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Jammu & (including )

Includes  Why Go? Ladakh...... 223 J&K combines three incredibly different worlds into one ...... 226 state. Hindu Jammu, the state’s major railhead, is a busy hub Valley. . . . 248 for domestic pilgrims. Muslim Kashmir is ’s Switzerland,­ . . . . .251 attracting hoards of local tourists seeking cool summer air, alpine scenery and Srinagar’s romantic houseboat accommo- ...... 258 dation. For most foreigners, J&K’s greatest attraction is the . . . . . 259 Himalayan land of Ladakh, whose disarmingly friendly, eth- ...... 260 no-linguistically are predominantly Buddhist. Kashmir Valley. . . 262 Their timeless monasteries are set between arid canyons and Srinagar...... 264 soaring peaks with emerald-green villages nestled photogeni- cally in highland deserts. Jammu...... 276 Although Kashmir has been relatively calm of late, be aware that it is politically volatile and arguments over its status caused three 20th-century wars. Ladakh is different, a medi- tatively calm world, where the main concern is giving yourself Best Buddhist ample time for high-altitude acclimatisation. Note that Lada- Monasteries kh is inaccessible by road outside the summer season. ¨¨Yungdrung (Lamayuru) Gompa (p256) When to Go ¨¨Thekchhok () Gompa (p245) Leh °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ ¨ Gompa (p244) 40/104 32/800 ¨¨Phuktal Gompa (p262) 24/600 ¨¨ Gompa (p248) 20/68 16/400

0/32 8/200 Best Mountain -20/-4 0 Scenery J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Pangong Tso (p251) Apr–Jun Kashmir Jul–Aug Perfect Winter Ski sea- ¨¨Dal (p265) is in full bloom but for Ladakh; rain son at Gulmarg. ¨¨ and the overloaded with drenches Jammu. Ladakh has Valley (p250) domestic tourists. Countless pilgrims festivals but no Prices peak. flood to Amarnath. road access for ¨¨Leh–Manali road (p244) tourists. Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh) LLAadDakAKhH 223

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Ladakh of subdistricts is now a pair with Ladakh reports news and weather are Ladakh’s greatest king, greatest ­ Sengge Nam Ladakh’s - is a fun celebra September, held in late , n 1470 when their progenitor Lhachenprogenitor their when 1470 n mained an independent kingdom until the kingdom mained an independent 1840s the region was annexed when by the The maharajas. Namgyals eventual Jammu Archaeo to the Indian ly passed Leh Palace logical Survey and retired to their summer . palace at culturallyfora situation odd That’s J&K. in which is one of the last rela this ‘little ’, Buddhist societies undisturbed Tantric tively on Earth. permitted When tourism was first the area feared that commentators in 1974 but the traditional lose its identity, would of the Ladakhislifestyle unex has proved pectedly robust to outside influences. Mean while locally relevant technologies, such as thermal-storage solar energy and Trombe living rural helped to improve walls, have standards. through www.reachladakh.com. available ‘Tibetanised’ Buddhism 9th in the century, form that’s in an Indian originally arrived temple artisanshipvisible in ancient . at Buddhist sects different time, however, Over struggled with the Tibet for prominence, an Gelukpa order eventually the becoming after philosophy its introductionmajority in the 14th century by Tibetan pilgrim Tsong left a curious ). relic at khapa (who gyal (r 1616–42) gained riches by plunder reservesing gold Tibetfrom western and Leh.re-established a capital at Ladakh re i a conquered Basgo, ruling from Bhagan, competingLadakhi Leh/ at based kingdom Ladakh Although culturally had been . (Leh) ------robe costumes. Men might sport tall gonda Men might sport costumes. -robe

‘crowns’ encrusted with turquoise. The most The most with turquoise. encrusted ‘crowns’ Ladakh Festival (roast barley flour) and walls topped with countless walls topped mani (barley booze). Such self-sufficiency Leh’s tourist-friendly tourist-friendly Leh’s ) is a new, vibrant celebration of Nubra Valley culture includ- culture Valley Nubra of celebration vibrant (p251) is a new, Festival Silk Route Ladakhdramat of walls by in hemmed is Ladakh’s remarkably well-balanced tradi well-balanced remarkably Ladakh’s tion of locals dressed in traditional goncha in traditional dressed locals tion of LADAKHI FESTIVALS LADAKHI similar a relatively follow Most Zanskar. abound in Ladakh and festivals temple Buddhist propor fair by a watched precinct or monastery in a square dances with masked formula hats with some women wearing perak wearing women with some hats February/ and Year) (Ladakhi New Losar at December usually in are festivals genuine effi- Diskit and where Leh, in notably Year) (Buddhist New during Dosmoche March Around the desert. into burnt or cast are year the old of spirits the evil representing gies and ritual acrobatics blindfolded perform oracles monastery, time at Matho’s the same tourists but now held in the summer, are festivals monastery other Several mutilations. see calendar, online festival a detailed For the crowd. of proportion a large form often www.reachladakh.com/festival_dates.htm. tion including several days of Buddhist dances, polo, music and archery. polo, dances, Buddhist of days tion including several camel riding and dances. contests, ing archery Ladakh’s (now-deposed) royal family traces (now-deposed) royal family Ladakh’s to AD 975. back 39 generations its dynasty They took the name Namgyal (Victorious) History ic mountains. This for unforgettable makes road access that landscapes, but be aware tortuouscrossing requires thatpasses high close altogether from around October to when snows are heavy). (or longer May ucts, and barley organic vegetables used tsampato make chhang the shortis an incredible achievement given growing season and very land limited arable in this upland desert, where precious water supplies must channelled be laboriously from glacier-melt mountain streams. tional society has much to teach the West in tional society has much to teach the West While mostterms of ecological awareness. mud- traditional Ladakhis poor, are cash comfortablebrick homesteads are large, in fuel and dairy prod and self-sufficient ors are colourfully awash with murals and with murals ors are colourfully awash statuary bodhisattvas. of numerous crops amid whitewashedcrops amid stupas and medi tational pebbles. Colourfulmantra-inscribed flut their spiritual flags spread tering prayer metaphoricallymessages with the mountain release clockwise wheels spun breeze. Prayer Gompamore merit-making mantras. interi Spectacularly jagged, en arid mountains Buddhist magical, fold this ex-kingdom. Picture-perfect (Tibetangompas Buddhist out crown rocky monasteries) dramatically LADAKH