 110-11 Southeast Alaska 42, 45, 70-151, Tangle Lakes Archeological District 391-2, 395, 72-3 285 drinking 112 Southeast Alaska Discovery 76 Tatshenshini-Alsek River system 138 Southeast Alaska State Fair 24 Tatum, Robert 278 000 Map pages Southern Panhandle 74-103 taxis 17 000 Photo pages Southwest Alaska 47, 392, 396, Taylor Hwy 307-10 324-5 Telaquana Trail 338 Alaska Railroad 26, 44, 176, 377, travel to/from 201 telephones 416 378, 424 423 Valdez Museum 193 445 television 384 Crooked Creek & Whiskey Island Valley of 10,000 Smokes 47, 339, Teller 360 Railroad 289 341 Tenakee Springs 118 Hurricane Turn Train 277-81 Valley of the Moon Park 160 Termination Point 329 White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad vegetation 394-5 11, 71, Tern Lake 227 11 Victor Creek Trail 217 with children 44 Thomas Basin 76 Village of Ship Creek Center 155 within Alaska 424 INDEX Thomas Bay 100 visas 17, 417-18 Trans-Alaska Pipeline 287, 362, 381 Thompson Pass 316 visual arts 179 Trans-Alaska Pipeline Terminal 193 Thoms Lake Trail 95 volcanoes 392 transportation 17, 419-24, see also air T-W Three Lakes Loop Trails 100 Volunteer Park Trail 94 travel, boat travel, bus travel, car volunteering 418 Thunderbird Falls 183 travel, train travel time 417 trekking, see hiking tipping 416 Triple Lakes Trail 18, 26, 264 W Tlikakila River 338 Troublesome Creek Trail 282 Walker Cove 54 Tlingit People 71, 85-6, 375, 387, 388 trout 20 Wallis, Velma 384 Tok 306-7 Trusty Tusty, see MV Tustumena walruses 407, 406 Tok Cutoff 310-11 Tsimshian People 388 Ward Lake Nature Walk 78 Tolovana Hot Springs 303 tundra 394 Washburn, Bradford 278 Tongass Historical Museum 76 Turnagain Arm 179, 214 Washington, Ethel 387 31, 45 Turnagain Arm Trail 178 waterfalls Tonsina 43 Turnagain Pass 214-15 Bridal Veil Falls 316 Tony Knowles Coastal Trail 158 Tustumena, see MV Tustumena Brooks Falls 19, 339 Top of the World Hwy 309 Tutka/Jakolof Trail 250 Horsetail Falls 210, 316 Totem Heritage Center 76 Twelvemile Summit 302 Thunderbird Falls 183 totem poles 87, 169 Twin Lakes 338 Waterfowl Refuge 287 Totem Square 105 Twin Peaks Trail 185 weather 395-6 Tougher in Alaska 384 Two Lakes Trail 220 Wells Fargo Bank 144 tourist information 417 West Chichagof 108 tours 51 West Glacier Trail 59, 119 U Aleutian Islands 346 Western Alaska 350-61 Ugadaga Bay Trail 346 Anchorage 161 whale watching 21 Uganik Island 337 Denali National Park & Preserve Petersburg 100 Ukivok 360 266-7 Sitka 109 Ukpiagvik 368 Fairbanks 292-3 Whalefest 25, 110 Unalaska 47, 343-8, 396, 344, 335 Gates of the Arctic National Park & whales 8, 21, 45, 164, 178, 230, 234, Uniktali Bay 346 Preserve 366 372, 404, 406, 8, 407 University of Alaska Anchorage 157 Girdwood 180 whaling 23, 368, 376 University of Alaska Museum of the Glacier Bay 133 wheateaters 408 North 287 Haines 138 Whiskey Gulch 237 Upper Russian Lake 59 Juneau 122 White Mountain National Recreation Upper Tangle Lakes Canoe Route 285 Katmai National Park & Preserve Area 31 US Fish & Wildlife Service 397 341 White Mountains 31, 392 USS Northwestern Memorial 346 Kenai Fjords National Park 226-7 White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad Kennecott 321 11, 71, 11 Kodiak Island 330 V Whittier 46, 208-12, 395 Nome 354 vacations 416 accommodations 211 Seldovia 250-1 Valdez 29, 46, 192-201, 380, 395, diving 210 Sitka 109-10 194 food 211-12 Skagway 147 accommodations 197-200 hiking 209 to/from Alaska 421 drinking 200 paddling 209-10 Valdez 196 food 200 tours 211 Whittier 211 heli-skiing 197 travel to/from 212 Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness hiking 193-4 wilderness cabins 209-10 55-8, 398, 55, 56 paddling 195-6 Wickersham State Historical Site Trail of Blue Ice 182 sights 193-4 116 Trail of Time 119 tours 196-7 Wickersham, James 278 train travel 26, 424, 26 Wilderness Area 398 Willow Lake 315 Wrangell Mountains 315, 392 446 wilderness cabins 42 Windfall Lake Cabin 120 Wrangell Museum 92, 97 Cordova 205 Windfall Lake Trail 119 Wrangell, Ferdinand von 265 Juneau 121 Winner Creek Gorge 179 Wrangell-St Elias National Park 34, Ketchikan 79 Winstanley 54 316-22, 393, 398 Prince William Sound 46 Wiseman 363, 365 WWII 47, 71, 192, 326, 345, 378, 379 Seward 221 Wiseman Historical Museum 363 Sitka 109 Wolverine Peak Trail 160

INDEX Y Whittier 209 wolves 263, 404, 405-6 Yakutania Point 146 wildlife 401-8, see also individual women travelers 418 Yakutat 149, 39 species Wonder Lake 21, 393 surfing 36 W-Z wildlife reserves Wood-Tikchik State Park 47, 268, Young, Don 372 Alaska Maritime National Wildlife 340, 397 Yukon Quest 293 Refuge 392 paddling 340 Yukon River 47, 383, 399 Alaska Raptor Center 107 World Eskimo-Indian Olympics 383 Yukon River Bridge 362 Creamer’s Field Migratory Water- Worthington Glacier Ridge Trail 316 fowl Refuge 287 Yukon-Charley Rivers National Worthington Glacier State Recreation Preserve 310, 393 Izembek National Wildlife Refuge Site 316 343 Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta 382 Wrangell 28, 71, 91-7, 93 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge 232- Yupik People 350, 375, 376, 388, 3, 235, 392, 397, 398 accommodations 95-6 388-9 Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge 19, activities 92-4 drinking 97 31, 327, 337, 398 Z eating 96-7 Large Animal Research Station 288 ziplining 72, 77 festivals & events 95 wildlife, watching 43, see also bear Juneau 121 viewing, birdwatching, whale hiking 94 Ketchikan 79 watching sights 92 Skagway 147 Williwaw Lakes Trail 59, 160 travel to/from 97 Willow 71 travel within 97

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages 447

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking Look out for these icons: Beaches Festivals & Events Entertainment r z 3 Our author’s o recommendation 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping No payment Information/ F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry a strong commitment to p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro sustainability – for example by supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube environmentally friendly way, i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram or supporting conservation d Train projects. Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Drinking Routes Geographic Beach Drinking Tollway Hut/Shelter Buddhist Cafe Freeway Lighthouse Castle Primary Lookout Entertainment Christian Secondary Mountain/Volcano Entertainment Hindu Tertiary Oasis Islamic Shopping Lane Park Jewish Shopping Unsealed Road Pass Monument Plaza/Mall Picnic Area Information Museum/Gallery Steps Waterfall Post Office Ruin Tunnel Tourist Information Hydrography Winery/Vineyard Pedestrian River/Creek Zoo Transport Overpass Intermittent River Other Sight Airport Walking Tour Swamp/Mangrove Border Crossing Walking Tour Activities, Courses Reef Bus Detour & Tours Path Canal Cable Car/ Diving/Snorkelling Water Funicular Boundaries Canoeing/Kayaking Cycling Dry/Salt/ International Skiing Ferry Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier Surfing Metro Disputed Swimming/Pool Monorail Areas Regional/Suburb Walking Parking Beach/Desert Marine Park Windsurfing S-Bahn Cemetery Cliff Other Activity/ Taxi (Christian) Wall Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Train/Railway Park/Forest Sleeping Tram Population Sportsground Sleeping Tube Station Capital (National) Sight (Building) Camping U-Bahn Capital Top Sight Other Transport (State/Province) Eating City/Large Town (Building) Eating Town/Village Behind the Scenes 427

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OUR READERS Catherine Bodry Many thanks to the following travelers I’m very grateful to Cat Craddock-Carrillo who used the last edition and wrote to us for commissioning me and answering ques- with helpful hints, useful advice and inter- tions, as well as Anna Metcalfe. Robert Kelly esting anecdotes: was a co-author extraordinaire and totally Deeanne Akerson, Garret Akerson, Jörg on his game – thanks for all your help. On Berning, Laura Brumfield, Scott Donaldson, the road, I received an assortment of sug- Michael Hentschke, Edward Hotchkiss, gestions, couches, tips, support and more Anabelen Jimenez-Carro, Patrick Kabouw, from, in particular: Mike and Lyn Perry, Petra Meier, Trevor Miller, Gary Moore, Annie Alexandra Gutierrez, Jeff Dickrell and Kari Patterson, Karl Rhoads, Stephen Rowe, Anderson. Will Schlein gets a special shout- Alice Savage, Kate Sullivan, Judith Thomas, out for research help and seeing me through Liesje Van Der Peet, Charles Warner, Martha to the deadline. Waters. Robert Kelly Many thanks to my co-authors, especially AUTHOR THANKS Catherine for letting me crash at her place. To the staff at so many park and visitor Jim DuFresne centers: your help was beyond what I ex- Thanks to my longtime Alaskan friends: pected. Countless Alaskans and travelers Todd, Ed, Sue, Jeff , Dragon and Buckwheat also deserve credit for answering questions, for putting me up and putting up with me. giving me feedback, and making me feel this I’ll always be indebted to Annette, Dave, work is valued. To Johnny Cash, the traveling Aurora, Brian and the rest of the gang at the cat, cheers for entertaining me in Fairbanks. Clarkston Post Offi ce for keeping the home Finally, to Huei-ming, thanks again for hold- front stable while I was gone. Finally here’s ing down the fort while I was gone. to Postcard Margaret, Rachelle, Marlena and, most of all, my son Michael for high adventures on the Chilkoot and memorable evenings in Juneau. 428 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

Cover photograph: Grizzly bear, Mt McKinley;

BEHIND THE SCENES Allen Prier/Photolibrary. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanet images.com.

THIS BOOK Coordinating Cartogra- Assisting Editors Susie Julie Dodkins Ashworth, Janet Austin, Janice This 10th edition of Lonely pher Bird, Amy Karafin Planet’s Alaska guidebook was Coordinating Layout researched and written by Jim Designer Mazzy Prinsep Assisting Cartographers DuFresne, Catherine Bodry and Managing Editor Anna Jane Chapman, Mick Garrett, Eve Robert Kelly. The previous edition Metcalfe Kelly, Sophie Reed was researched and written by Senior Editors Victoria Har- Cover Research Jim DuFresne, Greg Benchwick rison, Susan Paterson, Angela Naomi Parker and Catherine Bodry. This Tinson Internal Image Research guidebook was commissioned in Managing Cartographers Sabrina Dalbesio, Rebecca Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, Shahara Ahmed, Alison Lyall, Skinner and produced by the following: Andy Rojas Thanks to Lucy Birchley, Ryan Commissioning Editor Managing Layout Evans, Yvonne Kirk, Brigitte Elle- Catherine Craddock-Carrillo Designers Chris Girdler, Jane mor, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Coordinating Editors Hart Averil Robertson, Gerard Walker Lauren Hunt, Pat Kinsella ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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