Airwaves Special Mínus + Mr. Silla & Mongoose + Bloodgroup + Ben Frost + Þórir

The Lonesome Traveller is Out and About • Going Vegan in Svið-land • Ragnar Kjartansson Finds God Awakening the Couch Potatoes • Icelanders and their Elves • Sequences Art Festival

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 16 // Oct 5 - Nov 1 2007 2557 CIN Grapevine jona 330 MBL.ai 10/3/07 12:07:01 PM

02 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Year 5 | October 05 – November 01

The Reykjavík Grapevine Articles Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is Elves in Cultural Vocabulary 06 [email protected] Interview with professor Terry Gunnel www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Published by Fröken ehf. I am Going For a Cup of Coffee 08 Opinion by Viktor Banke Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] The Grapevine Guide to the Airwaves Personalities 08 Advertising: Opinion by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Publisher: Vegan Iceland? 10 +354 540 3601 / [email protected] The Difficulties of Being a Vegan in Iceland The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Can We Do This Indefinately? 12 Publisher: Interview with designer Olof Kolte Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson [email protected] Airwaves Special 14 Editor: Interviews with Ben Frost, Bloodgroup, Þórir and Mr. Silla & Mongoose Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editor: Singing Painting at Nylo 20 Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Interview with artist Ragnar Kjartansson Editorial Intern: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Awakening the Couch Potatoes 21 Contributing Writer: Interview with filmmakers Áslaug Einarsdóttir and Garðar Stéfansson Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Art Director: A Buffet of Quality Icelandic Designs 28 Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson [email protected] Features Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Mínus – Reinventing the Formula 16 Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson [email protected] Support Manager: Music & Nightlife Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Distribution: Of Men and Mongeese 18 Samúel Bjarnason / [email protected] Steintryggur, Mr. Silla & Mongoose, Pétur Ben and Gabriel Braun at Organ Proofreader: Jim Rice Ganging Up 18 Royal Fortune and Benny Crespoís Gang at Organ Press releases: [email protected] CD, Book and Film Reviews 19 Submissions inquiries: [email protected] Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Outside Reykjavík General inquiries: [email protected] Across the Country in 40 Days 22 Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg 2 The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be info. reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although Listings B2 the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that all information inside the magazine is correct, Food Reviews B10 prices and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Shopping B12 Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around road Iceland Airwaves: The Final Countdown B14 #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres. Sequences Real-time Art Festival B15 You may not like it, but at least it's not spon- sored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies.

From the Editor’s Chair

Let’s keep this short and sweet. The Iceland Air- not the image that you are presented with in tour elves.” This is bullshit. In this issue I discuss the mat- waves festival is upon us. For us at the Grapevine, guides and travel ads. Let’s get one thing straight. ter with professor of folkloristic, Terry Gunnell, who this is pretty much like Christmas in October. By far, Iceland has its set of problems, much like any other recently surveyed Icelanders attitude towards elves the best weekend of the year. This issue, we bring nation. As a country, we battle pollution, poverty, and and other supernatural beings. Turns out that 8% of Airwaves Special you some of the artists who will be playing this injustice. More importantly, I do not know anyone the population believes in elves. Hardly an other- Mínus + Mr. Silla & Mongoose + Bloodgroup + Ben Frost + Þórir years festival. Our resident Airwaves specialist gives who eats rotten shark more than once a year, and I worldly figure. you a rundown of bands you should not miss. Don’t don’t know anyone who claims to believe in elves. Spot perpetuating the myth! forget to read the Grapevine Guide to the Airwaves Somehow the myth that Icelanders believe in elves, types. It might come in handy for you, especially if every single one of us, has refused to die and this Enjoy Airwaves. you are a tourist. bothers me to no end, especially since Icelanders

The Lonesome Traveller is Out and About • Going Vegan in Svið-land • Ragnar Kjartansson Finds God I am sometimes asked about my editorial poli- tend to perpetuate this myth themselves, every time Awakening the Couch Potatoes • Icelanders and their Elves • Sequences Art Festival

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 16 // Oct 5 - Nov 1 2007 cies. I usually tell people that it is my goal to present they talk to a foreign person. “Ah, but yes! Of course, people with an image of Iceland the way I know it, I believe in elves. Everyone in Iceland believes in On cover: Mínus Photos by: GAS 04 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Letters Sour Grapes !!! (US), múm, Bloc Party (UK), Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].

Hi Iceland, Hi, American Citizen leaves homeland until Bush leaves office I recently visited Iceland (which I like immensely) and picked Has passport but no place to live up a copy of The Reykjavik Grapevine. Chromeo (CA), Deerhoof (US), Auctioning himself to international bidders of the world Just to say that, as a visitor, I liked it very much. It manages You might think I’m crazy, but I’ve decided to leave Amer- to balance the fine line between something that is informative ica until George Bush leaves the Whitehouse. I’m so desperate but readable at the same time. to get away from George W. that I’m selling myself on eBay to the highest bidder. It’s my way of sticking it to the administra- Thanks for a good experience J. tion and speaking out for a way of life which many Americans Frank Tompson Mugison, Trentemöller (DK), still hold dear. I prefer a country with healthcare, clean air and drinkable water. A country where “Evolution,” “Liberal,” and “Kyo- Dear Frank, to,” aren’t dirty words. A country where free speech isn’t viewed Good to hear that you liked our city, even better that you liked as unpatriotic dissention by the status quo. I demand to have a our publication. You are obviously a man of considerable intel- President that leads and makes decisions without first consult- ligence. of Montreal (US), GusGus, ing the Bible and his personal version of Jesus Christ. Editor To the bidders of the world: What you are bidding on is the right to have and house your very own 30-year old American dissident for the period of one Hello,dear Sir/Madam: month. I plan on asking the world to give my homeland an- I would like to know about: education, marriage ,child care, other chance as we both turn the page on this failed admin- baby culture in iceland, costume cultures, folklores and other The Bronx (US), Mínus, istration. With any luck I’ll become a traveling disaster for the related thidngs to the people of far-fetched and perhaps neat current administration. If I can somehow draw their warmon- and health-giving Iceland. Moreover i am eager to find girl ger attention and distract them, we can save the world a lot of friends from iceland. if you could help me to write me back pain. I don’t think Bush will invade your country for housing about some sites or people who would like to make friend me, but you never know. He may classify me as a WMD, bypass and maybe have a travel here in my country and stay for a Lay Low, Buck 65 (CA), the United Nations, destroy everything, surge, and then leave while do not hesitate to do so as a great favour to me. thanks a while patting himself on the back. lot for your assistance and attention. Amiina, Ampop, Annuals (US), Benni Hemm Hemm, Bonde do Role (BR), Changer, Good luck bidding, yours Hussein Haji Citizen X Cut off Your Hands (NZ), Dikta, The Duke Spirit (UK), FM Belfast, Forgotten Lores, http://www.myspace.com/usacitizenx Dear Hussein Haji, http://www.usacitizenx.blogspot.com Eberg, Friendly Fires (UK), Gavin Portland, Ghostigital, Grizzly Bear (US), Hafdis Try reading the Grapevine. Search the back issues and you wil Dear Citizen X, find all the info you need on costume cultures and baby cul- Huld, Heavy Trash (UK), Hjaltalín, I Adapt, Jagúar, Jakobínarína, Jan Mayen, Jeff Who?, Will you clean, cook, and take part in general household chores tures, and what ever other cultures fit your needs. Heck, there during your stay? If so, I would be more than happy to spend a is even an interview with a folklorist in this issue. I hope this Khonnor (US), Jenny Wilson (SE), Kira Kira, Lali Puna (DE), Late of the Pier (UK), small amount of money to bring you over. I would even apply was of some help to you and good luck finding an Icelandic for a permanent resident pass for you. Think bigger, forget about girlfriend. I recommend you try the websites www.einkamal.is Leaves, Loney, Dear (SE), Motion Boys, Ms John Soda (DE), My Summer as a Salvation Bush, man, lets work out some kind of deal where you do all my and www.barnaland.is. dirty work, in the name of world piece. Soldier, Ólöf Arnalds, Pétur Ben, Plants & Animals (CA), Ra Ra Riot (US), Retro Editor Editor Stefson, Reykjavík!, Seabear, Sign, Singapore Sling, Skakkamanage, Skátar, Sprengjuhöllin, Steed Lord, The Teenagers (FR/UK), Ultra Mega Technobandið Stefán, Ungdomskulen (NO),

/7oi, > 3 Svanhvít, 1985!, Æla, Alræði Öreiganna, Asli, Atomstation, Audio Improvement, B. Sig, Ben Frost, Benny Crespo’s Gang , Bertel, Best Fwends (US), Beteley, Biogen, Bloodgroup , Bob Justman, Bobby Breiðholt , BonSom, Bootlegs, Borko, Boys in a Band (FO), Brain Police, Búdrýgindi, Cliff Clavin, Cocktail Vomit, Computer Club (UK), Coral, 9^c^c\dji4 Dark Harvest, Dimma, DJ Kalli, Detect (FR), Djezus, Dr. Spock, Drep, Dýrðin, Ég, Eilífur, Electroll, Elíza, The End, 8]ZX`djidjg Enkidu, Envy of Nona, Esja, ET Tumason, Ewok, Fabúla, Fjallabræður, For a Minor Reflection, Foreign Monkeys, bVcn[ddY Frost (NO), Future Future, The Ghost (FO), Grasrætur, Fluokids (FR), Gordon Riots, Gossi , Hairdoctor, Helgi Valur & The She-males, Hellvar, Hestbak, Hoffman, Hooker Swing, Hraun, Jack Schidt, Jezebel, Johnny & The Rest, gZk^Zlhdca^cZ Johnny Sexual, Jónas Sigurðsson, Kalli, Kasper Björke (DK) , Kenya, Kimono, Klassart, Lada Sport, Leaf (SE), Leópold, Lights on the Highway, Mammút , Mala & Sgt Pokes (UK), Markús Bjarnason, Martyn (NL) , Mental Overdrive (NO), Miri, Momentum, Mountain Zero, Moonbootica (DE), Morðingjarnir, Mr. Silla & Mongoose, The Musik Zoo, Múgsefjun, Motorfly, Naflakusk, The Nanas, Nilfisk, Noise, Nr. Núll, O.N.E., Óli ofur, Orang Volante / Panoramix, Our Lives, Original Melody, Patrick Chardronnet (DE), Perfect Disorder, Pikknikk, Plúseinn, Póetrix, Prinzhorn Dance School (UK), Perla, President Bongo (GusGus DJs), Radio LXMBRG (SE), Rafhans 021, Raychem, Receptors (US), Retron, Rökkurró, Rhondda and the Runestones, Roxy Cottontail (US), Royal Fortune, Rúnar Þórisson, Sam Amidon (US), Samúel J. Samúelsson, Sesar A, Severed Crotch, Shadow Parade, Shogun, Sickbird, Single Drop, Slow Club (UK), Smoosh (US), Snake And Jet’s Amazing Bullit Band (DK), Social (SE), Solid Gold (US), Sólstafir, Sometime, Soundspell, South Coast Killer Band, Stafrænn Hákon, Stairplex (FR), Stereo Hypnosis, Strigaskór nr. 42, Subliminal, Sudden Weather Change, Sverrir Bergmann, The Telephatetics , Terrordisco, The Tremolo Beer Gut (DK/SE), Theatre Fall (SC), Thor, Thundercats, Tied & Tickled Trio (DE), Tim Pogo (US) , Toggi, Tonik , Trassar, Úlpa, Valgeir Sigurðsson, Van of Two, Védís, Vicky Pollard, The Viking Giant Show, VilHelm, We Made God, Weapons, Who Knew, Worm is Green, Wulfgang, XXX Rottweiler, The Zuckakis Mondeyano Project.

TÓNLEIKASTAÐIR MIÐASALA BAKHJARLAR Armband á hátíðina kostar 7.900 kr. í 17 - 21 October 2007 Listasafn Reykjavíkur - september, og hækkar eftir það í 8.500 Hafnarhús, Gaukurinn, kr. Það veitir aðgang að öllum tónleikum hátíðarinnar. Airwaves armband fæst í NASA, Lídó, Organ, verslunum Skífunnar (Laugavegi, Kringlunni & Smáralind), BT á landsbyggðinni og á » midi.is. SAMSTARFSAÐILAR Grand rokk, Barinn Framkvæmd Iceland Airwaves 2007 er í höndum Hr. Örlygs í samvinnu við Icelandair & & Iðnó. Reykjavíkurborg. LLL#C:#>H Auk þess munu fleiri viðburðir og tónleikar fara fram í Fríkirkjunni, Bláa lóninu, Norræna húsinu, plötuverslunum, » www.icelandairwaves.com. kaffihúsum og börum í miðborginni. » www.myspace.com/icelandairwaves CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh 06 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Interview

Professor Terry Gunnel surveyed Icelanders attitude towards the supernatural. Photo by GAS Special offer

Elves in Cultural Vocabulary

Terry Gunnel is a professor of Folkloristics at the that belief has changed very little. There is a little lightened European country like everyone else. “Really, we are dealing Unicersity of Iceland. He recently initiated a survey bit more doubt than there used to be, but generally Now, in the last few years, after having pushed the to explore how Icelands’ attitude towards elves and the figures were much the same as they were. When sagas and pushed the nature for tourists, the image with a kind of cultural vo- other supernatural phenomena have have changed we get to elves, the figures were very similar. People that is sold has changed, from Björk onwards; it since a similar survey was conducted over thirty are more doubtful, but a large percent of the coun- seems that nowadays weirdness is attractive. cabulary; a way of talking years ago. try are open to them and they certainly won’t deny Yes, I would claim that Björk and Sigur Rós that they exist. are responsible for this image, at least up to about experiences that Perhaps you could start by describing the How does Iceland compare to other countries a point. study? in these matters? Yes, and the Sugarcubes of course. Einar Örn told happen to all of us.” Over thirty years ago, in 1974, there was a survey I wouldn’t be surprised if you’d find similar num- foreign journalists about mating festivals in Iceland. done by Professor Erlendur Haraldsson at the bers in Ireland, especially West-Ireland. There I It is probably because people like Einar realised psychology department here. What Erlendur was know there are places in the hillsides [so-called that this made the nation look different. People are doing at this time was essentially taking a look at raths] that people would never go to in the dark attracted to weird. You stand out in crowd when people’s experiences of the supernatural and their because of connections with the fairies. You might you are weird; you are allowed to do what ever you belief attitudes. The figure that came out of this sur- find other parallels in the Scottish Islands. Maybe like if you are weird. Coming back to the elves, of vey attracted quite a lot of attention from abroad, Northern Norway, but the Scandinavian countries, course, this image sells. Folklorist Árni Björnsson Discounts on day tours especially figures to do with belief in elves and except for Finland, tend to be very doubtful. There has stated that this is nothing but a tourist belief. suchlike figures. 10% of people said that the exist- is a long history of pietism and strong Lutheran That is, that this apparent Icelandic belief in spirits ence of such figures was out of the question, 7% influences that have tried to kill these beliefs off is just a way of selling the country to tourists. But said they were certain they existed, 17% said they in the past. But I think you would find similar sorts the figures from the survey don’t suggest that. Really, had no opinion, but then you have 33% in the mid- of beliefs there maybe twenty or thirty years back we are dealing with a kind of cultural vocabulary; 5% discount for 1 daytour dle who said it was possible that they existed. in the countryside. But what is different here is this a way of talking about experiences that happen to This is what started the attention. Every year, openness to the supernatural world. We have to be all of us. We are not surprised today when children I tend to get people to this country from Italy and wary, though, about using the word “believe”, be- talk of having imaginary friends, all children have France and other places, who believe that here cause it could be picked up by foreign papers who imaginary friends, but the vocabulary that was used they are going to find a country full of people who will then certainly say that all Icelanders “believe” back then was that these were elves. Certainly, as I 10% discount for 2 daytours see elves dancing around every rock, wearing na- in elves. The title of my lecture that I will give in De- say, you won’t find Icelanders saying ‘I believe in tional costumes. You even have an artist here who cember is “There Is More Things in the Heaven and elves”, but here is a test I often tell foreign journal- believes people still have sex with elves. The key Earth, Horatio”, which is what Hamlet says to Hora- ists to try when they come here. Ask an Icelander thing it is not so much that Icelanders’ believe in tio after seeing his father’s ghost in the play Hamlet. this question: ‘imagine you are going to build a hot 15% discount for 3 daytours these figures, but they are open to them. I think this is very much the Icelandic attitude. And tub in your garden. The problem is that there is a But, this was 30 years ago. I was getting a lit- it is not very surprising really, when you think about big rock where you want to put the hot tub and you tle tired of answering questions about a study that how your house here can be hit by something you need to blow it up to put in the tub. Then some one was done so long ago, and I felt that in view of the can’t see, even destroyed by something you can’t tells you, ‘don’t, that is an elf rock’, will you blow it Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions way Iceland has changed in that time we should see, because of earthquakes. You turn the tap and up?’ And this is where people hesitate. It is not so do a new survey to see if the same attitudes existed, boiling hot water comes from it from the earth be- much that they won’t say they do believe, it is that sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, this time doing it on behalf of the Folkloristics de- neath that looks on the surface pretty placid. You they won’t say they don’t believe. Our brochure is available partment. We are growing and developing into new look at the sky and you see incredible Northern I see what you are getting at, but then you are Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. areas and underlining the fact that folklore is not Lights, created from nothing. You have pitch dark- referring to some instinct that is imprinted at all major hotels and just a thing of the past, but still lives a very good life ness in the countryside still; you have people pretty into you from childhood. amongst the people of the country. close to the old tradition. In some senses, Iceland Of course, it is cultural. This has also been argued guesthouses. We got the Social Sciences Institute to send only came out of the Middle Ages in around 1940. that rather than belief that it is something in your out a survey to 1500 individuals in the autumn of These numbers are often used by Icelandic culture that affects your behaviour. This is what be- 2006, asking basically the same questions as those companies in marketing, they push this image lief is all about, be it Christian attitudes or wearing asked by Erlendur in 1974 and some new ones. We of Iceland as a place of great mysticism where trousers rather than skirts. This is a part of inherited got back about 660 answers. It was thus question- everybody believes in elves. Foreign journal- culture that we follow. We use the vocabulary that able what these answers said about the nation as ists talk about what a large percentage of the is given. a whole. It could very well be that it was just peo- people believe in elves and so on, so there ple who are very interested in the subject that an- exists this stereotype of Icelanders as peo- Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 swered. So, we asked all the students in folkloristics ple who are in touch with the nature and the here at the university to pick ten random individu- supernatural. And this bothers me because I als of varying ages and place of residence to do the don’t know anyone who claims to believe in survey and make sure they answered. This meant elves. that we also heard from people who might not have Of course not. Very few will say immediately that answered first time around. What we got from these they “believe” in such, but they won´t deny it ei- new 325 answers was exactly the same figures as in ther… As regards national image, certainly, they the random study. This suggests to us, although you find the “elf image” quite attractive nowadays. It can never be certain, that the first survey should be wasn´t so in the past. Icelanders got very upset in trustworthy as an overview . the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries when for- Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] So what were the general conclusions of the eign writers seemed to consider them as country survey? bumpkins who believed in elves and spirits. They What comes out of the survey largely is first of all wanted to underline that they were a modern, en- 08 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Opinion

I am Going For a Cup of Coffee

The sun doesn’t knock on the door of this old barbershop, it rushes Minutes later, when I pass the beautifully placed City Hall, the its way in here through several windows. All I see from my desk, re- people around me seem to vanish in the opposite direction. They’re gardless of what I want to see, is the narrow landscape of dirt on the slowly drawn backwards in the periphery, like flies to old food. Sur- thin piece of glass separating me from Grettisgata – formations of dirt, prisingly alone, I discover the old graveyard, where I find a whole which enter my mind by the warm hand of this bright light. The sun is bunch of the 1 450 people that lived here in 1860. everywhere, and yet, all I do is trying to ignore it. A sign tells me that the great variations of plants are rare for Ice- land. I wonder if the plants are getting some nourishment from down Here are two examples: under, since they aren’t getting any oxygen from the visitors. (My only The glossy paper of the cheap book I bought at the airport is shining company is a cat with dead eyes.) back at my eyes, keeping them from focusing on the small ink letters Just like my furniture rearrangement, our habits are drawn away of the novel and I’m forced to reorganise the furniture. And during from things that we cannot deal with, towards…for example a cup of my much needed thirty minutes for lunch, a very disturbing warm coffee and a “been there done that” kind of friend. breath of the sun is giving the supposedly cold milk a couple of extra And just like the narrow landscapes on my window, the pen- degrees. dulum of my newly made friends here seems to be taking place up These lines are written during a completely normal, sunny Fri- and down the very same road of nothingness. New York, Stockholm, day in September. The air is clear, the harbour noisy, and a friend of a London and Paris has a Kaffi Barinn, they have drugs, clumsy cars and friend is playing guitar at a random place on Laugavegur tonight. As I second hand shopping. But no other city has a graveyard like this one, said – normal. or steaming rising water from the ground. Not to mention the amaz- I’m reading ”The Book of laughter and forgetting” by Milan Kun- ingly beautiful background scenery known as Esja, which I heard of dera, and as the warm milk has started its temporary rest within my only once from a citizen in a tale of a drunken runner. Viktor Banke hails from Skåne, Sweden. He currently body, I’m in a chapter about the blackbirds, and how they fled the Later this Friday, I find myself in one of this cafés, with one of lives in Iceland where he is working an a book. nature for the cities somewhere around the eighteenth century, all these friends. As I watch her dipping that little spoon in her cup over over Europe within just a couple of years. and over again, obviously dull, I curse the blackbirds for their stupid It hits me that the unfriendly gestures towards the bright enemy move. Seconds later, answering the question of whether she’s been to in my house are as easy to find if I step outside. And as I sit here think- Esja or not, her surprised face tells me everything. ing, I can’t but help to see that this humble apartment symbolises It tells me to stop asking those stupid questions and of course something larger, perhaps every modern city. she hasn’t. And the key phrase: why should she? I’m leaving my desk for a nice and quiet walk through my new Why indeed. home town, walking along Laugavegur towards (for me) unknown The home blind people of the world are settling for a Starbucks environments. The cars are everywhere, and they aren’t ashamed of society without any great adventures. Bored to my bones I walk home themselves. Clumsy four wheelers slowly flood the street, making the again. A friend of a friend is approaching, looking really depressed. potentially so beautiful main street into a land of nothingness. Or What’s bothering you, I ask, and he sums up this text perfectly should I say a land of everywhere, and therefore nowhereness. for me: I can’t stand the midday sun without my sunglasses, it gives me To be home blind is to ignore the unique charm of one’s own headache. I’m going for a cup of coffee, wanna join me? city and its people. And as I tried to ignore the penetrating sun some time ago, the people of Reykjavik seem to be focusing on things that Text by Viktor Banke you’d find in every capital of the world, instead of the surrounding ever so astonishing phenomenona that are constantly knocking them on their shoulders.

The Grapevine Guide to the Airwaves Personalities

Since this is a special Airwaves preview issue, it is only fair to use this trends. Has a talent for smooth talk and will sell his soul to sign a hot space to prepare some of the citizens and tourists here in Reykjavík for band. Most easily told apart from musicians when he pays for their what they can expect. During the festival, the city will be overtaken by drinks at the bar. Often heard saying things like “Put this on a single a creepy lot of people, collectively known as the ‘music industry.’ Some and it will ship 30,000 units.” Extremely untrustworthy, do not turn your of them are rather friendly, while others are quite dangerous. You should back on them. know the difference. To this service, I have put together a short guide that will help you recognise the different types, and the usual dos and Record Label Executives don’ts. Lords of the ‘industry.’ Usually started their career in A&R, but have Reykjavík worked their way to the top with schemes and betrayals. Most often International The Agent seen at expensive restaurants, often in company with a megastar, pro- The most obvious telltale sign of the agent is the mobile phone. He is tecting their investment, or with lawyers discussing anti-piracy laws. Film always in a hurry between places, usually bars, with a phone attached Typical attire is Armani suits, but will wear Hugo Boss Jeans with a La- Festival to his ear. Often does not know if he is coming or going. His phone vo- gerfeld sportcoat when dressing down. Often heard on the phone with cabulary seems limited to phrases like “need gig, yesterday!” or “need their stockbroker. Extremely dangerous, especially to downloaders. a road crew, pronto!” Usual attire is a dirty leather jacket and broken glasses. Sometimes seen holding contract papers. The manager is Industry Associates Reykjavík International Film Festival most likely to be spotted lurking around A&R people or running after Group of people associated with various industry events, usually record label executives. Relatively harmless, but highly confused. sponsors and/or marketing types. Always attend invite-only cocktail parties to rub up against famous people. Easily recognizable by deer- The Rock Journalist in-headlights facial expression whenever someone brings up music Sveinn Birkir Björnsson edits the Reykjavík Very often wannabe musicians, who lack the talent to play the game, in a conversation. Often give spirited lectures about market-based Grapevine. He is also a keen observer of people. 27. SEPTEMBER but consider themselves to know more about music than the musi- economy, but only in a group of other industry associates, typically cians themselves. Constantly engaged in an intellectual one-up man- waving a glass of white wine around. Harmless, but boring. ship with other journalists over who likes more obscure bands. Will typically say things like “Lately I have been fixated on the Anthology Groupies 7. OCTOBER by The Clean, and that whole 80s New Zealand pop scene that sur- A group that more or less reflects the gender ratio of musicians in o, rounded them, like The Bats, The Pin Group, Bailter Space.” Inescap- only three times as big. Often wears few items of clothing. Found at bars, ably nerdy looking. Harmless, but highly opinionated. backstage, or where there is a good party. May or may not be looking for husband/wife material. Will usually know the name of everybody in 2007 The Rock Photographer the band except for the drummer. Typically heard say things like: “Hey, The duties of the rock photographer are usually minimal (as opposed are you in a band?” Usually harmless, but simple. Fierce when provoked, to everyone else on this list,) so he is usually seen hanging around and willing to fight off other suitors to the prey. Ticket sales at www.riff.is bars, drunk, and talking loudly. More often than not, photographers consider themselves to be more important artists than the musicians, Musicians and often take offense to being labeled as a part of the industry. They Claim to be artists, but are usually in it for the drugs and the sex. Rare- Please visit our information centre at Hressingarskálinn, are easily recognized by their insistence on dressing down for every ly spotted in daylight. Always broke, but proud of not having sold out occasion, so he/she will always be the worst dressed person in the their artistic integrity. Will sign any piece of paper handed to them, Austurstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík room, and more often than not, wearing shorts. Will yell: “Get out of the and regardless of artistic integrity are eager to cash in. Often seen in frame!” every time you step in their path. Dangerous when drunk, but company with groupies, A&R people, and sometimes agents. Vocabu- usually sleeping when he is not. lary limited, but often heard talking about groupies, sex, drugs, and/ or monitors. Sometimes even doing sex and drugs upon monitors. A&R People Harmless, but often sleepy. The Chameleon of the industry. Always looking for the next big thing. Likes to blend in with musicians and will mimic ongoing fashion 10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Article Listasafn Reykjavíkur Reykjavik Art Museum Imported organic juices at a local organic store. Photo by GAS

31 August – 21 October The Icelandic Love Corporation 8 September – 4 November Gjörningaklúbburinn Eggert Pétursson

Hafnarhús Kjarvalsstaðir Vegan Iceland? Open daily 10–17. One admission ticket is valid for three days As regular Grapevine readers will know, Iceland is them into Iceland. Jan and I had carefully chosen The Bread Challenge Free entrance on Thursdays. in Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundur He informs us that this not the best place for vegetarians. But newcomers items we thought might be difficult to get in Ice- As our imported supplies run low, we start relying Sveinsson Sculpture Museum. and old Reykjavík hangabouts alike may be inter- land, and things which carry the maximum value more on Icelandic food. To be more accurate, we very Icelandic concoction ested to know just what challenges their animal and for weight: yeast powder (a must for B vitamins), start relying on food bought in Iceland. We were environment friendly co-travellers face. vegetable-based bouillon, organic peanut butter, disappointed to learn that so many products are of putrefied shark meat various seeds, nuts, and dried fruits, dried organic imported, and as long as they are allowed to make My friend Jan, a strict vegan, and I, a strict vegetar- soya curds (high protein!), various organic beans, the long ship journey from Denmark, why are tour- had the advantage for the ian or relaxed vegan (I sometimes eat cheese and partially dried tomatoes, etc. Now the authorities ists not generally allowed to bring in their own www.listasafnreykjavikur.is [email protected] Tel +354 590 1200 Fax +354 590 1201 do not check all food labels carefully while travel- were checking us, and we knew too well that it eas- food? This would at least save a trip or two, and all Vikings that even carrion- ling – yes, I am aware of my crimes) recently under- ily exceeded the allowed amount. the diesel exhaust that this inevitably causes. took the challenge of touring Iceland while doing Luckily, Uwe’s voluntary sausage surrender, We do manage to find cucumbers and Chi- eating birds would not our best to stick to our principles about food and quickly followed by my spontaneous capitulation nese cabbage grown in Iceland, and buy it despite the environment. of 12 raw eggs the others in our group had insisted its higher price than lettuce and other vegetables touch it. As a strict vegan, Jan does not only bypass on buying in Norway, convinces the customs offi- imported from Denmark. Bread is another prob- meat, he doesn’t eat any animal products – wheth- cials of our honesty and we pass, nutritionally un- lem. While elsewhere in the world butter in bread is er meat, milk, or by-products that no one would scathed. seen as something special, try to find an Icelandic think of, such as gelatine in gummi bears. He also bread without smörlíki. In the end we settle for a has the annoying habit of reading every food prod- Icelandic Specialities nice brown bread that looks rather hearty but turns uct label intensely, and not trusting anyone about Our first few days are uneventful. Our food supplies out to be a sweet bread. It goes fine with peanut food content. Even after I assure him that the food are adequate, and the others even seem to accept butter or jam, but does not compliment soups very I have chosen for our trip is strictly vegan, he in- my cooking for the group. No one has even noticed well. sists on re-reading all labels and then asking me that I use no animal products in the food, apart With most of our food issues solved, we go on for translations of words he does not know in Ger- from Uwe, who has bought meat at the first oppor- with the last stage of our trip. One of our final stops man. The rest of our team, however, is happy to eat tunity. After each meal, he goes back into one of his is Húsavík, where we plan to go whale watching. any product that may or may not have to do with various rucksacks and travel bags and fetches his While most people would regard this as an inher- animal cruelty, environmental degradation, non- allotment of sausage. ently pro-environment thing to do, as the harmless sustainable agricultural practices, over-fishing... Another member of our travel team, Chris act of simply watching and photographing whales hell, I imagine they would happily eat endangered from England, happily eats just about anything, in- has replaced hunting and killing them, Jan is, pre- whale species or virgin nuns of Mother Teresa’s or- sisting that as long as he gets some greens every dictably, sceptical. As we read the pamphlets of two der if they were cooked with a greasy, spicy sauce, few days, he will remain healthy, regardless of the competing whale watching firms which boast of attractively packaged and available as fast food at rest of his diet. And he sticks to this philosophy as incredible sighting rates (99.1%?!?!) on their boat convenient locations. strictly as Jan and I stick to ours. He is keen to try tours, Jan’s vegan fantasy starts working, and he the local specialities, and at every stop along the insists that the whales must have been fitted with Adventures at Sea way he manages to come out of the petrol station/ radio senders to achieve this. Worse yet, he asserts, The difficulties begin already on the ferry from grocer/fishing tackle shop/kiosk (I am not describ- as the pure girth of a whale’s neck would make a Bergen, Norway, to the Faroe Islands and finally ing a variety of places, but here the versatility of radio collar as used on, say, wolves, utterly prepos- Seyðisfjörður on the East coast of Iceland. The ferry every shop in Iceland – they have taken the “one terous, any radio sender would be some sort of de- offers a splendid buffet breakfast and dinner – all stop shop” ethos to its logical limit) with some sort vice which is attached be being shot through the you can eat, as long as it’s seafood. There is also of locally packaged delicacy. In this respect he is whale’s flipper. the on-board cafeteria, which offers a dizzying ar- ahead of Jan and I, who according to our own When we ask the young man at the whale ray of sandwiches. I had no idea that bread could philosophy try to buy as local as possible, thus not watching booth about this, his eyes widen in in- be topped in so many ways, especially when all supporting the environmental damage caused by credulous surprise at our query, and he responds of the toppings are fish. Not to worry, though, I do the long distance shipping and trucking of foods, with aplomb and diplomacy (by this I mainly mean just fine with the instant noodles I smuggled with as well as avoiding multinational mega companies, that he manages not to laugh in our faces), not to me. Basically, the ferry journey has been exposed which typically are very anti-environment players mention flawless English, stating that the captain as nothing more than a clever trick of the fishing on the world stage. did once drop a radio into the water, but the whales industry board to sell off their overstocks to a cap- Sadly, much of the food labelled as organic have yet to give any response. tive audience. in Iceland is shipped thousands of kilometres from All in all, I can report that, contrary to my own Fellow traveller Uwe, however, seems to be Germany, thus defeating the very purpose of or- scepticism, it is possible to visit Iceland and main- doing just fine with the approximately 17 kg of Ger- ganic foods. Chris, though, manages to outflank us tain your vegan or vegetarian principles. You will man sausage he has brought on board. Bratwürst, at every turn, coming out of one shop in particular need to adapt, to accept a diet of reduced variety bockwürst, salami, various types and sizes of hard with something called Hákarl, which reeks of male and at times unusual combinations. You will need and soft sausage, as well as spreadable liver paté in cat urine, or perhaps something a pregnant female to learn to read Icelandic ingredients and expect a glass jar. Sausage for breakfast, sausage for lunch, moose sprays on trees to mark her territory. In any animal products lurking in unusual places. But a light sausage snack during the day, and of course, case, he informs us that this very Icelandic concoc- you will NOT need to compromise your principles after every meal, a nice bit of sausage. tion of putrefied shark meat had the advantage for by piercing, fitting with radio collars, or harming By the time we reach port in Seyðisfjörður, the Vikings that even carrion-eating birds would not whales in any other way. Uwe voluntarily and proudly gives up the remain- touch it, and he soon finds that it is equally safe from ing kilos of sausage to the customs inspectors. the rest of the team. Later he samples Svið, known as Text by Daniel Vallin He can eat no more. This is the moment we had head cheese in English, to much the same success. feared from the beginning, in fact. Tourists are We applaud his cultural sensitivity, and secretly envy only allowed to bring 3 kg of their own food with the strength of his digestive system. 12 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Article

“Have you heard about urban sprawl? It is a term for low-dense, poorly planned construction of new buildings around our towns. Big parts of Reykjavík are planned like this.” Olof Kolte explains Reykjavík city planning. Photo by GAS

Can We Do This Indefinitely?

Olof Kolte is a Swedish designer and environmental- You know, it has been said that “third-world poverty so that you won’t need to use a car. The necessity of “In the future, we need to ist. He recently gave a lecture at the Sjónlist 2007 Art is a luxury we can no longer afford.” It is true that the individual automobile should be reduced, and and Design Awards conference in Akureyri, where in these countries people are left with no choice: wise ecological planning could help us here. Most re-learn how to develop he explained his opinion that design, rather than so- environmental issues are the last thing one thinks of what has been built since 1930s is rather poor in phisticated technology, can help achieve sustainabil- about if you are struggling to feed your family. It’s its quality. Before World War II, they did not plan the products and services ity in the modern world. A Grapevine journalist sat difficult to tackle this challenge since the distribu- cities for the individual automobile as the system down with Kolte to learn how his concerns about tion of assets on the planet is quite unfair, to say of transportation, so now we have to correct it, tear with limited natural re- radical climate change, uncontrolled consumption the least. We in “the West” are extremely bad role some parts of the cities apart and construct anew. of non-renewable resources and urban sprawl make models, and we are behaving totally irresponsible But what about the architectural value then? sources in mind.” him compelled to communicate this message to in that we are selling the new rising nations our old The downtowns of many European capitals, people. technology. like Prague, are masterpieces of architecture At your lecture, you spoke about the Internet and a priceless cultural heritage of mankind. I You are a teacher, and a civil engineer, and an as the “driving force in the explosion of pro- simply refuse to understand how one can tear artist, and a designer... How did you come to ductivity” in the modern world. Is it a good or this beauty apart. think about sustainability issues? an evil from the sustainability standpoint? No, European city centres are fairly well planned. I think I came across the term as such for the first Back in history, a written word was a means of any Have you heard about urban sprawl? It is a term time when I was studying at the Royal College of activity’s organisation. You can well imagine that at for low-dense, poorly planned construction of new Art in London. We did a project there called, “A that time writing systems were used to regulate the buildings around our towns. Big parts of Reykjavík journey into sustainable furniture design,” and had division of a harvest, or to transfer messages to peo- are planned like this. There is no way that you can a lot of guest lecturers. The one who gave the great- ple, or to announce upcoming events. You could introduce a cost-efficient public transportation sys- est impression was Edwin Datchefski, he made a have passed the information to people; you could tem in this kind of urbanisation. We need to build workshop with us. At that time I really enjoyed it but have educated them, or enabled them, to make use with high density if we want to cater for good infra- never thought much about it before I started teach- of those opportunities they had not been aware structure and preserve soil. We will need farmland ing a course in packaging design at Lund University. of otherwise. But simply writing has never been as close to cities. We will have to produce food locally. I was given no instructions on how I was supposed much influential as the Internet: it’s an extremely The American author James Howard Kunstler has to teach it, so I went to study trips with my students; powerful means of communication. When used in said that “the age of the three-thousand mile Cae- you know, Lund is called the Mecca of packaging, an efficient way, it can encompass an incredible sar salad is over.” We need to re-establish regional we have a lot of packaging industries there. Once I mass of information. economic interdependencies, as regional networks became familiar with this industry, what struck me There is a famous quote from Bill Gates, one of have been totally destroyed by hypermarkets and most was that we, as consumers, don’t realise its pioneers in this field, who believed that “with the big-scale retail chains. In this time in history, there scale. But once you are in a factory, you realise how Internet, we would be able to work at home and is no excuse for letting big corporations operate on much material is being used for something seem- would not have to travel that much.” However, the the simple logic of generating “cash, full stop” deter- ingly so trivial. And that was the beginning of my development of the Internet has paved the way for mine the fate of the human kind. interest. low-cost airlines and thus exploded the number of So how are you going to make them listen? I started to read and I realised that it was not journeys by air; so instead of reducing the amount I guess it’s about education, everything comes back only the packaging industry, but rather the whole of travel it increased it. Online shopping generates to it. First, you need to inform people, and then you pattern of human activities that is affected. In the a lot of extra packaging and thus lots of waste; just can only hope that they, based on this information, future, we need to re-learn how to develop prod- think that we are only at the very beginning! On the will start to act. You must then use your power as a ucts and services with limited natural resources in other hand, email is a good aspect as it saves lots citizen, professional, political creature to influence mind. Today, most natural resources are traded as of paper used in the traditional mail. Overall, when the development. We all have to be prepared to put commodities, if you can pay the price for it, use it you introduce something new, it can be used in dif- our vote for someone who we think will create this or/and process it, and sell the product on the mar- ferent ways; everything has its side effects. History change, and perhaps not for the simple solutions ket. The consequences and the bill for the affect on teaches us that when we introduce new technol- offered by short-term thinking political opportun- the eco-system are picked up by society. ogy to solve one problem, it creates 10 new, so its ists. Unfortunately, most of the politicians today are Many destructive activities, use of ending natu- use has to be selective in order to avoid it. I know of this kind. ral resources or misuse of renewable resources, are it’s difficult to reverse the use of a technology, if We want to be optimistic, and this feature sits The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to sanctioned by nations or international agreements, people have gotten used to it. They will be upset, deep inside the human character. Generally, we many times under the blessing of “free trade”. But but it nonetheless needs to be done. should be prepared to stop using destructive tech- find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of very few people seem to care that those resources But it’s difficult to refuse just like this, almost nology such as the internal combustion engine, are limited. You begin to understand that most of impossible, I would say. I remember the same thing and scale down all of our activities. Afterwards, we Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. what we’ve been doing is really destructive. Howev- you’ve said about internal combustion engines, need to encourage developing countries not to er, what is even more important is that not only are that life can be good without them. However, we follow our path and jump over the industrial age most of the activities destructive per se, they have are so very dependent on them that if we stop us- based on fossil fuel. This can help scale down the been expanded to a global scale. ing them overnight the whole economic system environmental impact dramatically and perhaps Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really But don’t you think that the solutions you’re will collapse. Would you say it should be a gradual save us. suggesting are good enough for the developed change or a drastic jump from one condition into And will it bring us hope? Western community, but may not be suited for another? Let’s hope that we will see the starting point of the developing world? Third-world countries I would say we need a shift in the working of some intelligent thinking! Available at your nearest bookstore often cannot afford expensive solutions, be it every planning authority; they play a key role in technology or design, and in a way they are this development. In the way we plan the society, Text by Alena Krasovskaya forced to pollute… we determine what kind of transport systems we use. We need to plan densely, and with great variety 14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Previews Previews | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | 15 Airwaves Special Ben Frost

Ben Frost originally studied music in Melbourne, ist, Ben Frost is in a constant process of refining his Australia, and began making a career as a sound sound into something more internal, essential and artist in the great down under. Of course with a pure. “My music has become more of itself than Mr. Silla & Mongoose name like that Iceland was the only possible desti- of its influences. It has its own space, more whole. nation for a change of environment. He has based Not built from ten different things but from its own himself here for two years now and developed a source.” Fated by neighbouring cubicles their move on before we got this out.” solid name for himself in the local experimental Expect tracks of indefinite length, played live freshman years at the Academy of the Though neither are formally music scene. He signed with the Bedroom Commu- by amplified musicians then sculpted live through Arts, Mr. Silla & Mongoose knew they trained in music, Silla and Maggi attri- nity label, headed by Björk’s long time collaborator a laptop to his own very specific and impeccable were destined to be creative partners. bute their interest and well doing in the Valgeir Sigurðsson, and released one album under taste. The last time he played in Iceland was in Hall- After conjoining workspaces at the music world to informal training and a this label ‘Theory of Machines’, which is accessible grimskirkja. He brought six Marshall stacks into the Academy where they study visual arts, need for expression that brought them everywhere and has achieved some amazing re- church and had six equally ominous guitar play- Silla and Mongoose, Sigurlaug Gísladót- to a self-taught artistic form. “You always views across the globe. My favourite is “Arvo Part as ers thrashing away for the whole 10 or so minutes. tir and Magnús B. Skarphéðinsson, melt- have to be doing something, I think,” arranged by Trent Reznor.” I was expecting the windows to explode but with ed together their musical ventures quite says Maggi. “You try to keep yourself He outright refuses to be categorised but all sound diverted through his laptop an unexplain- literally when they were both sched- creative and find some release for it,” could for these purposes be likened to a composer able aching sound filled the space. It was sort of uled to play solo at Kaffi Hljómalind at adds Silla. “Or at least that’s sort of the or sound artist, creating an aesthetic or an all en- like a tsunami was being poured into a tiny funnel Airwaves 2005. goal isn’t it, to try to find some medium compassing environment rather than reproducing with utmost reverence and care; a truly unique ex- “The idea was to make the acts in which to be creative.” Silla also sings a specific sound or style. And he’s not afraid to use perience. sort of glide into each other,” says Silla in veteran krútt band múm, which has absolutely everything within reach to create his I tried to tease out a hint of what his set is go- of the show. “So we ended up essentially achieved some notoriety abroad and music, slamming together instruments, tones, tim- ing to be like at this year’s Airwaves but all I got was playing our entire sets together.” Slowly will be touring extensively this winter. bres, rhythms, noise and silence from opposite ends “I’d like to have 5 vocalists and a piano, but it could but surely the two started to collabo- “From my perspective it’s com- of the spectrum into beautiful and haunting com- change”. Whatever it will be you can be sure it will rate. “I asked Maggi to accompany me pletely different working as a duo, positions. Expect more of a complete experience be something you are not expecting. You can see on this Electro night I was playing,” says where in the other instances you’re created during his gigs rather than a track-by-track the show in a sort of ‘Bedroom community’ night at Silla, “and from that we got this idea that pretty much putting forth someone set. He has said that since the move to Iceland, he Iðnó on Thursday the 18th, along with some other maybe he would be on my record, but else’s material. I don’t feel a great bit of has noticed some dramatic changes in his music. artists from the label. that ended up being kind of pointless difference between being alone and Travelling halfway across the globe has pro- because we were working and collabo- being onstage with Maggi,” says Silla. vided his music, unsurprisingly, a more isolated Text by Nick Candy rating so much on each other’s material. “I think we have the same kind of quality. That is, isolated from genre borrowing, struc- So we just decided to be a band.” creative freedom as if we were alone,” tural considerations, and other influences that have Two years later almost to the day, says Maggi. “It’s just been working in- previously tainted his unique vision. Like every art- Mr. Silla & Mongoose are releasing their credibly well, all our ideas flow.” first record, Foxbite, on Airwaves week- Read a review of Mr. Silla & Mon- end via the newly formed label rafraf. goose’s recent concert at Organ, page “We’re really just about to explode as 34. Mr. Silla & Mongoose will play Friday far as putting this out there and starting night of Iceland Airwaves 2007, 20:00 at something new,” says Maggi. “We started NASA. this record shortly after we met,” adds Silla. “We’ve found it quite difficult to Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir

Þórir

“Sometimes, I think it might be fun to be in just one with an out-of-tune guitar and I can’t really sing, and band, and focus on that,” says young musician Þórir. singing about very personal stuff, I thought people “But the reason I am in so many bands is that you would shut this out.” His next album is scheduled form a band, and then the others don’t have time for release in two months and will be distributed to do anything for two months and then you have by Cargo Records. “I recorded this album by myself. to form a new band to keep occupied.” I just did it on my laptop in my room,” Þórir explains Þórir will probably be this year’s Airwaves “I had some difficulties. My laptop crashed and I busiest performer. He is a member of three bands lost all my recordings. Eventually though, I had 45 that play during the festival. His solo project My songs ready, and I chose 12 for the album.” Summer as a Salvation Soldier, the hardcore out- Despite the name, Deathmetal Supersquad fit Gavin Portland, and finally Deathmetal- Super has little to do with death metal. Originally, the squad, which will play during the Nordic House band started as a project between two friends who special program on Saturday. “I haven’t finalised the played simple folk punk on an acoustic guitar and schedule yet, but so far, I will be playing eight shows a drum kit. The most recent line-up features a bass in four days.” player as well, and a third friend who was simply Gavin Portland’s debut album, Views of Dis- added so they could spend more time together. tant Towns, met with great reviews last year. Follow- “The point with Deathmetal Supersquad was never ing the release and their performance at last year’s for it to be a real band. It was just for us to be able played a rather small venue and the place was recorded them ourselves.” Airwaves, Kerrang! editor Paul Brannigan offered to hang out together, because we were not playing almost packed,” says singer Lilja. Hallur continues: The band’s intense live gigs have earned them the band a slot on a Kerrang! mini-tour of the U.K. together in any other band. We just decided to add “We were really surprised about the turn-out as we quite a reputation. “I just want to have fun and flip in support of post-hardcore legends, Hell is for He- him as well. He has never played bass before.” The Bloodgroup haven’t released an album yet.” “We also played at a out on stage,” explains über-energetic frontman roes. “He sent us an email and asked us to come on band is working on an album that will be released gay-club,” adds Lilja. “That was a crazy gig. Jens took Lilja. “I never really thought that we would become tour. This was not a big deal really. Basically, there is early next year and plans for a tour are underway. his shirt of and some mad girls started groping him. something, let alone release an album, so my goal just one person in the U.K. that likes Gavin Portland. So, which project does he enjoy the most? What started out as a one-man project in the east- Bloodgroup plays powerful and funky rock- That was just insane.” was always just to have fun and make every single It is just a coincidence that he is the editor of Ker- “When it comes to pure fun, I’d say Deathmetal Su- fjord town Egilsstaðir some two years back has influenced electro-dance-pop. Over the past two Up until now, their party-thirsty fan base has show be the best concert we had ever played. That rang!.” persquad because the only point with that band is quickly transformed into the more engrossing acts years, their music has evolved, the sound developed had to settle for listening to songs on the band’s hasn’t and will not change.” Þórir’s solo project, My Summer as a Salva- to have fun together. If we don’t feel like rehearsing, of the Icelandic music scene. Raggi, one of three and more instruments, synths and samples added Myspace site or attending their awesome live Bloodgroup will play the Iceland Airwaves fes- tion Soldier stands in stark contrast to the abrasive we just go out for a pizza or listen to records and siblings, took the computer he had used as his key to the mix. They recently included a fifth member, concerts, but that is all about to change. Blood- tival this year and promise a kick-ass performance. Gavin Portland. Lo-fi and emotional melodies, usu- we never play shows unless it is something we en- instrument out of the closet and got his younger DJ Benni B-Ruff, which they say spices things up groop’s debut album, ‘Sticky Situation’, is finally To warm up for the festival, two gigs are already ally strummed on an acoustic guitar by the singer, joy.” sister Lilja and her Faroese boyfriend Janus to back even more. ready and will hopefully be released by the end lined up. On October 5 they will perform at NASA although a band sometimes backs him. As a solo him up. The third and oldest family member, Hal- The five-piece had just returned back from of the month. “The album contains 11 songs, both and open up for Skátar at Organ the next day. artist, Þórir has toured extensively, including a trip to Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson lur, didn’t want to be left out of the party and soon Berlin, where they performed twice at the Pop- old ones from the time we had just started writing SXSW and all over Europe. “I never thought this was joined the group. They called themselves Blood- komm festival, when the Grapevine caught up music together mixed with new ones,” says Hallur. Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson music that many people would accept. I show up group. with them. “These were some great gigs. First we “We wrote most of these songs this summer and 16 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Feature Feature | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | 17

“We don’t even know what we are doing when we are doing it. But we will reveal something new at Airwaves.”

Mínus – Reinventing the Formula

Following the release of their fourth album last Artistic Differences he had been pegged for the spot long before the right now. At this point we really don’t care about spring, rock outfit Mínus came close to breaking When pushed on the subject of their differences, ultimate decision was made, which is something anything else that is happening other than our- up as the band chemistry turned sour. After much Krummi maintains that it was never about any one they strongly deny: “This is not something that selves.” speculation about the band’s future, Camp Mínus person. Rehearsals were difficult, and no one put we had decided before the band split up. But I re- announced that two members, bass player Þröstur in the extra effort to try to come up with new riffs member when the three of us started to discuss New Music and guitarist Frosti, would not continue with the or new ideas. Bjarni adds: “Towards the end, eve- replacements, he came to mind early on, since Krummi: “We don’t care about the Icelandic mu- band, but the remaining three members would con- rything we did just smelled of cock. That was not he knew all the songs and the band, and was a sic scene right now. It has been very difficult to get tinue to work together under the Mínus name and exactly a situation we wanted to be in.” good friend of ours. I had seen him play bass with people to come to rock shows the last few years. recruited a new bass player to fill out their line-up. As it turns out though, some band members another band called Astara, which was a good There is not much going on, so bands just don’t I had a sit down with guitarist Bjarni and singer had less of a disagreement than the others. “Bjarni retro sounding band. He was a good bass player want to be stuck in the same old tracks. It’s no Krummi to find out what was going on and where and I, we listen to the same kind of music,” Krum- and I enjoyed watching him, so he came to mind fun to play a gig in some stinking bar downtown the band was heading. mi states. “We are both fans of old ’60 and ’70s mu- quickly,” Krummi says. and be paid in beer and ten people show up. It is sic, prog rock, blues, jazz and Southern rock, and Mínus put the offer on the table, the only very difficult to be ambitious under those circum- “People were just growing in different directions, Bjössi as well. We work very easily together, and way they know how, apparently. “He thought we stances. But, we don’t give a fuck. We just want to as often happens with bands that have been going pick up things from one another, how we want had come to beat him up when we approached be able to play music together, make records and at it this long,” says Krummi when we get to the things to sound, while Frosti is more into new mu- him first,” Bjarni says. “Yeah... he was working and tour, and be able to laugh and cry together. We subject of the departed band members. “There sic and finding new bands, instead of listening to we stormed in and asked him to come outside to just want to push the boundaries like we did when was little creative spark when we rehearsed and retro music. There were never any real differenc- have a word with us. He turned white,” Krummi we were making Jesus Christ Bobby, to explore it was difficult for us to go into our practice space es; there were just different tastes. I could relate to adds. new things.” and play together like we used to do. The most Bjarni and Bjössi when I was speaking about mu- They gave him a day to think about their of- Say what you want about Mínus, but they logical step was to split the band really. We had sic, while could not do that as well with the others. fer. He said yes. have undeniably always had the ‘take no prison- to create a fresher atmosphere to be able to write Even if we managed to write great songs for the “The good thing was that he said from the ers’ approach when it comes to making music. together and have everybody on the same page last album and worked together, that was the last start that he didn’t want to be a session player in The band has developed from the straight aggres- in rehearsals. This was the only way to go really, goodbye, working together on that record.” the band. He insisted on being a full member. He sion-ridden hardcore band we first heard on Hey other than just break up the band.” Apparently, this subject is still approached wanted to be a part of the song-writing process, Johnny! To the grinding progcore sounds of Jesus This summer, rumours suggested that this with diplomacy and care. It doesn’t take much to which I thought was very ambitious,” Krummi ex- Christ Bobby to the cock rock elements of Halldór was exactly what would happen: the band was notice that the band’s chemistry was not good. plains. Laxness to the more experimental hook ridden about to fold, due to irrevocable differences be- But it is not exactly difficult to read between the rock sound of their latest offering, The Great tween members. According to Bjarni, the rumours lines either, and conclude that there are still unre- New Direction Northern Whalekill. So, in times when everything where not far off-base: “That was pretty much solved issues. I last saw the band play on September 6. Given, seems new and fresh to them, what comes next? Is how we felt at the time. This was the only solution the circumstances were special, a fundraiser there a new album in the pipelines? for us to keep on going. This was a step that we New Member event for a local musician who passed away from “We haven’t done much, yet,” Krummi ad- needed to take in order for us to evolve. Just so we The three reaming members approached Future leukaemia only days later. However, the band mits. “We just need to lock ourselves inside some- could get that feeling back that we wanted to hang Future’s singer Sigurður Oddson to join the band showed a new side to them with an experimental where and not play any live shows for a while and out together and create music together. That had as a bass player. They sound genuinely pleased approach that received mix enthusiasm from the really concentrate on song writing. But what we been missing for four years” with their new member, and when talk turns to crowd. This year’s Airwaves festival, the band, an have been making, that’s not even going to be When the news finally broke, that two him, they smile and look almost fatherly. Here is established metal act in the past, will not be play- songs man, it is going to be an adventure, a trip.” members of the band would head off in a differ- a full transcript: ing their usual slot on the Kerrang stage, but will Bjarni chimes in: “It is like nothing you have ever ent direction, everyone involved approached Grapevine: How did you end up hiring Siggi? rather join bands like !!! and Jakóbínarína on the heard before.” the subject with great diplomacy. The move was Krummi: “We have known Siggi since he was a Clash Magazine stage. Is this a band in the midst When I ask them to expound on this thought explained by citing “creative differences” and a teenager.” of a rebirth? a bit, they sound a little unsure of what direction tight lid was kept on what had gone down behind Bjarni: “Siggi came to the first show we ever “Well, that is unavoidable I guess. When you they are heading in themselves. “It is just concep- the scenes. “No one will ever hear the full story played in Laugardalshöll.” lose two pieces from a five piece band,” answers tual and very progressive rock,” Krummi says. of what happened,” says Krummi, hinting that the Krummi: “He was 13 or 14 years old.” Bjarni. Krummi adds: The Kerrang night is great “We don’t even know what we are doing when we split might not have been as peaceful as originally Bjarni: “Asking for autographs.” entertainment. Just a cool metal night. The Bronx are doing it. But we will reveal something new at suggested. “Obviously, there was some resentment Krummi: “In a broken voice, if his voice was even are playing, a really cool punk band, so it is good Airwaves.” at first, that is natural. But heals such wounds. This broke at the time?” fun. The thing is, we are just tired of being put into was all done in a brotherly manner,” he continues, Bjarni: “No, no.” one corner and play metal nights. When we were Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson while Bjarni adds. “We decided to treat each other Krummi: “He had just moved home from Canada, doing hardcore music, we were doing alternative Photos by GAS with respect, instead of fighting.” where he lived for a few years.” music for that genre. Very artistic, mixing many So, was this a mutual decision? Bjarni: “And spoke with an American accent.” different styles. We just don’t want to be pigeon- “You could say that,” says Krummi. Krummi: “He came to all our shows. He even put holed. We’re just glad to be able to play a different “Eventually,” adds Bjarni. up a website for us. He is very clever, you could kind of night. It is just fun to be able to change it “Eventually it was a mutual decision, and see that at once. He thought a lot about music and up a bit.” everyone walked away content, so everything is made the T-shirt for us and he was our first real Kerrang nights aside, the band makes no OK, and we are not enemies or anything like that,” fan in Iceland. Then he just sort of grew up with secret about their desire to change things up. says Krummi. “Bjarni, [drummer] Bjössi and my- us from that time.” Krummi: “What we want to do, to be honest, is to self, we want to work as professional musicians, Bjarni: “He has played in many bands that have reshape the band, make a new record and forget Þröstur and Frosti did that for awhile as well, but played with us.” about the old stuff. We just want to move forward. everyone had started to go off in a different direc- Krummi: “Yes, and he has developed into a very We will always have this catalogue of songs, but tion, both in musical tastes and musical creation. good musician and artist.” we want to look ahead.” This was the most logical conclusion.” As pleased as they sound about their new And, perhaps justifiably, given their recent band member, it would be easy to imagine that turmoil, Bjarni adds: “We have nothing to lose Info | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 info. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings · Eating, Drinking and Shopping · Map plus Iceland Airwaves: The Final Countdown · Sequences Real Time Art Festival

above Yes, you guessed it, it’s that time of the year again; Iceland Airwaves (B2 & B14) B2 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Listings Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | B3

Music Art The Danielson Family in Concert Iceland Airwaves Photography Exhibit On October 5, the experimental U.S. The concerts are organized by the vens, Deerhof, and Why? and their music Since its inception, Iceland Airwaves Grapevine will present a special exhibit lected Airwaves artists, as well as movie indie-rock group Danielson will per- Reykjavík International Film Festival in is sometimes described as something has been the most photographically of the best photos of past Airwaves fes- screenings and an “Airwaves Brunch” form at Fríkirkjan Church. The band was connection with the screening of J.L. Sufjan Stevens might sound like if he documented non-geological phenome- tivals at the Nordic House. Curated by during IA2007, so it’s definitely a must- founded in the late 1990s when the ec- Aronson’s documentary ‘Danielson: A went completely nuts. Seeing them play non in Iceland. Every night of every fes- veteran Airwaves photographer Árni Tor- visit. centric bandleader, Daniel Smith, got his Family Movie’ which documents the this small, intimate venue should there- tival, hordes of agitated photographers fason, the exhibit (as well as a branch of four siblings and their friends to play band’s strange history and addresses fore be a memorable event. rush out, cameras in-tow, to try to snap the fabled “Punk Vs. Diskó” installation”) Friday October 12–Sunday October 21 some songs together for an art project. issues such as their Christian faith and as many snappy snaps of the perform- will be open throughout the duration of The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, They have made music together ever family ties. October 5 ing artists as their flashcards will fit. This the festival. The Nordic House will also www.nordice.is since and released records under vari- Danielson has worked closely with Fríkirkjan Church, Laufásvegur 13 year, Iceland Airwaves and the Reykjavík feature intimate performances by se- ous quirky band names. bands and musicians such as Sufjan Ste- Tickets at www.midi.is &*#HZeiZbWZg¶'*#CdkZbWZg'%%,

If you would like to be included in Fri 19.10 DJ Gulli Ósóma The Duke Spirit. Starts at 20:00. / DJ Pósthússtræti 3-5 Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue 23:00 the Grapevine listings, free of charge, Sat 20.10 DJ Biggi Monitor Andrea Jóns Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Programme: Bedroom Community: Ben Sat 13.10 Gay-Dance with DJ Páll Óskar. contact the Grapevine by email at Fri 26.10 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Venue Programme: Lister, Celestine, Frost, Sam Amidon (US) and Valgeir Starts at 00:00 Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk†`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: [email protected]. Sat 27.10 DJ Gulli Ósóma Programme: Jóhann Kristinsson, The Ice, Me, the Slumbering and Napoleon. Sigurðsson. From 16:00 / In Gumbo Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 02.11 DJ Benni End and Cliff Clavin. Starts at 21:00. / DJ Starts at 20:00 release party: DJ Kasper Björke (DK), DJ Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Sat 03.11 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Andrea Jóns Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Trentemöller (DK) and DJ Jack Schidt Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Barinn Fri 26.10 DJ Rod Programme: Ten Steps Away, Doddi, (IS) From 23:00 Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Music Laugavegur 22 Sat 27.10 DJ Andrea Jóns Levenova and Narfur. Starts at 20:00 Fri 26.10 DJ Thor Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 05.10 DJ Peter Parker (1 floor) / DJ Fri 02.11 DJ Mikkó Hressó Sat 27.10 DJ (TBA) Fri 02.11 Concert: Funk-band Jagúar. Kvikindi (2 floor) Sat 03.11 DJ Andrea Jóns Austurstræti 20 Laugardalshöll Starts at 23:00 12 Tónar Record Shop Sat 06.10 DJ Shaft (1 floor) / DJ Ernir Domo Fri 05.10 Troubadours Alexander and Engjavegur 8 Sat 03.10 Concert: Ný Dönsk. Starts at Skólavörðustígur 15 (2 floor) Þingholtsstæti 5 Örvar / DJ Bjarni Sat 13.10 Concert: Megas and 23:00 Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Wed 10.10 DJ Skeletor Wed 10.10 Concert: Fnykur – Samúel Sat 06.10 Troubadours Public / DJ Senuþjófarnir. Starts at 21:00 Organ Venue Programme: Rökkurró and Gavin Thu 11.10 Triangle Production Jón Samúelsson Big-Band Bjarni Sat 27.10 Concert: Rúnar Júlíusson Hafnarstræti 1-3 Portland Fri 12.10 DJ Skeletor Wed 17.10 Concert: Other Trio Wed 10.10 Oktoberfest and Big-Band. Special guests include Fri 05.10 Concert: Lee Hazelwood Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Sat 13.10 DJs TaTaTa (1 floor) / DJ Ási Wed 24.10 Concert: Það sem Thu 11.10 Octoberfest Bubbi Morthens, Björgvin Halldórsson, Tribute: Performances include Der Venue Programme: Khonnor (US), Ólöf Don Disco (2 floor) hverfur (Egill Ólafsson, Ragnheiður Fri 12.10 Octoberfest: Menn ársins / DJ Magnús Kjartansson, Baggalútur, Shady Sturm, Megasukk, Ólöf Arnalds and Arnalds and Plants and Annuals (CAN) Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Gröndal, Sigurður Flosason, Kjartan Maggi Owens, Doktor Gunni, Gylfi Ægisson, Óttarr Proppé, Singapore Sling and Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Valdemarsson and Mattías M.D Sat 13.10 Octoberfest: Troubadours Hermann Gunnarsson and Larry Otis Unun. Starts at 22:00 Programme: Snake and Jet’s Amazing Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Hemstock) Alexander and Örvar / DJ Maggi Lídó Sat 06.10 Concert: Skátar, Bloodgroup Bullit Band (DK), Singapore Sling and Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Egilshöll Fri 19.10 Concert: Dalton / DJ Maggi Hallveigarstígur 1 and Auxpan. Starts at 22:00 / DJ Maggi Annuals (US) Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fossaleyni 1 Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Legó Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Thu 25.10 Plötusnúður Ríkisins Wed 31.10 Concert: Italian singer and Programme: Media Center Wrap-up Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Wed 10.10 Saving Iceland concert: Kilo Programme: Ólafur Arnalds, Lost in Fri 26.10 Hugsandi Danstónlist (1 music producer Andrea Bocelli party featuring Solid Gold (US) Starts Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 the Great, Tveir leikmenn, Authentic, Hildurness and Reykjavík! floor) / DJ Ásar Logi (2 floor) Fríkirkjan at 22:00 Mál & Menning Hraun, Dys and Jan Mayen. Starts at Café Amsterdam Sat 27.10 Groovebox / Beauty and the Laufásvegur 13 Fri 26.10 Troubadours Alexander and Laugavegur 18 21:00 Hafnarstræti 5 Beat’s Fri 05.10 Concert: Danielson from the Örvar / DJ Maggi Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Thu 11.10 Concert: Dúkkulísurnar. Fri 05.10 Concert: Bergur and Pétur Café Hljómalind US. Starts at 21:00 Sat 27.10 Concert: Tepokinn jazzband Venue Programme: Mikael Lind, \7oi Starts at 21:00 Örn from Buff and Rúnar from Sixties Laugavegur 21 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 / DJ Maggi and Sprengjuhöllin. Starts at 17:00 Fri 12.10 Concert: Skakkamanage. + band Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Iðnó Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Starts at 21:00 Sat 06.10 Concert: Bergur and Pétur Venue Programme: Doddi, The Gaukurinn Vonarstræti 3 Venue Programme: Jónas Sigurðsson Sat 13.10 Concert: Motion Boys / DJ Örn from Buff and Rúnar from Sixties Diversion Sessions and Rökkurró Tryggvagata 22 Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 and Seabear. Starts at 17:00 Lazer + band Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 12.10 DJ Sesar Programme: Ask the Slave, Reykjavík! Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Programme: Retro Stefson and Ólöf Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Sat 13.10 DJ Sesar and Lada Sport Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Kaffibarinn Arnalds. Starts at 17:00 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 19.10 Concert: Dimma + guests / DJ Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Bergstaðastræti 1 Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Master Programme: Snake and Jet’s Amazing Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- Programme: Mr. Silla & Mongoos eand Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Sat 20.10 Concert: Sign, Atómstöðin + Bullit Band, Morðingjarnir and Gavin Tue 23.10 Concert: Alabama hop and classic dance hits, the DJs are FM Belfast. Starts at 16:00 Wed 31.10 Concert: Ólöf Arnalds and guests / DJ Master Portland Thunderpussy. Opening acts are Brain usually capable of crowding this frisky Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Ólafur Arnalds. Starts at 21:00 Austurbær Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Police and Zodogan. bar every single night of the week. Programme: Babar and Skakkamanage. Prikið Snorrabraut 37 Venue Programme: Brat Pack, Dys, The Wed 24.10 Concert: Alabama Fri 05.10 DJ Lazer Starts at 16:00 Bankastræti 12 Fri 12.10 Sprengjuhöllin release Deathmetal Supersquad and more Thunderpussy. Opening acts are Brain Sat 06.10 DJ (TBA) Naked Ape Fri 05.10 Troubadours Public / DJ Gulli concert. Starts at 21:00. Café Paris Police and Zodogan. Fri 12.10 DJ CasaNova Bankastræti 14 Ósóma Babalú Austurstræti 14 Grand Rokk Sat 13.10 Nuno Lx Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Sat 06.10 DJ Danni Deluxe Skólavörðustígur 22a Every Friday and Saturday night DJ Smiðjustígur 6 Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Programme: Live acts and DJs Wed 10.10 DJ Ernir Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Börkur and DJ Lucky play soul and Fri 12.10 Concert: Innvortis, Severed Venue Programme: DJ Thor. Starts at from 17:00 – 20:00 Thu 11.10 DJ Anna Brá Programme: GUM, Joana, Indigo and funk. Crotch and Hostile. Free entrance. Starts 22:00 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Fri 12.10 Danish troubadour Martin Brynjar. From 14:00-17:00 Dillon at 22:00 Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Programme: Live acts and DJs from Hoeybye / DJ Árni Sveins Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Laugavegur 30 Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Venue Programme: Snake and Jet’s 17:00 – 20:00 Sat 13.10 DJ Gísli Galdur Programme: Open Mic/Stage. Starts at Fri 05.10 DJ Mikkó Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Amazing Bullit Band (DK) at 17:00 / DJ Nasa Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off 14:00 Sat 06.10 DJ Andrea Jóns Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Alfons X and DJ Magic at 22:00 by Austurvöllur Venue Programme: Rock and bacon Bar 11 Fri 12.10 DJ Rod Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Fri 05.10 Warm-up for Iceland Airwaves: morning with Hookerswing. Starts at Laugavegur 11 Sat 13.10 DJ Andrea Jóns Háskólabíó Programme: Bedroom Community: Motion Boys, Bloodgroup, Ultra Mega 10:00. Fri 05.10 DJ Biggi Monitor Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off At Hagatorg Greg Haines (US), Nico Muhly (US), Teknóbandið Stefán and Foreign Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Sat 06.10 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Venue Programme: Atómstöðin Thu 01.11 The Icelandic Symphony Grizzly Bear DJ Set (US). From 16:00. / Monkeys. Starts at 23:00 Admission fee Venue Programme: Rock and bacon Fri 12.10 DJ Biggi Monitor Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Orchestra: Europa Musicale DJ Casanova, Chris Tabisz (DE) and DJ is 500 ISK. morning with Cliff Clavin. Starts at 10:00. Sat 13.10 DJ Gulli Ósóma Programme: Singapore Sling, Elíza and Hitt Húsið Alfons X. From 00:00 Sat 06.10 Concert: Stuðmenn. Starts at Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue B4 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Listings Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | B5

Christopher Taylor www.turpentine.is Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Belleville Sep 29–Oct 13 Ásgrímur Jónsson, Birgir Andrésson Laugavegur 55 Paintings by Pétur Thomsen Bragi Ásgeirsson, Curver Thoroddsen, Oct 12–Oct 21 Oct 12–Oct 21 Daníel Þ. Magnússon, Dieter Roth, Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Katrín Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Birta Einar Hákonarson, Erró, Gabríela Pétursdóttir Young Guðjónsdóttir, Helgi Már Kristinsson, Friðriksdóttir, Georg Guðni, Harpa CIA (Centre for Icelandic Art) Jón Gunnar Árnason and Riceboy Árnadóttir, Hreinn Finnsson, Hulda Hafnarstræti 16 Sleeps Hákon, Icelandic Love Corporation, Oct 12–Oct 21 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Roni Horn and many, many more. Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Katrín Gerðuberg 3–5 The National Museum Friðriksdóttir Mon.–Thu. 11–17 Suðurgata 41 The Einar Jónsson Museum Wed. 11–21 Open daily 10–17 Eiríksgata Thu.–Fri. 11–17 natmus.is/ Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Sat.–Sun. 13–16 Permanent exhibition: www.skulptur.is www.gerduberg.is The Making of a Nation Upcoming concerts Permanent exhibition: Sep 22–Nov 11 Sep 9–Jan 27 The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Paintings by Guðmunda S. Extraordinary Child The Culture House Gunnarsdóttir Photographs by Mary Ellen Mark and the unfinished THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18TH @ 7:30 PM Hverfisgata 15 Sep 22–Nov 11 Ívar Brynhólfsson, artwork by students symphony Conductor ::: Eva Ollikainen Soloist ::: Sigurður Flosason Open daily 11–17 Design and the Handicraft Tradition in Öskjuhlíðaskóli and Safamýrarskóli, Carl Nielsen ::: Symphony nr. 4 “The Unextinguishable” www.thjodmenning.is Works by 34 designers, artists and and a documentary by filmmaker Franz Schubert ::: Symphony nr. 8 “Unfinished” Permanent exhibitions: craftsmen Martin Bell. Veigar Margeirsson ::: Saxophone Concerto (World Premiere) Medieval Manuscripts; The National The Gray Cat Sep 27–Oct 21 evergreens THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25TH @ 7:30 PM Museum – as it was; The Library Room; Hverfisgata 16a The Virtue Blanket

Conductor ::: Esa Häkkilä The Road to Zion; Berlin Excursion Oct 12–Oct 21 Exhibition featuring the works of Soloist ::: Alison Balsom Works by Piazzolla, Smetana, Rossini, Holst, Sibelius, Bach, Current exhibition: Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Doug product designer Marý Ólafsdóttir Haydn, Wagner, Rachmaninov and Mozart Surtsey – Genesis Henderson Oct 12–Oct 21 family series SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27TH @ 5 PM The exhibition traces the emergence i8 Gallery Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Julia – pyjama party Conductor ::: Esa Heikkilä and evolution of the island Surtsey Klapparstígur 33 Kissina Works by Björn R. Einarsson, E. Humperdinck, G. Gershwin, until the present day and predicts Tue.–Fri. 11–17 The Nordic House H. Berlioz and Mozart its geographical and ecological Sat. 13–17 and by appointment Sturlugata 5 europa musicale THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1ST @ 7:30 PM development over the next 120 years. www.i8.is Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba Dead Shop Sep 13–Oct 27 www.nordice.is/ Soloist ::: Bryndís Halla Gylfadóttir Atli Heimir Sveinsson ::: Icerapp 2000 Laugavegur 29 One Hundred Paintings Oct 12–Oct 21 Carl Nielsen ::: Aladdin suite Oct 12–Oct 21 Eggert Pétursson exhibition Iceland Airwaves Photography Exhibit Jón Leifs ::: Geysir Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Oct 12–Oct 21 Past Airwaves highlights Jón Nordal ::: Cello Concerto Maurice Ravel ::: Bolero Art Hafsteinn Mikael and Jón Sæmundur Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: The Numismatic Museum Auðarson Hanna Ch. Sigurkalsdóttir Kalkofnsvegur 1 now listen! FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2ND @ 9 PM Dwarf Gallery KronKron Open Mon.–Fri. 13:30–15:30. a concert for Conductor ::: Rumon Gamba young audiences Igor Stravinsky ::: Rite of spring Nordic Contemporary Portraits Grundarstígur 21 Laugavegur 63b Free admittance. (16-30) Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18–20 Oct 12–Oct 21 Permanent exhibition: ‘Portræt Nu!’, a unique Nordic group ex- and 62 of them chosen. The artists were Kristjánsdóttir, Helgi Gíslason, Kristveig www.this.is/birta Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Siv The Central Bank of Iceland and the tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is hibition, has just arrived in Iceland and encouraged to illustrate the great diver- Halldórsdóttir, Magdalena Margrét Kjar- Oct 12–Oct 21 Støldal National Museum of Iceland jointly or tel. 545 2500 will be displayed at the Hafnarfjörður In- sity of the term ‘portrait’ and what it can tansdóttir, Sesselja Tómasdóttir and Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Laugardalshöll operate a numismatic collection All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. stitute of Culture and Fine Art. The exhibi- include. By doing so, they engaged with Sigrún Eldjárn. The exhibition opens at Auxpan and Sara Björnsdóttir Engjavegur 8 consisting of Icelandic notes and coins. tion features contemporary portraits that a wider audience and gave the public 17:00 on October 13. Gallery 100º Oct 12–Oct 21 Regnboginn Cinema fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra were part of a Nordic portrait competi- an opportunity to become acquainted Bæjarháls 1 Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Snorri Hverfisgata 54 WWW.SINFONIA.IS tion, launched by the Danish Museum of with contemporary Nordic portraiture. October 13 – December 22 Oct 12–Oct 21 Ásmundsson Oct 12 – Oct 21 National History at Frederiksborg Castle Several Icelandic artists were chosen to Hafnarfjörður Institute of Culture and Fine Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Liborius Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: in 2006. 541 artworks were submitted participate. These include Dodda Maggý Art, Strandgata 34, www.hafnarborg.is Mader Stubilic Wiermann Laugavegur 7 Screenings by Hafsteinn Gunnar Gallery Art-Iceland Oct 12–Oct 21 Sigurðsson, Huldar Breiðfjörð, Jóhannes “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Skólavörðustígur 1a Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Darri Atli Hinriksson, Kristján Lomfjörð, Programme: Rock and bacon morning Mix. Starts at 00:00 Oct 5 – Oct 19 Lorenzen and Shoplifter Marthe Thorsaug, Sigtryggur Berg Don’t miss it! with Rass. Starts at 10:00. Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Paintings by Charlotta Sverrisdóttir Living Art Museum Sigmarsson, Bjarni massi, Carsten 10 COMMANDMENTS Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Programme: Moshi Moshi record label Art Gallery Ágúst Laugavegur 26 Aschmann and Anna Lind. OF MENTAL HEALTH Programme: Rock and bacon morning presents: Best Fwents, Slow Club and Baldursgata 12 Wed., Fri.–Sun. 13–17 Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 with XXX Rottweiler Starts at 14:00. Moshi Moshi DJs. Starts at 21:00 / Jack Wed.–Sat. 12–17 Thu. 13–22 Aðalstræti 16 1. Think positively; it's easier Wed 24.10 DJ Ernir Schidt and special friends. Starts at 101 Gallery www.galleriagust.is www.nylo.is/ Open daily 10–17 Thu 25.10 DJ Jóna Ladycats 00:00 Hverfisgata 18 Sep 29–Nov 10 Oct 6–Nov 4 Permanent exhibition: 2. Cherish the ones you love Fri 26.10 DJ Gunni Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Thu.–Sat. 14–17 and by appointment The Neutral: In Motion Ragnar Kjartansson The Settlement Exhibition 3. Continue learning as long as you live Sat 27.10 DJ Benni B-Ruff Programme: DJ Ezus vs. SkelEtor. Starts www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Hulda Stefánsdóttir exhibition We have been told that this exhibition Reykjavík Art Museum Q-bar at 23:00 Sep 9–Oct 10 Oct 12–Oct 21 will be awesome. It will be Mr. – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture 4. Learn from your mistakes Ingólfsstræti 3 Skífan Record Shop Tokyo / Reykjavík Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Kjartansson’s largest solo exhibition Museum 5. Exercise daily; it enhances your well-being Fri 05.10 Nightmare at Q-bar: DJ Laugavegur 26 Photographs by Japanese photographer Guðrún Kristjánsdóttir, Hildigunnur to date and is done in co-op with the Sigtún 6. Do not complicate your life unnecessarily Stæfhund Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Takashi Homma. Birgisdóttir, Ólöf Helga Helgadóttir, Austrian museum TBA21. Open daily 10–16 Viking feasts every night Sat 06.10 Beauty and the Beats Venue Programme: VilHelm, Hjaltalín Oct 12–Oct 21 Unnur Mjöll S. Leifsdóttir and You zie The Lost Horse Gallery Admission ticket is valid for three days 7. Try to understand and encourage those around you Wed 10.10 DJ Ingvi and Pétur Ben. Starts at 17:30 Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: sook Skólastræti 1 in all three museums. 8. Do not give up; success in life is a marathon Thu 11.10 DJ Beatur Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Gunnar Örn Tynes and Sara Riel Gallery Fold www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse.html Free entrance every Thursday. - live entertainment Fri 12.10 DJ Gísli Galdur Venue Programme: Johnny & the Rest, 3 Floors Rauðarárstígur 14–16 Current exhibition: www.listasafnreykjavikur.is 9. Discover and nurture your talents For booking and further information: Sat 13.10 DJs Maggi Felix and Kalli. B.Sig, Lay Low, Sprengjuhöllin and Boys Laugavegur 60 Mon.–Fri. 10–18 MOM’s exhibition (Guðmundur Mar 31–Dec 31 10. Set goals for yourself and pursue your dreams Tel.: +354 565-1213 Wed 17.10 DJ Ingvi in a Band. Starts at 16:30 Oct 12–Oct 21 Sat. 11–16 Hallgrímsson, Friðrik Svanur Folk Tales www.vikingvillage.is Thu 18.10 DJ Þórir Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Sun. 14–16 Sigurðarsona and Schuyler Jack Maehl) An exhibition of works by Icelandic [email protected] Fri 19.10 Gullfoss og Geysir Programme: Hafdís Huls, Computerclub, Jacqueline Torres www.myndlist.is Oct 12–Oct 21 draughtsmen who took on the task

Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Sat 20.10 DJ Shaft Jakobínarína and Mugison. Starts at Aðalvideoleigan Sep 29–Oct 14 Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: of illustrating folk tales from the oral GUTENBERG 31215 Wed 24.10 DJ Ingvi 16:30 Klapparstígur 37 Painings by Þorsteinn Helgason Goldie, Wyh, IMA, Chulo, Nores, Agez tradition. Thu 25.10 DJ Beatur Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Oct 12–Oct 21 Gallery Gel and guests, Unnur Andrea Einarsdóttir Apr 2–Dec 31 Fri 26.10 DJ Impulce Venue Programme: Sign, Lada Sport, Sally and Mo Hverfisgata 37 and Ósk Gunnlaugsdóttir The Shape of Life Sat 27.10 DJ Eva María and DJ Birna Bloodgroup, Radio LXMBRG and Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Mon.–Fri. 13–18 The Naked Ape A new retrospective of the works by Reykjavík Art Museum Motion Boys. Sarts at 16:30 Installations by Elín Anna Þórisdóttir Sat. 11–16 Bankastræti 14 Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Hafnarstræti 16 Sun 21.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue and Þóra Gunnarsdóttir Sun. 14–16 Oct 12–Oct 21 focuses on abstract works from 1945 Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Programme: Múgsefjun, Hraun and Artótek www.myspace.com/gallerigel Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: onwards. Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Shadow Parade. Starts at 16:30 Tryggvagata 15 Sep 21–Oct 12 Anna Wolf, Björk Viggósdóttir, Jóhanna Reykjavík Art Museum Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves 2007 Smekkleysa Record Shop Mon. 10–21, Tue.–Thu. 10–19, Fri. 11–19, Dulin Himintungl Álfanna Kristbjörg Sigurðardóttir, Kristján – Hafnarhús Reykjavík City Theatre Laugavegur 28 Sat. and Sun. 13–17 The exhibition consists of nine big Zaklinsky, Þórður Grímsson, Lina Bjørn Tryggvagata 17 Listabraut 2 Wed 17.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek photographs shot in Reykjavík, on and Ragnheiður Káradóttir Open daily 10–17 Tue 23.10 Sniglabandið release Venue Programme: Bertel and Sep 17–Oct 14 Snæfellsness and on Reykjanes. The The National Gallery of Iceland Aug 31–Oct 21 concert. Starts at 20:30 Skakkamanage. Starts at 16:40 The work of Þóra Sigurðardóttir photographs symbolize nine planets – Fríkirkjuvegur The Icelandic Love Corporation Sirkus Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off ASÍ Art Museum planets that have always been here, but Tue.–Sun. 11–17 retrospective exhibition Klapparstígur 30 Venue Programme: Smoosh (US), Elíza, Freyjugata 41 are normally hidden Free Entrance Aug 31–Oct 21 Fri 05.10 DJ Tommi White The Duke Spirit (UK) and Jan MAyen. Tue.–Sun. 13–17 Oct 12–Oct 21 www.listasafn.is D Gallery Sat 06.10 Lazer show Starts at 16:00 Free Entrance Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Jul 21–Oct 10 Jóhannes Atli Hinriksson exhibition. Wed 10.10 Concert: Andreas and the Fri 19.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Sep 29–Oct 21 Michael Page Alas-Nature! Aug 31–Dec31 Gloryholes. Starts at 21:00 / DJ Einar Programme: Best Fwends (US), Slow Rubbish Gallery Sævar Karl The National Gallery of Iceland’s The Erró Collection Sonic Club (UK), Bob Justman and Jenny Magnús Tómasson exhibition: A Bankastræti 7 summer exhibition features works by Paintings by Erró Thu 11.10 DJ Gunni Ewok Wilson (SE). Starts at 16:00 journey through his sketchbooks. Oct 12–Oct 21 more than 50 artists, including High Oct 12–Oct 21 Fri 12.10 DJs TaTaTa Sat 20.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off Venue Auga fyrir Auga Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Plane by Katrín Sigurðardóttir. Her work Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Sat 13.10 DJ Ozy Programme: Radio LXMBRG (SE), Hverfisgata 35 Kristín Pálmadóttir is a widely acclaimed installation for Jóhannes Atli Hinriksson, Magnús WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS Wed 17.10 DJ Biggó Bloodgroup, Steintryggur + Ben Frost Open Thu.–Fri. 15–19, Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Gallery Turpentine its revolutionary viewpoint in which Sigurðsson and Finnur Arnar Finnsson Thu 18.10 Iceland Airwaves – Off and Surprise DJs. Starts at 14:00 Current exhibition: Ingólfsstræti 5 the landscape is laid out horizontally Reykjavík Art Museum Venue Programme: Concert: Jóhann. Red Square Tue.–Fri. 12–18 on a table. – Kjarvalsstaðir News // Dining // Travelling // Shopping Starts at 21:00 / Cocktail Vomit Party Photographs from Calcutta by Sat. 11–16 Oct 12–Oct 21 Flókagata B6 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Listings Listings | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | B7

Permanent exhibition: This year, RIFF’s programme consists of Roni Horn installation. She has nearly one hundred films from across replaced stacks of books with glass the globe. For more info go to www. columns containing water gathered riff.is from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial rivers. Sandgerði Museum Movie Theatres Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. Until Feb 7, 2008 Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 Polar Adventures 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 Exhibition on the life and work of the Háskólabíó, Hagatorg French polar explorer, scientist and 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 Art doctor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. Laugarásbíó, Laugarás Jónas Viðar Gallery 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Smárabíó, Smáralind Sketchbooks Displayed Fri.–Sat. 13–18 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 Magnús Tómasson’s solo exhibition ‘Rub- extensively throughout his long career Sep 27–Oct 7 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 bish’ opened in the ASÍ Art Museum on and been an active part of the Icelandic Martin J. Meier exhibition Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 September 29. The exhibition is a jour- art scene. The exhibition is open until Akureyri Art Museum 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 ney through Tómasson’s sketchbooks October 21. Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg and displays paintings, sculptures and Tue.–Sun. 12–17 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 installations. Tómasson has exhibited ASÍ Art Museum, Freyjugata 41 www.listasafn.akureyri.is Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Aug 25–Oct 14 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 Sjónlist 2007 / Icelandic Visual Art Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 Whales& Open Daily 10–17 Eyfjörð Exhibition displaying artworks by six 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 Puffin Island Sep 8–Dec 31 Tjarnarbíó Theatre artists and art-groups nominated for the Experience Architecture at Eye Level Tjarnargata 12 Icelandic Visual Art Award (Sjónlist) Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable 3-hour Sep 8–Nov 4 Oct 12–Oct 21 this year. These are Birgir Andrésson, Ice-land trip into the world of whales and sea birds. Eggert Pétursson – Retrospective Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Dick Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir, Hrafnkell Events Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from Paintings by Eggert Pétursson, Head Man Reckords, MOM’s, Ross Taylor, Sigurðsson, Nikita, Studio Grandi and the city centre. an Icelandic artist famed for his Sara Gilles, Steypa and Tonik Össur hf. meticulous depictions of flowers. DaLí Gallery Chinese Culture Festival Easy Glacier Adventures for Everyone A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the Sep 8–Oct 14 Brekkugata 9, Akureyri Sep 29–Oct 8 third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Sculptures by Helgi Gíslason. The Outside Reykjavík Mon.–Sat. 14–18 The Chinese Culture Festival in Ice Climbing Puffin season 60170 exhibition features new works of bas- www.daligallery.blogspot.com Kópavogur features plenty of • fít • April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on relief. Skaftfell Current exhibition: interesting events including concerts, Ascension of Iceland’s Highest Peak 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 or visit MIXA Sep 15–Dec 31 Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Þetta – Das – This exhibitions, lectures on Chinese culture 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 555 3565 www.elding.is Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key Works www.skaftfell.is Hlynur Hallsson exhibition and performance by the amazing Hot Spring Hike 17:00 17:00 17:00 Paintings by Jóhannes S. Kjarval Aug 11–Nov 11 GalleriBOX Wuhan Acrobatic Troupe. For more info

Reykjavík Maritime Museum A group exhibition featuring works by Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri go to www.kopavogur.is Trekking and Backpacking Spör - Ragnheiður Ingunn Ágústsdóttir Grandagarður 8 Erla Þórarinsdóttir, Hulda Hákon, Jón www.galleribox.blogspot.com Open House at the Open Tue.–Sun. 11–17 Óskar and Steingrímur Eyfjörð Oct 20–Nov 20 Intercultural Centre www.sjominjasafn.is Hafnarborg Vivarium Every Friday night, the Intercultural Icelandic Mountain Guides Elding Whale Watching, Reykjavík harbour Current exhibition: Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Huginn Þór Arason exhibition centre plays host to an intercultural Booking and information: www.mountainguide.is - Tel: +354 587 9999 Tel: (+354) 555 3565, Fax: (+354) 554 7420 Trawlers in Iceland Mon.–Sun. 11–17 meeting. The concept is to bring [email protected], www.elding.is Reykjavík Museum www.hafnarborg.is foreigners and Icelanders together, Kistuhylur 4 Sep 13–Oct 7 and to give them the opportunity to Open daily from 10–17 Photographs get to know other people and to share www.arbaejarsafn.is Photos by American artist Denis Masi experiences. Thewriter meetings Halld r Laxness, feature www.gljufrasteinn.is Nobel Prize for literature 1955. Permanent exhibition: Sep 13–Oct 7 plenty of activities that will allow the 20 min from Reykjavik city centre Objects from Reykjavík cultural history. Wait attendees toOn stirthe way things to Thingvellir up into National a nicePark

The Reykjavík Museum Treesculptures by Aðalheiður S. cultural broth.Tel. + Entrance 354 586 8066 / www is .gljufrfree.asteinn.is æJ=ÜæI?#')$EAJã8;H(&&-#('0&& Sep 1–Oct 11 Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic Sambíóin Álfabakka, Háskólabíó, to make these old-school delicacies. Huginn Þór Arason and Tony Trehy design. Sambíóin Kringlunni, Sambíóin Akureyri The class takes place at the Hotel and B^
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&#*%%`g# Oct 12–Oct 21 Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes Háskólabíó, Regnboginn 18:00–22:00 and only costs 1.000 ISK. Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Art:21, Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Sep 3:10 to Yuma Better yet, you can take all the food you Birgir Andrésson, Ólafur Ólafsson and to May 11–17. Háskólabíó, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin make home to your friends and family. Libia Pérez de Siles de Castro, Ragna www.landnam.is Akureyri For more information call Barbara (530 Róbertsdóttir and Sara Björnsdóttir Permanent exhibitions: Stardust (October 5) 9300) or send an e-mail to barbara@ Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum The Settlement of Iceland: The Saga of Halloween (October 5) ahus.is. Laugarnestangi 70 Egill Skalla-Grímsson 30 Days of Night (October 9) Airwaves Programme at Open Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Suðsuðvestur The Kingdom (October 12) the Nordic House Permanent exhibition: Hafnargata 22, Keflavík The Brave One (October 12) Oct 17–Oct 21 Works of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Thu.–Fri. 16–18 Resident Evil: Extinction During the annual Airwaves weekend, Sirkus Sat.–Sun. 14–17 The Last Legion (October 19) a special event programme takes place Klapparstígur 38 www.sudsudvestur.is Good Luck Chucky (October 19) at the Nordic House. The schedule Oct 12–Oct 21 Sep 1–Oct 7 The Heartbreak Kid (October 19) includes a screening of the music Sequences Real-Time Art Festival: Sara Coupd’État documentary ‘Screaming Masterpiece’, Gunnarsdóttir Unnar Örn Auðarson Jónasson a photo exhibition of past Airwaves Start Art / Art Shop exhibition RIFF highlights and open interviews with Laugavegur 12b Vatnasafn / Library of Water local and international acts. For more www.startart.is Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur Reykjavík International info go to www.icelandairwaves.is The glaumbar - tryggvagötu 20 - tel: 552-6868 Sep 29–Oct 26 www.libraryofwater.is Film Festival Nordic House, Sturlugata 5 Hjörtur Hjartarson and Steingrímur Open daily from 11–17. Sep 27–Oct 7 www.glaumbar.is 1 EATING 8 30 SHOPPING 37 Pizza King DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK Cintamani Vor Hafnarstræti 18 G-Star Raw Laugavegur 11 Laugavegur 24 This small pizza place is not only cheap Laugavegur 86 If there is one thing you need in Iceland but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll it is warm clothing. In a country known Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- 13 Buying jeans used to be a simple task. get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK Hafnarstræti for rapid wheather changes, you either ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- 10 With the ever-growing selection, suc- per slice, not to mention the special come prepared, or buy the appropriate dients and a health-conscious menu that 2 cessful jeans hunting can take days. The lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three gear. Designed and developed in Iceland emphasises French and Mediterranean task did not get any easier with the re- RESTAURANT toppings of your choice and a can of to meet rugged wheather conditions, Ask for a Tax Free cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the cent addition of a store from the indus- Press reviews: Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is Austurstræti 8 Cintamani clothing has been worn on excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent try powerhouse G-Star Raw. This Dutch form & save up to 15% a local favourite. The fact it’s open until 3 17 both the North and the South Poles, as pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- brand features an edgy collection, au- .. Probably the best 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t well as on the top of Mount Everest. fee served is of the highest quality. thentic details and innovative washings. addition to Icelandic hurt either. 19 restaurant landscape 43 Bankastræti Ingólfsstræti .. Great food, 15 something new in 2 Hornið 9 Bernhöftsbakarí 11 25 31 Underground 38 Trilogia Hafnarstræti 15 Bergstaðarstræti 13 Lækjargata Veltusund 1 Laugavegur 7 Iceland, like never 38 26 37 Hverfisgata The casual family-friendly Italian-style It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city 40 Laugavegur Located in a basement by Ingólfstorg, A collection of trendy designer wear seen before 28 35 corner restaurant has operated at the in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, 44 former pro skater, Mike Carroll’s skate- fills the space at fashion shop Trilogia, Fine dining Indian same spot since 1979 when it became snacks and an extensive selection of the 21 board shop Underground is aptly named. including amazing designs by Alexander a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- 16 The shop offers all the relevant skating McQueen and Chloe alongside Robert cusine, hard to beat SPOT THIS: NASA Skólavörðustígur out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas larly love the spelt bread in the morning, 20 gear, be it clothing or boards, from in- Cary Williams, Erotokritos and many, anywhere!! and the generously stuffed calzone, the and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð Thorvaldsenstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík dustry leading brand names such as many more. Summery dresses, sweaters wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts to go with the afternoon coffee. DC, Circa and others. A wide array of and skirts for all the fashion conscious Frakkastigur 12, The cornerstone of Reykjavík nightlife, ing hours for every event, the shows and 12 27 of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian Klapparstígur 1 T-shirts, shoes, and other skating neces- girls out there as well as cool accessories NASA plays host to the biggest bands and parties tend to go on all night during the 24 tel: 551-7722 and meat courses, all very affordable. 34 sities available. to complete the look. open 17 til late the biggest parties. NASA has several bars weekends. NASA is one of many Iceland 29 www.indianmango.is inside, and with the generally late open- Airwaves venues this year.

3 Deco 10 Bæjarins bestu 7 32 Kirsuberjatréð 39 Kolaportið Austurstræti 12 Tryggvagata Vesturgata 4 Tryggvagata 19 Deco, a café and wine bar that has ev- There’s a good reason why there’s always 4 Kirsuberjatréð is the perfect little gift A trip to the downtown indoor flea mar- erything you need for a quality lunch a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- 32 shop. A co-op gallery/gift shop owned ket Kolaportið down by the harbour is café, right in the city centre. Its modern less of the weather or time of day. Select- and operated by ten women artists and always a fun way to spend a Saturday af- and stylish interiors, varied menu and ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by 18 designers. Kirsuberjatréð is the commer- ternoon. Endless stalls offering all kinds impressive selection of whiskey, draw The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- 42 39 cial outlet where they sell their products. of second-hand goods, candy and even me back again soon. Deco usually gets cades ago, it has been serving “ein með 5 22 23 The selections ranges from clothes, bas- fermented shark and Icelandic liquorice. quite crowded during the evening, when öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown 31 kets, ceramics, copper sculptures, fish If ready to spend some time thoroughly it turns into more of a wine bar than a pedestrians since 1935, making it the 41 Austurstræti skin items, paper crafts, contemporary examining the selection you can find coffeehouse. oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- 6 Ingólfsstræti jewelry, felt items, and various other some great bargains. Only open on try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. Bankastræti designs. weekends. Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 33 4 Icelandic Fish Chips 11 Quiznos 33 Vinberið 40 Nakti Apinn 36 14 Tryggvagata 8 Lækjargata 8 9 Laugavegur 43 Bankastræti 14 Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a A chain of sandwich outlets special- Tjarnargata This small boutique sells all kinds of Nakti Apinn, located on the second floor Þingholtsstræti healthy restaurant using only organic izing in toasty baguette-style subs, but sweets. From chocolate fondue mix, to at Bankastræti 14, offers an amazing va- vegetables, quality fish products and also serving soups and salads. Choose handmade chocolates, to lollypops and riety of colourful street-clothing, includ- Bergstaðarstræti 30 no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. your toppings and variety of sauces and Frakkastígur Belgian chocolate with such flavours as ing hooded sweatshirts, T-shirts and leg- WWW. Deep-fried catch of the day served with you’ll get a fresh sandwich to suit your Óðinsgata lavender and ginger. Vinberið also sells gings designed by the owners and hand- oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, taste. Ask for the lamb sub, an Icelandic Icelandic sweets, including the popular printed with different patterns, graphics a sauce made out of the fat-free milk speciality. Then put a double chocolate licorice products. A must stop for the and figures. Inside you’ll also find a good GRAPE product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts chunk brownie in your take-away box sweet toothed. selection of Icelandic music, books on of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They and you’re good to go. art and design, accessories, baby clothes VINE.IS also offer take-away at all times. Barónsstígur and international designer wear.

DRINKING News // Dining 5 Sjávarkjallarinn 12 Á næstu grösum 15 18 Glaumbar 21 Sirkus 24 Boston 27 Barinn 34 Laugavegur 28 41 Thorvaldsens Bazar Travelling // Shopping Aðalstræti 2 (First Vegetarian) Grái Kötturinn Tryggvagata 20 Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 28b Laugavegur 22 Laugavegur 28 Austurstræti 4 Laugavegur 20B In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar Hverfisgata 16a Here is a bit of trivial information: In Ice- Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- Located above the second-hand fashion Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming A fresh addition to the Laugavegur fash- Located inside a dignified wooden build- chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, Many locals claim this to be the best A small antique-style coffee house in a landic, ‘glaumur’ means the sound of a ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor quite popular among Reykjavík party ion scene, four separate stores under ing, Thorvaldsens Bazar is among the where the emphasis is not only on ocean vegetarian restaurant in town offering a Hverfisgata basement, legendary for its party. I don’t know what more you need popular among musicians and the cre- and nice sofas in the lounge room up- scenesters. Its three floors and equally one roof, second-hand clothing and ac- oldest shops in Reykjavík, opening in delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- early opening hours, amazing breakfast to know about Glaumbar, except per- ative crowd who get along well although stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the numerous bars get quite crowded dur- cessories stores Elvis and Rokk og rósir, 1901 and run by the women’s charity ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask and strong coffee that will easily wake haps that it is the premier sports bar in the breathing space can be limited on Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- ing weekends where a mix of dancing and CD experts Smekkleysa, all staples of organization the Thorvaldsen Society. is to order the exotic menu, a range of for the daily special or try the selection you up in the morning. We especially town. After the final whistle, the action weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- downstairs and chatting upstairs make the Laugavegur shopping experience. In Selling souvenirs, handicrafts, woollen courses carefully selected by the chef, of three different courses. The Indian recommend The Truck, American style on the dance floor becomes feverish as the greatest party possible every week- ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy for a good night out. Though mostly a addition, the new store, Pop, supplying underclothes and sweaters as well as Ice- and share it with your dining partners. theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the breakfast consisting of eggs, bacon, pan- local DJs take central role. end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts café as well as a laid-back tavern where DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs neat stuff for the home. The collective landic jewellery, the friendly saleswomen sugar free banana cake just one of the cakes, fried potatoes, tomatoes, syrup on weeknights. the music is good but never intrusive. and is always a fun party venue. will offer unique clothing and ornaments work as volunteers and all profits are do- highly tempting desserts. and toast. The bagels are also excellent. and supply the score to your life. nated to charity work.

6 Shalimar 13 Nonnabiti 16 Kaffi Hljómalind 19 Hressó 22 Organ 25 Café Cultura 28 Q-Bar 35 Gullkúnst Helgu 42 Fríða Frænka Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 21 Austurstræti 20 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Hverfisgata 18 Ingólfsstræti 3 Laugavegur 13 Vesturgata 3 Few places in Reykjavík match the great Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, This organic, free-trade café prides itself The celebrated site of one of the more The stylish two-floored bar and concert Located inside the Intercultural Cen- A spacious gay/straight friendly bar, the This spacious and classy store sells jew- This small boutique is a jam-packed combination of good price, excellent Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, on being a non-profit company and a famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ venue Organ presents a diverse range tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a newly renovated Q-Bar is a welcome ad- ellery made from lava and other stone. treasure chest overflowing with antique food, and fast service available at Shali- is one of the more popular junk food dedicated venue for the hardcore and café/bistro brings a European flair to the of concerts by local and international cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of dition to the nightlife downtown. In styl- Gullkunst Helgu, which is housed in the furniture and items to perk up your mar. On the menu are assorted Indian- places around, offering a large selection cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- city. That is until about 11, when things acts at least four times a week. Features events and various theme nights like ish and comfortable surroundings, with 1924 built shop on Laugevegur 13, has apartment. In every corner of the shop, Pakistan dishes and the lunch special is of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious get to rockin’, and you can see the true established bands and young emerg- Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion a lounge-like atmosphere, a good vibe been selling unique jewellery such as you’ll find some unique items, including always a great bet for a good meal dur- es and burgers with a nice dash of the soups and vegetarian dishes as well as character of Reykjavík. ing musicians; the newly opened venue parties. The menu features all sorts of and plenty of seats, the place never gets necklaces, bracelets and watches for 15 candle holders, lamps, pillows, gorgeous ing a busy day. Grapevine staffers are unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the can accommodate 300 people and has international dishes like Thai soup, Span- uncomfortably crowded nor too noisy years. 60’s sofas, tables, vases and a selection frequently spotted in the locale, which night craving there’s no need to worry, place to visit for a reasonably priced enough seats for weary concertgoers to ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with for conversation. of clothes and vintage jewellery. should be recommendation enough. Nonni is open longer than most other healthy lunch. rest between sets. Open ’til way past late bistro regulars such as sandwiches and places. on weekends. salads.

7 Sægreifinn 14 Austurlanda- 17 Segafredo 20 Kaffibarinn 23 Gaukurinn 26 Prikið 29 Dillon 36 Börn Náttúrunnar 43 Iða Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Tryggvagata 22 Bankastræti 12 Laugavegur 30 Skólavörðustígur 17a Lækjargata 2a Located right next to the Reykjavík har- Hverfisgata 64A The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Reykjavík’s version of CBGB’s, Gaukurinn This two-floor café/pub has been a part The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The children’s toy store Börn Náttúrun- The spacious Iða bookstore is a great bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- Although a little pricey for a take-away, the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown has been a mainstay in the Icelandic mu- of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. tures moderately priced drinks, a dark nar, located in a Skólavörðustígur base- source for all kinds of reading material of- rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in charging around 1600 ISK for a main facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of sic scene since the days of Ingólfur Ar- With a large and fairly cheap bistro and cosy mood and some pretty good ment, sells clothes and toys made only of fering an excellent range of books, travel the country. The menu features various course, the food is well worth that extra lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- narson. A popular live venue, this is the menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university music (especially when local favourite organic products as well as books about guides, magazines, post-cards and great fish dishes and a rich portion of the best spending once in a while. Serving typi- espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet place to find young and upcoming band, students with their laptops and elderly DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The childcare and parenthood. Here you can gift items. The first-class service will help lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with as well as older and more established devoted regulars during the day while tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang buy creative wooden playthings and you search for what you need. On the ters to groups upstairs where the room chest for those with a penchant for a way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live bands. Anyone who is anything in Icelan- the younger clientele fills up the space out there on school nights are joined by woollen products for the young ones second floor you’ll find restaurants serv- looks more like a cabin than a diner. The spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the dic music has passed through Gaukurinn during the evening and especially at legions of parka-clad students during carefully selected by the parents who ing sushi, soups and sandwiches. good food and welcoming service make side for those who choose to dine in. party doesn’t start winding down until at one point or another. weekends when the music is mostly weekends, creating a party atmosphere own the shop. this place a must-try. early morning. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in.

ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 950.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1150.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Reviews by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Oktoberfest (need we say more…?)

Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir

Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavik – ICELAND / +354 599 1000 www.saltrestaurant.is

Photo by GAS Photo by GAS 101 Bar/Restaurant Fjalakötturinn

The first thing you notice when you sit down for a meal at the 101 Address: In a historical building in the city centre, restaurant Fjalakötturinn Address: Bar is the books. Every table has a stack of coffee table books on art, Hverfisgata 10 opened a little over a year ago and has quickly made a name for itself Fjalakötturinn photography and design; books that look expensive and important. 101, Reykjavík in the downtown dining scene. The lunch buffet offered during the Aðalstræti 16 If you are looking for a place to sit and sip coffee and look at pretty Tel.: 580-0101 day has become popular among business folks in the centre while Tel.: 514 6060 books about modern culture, this place will bury the local library the diverse dinner menu attracts a wide range of diners. every single time. Reviewed by Minimalist decorations, candlelit tables and black-and-white Reviewed by As the restaurant is a part of the operations of the boutique Sveinn Birkir Björnsson photographs of Reykjavík back in the day add to the overall charm Steinunn Jakobsdóttir hotel 101, the chic interiors and attentive décor was to be expected this small restaurant has to offer. The waiter got us a table by the – very chic, and very black. There is a cold and calculated elegance window, overlooking one of the oldest streets in Reykjavík, and at work here manifested through a black theme that runs through all quickly brought us a piece of smoked eel as an appetiser. design elements, from the Eames chairs to the menu. Fjalakötturinn specializes in Icelandic raw material so fish While on the subject; the menu is a little less high end than courses, prepared in various ways, are plentiful on the menu, mixed I expected from the hotel’s de facto restaurant. This is essentially a with meat and vegetable dishes. As starters we had “Harumaki” spring bistro offering, featuring mostly common courses found at most bars rolls filled with crabmeat and served with ponzu dressing (1,820 ISK); that serve food in the greater Reykjavík area. Besides the regular array a crunchy, flavoursome and hearty dish. If you are not completely of burgers, sandwiches and pasta, the Tandoori seawolf and Bacalao starving, one portion for two should be more than enough as a with pumpkin seed were the menu highlights. starter. We started the proceedings by sharing a dish of carpaccio As a main course I was served salted cod with Israeli couscous, (1800 ISK). It tasted good, but the slices were too thick, which is a cardamom sauce and vegetables (2,950) while my dining partner turn-off when dealing with raw meat. For the main course, my partner opted for the lamb, served with potato-celery root terrine and long 9^c^c\dji4 selected the Moroccan chicken breast with couscous (3200 ISK), a beans (3,800). To complete the meal, the waiter picked out an spicy treat that I would probably opt for the next time I am there. excellent wine from the extensive list. For wine enthusiasts, it’s worth 8]ZX`djidjg Myself, I ordered the 200 gram sirloin burger (2200 ISK). mentioning that Fjalakötturinn won the Wine Spectators Award in bVcn[ddY Now, the sirloin burger is one serious hamburger. Not only is it 2006 and 2007. Our main courses didn’t disappoint. The tasty vegetable 200 grams, it is made from a ground sirloin steak. It is a huge piece mix suited the fish fine and the lamb was cooked just right, although gZk^Zlhdca^cZ of meat and, as burgers go, it is one of the better I’ve had in this town. my friend found the sauce a bit too heavy. Obviously this is reflected by the price, which is a considerably higher I’ve always been a big fan of chocolate and when our waiter than you’d expect to pay for a hamburger. But the hiked up price brought the desserts to the table I heard my stomach scream for could hardly be justified for others than extreme burger enthusiasts. joy. The dessert consisted of six types of chocolate delicacies: dark Although 101 Bar/Restaurant is more expensive than similar chocolate, white chocolate, chocolate cake, chocolate ice-cream, places in town, the extra money buys you attentive service, pleasing chocolate-mousse, chocolate soufflé. A chocolate heaven! If I would surroundings and better privacy than you will get anywhere else, but have needed a reason to come back another time, this sure was it. not necessarily better food.

We don´t serve foreigners... because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that makes you feel at home. Tel: (+354) 483-3330, Eyrarbakki - South coast

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Owned by a young couple, Bjarni and Anna, the Note: his Autumn/Winter 2007 collection is now in small store Belleville is stuffed with trendy street- store. wear designs for fashion conscious shoppers. As the shop-owners both share a strong pas- Limited-addition sneakers, skateboards and funky sion for fashion and art, Belleville occasionally host Japanese Be@rbrick bear-shaped figurines line the exhibitions by both local and international artists. shelves. The store also stocks a new jewellery col- During the Sequences Real-Time Art Festival, taking lection from Atelier 11, fashion magazines, books place at various venues across the city from Octo- and DVDs on street-culture and graffiti art as well ber 12 to 21, one of the country’s more renowned Free pickup at your hotel in the Reykjavík area. as some rare skate-videos. designers and illustrators, Katrín Pétursdóttir Young, If looking for something cool yet comfortable will exhibit some works in the shop. to wear, there are loads of stylish clothes to choose from, for both men and women. The selection in- Belleville, Laugavegur 55 cludes designs by fashion labels such as Pelican Avenue, Yuko Yoshitake and Bernhard Willhelm. Contact Info: Tel: +354 577 6050 - Fax: +354 567 9195 - Tangarhöfði 8 - www.bergcar.is - [email protected] B14 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Previews Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | B15

A proven Airwaves tactic is picking 3–5 must-sees Þóra Gunnarsdóttir and Elín Þórisdóttir exhibit and a wide variety of maybes, to be decided upon “Sally and Mo, gone with the wind.” by your feet and the amount of alcohol in your head at show time. In the immortal words of Glenn Frey: “The heat is on.” Photo by Sakri

Iceland Airwaves Countdown: 2 Weeks The Sequences Art Festival

As you may have noticed, this issue is rather heavy not the least in the fact of how well they manage The Diversion Sessions (IS) – Organ, Wed. 19:30 “We’re putting emphasis on time-based art in un- ists, directly or indirectly, deal with in their work, es- collected and meticulously detailed from the That’s 217 laboured on the Airwaves. That’s for a good reason. The festi- to convey the life, times and discourse of modern Diversion Sessions is a solo side-project of blush- “We find tourists very conventional places,” says Andrea Maack, project pecially since many of the projects are video and Smith’s 1986 album “The Queen Is Dead,” the film val is just over a week away, is already selling out Iceland. This means they might get lost on the non- ingly talented Skátar frontperson Markús Bjarna- manager for the Sequences “real-time art festival” performance installations. Þóra Gunnarsdóttir and apparently proves Morrissey’s clairvoyance… or over, thought out, over- and anyone who’s even glanced at the line-up Icelandic speaking crowd, but their presence and son. It is his venue for acoustic, laid-back stylings sexy, especially when taking place between October 12–21 in downtown Elín Þórisdóttir are two young artists responsible perhaps just that with the right amount of work, all for the 2007 edition can tell you why. Featuring charm will certainly counter that. sprinkled with higher (or more audible) doses of Reykjavík. for “Sally and Mo, gone with the wind”, a video and conspiracies can be proven true. practiced 30-to-90 minute a – frankly – ludicrously grandiose assortment of the lyrical insights that greatly contribute to Ská- they wear yellow rain “We’re encouraging artists to think outside the photographic project which will be on display at Live performances will also take place during basically everyone who’s written, recorded or per- I Adapt (IS) – Gaukurinn, Fri. 01:00 tar’s greatness. Judging by the hypnotic impromptu box and outside the gallery, and have art be visible the Aðalvideóleigan on Klapparstígur. the festival at various locations around town, in- sets of music to be sought formed decent-to-great tunes in the general vicinity Another relevant Icelandic band with a killer new acoustic set I saw him perform at a shady Aldrei ponchos.” and just all over the place, within this period of “We find tourists very sexy, especially when cluding outside at Austurvöllur, and on Laugavegur, of Iceland lately, the latest count of performing acts album out, I Adapt are the kings of Icelandic live Fór Ég Suður afterparty in 2005, you’re in for some time,” she adds. they wear yellow rain ponchos,” says Þórisdóttir of as well as in Dwarf Gallery, Laugardalshöllin, the out, experienced, fawned stood at 217. That’s 217 laboured over, thought out, music as much as they are the kings of its not-so- magical stuff at his Airwaves appearance. The festival, held for the second year in a row, the piece. “These are photographs and videos that National Gallery of Iceland, National Museum of over-practiced 30-to-90 minute sets of music to be burgeoning HxC scene. Whilst this Airwaves count- will feature more than 150 artists in more than thir- we take of ourselves when we are dressing up. Most Iceland, The Optical Studio, Reykjavik Art Museum, over or appalled by in the sought out, experienced, fawned over or appalled down has sought to spotlight only Airwaves’ new- Múgsefjun (IS) – Organ, Wed. 21:45 ty locations around town, including all of the city’s often we wear these yellow ponchos and red clown the Living Art Museum, the Reykjavik City Theatre, by in the space of five days. comers, the sheer, inspiring awesomeness of their No matter how long they’ve been putting off re- major art museums and galleries as well as unusual noses. We’re playing with clichés and boundaries, the Tourist Information Center and 101 gallery. space of five days. So, now’s your cue to plan ahead. The sched- third LP, Chainlike Burden, merits them a mention. If cording their waited-for début, Múgsefjun is still an locations such as bars, clothing shops, movie rent- exploring where the line lies. For a few nights, one lucky tree in downtown ule is available at icelandairwaves.com, as are mp3s they are even half as energetic and powerful at Air- extremely hard working bunch, and their finely or- als, hair salons, coffee shops, hotels, banks as well “Our project was an experiment with the artis- Reykjavík will change from a tree giving shadow by a majority of the artists – pictures and overly in- waves as they were when I saw them a week ago, I chestrated take on folksy pop rock provides ample as on the street. tic form, in which we set out to know as little as pos- during the day to a tree giving light in the darkness. formative bios, too. If you plan on attending, spend Adapt will reign supreme over the rest of the heavy evidence of that. Intricate melodies, subtly Buckley- The festival’s opening day will commence at sible about what we were planning to do before we The light will invite people to create a private space some time getting acquainted with what lies ahead, set – and along with Gavin Portland, the hardcore ist vocals and a playful spirit serve to make their the foot of the new music house by the east har- entered into it. But we always had a certain frame within the public space, and hopes to illustrate how and map out what you want to see and when. Be- show to see if you’re not into Hardcore. stage act memorable and entrenching. Their lack bour with a performance by Haraldur Jónsson and to work within, which was and is Icelandic nature, one influences one’s surroundings, leaving traces low are some tips. If not, then go read some other of recorded output has hindered this group from Ólöf Björnsdóttir, followed by a stop at the Living and playing with the ideas and images people have of oneself that slowly fade. The project, titled “Fly- article for a while. Buck 65 (CA) – Iðnó, Fri. 00:00 being as noted as they perhaps should be, but that Arts Museum and a tour around the various hap- with it.” vsk, In the light of the tree,” by Julie Linke Bank and Much like Deerhoof, Buck 65 is in a league of his all stands to change soon. penings and performances around town. The work on display throughout the weeklong Tatiana Lyng, is just one of many live artistic exhibi- Sprengjuhöllin (IS) – Lídó, Thur. 23:00 own, one practically handcrafted by himself. Hav- The distinction of time-sensitive and time- festival will be spread out in space and subject mat- tions that will grace the city throughout the week. Many wrote Sprengjuhöllin off as some sort of bour- ing repeatedly proved himself to be one of the Deerhoof (US) – Gaukurinn, Fri. 23:00 based art is an important focus within the Se- ter, featuring films, photographs, videos and perfor- On the weekend close to the festival there will geoisie intellectualist joke when they first started most noteworthy and innovative voices in modern Recommending Deerhoof is really only a formality. quences Festival, as the name “sequences,” an order mance art. be three Tjarnarbíó-Nights at the old movie theatre playing their partied out concerts a couple of years Hip Hop (especially its experimental branch), the They are veterans, they are the kings of their very in which related events or movements follow, im- Lars Laumann’s sixteen-minute film, “Morris- on Tjarnargata, with musical performances in the back, but they have since consistently proved to be young Canadian continues to astonish. This is con- own patented brand of indie, indie rock, and (in plies. sey Foretelling The Death of Diana,” will be shown evening and a concluding final celebration to end one of the best (and certainly the most relevant) fidently (possibly arrogantly, definitely effortlessly) some circles) command more respect than almost “The essence is that the viewer needs to give at Kubburinn at the Arts Academy between Octo- the festival on Saturday night. acts to surface in Iceland for a while now. demonstrated on his new LP Situation – likely Hip all of the bands at Iceland Airwaves 2007 put to- himself time to enjoy the work,” says Maack. “You ber 16-21, and sets out to prove that Morrissey, the Their out-next-week album, Tímarnir Okkar, Hop’s first and only concept album about the fifties. gether. There’s really no excuse to miss ‘em. see a screening somewhere and you need to give former lead singer of melancholy pop group The For more information on the Sequences festival visit is a surefire hit, and for a good reason too. Valgeir While Snow turns in a pretty good performance on yourself a little bit of time. This is the frame that the Smiths, predicted the 1997 death of Princess Diana www.sequences.is Sigurðsson’s organic production work gives their Informer, Buck 65 is most definitely Canada’s awe- festival exists within, but we’ve also encouraged the of Wales through hints embedded in his lyrics and For full listings see Grapevine info pages. well crafted pop the pivotal boost it needs to stand somest rapper, ever. artists to play and work within it.” Smith’s record sleeves and music videos. Through a out like it was meant to. Sprengjuhöllin’s genius lies The issue of time is something that all the art- montage of found film, song and video fragments Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir

Búðu til eilífðarvél með What´s on? www.getrvk.com Glitnispunktum

Þegar þú kaupir hamborgara með Glitniskorti færðu punkta sem þú getur breytt í peninga til að kaupa annan hamborgara sem þú síðan breytir í peninga til að kaupa annan hamborgara o.s.frv. o.s.frv. Þú þarft bara fyrst að skrá þig í Vildarklúbb Glitnis. Þetta og fl eiri snjallræði á:

www.verturikuralltaf.is MR. DESTINY AND THE REYKJAVIK GRAPEVINE PRESENT: AIRWAVES WARMUP AT NASA FRI. OCT. 5 Motion Boys, Jan Mayen, Bloodgroup, Foreign Monkeys, Ultra Mega Technobandið Stefán.

17 - 21 October 2007 Ticket 500 kr - Free entry with an Airwaves wristband from 23:00 ‘til late 18 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Reviews Reviews | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | 19

When the Grettir Kabaret sponsored show at Organ fill the notes, her body shifting like a soft twitch be- CD CD FILM began, the lineup was still a complete mystery to neath the microphone, her mouth hovering around me. I had managed to pick up a couple of names it like a magnet. Her voice was so full and consum- from rumours and hearsay around town, but was ing that, almost inadvertently, it grabbed you by having a hard enough time figuring out what time the little hairs on the back of your neck and thrust the show was to start. According to one of the you into the melody. The two stood there innocent band’s myspaces, 20:00, according to the venue and unassuming, Silla wearing a black and white owner, 21:00, and according to a guy who knows a striped shirt and hard blue jeans, and Maggi ‘Mon- guy who supposedly was organising the event, the goose’ a white tee with a cat on it. Inconspicuously show was starting promptly at 22:00. No ads, no info, brilliant. no buzz. Even the Grapevine had missed the finer Pétur Ben followed, unexpectedly, to me at details of this show in its listings, and when the con- least, steadily building up steam to turn his soft cert began at 22:30, I was simply relieved that it was compositions into something quite cutting and starting at all. intensive, while maintaining, beautifully enough, The enigmatic gig began, happily, with an in- a delicate edge. When his set ended, the crowd, tense sort of drum-circle by percussion veterans which had peaked for Silla & Mongoose, reached Tímarnir okkar The First Crusade Control Sigtryggur Baldursson, and Steingrímur Guðmunds- an all time low. Not surprisingly, considering it was Sprengjuhöllin Jakobinarina Director: Anton Corbijn son with Ben Frost acting as an on-stage mixer and 00:30 and that a Monday night. Or Tuesday morning resident wizard. The collaboration, called Steintryg- really. The clichéd but irresistible question of influence has been answered These teenagers have been darlings of the international music press Every music fan knows the rough outline of this story. Joy Division, a gur, was an engrossing take on “world music” jam, As I was preparing to leave and go home to in the simplest of terms on Sprengjuhöllin’s debut release, “Tímarnir for two years running now, so it is nice to see they have finally re- great post-punk band out of Manchester, was set to become the next with Sigtryggur on drum kit, Steingrímur on the bed, I was alerted to the fact that there was yet okkar.” Possibly the most blatantly culturally Icelandic pop record to leased an album to justify some of the hype. It is even nicer that this big thing until their singer, the troubled soul that was Ian Curtis, com- Photo by GAS tabla, and Frost infusing the heavy and consum- another act I should’ve been expecting. Gabriel come out in recent music memory, this album encompasses, slyly and offering goes a long way to justify some of that hyperbole. Not all mitted suicide on the eve of the band’s first American tour in 1980, ing drum symphony with an electronic edge. The Braun, a German DJ, was about to grace the wrong with ironic flair, the idiosyncratic perspective of Iceland’s Gen Y on the way, but still pretty far. Their influences are stretched widely, from 23 years of age. tables were literally vibrating with pleasure. stage at the wrong time. His thin pulsating Berlin this, its cultural era. Much like the title track, the album is an exer- surf rock to post punk, from conventional rock to modern dance mu- Control offers fans an opportunity to fill out the story board. Mr. Silla & Mongoose delicately picked up the beats were not the most welcoming sound after the cise in contemporary communication, expression that is sometimes sic. Singer Hallberg has mastered the obligatory Icelandic dialect of Based on a book by Deborah Curtis, the singer’s widow, in which she Of Men and Mongeese shivering mood. The room was sparsely filled. Their two-hour-long concert. One guy of the eight people clumsy yet delightfully un-claustrophobic, dripping with the nature English that has worked so well for the Sugarcubes and Björk in the documented their relationship, the movie’s greatest achievement per- first song began simply, heavy bass beats emitting remaining in the audience was standing and puls- of modern-day life in Iceland. With a kind of cocky buoyancy that is past. Their lyrics are funny and full of the kind of teenage angst that haps is to offer a very convincing portrait of Ian Curtis the person, from the computer infused at times with electronic ing along. Yet for me it was too late and inapt for the both endearing and slightly annoying, Sprengjuhöllin maintains the comes with feeling that everyone else is a fucking idiot. I remember rather than the musician. Corbijn never makes excuses for the man. Who: Where: When: synths and pangs and an assortment of random occasion. I was going home to my badly advertised, elusively charming balance between appreciation of the absurd and those times myself all too well. Given the band’s young age, it is easy His faults are displayed in full view without painting him as a monster, Steintryggur, Organ October 1, 2007 sounds such as juggling keys. Anchored by Maggi’s but intimately cozy and pleasant bed. the sentimental elements of the culture they are consumed by. Their to predict them success in the future, but this album at least gives us but rather a confused young man who was not the first, and hardly Mr. Silla & Mongoose, steady guitar, Silla’s mesmerising voice floated songs are self-deprecating social commentary, so emotively close-to- something to base that prediction on. If this band keeps growing, they the last, to succumb to the pressures of fame. Pétur Ben, Gabriel Braun above it all. Ten foot bear, their fifth song, was a Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir home that their charm will for the most part be untranslatable. The could realistically make something truly awe inspiring. SBB Several key figures from his life are associated with the film. twangy blues inspired ditty in which Silla’s voice distinct unabashed-ness at the heart of this album is, like our wasted Besides writing the book the film is based on, Deborah Curtis is a co- twisted and contorted, expanded and softened to generation, as fresh and fascinating as it is consequential. VÞ producer, along with Tony Wilson, the Manchester rock scene mogul, whose career was propelled by Joy Division and vice versa. Curtis’ extra-marital love interest, Annik Honoré, disclosed personal letters to director Anton Corbijn who, as a rock photographer, shot the band at The new live venue, Organ has been a pleasant Lay Low. In any case, I was excited to see them per- BOOK BOOK the height of their fame. As biopics go, this one looks to be as accurate surprise for regular concertgoers in Reykjavík. The form as it had been close to a year since last saw as possible. place runs an ambitious program, and it is pretty them in concert. The film is shot entirely in black and white, and director Corbijn much a given that you can walk in there, Wednes- Benny Crespo’s Myspace site lists their in- makes great use of his keen sense of visual aesthetics and his ability day through Saturday night and see interesting fluences as Mars Volta, Queens of the Stone Age, to portray moods. The atmospheric, grey and grainy look of the movie bands play there. Kudos for Organ! On a Thursday Sonic Youth, Blonde Redhead, PJ, Rage Against the has a lot more in common with his black and white photography night, late September, I walked in to Organ to see Machine, The Pixies, and At The Drive In, among than his music videos, the two mediums that have created his consid- two interesting bands. One was interesting to me, others; but I would say that they have managed to erable fame. His U2 series come to mind, or his shots of Elvis Costello since I had not heard them play before, the other create a sound that is undeniably theirs. The band on Amsterdam. because I had heard them play before and they im- has a new album coming out in the next few weeks, The acting is good. Sam Riley offers a convincing portrayal of pressed me immensely. and they mainly played songs from their upcoming Curtis, and Toby Kebbell drew some laughs as manager Rob Gretton; The first band to step on stage that evening release, but capped things off with the great Johnny no easy task given the gloomy subject. The grand prize, however, be- was they five piece Royal Fortune. This is a folksy Has Got a Baby. Their progressive indie sound is full longs to Samantha Morton, who is superb in the role of Deborah Cur- pop group with considerable artistic ambition, of aggressive riffs, thundering bass plots and crazy tis. about to release their first album. They brought synths that create a thick wall of layered sounds. The strength of the narrative is hidden in its simplicity. This is a wide array of instrument out on stage, most of Their drummer looks like he was built to run throu- The Giles Wareing Haters’ Club W.A.R.: The Unauthorized Biography a story of one of rock history’s most iconic figures, but instead of which they could actually play. Their music is at ti- gh a brick house and plays like a man possessed. By Tim Dowling By Mick Wall drowning it in music and references to the pop-culture of the time, mes low key and simple, almost naïveistic, but they Overall, it was great display. Corbijn quetily depicts a man who is tormented by his shortcomings shoot for overwrought crescendos that never ma- If this performance is anything to go by, Benny As Giles Wareing’s fortieth birthday draws closer, he battles mild de- It has been more than 15 years since W. Axl Rose called out Mick Wall, as a father, riddled with guilt by his shortcomings as a husband, and naged to move me. I was a little annoyed for they Crespo’s upcoming release will be one of this year’s pression and develops symptoms of gout. He lives with his wife, two former Kerrang! scribe, in his diatribe against the press on Get in the terrified by his ongoing struggle with epilepsy, using sparse dialouge came off as they were trying too hard to impress, best. I recommend you go see them live. Get in on sons, and a dog, of which he remains closest to the dog. We find out Ring, on Use Your Illusion. Now Wall has answered, and it looks as he and long shots. midi-concerts.pdf 4/11/07 10:55:30 AM Photo by GAS using too many obscure instruments to create obs- the hype early. that he is an “averagely bad” journalist, who writes free-lance for a might have the last word. Wall was one of the first journalists to pick The movie narrative strength is ultimately its shortcoming. For cure sounds that ruined the solemn feeling they national newspaper, mostly by lifting material of the Internet. When up on the Guns N’ Roses phenomenon and benefited from a good those who are not familiar with Curtis’s story, the script is completely managed to bring out occasionally. But, when they Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson he discovers an Internet based Giles Wareing Haters’ Club his mild relationship with the band, until falling out with Axl Rose, report- void of any clues to the overall story. We meet a man, he joins a band, took the full step, and dropped all their pop pre- depression turns to a full-blown mid-life crisis This ignites a string of edly over an interview that sparked a long-lasting feud between Axl band is famous, man commits suicide. Although compelling in its Ganging Up tentiousness to create a more simple artistry, they events, as Giles tries to reclaim his manhood by infiltrating his own and Motley Crüe’s, Vince Neil. The book mostly draws on previously simplicity, the narrative does not allow offer the historical details that developed soundscapes that were worthy of inte- haters’ club to prove his detractors wrong and entertains thoughts of published material, but gains from Wall’s access to the band and his non-fans of the band might need. SBB rest. Their album will likely hit home with a certain starting an affair with its leader, the mysterious Salome66; while self personal relationship with band members, particularly in their early Who: Where: When: group of audience but I remain unconvinced. medicating on a cocktail of cocaine and anti-depressants. Giles Ware- years. He does a good job of documenting their rise to stardom and Royal Fortune, Organ September 27, 2007 Benny Crespo’s Gang, however, is a band that ing is an incredibly uninteresting person, and author Dowling does recounting Axl’s troubled childhood. The second act, Axl’s post-GN’R- Benny Crespo’s Gang I could probably listen to live for full two days a good job of creating funny situations from his miserable existence. breakup-years, suffers for the simple fact that the reclusive Axl has not without getting bored. These four kids have been SBB been very forthcoming with the press about his life, so Wall is mostly around for a while, but they have not played much restricted to a recount of tabloid headlines. SBB as of late. This might well be related to band mem- ber Lovísa’s busy schedule with her solo project

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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS 20 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Interview Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | 21

Artist Ragnar Kjartansson exhibits at The Living Art Stills from the movie Sófakynslóðin (The Sofa Museum. Photo by GAS Generation)

Singing Painting at Nylo Awakening the Couch Potatoes

Artist and musician Ragnar Kjartansson opens a How did the collaboration between you two pretty bummed about it. But this all started as a In retrospect Iceland has never lacked activism, The Icelandic Feminist Movement and what would being held. So they visited colleges around the city, “It also reminded me of solo exhibition at the Living Art Museum (Nylo) this come about? joke. When we were thinking about a title for the “One question I received and many prideful moments of Icelandic history later become and now is Saving Iceland, and vari- focusing on their prime audience which is the Ice- Saturday, October 6. Ragnar, known both as the sing- Davíð Þór: We got this genius to come and perform exhibition we said: “Why not just call it God!” and are examples of social disobedience. In medieval ous other groups focusing on natural preservation. landic youth because as she says “Of course, there something my dad told er of electro pop group Trabant and as an inventive at the Flís release concert. He showed up with a then laughed about it. But then I found ‘God’ a very directly after screening times it was the “heathen folk” denying Christianity, Yet, in no way does the film lean more to the left, are lots of generalisations about what activists are. performance artist, collaborated with composer and whole stage set and repeated himself for half an fitting title for the exhibition. It’s such a serious later students and townsfolk arguing for the coun- or as Einarsdóttir states “the goal was to show all One question I received directly after screening me once at Christmas. He Flís pianist Davíð Þór Jónsson to create his newest hour before our show. thing to say, ‘God’. the movie was: ‘Are you try’s sovereignty, and later on our own flag instead aspects, both poles of the political spectrum. For the movie was: “Are you one of those hippies like in piece, entitled ”God”. Accompanied by the experi- Ragnar: That’s basically how this all started. This You once did a performance called ‘Satan is of a Danish one. Sadly, here in Iceland political fer- example, some complained about our depicture the film?” And adding “Last summer the prejudice called me into the living mental jazz-trio Flís and a mini symphony orchestra, performance, ‘Sorrow Conquers Happiness’. It was Real.’ Is there a connection between the two one of those hippies like vour has often given way to apathy. And therefore of the Iceland-Palestine movement as being biased, and narrow-mindedness of the media and certain he has filmed a 30-minute long musical video, which a beautiful piece and I wanted to do it again with pieces? Áslaug Einarsdóttir’s and Garðar Stéfansson’s film yet at the same time no Zionist group is making it- people in the public was astounding when foreign room and said very seri- will be displayed for the first time at Nylo. Grapevine many musicians. This time we created a mini-ver- Ragnar: Not really. But they are connected in a way in the film?’” Sófakynslóðin, or The Sofa Generation, which is self heard. You simply can’t show something that is activists here protested heavy industry”. Because, sat down with Ragnar and Davíð Þór to find out sion of a big band. In all there are about 12 musi- that I’m fascinated about big emotions and big now being shown at RIFF, is a healthy wake up call not visible”. When asked about this seemingly all as mentioned above, there is a certain fear that ously: ‘Ragnar, it’s both more about it. cians who stand still while I sing. This video is sort titles. to Icelanders to loosen their grip on the television encompassing undercurrent of fear of taking part activism is only left sided – but the fact remains, of like a singing painting. The exhibition opens this Saturday at 20:00. remote a bit. in important issues and being an activist, she then as Einarsdóttir says, is: “I would like to see certain sad and beautiful to be a Can you start by explaining what this exhibi- Your previous works are characterised by a Will there be any happenings at the opening? What began as a summer job for Amnesty In- speaks a simple truth often stated by others: misconceptions shattered, as some individuals in tion is all about? mix between music and theatre, drama and Ragnar: Well, this is such an elegant piece that ternational for both of them turned out to be the “I think people in Iceland are, perhaps, afraid the film are more famous for other things than let’s human being.’” Ragnar: The exhibition is named ‘God’. The walls humour… I really want to have an elegant opening. A gala genesis of this film, so when asked on the other of straying from the norm, being unconventional say, activism”. However, as far as foreign distribution inside Nylo are going to be covered with pink sat- Ragnar: Yes, and this video is a mix of music and opening. I once saw a video from an opening in the hand what the impetus for the film was Einarsdót- or even being called a communist’”. She also men- goes she says that they are waiting for answers. Hav- in and in the end of the room will be the video, cinema. It is a large production, filmed in the Lati- US in the 1960s and everyone was wearing a tux. I tir simply states that “We noticed that there was tions that there are “however a few examples of ing shown the film in Buenos Aires, for example, the which features a big band playing and me singing. bær studio. The video deals a lot with the future though that was very cool. this prevailing interest in the younger generation activism from the right, e.g. when the young Inde- people there were amazed at what they considered The loop is called ‘Sorrow Conquers Happiness’ and asks the question: What does the future hold So there will be a dress code? to actually take part in social issues, change them pendent Party members tried to sell and give beer our very distinct approach to activism here. And so and will be played over and over again. I said this for us? Nothing but sorrow. Ragnar: Yes, an elegant dress code. and make a difference. However, they had no clue on the streets”. if you are looking for the underbelly of Icelandic phrase, “Sorrow Conquers Happiness”, during a Tra- Nothing but sorrow? That isn’t very positive. whatsoever as how to start, or even what the term political and social discourse – then look no fur- bant concert at NASA once and everyone in the Ragnar: Yes, both good sorrow and bad sorrow. It’s The exhibition is open from October 5 to November 4 meant”. And so it was with that mindset that they Reaching out to the Sofa Generation ther. crowd seemed to agree with me. It also reminded not very positive, I know, and this is a very dramatic decided to in their own words “show the different One cannot help but wonder if the title of the film me of something my dad told me once at Christ- exhibition. We try to create a certain situation. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir aspects of activism flourishing in Iceland and offer could lead to a conundrum when considering Sofa Generation is being shown during the Reyk- mas. He called me into the living room and said People can come and watch the video and then go a fresh take on discourse surrounding it” in a soci- these words spoken in it: “We are the sofa genera- javík International Film Festival at Regnbogabíó on very seriously: “Ragnar, it’s both sad and beautiful home and groan a little, maybe. ety lacking radical activism. tion, a sofa-country. All we do is sit on the sofa and Sunday Oct 7. to be a human being.” Davíð Þór: Perhaps it will have the opposite effect disapprove and yet we do nothing, nothing at all”. Davíð Þór: This weird beauty has followed us on other people. People that are usually very sad Leftist Activism in Iceland? So how do you exactly ensnare an audience and Text by Marvin Lee Dupree around when we have worked on projects together; might become happy after watching the video. The movie itself is an aggregation of interviews awaken its passions when faced with this problem: the beauty and sadness in being so lively. Ragnar: It is also partly based on a struggle I’ve conducted with various people that take part in The Sofa Generation? Fortunately, Einarsdóttir says Ragnar: The pink satin represents that feeling in a been dealing with. I used to be very religious as a grass roots activism in some kind of shape and that they set out with the goal of not only raising way. teenager but all of a sudden, it disappeared. I was form. Interviewees from Amnesty International, awareness but also making sure discussions were

Lárus & Lárus Really? OKTOBERFEST

Come and Experience it, EDDAS AND SAGAS Reykjavik style! Iceland’s national treasures I once had amnesia Or maybe it was twice?

MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE.

The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11am and 5pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage The admission fee grants entry to all exhibitions at the Culture House. Adults ISK 300. Senior citizens ISK 200. ALWAYS Hverfi sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik Students ISK 200. Free entry for children 16 years of age or younger. Admission is free on Wednesdays. Tel.: +354 545 1400, www.thjodmenning.is An open guided tour of the Manuscripts exhibition is offered every weekday except Wednesdays at 3:30 pm. NICE Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavik – ICELAND / +354 599 1000 www.saltrestaurant.is 22 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Article Article | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | 23

Photos by Fabrizio Frascaroli

Across the Country in 40 Days Adventures of The Lonesome Traveller, Leg 2

Let’s clear up one thing straightaway: hitchhiking the way to the village of Reykjahlíð, the tourist hub before some merciful soul finally stopped and (as if she had actually seen the entrance to Hell are longing for solitude and an ideal of pristine Despite the cool air, a small crowd of young- hung-over. It takes me three cups of strong coffee The days of yore when I in Iceland no longer is the bonanza it used to be. on the shore of the lake. I got my friend Sigurjón picked me up. It was already evening when I even- before). nature, this is exactly where not to be. By this, I sters has gathered in the backyard, intent at up- before being eventually ready to set out. Or, at least, this is what my current experience to send me a substitute lens with the afternoon tually reached Reykjahlíð again, roasted by the For honesty’s sake, the poor woman’s sensi- do not mean that the experience is irremediably holding the art of smoking. I join them. A tall dude At the southern border of the village, the could cover the almost seems to suggest. plane to Akureyri. So far so good. But getting there sun like a stuffed turkey, in a terrible mood, and bilities had primarily been hurt by the threaten- spoilt by the presence of other people – not at with a short blonde beard appears to be the party- thickets begin – and with them, what I call in I set out from Reykjavík – this is how the sto- myself proved to be no joke, requiring a number surely more exhausted than if I had walked the ing pipelines suspended over the road and the all. As lines of visitors walk about the place in a leader. He speaks loudly, laughs mechanically, and my mind “the real thing.” Matter of a mere twenty 500 kilometres between ry runs – on July 7th. Two days into my forty days of of lifts and long, wearisome waits. The days of yore whole way from Dettifoss in a single day. sinister presence of the nearby power station, as nearly rhythmic sequence, however, the impres- clearly likes wearing shorts. He has been working kilometres, and the inlands will gradually be- walking I lost my camera’s lens to wind and sand, when I could cover the almost 500 kilometres Whatever the mood, it must be given that – much as by the landscape. Anyhow, although back sion becomes one of staring at some plein air art as a guide in Mývatn for many years, and knows come Highlands – civilization, a fading memory. Ísafjörður and Reykja- and was forced to make painstaking deliberations. between Ísafjörður and Reykjavik in a mere five among the tourist resorts in the country – the Mý- then I found that reaction quite outside the lines, exhibition, rather than traversing a stretch of God- how to act friendly. “Who are you?” I am asked. Reykjahlíð is the only and last village for the next “Hold on and keep it real” had been the tempo- hours, jumping from car to car, already felt like a vatn lowlands still stick out and deserve special it remains a fact that a disquieting and gloomy forsaken wasteland. “Just a traveller.” Such qualification seems to sat- thirty days. vik in a mere five hours, rary conclusion. “I’ll shortly reach Mývatn, and get remote mirage. I reached the town (and my new ranking in the visitor’s agenda of places to see. It is atmosphere reigns over the whole place. And isfy everyone and I am given a warm welcome. A broken camera lens, a detour to Akureyri, the problem solved.” So I left behind the desolated lens) late in the evening. the staggering variety of landscapes and habitats today’s ominous weather only seems to amplify Reykjahlíð – Yet Again I strike up conversations, not all of them en- one day of delay: it has been a troubled start of jumping from car to car, landscape around Dettifoss, with its never-ceasing which make this place a unique and indispensa- that character: thick and low clouds feed a sense There are places that always seem to stay the tirely successful. my journey, far from what I had ideally pictured. roar of pouring water and mud, and entered the Reykjahlíð – Again ble addition to the compendium of sight-seeing of oppression, while layers of brume and drizzle same. I believe that everybody has a few of these “What are you going to do tomorrow?” I pray that better luck will assist me from now on. already felt like a remote lush pastures that stretch south-west of the road. The worst was still to come. It was reserved for the in Iceland. Wetlands, lava fields, woody stands and conceal the surroundings in a foreboding veil of nests to come back to, even years later, and be “I’ll start walking to Askja” The “Weather of Great Occasions” is upon the land, As I pushed forward, doubts kept crowding next morning – another clear, unusually hot day. colourful hot springs are juxtaposed alongside al- mystery. caressed by the reassuring sensation that things “It’s cold in Askja! Why do you want to work and for a while I wish that someone was going to mirage. within. I had already treaded this ground twice I found out with uttermost dismay, that a whole most geometric boundaries, and yet in peaceful But as I wander about, every now and then have remained exactly the way they were left the there?” accompany me to the limit of town and tell me before, and never with particular thrills or ex- row of hitchhikers was already positioned at regu- and harmonic continuity. the treasures of Krafla emerge from the envelop- last time. Gamli Bærinn – the only authentic bar “I like it… But I’ll stay in Askja only one day. goodbye and good luck. But I am alone. A sud- citement – at least, not until reaching the cruel lar intervals along the sea boulevard in a hopeful ing fog: the vividly red tonality of the hills; the in Reykjahlíð – holds a similar appeal to me. Step- And then walk to Reykjavík” den pang of melancholy pierces me like a sting volcanic landscapes around Krafla. On the other wait – people of all sorts, often dwarfed by their Krafla vents and fumes that rise from the ground and go ping inside at night immediately takes me back “And doing what?” – sometimes leaving places is one of the hardest hand, the prospect of losing precious time on own suitcases. I think I counted a dozen. “It’ll be It is the day after my arrival to Reykjahlíð, and I to merge with the mist; the kaleidoscope of hues to some four years earlier: same furniture, same “Just walking all the way!” facets of solitude. getting my camera fixed once in Mývatn and ac- easier for you: you are alone” someone reassured have decided to walk to the geothermal area at and colours mixed in the mud; the celebrated Víti smell, the same vibrant atmosphere woven by “Yes, but what sort of job?” “This is how real adventures start: under an over- cumulating further unwelcome delays seemed a me. There was also another guy, watery eyes and Krafla. I am aware that I will accumulate some fur- crater with its green waters; and the twisted and many voices chatting in different tongues. I in- “Oh, forget about it.” cast sky and introspective mood. Until now it’s still realistic and rather dissuading eventuality. As such the most annoying voice to date, comfortably sit- ther twenty-four hours delay in my schedule, but I deformed sculptures of lava – crystallized repre- stinctively look around, as if expecting to even been preliminaries, this is the actual beginning.” I thoughts gained momentum, I changed my bear- ting on the pavement and just exhibiting a sign trust it is time well-spent. I remember I once drove sentations of the spasms of the earth. A sour smell spot the same people. Nothing But the Real Thing make myself courageous and dive into the dark ing and headed back to the road, and the act felt that read “Egilsstaðir.” I moved on in haste. there with my mother – a typical city woman with of sulphur makes for the only constant around At a closer look, however, I realize that time I am awoken at 5:30 in the morning: a group of greenness of the thickets. I am glad of having the as heavy as if I was steering the wheel of a ship in If this inflation of hitchers struck me as no love whatsoever for mountains or adventure here. runs its course here too. Both the food and the French tourists are breaking camp and not both- trees around me: they give a sense of safety and open sea. unsettling, it evidently solicited even harsher re- – in the dim air of a late August twilight. As we There is just one single element that stands service, for example, have lost something in qual- ering to do it quietly. Although they speak as excit- protection, of being hidden from any watchful Two cars passed by, leaving me at their back sponses from most drivers on the road. For the approached, her spirits failed and she started dis- to mitigate the dreadful and forbidding impact ity. Fortunately, not all changes are necessarily for edly as if the end of the world was upon us, the eyes. I hold my breath and push forward along the in a cloud of dust and frustration. The third one very first time, I found myself being grimly looked playing all her paraphernalia of religious gestures of the landscape – comfortably reachable by car the worse, and on the bright side I am delighted only word I can clearly distinguish is merely froid. path. The Highlands are waiting. halted: a Polish family on holiday, very friendly at by people through their cars’ windows. I think and invocations. “I’m sorry, but this place is too – Krafla has become established as a renowned to find out that Coldplay are no longer part of the I open my sleeping bag and sit up, and have at people. They even took a detour to drive me all I walked almost ten kilometres out of the town much like the entrance to Hell” she commented and well-attended tourist attraction. In short, if you house troubadour’s repertoire. once to come to terms with the cold reality: I am Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli

Energy for life through forces of nature

Cappuccino + bagle + yoghurt = 650 kr.

www.bluelagoon.com 24 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Places

Crystal snuff bottle with playing children inner painted by Ye Zhongsan Reykjavík Then & Now QING ( 1644AD – 1911AD) Get aste f he  ...with Ieland a little bit of spanish thrown in! Choose from over 70 courses, ranging from lobster and various types of fish to icelandic lamb in the greatest of atmosphere. A must try is our famous puffin with blueberry and “brennivín” sauce.

Exhibition of

– Wuhan

The exhibition is open until the 11th of November. Opening hours 11-17 (except Mondays). Only 10 min by Iceland’s only authentic Tapas-Bar bus S1 or S2 from Lækjargata or Hlemmur, every 20 minutes. KÓPAVOGUR Disembark at the first stop in Kópavogur. ART MUSEUM Tel:551-2344 • Email:[email protected] Address: Vesturgata 3b • 101 Reykjavík

Instead of a newspaper and an ice cream parlor, downtown redevelopment has brought us a hotel and an insurance company. That’s called progress. 1987/2007

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CZlh$$8jaijgZ$$9^c^c\$$IgVkZaa^c\$$H]dee^c\$$6gi^XaZh$$>ciZgk^Zlh 26 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Places Places | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | 27

My Spot: Skúlatorg

“Between Laugavegur and Reykjavík’s financial district, just a few meters from the Central Bus Station you will find this oasis in the desert. The best kept secret in 105.”

Eldar Ástþórsson is the festival manager for the Iceland Airwaves music festival.

Photo by Guðmundur Ingólfsson

In 2001, an archaeological excavation in Aðalstræti ogy is used to shed light on the way the early set- Reykjavik 871±2 is part of the Reykjavík City led to the discovery of an ancient longhouse dat- tlers lived and worked during the Viking-ages, why Museum and is aimed to preserve the country’s Reykjavík 871±2 ing from around 871 AD (plus or minus two years.) the settlers chose to settle in Reykjavík of all places, cultural heritage. In 2006, the museum won the This longhouse is believed to be one of the first and how they lived and spread around. Several NODEM Award for the Best Design of Digital Expe- houses built in Reykjavík. The decision was made items found at archaeological sites in the centre riences in Museums in the Nordic countries and Aðalstræti 16 to open a museum on the site and preserve the are displayed with the ancient longhouse ruins as a won the Icelandic Museum Award the same year. 101 Reykjavík remains for generations to come and in the mean- centrepiece. The 3D models, touch screens and vid- Reykjavík City Museum is also nominated for the Tel.: 411 6370 time enlighten the public about this cultural herit- eos add a whole lot of fun to the experience and European Museum of the Year Award 2008 for the www.reykjavikmuseum.is age. The exhibition, entitled ‘The Settlement Exhibi- you can even view on a large TV screen how the new Settlement Exhibition. tion,’ opened in 2006. longhouse was most likely constructed. The newest Extensive research was done to make the ex- addition to the museum is a recently opened ex- The exhibition is open daily from 10:00 to 17:00 hibition as educational as possible and the result is hibition that explains the preservation of the long- quite impressive. The newest multimedia technol- house site.

Fly and discover

NUUK GRÍMSEY Greenland

Air Iceland destinations ÍSAFJÖRÐUR VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

EGILSSTAÐIR

NERLERIT INAAT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK

FAROE ISLANDS

WESTMAN ISLANDS Get your action-packed day tour brochure

/SIA.IS/ICE 34752 04/07 airiceland.is at hotels, airports or any travel agent. / tel. 570 3030 ÍSLENSKA 28 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Article

Left: A handbag by Hrafnhldur Guðrúnardóttir. Right: Kitchen untensils by Ragnheiður Tryggvadóttir..

It’sIt’s the the journey journey /SIA.IS/HER 37858 05/07 /SIA.IS/HER 37858 05/07 A Buffet of Quality Icelandic Designs - not- notthe thedestination destination ÍSLENSKA ÍSLENSKA

The interior design exhibition and trade show ble for the first time this particular weekend. For the ally in production,” Guðfinna explains and contin- “This is a tricky and chal- ‘Home and Design’ takes place for the second time occasion, some of the designers will also introduce ues: “Hopefully this will soon change and Icelandic Enjoy everyEnjoy second every of second your stay of your by exploring stay by exploring the beauty the beauty at the new Laugardalshöll Hall, October 19 - 21. As brand-new products the public has never seen be- design made more accessible to the public. There of Icelandof andIceland taking and advantage taking advantage of our easy, of our safe easy, and safe and lenging project because a part of the three-day design fiesta this year, a spe- fore. These include kitchen utensils by Ragnheiður are so many great things going on today and sev- cial area inside the Laugardalshöll showroom will Tryggvadóttir, a new porcelain collection by Katrín eral companies could work closely with Icelan- practical practicalservices inservices Iceland. in Iceland. very small part of Icelan- be dedicated to Icelandic contemporary design. Pétursdóttir, handbags by Hrafnhildur Guðrúnardót- dic designers and benefit from such cooperation. The space, entitled ‘Brum,’ will feature designs by tir and handmade headpieces by Thelma Björk Brum is supposed to be an encouragement for that dic design is actually in approximately 30 local designers who get the op- Jónsdóttir, who premieres her summer 2008 collec- to happen.” +354 522+354 44 00 522 • www.hertz.is 44 00 • www.hertz.is portunity to introduce their products to the public, tion at Brum, which she designed in collaboration When asked why such a small part of Icelan- production.” shop owners and production companies. Unlike with Hrafnhildur Guðrúnardóttir. For the first time dic design is produced, Brynhildur says: “It is both Hertz locationsHertz in locationsIceland: Keflavíkin Iceland: Airport, Keflavík Reykjavík, Airport, Reykjavík,Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Ísafjörður, Höfn, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir Höfn,, EgilsstaðirSelfoss most design exhibitions, all the products will also in Iceland, Brum will also sell new Icelandic fonts an expensive and time consuming process. The be for sale. designed by Gunnar Þór Vilhjálmsson, ready to be market is small, the environment is unfavourable Brum is a collaborative project between Ice- installed on the computer. and designers don’t have many production com- land Design Forum (Hönnunarvettvangur) and Ice- “We wanted to create a very special atmos- panies to choose from.” They furthermore say that land Convention Event Management (Íslandsmót) phere and an interesting experience for the guests. an exhibition like this one will undoubtedly have who got the brilliant idea to turn the space into a We carefully choose all the items and want people a significant meaning for local designers and can small shop. The designers Guðfinna Mjöll Magnús- to enjoy browsing through the selection and at the hopefully create new opportunities. dóttir and Brynhildur Pálsdóttir were hired as cura- same time understand that Icelandic designs are “Production companies and shop owners can tors and shop managers and are now busy design- quality products and totally unique,” says Guðfinna. view new products, get in contact with the design- ing the space, collecting new designs and creating Both she and Brynhildur will work in the shop and ers and perhaps get the products in production. a unique treasure chest for selective shoppers. assist everyone who wants to take a look around That’s the goal. At the same time Brum will also or do some shopping. “I think it is very important show what is going on in Icelandic design today,” Designers Premiere Unique Products that the customers can get to know the designer Brynhildur explains. Although the market in Ice- The shop, which will only be open for three days, who designed the product they want to buy. Get to land is still relatively small, they say that the indus- features various designs by both up-and-coming know all the background, what fabrics were used try gets bigger every year and a growing number and established local designers. The idea is to and what inspired the designer when creating the of designers can today design for a living. “We of present a unique buffet of new and fresh designs product. As we picked out all the items ourselves course think that design can be a much bigger part where guests can find everything from accessories we know the whole history,” she adds. of the Icelandic economy in the future. An exhibi- to household tools and decorative items. Guests tion like Brum is supposed to motivate designers can view a diverse selection and if they happen to New Opportunities for the Industry and urge them to make things become a reality. The see something they like, they get the opportunity to Although Icelandic designers are growing in opportunities are endless and they can be found buy the items on the spot. number and the market for Icelandic design get- everywhere. It’s only a question about how they are “I don’t think that there has ever been an exhi- ing bigger, they tell me it hasn’t been easy to find used,” Guðfinna adds. bition like this one in Iceland which also is a shop. enough products to fill the shop. That’s very exciting,” says Brynhildur and adds that “This is a tricky and challenging project be- Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir most of the products they picked out will be availa- cause a very small part of Icelandic design is actu-

Don’t miss Kisan when in downtown Reykjavík. A truly unique concept store carrying world known brands as well as local delights like the quality sweaters from Farmers Market – only place in downtown. Annick Goutal, Bonpoint, Farmers Market, Orla Kiely, Sonia Rykiel, Laugavegi 7 • 101 Reykjavík Jamin Puech, Petit Bateau, Steiff ... Sími 561 6262 • www.kisan.is 30 | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 16 2007 | Parting Shot Ultimate Survival Guide | Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2007 | 31

Services Swimming pools: weekdays 06:30- Bus Terminal Useful Information Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, 22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 although www.bhm.is Useful Numbers some may be open an hour longer. BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Where to learn Icelandic as a Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, The State owned ÁTVR liquor Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is foreign language www.efling.is Emergency number: 112 stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat The Commercial Workers’ Union, Police: 569 9000 11-18. Samferda.net Icelandic on the Internet, Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is Medical help: 1770 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri www.vefskoli.is Union of Public Servants, Gret- Dental emergency: 575 0505 09-16. A reasonable choice for the budget Mímir Continuing Education, tisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is AA: 551 2010 traveller. You log on to the website Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Information: 118 Laundry Service www.samferda.net, choose your Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Useful Websites Telegrams: 146 destination and hopefully find a travel Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, buddy to share the cost. Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, www.visitreykjavik.is (The official Tax Free Refund Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is tourist website of Reykjavík) Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Cultural Centres and The Icelandic College of Engi- www.gayice.is (Information about Iceland Refund, Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tourist Offices neering and Technology, Höfða- the gay scene in Iceland) Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 bakki 9, www.fjolmenningarsetur.is www.icelandrefund.com The Intercultural Centre Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (The Multicultural Centre) Getting Around The Intercultural Centre throws oc- Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, www.hostel.is Post Office casional cultural events and confer- Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, (Hostel International in Iceland) Public transport ences but its main purpose is to be an www.ir.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is Post offices are located around the information and counselling centre The University of Iceland – De- (Public employment services) city as well as in the countryside. The only public transport system in and serve as an advocate for the rights partment of Continuing Education, www.gulalinan.is (The yellow The downtown post office is at Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run of immigrants in Iceland. Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, pages) Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and every 20 minutes and price per fare is Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 www.endurmenntun.is www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) info on opening hours visit www. 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.ahus.is www.ja.is posturinn.is. Stamps are also sold in dren. Complete route map at: www. Icelandic Travel Market Religious movements (Icelandic telephone directory) bookstores, gas stations, some grocery bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, stores and tourist shops. Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- www.kleif.is The national church in Iceland is the Where to get … days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Information on day tours, accommoda- Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses Embassies and Consulates tions, car rental and everything else are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 Work and residence permit: The Rent a bike you need to know when travelling in in churches all around the capital. Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð United States, Laufásvegur 21, Iceland. Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. Tel: 562 9100 Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, Iceland Visitor every last Saturday each month, Insurance and benefits: The State United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Tel: 550 5100 HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, www.icelandvisitor.com Church also has masses in English and 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Russia, Garðastræti 33, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is A travel agency offering travelling Polish. Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Tel: 551 5156 Tourist Information Centre, package trips and custom-made tours Other religious movements in Reyk- come from a Nordic country, foreign China, Víðimelur 29, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, as well as car rental, day tours and javík are for example: citizens have to have had an unre- Tel: 552 6751 www.visitreykjavik.is accommodations for visitors. The Muslim Association of Ice- stricted residence permit in Iceland for Tourist Information Centre land, Ármúli 38 at least seven years in order to get an For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Taxi Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 Icelandic citizenship although some Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- www.visitreykjavik.is Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 exceptions exist to that general rule. sions/icelandic-missions/ Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, Offers information for tourists as well The Church of Evangelism, Applications are at the Ministry of Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 as providing internet access, book- Hlíðasmári 9 Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, A rare moment, captured by our photographer, when more than two people actually used the Reykjavík’s public transit system at the same time. Photo by GAS Internet Access BSR, Tel: 561 0000 ing service, a phone centre, money The Icelandic Buddhist Move- Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, For disabled travellers: exchange service, tax refund and ment, Víghólastígur 21 www.domsmalaraduneyti.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Reykjavík Group Travel Service, selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Unemployment benefits: Director- Internet access. Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admis- Fríkirkjuvegur 5 ate of Labour, Public Employment Classifieds Classified ads are free for individuals! If you want to place a classified ad, email [email protected] Computers with Internet connections randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ sion to city busses, various museums, Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, are available at: travel_service/ Reykjavík swimming pools, The Family Roman Catholic Church, www.vinnumalastofnun.is Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture Hávallagata 14 Icelandic social security number Accommodation Needed Tjarnargata 11 Car rentals House and the National and University Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- (kennitala): National Register, Bor- Grundarfjörður Hostel PI am looking for a small apartment near BSÍ Bus Terminal, Library. Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Reyjavik 108. Please call me at (310) Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, The Icelandic Tourist Board Jehovah’s Witnesses, www.hagstofa.is 775-3916 or email me at: bettysblues@ Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 554 6040 Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Sogavegur 71 Driver’s license: Those who have a gmail.com The Reykjavík City Library, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 www.visiticeland.com Seventh-Day Adventists, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Job openings: Tryggvagata 15 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 All information needed before travel- Suðurhlíð 36 one for the first six months. After that The National and University Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, ling in Iceland. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, time you have one month to apply for Looking to hire a full time live in nanny to Library, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 565 3800 Goethe Institute Reykjavíkurvegur 31 an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- care for my two children ages 16 months Tourist Information Centre, A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Independent Church, tions are at police stations. and 12 years old. Must be willing to comfortable - affordable move the Richmond Virginia ( USA ) must Aðalstræti 2 Tel: 587 5544 www.goethe.de/island Háteigsvegur 101 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur Central in Snæfellsnes drive and speak some english. NO CRIMI- Icelandic Travel Market, Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, A cultural institute that offers movie The Russian Orthodox Church in 166, Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is NAL HISTORY OF ANY KIND will pay Bankastræti 2 Tel: 565 3800 screenings, lectures and German Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 Rent subsidies: Social Service 600.00$ per month. Please sent replys to: Tangarhöfða 8, language courses. Hlíðasmári 5-7 Office, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 [email protected] Berg Car Rental, The Cross, Opening hours Tel: 577 6050 Nordic House www.felagsthjonustan.is 600 Akureyri Tveir Fiskar Restaurant is looking for an Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Trade Unions tel: 462 5600 experienced waiter required for full time Bars and clubs: According to regu- www.nordice.is [email protected] [email protected] or part time work. Must be fluent in Eng- www.hotelakureyri.is lish, have excellent communication skills, lations bars may be open until 01:00 Airlines The Nordic cultural centre organises The Icelandic Federation of www.hostel.is A few minutes walk from downtown a keen eye for detail and enjoy working in on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. various cultural events, conferences Labour, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, Akureyri. Every room has private a team. Knowledge of wine and Icelandic Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, and exhibitions. www.asi.is bathroom, refrigerator, safe, telephone, desirable but not essential. The position is +354-5626533 closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also The Federation of State and Mu- wireless internet and multi-channel TV. in the evenings (from 16:00 to closing). If +354-8956533 Free Breakfast included. you would like to join a young, passion- and Smáralind as well as most super- Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, offer brochures, maps and information nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, ate and motivated team, send your CV/ markets and tourist shops have longer www.eyjaflug.is for travellers. Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is Bring THIS AD and Hótel Stykkishólmur Résumé by email to [email protected]. opening hours. The Association of Academics, get 15% discount! tel: 430 2100 As part of our expansion program,our [email protected] company is looking for part time Work Hótel Stykkishólmur is at Breiðafjörður from home account managers and sales bay, 2 hours from Reykjavík. The area is representatives, it pays $3000 a month Accommodation under special law of conservation. Golf plus benefits and takes only little of your course is free, parking free. Swimming time. Please contact us for more details. pool 100. metr Gesthús Dúna Requirements - Should be a computer Suðurhlíð 35, Literate. 2-3 hours access to the internet Bakki, Laugarbakka 105 Reykjavík weekly. Must be over 19yrs of age. Must tel: 4512987 / 6163304 Tel: 5882100 / Fax: 5882102 be Efficient and Dedicated.If you are inter- email: [email protected] [email protected], [email protected] ested and need more information,Contact Quiet surroundings, only one kilometer Michael J Sloan, Email: The only thing lower than the www.islandia.is/duna from Highway 1, Rooms, Sleeping Bag B&B ROOMS FROM 5.000.- SLEEPNG [email protected] Accommodation and Camping w/electric- BAG ACCOMMODATION ity Mini-Market and Cafe Angling sold for lakes in Arnarvatnsheiði Hótel Akureyri Hafnarstræti 67 standard of this ad ...

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(Book at www.sixt.is, call 540 2222 or contact your Hotel reception.) grapevine.is

ISSUE SIXTEEN: OCTOBER 05 - NOVEMBER 01 YOUR FREE COPY

Stuffed with stuff

“People are attracted to weird. You stand out in crowd when you are weird; you are allowed to do what ever you like if you are weird. Coming back to the elves, of course, this image sells.” Professor Terry Gunnel talks about Iceland- ers’ relationship with elves Page 6

“The goal was to show all aspects, both poles of the political spectrum. For example, some complained about our depicture of the Iceland-Palestine move- ment as being biased, yet at the same time no Zion- ist group is making itself heard. You simply can’t show something that is not visible.” Ása Einarsdóttir on her documentary ‘The Sofa Generation’ Page 21

“What we have been mak- ing, that’s not even going to be songs man, it is go- ing to be an adventure, a trip.” Mínus frontman Krummi on the band’s newest material Page 16

“Her voice was so full and consuming that, almost inadvertently, it grabbed you by the little hairs on the back of your neck and thrust you into the melo- dy.” Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir attended a Mr. Silla & Mongoose concert at Organ Page 18