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Home , Andohahela National Park, Berenty Reserve, Brown mesite, Coua, Helmet vanga, Isalo National Park

NATIONAL PARKS IN

Madagascar’s National Parks are divided into 4 parts: Deciduous Forest, Eastern Forests, Island and Coastal and Spiny Forests and in total have about 28 National Parks across the island worth visiting

DECIDUOUS FOREST

1. Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park Normally included as a short stop between Isalo and Tulear, the forest of Zombitse- Vohibasia is in a transition zone between dry deciduous and spiny forest . Birders will appreciate seeing Appert’s greenbul, found nowhere else, giant, Coquerel’s and olive-capped couas, as well as various .

2. Andringitra National Park A spectacular and biodiverse reserve with an altitude range of 500 to 2,658 metres and mountainous outcrops of ancient Precambrian , waterfalls, lakes and unusual vegetation. Pic Boby, Madagascar’s second highest , is a tough climb, but there are other less challenging trails through some magnificent scenery and habitats, including lowland forest, high humid tropical forest, sclerophyll and bamboo forest, bush and heathland. It has much endemic flora and over 100 species of , as well as over 50 mammal species including mountain-adapted ring tailed with thick coats.

The ranges from humid tropical in the lowland to below freezing at altitude – indeed, it is the only place in Madagascar where snow has been recorded.

3. Ankarafantsika National Park ( Ampijoroa) This prime example of tropical dry deciduous forest, combined with a lake harbouring Nile crocodiles and endangered Madagascar fish eagles, contains many other rare, endemic birds including Van Dam’s vanga, sickle-billed vanga and red-capped coua. are plentiful including iguanids, fish-scaled and spear-nosed snake. Seven species of inhabit the area, and Jersey Zoo’s exemplary Angonoka Project is located here, protecting the ploughshare tortoise, rarest in the world.

Boby, Madagascar’s second highest mountain, is a tough climb, but there are other less challenging trails through some magnificent scenery and habitats, including lowland forest, high humid tropical forest, sclerophyll and bamboo forest, bush and heathland. It has much endemic flora and over 100 species of birds, as well as over 50 mammal species including mountain-adapted ring tailed lemurs with thick coats.

The climate ranges from humid tropical in the lowland rainforests to below freezing at altitude – indeed, it is the only place in Madagascar where snow has been recorded.

4. Famed for its stunning sandstone runiforme scenery, strange , canyon-dwelling lemurs and pandanus palms, the Isalo massif rises from the flat Horombe plateau offering wonderful hiking through impressive gorges, canyons and forested areas of fire-resistant tapia on which the endemic Malagasy silk worm feeds (harvested for centuries to weave expensive burial shrouds). Natural oases and waterfalls are encountered for refreshing swims in stunning surroundings. Unique flora abounds, such as the ‘elephant’s foot’ or pachypodium and the locally endemic feather palm. Three species of diurnal lemur (including ring-tailed and Verreaux’s sifaka), Oustalet’s , spiny tailed Oplurus lizards and the multicoloured rainbow burrowing frog can all be seen here. Birds include Benson’s rock-thrush and Madagascar kestrel.

5. Kirindy National Park This dry deciduous forest reserve is claimed to have the greatest density of primates in the world, with eight species of lemur including the world’s smallest primate, the pygmy , and 23 species of other mammals including fosa, the lemurs’ main predator, often seen near the accommodation area – a rare experience. Madagascar’s largest , the giant jumping rat (vositse) is only found here, mainly in the wetter months. There are many endangered birds, plentiful reptiles and including the strange spear-nosed snake, and around 90 species of butterfly. En route to Kirindy is the iconic ‘Avenue des Baobabs’ featuring the giant baobab, and two more species of the ‘upside down tree’ can be found in the region. Nearby Bedo Lake holds 35 species of water including the endangered Madagascar teal, Madagascar plover, Madagascar heron, and migratory greater and lesser flamingos, as well as big-headed turtle.

6. Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park A World Heritage Site only accessible to the public since 1998, this tsingy offers an other-worldly experience. Visitors are surrounded by tall limestone pinnacles, some over 45m (150 feet) high, and can enter sunken dry deciduous forest harbouring unusual flora and fauna. Plants such as , pachypodium and delonix cling to the jagged rocks. Twelve species of lemur exist amidst the sunken forests, lakes and mangrove swamps. Excursions may involve walking, scrambling, climbing and caving over and under some wonderfully dramatic . Peaceful exploration of the nearby Manambolo River gorges is possible by pirogue. Sixteen species of bat live in the area, and bird life on the river is plentiful, including the Madagascar fish eagle. As well as being a place of strong fady (taboo), the locals believe the prehistoric inhabitants of Madagascar, known as Vazimba, inhabited the region. A tomb with apparent Vazimba skeletons can be seen high up the sides of the gorge.

EASTERN RAIN FORESTS

7. Rising to 1000 feet off the luxuriant Masoala peninsula, the island is home to the shy aye-aye – subject of one of the Durrell Wildlife’s captive breeding projects – four further lemur species, reptiles such as -tailed gecko and the rare tree boa, and two species of . Hikes can be taken around the island’s coastal trail and up to the lighthouse for wide views of the mainland. Going uphill can be challenging as the paths can be steep and slippery, but there are easy level walks to enjoy.

8. Andsaibe-Mantadia National Park A popular reserve reached by an easy drive from the capital, it consists of two protected tracts of adjacent montane : Analamazaotra (usually known as Périnet) and Mantadia (or Mantady). Perinet offers the best chance to view the largest lemur, the . Also, bamboo and brown lemurs, enigmatic such as the giraffe-necked weevil, giant and colourful birds such as and couas can be seen on guided walks through the jungle. Goodman’s mouse lemur, greater dwarf lemur and woolly lemur are some of the reserve’s nocturnal species. It is particularly rich in herpetofauna, with more than 100 species of frog, leaf-tailed and various . Nearby Mantadia boasts the agile diademed sifaka with its luxuriant orange, black and white fur, and the rare black-and white , shy and fast moving. Rare birds include , ground rollers, greenbuls, asitys and more. The trails are steeper and more slippery in wet weather than at Perinet. Other nearby reserves provide further opportunities for wildlife viewing.

9. Anjozorobe Located approximately 90 minutes’ drive to the north of Tana, Anjozorobe is perhaps the last remaining viable hauts plateaux forest in Madagascar, and one of the richest for . Ten species of lemur, including indri and diademed sifaka, inhabit the high altitude (over 1500m) and montane (800m – 1500m) forests, which are drier and more open than Perinet. It is an excellent birding location, with species such as the endemic brown , several couas and asitys present. Sixty-five per cent of the flora is endemic.

10.Farakaraina Forestry National Park Reached by boat via a branch of the Antainambalana River and a moderate trek from the town of Maroantsetra, this is a relatively unexplored area gaining a reputation for sightings of the strange nocturnal lemur, the aye-aye: also seen are white fronted brown lemurs, leaf-tailed geckos, chameleons and many bird species.

11. From the spice town of , penetrate inland to the pristine primary rainforests and highlands of Marojejy National Park – one of the most challenging wildlife locations on the island. Having been a Strict Reserve until the end of 1998, it had only been explored by scientific researchers. Clients of ours were the first lay visitors to enter Marojejy and it surpassed their highest expectations. They found the rare , four other lemur species and the rare , only seen in undisturbed upland rainforest and a delight for birders. It is perhaps the ultimate Madagascar reserve in view of its unspoilt status and range of altitudes. The three days’ ascension is strenuous, the camping simple and the trail rough and narrow, but certainly well worth it for the right people.

12.Masoala Forest National Park The Masoala peninsula protects the last remaining extensive coastal lowland rainforest in Madagascar. Given World Heritage Site status in June 2007 and accessible only by boat, the reserve boasts staggering biodiversity and a wide variety of habitats: rainforest, littoral forest, marsh, flooded forest, mangrove and coral reefs are all represented. Rainforest wildlife here can be more difficult to spot than in some other locations, and guided walks can be challenging due to steep and slippery trails (it’s the wettest place in Madagascar) but you may spot the red ruffed lemur (locally endemic), white-fronted brown lemur, greater hedgehog tenrec, brown-tailed mongoose, day geckos, leaf tailed geckos, panther chameleons, helmet vanga and the recently rediscovered Madagascar serpent eagle. There are three marine reserves providing excellent snorkelling and kayaking. Humpback whales visit the Bay of Antongil between July and early September to breed and give birth and can be seen from shore or by boat. Two further areas in the Masoala area, Farakaraina and Nosy Mangabe, are described below.

13.Montagne d`Ambre National Park Easily accessible from Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), this area of montane rainforest situated on a volcanic massif lies between altitudes of 850m and 1475m and is characterised by towering trees, waterfalls, crater lakes, and orchids. Sanford’s brown lemur, crowned lemur, northern ring-tailed mongoose, and with luck, the elusive fanalouc may be encountered. Various chameleons include the tiny minima – smallest in the world, and the beautifully multicoloured . Birds include the Amber Mountain rock thrush, Madagascar crested ibis, pitta-like ground roller, souimanga sunbird and Madagascar blue pigeon.

14. The discovery of the endangered golden bamboo lemur in 1986 and rediscovery of the greater bamboo lemur soon after led to National Park status in 1991. The montane rainforest hills beside the rushing Namorona River harbour 12 species of lemur and around 120 bird species. It is also renowned for its many orchids, bright day geckos, and huge Madagascar comet – one of the largest in the world. Night walks are good for various lemurs and other species including fanaloka (Malagasy striped civet), various chameleons, frogs and the truly fantastic phantasticus leaf tailed gecko.

ISLAND & COASTAL 15.Ambola Remote and little visited, this is about as isolated as you can get. A beautiful deserted beach and small fringing reef, with nothing but passing fishing pirogues to break the isolation, this is the place for those who want to get completely off the beaten track and a good base from which to visit Tsimanampetsotsa National Park.

16.Anakao Around 35km south of Tulear in the remote southwest of Madagascar, Anakao is a traditional Vezo fishing village on a stunning white sand beach lined with colourful pirogues. On walks from Anakao you may stumble across Sakalava tombs and perhaps the eggshell remains of the enormous, now-extinct, Aepyornis (Elephant Bird). Humpback whales may be sighted between June and September breaching out to sea. Adventurous visitors may wish to visit the bizarre spiny forest and soda lake at Tsimanampetsotsa National Park on a day excursion from Anakao.

17.Anjajavy An exceptional location for wildlife viewing and coastal relaxation, the Anjajavy peninsula in the north-west of Madagascar has 1000 acres of tropical dry deciduous forest in which at least two species of baobab can be found as well as Coquerel’s sifaka, common brown lemur, Milne Edwards sportive lemur, pale fork-marked lemur, , chameleons and fosa. Tsingy caves harbour various bat species, and the abundant bird life includes Madagascar harrier hawk, white headed vanga, crested drongo and breeding pairs of the critically endangered Madagascar fish eagle.

18.Antsianitia A small fishing village set by a river mouth a few miles north of Majunga, with long sweeping sandbars and beaches, wooded banks and one hotel. Access is by four wheel drive along a rough sand track.

19.Ile Sainte Marie Sixty kilometres long and only seven wide, this pretty island off the east coast of Madagascar is best known for humpback whale-watching between July and September. The whales come to the sheltered waters between the island and the mainland to engage in courtship and give birth to their young. Ste Marie is also noted for its diversity of orchid species, including the stunning Queen of Madagascar orchid endemic to little Ile Aux Nattes just off its southern tip. Steeped in history, the island is a former hideout for pirates in the 17th century. Remains of pirate ships lie offshore providing rewarding sites for scuba diving, and it is possible to visit the pirates’ cemetery where the dreaded skull and crossbones is in evidence on tombstones.

20.Mitsio Archpelago Uninhabited except by a few small fishing hamlets and one tourist resort, Mitsio is a collection of small islands 40 nautical miles north east of Nosy Be affording excellent diving and snorkelling on vibrant fringing coral reefs. Each island has a unique character. La Grande Mitsio is known for its huge basalt columns (the Organ Pipes). A climb up the highest hill on Nosy Ankarea (219m), passing many interesting succulents en route, reveals spectacular views over the entire archipelago. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to visit Les Quatre Frères (the Four Brothers), islands of silver basalt containing huge caves with impressive overhangs and nesting seabirds such as northern gannets, white-tailed tropicbirds, and frigatebirds.

21.Nosy Iranja Idyllic twin islands south west of Nosy Be, Nosy Iranja Be (big) and Nosy Iranja Kely (small) are connected by a sand bar only visible at low tide, offering an exclusive getaway for those who wish to spoil themselves with a little touch of paradise. Nature walks can reveal various bird and species, huge coconut crabs and nesting marine turtles. Snorkelling and diving on nearby coral reefs is on offer. Other activities include water-skiing, kayaking, fishing, sailing and exploration of nearby islands and bays.

22.Nosy Ve This uninhabited coral island three kilometres off Anakao has deserted white sand beaches and low greenery with little shade. Local fady (taboo) has left it unspoilt and provided a safe nesting ground for red-tailed tropicbirds which allow close approach. Snorkelling is available on the fringing reef but better at Nosy Satrana, also possible to visit on a day excursion from Anakao.

SPINY FORESTS 23.Ifaty North of Tulear on an beach, Ifaty enables visits to both spiny forest and offshore reefs. The spiny forest is a bizarre tangled mix of -resistant plants with extravagant to their environment such as baobabs and didierae (known as octopus trees). This is a good location for locally endemic birds including long-tailed ground roller and sub desert mesite. Reptiles include three-eyed lizards, spiny tailed iguanas and day geckos.

24. Lying between Fort Dauphin and Berenty, it protects a surprising range of habitats for its 760 sq kms. Rainfall patterns over the Anosy mountain range have led to eastern rainforest at one extreme, and lower rainfall in another section has given rise to dry spiny forest at the other. The area in between is the unique transitional Ranopiso forest, characterised by the locally endemic triangular palm. A wide variety of species including rare birds such as red-tailed and , fifteen species of lemur, fosa, fanalouc and striped civet all live in the reserve, where camping is currently the only accommodation.

25. A private reserve amidst sisal plantations, with habituated ring-tailed lemurs, ‘dancing’ Verreaux’s sifakas and beguiling brown lemurs seen from wide, easy trails in gallery (riverine) forest near the reserve lodge. Sightings are guaranteed, giving ample scope for good photographs. Fruit bats nest in the area and bird life is exceptional with over 100 recorded species. A night walk in the eerie spiny forest should reveal mouse lemur, sportive lemur, chameleons and owls.

26.Ifotaka This area of dry spiny forest with ninety-five per cent endemicity is home to the proud Antandroy with fiercely held traditions and a fascinating culture. Guests gain an insight into the delicate balance between human and environmental requirements for sustainability. The forest is sacred to the tribe who protect areas where their ancestors are buried, allowing lemur species to thrive along with many birds. By visiting, one assists community development and relieves some pressure on the environment by staying in tents.

27.Kaleta/Amboasary-Sud Another area to see the remarkable spiny forest and the many lemurs which inhabit it. The area also offers great birding, as well as interesting reptiles and .

28.Tsimanampetsotsa National Park A RAMSAR site, it is the newest National Park in Madagascar and one of its most unusual reserves. It comprises a milky blue 15-km long saline lake populated by pink and dwarf flamingos and other wading birds, with an adjacent limestone escarpment covered in rare pachypodium-dominated spiny forest displaying extreme to the arid environment. Oddities include 2000 year-old, squat baobabs and a ficus tree grove with extending into a sinkhole river system, used by ring tailed lemurs to access a drink. With 90 per cent of all resident species endemic to the park, it has the highest endemicity of any reserve on the island. One species of fish is found here in the cave river system which runs under the desert and spiny bush. It is a small, pink- white blind cave fish which feeds on plankton, crustaceans, and insects. There are rare avian endemics, three species of lemur including the ring-tailed (much wilder than those at Berenty), the rare radiated tortoise and the recently discovered, locally endemic Grandidier’s mongoose, first described in 1986. An expedition to Tsimanampetsotsa can involve hot and bumpy travel and a bone-shaking ride by zebu cart. However, it is a rewarding and unforgettable experience, easily combined with a comfortable beach hotel at Ambola or Anakao.