Flavors from the Past
flavors from the past Heirloom Tomatoes ing, packing, refrigeration, and long-dis- tance shipping. Tomato skins grew thick- er and the fruit became harder. Flavor took a backseat in the breeding of hybrids in favor of characteristics that enhanced pro- ductivity, uniformity, disease-resistance, and long shelf life. Heirlooms can have their downside. Though some heirlooms are quite pro- ductive, many produce lower yields than hybrids. Also, heirloom fruits have soft- er flesh and thinner skins, making them less suited to long-term storage because they are more likely to bruise or spoil. But tender skins, plump juiciness, appe- tizing texture, and unadulterated flavor is a big part of what makes growing heir- looms so appealing for a home gardener. WHAT IS AN HEIRLOOM? A consensus as to what defines an heirloom still eludes us. One constant that experts When it comes to growing and eating the best-tasting tomato, agree upon is that it must be an open-pol- linated variety. However, not all open-pol- there’s nothing better than a juicy, homegrown heirloom picked linated varieties are heirlooms. Purists define heirlooms as varieties right off the vine. BY KRIS WETHERBEE that are more than 100 years old, but most tomato growers accept any open- OMATOES HAVE certainly passed down from generation to genera- pollinated variety that has been in exis- evolved from their beginnings tion; those that persisted became known tence for more than 50 years as an T in Pre-Columbian America, as heirlooms. heirloom. Common classifications in- where the berry-sized fruit grew wild in The complexity of colors and intrigu- clude “family heirlooms” (varieties passed the Andes Mountains.
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