Goldsmiths' the Review

2018–2019 REVIEW THE GOLDSMITHS’ THE GOLDSMITHS’ REVIEW 2018–2019 THE COMPANY THE 2 The New Prime Warden GOLDSMITHS’ FEATURE STORIES REVIEW 4 The Royal Clock Salt 30 Philanthropy in the Company 6 From Design to Production 32 Nicholas Hilliard 10 Apprentice to Freeman 34 Supporting Maths in Gravesend 12 The Queen’s Diamond 36 The Prison Reform Trust Jubilee Project 38 Judaica 14 Goldsmiths’ Fair and Beyond 46 Safeguarding the Future of 2018–2019 17 Junko Mori: Sculpted Nature Metallurgy for Jewellery 24 Glass, Metal and Light 48 Newfoundland: Romilly Saumarez Smith 53 COMPANY NEWS 54 A Prime Warden’s Year 56 Looking Back at the Year 60 The Clerk’s Report 61 Assay Office 62 Charity 63 Education 64 Communications and Marketing 65 Craft and Industry 66 Membership 67 Military Affiliations 68 Curatorial Department 69 Library and Archives 7 1 Masterpieces 74 Obituaries 76 Membership Update 78 Committees List 79 Events and Principal Officers Editor Eleni Bide Front cover Copyright © 2019 Assistant Editor Sophia Tobin Vase, Abstract Design No 1, by The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths Editorial Assistant Deborah Roberts Phil Barnes, 2017, sterling silver With thanks to Karin Paynter and enamel. No part of this work may be reproduced, stored Collection: The Worshipful in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form Correspondence Company of Goldsmiths or by any means, including copying and recording, The Worshipful Company RICHARD VALENCIA without written permission from the copyright of Goldsmiths, Goldsmiths’ Hall, owner, application for which should be addressed Title page Foster Lane, London ec2v 6bn to The Goldsmiths’ Company. Opinions expressed Brooch by Wendy Ramshaw cbe, in The Goldsmiths’ Review are not necessarily 2010, 18ct yellow gold. Designed those of the Editor or The Goldsmiths’ Company. Collection: The Worshipful and produced by Whilst every effort has been made to verify Company of Goldsmiths Christiechristie statements of fact by contributors, no responsibility CLARISSA BRUCE is accepted for errors or omissions by them. and Disegno Works Prospective users of techniques, materials disegnoworks.com Back cover or equipment described should take specialist Conflicted Brooch by Elizabeth advice on official safety precautions and ISSN 0953-0355 Jane Campbell, 2018, silver, regulations which apply to them. Both may copper, vitreous enamel. vary from country to country. Collection: The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths RICHARD VALENCIA 2 3 THE GOLDSMITHS’ REVIEW THE NEW PRIME WARDEN will be gentler (although some things will opportunity to take stock of how far the undoubtedly be new) and it will be less of Company has come in a short time. “Returning to the an endless succession of revelations Superficially, we are much as we always (although a few revelations are doubtless were: the Hall is the same (although the chair again is an in store). Livery Hall is more magnificent than ever The biggest difference, however, will be after its two-year decorative restoration); extraordinary in how I approach the role myself. The the main round of events on the Company’s sense of honour and privilege will be as calendar remains the same; and most of opportunity to strong as ever (stronger, even). But I hope the faces we see around the Hall and at this will be tempered by an equally strong Goldsmiths’ Centre are unchanged (and in take stock of how sense of where and how a Prime Warden some cases unaltered too!). can best make a difference. In particular, I But scratch the surface and there have far the Company will enjoy giving my support, as my been some big changes. Since I last became immediate predecessors have done, to two Prime Warden, we have made some has come in a of the initiatives launched in my previous inspired new appointments to the staff term: the Goldsmiths’ Lecture (this year at Goldsmiths’ Hall: people who are short time.” delivered to a packed house by the former bringing new thinking to the Company Bishop of London, Lord Chartres) and the and providing the creative energy and IT IS A RARE HONOUR TO BE ELECTED Company’s History Group. Both of these intellectual drive to take all these for a second term as Prime Warden of the are in rude health and I hope they will programmes forward. Goldsmiths’ Company. It has come about, continue to contribute to the life of the The biggest changes of all, perhaps, of course, because, in the famous words of Company and to our reputation in the have been over in Clerkenwell and in our former US defence secretary Donald outside world in the years to come. relationship with the Goldsmiths’ Centre. Rumsfeld, “stuff happens”. This is not the I will also enjoy helping the Company Three years ago, the Centre was still first time “stuff” has happened and there make progress on some of the initiatives finding its feet and the rest of the world have been occasions in the past when two we are planning as we move towards our was still sizing it up. Now it has moved on Prime Wardens have served 18 months 700th anniversary in 2027. A number of decisively from being ‘the new kid on the each in order to reset the succession clock exciting schemes are at various stages of block’ of the silver and jewellery world to after an unexpected vacancy. But no past development and will take clearer shape being a major force within the industry, Prime Warden has reprised the role for a over the coming year. In terms of bricks scooping up a raft of industry awards each second full year since 1951, when Walter and mortar, we are starting to get into year for its achievements in training. Godfrey Allen served two consecutive years. detail with our £10 million Founding But we don’t want change for its own Long ago this used to be a regular Partnership with the Museum of London; sake. We want some things to remain just JULIA SKUPNY occurrence. The great benefactors who we are developing ideas for a new events the same as they always were: our made this Company what it is and provided and exhibition space, the Charter Hall, commitment to contribute to national life; us with the means to this day to support such which would open up and repurpose a our support for the trade and craft and for a rich and diverse range of charitable large redundant space beneath the Livery wider charitable and educational causes; programmes people such as Edmund Shaa, Hall; and we are talking to a central- our operation of the Assay Office; and the Martin Bowes and Hugh Myddelton – London borough about a possible joint friendship and sense of community that served multiple terms as Prime Warden. venture partnership in the future. Less the Company offers. But continuity ‘ONCE MORE They also effectively ruled the Company. tangible projects include our programme requires evolution: as Tancredi says in Now we do things differently. Prime of Cambridge PhDs for the study of Giuseppe di Lampedusa’s novel The Leopard, Wardens do not rule; they chair, and their precious metals, which is now getting under “For everything to stay the same, everything UNTO THE BREACH’: term in the chair is limited to one way, and the digitisation of our Collections must change.” ✦ year. Normally. and Archives. This is a huge task that will A Prime Warden’s year is full of take several years to complete but will have TIMOTHY SCHRODER A SECOND TERM AS surprises. That is what makes it such an the enormous benefit of making these extraordinary experience and such a resources universally accessible. constant learning process. But a second Returning to the chair again after a PRIME WARDEN term will be different. The learning curve three-year absence is an extraordinary 4 5 THE GOLDSMITHS’ REVIEW THE ROYAL CLOCK SALT The Royal Clock Salt by Pierre Mangot, Paris circa 1530, A Royal Treasure and Its Role silver-gilt and enamel, set with rock crystal, shell cameos, rubies and engraved gems; agate feet in the Renaissance Court: RICHARD VALENCIA THE EXTRAORDINARY MASTERPIECE KNOWN Waddesdon Manor, allowing exploration of this inspiring piece of as the Royal Clock Salt, one of the Company’s greatest treasures, Renaissance goldsmiths’ work and its role in Renaissance diplomacy was the focus of an international conference held at Goldsmiths’ and court life. At the conference, a team of international scholars Hall in November 2018. Made in Paris around 1530 by Pierre was invited to explore the Clock Salt from different angles, Mangot, the royal goldsmith to King Francis I of France, the Clock illuminating its status and significance for the first time. Their Salt is somewhere between a jewel, the latest fashion accessory findings were shared with 85 delegates, making for lively discussion. and a table ornament. We do not know how it made the journey Dr Michèle Bimbenet-Privat gave an introduction on the Clock from Paris to London – perhaps it was a diplomatic gift from Salt’s maker, Pierre Mangot, who supplied luxury goods Francis to King Henry VIII of England, or between two of their incorporating precious and exotic materials to the French court. courtiers – but it was the perfect present for Henry, who combined Although the Salt is unmarked, it can be firmly attributed to a passion for clocks with a real interest in the latest technology. Mangot by comparison with his marked pieces. Dr Dora Thornton The combination of inventiveness with luxury would have given spoke about another piece by Mangot, the Sibyls Casket in the an object like this a special appeal. Of the 11 clock salts listed in Waddesdon Bequest at the British Museum, which may also have Henry’s collection after his death, this is the only one to survive a French royal provenance.

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