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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. my mum and dad for giving me the freedom to travel OUR READERS and their many visits to this part of the world. Thanks Many thanks to the travellers who used the last to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful in Southeast Asia who have helped to shape my advice and interesting anecdotes: knowledge and experience in this region. Thanks also A Anna Meisser, Anne Fortin B Billy Allen, Bonnie to my co-authors for going the extra mile to ensure Cheung, Brittney Laver C Carla Giustozzi, this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the Christopher Sadler, Colin Pischke D Daniel Cox Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. The E Eduard Ringe, Erica Wijarnako F Florian Reichert authors may be the public face, but a huge amount of G George Bloomfield H Heather Adams, Hendriekje work goes into making this a better book behind the Decorte J Johann Schelesnak, Johannes Wölfel, scenes and I thank you all for your hard work. John Roberts K Katarzyna Jaklewicz, Katie Ingham L Lauren Marinigh, Laurie Collard, Leorah McGinnis, Isabel Albiston Lucie Samohylova M Manon van der Steen, Matias Thanks to everyone who helped out along the way, Rivera, Michelle Biggs, Miriam Ganem-Rosen, Moritz especially Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Laux N Nadia Muttalib, Nadine Timm O Ola Wawrzon, Mado in Pa Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Oliver Heard, Omar Risk P Pam Gould R Rick Beunk, Leslie Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum Romuald Chasseur, Ruth Obando S Sam Hoagland, and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Cheers Sander Jansen, Sandro Ferrari, Sarah Anthony also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac for T Thomas Wiser V Viktoria Jokisch making me laugh and to my friends and family for their love and support. Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah. AUTHOR THANKS Greg Bloom A huge thanks to my dedicated research assistant, Nick Ray Windi, for toughing it out with me in various locales. As always a huge and heartfelt thanks to the peo- Being an RA is a tough job but somebody has to do ple of Southeast Asia, whose warmth and humour, it. The cumulative knowledge of my barkada (gang stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling of friends) in Manila was elemental as usual. Thanks place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my as always to Anna for her sanity-inducing sweetness lovely wife, Kulikar Sotho, as without her support on deadline. Thank you Alan in Sagada, and thanks and encouragement the adventures would not be to the gentlemen of the Mabanlay dap-ay (outdoor possible. And to our young children, Julian and Belle, meeting place) in Dagdag for inviting me to your for enlivening our lives immeasurably. Many thanks to begnas (traditional community celebration). 960 Ria de Jong Hanafi; Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Stuart, Rucina and Thank you to Destination Editor Sarah Reid for Kerry and Milt Turner. Off-Bali: Amber Clifton, Paul holding my hand through my first Lonely Planet Landgraver, Ilham, Saripa, Philip, Edwin and many, adventure, and to Cristian Bonetto who trod the many more were generous with time, ideas and path before me. To my parents and sister who expertise. And Alexis Averbuck, who I once met in nurtured my love of the road less travelled and Bali and who I married while writing this book. BEHIND THE SCENES to Craig, Cisca and William who are my travelling circus tribe. Richard Waters My sincere thanks to the people of Laos who David Eimer welcome me like an old friend every time I’m Much gratitude to Htwe Htwe in Hsipaw for tips lucky enough to visit, and to my editor, Laura, for and transport and Samara and Yu Yu for Yangon sending me back there again. In no particular order guidance. Thanks to Laura Crawford and the rest of my thanks also to Eliz V, Dennis, Mr Saly, Harp, the Lonely Planet team in London. As ever, thanks Marcus, Michel S, Ivan, Matt V, Basile and finally to everyone who passed on advice along the way, my wife and kids who allow me to disappear to whether knowingly or unwittingly. strange places. Sarah Reid China Williams Thank you to my managers at Lonely Planet for Thanks to my children, Felix and Phoebe, and my supporting my amazing Timor-Leste adventure; to husband, Matt, for being my best travelling com- my brilliant local guide Luis for your careful driving, panions. And thanks to my beloved Thai friends infinite patience and wealth of local knowledge; and former students who I get to hang out with on to all the other kind, helpful people I met in a daily basis on Facebook. Thanks to Sarah Reid Timor-Leste (shout-outs to Des, Neyl, Megan and for making room for me on this project, and finally Dan) and finally to Timmy, my partner in travel to all of Lonely Planet’s other Thailand writers who and in life. assisted on the project. Simon Richmond Terima kasih (thank you) to the following: Nozara ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Yusof, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson McMurtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn. BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Iain Stewart ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Thanks to Nick Ray, Laura Crawford and the Lonely Planet editorial and production staff. On the Illustrations p94-5, p652-3 and p854-5 by Michael ground we benefited from a fine team of authors: Weldon. Anna, Brett, Jess and Ben. Hi to Slo and Mark in Cover photograph: Temple detail, Angkor, HCMC, Caroline and Neil, Vinh Vu, Ben and Bich, Cambodia/Csilla Zelko 500px © Howard and Deb, Mark and Dzung in Hoi An. Ryan Ver Berkmoes Many thanks to friends like the extraordinary Amy Brenneman, Romy and Lola; the incomparable 961 Robert Scott Kelly and Brett Product Editors Kate THIS BOOK Stewart. Original research Mathews, Luna Soo This 18th edition of Lonely for Myanmar was provided Senior Cartographer Diana Planet’s Southeast Asia on by David Eimer. Additional Von Holdt research for Singapore a Shoestring guidebook was Book Designer Wendy Wright researched and written by was provided by Cristian Assisting Editors Carolyn Bonetto. Additional research Nick Ray, Isabel Albiston, Greg Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Paul for Thailand was provided Bloom, Ria de Jong, David Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Ali by Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Eimer, Sarah Reid, Simon Lemer, Jodie Martire, Susan Joe Bindloss, Austin Bush, Richmond, Iain Stewart, Ryan Paterson, Ross Taylor, Amanda David Eimer, Bruce Evans, Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters Williamson and China Williams. Damian Harper and Isabella Julie Dodkins, Additional research for Noble. Additional research Cartographers Michael Garrett, Valentina Cambodia was provided for Vietnam was provided by Kremenchuskaya, Alison Lyall, by Jessica Lee. Additional Brett Atkinson, Anna Kamin- Julie Sheridan research for Indonesia was ski, Jessica Lee and Benedict provided by Loren Bell, Stuart Walker. This guidebook was Cover Researcher Campbell Butler, Trent Holden, Anna commissioned and produced McKenzie Kaminski, Hugh McNaugh- by the following: Thanks to Anita Banh, Grace ten, Adam Skolnick and Iain Destination Editors Laura Dobell, Bruce Evans, Mao Stewart. Additional research Crawford, Sarah Reid Monkolransey, Catherine for Malaysia was provided by Coordinating Editor Andrea Naghten, Stephen Nolan, Greg Benchwick, Anita Isalska, Dobbin Kirsten Rawlings, Juan Winata ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 962 Index A Komodo dragons 240, 14 Ban Lung 133-6, 134 Boracay 573-4 accommodation 22, 41, macaques 209, 624 Banaue 565-6 China Beach 862 934, see also individual monkeys 677, 843 Banda Aceh 272-3 Hat Khao Lak 757-8 locations orangutans 270, 276, 277- Banda Islands 292-4 Indonesia 151 activities 27-30, 42-51, see 8, 444, 458, 459 Bandaneira 293-4 Ko Chang 731 also birdwatching, diving turtles 419, 422 Bandar Seri Begawan Ko Samui 739 & snorkelling, kayaking, whale sharks 273, 568, 59-64, 60 Koh Rong 122 kitesurfing, rafting, 578, 593 rock climbing, surfing, Bandarlampung 265 Malaysia 380 trekking Annah Rais 458-9 Bandung 168 Mui Ne 875 adventure tours Apo Island 579 Bangar 64 Nha Trang Beach 869 Cambodia 113, 114, architecture 26, 762, 927 Bangkok 12, 645-71, 648-9, Phu Thuan beach 859 117, 137 art galleries, see museums 654-5, 658-9, 12 Pulau Tioman 419 & galleries Indonesia 169, 251, 278 accommodation 657-61 Sao Beach 897-8 arts 26, 927 Laos 329, 337, 342, 351, drinking & nightlife 666-7 Sihanoukville 116-17 Asean Economic Commu- 358, 363-4 entertainment 667 Thuan An Beach 859 nity 917,