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NewWelcome to South Byron Bay, p42

Barwon River Clarence

River Wales Yamba, p40 Bondi, Byron Bay and countless beaches in between Coffs Harbour, p41

Macleay River North Coast t’s a rare visitor who comes to and I doesn’t spend time in . NEW SOUTH WALES Home to the lifestyle city of , where beach culture, superb weather and the undeniably spectacular harbour backdrop have all secured the city’s international Macquarie River Lord Howe reputation, the state is blessed with a climate that Port Stephens, p41 Island Located two hours by makes it ripe for exploring all year round. Hunter River flight from Sydney Yet Sydney is just the beginning of what New South Wales has to offer. To the west, just two hours’ drive Central Coast away, lies the World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains, perfect for exploring on a day trip, over a relaxing SYDNEY, p34 weekend – or longer. Head north and you’ll find

spectacular secluded beaches, dozens of national parks Bowral, p48 and the most-loved beach town in Australia: world- Yass, p55 South Coast famous Byron Bay. Go south (perhaps even in a Porsche Murrumbidgee ShoalhavenRiver River or Ferrari) for a jaw-dropping coastal jaunt along Grand Gundagai, p48 Jervis Bay (Hyams Beach), p46 Tumut, p55 CANBERRA, p50 Pacific Drive, before enjoying the unspoilt beaches and

small towns of the South Coast (p46). Holbrook, p48

Lake But while there’s plenty to do on the NSW mainland, Eucumbene Murray Narooma, p56 Montague including visits to six World Heritage-listed sites, one in Albury, p48 River Khancoban, p55 Cooma, p54 Island particular is on the bucket list of many Australians: Lord Jindabyne, p54 Thredbo, p54 Howe Island (p44). It may be pint-sized, but it never fails Bega, p56

to leave visitors plotting a return trip. Don’t say we didn’t Snowy Pambula, p46 River Eden, p47 warn you. visitnsw.com Sapphire Coast VICTORIA

GETTING THERE EATING THERE STAYING THERE WHEN TO GO

n Most visitors land in Sydney, n From fine dining opposite the n From luxury retreats on the n Honestly? Any time of year is then use the city as a blissful Opera House at restaurants such as Central Coast (p40), through great for visiting New South Wales jumping off point for road trips Quay (p35), to arriving by to historic lighthouse keepers’ – it all depends on what you love to up or down the coast. If you’d for a luxury lunch on Palm Beach cottages at Byron Bay (p41) or do. July to September offers sunny prefer to simply sit back and (p34), Sydney’s dining options are glamping on the serene South but crisp days, with cool nights, enjoy the views, trains also internationally renowned. But the Coast (p46), New South Wales and is best for whale watching. If run partway along the coastline rest of the state has plenty on offer. has accommodation options you’re planning a beach holiday, north and south from Sydney, Be sure to sample the local seafood to suit every visitor. Don’t miss December to February just can’t be and to many of the state’s up and down the coast as it’s usually Capella Lodge on Lord beaten. Temperatures are moderate

MAP BY LUKE TEMBY regional attractions. fresh off the boat that very morning. Howe Island (p45). year round.

australia.com 33 SYDNEY AND SURROUNDS NSW Soar in for a seaside lunch Everyone enjoys a stylish arrival but But which restaurant to choose? Should popular restaurant The Boathouse Palm in Sydney, you can take that concept it be the multi-award-winning Sydney Beach (don’t forget the champagne). Or EATING OUT to extraordinary new heights by flying institution Cottage Point Inn, where you’ll maybe you’ll fly to Jonah’s at Whale Beach, to lunch via seaplane, darling. Strap relax over a three-course meal on the edge home not only to an acclaimed restaurant in to your seat at Rose Bay – a pretty of the Hawkesbury River with kookaburras but to Sydney’s only Relais & Châteaux harbourside suburb close to iconic and the afternoon sun for company? Or hotel. Dine here on some of Australia’s best Bondi Beach – and you’ll be flown past perhaps the recently reopened Berowra modern cuisine, and upon finding yourself the Harbour Bridge, Opera House and Waters Inn, where you’ll dine on an feeling a little weary post-meal, you can some of Sydney’s most spectacular city innovative degustation menu, to views retire to your luxuriously appointed suite beaches, before touching down outside of the glittering waters in front of you, nearby and drift off to sleep to the gentle 3 one of Sydney’s best waterfront dining surrounded by gum trees? You might sound of waves crashing against the nearby of the best experiences – of which there are many. prefer a more relaxed meal at stunningly shore. Decisions, decisions…

TRY THESE: Sydney , seaplanes.com.au • Sydney by Seaplane, sydneybyseaplane.com • Seawing Airways, seawing-airways.com.au FIRST-CLASS DINING BY THE SHORE

Of course, you don’t need to travel by plane to dine in style by the water – Sydney’s harbour shores are dotted with incredible places to eat. We love:

Quay l World-renowned chef Peter Gilmore’s food is just one reason Quay is a mainstay on the prestigious S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. quay.com.au Bennelong l The sublime menu here – showcasing Australia’s best produce – is matched by its stellar setting (with billion-dollar views of the bridge for company). bennelong.com.au ARIA l The upmarket offerings at celebrity chef Matt Moran’s award-winning restaurant at Circular Quay come with glittering harbour views. ariarestaurant.com NSW xxxxx MAIN IMAGE BY DESTINATION xxxxx INSET BY BRETT STEVENS, DISCOVER NSW

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Hit the beach SWIMMING like a local There are almost 100 beaches in Sydney – choosing just one can be difficult. Bondi is a must-see, but you can make like a local and follow the walking track (commonly referred to as ‘the 3 Bondi to Bronte’, see p38) south of the best to the handful of other gorgeous beaches within strolling distance SYDNEY’S BEST – Tamarama, Bronte, Clovelly HARBOUR BEACHES and Coogee among them. Same goes for internationally-renowned Close enough to the city to see Manly Beach – a short walk around the skyscrapers, but far enough the cove you’ll find prized Shelly away to provide a seductive sense Beach, which locals have rated the of seclusion, these sun-drenched swimming spots are kept secret for best in the state (and that’s saying a reason! something). Further north of Manly there’s an entire peninsula l Camp Cove is a particularly lovely patch of sand in Sydney’s of stunning sands, ending with eastern suburbs, popular with chic Palm Beach. But if you’re families, bathers and picnickers not interested in venturing from passing by on boats. (Check out the city we’ve got good news: the that picture!) harbour is dotted with swimming l Nielsen Park is a quiet spot in spots, too. We’ve listed our the manicured suburb of Vaucluse. favourites just to the right… It has an adjacent restaurant, café and park and a particularly family- friendly beach, with crystal clear water and a netted pool.

l Balmoral This beautiful spot is hidden at the bottom of well- to-do suburb Mosman. Stroll the promenade, swim in the netted A bird’s-eye view of gorgeous pool or pull up a chair at one of the Camp Cove, with Watsons pretty cafés and admire the view. Bay in the background nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

TWO OF OUR FAVOURITE Submerge yourself in Sydney (life)style SYDNEY SAILS

Sydney’s harbour is the centre of the city, around which residents enjoy countless activities – snorkelling, Sail the world’s most l The Sydney Harbour Stand-Up Paddle boarding, diving, and sailing among them. You can take a long, lazy cruise famous city harbour Discovery cruise takes in all the famous views, around her beaches, enjoy sunset cocktails on board an afternoon cruise or simply settle in to watch the It’s one thing to see the Harbour Bridge from land, but quite plus gives you the chance ferries go by from one of the many public gardens. Here are a few of our favourite activities: another to sail underneath it with your favourite icy cold to jump in for a swim, with lunch afterwards. drink in hand. Cruising Sydney Harbour is a much-loved ozwhalewatching.com.au local pastime and you’ll understand why once you’re on l Eastsail Royal National Park features Soak up three deck, as the afternoon sun warms your face and the salty offers customisable experiences, wildly diverse terrain, from open breeze kisses your skin. All aboard. grasslands to dramatic cliff tops incredible parks from sunset cocktails in the harbour to dinner and an Sydney Harbour itself is ringed by a overnight stay on-board. national park (called Sydney Harbour eastsail.com.au National Park, incidentally), but you’ll find other unique national parks close to the city in almost every direction. To the west, Blue Mountains National Park is part of one million hectares of bushland, escarpments and waterholes, protected by a UNESCO World-Heritage listing, while one hour north you’ll find the sandstone cliffs, eucalypts and waterways of Ku-

ring-gai Chase National Park (take the 45-minute Aboriginal Heritage Track to see some amazing Aboriginal Rock Art for free). The world’s second-oldest national park, Royal National Park (left), is an hour south of the CBD and, like its counterparts, offers opportunities for barbecues, , bushwalking and birdwatching – as well as some whale watching, if you’re lucky.

nationalparks.nsw.gov.au PARKS; SYDNEY NATIONAL LEFT: NSW LUND, DESTINATION ABOVE: HAMILTON NSW DESTINATION HUGH STEWART,

36 australia.com SYDNEY AND SURROUNDS NSW A multitude of public harbourside trails makes Sydney a haven for anyone who likes walking... or good views! Discover Sydney’s pretty shoreline Sydney is home to dozens of walking trails around its coastline; many of which are world class. Here are four of our favourites:

Botanic Gardens to Mrs Macquarie’s Chair l Leaving from the Sydney Opera House, a short stroll along the foreshore into the Royal Botanic Gardens will land visitors at Mrs Macquarie’s Chair. This historic seat, created from a sandstone rock ledge for Governor Lachlan Macquarie’s wife in 1810, boasts one of the city’s best harbour views (and makes for an amazing spot for a photo).

Manly to Spit Bridge l Take the iconic ferry ride from buzzing Circular Quay in Sydney’s heart to beachside Manly, where you can hike this iconic 10km trail through pretty heathland past well-preserved Aboriginal rock art (signposted) and countless hidden DID YOU beaches (definitely not signposted KNOW? – keep your eyes peeled). The walk Sydney’s coastline is so extensive finishes at the Spit Bridge, where you could spend whole weeks walking local buses will zip you back to it. One company, Auswalk, offers privately guided, multi-day itineraries the city. Pack a picnic and, if it’s covering the best of North to South hot, your swimming costume and Head as well as Middle Harbour, sunscreen too. taking in picturesque beaches, Aboriginal sites and sandstone sea cliffs enroute. Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park auswalk.com.au l Your guided walking tour begins Bondi Beach is ideal for Iconic Bondi Icebergs Club deep in the heart of Sydney’s iconic dedicated surfers and is a must-see during any Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, casual paddlers alike Bondi Beach visit home to one of the world’s most concentrated collection of recorded Aboriginal Heritage Sites, and remarkably peaceful waterways. “The white sands and surf are obvious Experience an Aboriginal Welcome to Country ceremony and ochre reasons to visit the famous beachside painting on traditional lands. Guides will entice you with stories about suburb of Bondi, but its thriving shipwrecks, smugglers and escaped shopping district is another” convicts. sydneyoutback.com.au

Bondi to Bronte l This local track, well loved by locals, international celebrities Splash out at Bondi and everyone else besides, leads Sun, surf, sand and shopping all take past buzzing Bondi Beach along place at Sydney’s famous beachside dramatic sandstone cliffs to suburb of Bondi. Learn how to ride tiny Tamarama (often referred the waves of Bondi beach with Let’s Go to as ‘Glamarama’, thanks to ’s passionate and professional its popularity with the local local instructors (letsgosurfing.com. socialite set) before arriving at au). Out of the water, designer fashion, Bronte Beach, where you can organic eats and pop-up markets are all choose from several light-filled up for discovery; stop for a chic lunch cafés for a revitalising cup of at Icebergs (idrb.com) when it’s time coffee (or continue on to several for a break. Don’t miss Aquabumps more beaches). Each spring photography gallery (aquabumps.com) this walk hosts the visual feast – local artist Eugene Tan has created that is Sculpture by the Sea Pack sensibly for the 10km an international reputation for his pop- – but the people-watching is Manly to Spit Bridge Walk – it can art style of beach photography, and his fantastic no matter the season. take a good three to four hours affordable pieces are on sale here. sculpturebythesea.com

HAMILTON LUND, DESTINATION NSW LUND, DESTINATION HAMILTON OTHERS: DANIEL BOUD X2 NSW; TOP: DESTINATION sydney.com/bondi 38 australia.com australia.com 39 THE PACIFIC COAST NSW Take a road trip along the The Cape Byron Lighthouse awaits you at the end of a Pack a seafood picnic and Legendary Pacific Coast rugged headland walk head to a secret beach

Sydney is the starting point for one of Australia’s most incredible – and incredibly picturesque – road journeys. Stretching 950km up the coastline to Brisbane, the Legendary Pacific Coast Drive (pacificcoast.com.au) takes about 11 hours sans stops: but stop you must – this trip is a summer holiday tradition for Sydneysiders, and the Newcastle’s newly renovated Merewether journey offers dozens of memorable spots along the way. Ocean Baths are well worth a dip

Zenith Beach lies just 15km east of Port Stephens

Pretty Beach House is nestled on the Central Coast’s Bouddi Peninsula

Indulge in Central Swim with Dine on the Picnic on a Meet Australia’s Head to Port Stephens for a on’t miss a swim at Newcastle’s memorable dip with dolphins at jetty at Coffs secret beach coolest beach town D historic Ocean Baths, or, a little Coast luxury further north, a stroll along the It’s so close to Sydney that some Port Stephens Harbour There are so many beaches along Between tropical rainforest and a unbelievably beautiful beaches of Seal Rocks. residents commute, yet the lakes, Just north of the Central Coast The beautiful beachside town this road trip you’re virtually shimmering sea sits the bohemian At you’ll find 18 beaches to bays and beaches of the Central – about three hours’ drive from of Coffs Harbour has a guaranteed of finding one for town of Byron Bay, a place that – choose from, alongside a burgeoning gourmet Coast feel a world away from Sydney – guests of wooden jetty that’s ideal for yourself. From Port Stephens, with its alluring mix of fabulous scene (don’t miss Cassegrain Winery for Australia’s largest city. Visit the Swim Australia fulfil a dream sipping a coffee or enjoying head up the highway to isolated coffee, light-filled yoga studios lunch). Further north you’ll find the laid back golden sands of Avoca Beach, of many: a dip with wild fish and chips at the busy Treachery Beach, a place of azure and pristine natural surrounds surfing town of Yamba, a great last stop before shop for pretty homewares in dolphins. During this sunrise marina. Afterwards, head waters and powdery white sand – has long been a lure for surfers fabulous Byron Bay (take a dip in the tea-tree charming Hardys Bay or escape tour dolphins take the inland to walk in the (perfect for picnics), while further and style-makers. Walk stained Lake Ainsworth at Lennox Head if to the luxurious surrounds of initiative, choosing to play otherworldly rainforests of north on the Coffs Coast, sit at along the beach and you might you’ve got time). Once you’ve explored Byron Kim’s Beachside Lodges, Pretty and splash around with their Dorrigo National Park, then Emerald Beach’s only restaurant see dolphins playing in the sea, (p42), more beaches come thick and fast along Beach House (above) or Bells At delighted human swimming rest your head at one of the in town and watch local surfers. or slip straight into the sunset the Tweed coastline, which stretches all the way Killcare, all close by the tranquil companions – an experience many local beachside resorts Or simply pull over when you scene with a cocktail in hand. to Queensland. Need more inspiration? Here surrounds of Bouddi National Park. you’ll never forget. before continuing on. feel like it – which beach will Turn over for more Byron-based

are more highlights: visitcentralcoast.com.au PRETTY BEACH HOUSE: ANSON SMART X2 NSW DESTINATION dolphinswimaustralia.com.au visitcoffsharbour.com you discover? ideas. visitbyronbay.com

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EXPLORING

5 “What’s better than visiting an Aussie beach? Waking up just of the best footsteps away from one…” IN BYRON BAY

Sleep tight in Escape to the Watch the sun Order a piping Spot the glittering a classic Australian hinterland rise at our most hot latte at beaches from beach house for a luxe retreat easterly point Top Shop a balloon l What’s better than visiting l If you feel like spoiling l As the furthest point l Australians take their l Byron Bay is actually an Aussie beach? Waking yourself, you’ll find several east on the Australian coffee very seriously, and home to more than one up just footsteps away from luxury spa retreats just mainland, the Cape at the Top Shop café – bay – and definitely more one. Byron Bay has an outside of town. We love Byron Lighthouse offers set in a renovated Byron than one beach! Jump enormous variety of holiday five-star The Byron at an iconic spot to start homestead – you’ll find into a hot air balloon houses for rent, from cute, Byron (thebyronatbyron. the day. Arrive early to the best brew for miles. and you’ll spot up to shabby-chic shacks to com.au), Gaia Retreat & watch the sun’s first Arrive mid-morning for a two dozen – from patrolled glossy, multi-million dollar Spa (gaiaretreat.com.au) rays hit the continent… sunny spot on the lawn Main Beach and celebrity residences. Make sure you and Escape Haven or visit at any time of and ask for a latte – this Wategos, to get up early at least one (escapehaven.com), a luxury day for a cracking milky, smooth coffee is an family-friendly Little morning and say hello to yoga and surf retreat only view over the town Australian favourite for good Wategos, Clarkes and the the many local kookaburras for women. The exclusive and coastline. reason (+612 6685 6495). secret paradise of Whites. – these curious birds are Elements of Byron resort, byronbayballooning.com.au always up at sunrise. meanwhile, is due to open byronluxurybeachhouses. in February 2016 com.au (elementsofbyron.com.au). MAIN IMAGE: DESTINATION NSW; BELOW FROM LEFT: ALISA KATAN, ALISA KATAN, BELOW FROM LEFT: NSW; MAIN IMAGE: DESTINATION YOUNG ELEMENTS OF BYRON, DAVID

MAIN IMAGE: MIKE NEWLING, TOURISM AUSTRALIA Escape Haven Elements of Byron The Byron at Byron xxxxx xxxxx

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EXPLORING

of the9 best THE BUCKET LIST

l Stay at six-star Capella Lodge, with stunning ocean views and surrounds. Also check out Arajilla Retreat and Pinetrees Lodge. lordhowe.com l Take in the turtles from a glass-bottomed boat. If you’re feeling adventurous, grab a snorkel to explore the island’s gardens. islandercruises.com.au l Find flora and fauna with a world-class naturalist. Author and photographer Ian Hutton’s walks around North Bay are deservedly popular. islandercruises.com.au The view from Malabar Hill back l towards Lord Howe Island’s Feed fish by hand at Neds Beach. Mounts Lidgbird and Gower Get up close to the likes of mullet, , garfish and kingfish. l Discover deep-sea fishing. Nearby Ball’s Pyramid is so beset by fish it has earned the nickname Land in paradise on Lord Howe Island Fisherman’s Castle. fishinglord offers some of the best howeisland.com.au snorkelling in the country l Rent a bike. is the island’s Lord Howe Island most common form of transport. lord howeisland.info/services/wilsons.htm David Attenborough once described Lord Howe Island, two hours’ flight l Feast on a gourmet picnic. from Sydney, as “so extraordinary it’s almost unbelievable”. And when you Accommodation providers such land on the single airstrip comprising the airport, it won’t take you long as Capella Lodge can suggest a to see why. This 12km-long stretch in the Pacific is a favourite of both spectacular location and provide the food to boot. Australian and international tourists, but visitor numbers are restricted to l Dive the world’s southernmost 400 guests a time – so it’s never crowded. There are plenty of places to relax . , reefs and on this pristine patch of paradise (try Neds Beach, famous for its fish feeding, the nearby Admiralty Islands splash in what locals have dubbed the ‘champagne surf ’ at Blinky Beach, all offer excellent dive sites. or head to the more secluded Little Island), but the island’s World Heritage prodivelordhoweisland.com.au DESTINATION NSW x3 DESTINATION l Hike through a palm . Most listing means you shouldn’t miss the chance to explore. As there are few of Lord Howe is covered in rainforest cars on the island, most people get around by bike, jumping off to wander Wade in just a little way at …and you’ll find colourful or palms: the walk up Malabar Hill the palm and secluded beaches. lordhoweisland.info SNORKELS, JETTY AND COLOURED FISH BY NIKKI TO; OTHERS: Neds Beach… sealife ready to nibble your toes! is a good way to appreciate both.

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Expansive views from DID YOU the Grand Pacific Drive’s Sea Cliff Bridge KNOW? The pristine waters of Jervis Bay are flanked by Booderee National Park. Offering some great bushwalking trails, the park is best known for its camping with both Greenpatch and Caves Beach sites having direct beach access. If you’d rather camp in comfort, try the well-appointed luxury safari tents at Paperbark Camp (paperbarkcamp. com.au).

Sink your toes into the world’s whitest sand Boasting the whitest sand on the planet, Hyams Beach deserves its international reputation. The long beaches, calm waters and serene location on the southern shores of Jervis Bay, Collette Dinnigan Penthouse Suite at just three hours’ drive south of Sydney, all combine to make Bannisters by the Sea Hyams a memorable spot on the stunning NSW South Coast. While swimming and snorkelling are perennially popular, staying out of the water can pay off too: visitors love Dolphin Wild kangaroos at Watch Cruises’ trips (dolphinwatch.com.au), and given their Pebbly Beach are Heading to Hyams? penchant for playing near the bow of the company’s boats, famously friendly Pack the sunglasses and prepare to be dazzled so do the local dolphins. visitnsw.com

Sheltered Jervis Bay boasts one of the longest whale- watching seasons in NSW

Cruise on a coastal road trip

he NSW South Coast is home to overlooking Mollymook Beach, seaside l Take an inland detour to the Canberra T some of the country’s best seafood getaways don’t come any more stylish District, one of Australia’s most rapidly – ask a local, they’ll tell you the (or tasty) than this. bannisters.com.au expanding wine regions, with more than fish practically jump onto your hook in these 140 vineyards and 30 cellar doors. Many l Hop on the sand with a kangaroo. On parts – fabulous artisan cheeses and some wineries are boutique family-run operations, Pebbly Beach in Murramarang National Park, seriously good places to wine and dine, with so you won’t find their labels in your local grey kangaroos inhabit a spectacular seaside water views to match. It takes around five wine shop. You never know what new home, and you’ll often see them at the water’s spectacular hours to drive its length, from favourite you’ll discover. edge. Although they are used to people, visitnsw.com Wollongong (an hour south of Sydney) down they are wild so do exercise caution for this l Spot whales in Eden. This small town to the southern tip at Eden – that is, if you genuine only-in-Australia wildlife moment. offers superb viewing of the humpback don’t stop to soak up some of these brilliant whales that pass Twofold Bay every spring. beachside activities on offer along the way: l Dine on fresh oysters in Pambula.* The Killer Whale Museum has been Many locals believe the oysters here are fascinating visitors with whale tales for l among the world’s best, so put their claim Drive a Porsche or Ferrari (clifftocoast.com. more than 80 years, and the nearby ruins of to the taste test. In fact there are so many au) along the 665m Sea Cliff Bridge. Part Davidson station is a fascinating of the spectacular Grand Pacific Drive, this oyster growers on the South Coast that it’s look at a bygone industry. visiteden.com.au scenic stretch starts just south of Sydney and been nicknamed the Oyster Coast – and continues for 140km until Nowra, hugging Pambula is just one stop on the 300km- l Drive on to . The town sandstone cliffs much of the way. With views long Oyster Trail. sapphirecoast.com.au; of Eden is only a short drive from the at almost every turn and plenty to see and do australiasoystercoast.com Victorian border (p57) and the highway along the way it’s guaranteed to be a road trip continues to hug the coast all the way, so l Visit Montague Island, where little there’s plenty more fun in the sun and you’ll never forget. grandpacificdrive.com.au penguins from one of Australia’s largest beautiful beaches and waterways to discover. l Stay at boutique hotel Bannisters by breeding sites come ashore at dusk. For a sydneymelbournetouring.com.au the Sea with its elegant Collette Dinnigan- taste of island life, spend the night in the designed penthouse suites and restaurant by beautifully restored lighthouse keepers’ celebrity chef Rick Stein, everyone’s favourite cottage and wake up to simply extraordinary *You can read more about driving the TV seafood chef. Perched on a clifftop ocean views. montagueisland.com.au NSW South Coast via Canberra on p56. LEFT: DOLPHIN WATCH CRUISES JERVIS BAY, DESTINATION NSW; NSW; DESTINATION CRUISES JERVIS BAY, DOLPHIN WATCH LEFT: ABOVE: SHUTTERSTOCK TOP: DESTINATION NSW; ABOVE: BANNISTERS BY THE SEA NSW; TOP: DESTINATION

46 australia.com australia.com 47 NSW ALBURY AND THE MURRAY

EXPLORE Follow the road to the nation’s greatest river Around five hours’ drive southwest of around 90 minutes to two hours’ drive the town in 1915, and when they got Sydney is the thriving town of Albury, south of Sydney, are the perfect place their hands on the decommissioned gracefully perched on the edge of the for a pit stop. Browse the galleries, HMAS Otway some 80 years later, they Murray River. Australia’s most important boutiques and antiques in Mittagong, thought it would make a fitting memorial. waterway, the Murray traverses three picnic beside Lake Alexandra, take a There’s now a submarine museum next states before linking with other river stroll back through time in historic to it (holbrooksubmarinemuseum.com) systems at the . It’s here Berrima, enjoy some fresh air in Bowral’s with two other subs and some in this wonderfully diverse regional hub magnificent gardens, or step out on the fascinating exhibitions. that you can – among other things – Wingecarribee River walking track near holiday on a houseboat (in fact you can Vale. southern-highlands.com.au Lake Hume do this at various points along the Built in the 1920s near Albury, this Murray; read about the houseboat The Dog on the Tuckerbox man-made lake with its massive dam holiday experience along the Victorian No-one really knows why this bronze wall was a modern marvel at the time, section of the Murray on p65, or see statue of a kelpie sitting on a lunchbox now overshadowed by the engineering murrayriver.com.au/albury for is an Australian icon, but it is, and it’s feats of the Snowy Mountains Scheme information on the Albury section in every bit as famous among Australians up the road. It’s a great place to fish NSW). But the drive there from Sydney as other national icons such as the Man and paddle, water-ski and sail, or just is filled with its own delights – here are From Snowy River. It’s at the town of chill out on the beach with a book six of our favourites: Gundagai, right beside the highway; you and a glass of local wine. Lake Hume can’t miss it. thedogonthetuckerbox.com Resort is practically on the water’s edge. Fitzroy Falls lakehumeresort.com.au Take a side trip to Fitzroy Falls, Beached submarine where a wall of water plunges over You see some strange things on country Riverside relaxation the edge of the sandstone escarpment roads – like the beached submarine at the There are a myriad ways to relax with a 80 metres to the valley floor below. town of Holbrook. Given that Holbrook water view in Albury. Hire a canoe, take Follow the boardwalk through the is at least 400km from the sea, you’d a cruise, explore the 15km Murray River rainforest to a lookout with jaw-dropping be forgiven for asking why! The answer walking and cycle trail that meanders views of the falls – it’s fantastic in spring goes back 100 years, when the town through a string of riverside parks – a when the wildflowers are in bloom. was known as Germanton and local lad, highlight is Yindyamarra Sculpture nationalparks.nsw.gov.au Lieutenant N.D. Holbrook, became the Walk – check out the historic waterworks first submariner to receive the Victoria in Mungabareena Reserve, or just sit Country charm Cross (the highest military medal in back and watch the world float past at The collection of cute-as-a-button the British Commonwealth) in WWI. The River Deck restaurant and café. villages in the Southern Highlands, The townsfolk celebrated by renaming visitalburywodonga.com

At a shade over 2500km, the mighty Murray is SHUTTERSTOCK Australia’s longest river xxxxx xxxxx

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