32 tinctions. Seeds of favorite varieties were ferent sizes, shapes, hues, and flavor dis- or intentional crossings, resulting in dif- accidental from emerged varieties New the globe and traversed through time. through traversed and globe the Europe. southern influencing a new culinary tradition in tradition culinary new a influencing seeds across the Atlantic, in the process the the in Atlantic, the across seeds transported they it; encountered conquistadors Spanish where Mexico and America Central to migrated Incas and Aztecs ancient the of food native this time, Over Mountains. Andes the where the berry-sized fruit grew wild in grew wild fruit the where berry-sized T The Russian ‘Black Prince’ is an heirloom variety with a rich, smoky flavor. right off the vine. there’s nothing better than a juicy, homegrown heirloomWhen it comes pickedto growing and eating the best-tasting tomato, Heirloom Tomatoes flavors from the past Since then, tomatoes have spanned have tomatoes then, Since the American Gardener American the n r-ouba America, Pre-Columbian in beginnings their from evolved MTE HAVE OMATOES certainly ingshapes, and the wide range of decid- as heirlooms. tion; those that persisted became known passed down from generation to genera- that diversity that caught my attention 15 upper edge when it comes tothe diversity.heirlooms give It’sflavors unique edly years ago, when I took my first bite of a of bite first my took yearsI when ago, loom known as ‘Black Prince’. heir- colored mahogany flavored, richly able in the 1950s, the essence of the toma- When mass transportation became avail- HYBRIDS OF THE RISE FLAVORLESS gave way to commercial hybrids bred to varieties Heirloom decline. to began to handle the rigors of mechanized harvest- The complexity of colors and intrigu- BY KRIS WETHERBEE there’s a pretty good chance that commer- eco-friendly farm in Fort Collins. “In fact, grower Sue Oberle of Oberle Botanical, isn’tan an issue in my book,” says Colorado throughfamily, friends, or commercially processed tomatoes in the United States. the of percent 70 produced once loom the Campbell’s Soup Company, this heir- with cooperation in University Rutgers by 1934 in developed Originally gers’. ‘Rut- as such heirlooms” “commercial and varieties), heirloom other of tion muta- or cross-pollination natural from resulting (varieties heirlooms” “mystery generation), to generation from down clude an “family heirlooms” as in- (varieties passed years classifications Common 50 heirloom. than more for tence exis- in been has that variety pollinated open- any accept growers tomato most but old, years 100 than more are that linated varieties are heirlooms. linated variety. However, not all open-pol-agree upon is that it must be an open-pol- still eludes us. One constant that experts A consensus as to what defines an IS WHAT AN HEIRLOOM? heirloom looms looms so appealing for a home gardener. is a big part of what makes growing heir- flavor unadulterated and texture, tizing But tender skins, plump juiciness, appe- spoil. or bruise to likely more are they because storage long-term to suited less er flesh and thinner skins, making them have Also, fruits hybrids. heirloom soft- ductive, many produce lower yields than pro- quite are heirlooms some Though and long shelf life. ductivity, uniformity, disease-resistance, favor of characteristics that enhanced pro- in hybrids of breeding the in backseat a er and the fruit became harder. Flavortance shipping.took Tomato skins grew thick- ing, packing, refrigeration, and long-dis- “Whether the genes were passed down varieties as heirlooms define Purists Heirlooms can have their downside. their have can Heirlooms

rick wetherbee HEIRLOOM TOMATOES BY REGION Can’t decide which varieties to grow? We asked several experts to weigh in on their top regional favorites. The varietal de- scriptions follow on pages 34 and 35.

NORTHEAST Tim Stark grows about 100 varieties of tomatoes on 12 acres at Eckerton Hill Farm, near Lenhartsville, Pennsylvania. His top five: ‘Brandy- wine’, ‘’, ‘Eva Purple Ball’, ‘Green Giant’, and ‘Pineapple’.

SOUTHEAST Mike and Judy Cunning- ham started Country Gardens Farm and Nursery in 1982. Their top five: ‘Box Car Willie’, ‘’, ‘Cherokee Purple’, ‘German Johnson Pink’, and ‘Watermel- on Beefsteak’.

SOUTH Darrell and Lisa Merrell are growers based on the outskirts of Tulsa, Oklahoma. Among their top picks are ‘Arkansas Traveler’, ‘Cherokee Purple’, ‘Germaid Red’, ‘Royal Hillbilly’, and ‘Sioux’.

MIDWEST Glenn and Linda Drowns have been growing tomatoes for more than 40 years. The couple maintains 10 acres in seed production and evaluation at Sand Hill Preservation Center in Iowa. Their top four: ‘Kellogg’s Breakfast’, ‘Martino’s Roma’, ‘Tiffen Mennonite’, and ‘Ukrainian Heart’.

MOUNTAINS Colorado market grower Sue Oberle of Oberle Botanical farm in Fort Collins recommends ‘Bloody Butch- er’, ‘Cherokee Purple’, ‘Kellogg’s Break- fast’, and ‘Marmande’.

WEST Heirloom tomato expert Gary Ib- Top: ‘Watermelon Beefsteak’ is a meaty, pink-skinned variety with fruit that can weigh two sen of TomatoFest.com and founder of pounds or more. Above: ‘Pineapple’ is a variety with a sweet and fruity flavor. the Carmel TomatoFest gives top marks to ‘Gary Ibsen’s Gold’, ‘Julia Child’, ‘Kel- cially propagated seed is more likely to be toes” on pages 34 and 35), and many are logg’s Breakfast’, and ‘Paul Robeson’. accurate than the seed passed through the linked to a rich history or folklore all average gardener.” their own. ‘’, for exam- NORTHWEST As a former certified or- ple, a large, pink-fruited beefsteak, ganic market grower, my picks include POINTS OF DISTINCTION earned its name when, during the 1940s, ‘Black Prince’, ‘Caspian Pink’, ‘Chero- There are probably somewhere around M. C. Byles made enough money from kee Purple’, ‘Stupice’, and ‘’.

a thousand varieties of heirloom toma- selling the plants to pay off his $6,000 —K.W.

top: rob cardillo. bottom: rick wetherbee toes (see “Top-Rated Heirloom Toma- house mortgage.

January / February 2008 33 TOP-RATED HEIRLOOM TOMATOES Grouped by the color of their fruit, the following varieties offer a range of flavors, sizes, shapes, and cultural preferences. Average days from transplanting of seedlings to harvesting of tomatoes is given in parentheses.

RED VARIETIES earthy with a good acid/sweet balance. Dusky dark red skin ‘Bloody Butcher’ (65–70 days): Deep red, three- to four-ounce and red flesh. Good for cooler regions. fruits with full-bodied, creamy tomato flavor. Early producer, ‘Sioux’ (70–80 days): Prolific producer of two-and-a-half-inch, excellent quality and very little cracking. blemish-free red fruits with a slightly tart old-fashioned tomato fla- vor. Tolerates heat, pests, and disease. ‘Stupice’ (55 days): Early, cold-tolerant variety from the Czech Republic bears clusters of ping-pong-ball-size deep red fruits. Great flavor with a good blend of sweet ness and ‘Stupice’‘Stupice’ acidity.

‘Bloody‘Bloody Butcher’Butcher’ PINK / ROSE / PURPLE VARIETIES ‘Arkansas Traveler’ (85 days): Great hot weather producer of ‘Box Car Willie’ (80 days): Slightly flattened 10- to 16-ounce tasty, six- to eight-ounce rose-pink fruits with a low acid flavor. red fruits with an orange tinge. Dependably tasty, very juicy Tolerates heat and humidity. and abundant throughout the season. Disease resistant. ‘Brandywine’ (80 days): Big beefsteak- type Amish heir- loom with a rich, well-balanced blend of sweetness and acidity. Heavy pro- ducer in the North- east—not suited to hot climates. ‘Germaid Red’ (80 days): Rare variety with superb tomato ‘Arkansas‘Arkansas Traveler’Traveler’ flavor—sweet, rich, and juicy. Elongat- ‘Caspian Pink’ (75–85 ed beefsteak-type ‘Brandywine’‘Brandywine’ days): Intensely sweet with deep red fruits and rich Russian heir- weighing up to one pound. Produces prolifically. loom with large pink ‘Marmande’ (68 days): French favorite with traditional red fruits beefsteak-type fruits and distinctly rich and full-bodied flavor. Slightly flattened six- that rival ‘Brandy- to eight-ounce fruits are meaty and great for slicing. wine’ in popularity ‘Martino’s Roma’ (75 days): Superb, extremely prolific paste- and flavor. Great for type with richly flavored, three-inch-long meaty red fruits. cooler climates. Great for canning, salsas, sauces, and paste. ‘Cherokee Purple’ ‘Paul Robeson’ (75 days): Rich and robustly flavored fruits are (70–80 days): Medi- ‘Caspian‘Caspian Pink’Pink’

left, top to bottom: jerry pavia; rick wetherbee. right, top to bottom: jerry pavia; david cavagnaro; rick wetherbee

34 the American Gardener

um-large dusky rose fruits with well-balanced, complex fla- YELLOW / GOLD / ORANGE VARIETIES vor—winey-sweet and very intense. Highly productive and ‘Gary Ibsen’s Gold’ (75 days): Globe-shaped 14-ounce fruits are disease resistant. brilliant orange-gold with tropical fruit flavors and enough acid ‘Eva Purple Ball’ (70–74 days): German heirloom bears two- to balance to guarantee a burst of tomato flavor. three-inch round, dark ‘Kellogg’s Breakfast’ (80–90 days): Deep golden orange fruits purple-pink fruits; bal- with bright orange flesh and an exceptional sweet tangy flavor. anced flavor with Thin-skinned fruits have few seeds and are meaty throughout. creamy texture; disease resistant and very pro- ductive. ‘German Johnson Pink’ (75–80 days): Potato- leaf type with huge pink fruits averaging over one pound. Excellent low acid flavor and great texture; very prolific. ‘Julia Child’ (78 days): ‘Eva‘Eva PurplePurple Ball’Ball’ Deep pink, lightly-flut- ed, 10- to 12-ounce beefsteak fruits have an intensely rich tomato flavor with firm, juicy flesh. Potato-leaf plant is very productive. ‘Kellogg’s‘Kellogg’s Breakfast’Breakfast’ ‘Royal Hillbilly’ (80–90 days): Strain of ‘Hillbilly’, with fruits tinged deep pink to purple. Flavor is exquisite, with a complex blend of sweetness and tartness, snappy yet smooth. GREEN VARIETIES ‘Tiffen Mennonite’ (85 days): Large beefsteak-type pink fruits ‘Green Giant’ (85 days): Lime-green, one- to two-pound fruits with a rich, sweet-tangy flavor and smooth texture. Good yields. are deliciously sweet and one of the best tasting green toma- toes. Potato-leaved German heirloom is vigorous and prolific.

BLACK / MAHOGANY VARIETIES ‘Black Prince’ (70–80 days): Russian treasure bears salad-size, chestnut to mahogany colored fruits with an intense, distinc- tively rich flavor. Does well in cool climates.

STRIPED VARIETIES ‘Pineapple’ (85–90 days): Eye-catching bi-colored fruits streaked with red and yellow inside and out are exotically sweet with pineapple un- dertones. Very fruity. ‘Tigerella’ (75 ‘Tiffen‘Tiffen Mennonite’Mennonite’ days): Apricot-sized fruits are red with ‘Ukranian Heart’ (70 days): Semi-juicy, heart-shaped pink fruits stripes of yellow weighing up to two pounds are remarkably productive with a and orange. Excep- well-balanced fruity flavor. tionally lively flavor; ‘Watermelon Beefsteak’ (75 days): Amazingly big, pink-skinned extremely produc- fruits weighing two pounds or more are mild and meaty with tive vines are dis- purplish-red flesh. ease resistant. ‘Tigerella’‘Tigerella’

left, top to bottom (2), and top right: david cavagnaro. bottom right: rick wetherbee

January / February 2008 35 Sources for Tomato Seeds SAVING YOUR OWN SEEDS

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Mansfield, MO. (866) 653-7333. One of the advantages of saving your www.rareseeds.com. own seeds is that you can eventually adapt a strain of the heirloom to thrive Gary Ibsen’s TomatoFest, Carmel, CA. www.tomatofest.com. in your climate. The technique may differ among seed savers, but the goal Marianna’s Heirloom Seeds, Dickson, TN. (615) 446-9191. is the same—to remove the moist, www.mariseeds.com. sticky gelatinlike casing that encap- sulates the seeds and prevents them Sand Hill Preservation Center, Calamus, IA. (563) 246-2299. from sprouting inside the fruit. www.sandhillpreservation.com 1. Start by selecting fruits that best rep- Seed Savers Exchange, Decorah, IA. (563) 382-5990. www.seedsavers.org. resent the ideal qualities of the variety. 2. Crush the tomato and squeeze the Tomato Growers Supply Company, Fort Myers, FL. (888) 478-7333. pulp and seeds into an open-topped www.tomatogrowers.com. container, such as a bowl. 3. Set the tomato seed-filled con- Totally Tomatoes, Randolph, WI. (800) 345-5977. www.totallytomato.com. tainer in a warm spot and allow it to naturally ferment for three to five days or until it gets a stinky foam on Heirlooms feature a bit of top. Be sure to write the variety on the unexpected: Fruit can be the container. round, oval, elongated, flat- 4. Remove the filmy sludge that floats tened, ribbed, or even lumpy; to the top and dump the seeds into a some are shaped like pears, strainer; rinse well with cool water. acorns, strawberries, or sausages. 5. Spread out seeds onto a non-coat- And while red or yellow toma- ed paper plate, several layers of paper toes bring exciting color to the towels, coffee filters, or other ab- garden and table, heirloom of- sorbent material. Put seeds in a shel- ferings also include shades of tered area (not in the sun) with good gold, orange, pink, purple, deep air circulation for five to seven days or garnet, and rose as well as green, until thoroughly dry. chocolate brown, white, and 6. Label the seeds and store in an air- multicolored stripes. tight container with silica gel or a ta- Flavor varies from mellow blespoon of powered milk in a cool, to bold, with acidity levels dry, and dark location. ranging from naturally sweet to traditionally tart or classic full- bodied taste. Green varieties common red slicer when you can experi- generally have tangy citrus over- ence a cornucopia of flavor. This year, try tones, sometimes with a spicy- growing several heirloom varieties. You sweet flavor; yellow types tend to be mild Prolific ‘Yellow Pear’ is sweet and mild. may just discover a tasty old variety that and sweet; bicolored types such as ‘Pineap- becomes your new personal favorite. And ple’ or ‘Old German’ are often fruity; and Carmel TomatoFest®, Ibsen maintains if you save your seeds from year to year, black varieties such as ‘Black Prince’ and a seed bank of more than 650 heirloom you may develop a selection with its own ‘’ are complex and intense, varieties. More than 500 varieties of or- interesting features and flavors. often described as smoky and rich. ganic heirloom tomato seeds are avail- (For advice on site selection, soil Keep in mind that not all heirloom able online at www.tomatofest.com. preparation, and tomato-growing sug- tomatoes reach their full potential in all re- “Inherent in this uniqueness is an gestions, visit www.ahs.org and click on gions (see “Heirloom Tomatoes by Re- evolved adaptation to specific growing the link to a web special that you will find gion,” page 33). “Every heirloom variety conditions and climates,” Ibsen adds. on the contents page for this issue.) is genetically unique,” says tomato ex- pert Gary Ibsen. As a grower of organic DO TRY THIS AT HOME Kris Wetherbee and her husband, Rick, heirloom tomatoes in central California No matter where you live, there’s no rea- grow dozens of heirloom tomatoes in their

and founder of the widely popular son to limit your sensory experience to a garden in Oakland, Oregon. rob cardillo

36 the American Gardener