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Mein Aleppo I My Aleppo Edition Esefeld & Traub Mein Aleppo I My Aleppo edition esefeld & traub Humboldtstraße 6 70178 Stuttgart Germany www.edition-et.de [email protected] Copyright Fotografien von Archiv Poche-Marrache, Archiv Thierry Grandin, Jörg Esefeld, Anette Gangler, Paul Hahn, Meinolf Spiekermann u. a. Photographs by Archive Poche-Marrache, Archive Thierry Grandin, Jörg Esefeld, Anette Gangler, Paul Hahn, Meinolf Spiekermann, a. o. Beiträge von den Autoren I Contributions by the authors Alle Rechte vorbehalten I All rights reserved Herausgegeben von I Edited by Anette Gangler, Meinolf Spiekermann Übersetzung I Translation Jim Kautt, Suleman Taufiq, Fares Youwakim Lektorat I Copy-editing Isolde Bacher Grafische Gestaltungsberatung Grafic design consultancy Susanne Puzicha, à propos kommunikation & design, Stuttgart Druck I Printed by gutenberg beuys Feindruckerei, Langenhagen 2. durchgesehene Auflage I 2nd revised edition 2015 ISBN 978-3-9809887-6-6 مدينتي حلب Mein Aleppo I My Aleppo 000 Frutiger, 45 Light, 11pt Frutiger, 55 Roman, 11pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 15pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 11pt Frutiger, 55 Roman, 11pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 15pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 11pt Frutiger, 55 Roman, 11pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 15pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 11pt Frutiger, 55 Roman, 11pt Frutiger, 45 Light, 15pt Frutiger, 45 Light,ĚŨİŝŨ 11pt Vorwort Frutiger,Prologue 55 Roman, ĚŨİŝŨ 11pt 06Frutiger, 45 Light,ĚŨİŝŨ 15pt ĚŨİŝŨ Vorwort Prologue ĚŨİŝŨ 06 ĚŨİŝŨ Frutiger, 45 Light,ĚŨİŝŨ 11pt Vorwort Frutiger,Prologue 55 Roman, ĚŨİŝŨ 11pt 06Frutiger, 45 Light,ĚŨİŝŨ 15pt ĚŨİŝŨ FotosVorwort 1 Prologue ĚŨİŝŨ 11 06 ĚŨİŝŨ Fotos 1 11 ĚŨİŝŨ ArchivFotosVorwort 1 Poche-Marrache Prologue ĚŨİŝŨ / 11 06 Archiv Poche-Marrache / ĚŨİŝŨ ArchivFotos 1 ThierryPoche-Marrache Grandin / 11 Vorwort I Prologue ĚŨİŝŨ 06VorwortArchiv ThierryPrologue Grandin ĚŨİŝŨ 06 ĚŨİŝŨ ArchiveArchivFotos 1 ThierryPoche-Marrache Poche-Marrache Grandin / / 11 Archive Poche-Marrache / Fotos 1 11ArchiveArchiv ThierryPoche-Marrache ThierryPoche-Marrache Grandin Grandin / / 11 ǧ ijŵŀ FotosArchive 1 ThierryPoche-Marrache Grandin ǧ ijŵŀ / Archiv Poche-Marrache / ArchiveArchiv Thierry Thierry Grandin Grandin ǧijŵŀ ĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ Archiv Poche-MarracheĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ / Archiv Thierry Grandin ǧijŵŀ Archive ThierryPoche-Marrache Grandinǧijŵŀ / ĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ Archiv ThierryŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻē GrandinĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ Archive Poche-MarracheĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁǁ / ǧijŵŀ ĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁǁ ǧijŵŀ ĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ Archive ThierryŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ Grandin ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ Archive Thierry GrandinŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ Archive Poche-MarracheŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ / ǁ ǧijŵŀ ǧijŵŀ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ Archive ThierryŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ Grandin ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉǁ ǧijŵŀ Inhalt Contents ěĔŻŵĝĩũŤēĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ Fotos 2 ĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ 55 ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉǧijŵŀ Fotos 2 ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ ǧijŵŀ Ļē ĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉ ǁ 55 Inhalt Contents VerschiedeneFotos 2 Fotografen 55 ǧijŵŀ Inhalt Contents ěĔŻŵĝĩũŤēĻēĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉ ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ ěĔŻŵĝĩũŤēǁ VariousVerschiedene PhotographersĻē FotografenĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉǁ Inhalt ContentsFotos 2 ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ 55FotosVerschiedene 2 ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ Fotografen Ļē ĴŨųĬŵĖŚżļijĉ ǁ 55 ěĔŻŵĝĩũŤēǨijŵŀ Various PhotographersǨijŵŀ VerschiedeneVariousFotos 2 Photographers Fotografen ŮŻİŬēĴŔźĴżżĜŚżļijĉ 55 Ǩijŵŀ Inhalt ContentsVerschiedene FotografeněĔŻŵĝĩũŤē ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ Ǩijŵŀ Various Photographers ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ VariousVerschiedene Photographers FotografenŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ Fotos 2 ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ 55ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ Inhalt Contents ěĔŻŵĝĩũŤēǨijŵŀ Various PhotographersǨijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ Verschiedene FotografenŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ ǨĕĔijŵŀ ǁĝƿšŤē Autoren Authors ǨĕĔijŵŀ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐǨĕĔijŵŀ ǁĝƿšŤē ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē VariousAutoren PhotographersAuthorsŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐ ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē Autoren I Authors ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261DanksagungenAutoren AuthorsAcknowledgements ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 Ǩijŵŀ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē Danksagungen AcknowledgementsĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļǨijŵŀ Ǩijŵŀ Danksagungen I Acknowledgements AutorenDanksagungenAuthorsAcknowledgements ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ŮŻijŵŁŨęİŐĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē FotonachweisDanksagungenAutoren Authors PhotoAcknowledgements ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ CreditsĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ Fotonachweis Photo Credits ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē Fotonachweis I Photo CreditsijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ FotonachweisDanksagungen PhotoAcknowledgementsijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ Credits ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē Autoren AuthorsijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē 261 ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĕĔ ǁĝƿšŤē ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ GlossarFotonachweisGlossary PhotoijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ Credits ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ Glossar Glossary ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ Glossar I Glossary ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ DanksagungenGlossar GlossaryAcknowledgementsijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ GlossarFotonachweisGlossary Photo Credits ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ Glossar GlossaryěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘĴŻİŝĜŴĴšļ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ Fotonachweis Photo Credits ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ Glossar GlossaryěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘijŵŁŤēijįĔŁŨ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ Glossar GlossaryěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ ěĔĨĔʼnŁũŤēķĴŲŘ مقدمة Vorwort Prologue 000 Aleppo – in ihrer 5000 Jahre langen und be- Die Auswahl der Fotografien, die den kurzen über Jahrhunderte vom Zusammenleben unter- wegten Geschichte hat diese Stadt so viele Me- Texten gegenübergestellt sind, spiegelt sehr per- schiedlicher ethnischer und religiöser Gruppen tamorphosen erlebt wie kaum eine andere. 1986 sönliche Eindrücke wider. Es sind eher alltägliche geprägt war. Die Beiträge dokumentierten be- wurde die gesamte Altstadt mit der Zitadelle, de- Momentaufnahmen von Einheimischen und reits damals ein Stück weit die Vergangenheit, ren Ursprünge bis ins 3. Jahrtausend v. Chr. nach- Fremden, vom Sichtbaren und Unsichtbaren, aus da sich die städtischen Strukturen sowie das weisbar sind, mit dem Suq, in dem bis heute der den engen Altstadtquartieren und dem Suq mit Alltagsleben der Einwohner Aleppos rapide ver- hellenistische Stadtgrundriss noch erkennbar ist, seiner lärmenden Intimität, dem Blick von der änderten. Viele der im Buch dargestellten Sicht- und mit den unzähligen historischen Monumen- Zitadelle über die Stadt und vom Eintauchen in weisen haben heute keinen Bestand mehr, viele ten aus islamischer Zeit und früheren Epochen teilweise fremde und verborgene Lebenswelten der syrischen Autorinnen und Autoren mussten in die Liste des Weltkulturerbes aufgenommen. Aleppos und seiner Bewohner. Wobei sich bis- ihre Stadt verlassen und sich in völlig neuer Um- Heute ist Aleppo mit fast drei Millionen Men- weilen beim Betrachter schnell das Gefühl ein- gebung zurechtfinden. Das Buch ist über die schen die Industrie- und Handelsmetropole Sy- stellt, hier ein Stück weit zu Hause zu sein. Jahre zum Zeugnis einer vergangenen Zeit ge- riens und die Altstadt mit 120.000 Einwohnern Liebenswert macht die Stadt vor allem die Gast- worden – gerade dies hat uns veranlasst, es in eine Stadt in der Stadt. freundschaft der Aleppiner. Ihre Offenheit ge- zweiter, durchgesehener Auflage bewusst weit- Die Geheimnisse und Gegensätze, die sich hin- genüber Fremden gehört zu den stärksten unter gehend unverändert zu belassen. ter den steinernen Mauern der Altstadtgassen den vielfältigen Erlebnissen und Erfahrungen Wir möchten mit der Zweitauflage neben der verbergen, haben uns seit den ersten Besuchen während unserer gemeinsamen langjährigen Tä- Bekundung unseres Respekts vor dem Schicksal in Aleppo nicht mehr losgelassen. Immer wieder tigkeit in Aleppo. Mit diesem Buch möchten wir der Bewohner Aleppos einen Beitrag dazu leis- neue Entdeckungen in der Stadt und der damit uns vor allem bei ihnen bedanken. ten, die Erinnerung an die verlorene Heimat, an verbundenen Geschichte vergangener Jahrhun- diese vormals schöne und stolze Stadt aufrecht- derte und vor allem die Begegnungen mit ihren Anette Gangler / Meinolf Spiekermann zuerhalten – gerade weil dieser Krieg so viel von Bewohnern haben unser Bild dieser Stadt von (2011) dem infrage stellt oder gar zerstört hat, worauf „innen“ geprägt. Die Beiträge in diesem Buch die Aleppinerinnen und Aleppiner stolz waren haben Erinnerungen, Erlebnisse und Beobach- und sich verlassen haben: die jahrhunderte- tungen über unser Aleppo wieder lebendig Als dieses Buch im Herbst 2011 erschien, haben alte Geschichte der religiösen und ethnischen werden lassen und in ihrer Wirkung noch weiter wir die Katastrophe in Syrien nicht vorhergese- Vielfalt, die Kraft einer 5000-jährigen Stadtge- verstärkt. hen. Zwar haben wir damals schon geahnt – die schichte, Toleranz, Freundlichkeit und so vieles Für die unterschiedlichen Sichtweisen der Auto- Proteste gegen das Regime hatten bereits be- mehr. Wir finden, dass dieses Geschichtenbuch ren und Fotografen, die die Stadt aus der Sicht gonnen –, dass Syrien und somit auch Aleppo inzwischen auch ein Geschichtsbuch ist. der Aleppiner kennen, in ihr gearbeitet oder sie vielleicht nie mehr so sein würden, wie die Ge- besucht haben, und für ihre Texte und Bilder schichten in diesem Buch sie beschreiben. Aber Anette Gangler / Meinolf Spiekermann möchten wir uns herzlich bedanken. wir haben uns nicht vorstellen können, dass die (2015) Es ist ein Buch entstanden, das versucht, nicht anfängliche Forderung nach Würde und Recht nur die „Sehenswürdigkeiten“ Aleppos, sondern zu diesem schrecklichen Krieg führen würde, „Innenansichten“ vom Leben der Aleppiner zu der nicht
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