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Jammu & Kashmir ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh) Includes ¨ Why Go? Ladakh ............ 223 J&K combines three incredibly different worlds into one Leh ............... 226 state. Hindu Jammu, the state’s major railhead, is a busy hub Nubra Valley ....... 248 for domestic pilgrims. Muslim Kashmir is India’s Switzerland, Pangong Tso ........251 attracting hoards of local tourists seeking cool summer air, alpine scenery and Srinagar’s romantic houseboat accommo- Kargil ............. 258 dation. For most foreigners, J&K’s greatest attraction is the Suru Valley ........ 259 Himalayan land of Ladakh, whose disarmingly friendly, eth- Zanskar ........... 260 no-linguistically Tibetan people are predominantly Buddhist. Kashmir Valley ..... 262 Their timeless monasteries are set between arid canyons and Srinagar ........... 264 soaring peaks with emerald-green villages nestled photogeni- cally in highland deserts. Jammu .............276 Although Kashmir has been relatively calm of late, be aware that it is politically volatile and arguments over its status caused three 20th-century wars. Ladakh is different, a medi- tatively calm world, where the main concern is giving yourself Best Buddhist ample time for high-altitude acclimatisation. Note that Lada- Monasteries kh is inaccessible by road outside the summer season. ¨ Yungdrung (Lamayuru) Gompa (p256) When to Go ¨ Thekchhok (Chemrey) Gompa (p245) Leh °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Thiksey Gompa (p244) 40/104 32/800 ¨ Phuktal Gompa (p262) 24/600 ¨ Diskit Gompa (p248) 20/68 16/400 0/32 8/200 Best Mountain -20/-4 0 Scenery J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Pangong Tso (p251) Apr–Jun Kashmir Jul–Aug Perfect Winter Ski sea- ¨ Dal Lake (p265) is in full bloom but for Ladakh; rain son at Gulmarg. ¨ Turtuk and the overloaded with drenches Jammu. Ladakh has Shyok Valley (p250) domestic tourists. Countless pilgrims festivals but no Prices peak. flood to Amarnath. road access for ¨ Leh–Manali road (p244) tourists. 223 LADAKH in 1470 when their progenitor Lhachen Bhagan, ruling from Basgo, conquered a Spectacularly jagged, arid mountains en- competing Ladakhi kingdom based at Leh/ fold this magical, Buddhist ex-kingdom. Shey. Although Ladakh had been culturally Picture-perfect gompas (Tibetan Buddhist ‘Tibetanised’ in the 9th century, Buddhism monasteries) dramatically crown rocky out- crops amid whitewashed stupas and medi- originally arrived in an Indian form that’s tational mani walls topped with countless visible in ancient temple artisanship at Alchi. mantra-inscribed pebbles. Colourful flut- Over time, however, different Buddhist sects tering prayer flags spread their spiritual struggled for prominence, with the Tibet- messages metaphorically with the mountain an Gelukpa order eventually becoming the breeze. Prayer wheels spun clockwise release majority philosophy after its introduction in more merit-making mantras. Gompa interi- the 14th century by Tibetan pilgrim Tsong- ors are colourfully awash with murals and khapa (who left a curious relic at Spituk). statuary of numerous bodhisattvas. Ladakh’s greatest king, Sengge Nam- Ladakh’s remarkably well-balanced tradi- gyal (r 1616–42) gained riches by plunder- tional society has much to teach the West in ing gold reserves from western Tibet and terms of ecological awareness. While most re-established a capital at Leh. Ladakh re- Ladakhis are cash poor, traditional mud- mained an independent kingdom until the brick homesteads are large, comfortable 1840s when the region was annexed by the and self-sufficient in fuel and dairy prod- Jammu maharajas. The Namgyals eventual- ucts, organic vegetables and barley used ly passed Leh Palace to the Indian Archaeo- to make tsampa (roast barley flour) and logical Survey and retired to their summer chhang (barley booze). Such self-sufficiency palace at Stok. (INCLUDING KASHMIR & JAMMU is an incredible achievement given the short Ladakh is now a pair of subdistricts with- growing season and very limited arable land in J&K. That’s a culturally odd situation for in this upland desert, where precious water this ‘little Tibet’, which is one of the last rela- supplies must be laboriously channelled tively undisturbed Tantric Buddhist societies from glacier-melt mountain streams. on Earth. When tourism was first permitted Ladakh is hemmed in by walls of dramat- in 1974 commentators feared that the area ic mountains. This makes for unforgettable would lose its identity, but the traditional landscapes, but be aware that road access lifestyle of the Ladakhis has proved unex- requires crossing tortuous high passes that pectedly robust to outside influences. Mean- close altogether from around October to while locally relevant technologies, such as May (or longer when snows are heavy). solar energy and Trombe thermal-storage History walls, have helped to improve rural living standards. Ladakh’s (now-deposed) royal family traces L Ladakh news and weather reports are ADA its dynasty back 39 generations to AD 975. available through www.reachladakh.com. They took the name Namgyal (Victorious) K H) H) L LA LADAKHI FESTIVALS A D D Buddhist temple festivals abound in Ladakh and Zanskar. Most follow a relatively similar AK formula with masked dances in a square or monastery precinct watched by a fair propor- H tion of locals dressed in traditional goncha-robe costumes. Men might sport tall gonda hats with some women wearing perak ‘crowns’ encrusted with turquoise. The most genuine festivals are usually in December at Losar (Ladakhi New Year) and February/ March during Dosmoche (Buddhist New Year) notably in Leh, Diskit and Likir where effi- gies representing the evil spirits of the old year are burnt or cast into the desert. Around the same time at Matho’s monastery, oracles perform blindfolded acrobatics and ritual mutilations. Several other monastery festivals are now held in the summer, but tourists often form a large proportion of the crowd. For a detailed online festival calendar, see www.reachladakh.com/festival_dates.htm. Leh’s tourist-friendlyLadakh Festival (Leh), held in late September, is a fun celebra- tion including several days of Buddhist dances, polo, music and archery. Silk Route Festival (p251) is a new, vibrant celebration of Nubra Valley culture includ- ing archery contests, camel riding and dances..
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