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Volume 15 Issue 3

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Volume 15 Issue 3 Volume 15, Issue 3 Newsletter of Tea Association of the USA®, Fall Issue 2008 the Tea Council of the USA® & the Specialty Tea Institute® Quarterly Newsletter Inside this issue: Sri Lanka Charity Event Held in Boston Exploring Japanese Tea 2 Thanks to the kindness of STI member Bush Varieties Cynthia Gold and her employer, the Boston A Short History of Iced 5 Park Plaza Hotel & Towers, a follow up event Tea Brewing to the Sri Lankan Specialty Estate Tea of the Year Contest & Auction was held in The Tea House Times 6 September. Cindy, the Park Plaza’s Tea Seal of Approval Sommelier, volunteered her services at the original contest and wanted to do more to Tea’s Journey Through 7 help the victims of the Tsunami who were the You... beneficiaries of the auction. Cindy Gold, Pearl Dexter & a few lucky auction winners Turning Tea Cuisine 9 Also participating in the Boston event was Pearl Dexter, Into Green editor/Publisher of Tea A Magazine, who served as auctioneer and Joe Simrany, president of the Tea Association, who Announcing the Forma- 10 served as her assistant. Honored guests included the tion of the Western Tea Commercial Minister from the Embassy of Sri Lanka in Business Association Washington DC, Nimal Karunatilake and his wife Chandi. STI Class Update 11 Despite the threat of inclement weather from the remnants Member 12 of a passing hurricane, other guests came from all over New Announcements England to participate in this charity event. In addition to several 4 -ounce packets of one of the winning teas from the The Tea Association 13 original contest, other tea related articles and pieces of art Nimal & Chandi Karunatilake Holiday Dinner donated by Cindy and her artist husband; Julian Landa, were also placed on the auction block. All funds generated by the auction were dedicated to the continuing relief of Sri Editor’s Corner 13 Lanka tsunami victims. In addition, the Boston Park Plaza hotel contributed the money generated by the guests attending the Afternoon Tea event surrounding the auction for a grand total of $3,895. This is in addition to another $4,600 generated by the original auction held at the WTE in Las Vegas last June. On top of that, the remaining runner up teas were sold at auction in Colombo directly by the Tea Board of Sri Lanka. The Specialty Tea Institute and the Tea Association of the USA were the official sponsors of the original Auction and Contest held at the World Tea Expo. However the baton has been successfully passed to many others including the bidders of the winning teas from the original auction. Pearl Dexter placed the winning bid on the High Grown Category, a St. James estate (OP) from the Uva region. Gerry Vandergrift, president of the Metropoli- tan Tea Company had the winning bid on the Low & Medium Grown Category; from the A drawing by Julian Landa, New Vithanakande Estate (Ex. Special) in the Sabaragamuwa region. auctioned at the event (Continued on page 12) TeaBits Volume 15, Issue 3 Page 2 Exploring Japanese Tea Bush Varieties By SARA KADOWAKI Traditionally Japanese tea has been recognized by the various manufacturing methods used: Sencha, Gyokuro Etc. However, what is less well appreciated are the varieties of bush types cultivated in Japan and the influence these varietals and sub-varietals of Camellia Sinensis have in making the characteristics of Japanese teas. There are many varieties of tea bush in Japan – more than 75 in fact. Sencha made from the Yabukita bush is most common, thus, Yabukita has become the archetype of Japanese Sencha. But there are many other bushes, and though they are less well known to the layman, they are just as enjoyable as ubiquitous Yabukita. Until recently some of these alternate bushes were grown mainly for blending purposes in order to enhance the taste, color, or aroma of Sencha made from Yabukita. For example, Yutakamidori was and still is used to blend with Yabukita to create depth in taste. Asatsuyu bush was and still is used to blend with Yabukita to enhance color. (Please see the descriptions for bush types below). But for the last six or seven years Japanese tea producers have increasingly been marketing non-Yabukita varieties under their own botanical names. I noticed this trend at tea and food expositions throughout Japan in recent years, and this made me curious enough to investigate the reasons behind such a marketing effort by Japanese producers; and to find out what led to the development of so many varieties. But first I would like to briefly introduce some of the most popular bush types including Yabukita, and then describe cultural factors which played a big part in their development of these bushes. Then I will look as well at regional and regulatory factors which stimulated Japanese producers to sell these bushes under their own “branded” botanical names. All the following bush types were developed by either selecting superior seeds of existing bushes with distinct characteristics, or by cross breeding different varieties of bush. Yabukita Yabukita produces excellent quality tea. Perfectly balanced: being sweet and brisk with a hint of bitterness. Because of its adaptable nature to different weather conditions and high yield, Yabukita is planted in over 77% of all Japanese tea gardens. The Yabukita bush was developed by Mr.Hikosaburo Sugiyama who selected high quality seeds grown in Abe Gun region of Shizuoka prefecture. When the government registration system for tea bush types was implemented in 1953, it was registered as “Tea Bush #6”. Over the years, Sencha made from Yabukita has become the standard for all Sencha in Japan and is the benchmark with which to compare other varieties. Yutakamidori The development of Yutakamidori was first initiated in a test field in Shizuoka, but was finally registered in Kagoshima in 1966. Yutakamidori has larger leaves and a more bitter taste than the most other varieties. But if it is shaded before harvesting and steamed for longer during production, the liquor of Yutakamidori becomes thicker and more complex in taste. Yutakamidori is the 2nd most planted bush after Yabukita, and its 1st flush harvest time is earlier than Yabukita by a few days too. Yutakamidori is mainly grown in Kagoshima region. Kutiatwase The color of Kutiatwase liquor is very bright green and it has correspondingly fresh aroma. The 1st flush harvest of this tea comes earlier than most other bushes. The Kutiatwase bush is shaded before harvesting to enhance its fresh aroma. The harvesting period for quality Kuritawase is limited. With the harvest of 1st flush Kuritawase in southern Japan over, the harvesting season then starts in the rest of Japan. TeaBits Volume 15, Issue 3 Page 3 Asatsuyu This bush was developed in Shzuoka through selecting quality seeds of bushes from the Uji area (outskirts of the city of Kyoto), and was placed in the Registry in 1953. Asatsuyu’s exquisite taste is known as “naturally grown Gyokuro”, which is sweet and flavorful with very little bitterness. Asatsuyu has a wonderful pleasant aroma. Its leaves are bright, light green; thin and small. The color of liquor is a dark, bluish-green. According to some producers, Asatsuyu is a rather difficult bush to grow. 1st flush harvesting for Asatsuyu is around the same time as Yabukita. Saemidori This bush was first developed through cross-breeding between Yabukita (mother) and Asatsuyu (father) in 1969 and placed in the Registry in 1990. The literal translation for Sae Midori is “clear green”. As its name suggests it has fresh, bright green liquor color. Saemidori is very flavorful and has almost no bitterness with delicate, fresh aroma. Its harvest- ing is earlier than Yabukita. In recent years Saemidori is gaining popularity more quickly than the supply can meet. Development of various bushes In many countries production of different varietals is climate led – for example drought-resistance clones; more productive bushes; disease resistant etc. In Japan, in addition to these factors, the nature of the domestic consumer market has led to other factors driving research and development of the tea bush. Cultural factors There are four distinct seasons in Japan. Most of Japan enjoys the four seasons of spring, summer, fall and winter when, as is traditional, people enjoy foods which are in season. Theses seasonal foods are called “shun” which reminded Japanese people of the passing season. With regard to tea, Japanese like to taste newly harvested teas - “ Shincha” - for the year as soon as they can get their hands on them, as a sign that Spring has arrived, much like the Beaujolais Nouveau passion for devotees of French wines. To capitalize on this opportunity producers have tried to develop bushes which harvest earlier than Yabukita in order to deliver even earlier “Shincha” to Japanese consumers; thus bush such as Kuritawase which harvests 8- 12 days earlier than Yabukita were developed. And now many new bushes have earlier harvesting as shown in the table below. Harvesting time as Bush name compared with Yabukita Kuritawase 8 to 12 days earlier Yutakamidori 4 to 5 days earlier Source: Kagoshima Tea Growers Association Saemidori 4 days earlier Please note that this table is a comparison of harvesting times within the same tea growing region and harvesting in Kagoshima for example is approximately Asanoka 1 to 2 days earlier one week earlier than that of Shizuoka. ( see next page for the map of Japan) Asatsuyu 1 to 2 days earlier Over the years, particularly after Fukamushi Sencha (a deep steamed Sencha which produces much greener liquor than traditional Sencha), became popular, what people consider as good color for Sencha liquor has changed.
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