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Enicarló: Surprising Maestrazgos

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Enicarló: Surprising Maestrazgos Benicarló: Surprising Maestrazgos “Everywhere one breathes in fresh air and our species prolongs its life with vigor. The climate varies greatly, even at short distances... Cabanilles. Siglo xviii ENICARLÓ A ncient geography and accidents of history and war gave this B land the varied Maestrazgo, the historical name for these And Its Parador territories. There is history, there are the influences of Teruel and Castile. There is anthropology, gastronomy, and there is even the maestrazgo of the tourist. According to the always debatable viewpoint of the historian, the politician and even the traveler: the Maestrazgo is as lovely as it is unpleasant, united and protected by the high plateaus of Teruel and the passes of Morella. Lowland territories lead to clement shores, the very different landscape sown with olive groves and almond trees. Sant Mateu, a short thirty kilometers from the Parador, rules the area. Its status as capital and commercial, political and cultural center is due to its merits, as will shortly be seen. These are extreme landscapes filled with inhospitable surroundings and pleasant corners: marine romances fragrant with citrus blossoms and almond trees flowering amid mountains and jagged rocks; clay-based cultures in the caves of painted men and beasts; bastard miracles of Iberians, Romans, Carthaginians and Christian Moors, of renegade Christians; Templar opulence, castles with crumbling stone crosses and shrines set among fig trees, olives and waterwheels. Here are the refuges of false popes excommunicated for pride; of saints deified by portents, pilgrimages and miracles; of Carlist guerrillas furious about inheritances; and the site of more recent wars of virtuous evil-doers and good sinners. Burning Maestrazgos of age-old contrasts. There are the powerful Maestrazgos of flowering thorns and sweet disillusionment; of men offended, kind and forgotten. For the fugitive who is our reader, the scene is set for almost any desire: from beaches overflowing with invisible bikinis to lands and mountains strewn with castles steeped in history, from elaborate Gothic ornaments to the gardens of shrines. You will find a bit of everything here, in a land that is very much Castellón, with another little bit of Teruel. These lands have always deserved the gaze of the illustrious travelers and lustrous passers-by they appeal to. Early on, this out-of-the-way place became the estates of the knightly order of Montesa. On his travels through the region at the end of the 18th century, the remarkable Cabanilles recounted that: “They are arid mountains, generally uncultivable, and so used for pasturage. The rest are relatively fertile valleys and plains, although they have scant irrigation. Everywhere one breathes in fresh air and our species prolongs its life with vigor. The climate varies greatly, even at short distances: it is cold in the area around Peñagolosa and the mountains of Cervera, Culla, Ares and Benafigos, and in contrast, the plains of Benicarló, Vinaroz and Alcalá are temperate and delightful. In most of these villages, the wine harvest is good and of good reputation, followed by oil and carob. The land is enriched by fig trees, honey, silk, delicate fruits, wool and cattle.” BENICARLÓ AND ITS PARADOR 1 the mountain, others climbing up to the wall. The proud and impassive walls of that bygone town planning have survived to the present day. Over the past 30 years, a series of excavations have gradually uncovered these plots, revealing an interesting series of superimposed environments, shedding light on the late Bronze Age: between the 8th and the 5th centuries bc. It was in the early 4th century that the Iberian culture of Puig de la Nau saw its greatest splendor: amazing and abundant remains have been preserved for the admiration of the curious visitor. What is more, these archeological finds tell of fertile contacts with Mediterranean peoples such as the Phoenicians, Carthaginians and Greeks. There are even older remains which show clear similarities to the proto- historic inhabitants of the “fields of urns” of the late Bronze age in the eastern coastal area. It was in the 6th century bc that Greek ships began to burst upon these shores carrying goods, technology, languages, ideologies, beliefs and other fertile mythologies. Ampurias could boast an enviable trade in manufactured goods such as the unique Attic ware, of which important In any case, the reader should put no stake in empty rhetoric, and forge examples have been found in Puig de la Nau, such as those of the a path into the depths of the present in an area which is so beautifully Penthesilea Painter. uneven, rich with culture, art and landscapes. The Puig of Benicarló We can seek, and find, the first local Iberian settlers along the green and forbidding defiles of Forcall; in the environs of picturesque Benasal; and in the charming surroundings of Morella. The Romans called their T he Parador is located on a convenient and temperate coastal descendants the Ilercavones. Those peoples of the eastern coast, just plain near Vinarós, Benicarló and Peñíscola. The land and sea barely Teruel, inhabited the area at least twenty-five centuries ago. They here are as pleasant as can be, protected by the benevolent Puig de la Nao lived in adobe brick houses roofed only with branches and painted using Mountain, which rises to only 160 meters above sea level. red and ochre earth. They were shepherds, potters and warriors, and buried their dead decorated with protective amulets and bronze beads. The Shrine of the Holy Martyrs (Ermita de los Santos Mártires) They ate the venison they hunted, curing the hides, and kept goats and overlooked these ancient peaks back in the 19th century. Just below lie the sheep. preserved remains of the stones used to build the port of Benicarló. This A Torturous Past unique Iberian settlement is very well preserved, and exceptionally valuable for research into the Iberian culture. Scholars calculate that it and a Happy Future came to hold around three hundred homes inhabited by some 1,500 people. A ccording to the most distinguished scholars, the entire area came Despite the fact that it has been ransacked for its stone, there still to life as the Iberian settlements La Tossa and Puig de Nau remain a few score houses and buildings, allowing the visitor to get a appeared some time around the 5th - 4th centuries bc. The walls of the rough idea of what the village was like. In any case, Puig de Benicarló will sites were a necessity, traces of which can still be seen by today’s visitors. always enjoy historical recognition as one of the most important Puig de la Nau is the name given to a modest, yet proud, mountain settlements in these and other lands. which rises as best it can to the north, abutting the Aguaoliva Ravine, the natural boundary between Vinaroz and Benicarló. Conspiracies, Magic and Nearby, to the west, there are remains, vestiges, of the earliest Other Shady Dealings inhabitants. The streets of that first settlement were laid out horizontally, some adapted to the contours of O ver the ages, all our Paradors have known curious and even horrific stories. There are any number of examples and witnesses in virtually every Parador, and they have almost all enjoyed, and suffered, the presence of noteworthy guests. This Parador also occasionally bore witness to some very secret meetings, surprising situations when viewed with modern eyes. But let the curious visitor learn and enjoy – although you may suffer and lament: these very same rooms would be the exceptional witnesses to certain circumstances so crucial that they might perhaps have altered the history of Spain: BENICARLÓ AND ITS PARADOR 2 For example, at this hotel an urgent meeting was held by members of monarchs and the faithful with generous fortunes. In the 13th century, the pro-Franco uprising. Those soldiers, led by Milan del Bosch, even took the Temple would come to be a pioneering, yet not so pious, multinational their tanks to the streets, terrifying civilians and civilized residents. In the corporation. The order had more than twenty thousand full members and end, the rebellion would be contained rapidly, stamped out by King Juan an annual income of more than fifty million francs. They acted as patrons Carlos I himself. and bankers to monarchs and pontiffs. As a result, they became a parallel church and state within the church and state. They would come to hold These rooms have also witnessed the serious decisions recorded by thirty-six castles, and had complete control over the strategic salt market Manuel Azaña, President of the Republic, in the form of a testament here of Peñíscola and Burriana. in Benicarló. This document, the result of the so-called Benicarló Evening, is still an essential historical and political element of modern Spain. Envy and jealousy would put an end to such power. In the 16th century, the order was summarily dissolved by fearful monarchs’ requests and Benicarló, today the land of happy beaches, where the wise traveler prayers to the Roman pontiff. Those wicked tongues accused the friars of may lodge in the comfort of the Parador, offers unique remains of an heresy and practicing strange agnostic, secretive rites. However, the Iberian settlement, despite the fact that the majority of its stones were problem was not to be fully resolved. King Jaime II, in agreement with the cleverly used to shore up the port not so long ago. Still standing to some pope, proposed the formation of a new order, the Order of Montesa, which degree are twenty-some dwellings of the three hundred once present in the was granted many of these lands, and numerous others, together with the village.
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