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Behind the Scenes

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my mum and dad for giving me the freedom to travel OUR READERS and their many visits to this part of the world. Thanks Many thanks to the travellers who used the last to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful in Southeast Asia who have helped to shape my advice and interesting anecdotes: knowledge and experience in this region. Thanks also A Anna Meisser, Anne Fortin B Billy Allen, Bonnie to my co-authors for going the extra mile to ensure Cheung, Brittney Laver C Carla Giustozzi, this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the Christopher Sadler, Colin Pischke D Daniel Cox Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. The E Eduard Ringe, Erica Wijarnako F Florian Reichert authors may be the public face, but a huge amount of G George Bloomfield H Heather Adams, Hendriekje work goes into making this a better book behind the Decorte J Johann Schelesnak, Johannes Wölfel, scenes and I thank you all for your hard work. John Roberts K Katarzyna Jaklewicz, Katie Ingham L Lauren Marinigh, Laurie Collard, Leorah McGinnis, Isabel Albiston Lucie Samohylova M Manon van der Steen, Matias Thanks to everyone who helped out along the way, Rivera, Michelle Biggs, Miriam Ganem-Rosen, Moritz especially Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Laux N Nadia Muttalib, Nadine Timm O Ola Wawrzon, Mado in Pa Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Oliver Heard, Omar Risk P Pam Gould R Rick Beunk, Leslie Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum Romuald Chasseur, Ruth Obando S Sam Hoagland, and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Cheers Sander Jansen, Sandro Ferrari, Sarah Anthony also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac for T Thomas Wiser V Viktoria Jokisch making me laugh and to my friends and family for their love and support. Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah. AUTHOR THANKS Greg Bloom A huge thanks to my dedicated research assistant, Nick Ray Windi, for toughing it out with me in various locales. As always a huge and heartfelt thanks to the peo- Being an RA is a tough job but somebody has to do ple of Southeast Asia, whose warmth and humour, it. The cumulative knowledge of my barkada (gang stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling of friends) in Manila was elemental as usual. Thanks place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my as always to Anna for her sanity-inducing sweetness lovely wife, Kulikar Sotho, as without her support on deadline. Thank you Alan in Sagada, and thanks and encouragement the adventures would not be to the gentlemen of the Mabanlay dap-ay (outdoor possible. And to our young children, Julian and Belle, meeting place) in Dagdag for inviting me to your for enlivening our lives immeasurably. Many thanks to begnas (traditional community celebration). 960 Ria de Jong Hanafi; Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Stuart, Rucina and Thank you to Destination Editor Sarah Reid for Kerry and Milt Turner. Off-: Amber Clifton, Paul holding my hand through my first Lonely Planet Landgraver, Ilham, Saripa, Philip, Edwin and many, adventure, and to Cristian Bonetto who trod the many more were generous with time, ideas and path before me. To my parents and sister who expertise. And Alexis Averbuck, who I once met in nurtured my love of the road less travelled and Bali and who I married while writing this book.

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND to Craig, Cisca and William who are my travelling circus tribe. Richard Waters My sincere thanks to the people of who David Eimer welcome me like an old friend every time I’m Much gratitude to Htwe Htwe in Hsipaw for tips lucky enough to visit, and to my editor, Laura, for and transport and Samara and Yu Yu for Yangon sending me back there again. In no particular order guidance. Thanks to Laura Crawford and the rest of my thanks also to Eliz V, Dennis, Mr Saly, Harp, the Lonely Planet team in London. As ever, thanks Marcus, Michel S, Ivan, Matt V, Basile and finally to everyone who passed on advice along the way, my wife and kids who allow me to disappear to whether knowingly or unwittingly. strange places. Sarah Reid China Williams Thank you to my managers at Lonely Planet for Thanks to my children, Felix and Phoebe, and my supporting my amazing Timor-Leste adventure; to husband, Matt, for being my best travelling com- my brilliant local guide Luis for your careful driving, panions. And thanks to my beloved Thai friends infinite patience and wealth of local knowledge; and former students who I get to hang out with on to all the other kind, helpful people I met in a daily basis on Facebook. Thanks to Sarah Reid Timor-Leste (shout-outs to Des, Neyl, Megan and for making room for me on this project, and finally Dan) and finally to Timmy, my partner in travel to all of Lonely Planet’s other writers who and in life. assisted on the project. Simon Richmond Terima kasih (thank you) to the following: Nozara ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Yusof, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson McMurtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn. BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Iain Stewart ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Thanks to Nick Ray, Laura Crawford and the Lonely Planet editorial and production staff. On the Illustrations p94-5, p652-3 and p854-5 by Michael ground we benefited from a fine team of authors: Weldon. Anna, Brett, Jess and Ben. Hi to Slo and Mark in Cover photograph: Temple detail, Angkor, HCMC, Caroline and Neil, Vinh Vu, Ben and Bich, /Csilla Zelko 500px © Howard and Deb, Mark and Dzung in Hoi An. Ryan Ver Berkmoes Many thanks to friends like the extraordinary Amy Brenneman, Romy and Lola; the incomparable 961

Robert Scott Kelly and Brett Product Editors Kate THIS BOOK Stewart. Original research Mathews, Luna Soo This 18th edition of Lonely for was provided Senior Cartographer Diana Planet’s Southeast Asia on by David Eimer. Additional Von Holdt research for a Shoestring guidebook was Book Designer Wendy Wright researched and written by was provided by Cristian Assisting Editors Carolyn Bonetto. Additional research Nick Ray, Isabel Albiston, Greg Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Paul for Thailand was provided Bloom, Ria de Jong, David Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Ali by Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Eimer, Sarah Reid, Simon Lemer, Jodie Martire, Susan Joe Bindloss, Austin Bush, Richmond, Iain Stewart, Ryan Paterson, Ross Taylor, Amanda David Eimer, Bruce Evans, Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters Williamson and China Williams. Damian Harper and Isabella Julie Dodkins, Additional research for Noble. Additional research Cartographers Michael Garrett, Valentina Cambodia was provided for was provided by Kremenchuskaya, Alison Lyall, by Jessica Lee. Additional Brett Atkinson, Anna Kamin- Julie Sheridan research for was ski, Jessica Lee and Benedict provided by Loren Bell, Stuart Walker. This guidebook was Cover Researcher Campbell Butler, Trent Holden, Anna commissioned and produced McKenzie Kaminski, Hugh McNaugh- by the following: Thanks to Anita Banh, Grace ten, Adam Skolnick and Iain Destination Editors Laura Dobell, Bruce Evans, Mao Stewart. Additional research Crawford, Sarah Reid Monkolransey, Catherine for was provided by Coordinating Editor Andrea Naghten, Stephen Nolan, Greg Benchwick, Anita Isalska, Dobbin Kirsten Rawlings, Juan Winata ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 962

Index

A dragons 240, 14 Ban Lung 133-6, 134 Boracay 573-4 accommodation 22, 41, macaques 209, 624 Banaue 565-6 China Beach 862 934, see also individual monkeys 677, 843 Banda Aceh 272-3 Hat Khao Lak 757-8 locations orangutans 270, 276, 277- Banda Islands 292-4 Indonesia 151 activities 27-30, 42-51, see 8, 444, 458, 459 Bandaneira 293-4 Ko Chang 731 also birdwatching, diving turtles 419, 422 Bandar Seri Begawan 739 & snorkelling, kayaking, whale sharks 273, 568, 59-64, 60 122 kitesurfing, rafting, 578, 593 rock climbing, surfing, Bandarlampung 265 Malaysia 380 trekking Annah Rais 458-9 Bandung 168 Mui Ne 875 adventure tours Apo Island 579 Bangar 64 Nha Trang Beach 869 Cambodia 113, 114, architecture 26, 762, 927 Bangkok 12, 645-71, 648-9, Phu Thuan beach 859 117, 137 art galleries, see 654-5, 658-9, 12 Pulau Tioman 419 & galleries Indonesia 169, 251, 278 accommodation 657-61 Sao Beach 897-8 arts 26, 927 Laos 329, 337, 342, 351, drinking & nightlife 666-7 116-17 Asean Economic Commu- 358, 363-4 entertainment 667 Thuan An Beach 859 nity 917, 920 Malaysia 401 festivals & events 656 Vietnam 812 Atauro Island 798-9 Vietnam 847, 879 food 661-6 Belaga 462-8 Air Batang 419 Ayeyarwady 527 gay & lesbian travellers Berastagi 265-7, 266 Ayuthaya 671-6, 672 air travel 939, 940-1 666 Berau 279 Alor 248 information 668-9 Betano 802-3 Alor Setar 413-14 B shopping 667-71 bicycle travel, see cycling, Amarapura 517 Ba Be National Park 836-7 sights 645-56 mountain biking Amed 217 Bac Ha 837-8 tours 656 Bilu Kyun 500-1 Ampana 287 Bach Ma National Park 857 travel to/from 669 Bima 239 amusement parks 625 Bagan 12, 521-30, 522, 525, travel within 669-71 Bingin 203 An Thoi Islands 897 12, 37 Banteay Srei 104-5 Bintulu 463 Anakalang 252 Bago 496-7 Banyuwangi 191-4 birdwatching 51, 877 Andaman Coast 754-74 Baguia 800 bargaining 23, 936 boat travel 939-40, 941 Ang Thong Marine National Baguio 562-4 Bario 468-9 boat trips 46-7 Park 737 Bai Lang 868 Batad 566-7 Cambodia 72, 117, 124 Angkor, temples of 11, 94-5, 834 Batang Rejang 461-3 Indonesia 171, 242 101-6, 90-1, 10-11, 94-5 Bajawa 245 bathing 934 Malaysia 398, 430, 461-3 itineraries 102 Bako National Park 457 bathrooms 937-8, see Myanmar (Burma) 527 animals, see also dolphin-­ Balangan Beach 203 also individual countries Thailand 698 watching, elephant Battambang 106-10, 108 encounters, wildlife Bali 14, 192-222, 193, 14 Vietnam 833, 843, 872 383 reserves & sanctuaries, dangers 192 Bogor 166-8, 167 wildlife-watching history 192 Batu Karas 171 Bohol 587-90 butterflies 92 travel to/from 192-4 Batugad 801 Bokor Hill Station 127 doucs 139 travel within 194 Batutumonga 287 Bokor National Park 127 dugong 793 Balian Beach 221 Baucau 799 Bomba 288 exploitation 304 Balibó 801 Bayon 103 Bondowoso 189 gibbons 138, 139, 190, 355 Baliem Valley 297-9 beaches 25, 46 Bontoc 565 Balikpapan 278 An Bang 868 books 916 bà·mèe 662, 662 Bai Dai Beach 874 Cambodia 145 Map Pages 000 bamboo train 107 Bali 195, 203, 207-8, 216, health 952 Photo Pages 225-6, 228-9, 238-9 000 Ban Khoun Kham 356 history 921 963 Indonesia 301 drinks 57 gay & lesbian travellers Tham Kong Lo 356 Myanmar (Burma) 537 embassies 66 146 Vang Vieng 329 religion 927 emergencies 57 geography 143-4 Vieng Xai 348-9 Vietnam 904 environment 66 highlights 70-1 Wind Cave 459 Boracay 573-8, 574 exchange rates 57 history 139-42 Xe Bang Fai 360 border crossings 939, 940, food 56, 57, 66 insurance 145 Cebu 580-7 942-4 gay & lesbian travellers internet access 145 Cebu City 581-6, 582-3 INDEX -Malaysia 63 66 itineraries 69 cell phones 21 Cambodia-Laos 133 highlights 58 language 69, 142 cemeteries Cambodia-Thailand history 65-7 legal matters 146 Bukit China 398  -B–C 100, 111 internet access 66 maps 146 Chung Kai War Cemetery

 Cambodia-Vietnam 85, itineraries 57 money 69, 146 712 105, 128, 135 language 57 opening hours 146-7 Kanchanaburi War Indonesia-Malaysia legal matters 66 planning 70-1 Cemetery 711 272, 277 money 57, 67 politics 139 Santa Cruz Cemetery Indonesia–Papua New opening hours 67 population 142 792 Guinea 297 telephone services 67 postal services 147 Truong Son National Indonesia-Singapore 253 Cemetery 859 tourist offices 67 public holidays 147 Indonesia–Timor-Leste 188-9 travel seasons 56 religion 142 250 Chaliang 682 travel to/from 67 safety 146, 147-8 Laos-Cambodia 370 Cham Islands 868-9 visas 57, 67 telephone services 148 Laos-China 351 Champasak 366-7 women travellers 67 time 148 Laos-Thailand 328, 352, Chanthaburi 728-30 357, 364 Buddhism 924-5 travel to/from 149 Chau Doc 896 Laos-Vietnam 346, budget 21, 40-1 travel within 149-50 Cherating 422 358, 360 Bukit Lawang 270-1 visas 148 Chi Phat 115 Malaysia-Brunei 449, 465 Bukit Peninsula 202-5 volunteering 148-9 Chiang Khong 705-6 Malaysia-Indonesia 400, Bukit Timah Nature wildlife 144 Reserve 624 Chiang Mai 15, 685-97, 417, 447, 455 work 149 Bukittinggi 258-61, 260 686-7, 15 Malaysia-Singapore 418 Cameron Highlands 401-3, Burma, see Myanmar accommodation 691-3 Malaysia-Thailand 413, 402 Burmese language 953-4 activities 689 415, 429 Camiguin 591-2 bus travel 941 courses 689-90 Myanmar (Burma)– Can Tho 894-5 China 521 bushwalking, see trekking drinking & nightlife 695 Candidasa 218 Myanmar (Burma)–Thai- business hours, see entertainment 695 Canggu 201-2 land 502, 509 individual countries festivals & events 691 car travel 941-5 Singapore-Indonesia 641 food 693-5 Singapore-Malaysia 640 Cat Ba Island 832-6 C information 696-7 Thailand-Cambodia Cat Ba National Park 833 Cambodia 52, 68-150, 70-1 shopping 695-6 731, 732 Cat Tien National Park 877 accommodation 144-5 sights 685-8 Thailand-Laos 703, cathedrals, see churches & activities 69, 145 travel to/from 697 724, 727 cathedrals arts 143 travel within 697 Thailand-Malaysia caves 50 754, 774 books 145 Batu Caves 383 Chiang Rai 698-703, 700 Thailand–Myanmar border crossings 85, 100, Fairy Cave 459 Chiang Saen 705 105, 111, 128, 133, 135 (Burma) 704, 715, Goa Gajah 216 children, travel with, see budget 69 individual countries 717, 756 Gomantong Caves 445 climate 68 China 917 Timor-Leste–Indonesia Gunung Mulu National 797 consulates 145 Park 466-7 China Beach 862 Vietnam-Cambodia 879, culture 142 Killing Caves of Phnom Chong Kneas 98 893, 898 customs regulations 145 Sampeau 110 Christianity 927 Vietnam-China 837 disabilities, travellers Niah National Park 463 Chua Bai Dinh 843 Vietnam-Laos 842, with 148 Pak Ou Caves 336 737-8 848, 849 drink 143 Phnom Chhnork 126 churches & cathedrals 181-2 economy 139 Phnom Sorsia 126-7 Gereja Sion 154-5 Brunei Darussalam 52, electricity 145 Phong Nha-Ke Bang Notre Dame Cathedral 56-67, 58 embassies 145 National Park 19, 882 accommodation 66 emergencies 69 846-7, 19 St Paul’s Church 395-7 border crossings 63 environmental issues 144 Puerto Princesa Subter- Cianjur 168 consulates 66 exchange rates 69 ranean River National climate 20, 27-30 culture 66 food 143, 145 Park 594 Com 800 964 consulates 935 dengue 948 driving, see car travel gay & lesbian travellers 935 Brunei Darussalam 66 Denpasar 205-7, 206 Dumaguete 578-9 Malaysia 475 Cambodia 145 Dien Bien Phu 841-2 Duong Dong 897 Myanmar (Burma) 540 Indonesia 308 Dieng Plateau 172 604 Laos 376 Singapore 639 Dili 792-8, 794 E Malaysia 474 accommodation 795 economy 916-17, 920-1 Thailand 784 INDEX INDEX Myanmar (Burma) 539 activities 793 El Nido 596-8 Vietnam 909 Philippines 604 drinking & nightlife electricity 935, see also in- George Town 14, 405-11, Singapore 639 796-7 dividual countries 406, 14 C–H Thailand 783-4 festivals & events 793-5 elephant encounters 271, Gili Air 231-3, 232  Timor-Leste 808-9 food 796 689, 707, 722, 731 19, 230-7, 19  Vietnam 908 information 797-8 embassies, see consulates, Gili Meno 233-4, 234 individual countries cooking courses shopping 797 Gili Trawangan 234-8, 236 Cambodia 72, 93, 107 sights 792-3 emergencies, see individual Gilimanuk 221-2 countries Laos 321, 336 tours 793 Golden Triangle 703-6 Ende 245-6 Singapore 626-7 travel to/from 798 golf 93 environmental issues 930-1 Thailand 689-90 travel within 798 Gorontalo 288-9 Vietnam 824, 865, 886 disabilities, travellers deforestation 144, 305, 349, 374-5, 473-4, 538, Grand (Bangkok) COPE Visitor Centre 322 with 938 603, 782, 808, 930 645, 650, 652-3, 652-3 Cordillera, the 562-7 Malaysia 476 endangered animals 538, Gunung Batukau 220 Myanmar (Burma) 542 Coron 598-9 782, 906-7 Gunung Batur 218-19 Philippines 605 costs 21, 40-1 pollution 907 Gunung Bromo 187-9 Singapore 640 courses, see cooking silting 603 Gunung Gading National courses, language Thailand 786 Erawan National Park 714 Park 459-60 courses, individual Vietnam 910 ethnic groups Gunung Kawi 216 locations discount cards 934 Akha 780, 922 Gunung Leuser National Cu Chi 893-4 discrimination 934-5 Park 270 Hmong 780, 922 Cuc Phuong National Park diving & snorkelling 47-8 Gunung Merapi 180 843-6 Karen 780, 922 Bali (Indonesia) 208, 217, Gunung Mulu National Park Ngada 245 culture 26, see also indi- 219, 222 466-8 vidual countries Rohingya 530, 778 Cambodia 117, 123 Gunung Rinjani 227, 228 currency, see money Toraja 283, 286 (Indonesia) Gunung Sibayak 266 customs regulations, 279 etiquette 23 see individual countries Malaysia 419, 425, 446, Brunei Darussalam 67 cutaneous larva migrans 448 Indonesia 164, 235 H 948 Ha Tien 896-7 Nusa Tenggara Laos 325, 373, 377 cycling 44-5, 941 (Indonesia) 226, 229, Myanmar (Burma) 535 Haiphong 836 Cambodia 73-4, 93, 106, 230, 232, 233, 235, Thailand 777 Halong Bay 12, 831-2, 13 133-4 240, 242-3, 248 trekking 137 Halong City 832 Indonesia 230 Philippines 571, 579, 586, Vietnam 904 Hanoi 816-31, 817, 818-19, Laos 342, 375 587, 591-2, 598, 49 events 27-30, see also 820-1, 822 Myanmar (Burma) 44 (Indonesia) individual countries accommodation 824-5 Thailand 681-2, 762 290 courses 823-4 (Indonesia) drinking & nightlife 273-4 F 827-8 D festivals & events 27-30, Thailand 743, 748, 757-8, entertainment 828 Dalat 878-82, 880 758-9, 761, 770, 772 see also individual food 825-7 Danang 859-62, 860 Timor-Leste 793, 798 countries information 828-30 Danau Bratan 219 Vietnam 865, 871 Filipino language 954 shopping 828 Danau Maninjau 261-2 Doi Inthanon National films 916, 922 sights 816-23 Danau Toba 262-5, 263 Park 698 14, 241-8 tours 823-4 dangers, see safety dolphin-watching 132, food 24, 662-3, 928, travel to/from 830-1 Dawei 502 369, 593 see also individual countries travel within 831 Death Railway Bridge 711 dôm yam 662, 662 Fort Rotterdam 281 Hat Khao Lak 757-8 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) Don Det 369-72 858-9 Don Khon 369-72 Hat Ya 753-4 Hatubuilico 802 Don Khong 367-9 G Donsol 568-9 gaang kĕe·o wăhn 662 health 946-52 Map Pages 000 drinking 26, see also gardens, see parks & books 952 Photo Pages 000 individual locations gardens insurance 946 965 vaccinations 946 drinks 307 J womens 952 electricity 308 Jaco Island 800-1 719-20 Khe Sanh Combat Base Hellfire Pass Memorial 714 embassies 308 154-66, 156, 159, 859 hepatitis 948-9 emergencies 152 160, 163 Khmer language 955-6 hiking, see trekking environment 304-5 accommodation 158-61 Kinabalu National Park hill stations 919 etiquette 164, 235 activities 154-8

440-1 INDEX Hinduism 927 exchange rates 152 drinking & nightlife 162-3 King Sidabutar Grave 262 history 918-21 festivals & events 175, emergencies 164 kitesurfing 48-9 books 921 184, 252, 308-9 entertainment 163-4 Philippines 574-5 hitching 945 films 302 festivals & events 158  H–K Thailand 762 HIV 949 food 305-7, 309 internet access 164  Vietnam 875, 25 Ho Chi Minh 819-20, 903 gay & lesbian travellers medical services 164 309 KL Bird Park 387 Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) shopping 164 highlights 153 KL Forest Eco Park 383 882-93, 883, 884, sights 154-8 history 300-3 Ko Chang 730-4, 755-6 886, 888, 889, 891 tourist information 164 internet access 309 Ko Lanta 772-4 accommodation 886-7 tours 158 itineraries 152, 241 Ko Pha-Ngan 743-8, 744, courses 886 travel to/from 165 language 152 746 entertainment 890-1 travel within 165-6 legal matters 309 Ko Phayam 756-7 food 887-9 Japanese B Encephalitis information 892 money 152, 309-10 950 Ko Phi-Phi 770-2, 770, 772 shopping 891-2 opening hours 310 Japanese Covered Bridge Ko Samet 728, 729 sights 882-6 politics 300 863 Ko Samui 738-43, 740 tours 886 population 303-4 153-91, 154-5 Ko Tao 748-52, 749, 750 travel to/from 892-3 religion 304 Jayapura 294-6 Ko Tarutao Marine National travel within 893 safety 310 Jerantut 428-9 Park 774 Hoa Lu 843 telephone services 310 203 Koh Dach 86 Hoan Kiem Lake 816 time 310 Bahru 416-17 Koh Kong City 113-15, 113 Hoi An 11, 863-8, 864, toilets 310 Juara 420 Koh Kong Conservation 11, 844 travel to/from 311 Corridor 115 Hon Lau 868 travel within 311-13 Koh Kong Island 114 horse riding 93 visas 152, 310 K Koh Paen 129 Kabayan 562 hot-air ballooning 333 volunteering 311 Koh Rong 122-4 Kalaw 506-8, 507 Hpa-An 501-2 Indonesian language 954-5 122-4 Kalimantan 274-9, 275 Hsipaw 520-1 influenza 949 Koh Russei 124 Kaliurang 180 Hua Hin 734-6 Inle Lake 16, 503-6, 16 Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) Kamphaeng Phet 684-5 127 Huay Xai 354-6 insurance 935, see also in- Kampong Ayer 59 14, Hue 849-58, 850-1, 854-5 dividual countries Kampot 124-6, 125 239-41, 14 Hu’u 238-9 health 946 internet access 935, Kampot pepper 126 Kompong Cham 129-30 see also individual Kampung Baru 388 Kompong Luong 87 I countries Kanchanaburi 711-14, 712 Kompong Pluk 98 Ifugao rice terraces 18, internet resources 21 Kangar 414 Kompong Thom 111-12 565-6, 18 Inwa 517-18 Kapit 461-2 Kong Lo Village 356-7 Plateau 189-91 Ipoh 403-4 Karasik 286 Kota Ambon 291-2 Imperial Citadel (Hue) 850- Isan 726 Kawah Ijen 190 Kota Bharu 426-8, 427 3, 850-1, 854-5 Islam 925-7 kayaking 46-7 432-40, 436 Imperial Citadel of Thang itineraries 31-9, 31, 32, 33, Cambodia 106-7, 130 kôw mòk 662 Long 823 34, 35, 36, 38-9 Laos 329, 343, 369- kôw soy 662 Indonesia 53, 151-313, 153 Brunei Darussalam 57 70, 375 Krabi Town 767-8 accommodation 307-8 Cambodia 69 Thailand 731, 761-2, 772 Kratie 130-2, activities 152 131 Indonesia 152, 241 Vietnam 834, 879 Krui 265 books 301 Laos 315 Kelabit Highlands 468-9 Kuala Besut 424 border crossings 250, Malaysia 381, 480 246 253, 272, 277, 297 383-94, Philippines 546 Kep 127-8 budget 152 384, 386-7, 390 Singapore 610 Kerobokan 197-9, 199- climate 151 accommodation 388-9 Thailand 644 200, 198 consulates 308 drinking & nightlife 391-2 Timor-Leste 790 Ke’te Kesu 286 culture 215, 303, 304 food 389-91 Vietnam 813 internet access 392 customs regulations 308 757 medical services 392 966 Kuala Lumpur continued border crossings 328, Londa 286 money 381, 475 money 392 346, 351, 352, 357, Lopburi 676-8 opening hours 475 shopping 392 358, 360, 364, 370 Lospalos 801 politics 469-70 sights 383-8 budget 315 Lovina 220-1 public holidays 475 tourist information 393 climate 314 Luang Namtha 350-3 religion 472 consulates 376 travel to/from 393 Luang Prabang 13, 333-41, telephone services 381 INDEX INDEX travel within 393-4 culture 373 334, 13 tourist information 476 custom regulations 376 Kuala 422-4, lunar calendar 27 travel to/from 476-7 422 disabilities, travellers travel within 477 with 378 K–M Kuantan 421, 421 visas 381, 476  drinks 374 M Kubah National Park 459 Mae Hong Son 708-10 women travellers 476 economy 372  Kuching 450-6, 452 Maluk 238 electricity 376 Mae Sa Valley 698 Kumai 277 Maluku 290-4, 291 embassies 376 Mae Sai 704 War Memorial Manado 289 emergencies 315 Mae Salong 704-5 441 Mandalay 509-17, , environment 374-5 Mae Sariang 710 510 Kupang 248-9, 249 512-13 etiquette 325, 373, 377 Mae Sot 715-17 195-201, 228-30, 196 Manila 547-62, 550-1, 554, festivals & events 337 Mai Chau 837 Kyaingtong 508-9 556, 558 food 374, 376 Makale 287 accommodation 553-5 gay & lesbian travellers Makassar (Ujung Padang) drinking & nightlife 377 281-3, 282 L 557-9 Labuanbajo 242-4 highlights 316-17 185-7 food 556-7 Labuhan 230 history 372-3 Malapascua Island 587 gay & lesbian travellers malaria 949 Laga 800 itineraries 315 560 954-5 lâhp 662 language 315 information 559-60 Malaysia 53, 380-478, , Lak Sao 356-7 legal matters 376-7 382 shopping 559 434-5 lakes money 315, 377 sights 547-52 accommodation 474 Boeng Yeak Lom 133 opening hours 377 tours 552-3 arts 472 Danau Maninjau 261-2 politics 372 travel to/from 560-1 Danau Toba 262-5 population 374 border crossings (to Brunei) 449, 465 travel within 560-1 Hoan Kiem Lake 816 postal services 377 border crossings (to Marante 287 Ho Tay 823 public holidays 377 Indonesia) 400, 417, Marble Mountains 862 Inle Lake 16, 16 religion 374 447, 455 markets 26 Kawah Ijen 190 safety 345, 377 border crossings (to Bangkok 650-1, 664, Tonlé Bati 86 telephone services 315 Singapore) 418 667-8 Lambir Hills National toilets 378 border crossings (to Chiang Mai 696 Park 464 tourist information 378 Thailand) 413, 415, Ende 245-6 Lan Ha Bay 833 travel to/from 378 429 floating 664 language courses 690, 824 travel within 378-9 budget 381 Hanoi 828 languages 23, 953-8 visas 315 climate 380 Ho Chi Minh City 891 Burmese 953-4 volunteering 378 consulates 474 Jakarta 158, 164 Filipino 954 women travellers 378 culture 471-2 Kota Bharu 426 Indonesian 954-5 work 378 customs regulations 474 Kota Kinabalu 432 Khmer 955-6 Larantuka 247-8 disabilities, travellers Kuala Lumpur 392 with 476 Lao 956 legal matters 935-6, Kuala Terengganu 422 drinks 381, 473 Malay 954-5 see also individual Luang Prabang 340 countries embassies 474 Tetun 956 Mae Sot 715 Legazpi 567-8 emergencies 381 Thai 957-8 Makale 287 Leihitu 292 environment 473-4 Vietnamese 958 Melaka 400 Lembar 224-5 festivals & events 474-8 Lao Cai 837 Nong Khai 725 Lemo 286 food 381, 472-3, 475 Lao language 956 Phnom Penh 82-3 leptospirosis 949 gay & lesbian travellers Laos 53, 314-79, 316-17 Soe 249 lesbian travellers, see gay 475 accommodation 375 Tomohon 290 & lesbian travellers, highlights 382 activities 315, 375-6 Yangon 491 individual countries history 470-1 books 376 173 Liquiçá 801 internet access 475 massage 51 literature, see books itineraries 381 Cambodia 74, 92-3, 107, Map Pages Lokomata 287 language 381 000 117, 124 Photo Pages Lombok 223-30, 224 legal matters 475 000 Laos 336, 342, 362 967 Thailand 689, 706 Munduk 219 Puri Lukisan culture 479, 535-9 Vietnam 865 museums & galleries 927 209 customs regulations 539 225 Adityawarman Museum Museum Sejarah Jakarta disabilities, travellers Maubara 801 255 155 with 542 Maubisse 802 442 Museum Wayang 155 drinks 538-9 Maumere 247 Agung Rai Museum of National Gallery Singa- economy 534-5

pore 611 INDEX Mawlamyine 499-500 Art 209 embassies 539 National Museum measles 949 Angkor National Mu- emergencies 480 seum 89 (Bangkok) 651 Medan 267-70, 268 environment 538 Asian Civilisations National Museum (Kuala etiquette 535  M–N medical services 947-8 Museum 611 Lumpur) 388 exchange rates 480 meditation 51, 321-2, 690 Baba & Nyonya Heritage National Museum  Mekong Delta 894-900, Museum 397 (Yangon) 483 festivals & events 540 895 Balai Seni Rupa 157 National Museum of food 479, 538, 540 Mekong Discovery Trail 130 Battambang Museum Cambodia 72 gay & lesbian travellers 540 Melaka 394-401, 396 106 National Museum of highlights 481 Mengwi 221 Cambodia Landmine Singapore 611 history 535 Mentawai Islands 258 Museum 92 National Museum of the Filipino People 552 internet access 540 Mentirotiku 287 Champasak Historical National Museum of itineraries 480 Mersing 417-18 Heritage Museum 362 Dien Bien Phu Museum Vietnamese History language 480 Mindanao 589-92 816 841 legal matters 540 Mindoro 569-72 National Visual Arts Ethnology Museum 450 money 480, 541 Mingun 518 Gallery 388 HCMC Museum 882 opening hours 541 Miri 464-6 Neka Art Museum 209 History Museum (Ho Chi politics 534-5, 916 Moalboal 586-7 Museum 407 Minh City) 883 public holidays 541 mobile phones 21 Peranakan Museum 611 Hotel Tugu Malang 186 religion 536-7 Mondulkiri Province 136-9 Pinang Peranakan House of Danar Hadi 183 safety 541-2 money 21, 23, 40-1, 936, Mansion 407 Islamic Arts Museum tourist information 542 see also individual 385-7 Resistance Museum 792 countries travel seasons 479 Istana Batu 426 Royal Abu Bakar Moni 246-7 Museum 416 travel to/from 543 Istana Jahar 426 Monywa 530 Royal Palace Museum travel within 543-4 Istana Mangkunegaran 333 visas 542-3 24 182-3 Museum 432 volunteering 543 Jame’Asr Hassanil Killing Fields of Choeung Bolkiah 59-60 Ek 72 Savannakhet Provincial women travellers 543 Museum 360 Masjid Amirul Mukminin Kompleks Muzium 281 Sono-Budoyo Museum Negeri Terengganu N Masjid Jamek 385 423-4 173 Nakhon Phanom 723-5 Masjid Kampung Kling Kraton Surakarta 182 TAEC 336 398 Tsunami Museum 272 Nakhon Ratchasima Luang Nam Tha Museum (Khorat) 717-19, 718 Masjid Negara 388 351 Tuol Sleng Museum of Mesjid Raya Baiturrah- Genocidal Crimes 72 Nam Ha National Maritime Museum & Protectetd Area 350 man 272 Naval Museum 397 Ullen Sentalu 180 Nanggala 287 Omar Ali Saifuddien Merapi Museum 180 UXO Laos Information national parks & reserves Mosque 59 Musée Des Dinosaures Centre 335 Ang Thong Marine motorcycle travel 45-6, 360-1 Vietnam Museum of National Park 737 878, 941-5 Museum Bahari 157 Ethnology 823 mountain biking 833, 871- War Remnants Museum Ba Be National Park Museum Bank 836-7 2, 877, 879 Indonesia 155 885 Bach Ma National Park mountaineering 440-1, 568 Museum Xieng Khuan 318 857 Mrauk U 532-4, 533 157 My Son 869 Bako National Park 457 Mt Kinabalu 440-1 Museum Huta Bolon Myanmar (Burma) 53, Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) Simanindo 263-4 479-544, 481 Bokor National Park 127 498-9 Museum Loka Budaya accommodation 539 Bukit Timah Nature Mt Matebian 800 294-6 arts 537-8 Reserve 624 Mt Mayon 568 Museum Nasional books 537 Cat Ba National Park 833 Mt Popa 528 (Jakarta) 157 border crossings 502, Cat Tien National Park Mt Ramelau 802 Museum Negeri Propinsi 509, 521 877 Muang Ngoi Neua 343-4 Bali 205 budget 480 Museum of North Cuc Phuong National Mui Ne 875-8, 876 climate 479 Sumatra 267 Park 843-6 Mukdahan 723 consulates 539 968 national parks & reserves Ulu Temburong National Palawan 17, 592-9, 17 disabilities, travellers continued Park 64-5 169-71, 170 with 605 Doi Inthanon National Pangkalan Bun 276-7 drinks 602-3 Park 698 133 Panglao Island 589 embassies 604 Erawan National Park 714 Way Kambas National Pantai Cenang 414 emergencies 546 Gunung Gading National Park 265 Pantai Lakey 238-9 environment 603-8

INDEX INDEX Park 459-60 Negros 578-80 Pantai Mahata 803 exchange rates 546 Gunung Leuser National Ngadisari 189 films 601 Park 270 Pantai Tengah 415-16 Nha Trang 869-75, 870 food 602-3, 604 Gunung Mulu National Pantemakassar 803

N–P Niah National Park 463-4  Park 466-8 Papua (Irian Jaya) 294- gay & lesbian travellers nightlife 26, see also 604 Kelimutu National Park 300, 295 individual locations  246 permits 296 highlights 548-9 Ninh Binh 842-3 Kep National Park 127 parks & gardens, see also history 600-1 None 250 Khao Sok National individual countries internet access 604 Nong Khai 725-7 Park 757 Gardens by the Bay 616 itineraries 546 Nong Khiaw 341-3 Khao Yai National Park Kebun Raya 166 language 546 205 719-20 KLCC Park 385 money 546, 604-5 Nusa Lembongan 207-8 Kinabalu National Park Perdana Botanical opening hours 605 440-1 Nusa Tenggara 223-53, Garden 387 politics 599-600 KL Forest Eco Park 383 222-3 Sacred Monkey Forest public holidays 605 Ko Tarutao Marine Nyaungshwe 503-6, 504 Sanctuary 209 travel seasons 545 National Park 774 Singapore Botanic travel to/from 606-7 Komodo National Park Gardens 621 O travel within 607-8 14, 239-40, 14 Tat Kuang Si 336 Oecussi 803 visas 605-6 Kubah National Park 459 Tropical Spice Garden opening hours, see volunteering 606 Lambir Hills National 412 individual countries Phimai 720 Park 464 Tun Abdul Razak Herit- Ork Phansaa 30 Phitsanulok 678-9 Nam Ha National age Park 385-8 Ossu 800 Protected Area 350 Pasola 252 Phnom Banan 111 Niah National Park 463-4 passports 21, 936 Phnom Kulen 105 Pangandaran National P pàt pàk bûng fai daang Phnom Penh 19, 72-86, 72, , Park 169 Padang 255-7, 256 662 76-7 78 Peam Krasaop Padang Padang 203-4 pàt tai 662 accommodation 74-5 Sanctuary 113 Padangbai 216-18 Pata 287 activities 72-4 Penang National Park 412 Paga 247 Pathein 494-5 drinking & nightlife 80-1 Phong Nha-Ke Bang , see temples, Peam Krasaop Mangrove emergencies 83 National Park 19, pagodas & stupas Sanctuary 113 entertainment 81-2 846-9, 19 Pai 706-8 Pemuteran 222 food 75-80 Phu Hin Bun National Pakse 362-6, Penang 404-13, 405 internet access 83 Protected Area 356 363 Penang National Park 412 medical services 83 Phu Quoc National shopping 82-3 Park 898 Grand Palace (Bangkok) Peninsula Malaysia 395 sights 72 Puerto Princesa Subter- 645, 650, 652-3, 652-3 East Coast 416-28 ranean River National Imperial Citadel (Hue) interior 428-32 tourist information 83 Park 594 850-3, 850-1, 854-5 West Coast 394-416 tours 74 Semenggoh Nature Imperial Citadel of Thang Peranakans 471 travel to/from 84-6 Reserve 458 Long 823 Petronas Towers 385 travel within 86 Marine Istana Mangkunegaran Pha That Luang 318 Phnom Sampeau 110 182-3 National Park 759 Phanom Rung Historical Phnom Tamao Wildlife Marine Istana Nurul Iman 60 Park 720-1 Sanctuary 87 National Park 758-9 King Palace (Dalat) 879 Philippines 54, 545-608, Phong Nha-Ke Bang Taman Nasional Bali Klunkkung Palace 216 548-9 National Park 19, Barat 222 Kraton 173 accommodation 604 846-9, 19 National Kraton Surakarta 182 activities 546 Phonsavan 344-7 Park 277-8 Mandalay Palace 511 arts 602 photography 936 Tunku Abdul Rahman Reunification Palace 885 beaches 545 Phu Hin Bun National National Park 433 Protected Area 356 Royal Palace (Phnom budget 546 Phu Quoc Island 897-900 Penh) 74, 19 climate 545, 604 Phu Quoc National Park 173 consulates 604 Map Pages 000 898 Taman 218 culture 545, 601-2 Photo Pages 000 Phuket 759-67, 760 969 Pindaya 506 Sape 239 disabilities, travellers Plain of Jars 347 299-300 18, 450-69, 18 with 640 planning, see also Ramayana 925 Savannakhet 360-2, 361 drinking & nightlife 632-5 individual countries Ranong 754-5 scams 937, see activities 42-51 Rantepao 283-6 also individual drinks 610 budgeting 21, 40-1 Rantung 238 countries embassies 639

calendar of events 27-30 Ratanakiri Province 132-6 Semarapura (Klungkung) emergencies 610, 636 INDEX first-time travellers 22-3 religion 924-7 216 entertainment 635 internet resources 21 animism 924 Semenggoh Nature environment 638 Reserve 458 itineraries 31-9, 31, 32, books 927 exchange rates 610  P–S 33, 34, 35, 36, 38-9 Buddhism 924-5 195-201, 198 festivals & events 627  ,Southeast Asia basics Christianity 927 Semporna 446-7 food 609, 610, 629-32 20-1 Hinduism 927 Semporna Archipelago 639 448-9 Southeast Asia’s coun- Islam 925-7 gay & lesbian travellers tries 52-4 Sen Monorom 136-9 639 reserves, see national travel seasons 20, 27-30 parks & reserves Senaru 228 highlights 612-13 plantations 401 responsible travel 44, 48, 225-7, 226 history 637-8 politics 916-17 930-3 Sentani 296-7 internet access 636 population 917 Rinca 239-41 Sentosa Island 626 itineraries 610 Port Barton 595-6 rock climbing 49-50 Sepilok 444-5 language 610 Poso 287 Cambodia 124 shopping 26, see also legal matters 639 postal services 936, Laos 329, 357-8, 375 individual locations medical services 637 see also individual Thailand 768-9, 770 Si Phan Don (Four money 610, 639 countries Vietnam 833-4, 879 Thousand Islands) 15, opening hours 639 Poto Tano 238 367-72, 368, 15 Roxas 572 public holidays 640 Prachuap Khiri Khan 736-7 Si Satchanalai 682 Royal Tombs (Hue) 856 safety 640 Praigoli 252 Siargao 590-2 Ruteng 244 shopping 635-6 Praiyawang 251 Sibu 460-1 sights 611-25 179-81 Sidemen Road 216 tourist information 637 Prasat Preah Vihear 112 S Siem Reap 87, 89-101, 88 tours 627 Sabah 18, 432-50 Pretty Kapas 420 accommodation 93-6 travel seasons 609 Sabang 571-2, 594-5 Probolinggo 189 activities 92-3 travel to/from 641-2 safety 936-7 Puerto Galera 569-72, 570 courses 93 travel within 642 boats 242, 312 Puerto Princesa 592-4 drinking & nightlife 98 visas 610, 641 Cambodia 146, 147-8 Pulau Ambon 291-2 entertainment 98-9 volunteering 641 drugs 147 Pulau Banda Besar 294 food 96-8 women travellers 641 Indonesia 310 Pulau Batu Daka 288 shopping 99 Sipadan 448 Laos 345, 377 Pulau Bunaken 290 sights 89-92 Sipalay 579-80 Myanmar 541-2 Pulau Derawan 279 tours 93 Siquijor 580 Singapore 640 Pulau Hatta 294 travel to/from 100-1 Sittwe 530-2 Thailand 785 Pulau Kadidiri 288 travel within 101 snorkelling, see diving & unexploded ordnance Pulau 449-50 Sihanoukville 116-22, 116, snorkelling 345 Pulau Langkawi 414-16 119, 120 Soe 249-50 Vietnam 909 Pulau 267 Similan Islands Marine Solo (Surakarta) 182-5, Sagada 564-5 Pulau Perhentian 424-6 National Park 759 183 Sagaing 518 Pulau Samosir 262-5 Singapore 17, 54, 609-42, sôm·đam 662, 662 Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh , , , Pulau Ternate 293 612-13 614-15 618 Sorong 299 City 620, 622, 626, 17 Pulau Tidore 293 spas 51, 209 sailing 834, 875 accommodation 627-9, Pulau Tioman 418-21, 419 Salang 419-20 639 394-5 Pulau Weh 273-6 Sam Neua 347-8 activities 625-6 Stone Chairs 263 Pyay 497-8 Sambor Prei Kuk 112-13 border crossings 640, Stung Treng 132 Pyin Oo Lwin 518-20 Same 802-3 641 stupas, see temples, pagodas & stupas 442-4 budget 610 Suai 803 Sangkhalok Kilns 682 climate 609 R Sukhothai 679-84, 680 Raba 239 Sangkhlaburi 714-15 consulates 639 Sulawesi 279-90, rabies 949 Santubong Peninsula 457-8 courses 626-7 280 Sumatra 253-74, rafting 46-7, 375, 706, 871-2 Sanur 207 culture 609, 638 254 Sumba 250-5 Railay 768-9 Sapa 838-41, 840 customs regulations 639 970 Sumbawa 237-9 Candi 185 Wat Pho 650 money 644, 784 Sumbawa Besar 238 Candi Sumberawan 188 Wat Phra Kaew 645-50, opening hours 785 Sungai Kinabatangan 445-6 Chaukhtatgyi Paya 483 652-3, 652-3 politics 775, 916 190 Cheng Hoon Teng Wat Phra Si Ratana public holidays 785 752-3 Temple 398 Mahathat 678 religion 779 surfing 48-9 Jade Emperor Wat Phra Singh 685 safety 785

INDEX INDEX Indonesia 169, 191, 195, 883 Wat Phra That Doi scams 645 Suthep 687 204, 229, 238-9, 258, Jin De Yuan 158 tourist information 786 Wat Phu Champasak 366 267, 306, 42 Kbal Spean 105 travel seasons 643

S–T Wat Ratburana 678  Malaysia 422 Temple 412-13 travel to/from 786 Wat Si Saket 318 Philippines 590 Koh Ker 105-6 travel within 786-8 Wat Thmei 92  Singapore 626 Kuan Yin Teng 407-8 visas 786 Wat Wisunarat 335 Thailand 762 Kyaikthanlan Paya 499 volunteering 786 Wat Xieng Mouane 336 Vietnam 875 Mahamuni Paya 510 working 786 Wat Xieng Thong 333-5 Surin 721-2 Mendut Temple & Tha Khaek 357-9 Monastery 182 Yadana Man Aung Paya Surin Islands Marine That Phanom 725 National Park 758-9 Ngahtatgyi Paya 483 503 theft, see safety Pha That Luang 318 Tentena 287 Tikala 287 Phnom Bakheng 104 terrorism 921 T time zones 21 Plaosan Temples 180 Tetun 956 Ta Prohm 104 Timor-Leste 16, 54, 789- Po Nagar Cham Towers Thai boxing 690 Tagbilaran 588 811, 791, 16 869 Thai language 957-8 Tam Coc 843 accommodation 808 Prambanan Temples Thailand 52, 643-788, Taman Nasional Bali Barat activities 790 179-80 646-7 222 arts 807 Prasat Preah Vihear 112 accommodation 782-3 429-32 border crossings 797 Preah Khan 104 arts 779-81 Tambolaka 252-3 budget 790 Preah Neak Poan 104 border crossings (to Tampangallo 287 Pura Lingsar 225 Cambodia) 731, 732 climate 789 Tana Toraja 283-7, 284 Pura Luhur Batukau 220 border crossings (to consulates 808-9 Tangkahan 271-2 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 204 Laos) 703, 724, 727 culture 789, 807 Tanjung Benoa 205 Pura Meru 225 border crossings (to customs regulations 808 Tanjung Puting National Malaysia) 754, 774 Pura Ulun Danau Bratan dangers 808 Park 277-8 219 border crossings (to embassies 808-9 Taungoo 497 Myanmar) 704, 715, Sam Poh Temple 401 emergencies 790 Tay Ninh 894 717, 756 Sambor Prei Kuk 112-13 environment 808 Temburong District 64-6 climate 643 Settayaw Paya 494-5 exchange rates 790 temples, pagodas & consulates 783-4 Shwe Oo Min Natural food 809 stupas 24 culture 643, 778-9 Cave Pagoda 506 gay & lesbian travellers Angkor, temples of 11, customs regulations 783 Shwedagon Paya 482-3 809 94-5, 101-6, 90-1, disabilities, travellers Shwemawdaw Paya 496 highlights 791 10-11, 94-5 with 786 Shwemokhtaw Paya 494 history 804-7 Arjuna Complex 172 drinks 781-2 Shwethalyaung Buddha internet access 809 Arulmigu Sri Raja embassies 783-4 496 itineraries 790 Kalliamman 416 emergencies 644 Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 385 language 790, 806 Bach Ma Temple 816 environment 782 Sri Mahamariamman legal matters 809 Bagan 12, 521-30, 522, ethnic groups 780 Temple 383 money 790 525, 12, 37 Sule Paya 483 etiquette 777 Bakong 104 opening hours 809 Ta Prohm 104 exchange rates 644 Banteay Srei 104-5 politics 804 Temple of Literature 819 festivals & events 784 Bayon 103 public holidays 809 Thien Mu Pagoda 853 food 643, 644, 781, 784, religion 807 Beng Mealea 105 , To Mieu Temple Complex 25 662-3 travel seasons 789 Borobudur Temple 181-2 gay & lesbian travellers 852 travel to/from 810 Botataung Paya 483 784 Wat Arun 650 travel within 810-11 Candi Jago 188 highlights 646-7 Wat Banan 111 visas 810 Candi Kidal 188 history 775-7 Wat Chedi Luang 685 volunteering 810 Candi Singosari 188 internet access 784 Wat Ek Phnom 111 women travellers 810 itineraries 644 Wat Kiri Sela 127 tipping 23 Wat Nokor Bachey 129 language 644 Map Pages 000 Tirta Gangga 218 Wat Phnom 72 legal matters 784 Photo Pages 000 Togean Islands 288 971 toilets 937-8, see also indi- medical services 326 Vinh Long 894 wildlife reserves & vidual countries shopping 325-8 Vinh Moc Tunnels 859 sanctuaries, see also Tomohon 290 sights 318 Viqueque 800 national parks & reserves, zoos Tonlé Bati 86 tourist information Virachey National Park 133 Tonlé Sap 144 326 Banteay Srei Butterfly visas 21, 938 Centre 92 tourist information 938, tours 322 Brunei Darussalam 57, 67 Bear & Wild Cat Rescue see also individual travel to/from 327 Cambodia 148 INDEX countries Station 877 travel within 327-8 Indonesia 152, 310 Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue tours, see individual Vietnam 54, 812-14, locations Laos 315 Station 894

T–W  814-15 Toya Bungkah 219 Malaysia 381, 476 Dao Tien Endangered accommodation 907 Primate Species train travel 945 Myanmar (Burma) 542-3  arts 904-5 Centre 877 Trat 728-30 Philippines 605-6 books 904 Elephant Valley Project travel to/from Southeast Singapore 641 border crossings (to 136 Asia 939 Thailand 786 Cambodia) 879, 893, Endangered Primate Timor-Leste 810 travel within Southeast 898 Rescue Center 843 Asia 940-5 Vietnam 910-11 border crossings (to Jurong Bird Park 624-5 trekking 24-5, 43-4, 45 China) 837, 839 Visayas, the 572-89, 573 Kota Kinabalu Wetland Cambodia 134, 137 border crossings (to volcanoes 45 Centre 432-3 Indonesia 180, 187, 190, Laos) 842, 848, 849 Gunung Batur 218-19 Matang Wildlife Centre 218-19, 220, 228, 266, budget 813 Gunung Merapi 180 459 270, 287, 298 children 908 Gunung Rinjani 227, 228 Orangutan Feeding Laos 337, 342, 344, 375 climate 812 Gunung Sibayak 266 Centre 270 Malaysia 419, 430, consulates 908 Mt Mayon 568 Philippine Tarsier 440-1, 467 disabilities, travellers Pulau Ternate 293 Sanctuary 588 Philippines 568 with 910 volunteering 933 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Thailand 689, 699-700, Sanctuary 87 drinks 813, 906 Cambodia 148-9 708 Phuket Gibbon Rehabili- economy 900-1 Indonesia 311 Vietnam 834, 877, 879 tation Project 761 embassies 908 Laos 378 Tunku Abdul Rahman Sepilok Orangutan Reha- National Park 433 emergencies 813 Myanmar (Burma) 543 bilitation Centre 444 Tutuala 800-1 environment 906-7 Philippines 606 Turtle Conservation typhoid 950 etiquette 904 Singapore 641 Center 843 exchange rates 813 Thailand 786 wildlife-watching 50-1, 931 films 901 Timor-Leste 810 Cambodia 132, 136, U food 812, 813, 905-6, Vietnam 911 138, 139 Ubon Ratchathani 722-3 908, 844 Indonesia 190, 240, 270, 208-16, 210, 212 gay & lesbian travellers 271, 276, 277-8 Udomxai 349-50 909 W Laos 355, 369, 375 Waikabubak 251-2 Ulu Temburong National highlights 814-15 Malaysia 419, 422, 431 Waingapu 251 Park 64-5 history 901-3 women travellers 938, Ulu Watu 204-5, 204 insurance 909 Wakai 288 see also individual unexploded ordnance internet access 909 Wamena 297-9 countries (UXO) 937 itineraries 813 Wat Phra Kaew 645-50, women’s health 952 652-3, language 813 652-3 Wonosobo 171-2 Water Festival 29 V legal matters 909 work 938, see waterfalls also individual Vang Vieng 328-33, 330 money 813, 909 Anisakan Falls 518 countries Venilale 800 opening hours 909 Bou Sraa Waterfall 136 World Heritage sites Vieng Xai 348-9 politics 900-1 Chaa Ong 133 Angkor, temples of 11, Vientiane 318-28, 318, public holidays 909 Ka Tieng 133 94-5, 101-6, 90-1, 320 religion 904 Kinchaan 133 10-11, 94-5 accommodation 322-3 safety 909 Monorom Falls 136 Ayuthaya 671-6, 672 activities 318-21 scams 824 Tatai Waterfall 115 Bagan 12, 521-30, 522, courses 321-2 tourist information 910 Way Kambas National 525, 12, 37 drinking & nightlife 325 travel to/from 911-12 Park 265 Borobudur 181-2 emergencies 326 travel within 912-14 weather 20, 27-30, 46, Cat Tien National Park entertainment 325 visas 910-11 49, see also individual 877 festivals & events 322 volunteering 911 regions Gunung Mulu National food 323-5 958 websites 21 Park 466-7 internet access 326 Vigan 567 West Timor 248-50 Halong Bay 12, 831-2, 13 972 World Heritage sites Luang Prabang 13, 333- accommodation Yogyakarta 173-9, 174, continued 41, 334, 13 483-6 177 Hoi An Old Town 863-904 Mt Kinabalu 440-1 drinking & nightlife My Son 869 488-91 Hue 849-58, 850-1, , Z Phong Nha-Ke Bang food 486-7 854-5 ziplining 50 Ifugao rice terraces 18, National Park 846-9 information 491-2 Cambodia 93, 122,

INDEX INDEX 565-6, Prasat Preah Vihear 112 18 shopping 491 137 Imperial Citadel of Thang Sukhothai Historical sights 482-3 Laos 50, 329, 332, Long 823 Park 680, 680 travel to/from 492-3 355, 50 Vigan 567 W–Z Kamphaeng Phet  travel within 493-4 Vietnam 846, 857 Historical Park 684 yoga 51 zoos Khao Yai National Park  Y Indonesia 201, 209, Night Safari 624 719-20 yam 662 232, 235 River Safari 624 Komodo National Park Yangon 482-94, , 482 484- Laos 321-2, 336 Singapore Zoo 623 14, 239-41, 14 5, 488-9, 490-1

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 973 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 974

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist /Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping /MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd David Eimer Myanmar David first travelled to Myanmar back in the days of the military junta. Since then he’s made repeated visits that have taken him throughout the country. When not travelling, David lives in Bangkok and works as a journalist for several newspapers and magazines. Originally from London, he was previously based in Beijing and LA. He has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet books.

Sarah Reid Timor-Leste Lonely Planet Destination Editor and travel writer Sarah Reid added Timor-Leste to her travel wish list after interviewing the cast of Balibo in her past life as an entertainment journalist in Sydney. Getting the chance to visit this poor but wonderful country for the first time six years later (on the 40th anniversary of the events that inspired the film) to research this guide was a great privilege. Originally hailing from Byron Bay, Australia, Sarah has lived on three continents, and visited more than 80 countries in between.

Simon Richmond Simon first travelled in the region back in the early 1990s. A lot has changed since, but Malaysia remains among Simon’s favourite des- tinations for its easily accessible mix of cultures, landscapes, adventures and, crucially, delicious food. An award-winning travel writer and photographer, Simon has helmed Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide for five editions. He’s also the author of Lonely Planet’s Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang guide as well as a shelf-load of other titles for this and other publishers. Read more about Simon’s travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond.

Iain Stewart Vietnam Iain has been visiting Vietnam since 1991 and has explored virtually every province in the country in search of the perfect bia hoi and ca phe sua. On this trip he travelled the coastal road between Vung Tau and Hoi An taking in some stunning coastal scenery and numerous memorable meals.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Indonesia Ryan first visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since he has criss- crossed the archipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills included the ancient villages of West Timor and finding his new favourite beach on Flores (it’s near Paga). Off-island, Ryan travels the world writing and calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.

Richard Waters Laos Richard’s first night in Laos was back in ’99 when he broke down in a speedboat on the Mekong and, while marooned on the riverbank, twilight sent a body floating past. Since then it got a lot better (that very night he eventually saw Luang Prabang for the first time). As a Lonely Planet author he’s also written about Malawi, Transylvania, Greece and Borneo; while as a journalist he regularly works for the Daily Telegraph, the Sunday Times and the Independent, and has won the odd international writing award. He lives with his wife and kids in the Cotswolds. He also writes a wellbeing blog called Soul Tonic.

China Williams Thailand China first travelled to Thailand in 1997 to teach English in the rural northeast. Since then she has filled two passport books and has inaugurated both of her children’s passports with Thai entry and exit stamps. Before children she wandered all over the US but is now firmly planted in the suburbs of Balti- more, MD, USA. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Nick Ray Coordinating author, Cambodia A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife, Kulikar, and children, Julian and Belle. He has written for numerous guide- books covering Southeast Asia, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam as well as Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of the Me- kong region as a location scout and manager for the world of television and film, including projects from Tomb Raider to Top Gear Vietnam. Motorbikes are a part-time passion (riding them a pas- sion, maintaining them part-time) and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.

Isabel Albiston Brunei, Malaysian Borneo Since her first trip to Malaysia six years ago, Isabel has grown to love clambering up slippery trails on sweaty jungle hikes. After three months exploring Borneo’s forests and longhouses, feasting on Sarawak laksa, downing shots of tuak, dancing at the Rainforest World Music Festival and dropping in on the sultan at his palace in Brunei, the temptation to stay nearly won out. Isabel is a journalist who has written for a number of newspapers and magazines including the UK’s Daily Telegraph.

Greg Bloom Philippines Greg has lived in Southeast Asia for more than a decade, dividing his time between Cambodia and his current home of Manila. This is his fifth straight stint on Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia. His latest assignment brought plenty of highs (ginebra-fueled begnas in Ifugao and Sagada) as well as the occasional low (losing a money-filled wallet mid-typhoon Ineng in Bontoc). When not writing about Southeast Asia, Greg might be found snouting around Russia or patrolling Asia’s ultimate frisbee fields.

Ria de Jong Singapore Ria started life in Asia, born in Sri Lanka to Dutch/Australian parents; she has always relished the hustle and excitement of this continent of contrasts. After growing up in Townsville, Australia, Ria moved to Sydney to work as a features writer before packing her bags for a five-year stint in the Philippines. Having moved to Singapore in 2015 with her husband and two small children, Ria is loving discovering every nook and cranny of this tiny city-country-nation. This is Ria’s first Lonely Planet title.

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