Madagascar's BIRDS

Home , Bernieridae, Chabert vanga, Common newtonia, Helmet vanga, Newtonia (bird)

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endemics, anyone? MADAGASCAR’S BIRDS

Text martin benadie

Rated as one of 12 mega-diversity hot- spot countries in the world, Madagas- car seems to belong to neither Africa nor Asia, but exudes an atmosphere distinctly its own. For the first-time birder to the island, it abounds with lifers. Mesites, ground-rollers, couas, vangas, Malagasy warblers and a host of other species are found nowhere else on the planet.

lthough an island – albeit the fourth largest in the world, with an extent of about 587 000 square kilometres – Madagascar Ais sometimes referred to as the earth’s eighth con- tinent because its wildlife is so unique. Among the several reasons for its extraordinary assem- blages of flora and fauna is a long period of iso- lation; the island split away from Africa about 165 million years ago and reached its current po- sition some 80 million years ago. Another con- tributing factor is the combination of random colonisation from Africa and speciation from a small population of founders. As a result, more than 80 per cent of the wildlife is endemic, including mammals such as lemurs and a host of MARTIN BENADIE fascinating reptiles and amphibians. >

may/june 2018 madagascar 47 represented by the newtonias and Ward’s Vanga. Overall, they take on roles occupied elsewhere by woodpeckers, woodhoopoes, shrikes, tits, treecreepers and nuthatches. The mesites of the family Mesi- tornithidae are rail-like terrestrial birds with short, rounded wings and long, constantly flicking tails. They can fly, but rarely do so and are usually found in vocal pairs or small groups on the forest floor. Also terrestrial are the ground- rollers of the family Brachypteraci- idae, but they are harder to see as they are secretive and elusive. These bizarre and colourful birds with large heads and stout bills occur in rainforest and thorn scrub, where they dig tunnels in which to nest. The enigmatic Cuckoo Roller, in the family Leptosomidae, is a The most celebrated large bird with loud and evocative of the families is whistling calls. Its phylogenetic probably the mono- comores relationships are still unclear.

phyletic Vangidae, i que Research undertaken on Mada- which represents

gascan birds over the past decade b am one of the most Masoala NP has led to a number of taxonomic oz

Daniel López Velasco (2) spectacular evolu- m changes, the most significant of Mahajanga above White- When it comes to birds, what species and quirky endemics. The 22 are near-endemic. There are at which was the creation of a new tionary radiations breasted Mesites are Madagascar lacks in diversity (in country’s bird list runs to almost least 40 endemic genera – more monophyletic endemic family, on earth Ankarafantsika NP ground dwellers and terms of numbers), it most cer- 300 species, more than 220 of than in any country in Africa – and the Bernieridae. It includes the rarely fly, choosing tainly makes up for in quality, with which breed there. Of these, 118 many of these contain a single spe- tetrakas and oxylabes, some of around the eyes. The two larger Andasibe- instead to freeze if a fascinating roll-call of unusual species are endemic and another cies. In short, Madagascar’s com- which were previously classified species are frugivorous, while the Mozambique Channel Mantadia NP predators threaten. plement of birds is very different as greenbuls and warblers. They two smaller ones feed on insects antananarivo from that of Africa – or anywhere are now considered a distinct and nectar, using their long, de- right Schlegel’s Asity else in the world. adaptive radiation of Malagasy curved bills to do so. Velvet Asities madagascar has near-fluorescent What makes Madagascar so ex- warblers. Eleven species are cur- are polygynous, the males forming Ranomafana NP blue-green caruncles citing is the phenomenal rate of rently allocated to this family, leks and performing elaborate dis- around its eyes. endemism among the higher or- but more are likely to be added plays such as somersaulting around Isalo NP ders. The island boasts no fewer in future. Related to Old World a perch and hanging upside down. Zombitse NP previous spread than five endemic bird families warblers, Bernieridae species are The past decade has also seen the Ifaty Toliara During the day, pairs and one endemic subfamily, as small, insect-gleaning passerines description of a few species new to Anakao INDIAN OCEAN of the cryptic Collared well as many taxonomic oddities. that occupy various forest strata science, like the Tsingy Wood Rail. Tsimanampetsota NP Nightjar often roost The most celebrated of the and elevation ranges and have Other species unique to Mada- snugly in leaf litter. families is probably the mono- specific diets and morphology. gascar are jeries, emutails and phyletic Vangidae, which repre- They include such eccentric spe- couas. Jeries are small, promi- sents one of the most spectacular cies as Yellow-browed Oxylabes nent, insect-gleaning passerines evolutionary radiations on earth. and Long-billed Tetraka. that are often found in mixed- short wings, long tails and bright- top The Helmet Vangas, with their differing sizes, Now grouped in the endemic species parties, while emutails are ly coloured bare skin around the Vanga is best looked plumages and bill structures, oc- subfamily Philepittinae, asities are aberrant warblers and shy inhab- eyes, they have distinctive vocal for in Masoala. cupy various forest habitats. Most birds of both rainforest and dry itants of marsh and forest. The 11 repertoires. of the 22 species are arboreal, but forest. They all have characteristi- coua species, allies of the Asian Even Madagascar’s Greater one fills a terrestrial niche and cally rounded bodies and short malkohas, are both terrestrial and Vasa Parrots are unlike parrots five others are small flycatchers tails, as well as coloured bare skin arboreal. Distinguished by their found elsewhere, being drab > MARTIN BENADIE

48 african birdlife may/june 2018 madagascar 49 climates, with most rain falling in the east while the coastal plain in the west lies in the rain shadow. Rainforest is found chiefly in the north-east, deciduous forest in the north and west, and dry, dense, xerophytic forest in the south-west. The dry climate of the south and the south-western coast supports spiny forest and baobab trees, while in the central > region broad valleys, terraced rice fields, canyons, rivers and lakes make up the typical landscapes. The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar’s eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds overall and is divided into different types depending on altitude and rainfall. Lowland rainforest occurs below 800 me- Daniel López Velasco (2) tres and receives an average of above The Blue Coua black in colour and exhibiting of these habitats, so if you want to 3500 millimetres of rain per year. adds a startling highly promiscuous breeding target as many endemics as pos- The largest remaining tract of this MARTIN BENADIE splash of colour to the behaviour. sible you should allow a good three type, at 400 000 hectares, is on the eastern rainforests. weeks in the country. The majority Masoala Peninsula in the north- by crossing the Bay of Antongil by close to the capital, Antananarivo, t is clear that most of Mada- of the key sites have knowledgeable east. Fortunately some 230 000 boat from Maroansetra. Staying is the country’s premier rainforest below The remote, gascar’s endemic birds are to- local guides and accommodation hectares of it are protected in at Masoala Forest Lodge gives you destination. At Analamazaotra untouched Masoala tally dependent on forest of for varying budgets. Masoala National Park. access to the heart of the national the haunting ‘songs’ of indri le- Peninsula. Ione kind or another, be it rainfor- A mountain chain running Remote, untouched and with park, where you stand a chance of murs resonate through the forest, est, deciduous forest or dry, spiny north–south down the centre forest extending right down to the finding Helmet Vanga and other making birding there an unforget- forest. It takes time to reach any of the island creates different rocky shore, Masoala is reached stunners such as Bernier’s Van- table experience. Some of the spe- ga, Red-breasted Coua, Brown cials are Blue Coua, Velvet Asity, Mesite and Scaly Ground-roller. the elusive Collared Nightjar, Ty- Madagascar Pygmy-kingfishers las Vanga, White-throated Oxy- and Short-legged Ground-rollers labes, Madagascar Long-eared are regularly seen, while you only Owl and the bizarre Nuthatch have to stroll around the lodge Vanga. Mixed-species flocks typi- to find chameleons and tenrecs. cally include Common Newtonia, Night walks often produce mouse Red-tailed and Ward’s vangas, lemurs. Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Neli- Most of the rest of Madagascar’s courvi Weaver and Souimanga remaining rainforest lies between Sunbird. Madagascar Brush War- 800 and 1400 metres above sea blers and Madagascar Mannikins level. Once continuous, it is now flit about the forest fringe, while fragmented into patches on the in open areas fast-flying Mada- 15 000-hectare expanse of prima- above The Mada- eastern side of the island’s spine. gascar Spine-tailed Swifts feed ry forest. Here sought-after birds gascar Red Owl is the Of these, Andasibe-Mantadia and overhead. It takes a little longer to include Common Sunbird-Asity, island’s rarest owl Ranomafana are probably the key walk to the Torotorofotsy Marsh, Madagascar Flufftail and Scaly species. ones to visit. but this is an excellent locale for Ground-roller, but others likely to Andasibe-Mantadia Nation- Madagascar Snipe, Madagascar be seen are Dark Newtonia, Green top The Long-tailed al Park, comprising the Anal- Rail, Madagascar Swamp Warbler and Stripe-throated jeries, Mada- Ground-roller fre- amazaotra (or Périnet) Special and Grey Emutail. gascar Starling, Cryptic Tetraka, quents spiny bush Reserve and the much larger A short distance away and at Forest Fody, Rufous-headed and in the south-west of Mantadia National Park, lies in a slightly higher altitude, Man- Short-legged ground-rollers and Madagascar. mid-altitude forest and, being tadia National Park protects a the terrestrial Crossley’s Vanga. > MARTIN BENADIE

50 african birdlife may/june 2018 madagascar 51 Grey-crowned tetrakas, Yellow- browed Oxylabes, Brown Emu- tail, Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity, Pollen’s Vanga, Henst’s Goshawk and the undeniably gorgeous Pitta- like Ground-roller. The deciduous forests of western Madagascar are equally fascinating, although they too are now found only in patches, which are separated by sterile grassland. One of the larger tracts, at 65 520 hectares, is protected by Ankara- fantsika National Park, where a number of the rarer western endemics are frequently seen. Along any one of the trails that wind through the park’s dry forest White-breasted Mesite, Schlegel’s Asity and Van Dam’s Vanga (considered to be the island’s rarest and most threatened vanga) may be encountered, as well as the two coua species restricted to this forest type: Red-capped MARTIN BENADIE (3) and Coquerel’s. Lesser Vasa Par- above A Running A secluded highland pond of- plunging down the eastern escarp- rot, Rufous and Hook-billed Coua, which be- ten hosts Madagascar Grebe and ment. In addition to lemurs and vangas and Crested Drongo are Isalo National Park is unusual for Spectacular island haves much like the Meller’s Duck. endemic reptiles and frogs, the other notable species of this area Madagascar, comprising sand- endemics such as Roadrunner found in Close to the entrance to Rano- park hosts an exciting suite of east- and local guides can often find a stone outcrops and remnant can- Chabert’s Vanga, the south-western mafana National Park, it’s worth ern rainforest specials. The birds of Torotoroka Scops Owl at its day yon forest of fire-resistant tapia Red-capped couas United States, perches making a slight detour to see Anasibe-Mantadia occur here too, roost. Lac Ravelobe, a sacred lake trees and pandanus palms sur- in a tree in the early the impressive Namorono River as do Spectacled, Wedge-tailed and in the park, is home to a nesting rounded by grassland. The park and Archbold’s morning to warm up. pair of the Critically Endangered serves as a rough divide between Newtonia ensure Madagascar Fish Eagle, while eastern and western forest types that birding in this right The present-day White-throated Rails favour the and harbours Benson’s Rock bizarre flora is central plateau of waterside vegetation. An elevated Thrush and Madagascar Hoopoe, exciting Madagascar has lost hide is a superb late-afternoon which can be common, as well as much of its wetland vantage point over the lake. White-browed Owl and flocks of threatened species: Long-tailed habitat to rice paddies. The tidal Betsiboka Delta near Grey-headed Lovebirds. Mada- Ground-roller and Subdesert Mahajanga in the north-west pro- gascar Buttonquail, Madagascar Mesite. Spectacular island en- vides excellent habitat for wetland Cisticola and Madagascar Lark demics such as Chabert’s Vanga, birds, including the Endangered can all be found in the grassland. Banded Kestrel, Sakalava Weaver, Bernier’s Teal and Madagascar Sa- The south-west is the most arid Running and Red-capped couas cred Ibis. Further south, Zombitse part of the island and it is here that and Archbold’s Newtonia ensure Daniel López Velasco National Park protects a remnant deciduous thicket grows. This, that birding in this bizarre flora is Verreaux’s Coua and the recently above The stunning of deciduous forest that hosts the Madagascar’s most unusual veg- exciting, while the eerie, wailing discovered Red-shouldered Vanga. Pitta-like Ground- dainty Appert’s Tetraka. Listed as etation, forms a surreal landscape calls of Sickle-billed Vangas be- Nosy Ve, a sacred island lying four roller is best located in Vulnerable, this species has a range of spiny bush over which baobabs, tray the birds’ presence. Salt pans kilometres offshore of the fishing early summer. that is limited to only four forest pachypodiums and sentinel-like, in this area are good for the un- village of Anakao, has the south- sites. Giant Couas are often seen thorn-clad octopus trees tower. common Madagascar Plover. Un- ernmost breeding colony of Red- top The large Sickle- along Zombitse’s forest trails and Inland of the fishing village of fortunately there is little formal tailed Tropicbirds in the world billed Vanga feeds in Cuckoo Rollers announce their Ifaty, a narrow band of this spiny protection for this habitat. and also hosts Dimorphic Egrets, noisy flocks. presence with their raucous calls. thicket stretching 180 kilometres South of Toliara, the coral rag Humblot’s Herons and, seasonally, Covering 81 500 hectares of northward to the Mangoky River scrub is home to another two spe- Crab Plovers. Also accessible from the Isalo Massif, the landscape of comprises the global range of two cies with highly restricted ranges: Anakao – though seldom visited >

52 african birdlife may/june 2018 madagascar 53 in the mornings. Running Coua, Lefresnaye’s Vanga and Madagas- car Partridge are other good finds at Tsimanampetsota. Over the past decade, one million hectares of Madagas- car’s rainforest have been de- stroyed and the island’s unique dry forest has fared little bet- ter. Nevertheless, birds are still abundant, although more and more are becoming confined to national parks and reserves. And although the widespread deforestation in the country generates bad publicity, not all the news is bad: the Madagascar Pochard has been rediscovered after it was thought to have gone extinct, and the Madagascar Ser- pent Eagle, Madagascar Red Owl and Sakalava Rail have all been found in unexpected locations. If you would like to visit Mada- MARTIN BENADIE gascar, www.parcs-madagascar. above The Dimor- – is Tsimanampetsota, a national blue soda lake frequented by com is a useful source of infor- phic Egret occurs in park with extraordinary scen- Greater and Lesser flamingos. mation. Increased ecotourism white and grey colour ery: spectacular specimens of tall Mascarene Martins nest in the offers the local people the best morphs; the latter is pachypodiums, baobabs and gi- sacred Mitoho Cave and Mada- chance to lift themselves out of more common along ant fig trees, healthy tracts of spiny gascar Sandgrouse are easily seen extreme poverty and help to con- the coast. thicket and a 15-kilometre-long – and heard – as they fly overhead serve what is left of the forest. 

right The Endangered and highly localised Sakalava Rail favours wetlands such as Lac Kinkony.

Daniel López Velasco

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