CS-Food & Drink.qxd 11/6/2008 7:49 PM Page 30 Food & Drink Eat and drink your way through town.
Just eat it The scoop on Delhi’s cuisine
Lala Duli Chand’s tasty kulfi treats. Photography Cherian Thomas. CS-Food &Drink.qxd11/6/20086:53PMPage32 Food & Drink The meat of the matter matter the of meat The food isn’tonlyaboutbutter a cityasoldours,surelyour in termsofaculinarynarrative?In SUVs, butwhatdowehavetooffer with netas,badebaapkabetasand own Delhi,we’rewell-stocked monuments andtheMetroinour the latter.We’vecheckedoff London andNewYorkperhapsof are examplesoftheformer, far andwide.ParisShanghai draw theculinarytravellerfrom making choicesavailablethat and intrinsictradition,orthrough either throughaneasilyavailable some degree,bygreatcuisines: Great citiesaredefined,atleastto Sonal Shah argues can’t havefuntrying, But thatdoesn’tmeanyou melange. out Delhi’sculinary towork trying hard It’s pretty Stirring thepot Cover story 2www.timeoutdelhi.net 32 . The niharispecialistKalluUstadinaction November 14–27 2008 As hesaid,“InCentralAsia,most Persian etc)andlocaltechniques. amalgam ofCentralAsian(Turkic, table), Delhicourtcuisinewasan activist SohailHashmi(seeOnthe much disappear. traces of“Sultanatefood”pretty it withpaan.Butthen,written the mealwithasharbatandending Battuta alsodescribesbeginning people seatedhierarchically. habit ofcommunaldining,with these rulersbroughtwiththemthe of Sultanatefeasts.Shewritesthat paraphrases Battuta’sdescriptions Kayasth MathurDelhifamily) Narain (whoisherselffroma Essential DelhiCookbook Battuta’s writing.Inher teenth centurytravellerIbn food inDelhicomefromthefour- chicken, qormaandkababs? According toeducatorand Some oftheearliestaccounts The , Priti ting openamelon.)Italsotalksof once becameteary-eyeduponcut- ruler missedthesesomuchthathe grapes toIndia.(Itappearsthe certain fruitslikemelonsand ma sources. Asectionofthe Ain-i-Akbari al documents:the food andcookinginvariousMugh- Mughals ate,therearereferencesto dhi orNizamicuisinethanwhatthe possibly moreinfluencedbyAwa- claim thatwhatwecallMughlaiis know todayasMughlaifood.” These twomixedtocreatewhatwe using gheeasanagent,wasadded. ns came,thetraditionofbhun-na, cook them.WhentheCentralAsia- meat arelargeandnotassoftwe limited useofspices.Thechunks and inanimalfat.Youhavevery food iscookedonspitsorinovens While mostscholarsandfoodies describes howBaburbrought and other,lessformal Baburnama Baburna- , the reach Delhi,astheyarenotmen- 1500s, butprobablytooklongerto India bythePortuguesein Chillies wereintroducedtoSouth only about20yearsafterthat. by about1830.Tomatoescame potatoes onlycametoNorthIndia newer additions.Narainwritesthat we takecompletelyforgranted,are ic today.Otheringredients,which varieties seemunimaginablyexot- specifications ofgoatandlamb more. The indeed, aren’tevenavailableany- varieties arenolongercooked,or Hashmi toldushowmanysaag ingredients hasdisappeared. measurements ofseveraldishes. stuffs, aswellfullrecipeswith with pricelistsforvariousfood- ba. The describes concoctionslikemurab- the localediblefloraandfauna Much ofthevarietythese Ain-i-Akbari Ain-i-Akbari has asection ’s regional
ANSHIKA VARMA CS-Food &Drink.qxd11/6/20087:47PMPage34 Food & Drink Chaat puja puja Chaat Bania community,accordingto chaat mayhavecomefromthe The hallowedtraditionofDelhi for Delhi’svegetariantraditions. and Khatrisarechieflyresponsible available treasuretroves. in theseunfortunatelyno-longer- Mathur foundsomeofherrecipes together byhousewives.Indeed, that werepossiblyoriginallyput Muslim ones–inUrducookbooks could befound–alongwith Kayasth recipesandmenuplans vegetables masqueradingasmeat. tions severaldishesthatfeatured vegetarian tradition:Narainmen- table.) Therewasalsoaninventive enced byMuslimones.(SeeOnthe food habitswereheavilyinflu- imperial courtsand,assuch,their ty werescribesandofficialsinthe Delhi’s sizeableKayasthcommuni- tions ofseveralcommunities. was andismadeupofthetradi- the bestrecorded,Delhicuisine tioned inthe 4www.timeoutdelhi.net 34 Banias, particularlyMarwaris, While Muslimcuisineisperhaps Kalmi andkachaluchutneycompletethepapdichaatatAshokChaatBhandar;DeepakDewan’sfruitcream(below) Ain-i-Akbari . November 14–27 2008 (kababs andoilycurries)ina old branchesserve“Mughlai” Al Jawahar Meat with. Happyexploring. caterers andbawarchistostart in puraniDilli,aswellalistof just mostpopularplacestoeatout most authentic,inventiveor compiled alistofsomethebest, city’s khanaispossible.We’ve quick courseintheevolutionofour But ifyoustartintheoldcity,a ple’s phonenumbers,obviously. can’t provideyouwithalistofpeo- be foundinpeople’shomes.We sheher ornewermigrantones–can tional” residentcommunitiesofthe cuisines –whetherfromthe“tradi- best examplesofanyDelhi’s scholar wespoketosaidthatthe since Partition. items havebeenaddedtothemix popularity ofchickenandtandoori frontier foodandtheattendant newer traditionofPunjabiand counterparts inthewalledcity.The alongside theirnon-vegetarian These streettraditionscontinue called homeforfamilyfeasts. Or, thekhomchawalaswouldbe over tokeepthesnacktraingoing. the storekeeperswouldcallthem and chaatfromstoretostore, their heads)wouldhawkkulfi carrying theirwaresinbasketson opinion thatkhomchawalas(gents several sources.Hashmiisofthe Uniformly, everyfood-loveror Jawahar’s newand midnight. MealfortwoRs300. m Gate 1,JamaMasjid(2326-9241). Bazaar MatiaMahal,opposite cuts arebetterthanKarim’s. Marryam Reshiiholdsthattheir family ofbutchers;foodcritic mi, Jawaharwasfoundedbya than Karim’s.AccordingtoHash- slightly morelaidbackfashion 3 questionsfor… and style. no changeinthefoodconcept in mid-2004.However,therewas Dilli KaAanganbecame the time? how didthemenuchangeat aurant’s namechange?And Why andwhendidtherest- Rakshit Sharma,chef,Aangan. Kallu Nihari Chawri Bazaar.Daily7am- Beloved nihariwala 65
COURTESY HYATT REGENCY CHERIAN THOMAS (2) known as“SuperMeatWale”.Try up SuperMeatStall,popularly Singh’s grandfatherandfatherset gurudwara SisGanj.In1966, in theundergroundmarketat Singh’s familyusedtosellswords midnight. MealfortwoRs300. m Gate 1,JamaMasjid(2326-9880). ian, BazaarMatiaMahal,opposite the famousburras. of differencetothepopularity the truestory,itwon’tmakeajot then said,‘shahihain’.”Whatever this isafamilyofkababchiswho himself. ItisinGaliKababian– “Karim hasverycleverlyinvented Babur, Hashmitoldusthat soldier-turned-personal cookfor Karim progenitorwasanArabian her book Charmaine O’Brienmentionsin only byvirtueofreputation.While lentils). fried potatopattiesfilledwith seeds); andtawaalootikki(griddle- marinated withcreamandcarom paneer tikka(cottagecheese tandoor); kalimirchaurajwainka Kashmiri saffronandcookedinthe (chicken breastmarinatedin streets ofoldDelhi;murgzafrani and similartokababsthatsellinthe and caromseeds),verytraditional with freshcoriander,garammasala ki seekh(lambminceskewered example ofDelhi’scuisine:Aangan The followingdishesareafine Any particularpicks? courses. food, includingkababsandmain emphasis onavarietyofvegetarian Muslim andMughal,withan which isamixofBania,Kayasth, It servestraditionalDelhicuisine, hotels? restaurants infivestar apart fromotherIndian What setsAangan’sfood Karim’s Hotel Super MeatStall Daily 6-8am,6-9pm. Thelewali Gali,Sangtarashan. m Behram Khan.Daily5-7pm. via ChuriwalanandaskforTiraha Lal Mian,JamaMasjid,approach the dish. Hindu Raoforaspicierversionof gests HajiNoorakinihariatBara stuff runsoutfast.Vermasug- you’ll havetogetthereearly;this saint, writerRahulVerma)–but of Delhifoodies(andtheirpatron ki nihari Hyatt Regency Delhi, Bhikaji Cama Bhikaji Delhi, Regency Hyatt Place, Ring Road (2679-1234). Road Ring Place, Noon-3pm; 7-11.30pm. Noon-3pm; Chawri Bazaar.Daily7am- Chawri Bazaar. Sonal Shah Sonal 3576 BaraHinduRao, Kallu Nihari Flavours ofDelhi The classic,if Haji Noora 16 GaliKabab- 180 Chhatta Avtar that the CS-Food & Drink.qxd 11/6/2008 6:55 PM Page 36
their hot, spicy curries of mutton tadka along with your unlimited pieces or keema with phulkas, or thali. Verma also recommends Gunjan Goela the mutton pulao with gravy. 937 nearby Annapurna. We also HC Sen Road, Chandni Chowk, like New Soni’s thali of unlimited the same. It’s the experience that near Fountain, next to HSBC dal, aloo-tamatar and phulka matters. I would have to recreate ATM (6990-2920). m Chandni and limited daily sabzi, raita and the pots and pans, the ambience, Chowk. Daily 10am-9pm. sweet. 483 Haider Quli Corner, the style of serving… Weddings Ustad Moinudeen Rahul below Andhra Bank, Chandni even 40 years ago had limited Verma’s pick of the kababchis. He Chowk (2398-7576). m Chandni menus but huge quantities. The vouched that “the seekh kabab is Chowk. Daily 10.30am-6pm; nai would go stand on the street very soft, not rubbery like you get 6-11pm. Annapurna Guest House corner and call out the invitees. Guests could bring family and in most places”. And it’s not made 680 Curch Mission Road, Fateh- puri (2396-6680). m Chandni friends – the event was for the of mutton. Gali Qasim Jaan, Lal whole mohalla. It was a community Kuan, in front of Hamdard Chowk. Daily 10.30am-3pm, experience. Today it is not. It is Dawakhana. m Chawri Bazaar. 6.30 -11pm. New Soni 5568 Nai eating for yourself. Whether the m Daily noon-8.30pm. Sarak (2393-6143). Chandni person next to you has a full plate or Chowk.Mon-Sat 11am-4pm, 7pm- not doesn’t matter. 11pm. Chacha Di Hatti This chhole- What’s your favourite place bhaturawala staple is not strictly to eat in Delhi-6? How about
Food & Drink Vegetarian within the old city, but according in New Delhi? meals to Verma, Kamala Nagar was In puraani Dilli, my favourite place where the first generation of for bedmi-aloo and nagori-halwa is Adarsh Bhojanalaya The migrants out of purani Dilli Shyam Sweets in Barshabulla near few sit-down places to eat ghar shifted to in the 1950s. Limited Nai Sarak. I also love mattra and ka khana out in the old city supply, so get there early. kulcha in Hauz Qazi. For chaat and are Marwari-style bhojanalayas. 32 Bungalow Road, Delhi sweets, it’s only old Delhi. Kamala Verma recommended Adarsh University, behind Kirori Mal Nagar is also good for chaat. New to us, despite its lack of good College. m Vishwavidyalaya. Sheher ka khana caterer. Delhi is good for snacky things: seating. Order the separate special chhole bhature in Bengali Market; Daily 9.30am-3pm. What is your own cooking cold coffee in D’Paul’s; Embassy background? does an excellent chicken steak; Ours is one of the old families of Wenger’s is unbeatable for cakes. Delhi – my great-grandfather started China Kitchen at the Hyatt is ideal. his watch business and our family For Indian, you get a good meal at was known as ghadiwalas in the old Fire at The Park. city. Cooking has been handed down to me from my grandmother, Name a definitive Delhi dish. my mother, father and aunts. We One mitthai that’s almost disap- were a joint family of 40-45 people peared is ghiya ka lachha. Only one living together. My grandmother guy in old Delhi that I know makes it and aunts would cook and us for me, occasionally and with a lot of children would help out. drama. And, of course, daulat ki All the fine techniques are lost chaat, which has nothing chaat-like now… There’s a Muslim technique about it. There is something similar of cutting onions to a fine shred, by in Lucknow [malai makhan] and hand, without changing the position Hyderabad [nimmish], but only in of the hand; those nuances are lost. Delhi is it called that. Halwa-nagori That style of cooking, with a mortar is another one – people eat halwa and pestle – the imam bastak, kutti, everywhere but only here with chakki… I remember when my nagori. Sonal Shah mother would say, “today we have To contact Gunjan Goela for catering to grind salt.” And it wouldn’t be a call 98113-49055 or 92120-35323. small amount, but about 10 kilos. See page 40 for more catering options. How did you start catering? Bengali Sweets House 27-37 Beng- I was sitting with a few friends about ali Market (2331-9224). m Bara- 20 years ago and someone said, khamba Road. Daily 7am-11pm. “our Punjabi khana is so good”, and China Kitchen Hyatt Regency, Bhikaji someone else said “our Gujarati Cama Place, Ring Road (6677- khana is so good”. I felt, what about 1334). Daily noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm. our Dilli ka khana? What the hell is D’Paul’s 22 Janpath Bhawan, it? Later, I spoke to Rajeev Talwar, Janpath (2332-8214). m Rajiv who was managing Dilli Haat at that Chowk. Daily 9.30am-7.30pm. time, and we did a festival to Embassy D-11 Connaught Place showcase puraani Dilli ka khana. It (4151-7556). m Rajiv Chowk. Daily went on for three days and 26,000 10-am-11pm. people attended. I took it forward Fire The Park Hotel, 15 Parliament from that. Street, opposite Jantar Mantar (2374-3000). m Rajiv Chowk. Daily How different would a 12.30-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am. wedding you’re catering for Shyam Sweets See listing under today be from such an “Makhan Lal Tikka Ram” on page 38. occasion 100 years ago? Wenger’s A-16 CP, Inner Circle CHERIAN THOMAS (2) If I was to create the same menu, (2332-4373). m Rajiv Chowk. Daily Give piece a chance Shahi tukda in Bazaar Matia Mahal the food actually remains almost 10.30am-7.45pm.
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Kake Di Hatti This nondescript but famous eatery was started about 63 years ago by owner Gurdeep Singh’s great- grandfather. Kake’s lunch thali is minimal but memorable, the rotis simply enormous, the dal makhani legendary, and the 11 kinds of stuffed paratha less greasy than the ones in Parathewali Gali. 654 Church Mission Road, Fatehpuri (98109-09754). m Chandni Chowk. Daily 7.30am-12.30pm. Makhan Lal Tikka Ram This one is the place to try a Delhi breakfast favourite: bedmi-aloo. Almost before you enter the old city from the north, in the midst of the auto parts market opposite Food & Drink St James Church, is a little shop whose board reads “Makhan Lal Tika Ram – mltr”, but which has for years been known as Mitthan Ki Bedmi (despite the fact that the gentleman at the counter insists that Mitthan’s sweet shop closed
down circa 1975 and all that re- CHERIAN THOMAS (2) mains of it is Mitthan Motors three On the money Monu Singh offers daulat ki chaat shops down). Strictly speaking, it’s a sweetshop, but it has a tiny Bazaar (2326-8087). m Chawri Gali, Chandni Chowk (98116- Outside Baraf Wali Gali, Kinari m m balcony into which you can cram Bazaar. Daily 6.30am-10pm. Shiv 02460). Chandni Chowk. Daily Bazaar. Chandni Chowk. Mon- yourself (along with about seven Mishtan Bhandar 375 Kucha Ghasi 9am-midnight. Sat noon-8pm. other people) and eat fantastic Ram, Chandni Chowk (2392- Sultan Kullewala Kulle is a true bedmis (Rs 7 a plate). Served with 1406). m Chandni Chowk. Daily Delhi snack invented about 50 a mixed aloo-chhole ki sabzi and 6am-10pm. years ago. Today, Sultan’s grand- khatte aam ki launji, two of these Nirmal Restaurant Try this Snacks and son Sanjay sells the chaat in a are a meal. Try their matthri and alternative to the famous fried busy gali. The chaat itself is a nagori-halwa as well. If you’re in breads at Pandit Babu Ram Devi chaat basket of peeled potato, filled with the Chawri Bazaar area, try Ram anardana, boiled channa and fine Dayal and its ilk in Parathewali Ashok Chaat Bhandar This Swarup’s or Shyam Sweets for Gali. “Asha Ram ke parathe” strips of ginger, and the whole more of the same. If you’re closer award-winning chaatwala (as sprinkled with a number of (named for the original owner opposed to the other Ashok across to Chandni Chowk, head to Shiv three generations ago) are richly homemade masalas. Be warned Mishtan Bhandar – an institution the road) has kalmi vada and though, when Sanjay asks you stuffed and include some of the kachalu chutney to make the chaat as much for its bedmi as for its best paneer parathas (Rs 16) how spicy you like your kulle, say pop with flavour. Ashok Chaat political celebrity client list. 1259- around. Even better, there are medium, unless you’re readying Bhandar 3611 Hauz Qazi Chowk, 60 Bara Bazaar, Kashmere Gate three large rooms to eat in – with a for a blast. Cheera Khana, Roshan entrance of Bazaar Sita Ram (3255-9415). m Kashmere Gate. view across the Town Hall chowk. Pura, Nai Sarak (2328-2848). (2382-7740). m Chawri Bazaar. Daily 5.30am-10.30pm. Ram 756 Chandni Chowk, opposite m Chawri Bazaar. Mon-Sat Daily 11am-9pm. Swarup 3284 Bazaar Sita Ram Town Hall. m Chandni Chowk. 1-6pm. Rs 20 for eight. Known locally as (2395-5569). m Chawri Bazaar. Daily 6.30am-midnight. Natraj Café Pandit “bank ki pakodi”, the dahi bhallas Daily 6am-10pm. Shyam Sweets Babu Ram Devi Dayal Parathewali 114 Chowk Barshabulla, Chawri (Rs 20) served here are well-known beyond the walled city as well. Sweets The dahi is the winning factor: it’s perfectly balanced between sweet Afreen & Zayed Sweets One and tangy. They do aloo tikkis in of a couple of shahi tukda walas desi ghee as well and have a full around the Jama Masjid/Matia menu and upstairs seating every Mahal area. Delhi’s most unholy day but Sunday. 1396 Chandni triumvirate: bread, cream and a Chowk, next to Central Bank of swimming pool of ghee. Near India (6576-4631, 98111- Hussain Chicken Corner, Jama 67400). m Chandni Chowk. Masjid (93502-17460). m Chawri Daily 10am-7pm. Bazaar. Daily noon-midnight. Padam Chaat Bhandar Daulat Ki Chaat No, not chaat, Caterer Gunjan Goela’s and it isn’t sold by a man named favorite golgappas, served, as Daulat, but this soft whipped milk she put it, “with nakhra”. topped with kesar-flavoured Usually stationed nearby, just whipped milk, ground brown outside Naugharana, is another sugar, pista and varq is the golguppa cart with colourful Chandni Chowk foodie’s holy Breakfast special Bedmi -aloo palak and chukandar golguppas. grail. Monu Singh and his
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khomcha can be found Mon-Sat 9am-7pm at Dariba Kalan; Sun 9am-7pm at the intersection of Parathewali Gali and Kinari Bazaar (98731-32271/98738- 41912). Rs 10 per plate. Deepak Dewan Fruit Cream This sweet little red cart can be found floating around Dariba and Kinari Bazaar. Within it is the most delicious thing: pieces of banana, pineapple and apple sunk in soft cream. Daily noon- 8pm. Rs 10 per cup. Giani Di Hatti Started in 1951 by Lyallpur immigrant Giani Gur- charan Singh, this rabri falooda joint soon expanded to shakes, moong dal halwa and ice cream. Food & Drink Pretty soon it expanded to other parts of the city as well. Church Mission Road, Fatehpuri (2393- 6174). m Chandni Chowk. Daily 11am-midnight. Also caters. Hazari Lal Jain Stop by here for all your khurchan, malai roll and malai laddoo needs. 2225 Kinari CHERIAN THOMAS (2) Bazaar, Chandni Chowk (2325- Baap ki dal Giani Gurcharan Singh’s descendant, dishing out mooong dal halwa at Giani Di Hatti 3992). m Chandni Chowk. Mon- Sat 7am-midnight. m Chawri Bazaar. Daily noon- (established in 1790) on Chandni we’ve listed above will cater Lala Duli Chand Naresh 8pm. Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfiwale Chowk itself to Shireen Bhawan events (just call and ask), there are Gupta Across the street from 1165-66 Kucha Pati Ram, Bazaar tucked away in Chitli Qabar. In a number of bawarchis and cat- better-known and older Kuremal’s Sita Ram (2323-2430, 98105- between are Annapurna Bhandar erers who cook for parties. You’ll kulfi dukaan. According to the att- 40105). m Chawri Bazaar. Mon- (the second Bengali sweets shop in have to go once to discuss your endant at Duli’s, these two shops Sat noon-8pm. sheher, established after Kamala requirements – you’ll be given a (and a few others in the area) Old Famous Jalebiwala The Sweets closed in 1940), Chaina shopping list and you’ll have to supply much of Delhi with kulfi. name speaks for itself at this Ram in Fatehpuri, Kanwarji’s come back to pick up your food. Duli supplies to the Ashok Hotel, century-old counter. They also (from 1830, known for its dalbiji) We’ve been assured the effort is the Taj, Bengali Market and Sagar have samosas, but it’s the rope- and others. Traditional Delhi worth it. and is 40 years old, he told us. like jalebis (even bigger jalebas sweets that are commonly Babu Khan South Delhi’s old There are 76 items on their menu available on request) that steal the available are pista or kaju lauj, standby for biryani, supposed to card – not bad for a room with a show. 1795 Chandni Chowk, habshi halwa (brown, burnt-milk be descended from Shahjahan’s freezer and a couple of plastic corner of Dariba (2325-6973, halwa), gond halwa and laddoo, bawarchis. Good in a pinch. Matka chairs. Don’t miss their fantastic 98110-20546). m Chandni sohan halwa and ghee ghewar (in Pir, next to Pragati Maidan (2337- stuffed kulfis (apple, orange, Chowk. Daily 8am-10pm. the winter). Ghantewala 1862 1454). m Pragati Maidan. Daily mango, kiwi and more). 934 Halwais Shahjahanabad boasts Chandni Chowk (2328-0490). 8am-8pm. Kucha Pati Ram, Bazaar Sita Ram of several historical sweet shops – m Chandni Chowk. Daily 8am- Gunjan Goela Daughter of an (2323-5926, 98102-02990). from well-known Ghantewala 9pm. Shireen Bhawan 1466 Chitli old Delhi family, Goela caters Qabar, Jama Masjid (98187- sheher ka khana for weddings and 93124). m Chawri Bazaar. Daily parties. She can also arrange 8am-9pm. Annapurna Bhandar khomchawallas for chaat and 1463 Chandni Chowk (2396- desserts from the old city. See m 2050, 2386-8466). Chandni interview on page 36. Call (98113- Chowk. Mon-Sat 8am-8.30pm, 49055, 92120-35323). Sun 8am-noon. Chaina Ram Sindhi Hakim Makes excellent qorma Halwai 6499-6470 Fatehpuri and comes recommended by both Chowk, Fatehpuri (2395-0747). m Goela and Verma. Rodgran, Lal Chandni Chowk. Daily 7am- Kuan. Head past the Hamdard 8.30pm. 1972-73 Ch- Kanwarji’s Dawakhana, reach a corner with a andni Chowk, corner of Parathe- man selling gajak, turn left and wali Gali (2326-1318). m Chandni ask. m Chawri Bazaar. Chowk. Daily 9am-9pm. Idris Sohail Hashmi recommend- ed Idris’ qorma and biryani to us. Churiwalan, opposite Metro Guest Catering and House, 639 Churiwalan, near Jama Masjid. m Chawri Bazaar. cooking SM Zaki Based in Civil Lines. Recommended by Goela. Qorma, Besides the fact that several of the biryani and nihari for under ten Dona delights Nagori-halwa chaatwalas and halwais that people. Call (98991-06206).
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