DESTINATIONS endemics, anyone? MADAGASCAR’S BIRDS TEXT MARTIN BENADIE Rated as one of 12 mega-diversity hot- spot countries in the world, Madagas- car seems to belong to neither Africa nor Asia, but exudes an atmosphere distinctly its own. For the first-time birder to the island, it abounds with lifers. Mesites, ground-rollers, couas, vangas, Malagasy warblers and a host of other species are found nowhere else on the planet. lthough an island – albeit the fourth larg- est in the world, with an extent of about 587 000 square kilometres – Madagascar Ais sometimes referred to as the earth’s eighth con- tinent because its wildlife is so unique. Among the several reasons for its extraordinary assem- blages of flora and fauna is a long period of iso- lation; the island split away from Africa about 165 million years ago and reached its current po- sition some 80 million years ago. Another con- tributing factor is the combination of random colonisation from Africa and speciation from a small population of founders. As a result, more than 80 per cent of the wildlife is endemic, in- cluding mammals such as lemurs and a host of MARTIN BENADIE fascinating reptiles and amphibians. > MAY/JUNE 2018 MADAGASCAR 47 represented by the newtonias and Ward’s Vanga. Overall, they take on roles occupied elsewhere by woodpeckers, woodhoopoes, shrikes, tits, treecreepers and nuthatches. The mesites of the family Mesi- tornithidae are rail-like terrestrial birds with short, rounded wings and long, constantly flicking tails. They can fly, but rarely do so and are usually found in vocal pairs or small groups on the forest floor. Also terrestrial are the ground- rollers of the family Brachypteraci- idae, but they are harder to see as they are secretive and elusive. These bizarre and colourful birds with large heads and stout bills occur in rainforest and thorn scrub, where they dig tunnels in which to nest. The enigmatic Cuckoo Roller, in the family Leptosomidae, is a THE MOst CELEBRATED large bird with loud and evocative OF THE FAMILIES IS whistling calls. Its phylogenetic PROBABLY THE MONO- coMores relationships are still unclear. que PHYLETIC VANGIDAE, I Research undertaken on Mada- b WHICH REPRESENts gascan birds over the past decade am ONE OF THE MOST Masoala NP has led to a number of taxonomic oz DANIEL LÓPEZ VELASCO (2) SPECTACULAR EVOLU- M changes, the most significant of Mahajanga above White- When it comes to birds, what species and quirky endemics. The 22 are near-endemic. There are at which was the creation of a new TIONARY RADIATIONS breasted Mesites are Madagascar lacks in diversity (in country’s bird list runs to almost least 40 endemic genera – more monophyletic endemic family, ON EARTH Ankarafantsika NP ground dwellers and terms of numbers), it most cer- 300 species, more than 220 of than in any country in Africa – and the Bernieridae. It includes the rarely fly, choosing tainly makes up for in quality, with which breed there. Of these, 118 many of these contain a single spe- tetrakas and oxylabes, some of around the eyes. The two larger Andasibe- instead to freeze if a fascinating roll-call of unusual species are endemic and another cies. In short, Madagascar’s com- which were previously classified species are frugivorous, while the Mozambique Channel Mantadia NP predators threaten. plement of birds is very different as greenbuls and warblers. They two smaller ones feed on insects antananarivo from that of Africa – or anywhere are now considered a distinct and nectar, using their long, de- right Schlegel’s Asity else in the world. adaptive radiation of Malagasy curved bills to do so. Velvet Asities madAgAscAr has near-fluorescent What makes Madagascar so ex- warblers. Eleven species are cur- are polygynous, the males forming Ranomafana NP blue-green caruncles citing is the phenomenal rate of rently allocated to this family, leks and performing elaborate dis- around its eyes. endemism among the higher or- but more are likely to be added plays such as somersaulting around Isalo NP ders. The island boasts no fewer in future. Related to Old World a perch and hanging upside down. Zombitse NP previous spread than five endemic bird families warblers, Bernieridae species are The past decade has also seen the Ifaty Toliara During the day, pairs and one endemic subfamily, as small, insect-gleaning passerines description of a few species new to Anakao INDIAN OCEAN of the cryptic Collared well as many taxonomic oddities. that occupy various forest strata science, like the Tsingy Wood Rail. Tsimanampetsota NP Nightjar often roost The most celebrated of the and elevation ranges and have Other species unique to Mada- snugly in leaf litter. families is probably the mono- specific diets and morphology. gascar are jeries, emutails and phyletic Vangidae, which repre- They include such eccentric spe- couas. Jeries are small, promi- sents one of the most spectacular cies as Yellow-browed Oxylabes nent, insect-gleaning passerines evolutionary radiations on earth. and Long-billed Tetraka. that are often found in mixed- short wings, long tails and bright- top The Helmet Vangas, with their differing sizes, Now grouped in the endemic species parties, while emutails are ly coloured bare skin around the Vanga is best looked plumages and bill structures, oc- subfamily Philepittinae, asities are aberrant warblers and shy inhab- eyes, they have distinctive vocal for in Masoala. cupy various forest habitats. Most birds of both rainforest and dry itants of marsh and forest. The 11 repertoires. of the 22 species are arboreal, but forest. They all have characteristi- coua species, allies of the Asian Even Madagascar’s Greater one fills a terrestrial niche and cally rounded bodies and short malkohas, are both terrestrial and Vasa Parrots are unlike parrots five others are small flycatchers tails, as well as coloured bare skin arboreal. Distinguished by their found elsewhere, being drab > MARTIN BENADIE 48 AFRICAN BIRDLIFE MAY/JUNE 2018 MADAGASCAR 49 climates, with most rain falling in the east while the coastal plain in the west lies in the rain shadow. Rainforest is found chiefly in the north-east, deciduous forest in the north and west, and dry, dense, xerophytic forest in the south-west. The dry climate of the south and the south-western coast supports spiny forest and baobab trees, while in the central > region broad valleys, terraced rice fields, canyons, rivers and lakes make up the typical landscapes. The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar’s eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds overall and is divided into different types depending on altitude and rainfall. Lowland rainforest occurs below 800 me- DANIEL LÓPEZ VELASCO (2) tres and receives an average of above The Blue Coua black in colour and exhibiting of these habitats, so if you want to 3500 millimetres of rain per year. adds a startling highly promiscuous breeding target as many endemics as pos- The largest remaining tract of this MARTIN BENADIE splash of colour to the behaviour. sible you should allow a good three type, at 400 000 hectares, is on the eastern rainforests. weeks in the country. The majority Masoala Peninsula in the north- by crossing the Bay of Antongil by close to the capital, Antananarivo, t is clear that most of Mada- of the key sites have knowledgeable east. Fortunately some 230 000 boat from Maroansetra. Staying is the country’s premier rainforest below The remote, gascar’s endemic birds are to- local guides and accommodation hectares of it are protected in at Masoala Forest Lodge gives you destination. At Analamazaotra untouched Masoala tally dependent on forest of for varying budgets. Masoala National Park. access to the heart of the national the haunting ‘songs’ of indri le- Peninsula. Ione kind or another, be it rainfor- A mountain chain running Remote, untouched and with park, where you stand a chance of murs resonate through the forest, est, deciduous forest or dry, spiny north–south down the centre forest extending right down to the finding Helmet Vanga and other making birding there an unforget- forest. It takes time to reach any of the island creates different rocky shore, Masoala is reached stunners such as Bernier’s Van- table experience. Some of the spe- ga, Red-breasted Coua, Brown cials are Blue Coua, Velvet Asity, Mesite and Scaly Ground-roller. the elusive Collared Nightjar, Ty- Madagascar Pygmy-kingfishers las Vanga, White-throated Oxy- and Short-legged Ground-rollers labes, Madagascar Long-eared are regularly seen, while you only Owl and the bizarre Nuthatch have to stroll around the lodge Vanga. Mixed-species flocks typi- to find chameleons and tenrecs. cally include Common Newtonia, Night walks often produce mouse Red-tailed and Ward’s vangas, lemurs. Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Neli- Most of the rest of Madagascar’s courvi Weaver and Souimanga remaining rainforest lies between Sunbird. Madagascar Brush War- 800 and 1400 metres above sea blers and Madagascar Mannikins level. Once continuous, it is now flit about the forest fringe, while fragmented into patches on the in open areas fast-flying Mada- 15 000-hectare expanse of prima- above The Mada- eastern side of the island’s spine. gascar Spine-tailed Swifts feed ry forest. Here sought-after birds gascar Red Owl is the Of these, Andasibe-Mantadia and overhead. It takes a little longer to include Common Sunbird-Asity, island’s rarest owl Ranomafana are probably the key walk to the Torotorofotsy Marsh, Madagascar Flufftail and Scaly species. ones to visit. but this is an excellent locale for Ground-roller, but others likely to Andasibe-Mantadia Nation- Madagascar Snipe, Madagascar be seen are Dark Newtonia, Green top The Long-tailed al Park, comprising the Anal- Rail, Madagascar Swamp Warbler and Stripe-throated jeries, Mada- Ground-roller fre- amazaotra (or Périnet) Special and Grey Emutail.