CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Central Switzerland Switzerland Central 212 © Lonelyplanetpublications Reminiscent Ofvenice

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Central Switzerland Switzerland Central 212 © LonelyPlanetPublications reminiscent ofVenice. however, Fortunately, itnever orbusy. getsthatchoked main drawcards. Sometimes,whentourguidesinmedievalcostumeappear,it’seven vaguely water, skyline,it’soneofthecountry’s withmedievalbridges,oldsquares andastriking shore tobeenjoyed. toshore, andskiing andthere’s plentyofscenichiking and theStanserhorn,isoneofmainpastimeshere. steamers Meanwhile,lake bobfrom inhabit thesidesofMtRigi. According tolegend,theghostofPontiusPilate hauntsMtPilatus, whilemischievouselves made Einsiedelnaplaceofpilgrimagetothepagansuperstitionssurroundingseveral peaks. Schwyz stillproudlydisplaysthatoriginal constitution. revered spotwhere astheexact Switzerland wassignedintobeingin1291;thevillageof have shotanapplefromhis son’sheadandgoneontherun.The nearbyRütlimeadowis and myths. cornerisWilliamTell Itsfar-east country,where thelegendarypatriotissaid to the shores Uri,andCentral ofLake Switzerland istheguardianofmanySwissfoundingtales of Alpinevillagesandlarger theplacefeel townsmake more lived-in andfamiliar. LucerneLake atthecore oftheregion are greener andlessjagged,agreater number hasamore soothingbeauty. Thecal heartland mountainshunchingconspiratoriallyaround In itsownwayasgorgeous asthe Bernese Oberland,Switzerland’s geographicalandpoliti-

HIGHLIGHTS Of course,asthelargest town,LucerneOf itselfremains pivotaltotheexperience. Builton Taking themsuchasMtTitlis acablecarupthesepanoramicmountains,andotherslike Interesting storiesattachthemselves tomanyplaces,fromtheChristianmiraclethat theSwissnationwassignedhereThe thatkick-started pact more than700yearsago on

POPULATION: 695,058 and climbingthe 1800m uptoanunforgettable sunriseontopofWaking Mt Titlis Enjoying amountainday-triptothepeak of Taking acruisearound Museum Seeing twosidesofPablo, inthe Admiring the ( p216) MtRigi 26) and (p216) 20) or ( p230) Kapellbrücke (p223) city wall Mt Pilatus Sammlung Rosengart Lake Lucerne (p216) ( p214 ) inLucerne ( p222 )

AREA: 4484 SQKM Picasso ( p222)

Sammlung Rosengart Picasso Museum; Kapellbrücke; City Wall; Mt Pilatus Lucerne

LANGUAGE: GERMAN Lake Mt Titlis Mt Rigi tact the tourist office inLucerne( thetouristoffice tact p214 ). Gotthard Pass. tip reaches intotheAlpsasfarSt Switzerland isfairlyflat,butasouthern (Zugersee). Inthenorthandwest,Central rural cantonof Zug Lake Zug,containing in thisregion isSwitzerland’ssmallest Nidwalden andObwalden).Alsoincluded of subdividedintothehalf-cantons self cerne, Uri,Schwyz andUnterwalden (it- is surroundedbythefourcantonsof Lu- ofLake theFourForest which Cantons), Lucerne(theVierwaldstättersee orLake hasatitsheartzerland (Zentralschweiz) touristregionThe official Swit- of Central &Information Orientation www.lonelyplanet.com (47km) Bern To CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Interlaken Langenthal For informationontheentire region, con- Langnau N1 Huttwil Wiggen Willisau (Brienzersee) Lake Brienz Zofingen N1 LUZERN Wolhusen AARGAU Sursee N2 OBWALDEN Sempacher Reinach Malters See BERN Sarner See Ruswill (2120m) Pilatus Sarnen Baldegger Meiringen UNTERWALDEN Mt Hochdorf Eschenbach See Engstlenalp Hallwiler Ulrichen Innertkirchen See Grimsel CENTRAL SWITZERLAND •• Orientation &Information CENTRAL SWITZERLAND••Orientation Stanserhorn Pass Muri (1898m) Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee) Hergiswil Stans

Lake Lucerne Jochpass

NIDWALDEN Reuss Oberwald I TALY Furka Gletsch Pass OBWALDEN Engelberg Airfield Lucerne/Buochs Weggis (1797m) Mt Rigi Mt Titlis(3239m)

Tunnel Susten h ble whenever you’re staying anywhere in this you’reble whenever anywherethis staying in the remainder. faresdays respectively, for andhalf-price itprovidesstations, travel fortwo/five the Lucernetouristoffice andatallboat Tell-Pass want toconsiderpurchasing theregional (both includelake journeys),you might ( p331). the region isontheWilliamTell Express directions. Aninteresting waytoleave and railconnectionsare excellentinall The nearest airportisZürich, whileroad &Around There Getting Pass (Zugersee) Lake Zug Gotthard N14 Tunnel St Gotthard Göschenen guestcard,availa-The Vierwaldstättersee If youdon’thave aSwissorEurailPass Attinghausen Apr-Oct) Pass

(Urnersee) Zug

Surenen- Lake Uri Tunnel Brunnen Arth pass Baar See LakeLucerneMap(p222) Ägerisee Goldau N2

Wädenswil ZUG

(www.tell-pass.ch; per7/15daysSfr140/188; Reuss Reuss forrailandboattravel. Sold by To Zürich Andermatt Oberalp (7km) Pass Gemsstock Schwyz Kl Mythen Flüelen (2963m) Airolo Altdorf N4 (1811m) ZÜRICH Einsiedeln Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) Stäfa Gr Mythen 12miles 20km 0 0 (1898m) URI Biberbrugg To Lugano TICINO (60km) Rapperswil Sihlsee GRAUBÜNDEN SCHWYZ Wägitaler Disentis/Mustér Klausen Pass See Braunwald GLARUS ST GALLEN Niederurnen Ziegelbrücke Klöntaler N2 See Glarus Näfels Linthal 213

N3 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND 15min Sfr4; 10am-4pm Sat) Sfr4; Internetcafé Stadtbibliothek ACCESSINTERNET Pass Museum Guide Luzern DISCOUNT CARDS Buchhandlung Schweizerhof BOOKSHOPS Information ern side. Hauptbahnhof onthesouth- (trainstation) riverbank, of withinwalkingdistance the towncentremedieval isonthe northern sake lake, straddlingthe ReussRiver. The The cityisonthewestern edge of itsname- Orientation looked back. position beganattractingtourists.It’snever centrecharming medieval anditsfabulous on thetraderoute over theAlps.Thenits stop madeitsfortuneasanessential lights’) or‘thecityofLucerne (LuzerninGerman, the very of essence Switzerland. brücke (ChapelBridge) toconnote isenough small fishingvillage anditswoodenKapell- ofmountains myth–apicture of thisonce byasceniclake, surroundedby Lapped sent. describethecity’slocationasheaven-might a chapel, anatheist andingoodweathereven showed Lucerne’sfirst where settlers tobuild hasitthatanangel Legend withalight 435m pop 57,817/elevation LUCERNE in Lucerneandelsewhere. cars, andreductions admission onmuseum cable certain ing facilities,10%to50%off includevariousdiscountsonsport- Benefits offer it. it ifyouraccommodationdoesn’t region, isworthhaving; youshould askfor 214 rental and lake cruises. rental andlake facilities,car discounts onmuseumentry,somesporting Tue-Fri, 8am-4pmSat) Tue-Fri, 2; Schweizerhofquai all museums;validforonemonth. Between the13thand19thcenturies, Between h LUCERNE ••Orientation 1.30-6pm Mon, 10am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, to9pmThu, 1.30-6pm Mon,10am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, h

Stampedbyyourhotel,thisentitlesyouto (peradult/childSfr29/14.50)Free entryto ( 9am-9pm) %

h (Town Library;Löwenplatz11;perhr (Town 041 41077 27; Löwengraben31;per 1.30-6.30pm Mon,8.30am-6.30pm

( % 041 4102371; of the train station. Offers city walking tours. citywalking of thetrainstation.Offers fromeitherZentralstrasse orfromPlatform3 Apr) Reached 9am-1pmSat&SunNov- 8.30am-5.30pmMon-Fri, Oct, 7.30pm Sat&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Sep, & to6.30pmMay Zentralstrasse 5; 0412271727;www.luzern.org; reservations ings, movie-storyboard-style of sequence paint- theme here Meglinger’s isartistCaspar paintings are alloriginal.The roof panels’ but its1408structure and17th-century ther downtheriver isdarker andsmaller, MEDIEVAL BRIDGES Sights Tourism Luzern TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST Hauptbahnhof Hauptbahnhof. There are numerousATMs allaroundthe MONEY Center Permanence Medical MEDICAL SERVICES Wash Jet LAUNDRY of others. of reminder asaconstant tained of theloss bridge. themhave Gapsbetween re- been and have replaced been ateitherendof the of were these also rescued fromtheblaze tory andmythology.Fortunately, some30 fromSwiss events his- depicting important ated byHeinrich Wägmannin1614and painted roof panelsthatlineitsceiling,cre- tions, rebuilt fire after adisastrous in1993. and gabledroof are modernreconstruc- tower remains itssides original.However waterthe 14thcenturyandoctagonal cerne’s mostpotent symbol.Itdates from the ReussRiver intheOldTown,isLu- The ment, Hauptbahnhof; Sat) Bythetrainstation. & Bahnhofplatz; 9am-5pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) 12.30pm &2.30-6.30pmMon-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pmFri, The The bridge isfamousforthetriangular, Kapellbrücke The Dance of Death Spreuerbrücke Spreuerbrücke

( %

041 2400151;Bruchstrasse28; h h

(enquiries (enquiries ( ( % % 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, h (ChapelBridge), crossing 041 2273646; 041 229 95 23; cnr Bahnhofstrasse 041 2299523;cnrBahnhofstrasse 24hr) (Spreuer Bridge) fur- %

www.lonelyplanet.com

( 041 2271717,hotel % . 041 2111444;Base- h 8.30am-6pm h 8.30am- ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ www.lonelyplanet.com (115km) Bern (103km); To Basel 4 6 1 3 2 10 5 LUCERNE N2 Gutsch (150m) To Château SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hotel Alpha...... Hotel...... Zytturm...... Wachturm...... SNG BoatRental...... Schirmerturm...... Sammlung Rosengart...... Picasso Museum...... Naturhistorisches Museum...... Mirror Maze...... (see9) Männliturm...... Löwendenkmal...... Kunstmuseum...... (see 12) Kultur undKongresszentrum...... Historisches Museum...... Gletschergarten...... Bourbaki Panorama...... Alpineum...... Stadtbibliothek...... (see 8) Schweizerhof Buchhandlung...... Permanence MedicalCenter...... Main PostOffice...... Luzern Tourism...... Jet Wash...... Internetcafé...... üshanFnclr...... A3 Gütschbahn Funicular...... Town Old (Water Spikes) 0 AC

Nadelwehr Baselstr Mühlenplatz Klosterstr Spreuerbrücke

Löwengraben 33 Kasernenplatz 2

Mariahilfgasse 1 Zähringerstr 38 31 Reussbrücke ὈὈ ὈὈ 15

To Hospital St-Karli-Quai Wein Rössligasse 28 (600m) 14

Hirschengraben markt Reuss 23 Bruchstr 27 25 11 100 m

34 Hirschenplatz Pilatusstr Hallwilerweg Unter der Egg Graben 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 23 22 See Enlargement

32 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Kornmarkt

Reuss

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g 46 40 Bur Löwengraben Museggmauer Weggisgasse B4 C4 B2 B2 C2 B2 C3 B1 A3 A2 D1 D3 B3 C1 D1 C1 C2 C3 C3 C3 A3 A1 str Palace Rittersche Theilingasse Mariahilfgasse 39 B 43 Schiff...... EATING KKL WorldCafé...... (see 12) Jazzkantine...... Hug...... Hotel Restaurant A1 Hofgarten...... (see 26) Heini...... Bodu...... Tourist Hotel...... Hotel zumRebstock...... Hotel Waldstätterhof...... Hotel Löwengraben...... Hotel Krone...... Hotel Hofgarten...... Hotel desBalances...... Hotel desAlpes......

36 (3km); Stansstad(11km);

Franziskanerkirche

Zeppelin Flights(16km) Rössligasse

Reussbrücke 37 Obergrun 16 Kapellgasse

Alphornbau Stocker ὈὈ Ὀ 20 (3km); Schwieghof dstr Weinmarkt Breakfast (400m); Rathausquai To TheBedand 21 44 Jesuitenkirche

Falkenplatz Grend 35 Sternenplatz Kapellplatz

Kapellbrücke 24 42 elstr 18

Habsburgerstr 17 Kapellgasse

Theat e rstr Musseggstr Bundesstr Rathausquai

Bahnhofstr SYHA Hostel(1.5km);

Neuweg Mythenstr Grend To Rotsee(1.5km); Waldstätterstr

Pilatusstr Kapellbrücke Sedel (1.5km); ὈὈὈ Zug (29km)

22 Frankenstr

elst

Sempacherstr Neustadtstr r 34 36 35 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 Hertenste

B2 Löwenplatz B1 B1 B1 A2 D2 C3 A1 A1 D2 B2 B1

4 Seebrücke

29 Langensandbrücke Zentralstr Hauptbahnhof instr 3

Schweizerhofquai6

TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING ao...... B1 Manor...... Lake CruiseDepartures...... Flea Market...... Schüür...... Restaurant Stadtkeller...... Rathaus Bräuerei...... Pravda...... Penthouse...... (see 42) Loft...... ABC ClubMixx...... Wirtshaus Taube...... Wirtshaus Galliker...... 19 Zürichstr

Bahnhof- platz Denkmalstr 7 9 5

Fruttstr 47

Alpenstr Tri

ὈὈ ὈὈ bschenstr (Vierwaldstättersee) 45 13

Geissen Europa-

Frohburgstr platz 0 0 8

Lake Lucerne

12 St-Leodegar-Str Löwenstr

steinri Boat Quays

Pension VillaMaria(1.5km);

26

Inseliquai To PalaceLuzern(400m);

To Richard

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Museum Wagner (1.2km) Verkehrshaus (1.5km); pu LUCERNE Strandbad Lido(2km)

Haldenstr Camping Lido(2km);

30 zin

D

er Nationalquai weg Hofkirche To Backpackers 0.1 miles Montana To Hotel 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 200 m (300m) Lucerne (700m)

215 C3 B3 D5 B1 B1 B4 D2 B4 B3 A3

41 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND with Sammlung Rosengart Sfr18/16; with SammlungRosengart 33; Furrengasse 21;adult/student&seniorSfr8/6,combined a finehandfulof pictures byMarc Chagall. zanne, Kandinsky, MiroandModigliani, Paul upstairs you’llfindworksbyCe- Klee; ofa selection sketches andsmallpaintingsby to theSpanishmaster. In Picasso’s, itsgroundfloorisentirely devoted aSwissartdealerandfriendof Rosengart, art. Showcasing theworksretained byAngela asignificantamountof tain Picasso’sown uniquely revealing series. home. It’sa with hisfamilyintheirCannes picture of thelast17years of Picasso’slife David DouglasDuncancreate acaptivating lover andfather. Nearly200photographs by portrait of theartistasanimpish craftsman, ceramics andsketches, thisisprincipallya includeafew itdoes man’s works.Although if you’re oneof theoccasionally over-eager to bring out yourinnerchild (or inner bully tors andotherinteractive exhibitsdesigned found alongsidespace rockets, simula- flight not connected totherampartswalkway). descend the to retrace yoursteps. Youcanalsoascendand enter, andthe the tween beyond.Awalkwayisopenbe- mountains views over Lucerne’srooftops tothelake and Museum inthehuge, family-orientedcased Planes, trainsandautomobiles are show- VERKEHRSHAUS h student Sfr15/9,combinedwithPicasso Sfr18/16; Museum Pilatusstrasse 10;adult/ 220 1660;www.rosengart.ch; the contrast, By SAMMLUNG ROSENGART Don’t arrive atthe PICASSO MUSEUM From itsmedieval MUSEGGMAUER &CHÂTEAU GUTSCH 216 h trasse 5;adult/child/rail-passholder/studentSfr24/10/12/22; sion free; 11am-5pm Nov-Mar) where there are alsobreathtaking views. each way)continuestorunupthesummit, theGütschbahnHowever, funicular(Sfr3 Gutsch At thetimeof writing,thehilltop 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-5pmNov-Mar) 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pmNov-Mar) 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, LUCERNE ••Sights hotel was closed, itsfate hotel unknown. wasclosed, h

( % 8am-7pm Apr-Oct) Schirmerturm 0848 852020;www.verkehrshaus.org; Lidos- Zytturm Wachturm expectingtofindmanyof the Rosengart Collection Collection Rosengart Picasso Museum Museggmauer Museggmauer or , fromwhere youhave , there are marvellous , there are marvellous (tower),where you Männliturm the basement, there’s there’s the basement, h 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, (city wall;admis-

( % . Theyare (the latter (thelatter

does Transport Transport 041 410 35 041 41035 Château Château ( % con- 041 041 120m above thecomplex(call air balloon,theHi-Flyer,willtake youup in goodweather,apermanentlymoored hot- sculptures bySwissartistHans Erni.Finally, technology-related paintings,drawingsand geographical puzzle. There’s acollectionof floor mapof Switzerlandandaccompanying eye outfor temporary exhibitions. collection ispretty uninspiring,but keep an 9pm) Pass;covered bytheMuseum kkl-luzern.ch) architect Jean Nouvel’s largelyin anotherwise historiccity,Parisian A strikingworkof post-modernarchitecture KUNSTMUSEUM KULTUR UNDKONGRESSZENTRUM& cinema agiant-screenalso hasaplanetarium, adults). Switzerland’smostpopularmuseum No 6,8or24toget here. 20 after Take noondailyfordetails). bus calendar. ontheglobalmusic it’s oneof thehighlights Music Festival (see opposite ). So increasingly theprofileraised of thetripartite Lucerne it canbeadjusted toanytypeof music–have aboutunwrapping sweets. self-conscious point where audiencemembers are quite even resulted, –tothe youcanheareverything dampening. Inthebubbleof silencethathas suspended ceiling,allcreating extrasound reverberation chamber andhasanadjustable lake’s surface,isentirely surroundedbya ofhall ispartlybuiltbelowthelevel the narrowconcert The trickisthatthetall, and conductors whohave performedhere. at leastthat’stheverdict of manymusicians to perfect known–or ashumankindhasever acoustics of themainconcerthallare asclose looks good,waituntilyouhearit.The Butifyouthinkit the maintrainstation. its primewaterfront location,neighbouring www.kkl-luzern.ch; Europaplatz) see thecity’s see arranged inEnglishforgroups. Individualtours be German. can, however, and Sundaysat11am,buttheyare onlyin h forspecialexhibits; paplatz; adult/childSfr10/8, Sfr4extra Level K,KKL,Euro- 226 7800;www.kunstmuseumluzern.ch; There are public All theaccoladesshowered uponthehall– Otherwise, youcanenter thebuildingto Otherwise, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pmWed) andthe

(www.imax.ch; adult/child Sfr16/12 extra, not (www.imax.ch; adult/childSfr16/12extra, of thebuildingmostSaturdays Kunstmuseum Swiss Arena tours h really stands out with really outwith stands KKL www.lonelyplanet.com

–aneye-catching ( %

screenings hourly11am- (Museum ofArt; (Museum

(Arts &Congress Centre; (Arts . Thepermanent 041 2267777;info@ % 041 370 041 370 % IMAX IMAX 041 Sun) 10am-5pm rest ofyear) hands-on displays. world, especially for children, with lotsof Denkmalstrasse) Sfr6/2.50/5; 24; www.hmluzern.ch;Pfistergasseadult/child/student mirror maze. The isitskitschythe garden,though, 1001-nights 20 millionyears ago. Thebestthingabout on itbytheglacierthatslidover itsome the scars (includinghuge potholes)inflicted without a specific military interest.without aspecificmilitary thepanoramaappealingtothose hard tosee it’s looking troopsandcivilians.Allthesame, 1100-sq-metre circularpaintingof miserable- rative (alsoinEnglish) thatbringstolife the Prussian warof 1870–71,with amoving nar- very professional depictionof theFranco- The renowned appealislargelyfamous butwhose nostalgic. 19th-century attractionsforwhich Lucerneis North of theoldtown,there’s acluster of ATTRACTIONSVICTORIAN-ERA www.lonelyplanet.com adult/student Sfr6/4; 27; Richard-Wagner-Weg www.richard-wagner-museum.ch; Museum Historisches OTHER MUSEUMS 11; adult/student&seniorSfr8/7; Löwenplatz 412 3030;www.bourbakipanorama.ch; can beeasilymissed. musty collectionof Alpinerelief mapsand platz 6;adult/child/studentSfr6/1.50/5; History; your chosen story in German orEnglish. storyinGerman your chosen topic andletyourself beguided through a barcode-reading audio-guide, pickyour ness togovernment andtourism.Pickup grabbing themes,fromlustandlascivious- carefully of organised intoaseries attention- 4; adult/student/childSfr10/8/5; % on modern audiences. on modernaudiences. belost might the world’,butsentiment andmostmoving‘saddest pieceof rockin lion the Mark Twainoncecalledthiscarved and familyduringtheFrench Revolution. who diedin1792defending KingLouisXVI h www.alpineum.ch; Denkmalstrasse11;adult/studentSfr5/4; The The renovated The Next dooristhe 041 410 43 40; www.glaciergarden.org; Denkmalstrasse 041 4104340;www.glaciergarden.org;Denkmalstrasse 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct) 9am-12.30pm &1.30-6pmApr-Oct) offers anenticingentree intothenatural % Naturhistorisches Museum Naturhistorisches Richard WagnerMuseum Richard 041 2285411;www.naturmuseum.chKasernen- h isdedicated totheSwisssoldiers 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) h Löwendenkmal . Thisstripof rockbears

Gletschergarten 10am-noon & 2-5pmTue-Sun mid- Bourbaki Panorama Bourbaki (History Museum; (History Alpineum h h is cleverly and iscleverly (

h % (

9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Apr-Oct,

(Museum of Natural ofNatural (Museum % opposite isa 9am-6pm) (Lion Monument; (Lion Monument;

10am-5pm Tue-

041 410 40 64; 041 4104064; % (Glacier Garden; (Glacier Garden; 041 3602370; 041 22854

( % isa 041 041

yoning (fromSfr155), contact Sfr150), bungee jumping(Sfr160) andcan- venture sportslike paragliding (for tandem from Lucerne/Buochs airfieldnearStans. 226 4480,info04100;www.lucernefestival.ch) h 58 74,05235488;www.skycruise.ch;flightsfromSfr380; Lucerne,ona Lake you cancover themallquickly,aswell Mts Rigi,Pilatus,Titlis ortheStanserhorn, and offers cheap lake (Sfr15). cruises (from Sfr25/25/50 perhour,plusdeposit) ing boats,pedalosandsmallmotorboats rentsnorthern sideof Seebrücke, outrow- certs take placeintheKKL summer and‘Piano’(inNovember). Con- Easter, divided intothree seasons, separate New Year’s Eve and2January. ber), Immaculate Conception(8December), Day (2October),AllSaints’(1 Novem- May), Assumption (15August),StLeodegar’s dition tonationalones:CorpusChristi (30 instruments. ern shore, hasacollectionof historicmusical residence inTribschen, onthelake’s south- from the southtothenorth bank,admiring bycrossing the Start Tour Walking six-day Lucerne’s Festivals &Events ( bad Lido swimmingatthe There’s supervised Activities Mar–Nov) Seepark, off Alpenquai. off Seepark, for free ontheotherbankof thelake by Lido(see Camping p219 ) oryoucanswim Ash Wednesday. on Mardi Gras(Fat Tuesday),andisover on increasingly raucouscelebrationsclimaxing to thestreets. Thecarnivalmoves through when bandsof musiciansandrevellers take ‘Fritschi’ fromawindowinthetownhall, day’ withtheemergence of thecharacter carnival. Thepartykicksoffon‘DirtyThurs- more famous boisterous andfunthanBasel’s % For snowshoe toursFor snowshoe (fromSfr85) orad- If you can’t choose between anascentup between If youcan’tchoose Lucerne has several publicholidaysinad- Lucerne hasseveral SNG The musical Wed-Sun May-Oct, subject tochange). subject Wed-Sun May-Oct, 041 611 14 41; www.outventure.ch; Stansstad) 041 6111441;www.outventure.ch;

( , housed in the composer’s former inthecomposer’s , housed

% ( % 041 3680808;www.sng.ch) 041 3703806;adult/childSfr6/3) Lucerne Festival LUCERNE ••Activities Fasnacht Zeppelin flight Zeppelin Kapellbrücke celebrationsare

( opposite ).

Blimps leave (tickets (tickets Outventure ( ( , onthe % 1 p214) ; Strand- 052 354 % near . 217 041 is

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND

the parkto andturnleftupthehill. hilfgasse totheintersection withMaria-Weggisgasse the writer oncelodged here in1779.Follow with adrawingof boastingthat Goethe, Hirschenplatz, abuilding where you’ll see eral of thehistoricbuildings.Then exitinto as youadmire thepainted façadesonsev- of theoldcity.Veer intoWeinmarkt, right around the to regulate theriver’s water Skirtleft levels. the thecantonalgovernment.houses built in1577forthecity’smayor,butnow and crossthe arriving infrontof the the modern,concrete bridge, Rathaussteg go. Doublebacktothesouthbankalong the illustrated roof panelsinorderasyou 218 kirche thisliesthemedieval Behind the oldestbaroquechurch inSwitzerland. century. Thenearby since itsoriginalconstructioninthe13th Baselstr

Hirschengraben Kasernen- At the top, follow the stairs up through At thetop,followstairs upthrough You’re nowinMühleplatzontheedge Continue westalongthesouthbank,past Bur Duration Distance Finish Start WALK FACTS LUCERNE ••Sleeping Nadelwehr (5) gerstr platz

(3) 4 3 Kapellbrücke Rathausquai , which has been frequently, which hasbeen altered 6

1½hours

Naturhistorisches Museum Museum Naturhistorisches 3.5km

7 Quai Karli St Reuss

Reussbrücke Spreuerbrücke Musseggmauer (8) Musseggmauer 5 ,

or water spikes, onceused Mühlenplatz 2 Town Old Weinmarkt Rittersche palace Rittersche

Theat Rössligasse erstr

Rathaussteg Löwengraben ὈὈὈ Ὀ

Jesuitenkirche (2) Jesuitenkirche (Museggmauer) (

Mariahilfgasse Old Town Wall Town Old

7 Bahnhofstr ; p214 ). Franziskaner- Hirschenplatz

. Kapellgasse Weggisgasse

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Climb the Rathausquai ( 6

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waterfront toenjoyadrink. one of therestaurants orcafésfacingthe andchoose weizerhofquai toRathausquai spot togatheryourbreath. view fromitsbroadstairs –andit’sanideal church,part Rennaissance there’s anice larly interested inthepartRomanesque, first monastery. Even ifyou’re notparticu- to the train station. dry. It’sa15-minute walksoutheastof the hostel. Facilities include kitchen andlaun- residence makes asuperlative backpackers’ leafy spot,thisfriendlyformerstudents’ with balconiesoverlooking thelake ina Bcpces Lucerne Backpackers Hostels BUDGET Sleeping Löwendenkmal to have aquicklookatLucerne’sfamous and Löwenplatz.Crossthesquare diagonally you cometothe Turnleftuntil tinuing ontoMuseumsplatz. derneath anarch inthecitywallandcon- passingun- continue downMusseggstrasse, place.ing inthesame fro alongthecityramparts,before emerg- Schirmerturm here andenjoyawalkto ception 7-10am&4-11pm) Alpenquai42;dmSfr28,dSfr66; packerslucerne.ch; Lake Lucerne Musseggstr Finally, make yourwaybackalongSch- On thereturn leg,make adetoursouth Head left(northeast)outof theparkand

200m 0.1miles 0 0 Hertenste

Hofkirche (11) Hofkirche

Schweizerhofquai instr ( 10 ; p217 ) Bourbaki Panorama Bourbaki

, Museumsplatz

( on thesite of Lucerne’s % Cheerfully decorated, Cheerfully

Alpenstr St Leodegarstr St

041 3600420;www.back www.lonelyplanet.com .

Haldenstr Nationalquai Löwenstr Ὀ Ὀ Zürichstr 9 ( 9

Denkmalstr p217) ; 11 h 10 re-

np .ch; Taubenhausstrasse 34;s/dwithshared bathroomSfr80/120; 2pm-midnight insummer,from4pmwinter; 12;dm/dSfr32.50/82; /luzern; Sedelstrasse Sfr90/120; 12;dmSfr35-40,s/dSfr70/100,withbathroom St-Karli-Quai www.lonelyplanet.com plus Sfr5 for electricity, cabinbeds Sfr20; plus Sfr5forelectricity, national.ch; Lidostrasse 8; campsitesperadult/tentSfr10/10, Lido Camping Maria Pension Villa Hotel Tourist Pensions &Hotels Camping rooms share facilities. Most Museum. granny-chic pensionneartheTransport bathroom Sfr130/160; bluewin.ch; Haldenstrasse36;dwithshared/private northern shore, eastof town.Italso hassix- The well-equipped ground isonthelake’s or busNo1toSchlossberg. Jugendherberge, busNo19toRosenberg to busNo18fromthetrainstation Get whenit’sbesttobook. summer, though, particularly convenient. Itstillgets busyin hostel’s locationnorthof thecentre isnot modern,well-runandclean,this Although Hotel Alpha Hotel while thesuites are more congenial. however, room. Theydoforashort stay, bare floorboards andaprefabricated bath- dows, theyconsistof littlemore thanabed, experience. Withcelldoors andbarred win- rooms alltooaccurately re-create thejail findthatthecheaperfussier guestsmight our schemes. Somehave balconies. with spotlessroomsinvaryingcheerful col- budget hotel feels like anupmarket hostel, from thebustlingtouristzone,thisfriendly ings, abouta10-minutewalkfromthecentre. 24;s/dSfr75/110)Simplebutcleanlodg- Zähringerstrasse n graben.ch; Löwengraben18;dm/s/d/steSfr30/120/165/165; Eichof. garden.Taketub andpleasant busNo1to there’s alovely old-fashioned bathroomwith have white wallsandparquetflooring,while gether foracalm,relaxing weekend. Rooms of friends–of varyingages –have gotto- this cosy,stylish residence feels like abunch SYHA hostel Also recommended: Bed andBreakfast Hotel Löwengraben Hotel ) Thisrevamped prisonisanovelty, but ) Onagoodday,theatmosphere at in ( %

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% ( ( % % ) 041 2404280;www.hotelalpha.ch; Onthewaterfront butaway 041 410 24 74; www.touristhotel.ch; 041 4102474;www.touristhotel.ch; h 041 3702146;www.camping-inter ( 041 4208800;www.youthhostel.ch

% ( %

( closed Nov-Feb; % 041 3702119;villamaria@ 041 3101514;www.theBandB 041 4171212;www.loewen h p 15 Mar–31 Oct) 15 Mar–31 h ) Friendly ) Friendly ip check-in )

.ch; Weinmarkt12;s/dSfr185/290) behind itsfauxGothic,red-brick exterior. hotel hasjauntilycoloured modernrooms opposite thistemperance thetrainstation, weare.ch; St-Leodegar-Strasse 3;s/d&trSfr160/260; boat totheVerkehrshaus. .ch; Weinmarkt6;sSfr200-350,dSfr300-420; inp ten.ch; Stadthofstrasse 14;s/d/trfromSfr195/295/335; in tana.ch; Adligenswilerstrasse22;sSfr195-295, dSfr320-440; out. Those facingthesquareout. Those are noisier. modern, pastel-coloured roomsthrough- combines anornate historicfaçadewith -luzern.ch; Rathausquai 5;s/dfromSfr125/195) -luzern.ch; Rathausquai 270; -waldstaetterhof.ch; Zentralstrasse 4;sSfr150-170,dSfr190- to turnthebathroomsintoworksof art. them, funkytiledecorationshave used been rustic andcolonialtoromantic.Inthree of decorated inarange of stylesfromurbanto Rebstock’s excellentroomsare tastefully woodenbeamsandlowceilings– dieval Spread over –onestillwithme- twohouses third off. rates duringwinter –sometimesuptoone- Most of thefollowinghotels offer discounted MIDRANGE &TOPEND bag required). bed woodencabins(nobreakfast, sleeping the tone. Mies vanderRohe furniture inNo226sets morein aslightly streamlined fashion.The striking, individuallydecorated rooms,but looks theriver neartheKapellbrücke. andover-but theplaceiswell-maintained Hotel desAlpes’roomsare olderinstyle, of hotels alongthisnoisystrip, theseveral sized bedrooms enjoy fantastic views, asdo sized bedrooms enjoyfantastic by itsown funicular. Many of thegenerously on ahilloverlooking thelake andis reached book roomsfacingtheriver ifpossible. Weinmarkt square so canbenoisyatnight, elegant, too. thatthe warned,however, Be most beautiful,andtheroomsinsideare hotel’s historicfrescoed façadeasthecity’s tour guidesfrequently describethisfour-star Hotel desBalances Hotel Hotel Montana Hotel Hotel Hofgarten Hotel zumRebstock Hotel Hotel desAlpes Hotel Hotel Waldstätterhof Hotel Hotel Krone Hotel np ) ThisopulentArt Decohotel perches ) ) Rebstock’ssister hotel also has Surprisingly good for a hotel right Surprisinglygoodforahotel right

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% Get (

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LUCERNE ••Sleeping % 041 4194400;www.krone-luzern (

( % bus No6,8or24a % 041 4190000;www.hotel-mon

(

041 4105825;www.desalpes ( % % 041 4108888;www.hofgar 041 4182828;www.balances 041 4103581;www.here 041 2271271;www.hotel ThecentralKrone ip Thebest ) City City 219 p

)

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND erstrasse 14;stefromSfr350-540; 12.30am Sun) from Sfr6.50,mainsSfr19-25; Sfr8.50, mainsSfr16-19; always onfresh ingredients. vol-au-vents),(stuffed buttheemphasisis to vegetarian auberginerange frombraised toThaicurry restaurant’s leafygarden.Thespecialities the bestvegetarian foodintownthis and dinner. fers arange of worlddishes inwoksatlunch initsglasscounters,sandwiches butalsoof- looking, casualbistrostocksmuesli and .ch; Haldenstrasse10;sSfr390-560,dSfr490-660) slightly overpriced.slightly touch lessthanperfect. Someguestsfindit somefinishes lookaeminence, though, belle époque favourite withthe huge luxuryhotel onthewaterfront isa der Egg8;mainsSfr20-45) Bodu Eating hall entrance. the breakfast room,terrace andthebarrel- 220 gigs onSaturdaynight. jazzworkshops areWeeknight followedby member’sattention. trouble catching astaff rather smokyhaunt,where have youmight ofselection whiskies,this is afunkyand chalkboardwooden tables, menusandwide & saladsSfr10,mainsSfr24-30,dailymenusSfr20) and even theAntilles. and even branches outintodishes fromPiedmont inProvençalespecialises cuisine,butalso deaux winesandexcellentriver views.It celebrated foritsParisian-café interior, Bor- This French isalocalinstitution, brasserie served atthisold-fashioned but esteemed served called vents withmeatandmushrooms – stuffed most celebrated home-made Wurst andsomeof thecity’s ing of each matt-black sleek suite. from adifferent movie arthouse ontheceil- low-lit designhotel, which features ascene your ownbedtimeinarchitect Jean Nouvel’s Jazzkantine Hotel Restaurant Schiff Restaurant Hotel Hotel KKL World Café KKL WorldCafé Hofgarten Palace Luzern LUCERNE ••Eating

( % Kügelipastetli

( % 041 4100177;Kornmarkt5;mainsSfr18-45) With its stainless steel bar,sturdy steel Withitsstainless 041 226 86 86; www.the-hotel.ch; Sempach- 041 2268686;www.the-hotel.ch;

style. Given pre- itssupposed (

( % %

( % Lozärner Chögalipaschtetli 041 4100177;Kornmarkt5;soups 041 4107373;Grabenstrasse8;snacks Chögalipaschtetli h (Europaplatz 1;sandwichesfrom 041 4161616;www.palace-luzern Fish from Lake Lucerne, FishfromLake Condé Nast in High German) are German) inHigh 9am-midnight) h

a ( 7-12.30am Mon-Sat,4pm- % ) Be a film star in afilmstar Be 041 4185252;Unter Thissleek- set forits set (vol-au- Enjoy This

Aug) 1; mainsSfr20-50; shop. mospheric ‘grandcafé’aswellatakeaway one of theoriginaloutletsandhas anat- bakery/confectionery chain, butthiswas has sincemushroomedintoasuccessful ful localchain andhasotheroutlets. Swiss andLucernespecialities.It’sasuccess- licious cakes andconfectionery, pluscheap excellentbreakfasts, de- the waterfront serves 2; 25; cades facingthewaterfront. restaurant. Insummer,situnderthear- ment table andwatchment table theriver flow. of thisatmospherictavern, ornabapave- home-brewed under thevaulted arches beer Bräuerei Rathaus &Entertainment Drinking terrace. chain isnoteworthy foritspanoramicroof of thenationalsupermarket restaurant traditional Lucernecuisine. toberegulars,seem which bodeswellforthe it since1856andmanygroupsof customers without charm. familyhasowned Thesame popular Pravda (open Wednes- nightclub find the door totheequally posh,butvery hotel, you’ll the groundfloor inthesame ier discreetly checking each other out.On despite thegreat view,theclientele are bus- a ritzyrooftop barwithplumpsofas where, h Manor Heini Wirtshaus Galliker Wirtshaus Penthouse Hug h Mon-Sat) cosy, formertavern. inthisupdated butstillother dishesserved and Alpinemacaroniare justafew ofthe or porksausageswithonionsauce,venison milk soup,rösti,calf’sliver, homemadeveal Chögalipaschtetli goes wellbeyondLucerne’s trademark best-selling cookbookandamenuthat local Wirtshaus TaubeWirtshaus AUTHOR’S CHOICE erstrasse 3;mainsSfr18-40; Thisvery oldfashionedrestaurant isnot 9am-midnight Wed-Sun,from8amTue &Sat) 7am-5pm Mon-Sat)

( %

Rüüdigi

( (cnr Theilingasse&Weggisgasse) % Anexcellentplacetosamplethe 041 4101092;Mühleplatz6;lunchmenusSfr17-

041 4122020;AmFalkenplatz) (Astoria Hotel,Pilatusstrasse(Astoria 29) h cuisine, Taube hasitsown

lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, closedJul–mid- ( %

vol-au-vents. fish, Lake (

% This traditional café on Thistraditionalcaféon ( 041 4105257;UnterdenEgg % 041 240 10 01; Schützenstrasse 041 2401001;Schützenstrasse www.lonelyplanet.com 041 2100747;Burg- h 11am-midnight Thisb Thisis Heini ranch Sip the entrance. and retains someof theflockwallpaperin is unusuallybuiltinsideaformercinema Pilatusplatz; It’s neartheSYHA hostel, behindRotsee. live andpunkmusic. industrial,experimental afairlyundergroundstill maintain airwith renovation atthetimeof writing,butshould squat-like formerprisonwasundergoing strasse 1; hip-hopandurbansounds. Latin, young crowdandplaysdanceablehouse, a trendy, well-dressed, butunpretentious, and-concrete minimalist design,thisattracts Sound DJshave regular residencies. day toSaturday)–aplacewhere Ministryof www.lonelyplanet.com from outside theHauptbahnhof atBahn- leave OldTown, citybuses pedestrianised Should youbegoing furtherthanthelargely Around Getting around Bahnhofplatz/Europaplatz. p222 . Thedeparture pointsare thequays For informationonboattransport, see BOAT provides theroadlinkto Zürich. byLucerne,andtheN14 and Luganopasses hourly (Sfr22, onehour). Zürich-boundOlten orLangnau). trainsare (Sfr70, 3¼ hours,hours) via andGeneva (Sfr34, 1¼hours), Lugano(Sfr56, Bern 2¾ (Sfr29, twohours, viathescenicBrünigPass), Hourly trainsconnectLucernetoInterlaken &Away There Getting ket Saturday morning.There’s alsoa along theriver Tuesdayand quaysevery Fruit andvegetable springforth stalls Shopping May toOctober. after therailway bridge, thenright. the programmeof music.Turnleftjust themooddependson early 30s),although and clubattractingamixed crowd(late 20s, platz 3) times alsoMon&Thu) Loft Restaurant Stadtkeller Restaurant Schüür ABC ClubMixx The N2 (E9) motorway connecting Basel The N2(E9)motorwayconnectingBasel Sedel

(Burgerstrasse/Reusssteg) Folklorictouristtrap.

(Haldenstrasse 21;

h (Emmenbrücke; (Emmenbrücke;

h ( % generally Wed-Sun) daily) 041 3681030;www.schuur.ch; Tribschen-

( Thisplush mainstream club % Thisformerlyrundown, 041 240 88 77; www.abcmixx.ch; 041 2408877;www.abcmixx.ch; h h

( always Fri &Sat,butsome- always Fri each Saturdayfrom Wed-Sun) % Laid-back DJbar Laid-back 041 4104733;Sternen- Withasteel- flea mar- www.glasi.ch; Seestrasse 12;admissionfree; www.glasi.ch; Seestrasse free; admission Schweighof,CH6010Kriens-Luzern; 86; Industrie buy, butalsotoblow,yourownhorn. are madeandhave thechance notonlyto huge, unwieldyAlpineinstrumentsthese matt). Here youcanlearn all about how 1 toKriens,thenbusNo16Oberkuoni- south of LucerneinSchweighof (take busNo tucked-away resorts, which can bereached out points, thelake alsooffers little pleasant appointing. dis- meadows andvalleys beyondisnever ofexpanse water tothegreen hillsides, assured, anyviewacrosstheshimmering you’re really spoiltforchoice. But,rest horn allhaving lookoutsontheirsummits, Lucerne.) theshorthandLake use that.(Littlewonder English speakerssaying while and turnsasmuch asthetonguedoes –whichtons, orVierwaldstättersee twists the adjacent ofLake theFourForest Can- Majestic peakshunch over thecoastlineof indowntownLucerne. whilestanding even It’s possibletofeel thecallof themountains LAKE LUCERNE stops atHergiswil, asnotalldo. however, up toMtPilatus( p222 ). Make sure yourtrain andisaneasystopoverstad, onaround-trip LucerneandAlpnach-The factoryisbetween nirs, after listening toanaudiovisual history. glass-blowing inactionandbuysouve-to see is instructive andinteresting, withthechance A visitto Glasi Hergiswil The Alphorn workshop Alphornbau Stocker AROUND LUCERNE park atthetrainstation. ers travel free. There’s anunderground car day busticket forSfr14 andSwiss Pass hold- stamped (Sfr9.50) covers witha allzones,though fare foreach destination.The24-hourpass two. Ticket dispensers indicate thecorrect ney, Sfr2.60 foronezoneandSfr3.80 for hofplatz. Tickets costSfr2 forashortjour- Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat;glass-blowingonlyuntilnoononSat) Mon-Fri, And apart from its many mountain look- And apartfromits manymountain With MtPilatus,RigiandtheStanser- h 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 8am-noon &2-6pmMon-Fri, Luzern Hergiswil Glassworks Hergiswil guideyoucanget athree- Stocker LAKE LUCERNE

( %

( % 041 630 12 23; 041 6301223; h 041 34088 9am-6pm 9am-6pm 221 is

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND 367 67 67; www.lakelucerne.ch inGerman) 367 6767;www.lakelucerne.ch The Around Getting born. supposedly the Rütlimeadowwhere thecountrywas significance fortheSwiss,asit’shometo –hasspecial UriorUrnersee cerne –Lake by boat.Thefareastern reach of Lu- Lake 222 stad. Here,stad. theN2motorway ploughs a excluding thestretch fromFlüelentoStans- to theshoreline mostof thewayaround– offer. are on alsospecial dinner/dancingcruises roundtripsduringsummer.evening There Ask aboutdiscountsforlate afternoon or lected railwaysandcablecars. mountain price. Passes willget youdiscountsonse- entitlesyoutohalf- trips, whileInter Rail travel only)are validonscheduled boat Swiss Pass for andEurail(ondaysselected asoftenand youcanalight asyouwant. are relatively much cheaper thanshortones, Flüelen (Sfr32/48, twohours). Longer trips utes), Brunnen (Sfr28/42, 1¾hours) and 45 minutes), Vitznau(Sfr19.20/29, 55min- minutes each (Sfr13.80/21, way),Weggis nachstad (oneway/return Sfr19.20/20, 40 national holidays. only gopastRütliinwinter onSundaysand lake, itsmosteasterly finger, where services of Urisection the This excludestheLake boats (sometimespaddle-steamers) daily. LAKE LUCERNE If driving, you’ll find that roads run close If driving,you’llfindthatroadsrunclose From Lucerne,destinationsincludeAlp- LAKELUCERNE ••MtPilatus Lake LucerneNavigationCompanySGV Lake Sarner Mt Pilatus Alpnach Dorf Sarnen (2120m) See Alpnachstad N2 Lucerne E35 Kriens Hergiswil N8 Reu ss See Alpnacher Stanserhorn (1898m) Ebikon Bürgenstock N14 (Vierwaldstättersee) operates Stansstad (1128m) Lake Lucerne Stans Kälti

( % Küssnacht Mt To Engelberg(14km) 041 041 Weggis Lucerne/Buochs N2 Airfield Kaltbad Buochs Klewenalp west, Looming over Lucernefromthesouth- PILATUSMT and usuallyawayfromthewater. line,sometimesundergroundfairly straight to derive from the Latin word to derive fromtheLatin reality, themoniker however, ismore likely since. ever who hashaunted In itsheights thrown intoasmalllake onitssummitand was named after corpse PontiusPilate, whose ing tolegend, thisrugged 2120mpeakwas region’s mostpopulardestinations.Accord- of theway,itisthree hours downfromthe Ifyouwishtowalkpart passes). Inter Rail (Sfr40.80/43.20/52.30 withvalidSwiss/Eurail/ October, whilethecablecars are serviced. of forthelasttwoweeks route isclosed back duringthattimeof year. Even this to retrace and yoursteps upthemountain the Kriensroute isopen,meaningyouhave andfromNovemberhowever, toMay only Kriens–Lucerne) ismuch lesscrowded, day. Lucerne thesame from where alake steamer headsbackto of 48%)bringsyoudowntoAlpnachstad, est cograilway(atamaximumgradient latus. Fromthesummit,world’ssteep- Krienseregg andFräkmüntegg, upto Mt Pi- bus No1to Kriens andthecablecar,via quently is. ing covered fre- inclouds–asthemountain Rigi (1593m) (Zugersee) Lake Zug Total costofTotal thereturn tripisSfr79.80 The reverse route ( Alpnachstad–Pilatus– The classic‘goldenround-trip’takes Beckenried (1797m) Mt Rigi Rotschuo Vitznau Mt Pilatus N4 Arth Scheidegg (1662m) Gersau Oberarth Bauen Meadow Lauerz Isleten Goldau (Urnersee) Rütli Lake Uri

Brunnen (www.pilatus.com) Lauerzer See Chapel) (William Tell Tellskapell Sisikon www.lonelyplanet.com 4miles 6km 0 0 Flüelen Altdorf N2 E35 Schwyz pileatus N4 E41 is oneof the , mean- Pilatus. The19th-century ( right ), butthere are twohotels foundon overnightworthwhile, tostay atMtRigi tion. ThewalkfromFräkmüntegg iseasier. and three hours downtoHergiswil boatsta- summit toAlpnachstad, 3½hours toKriens www.lonelyplanet.com (www.klewenalp.ch; one way/return Sfr19/30) makes the10-minute ascentto isacablecarthatfrom theboatstation Justafewride fromStans. minutes’ walk onthesouthernshore,Beckenried, isabus BECKENRIED toric exterior andnewdesignerrooms. 4; At 1898m,the STANSERHORN Sfr110/195) s/d/tr/f Sfr80/140/165/190) office (one wayfromLucerneSfr6.80). The and parkingthere. save almostanhourbydrivinguptoKälti from thevillage. Ifyouhave acaryoucan hiking up(4½hours) ordown(3½hours) Alternatively, youcansave more moneyby cerne, orSfr52 ifyou’re inStans. staying trainstation. Stans is afive-minute walk(signposted) fromthe mid-November. station Thefunicular’sbase cable car. Bothoperate frommid-April to from thevillage of toKälti,thena Stans looking backtoTitlis. in theregion, andoffers 360-degree views It alsoboaststheonlyrevolving restaurant onthelake. mountain is thesecond-tallest Engel to stroll.Here, too,isthewell-regarded church streets andsurroundedbypleasant overlookedthe station, byanearlybaroque the charming towncentre, islocated behind dation. Theexpansive Dorfplatz,thehubof in thevillage andhelpsoutwithaccommo- restaurant onthispeak. circular building.There’s alsoaself-service ing and biking trailsheadinginto mountain cially for beginners, plus it offers manyhik- a much-underrated skiingdestination, espe- Sfr80/125) 670 1255;[email protected]; s/dwithshared bathroom h It’s more traditional, andarguably more Stans isontheLucerne–Engelberg Stans railway The return journey costsSfr59 fromLu- The journeyupisby‘old-timer’funicular

9am-noon &2-5pm) ( ( % % andthemodern share reception thesame inthe 041 610 88 33; www.lakeluzern.ch; Bahnhofplatz Bahnhofplatz 041 6108833;www.lakeluzern.ch; 041 619 10 10; www.engelstans.ch; Dorfplatz 1; 1; 041 6191010;www.engelstans.ch; Dorfplatz Stanserhorn , astrikingmixof his- offers sightseeing trips trips offers sightseeing Pilatus Kulm

Hotel Bellevue Hotel (www.stanserhorn.ch) Klewenalp . Thisis

( % tourist tourist Hotel Hotel

(s/d 041

out forthe however.steep, (WhilehikingonRigi,watch tle over isquite twohours. Thelastsection from there, theshortest of which takes alit- to shorten thejourney.There are twopaths (oneway/return Sfr12/18) to Seeboldenalp you couldtake thecable carfromKüssnacht It’s atleasta4½-hourtrek but fromWeggis, Lehnenweg route around the mountain. routeLehnenweg aroundthemountain. 390 1155) at views. Or,askatthetouristoffices Kaltbad (part-waydown),withwonderful two hours) downfromRigiKulmto .rigi.ch. There are easywalks(1½to several Forrecommendedtain. routes, check www walk downthishikers’ of paradise amoun- ants andasmallsnackkiosk). ment atthesummit,andhastworestaur- of theoriginal,isonlymajor establish- (Today’s hotel, a20th-centuryre-creation upthesky. theblazingsunlight dawn tosee ists have atthe staying been around here. Sincethe19thcentury,tour- nacht andanarmof Lucerne. Lake arounduntilitalmostjoinsKüss- curving overlook Arth-GoldauandtheZugersee, Jungfrau region. Tothenorthandwest,you ( mid-Dec) Sfr67/110, withbathroomSfr105/186; ( south andeastfrom1797m-tall impressive wallof peakstothe mountain Onaclearday,there’sthe Mountains’? an ofthe astoundingviewsfromthis‘Queen whenyouhave TV need Who wouldever RIGI MT top outlinestheoptions. the hillsandvalleysbeyond.Amapat .ch) tion of diverting atRigiKaltbad andtaking erates year-round. inlatefor twoweeks May, but Vitznauop- closes way/return. TheArth-Goldau service from Vitznau. EithercostsSfr35/58 one top. Onerunsfrom Arth-Goldau, theother rival rackrailwayscarrypassengers tothe inhabited Rigi!) supernatural powers whoinmythology once % % Hiking up the mountain is another story. isanotherstory. Hiking upthemountain After this,there’s littlelefttodobut Most of isprimetimeviewing all,sunrise The Vitznau trackgives thefurther op- ofFor those alessenergetic bent,two includingMtTitlis andthegiantsof the 041 2271717;Zentralstrasse 5) 041 855 03 03; [email protected]; dmSfr32,s/d 041 8550303;[email protected]; andgetting upbefore thecrackof for information on the lengthy Rigi for informationonthelengthyRigi LAKE LUCERNE ••Stanserhorn Chlyni Lüüt , tiny ‘wild folk’ with , tiny‘wildfolk’with or h Rigi Kulm Hotel KulmHotel Rigi Weggis closed mid-Nov- Rigi (www.rigi

Lucerne ( % 223 041 041

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Jun) dishes Sfr13-25; Dec) from Sfr14.50,mains Sfr25; inwinter) mer, 8am-5pmMon-Fri .ch; Park Hotel complex – serving winesfrom Park Hotel complex –serving trendy restaurant –partof Californian the boat station. lent cheap choice liesupthehillfrom of standards cleanliness.Thisexcel- and high simple, ifnotespeciallyatmospheric,rooms pernicketyeven customers happy,withits down-to-earth meals, coffee andcake. a private beach. restaurants, awell-equipped spaandeven and service designer rooms,outstanding football team). Itboasts elegant, understated fortheBraziliannational was goodenough of Switzerland’stopfive holidayhotels (it has twoturreted one buildings thathouse 34;s/dfromSfr340/515; Herteinsteinstrasse -weggis.ch; s/dfromSfr135/210; to RigiKaltbad (one way/return Sfr25/42). Acablecarrunsfromhereerally suffices. up andafewin theevening days’stopover gen- but boatsinandoutof theresort are sparse town friendlinessisextremely welcoming, ment, the forerunner of Dada. Itssmall- of therebellious ‘ModernerBund’artmove- thisgenteelbelieve resort wasthebirthplace on theshores of thelake. Today,it’shardto mate, sproutingafew palmtrees andfigs Rigi, enjoys anunusuallymildcli- Weggis Sheltered fromcoldnortherlywindsbyMt 440m pop 3000/elevation Weggis Pass).Inter Rail Sfr89 (Sfr29/29/44.50 withSwiss/Eurail/ whole tripcanbedonefromLucernefor instead. The the cablecarto/fromWeggis 224 Sfr18). Askstation. aboutbike rentals (perhour boats dock. boats dock. tion onthewaterfront minutes fromwhere bedspreads andahandyloca- andcurtains room Sfr66.50/111.50/116.50; hotel.ch; Parkstrasse 29;s/d/trSfr47/76.50/86.50,withbath- SeeHotel Gotthard SeeHotel Grape See-Café Weggis See-Café The Budget-Hotel Weggis Budget-Hotel Park Hotel Weggis Park Hotel h is a pleasant midrange isapleasant hotel withchecked is a popular local meeting place, serving place,serving isapopularlocalmeeting LAKEURI 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2.30pmSat&Suninsum- 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, tourist office tourist ( % 041 392 07 07; Seestrasse 60;pizza/pasta 041 3920707;Seestrasse h 7am-11pm Jul&Aug,closedThuSep-

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( % h 041 390 17 38; Seestrasse 6; 041 3901738;Seestrasse 041 3902114;www.gotthard 041 3920505;www.phw.ch; 041 3901155;www.weggis 041 3901131;www.budget isnexttotheboat h reception 3-9pm) h closed mid-Oct–mid- 10-12.30am) inp keeps keeps isa ) Uri onfoot. Youdothat viathe (Sfr27) youcanalsocircumnavigate Lake Altdorf’s Tellspielhaus. Schiller’s playissometimesperformedin inthemain square, stands and man himself ofhis apple-shootingstunt.Astatue the William Tell isreputed tohave performed crossing. Nearthetownis postforthemuletrains makingthis staging St GotthardPass, andhistoricallyitwasa on themainroadandrailroute through it’s because Flüelen. Flüelenisimportant canton, Uri,theboatfinallypullsinat carillon thatchimes behindthechapel. William Tell Tale, opposite ). There’s ahuge theboxed boat(see from Gessler’s text The to have occurred onthisspot,hisescape legend, includingtheonethat’ssupposed murals depictingfourepisodesintheTell liam Tell Chapel).Thewallsare covered in doubles asacafé. andasouvenirsmall museum shopwhich always aflagflyingproudly,andthere’s a on 1August.Onanyordinaryday,there’s the focalpointof nationalday celebrations this ishallowedgroundtotheSwissand force againstpotential invaders. As such, Swiss armyduringWWIIinashow of later gathered where Guisan the General Uri, Schwyz andNidwaldenin1291 signedbythethreesupposedly cantonsof where of theOath Eternal Alliancewas increatingso instrumental theTell legend. author of theplay ing isadedicationtoFriedrich Schiller, the of nearly26m.Inscribedonitingoldletter- elisk protrudingfromthewater toaheight len, thefirst youpassisanaturalob- sight take theferry from BrunnentowardsFlüe- is apopularoutingforSwiss patriots.Ifyou of section Lucerne Lake Uri(Urnersee) Lake With itsmanyhistoricallandmarks,the LAKE URI wood-fired pizzasonthemenu. sion dishes, Mexican classic andcurriesjoin cious international cuisine. Asian andfu- the NapaValley alongsidearange of deli- (www.weg-der-schweiz.ch) As wellasmakingtheroundtrip byboat After crossingintoanotherfounding Another portof callisthe Next stopisthe Wilhelm Tell, builtto commemorate Rütli Meadow Rütli Meadow www.lonelyplanet.com Tellskapell Altdorf which was Swiss Path . Thisis , where (Wil-

hours) isn’ttoostrenuous either. is almostflatandFlüelentoSisikon(2½ toFlüelen(around4½hours)But Bauen from SisikontoBrunnen,are thehilliest. and laststretches, and fromRütlitoBauen stopsare boat tween manageable. Thefirst be- whole 35km,butoneortwosections andatleasttwodays,towalkthe stamina, off withastoneplaque. Itwouldtake by thecanton’spopulationandismarked The lengthof isdetermined each section three toJohnny-come-lately Jura(1979). ing adifferent canton,fromthefounding each represent-The pathisin26sections, running allthewayfromRütlitoBrunnen. the 700thanniversary of the1291pactand www.lonelyplanet.com ing andparagliding. the perfect windsurf- conditionsforsailing, itcreatesrushes downfromthemountains, south andwest.As thelocal gles, Brunnen enjoysmesmerisingviews an- atright meet Uri(Urnersee) and Lake Situated onthe shore where Lucerne Lake 443m pop 7000/elevation BRUNNEN though that’s more to do with another do-gooder outlaw, the Lone Ranger of classic TV fame. ofclassicTV outlaw, theLoneRanger though that’s more todowith anotherdo-gooder on theworldstage. Even today,Rossini’s him forlife above inhisfortress Küssnacht. been harmed.Outraged,Gesslerarrested Tell andtookhimonhisboat,intending toimprison that Tell washidingasecond arrow,whichTell admitted wasintended forGessler,hadTell’s son shot anappleoffhisson’shead.ToGessler’sdisappointment,Tell succeeded.Yet Gessler noticed reputation withacrossbowanddecreed hislife hewouldforfeit andthatofhisson,unlesshe However, WilliamTell fromBürglen neglected todosoandwasstopped. GesslerknewofTell’s townsquare.a poleinAltdorf Everyone was required tobowthissymbolofHabsburg rule. 13th century,theymadethestorytheirown. existed. ButwhentheSwissbeganto chafe ofAustrian undertheyoke dominanceduringthe in Norsemythologyaeonsearlier–pretty muchrulingoutthechancethatany real WilliamTell offtheheadsofsmallboyshadbeendoingroundsshooting archersforcedtoknockobjects Tell hero. Forwithout Friedrich Schiller’s1804play Really, theSwisshave aGermanplaywrightandanItalianmusiciantothankfortheirnational THE WILLIAM TELLTALE appearing inthe the bailiffandhisentourageapproached, Tell Gesslerwithasingle arrowthroughtheheart. killed Gessler, Tell lane. racedtoKüssnachtambush thetyrant.HehidbyHohleGasse,asunken As time pushingtheboatbackintostormy waves. Realisinghisfamilywouldnever besafe from close totheshore. Heleaptfromtheboatandontoarock(atsite oftheTellskapell), atthesame was alsoamaster helmsman, wasuntiedtoguidetheboatsafety andtookthechancetosteer As theycrossedthelake, In theiradaptation,theAustrian bailiffofUriandSchwyz,HermannGessler,placedhishaton This version initiallygrew inSwisslegendthrough wordofmouth,itsfirstwritten incarnation , thelegendwouldnothave solodged intheglobalconsciousness. After all,talesofsharp- Weisses Buch Föhn (White Book)ofSarnenaround1470.But SchillerandRossiniputit windswhippedupandthreatened tocapsize theboat.Tell, who Föhn wind William Tell Overture Wilhelm Tell 33 27;campsitesperperson/tent/carSfr6.90/3.50/2.50) person/tent/car Sfr6.90/3.50/2.50) Camping Hopfreben Camping .ch; Parkstrasse 14) open in summer: open insummer: Two campinggroundsinwestBrunnenare Sleeping &Eating tact ifyouwanttogetHowever, con- higher, even from the wonderful viewsof UriandLucerne Lakes impressed bythe Most peoplewillbesuitably Activities office Tourist Information (from Sfr170). the guestcard. rental availabledaily.Don’tforgettoaskabout and bike counters (following thesigns),whichhasmoney-exchange The officeislessthanfiveminutesfromthetrainstation HasinformationandInternetaccess. Oct-May) Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon&1.30-5.30pm 9am-1pm SatJun&Sep; 9am-3pmSat&SunJulAug;8.30am-6pmMon-Fri, Fri, 15; Bahnhofstrasse tourismus.ch; Touch andGo remains instantly recognisable –even andRossini’s1829opera Urmiberg ( % for tandem fortandem paragliding flights

041 8250040;www.brunnen ( %

LAKE URI••Brunnen Camping Urmiberg Camping (cable caroneway/return Sfr11/19) ( % 041 8205431;www.paragliding 041 820 18 73; camp sites per 041 8201873;campsitesper . h 8.30am-6pm Mon- Guillermo

( % 041 820 041 820 and and 225

. CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND fast. Bookwellahead. the groundsandhomemadejamatbreak- public rooms.There’s anAlpinegardenin shaped tree and branches inthestairwell arrangements of stones,plants andodd- byeye-catchingSwiss feel, which isoffset est andmostcreative. Roomshave acosy this family-runhotel isBrunnen’sfriendli- Thu-Sun) 8; mainsSfr12-24; astating fire.astating traditional 19th-centurystyleafter adev- cerne, Zug andFluelen. There are alsoroadconnections fromLu- often achange inArth-Goldauisnecessary. one hour)ischeaper andquicker, although hours). Thetrain (Sfr15.20, 45 minutes to is totake aboatfromLucerne(Sfr28, 1¾ way togetBy farthemostpleasant toBrunnen &Away There Getting hof.ch; Waldstätterquai6;sSfr180-200,dSfr270-320) 226 taurants thataretaurants hardtomiss. Mexican eatery isamongthewaterfront res- Sfr45/80, dSfr100/140) bathroom 8;swithshared/private 22; Bahnhofstrasse Sfr850; 32;sSfr90-120,dSfr140-180,aptperweek Gersauerstrasse is ashealthyittasty. worthy airaboutit,butyouknowthefood vegetarian andfishrestaurant hasaslightly a trendy bar. and doubles asavery coffee house pleasant atmosphere. in neutraltones,lake viewsandaromantic this grandhotel combineselegantrooms one-time English PM WinstonChurchill, Popular withhoneymooners, including views. modern. Budget roomsforego thebest intheAlfaareditional style,those cosily atra- thebedroomsstillevince although the Schmid buildinghave renovated, been inand roomstosuitmosttastes. Those lake, thishotel hasarenowned restaurant Spread acrosstwobuildingsfacingthe alfa.ch; Axenstrasse 5-7;sSfr60-90,dSfr110-170) Sfr6-25; Alpina Hotel Alfa+Schmid Hotel Mezcalito Park Restaurant Dodo Bar&Café Weisses Rössli Waldstätterhof SCHWYZCANTON••Schwyz ip h AttachedtotheAeskulap Klinik,this

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( 041 8250606;www.waldstaetter 041 8201022;fax11 % 041 825 47 26; Gersauerstrasse 041 8254726;Gersauerstrasse 041 8201882;www.schmid Thisplace This This

erature onthearea. Clénin’s Fundamentum other artworks, from Heinrich Danioth’s able fromthefront desk. accuracy of Switzerland’sfounding‘myths’. document, asmanyhistoriansquestion the French abouttheauthenticityof the1291 and some academicdiscussioninGerman or asmore cantonscameaboard.There’s such events, asMorgartenmilitary in1315, after important than theoriginalLatin) panied byrestatements (rather inGerman launched modern Switzerland.It’saccom- Schwyz and Uri,which isregarded ashaving charter of federation signedbyNidwalden, Sat) strasse 4; office tourist atPostplatz.The Schwyz Post, andalight markedtake anybusoutsidethestation 2km fromthecentre. Toreach thecentre, district, Schwyz isintheSeewen trainstation &Information Orientation rope’s largest underground caverns. point fortours totheHölloch Caves, Eu- and alsoprovides theperfect jumping-off birthplace of theoriginal Swiss armyknife documentinSwisshistory,isthe important itishometothemost 1811m). However, peaks of (1898mand theMythenmountains camped infarminglandbeneaththetwin anunassuminglittlevillage Schwyz seems 517m pop 13,934/elevation SCHWYZ is stillproudlydisplayedin Schwyz town. birth certificate of theSwissConfederation ofthe Oath Eternal Allianceof 1291.This communities of UriandNidwaldensigned zerland itsname,andtogether withthe Schwyz’s claimtofameisthatitgave Swit- SCHWYZ CANTON 1.30-5pm Sat&SunNov-Apr) 9.30-11.30am&1.30-5pmMon-Fri, 5pm Sat&SunMay-Oct; dent Sfr4/2.50; % The Sights In any case, thebuilding’s muralsand In anycase, An explanatoryEnglish bookletisavail- is by the bus station, withplentyof isbythebusstation, lit- 041 819 20 64; www.sz.ch; Bahnhofstrasse 20;adult/stu- 041 8192064;www.sz.ch;Bahnhofstrasse Bundesbriefmuseum h Oath onthe Rütli 7.30am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noon 8.30am-noon 7.30am-noon &1-6pmMon-Fri, h

( % 9.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 9.30-11.30am &1.30-5pmMon-Fri, onthe façadetoWalter 041 8101991;www.wbs.ch; Bahnhof- ishometothe1291 www.lonelyplanet.com

(Museum ofFederation;(Museum inthemain hall,

h www.museenschwyz.ch; adult/student&seniorSfr8/6; .ch; Schmiedgasse 57,6438Ibach; www.lonelyplanet.com .irh.ch; Rickenbachstrasse 24;adult/studentSfr4/2.50; Rickenbachstrasse .irh.ch; reliefs, overlook Rickenbacker’s Josef wittymetal are more immediately appealing.Don’t Swiss History; Swiss History; for itsspecialexhibitions. interesting displays,butismostlyof interest plex, is opposite theMythencenter shopping com- back to1287. dating a tinyproportionedancienthouse Bethlehem, Across thecomplexisHouse revisiting itsformermaster’sseum lifestyle. home withtheirbooty.Nowit’s amu- of whomcamefromSchwyz andreturned once thehomeof amercenarysoldier,many 5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon&2-5pmSatSunApr-Nov) 5pm Tue-Fri, portico –whichpaytosee. youneedn’t other sideof thesquare lies Morgarten Onthe andotherhistoricevents. of 19th-century muralsdepictingtheBattle tain and tain inthefoun- placetositwhiletaking pleasant The Off HauptplatzOff anddownSchmiedgasse, The town’s The outselling itsnearest competitorbythree totwo–istheoneofnational flag. array ofutterly astonishingscenerythecountryboasts,best-selling postcardinSwitzerland – and householditems, fromtackytochic. announcedthat, despite Andin2005,areport thevast later, theGeneva-basedInternational RedCrossadopted thereverse image. Finally,proportions. in1889thefederal parliamentvoted forthecurrent incarnation.Five years but inthefirstdecadesofnewSwissConfederation, debate ragedabouttheemblem’s persuade every cantontoacceptthered-and-white militaryflagasafederal emblemin1840, gradually adopted forallSwisssoldiers. with Bernesetroopsduringthe1339BattleofLaupen,andthishighlyrecognisable was marker Two bitsofwhite ofthosefromCentral clothwere Switzerland sewnontotheshirts fighting much more seriouspurpose;itwasameansofidentifyingSwissmercenariesonthebattlefield. design classics,it’sclearandsimple. are all easyontheeye,andlike it simplybecauselookssogoddamngood.Itsproportions mountains andinthemiddleofwaterfalls. cross onared square flutters inthousandsofprivate villagegardens,aswellhalfwayup country you’re visiting. The Swissflytheirnationalflagwithafervent patriotism,andthewhite Once youcrosstheborderintoSwitzerland, you’llnever have asecond’sdoubtaboutwhich A WORTHYCROSSTOBEAR 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Today, theSwissare happytoslathertheirnationallogoover arangeofclothing,accessories militaryleaderintheCivilWar,lobbiedhardtofinallyGeneral HenriDufour,thevictorious lifeHowever, alogoorbrandimage,itstarted ifSwitzerland’s witha flagtodayisvirtually The flag isdistinctive forbeingtheworld’sonlysquare flag,andlocalsmightbeattachedto Ital Reding-Hofstatt The Stations of the Swiss Cross Forum der Schweizer Geschichte Forum derSchweizer Victorinox Rathaus % 041 819 60 11; www.musee-suisse.com, 041 8196011;www.musee-suisse.com, Hauptplatz (town hall), complete with (townhall),complete with

( % iswellcurated andhas 041 8181211; www.victorinox (mainsquare) isa

( % St Martin’s Church St Martin’s h 041 8114505;www 7.30am-noon &

(Forum of (Forum of , inthe h was 2- . venture Point venture you tobivouacinthecaves overnight. overnight toursfromSfr400) toursadultSfr45, toursadult/childSfr20/10,aperitif short or askthetourist office fordetails. pleasure inbuyingatthesource. corkscrews andwatches, where you cantake here, buttheshophasavastarrayof knives, Knife’. Youcan’tvisitthefactory ‘Officer’s and, after ashaky hitpaydirtwithits start, pany wasfoundedin1884byKarl Elsener of theoriginalSwiss armyknife. Thecom- Hinterdorfstrasse 14; dm Sfr26, s/d Sfr48/80, with bathroom 14;dmSfr26, s/dSfr48/80,with bathroom Hinterdorfstrasse Hirschen Sleeping &Eating Team many remain unexplored. Bookat ground streams have mapped,while been outbyunder-170km of tunnelscarved some 35minutes fromSchwyz. More than third biggest intheworld,lieMuotatal, The Activities 8am-3pm 1.15-4pm Mon-Fri, .ch; Hirschen Hotel, Hinterdorfstrasse 14) Hotel,Hinterdorfstrasse .ch; Hirschen peak of range of activities. Plenty of hikes beginfrom the nearby Hölloch caves ( %

Stoos ( 0848 808 007, 041 390 40 40; www.trekking.ch; 0848 808007,0413904040;www.trekking.ch; % SCHWYZ CANTON••Schwyz 041 81112 76;www.hirschen-schwyz.ch; ( (www.stoos.ch). % 079 2477472;www.adventurepoint , Europe’slargest andthe

Sat) , which allows even , themanufacturer Check thewebsite alsooffers a Trekking Trekking

227

Ad- CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Kreuz &Quer Kreuz from Sfr8.50,mainsSfr22.50-38; Café Haug Café the mainsquare, includingtheold-fashioned furnished andatmosphericolderrooms. traditionally retain several style, butitdoes renovatedhas been inageneric modern commodation inthisfour-star establishment Hauptstrasse. Thechurch isattheend of this this square andturn leftintothemain street, of them isDorfplatzsquare; headthrough are together inthecentre of town. Infront andthepostoffice Sihl). Thetrainstation and bythewestern shore (Lake of theSihlsee Einsiedeln issouthof Zürich) Zürichsee (Lake &Information Orientation this asagenuine miracle. building’. Apapalorderlater recognised this hasconsecrated ‘Desist. GodHimself but washalted byaheavenly voicedeclaring theoriginalmonasterytried toconsecrate that inAD964theBishopof Constance anyway.Thestorygoes sider itworthseeing church issoover-the-top, con- youmight And theornate interior of Einsiedeln’shuge is toFrance:itsprimeplaceof pilgrimage. Einsiedeln istoSwitzerlandwhatLourdes 900m pop 12,747/elevation EINSIEDELN Einsiedeln, see opposite .) ontransportto/from Einsiedeln. (Fordetails Brunnenand through the N4,which passes centre is only afew kilometres detouroff is 40minutes away(Sfr13.40). TheSchwyz (see p233 formore information);Lucerne (Sfr8.60) onthemainnorth–southrailroute Schwyz is30minutes station awayfromZug &Away There Getting the historic in Sfr58/100; 228 Hauptplatz 3;s/dfromSfr130/200) Swiss and seasonal dishes. Swiss andseasonal 19; from Hauptplatz. and bathrooms.Toget here, followthesigns mosphere make upforthefairlybasicdorms A kitchen, laundryandyoungfriendlyat- on onesideandabudget hotel ontheother. 3; mainsSfr18-42; Eating optionsareEating dotted inandaround Wysses Rössli h SCHWYZCANTON••Einsiedeln ) 7.30am-11pm Mon-Sat,to6pmSun) Thisisacheerful backpacker’s hostel

h ( %

Ratskeller reception 10am-noon&4pm-midnight; ( 041 8111616;Postplatz4;menusSfr16.50- % h

( % 041 810 01 01; Hauptplatz 7; snacks 041 8100101;Hauptplatz7;snacks Mon-Sat) 041 811 19 22; roessli-schwyz.ch; 041 8111922;roessli-schwyz.ch;

( % h which specialises in in which specialises 041 810 10 87; Strehlgasse 041 8101087;Strehlgasse Much of theac- 8.30am-midnight) , trendy and and Apr-Nov) .ch; Benzigerstrasse;adult/childSfr4.50/2; Bethlehem diorama Continuing thereligious theme,there’s a kitschwhere religious sell stalls souvenirs. three fires.which hassomehowsurvived prayers are directed tothissmallstatue, by theentrancetochurch. Mostpilgrims’ lies isthe Moosbrugger.tect Caspar Theholiestof ho- 1719and1735byarchi-was builtbetween flowing towardsthisbaroqueedifice,which a Sfr110/160) .ch; Klosterplatz;s/dfromSfr60/90,with bathroom 9am-4pmSat,10am-1pmSun) Fri, Hauptstrasse85; siedeln.ch inGerman; 37; Hauptstrasse80;s/d withshared bathroomSfr65/100) h Benzigerstrasse; (Abbey Church;www.kloster-einsiedeln.ch; In Einsiedeln,allroadsleadtothe Sights &Activities walk). The street, overlooking Klosterplatz (a10-minute have topietyhere. taken abackseat to asmaterial comfortseems in Einseideln, It’s notreally toplanonstaying advisable Sleeping décor. smile on yourfacewith its kitschy 1970s If youget atleastput a stuck, thismight older budget rooms. nice, modernrooms,supplemented bysome Dedication Miraculous lit processiontocelebrate the rama andcoststhesame. hourswhich isopen thesame asthedio- wood-covered and backwillbringyoutothenarrow, tively, atwo-hourwalknorthof Einsiedeln of StBenedikt along thepathfor15minutes tothe andcontinuinguphill the monastery stables simplest walkbeginsbystrollingthrough ing maps(Sfr5 toSfr12). Thequickest and office for details ofoffice fordetails this‘EtzelWanderung’. Moosbrugger.tect Caspar Ask thetourist or Tüfelsbrugg), alsobuiltbyabbey archi- panorama paintingofCalvary In frontof thechurch isalarge square Hotel Linde Hotel Hotel RotHut Hotel there’sOn 14September anannual torch- The tourist office sells avarietyof sells The touristoffice hik- 5.30am-8.30pm) and, further down the same street, and,furtherdownthesame This is the best bet in town with 17 This isthebestbetintownwith17 Black Madonna tourist office tourist

for anexcellentview.Alterna- ( %

; you can follow the crowds ; youcanfollowthecrowds Devil’s Bridge Bridge Devil’s ( % 055 4184848;www.linde-einsiedeln

( % . 055 4122241;fax 41271 055 4122617;www.diorama

( % , housed inachapel , housed www.lonelyplanet.com isnearthechurch. 055 4184488;www.ein h

( (Teufelsbrücke % 8.30am-5pm Mon- Festival ofthe 055 4121174) Klosterkirche h 10am-5pm statue ,

tween Schwyz andRapperswil. tween not valid)fromthere. to Oberiberg, thenprivate bus(Swiss Pass catchbus apostal ‘back route’ insummer: siedeln toSchwyz, youcantake the scenic change atGoldau(70minutes). FromEin- (Sfr20.80, one hour),sometimesrequiring a (via Wädenswil).There are trainstoLucerne (Sfr16.20) islessthanonehouraway itself the cantonof Zürich’s trains.Zürich S-Bahn departures coincide. Itisalsowithinrange of Thisisrarelybrugg. aproblem asarrivals/ there usuallyinvolves changing atBiber- sogetting Einsiedeln isinarailcul-de-sac, &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com in aquiet,idyllicvalleythat’slush and Lucerne. The relatively humblevillage sits sort, aswellapopulardaytripfrom Switzerland’sbest-knownskire- Central Towering MtTitlis hasmade Engelberg 1050m pop 3500/elevation ENGELBERG 1 3 2 ENGELBERG By car,Einsiedelnis5kmoff Hwy8be-

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SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Ski &Snowboard School...... (see1) Show CheeseDairy...... (see 2) Mt TitlisCableCar...... Brunni CableCar...... Tourist Office...... eeitn oatr...... D2 Benedictine Monastery...... Erlenweg 8

Station

Train Bahnhofstr

Terraces the MtTitlis cablecar. Tourist office Tourist Guest card 25 September. cludes Engelberg, hasareligious holidayon of Obwalden,which in- The half-canton Information of thewinter andsummerseasons. the village openattheotherend nowstays tourists inMay andJuneensures more of inNovember,close buttheinfluxof Indian town’s shops andrestaurants. Many of these wheredestrianised), you’llfindmostof the (partiallype- The mainstreet isDorfstrasse Orientation and fans. ers, butalsomanyBollywoodfilmcrews tracts summertimeskiers andsnowboard- is snow-cappedallyearandnotonlyat- green insummer. themountain However, Tourist Center.Tourist walkfromthetrainstation,in of year)Afive-minute 8am-5pmSatrest in peakseason,8am-6.30pmMon-Fri, Klosterstrasse 3; Poststr

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h ENGELBERG •• Orientation ENGELBERG ••Orientation

0.2miles 300m 0 0 7 % Klosterstr 1 oe dles...... C1 Hotel Edelweiss...... Zur altenPost...... Yucatan...... (see 5) Axels Restaurant&WineBar...... Alpenclub...... SYHA Hostel...... Hotel Terrace...... Hotel Cathrin...... Hotel Bellevue-Terminus...... EATING SLEEPING 8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,2-6pmSun 041 6397777;www.engelberg.ch;

3

Dorf Hinter

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2 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND h admissionfree; 08 88;www.schaukaeserei-engelberg.ch; English 10amThu&Sat) 19; toursaroundSfr6; or Sfr95 fromLucerne. ingood However, utes each way) costsSfr79 fromEngelberg, mer snowboarding. andgoodsum- freestyle parkhasahalf-pipe 150m-long slidesonrubbertyres. Thenearby down totheglacierparkwhere there are free eta Sizrads als muti, mountain, (www.titlis.ch) tallest Switzerland’s Central MT TITLIS Activities Engelberg’s ENGELBERG MONASTERY Sights 230 state-of-the-art tro orbuyitintheshop. glass screen, enjoytheirproduceinthebis- can watch thecheese-makers a through monastery church monastery credibly woodinlays,andabaroque detailed roomsdecorated1729, itcontains within- fires after in thelastof devastating several retains much of itsformergrandeur. Rebuilt monks teach instead of rule,buttheirhome oftery power. wasthe seat Nowtheresident the SwissConfederation, andthemonas- ecclesiastically governed, independentlyof TheEngelbergvillage itself. valleywasonce Ice Flyerchairlift by participatingormerely The spectating. enjoy thesnowboardingandskiing, either totake itslowly.Otherwise, altitude youneed lookfarbutatthis Itdoesn’t sturdy shoes). summit, it’sabout a45-minute hike (wear outside.want toheadstraight Tothe3239m such asanicecave. Butonagoodday,you array of restaurants andtouristattractions the passage over thedazzlingTitlis Glacier. (onlythecabininsiderevolves) the Rotair for youboard (2450m).Finally,inStand Stand Transferring toalarge gondola,youheadfor (1800m). cow pastures anduptoTrübsee smallcablecar,youglideoverin thesame must ascendtoGerschnialp (1300m).Then, a breathtaking four-stage journey.First, you that’sthelastlegof on theplanet.However, completed in1992andisstilloneof thefew the world’sfirst revolving cablecar. Thiswas The return triptoTitlis (30to45min- Inside themonastery, you’llalsofinda The Titlis station (3020m) has all the usual The Titlis (3020m)hasalltheusual station 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,9am-5pmSun) ENGELBERG••Sights , isknownforbeingreached by Benedictine Monastery Benedictine

ShowCheeseDairy

(adult/child Sfr10/6) h (admission free) is the only attraction in the istheonlyattractionin 45min tours 10am & 4pm daily, in 45min tours10am&4pmdaily,in . will take you willtake you

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sunset before sunset spendingthenight. ing. Fromhere youcanwatch amagnificent hutthatnowhasindoorplumb- mountain Hütte there’s achairlift thattakes youtothe uptoRistisat1600m.Here,Sfr14/22) goes The cablecar(oneway/return insummer offers of relaxing aseries untaxing, hikes. Brunni, ontheopposite sideof thevalley, BRUNNI early November. formaintenance incloses fortwoweeks daily (lastascent/descent3.40/4.50pm),but reductions. AskEurail andInter about Rail. off-season Titlis, are 25%forSwissPass, and20%for 52). Reductionsonallfares, includingto (Sfr18/26)(Sfr37/ orStand Sfr6/9), Trübsee berg includeGerschnialp (oneway/return chure outallthepossibilities. sets tourist office’s Engelberg time. takes The aroundthesame a chair liftbeyondthelake), anddownto (2207m) takes about 1½ hours (orthere’s uptoJochpass hours down.FromTrübsee ber; ittakes abouttwohours upand1½ Wanderweg isopenfromJulyto Septem- theGeologischer andTrübsee Stand tween Be- weather, youcanwalksomesections. while there are plentyof runsallaround for near the lifts branching fromGerschnialp, skiers tryaroundBrunniand nalp. Beginner at Jochpass andtheleisure parkatEngstle- Snowboarders populate Titlis, thehalf-pipe SKIING &SNOWBOARDING any of routes. these and check onsnowconditionsbefore trying get totheBrienzersee. Acquire adecent map reach is2245m.FromMeiringen itiseasyto stlenalp andTannalp. pointyou Thehighest toMeiringenJochpass apath goes viaEng- along theroute cansave twohours. From acablecar taking to get toAttinghausen; end of hours Uri. Ittakes Lake around seven bus cantake youtoAltdorf andthesouthern fromwherescenic route a toAttinghausen, berg onfoot.TheSurenenpass (2291m)isthe In summer,it’salsopossibletoleave Engel- OTHER HIKES Sfr52/35, breakfast Sfr10) The cablewayisopen8.30amto5pm If you’re hiking,destinationsfromEngel-

( % 041 6373732;www.berghuette.ch;adult/child Look Around , arecently refurbished www.lonelyplanet.com activitybro- Brunni gelberg.ch; Terracestrasse 10;s/dfromSfr115/200) .ch) high-ceilinged diningroom. willenjoytheviewsfromits guests, though, ings of All clownsdecoratingits stairwell. withcolourfulpaint- friendly establishment, afamilygrand oldhotel haslongbeen Titlis cable car,thismodern re-creation of a equipment over alonger period. Sfr45 perday,which lower ifyourent the rates ofequipment atfairlystandard about schnialp andSfr36 forBrunni. costSfr18 forGer-days). Specificdaypasses costs Sfr52 (Sfr58 on weekends andholi- more experiencedskiers. Aone-daypass www.lonelyplanet.com Hotel Bellevue-Terminus Hotel Sleeping ture Friday) forthe130mdive. Contact and October,youcan.It’sSfr160 (Sfr150 on cable caratthetopof MtTitlis, May between pastime. If youwantto bungee jumpfroma Adrenaline sportsare anotherEngelberg ADVENTURE SPORTS directors andfilmcrews. behind Engelberg. Afavourite withIndian ing thehotel’s private funicularupthehill magnificent andyoufeel privileged catch- ingly duskypinkhues.Still,the views are newer andmore ordinary,withoverwhelm- features, butits 180roomsare somewhat dining roomretains originalArt Nouveau kykn, rfig n canyoning. and rafting kayaking, which canalsoorganise glacier-trekking, World Cup the touristoffice. Engelberg hostsaski-jump 54; www.skischule-engelberg.ch; Klosterstrasse3) 54; www.skischule-engelberg.ch; seasons; berg.ch; Birrenweg 22;s/dfrom Sfr95/170; from Sfr125/200; Terracestrasse s/d 33;standards/dfromSfr115/180,superior great valueandcomfortfortheprice. floorboards. Littlewonder,sinceitoffers guests treading over itswonderfullycreaky hotel haslots of studentsandotheryouthful picture of fadedgrandeur,thisVictorian-era room Sfr100/170; s/dSfr44/88,withbath- Bahnhofplatz; vue-engelberg.ch; Hotel TerraceHotel There’s a Shops hire skiingandsnowboarding Hotel Cathrin Hotel Hotel Edelweiss Hotel duringDecember.

( % np 041 611 14 41; www.outventure.ch; Stansstad) 041 6111441;www.outventure.ch;

( % Ski & SnowboardSchool Ski h ) Inaquiet locationnearthe Mt 041 6397733;www.weltcup-engelberg h

( % closed btwnseasons) ( % ( % year-round; 041 6374466;www.cathrin-engel 041 6396666;www.terrace.ch; 041 6397878;www.edelweissen

( % 041 6396868;www.belle ip TheTerrace’s h

( ) % Thevery closed btwn 041 639 54 041 63954 Outven- inside inside This , h than aminute fromthegate. will dropyouless The skiandshuttle buses access toitsrestaurant facilities. andsauna totheSporthotelattached Einenwäldli,has h waeldli.ch; campsitesperperson/smalltent/carSfr8/8.50/2; sonally large. modern, butsomeof itsdormsare imper- side of thetracks.It’sclean,roomyand back downthetrainlineonnorthern free with aguestcardor trainticket; Sfr1 village’s major hotels and attractions.It’s forall the half-hour every tion roughly shuttle busleaves theEngelberg trainsta- tickets. specialMtTitlistourist office’s excursion If comingonadaytrip,check theLucerne an hourfromLucerne(Sfr15.60 oneway). Engelberg isattheendof atrainline,about &Around There Getting 12.30am Wed-Sun) 50;mainsSfr40-50; Dorfstrasse Alpenclub Eating &Drinking as aconservatory. chalet andfitnessfacilities,aswell hassauna dishes, givingthemamoderntwist. andrisotto tweaks classiccarpaccio,lasagne cuisine. Head chef Axel Kirchner gently attention withitsMediterranean-influenced hasgarnered andindeed national Geneva ant wouldn’tbeoutof placeinZürich or après-ski placeintown. tan macaroni cheese). lunch of röstiorAlpermagorinen(aform of favouritefirm everyday forcoffee orahearty Sfr14.50-25; pizzas andSwissfood. amixof localinstitution,itserves standing adventures.early mountaineering Along- negativesshades madefromsepia-toned of chairscomplex, withcarved-back andlamp- mosphere iswonderfulinthislow-ceilinged berge.ch; Dorfstrasse 80;dm/dSfr32.40/84.80; berge.ch; Dorfstrasse btwn seasons; Camping Einenwäldli Camping Between earlyJulyandmid-October, a Between SYHA hostel Zur Alten Post Alten Zur Mexican-style barandrestaurant Axels Restaurant &WineBar Restaurant Axels

9am-late daily,closedTue &WedJulAug) year-round) (Hotel Bellevue-Terminus)

( h % ip Thisdeluxe campingground, 8am-7pm) 041 637 12 43; Dorfstrasse; mainsSfr18-48; 041 6371243;Dorfstrasse;

Thischic minimalistrestaur- (

% ENGELBERG ••Sleeping ( % ) Thishostel is10minutes 041 6371292;www.familienher 041 637 25 24; Dorfstrasse; meals meals 041 6372524;Dorfstrasse; Nothingfancy,justa

( % isthemostpopular h 041 6371949;www.eien 11.30am-2pm &6pm-

( % 041 637 09 09; 041 6370909; Theat- h

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closed 231 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND notable mainlyfor its3Dmodelof notable thetown, Oswald’s Church, isthe andUnterOber Altstadt Altstadt. ing, pedestrian-onlystreets of Fischmarkt, clock’s arch, youcanveer off intothecharm- the in1352).Walkingthrough the seventh cantons tojointheConfederation (Zugwas the 1557clockfacerepresent thefirst eight cantonal colours. Theheraldicshields below distinctive tiledroof isintheblueandwhite h ( blem, the town centre.eval atthetown’sem- Itstarts It’s hardnottobeenchanted byZug’smedi- Sights &Activities office Tourist Information left) andheadsouthforanother700m. AlbertMeier Confiserie (you’ll see toyour the roundaboutatheadof Alpenstrasse exitinto Town, followthemaintrainstation and money-exchange counters. FortheOld andhasbikeOld Town(Altstadt), rental is1kmnorthof Thetrainstation the see. Zug hugsthenortheastern shore of Zuger- Orientation visitors inpeacetoabsorbthescenery. about theirbusinessquietly,leaving other likeever, allgoodSwisscompanies,Zugsgo a few more luxurycars thannormal.How- tonoticeallthepeopleinsuitsand you start riches. Undoubtedly, after anhour intown, boastaboutits cal Swissmodestyitdoesn’t richest placeinthecountry,butwithtypi- about halfthenationalaverage –thisisthe inSwitzerland– neath. Withthelowesttax immediately realise theenormouswealthbe- Old Townandplacidlake, not youmight To lookat Zug, withitsattractive medieval 426m pop 22,917/elevation ZUG ZUG CANTON for getting totheslopes. without. Inwinter, there are free skibuses 232 map here. 9am-4pmSat,9am-3pmSun)Pick7pm Mon-Fri, upacity Zug,inside maintrainstation; .ch; Reisezentrum % Uphill from the clock tower, opposite St Uphill fromtheclock tower,opposite St 2-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon&2-5pm Sat&Sun) 2-5pm Tue-Fri, 041 728 32 97; Kirchenstrasse; adult/child Sfr5/1, free Sun; adult/child Sfr5/1,free Sun; 041 7283297;Kirchenstrasse; ZUGCANTON••Zug Zytturm ( % 041 7236800;www.zug-tourismus

(clock tower;Kolinplatz) Museum inderBurg Museum , whose , whose h . This is . Thisis 9am-

the hostel signforabout 10minutes. leftandcontinuingpast lagen, thencurving inthedirectionheading right of theSportan- take theDammstrasse/Grafenaustation, exit, communal kitchen. Towalkhere fromthe hostel hasa isclean andmodern,even desplatz; ming inthevicinity. this isavery attractive spot,withfree swim- the shore of thelake, 2kmwestof thecentre, Metalli exitfromthetrainstation. nies. BusNo11willget youhere fromthe of itscompactmodernroomshave balco- aperfect chill-outseems spot,as thepriciest it principallycaters tobusinesstravellers, it the lake fromahillsouthof town.Although tive three clover leafs,scenically overlooks an .loewen-zug.ch; Landsgemeindeplatz;s/dfromSfr180/260; camp sitesperadult/tent/carSfr7.80/7/4; main square. Domus, which is in aprimespot on the its downstairs Mediterranean restaurant, lake views.Thehotel isalsorenowned for are of very and several themenjoy civilised Camping Brüggli Camping Sleeping funicular station. funicular. BusNo11gets youtothelower best deal,asitcovers allbusridesandthe active. TheZugdaypass(Sfr11.40) isthe pressive views, orhikingtrailsforthemore the Zugerberg (988m),where there are im- homesick incolderweather). ingly afamilyof scarletibis(lookingabit there’s anaviary of exoticbirds,moststrik- Town, is past tendency topartiallysinkintothelake. it’s anexcellentintroductiontoZug–andits English. Despite thenarrative’s stilted style, French inGerman, with commentary and 5-10pm, hostel closed early Jan–early Mar; 5-10pm, hostelclosedearlyJan–earlyMar; Allmendstrasse 8;dm/dSfr31/95; utes Sfr12/20) andotherboatsare forhire. On the waterfront, pedalos(per30/60min- depositrequired).no cost(IDandmonetary in gital.ch; Zugerbergstrasse46;sSfr115-160,dSfr185-220; Hotel Guggital Hotel SYHA hostel Hotel LöwenamSee Hotel City bikes The On thewaterfront, justnorthof the Old ) ) h Thiswhite building,withitsdistinc- Therecently renovated roomshere Schönegg funicular Landsgemeindeplatz 9am-9pm May-Oct)

( %

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( 041 761 33 55; outside the Rathaus, Bun- 041 7613355;outsidetheRathaus, %

( % 041 711 53 54; www.youthhostel.ch; 041 7115354;www.youthhostel.ch; 041 7418422;ChamerFussweg 36; 041 7112821;www.hotel-gug

( www.lonelyplanet.com % are loanedoutfor willtake youup h 041 7252222;www . Inthissquare reception 7-10am& h ip Apr-Oct) ) Zug’s Zug’s On On Fri, 8am-4pmSat) Fri, Bahnhofplatz; zugerkirschtorte.ch; Sfr28/75; fromOberer Altstadt1;mealsinBistro/Zunftstube h Sun) mains Sfr16-38; Am Kolinplatz;s/d/tw/steSfr175/210/255/320; www.lonelyplanet.com favourite. lake iscommon;bream or insummer.door seating Fish fromthe andmosthaveLandsgemeindeplatz, out- The bestrestaurants congregate around Eating gant, traditionalandpricey Both theground-floor bistroandtheele- cheaper onweekends. and thelake. Pricesare about10%to20% 503, haswonderfulviewsof theZytturm ecologically soundfeel. Thejuniorsuite, No naturalwoodandfibresrooms use foran and blackwithafew daubsof colour. Newer roomsareits quaintfaçade. Standard white streamlinedness hotel andhasbeen behind theOchsenhosted todayisabusi- Goethe, itdatesAlthough from1480andonce curry andmore. Malay Townfish soup,Cape biltong, Cape of SouthAfricandisheslistsostrich steak, As wellasSwissandfish specialities,apage unexpected.feel, butthemenuisslightly of wisdomgive thistavern atraditional of theview. upstairs Panorama totake advantage Bar prime locationonthemainsquare, andthe thisrestaurantand home-madepasta, hasa fish equallysplitbetween menu thatseems here minutes after leaving thetrain. most convenient; you canget asugar rush best. Andifit’snot thebest,atleastit’s over town,butthiscaféclaims to bake the withstrong cherryfused brandy.It’ssoldall biscuit, almondpaste andbutter cream, in- schtorte atmosphere. spoilthe thatitjustdoesn’t so pleasant ice issoprofessional andthesurrounds rate customers, butsomehowtheserv- Zunftstube above are dotted withcorpo- Ochsen Zug Widder Schiff Gasthaus Rathauskeller Gasthaus Confiserie Albert Meier Albert Confiserie 11-12.30am summer,reduced hrwinter) Roof beams carved withGothicwords Roof beamscarved

h , acherry cake madefrompastry, (

% ( % 11.30am-2.30pm &3.30-10.30pmTue-Sat) 041 7110055;Graben2;mainsSfr25-37; h

( Alocalspecialityis 041 7110316;Landsgemeindeplatz12; % 11am-midnight Mon-Sat,11am-11pm 041 7293232;www.ochsen-zug.ch;

( %

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Fri rest ofyear) Fri 9am-noon&2-5.30pmMon- Mon-Sat Jul,Aug&Dec-Mar, 887 1454;www.andermatt.ch; bus.ch forthebus tours offered this year. for driving orbustours. Check www.post Gotthard andFurka –it’sanexcellentbase major –Susten, Oberalp,St Alpinepasses Sfr25 forRealp. Sfr42 forNätschen/GütschGemsstock, and up here. costSfr53 perdayfor Skipasses free routes before towalkcertain heading training centre, check beforehand thatyou’re way/return. cable carfromAndermattcostsSfr18/36 one and advanced).Thejourneytothetopby for bothhikingandskiing(intermediate The Sights &Activities core of thevillage. The hiking andwinter sportsdestination. Gotthard Tunnel,butitremains apopular bytheNowadays, thetownisbypassed post onthenorth–southSt Gotthard route. staging- Andermatt wasonceanimportant At thesouthernendof thecantonof Uri, 1447m pop 1313/elevation ANDERMATT PASSGOTTHARD Pass travel. holders get half-price other destinationsaroundthelake. Swiss south toArthinthesummerandmany north of travelling Landsgemeindeplatz, lake, thenrejoins theN4atGoldau. aroundtheeasternthe corset shore of the the N4northof completes ZugatSihlbrugg, off Hwy25peels and ontoLuganoItaly. theStGotthardPasswhich continuesthrough shore of Zugersee andjoinstheN2(E35), from Zürich, aroundthewestern sweeps Oberland. cerne (Sfr16.40) andtheBernese trains fromZürich alsobranch offtoLu- from Zürich (Sfr13.40) toLugano,where Zug isonthemainnorth–southtrainroute &Away There Getting office. office. busticketshares hutasthepostal thesame As Andermattissituated near four asAndermattisamajorHowever, army is400mnorthofThe trainstation the Boats departfromZug’sSchiffsstation, By road,thenorth–southN4(E31)runs Gemsstock GOTTHARD PASSGOTTHARD ••Andermatt , 200mtotheleftof thestation, peak (2963m) is a focal point (2963m)isafocalpoint peak h tourist office tourist 9am-noon &2-5.30pm

( %

233

041 CENTRAL SWITZERLAND CENTRAL CENTRAL SWITZERLAND doing motorcycletours. provides great value. It’spopularwiththose cablecar,hasgoodviewsand Gemsstock far southsideof thevillage ishandyforthe exciting modernexterior, thishotel onthe matt.ch; s/dSfr90/150; the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake season. inthelow rooms, butmanyplacesclose canhelpfindprivateThe touristoffice Sleeping 234 © LonelyPlanetPublications this hotel –like mostinAndermatt–hasa Swiss chalet nearthecentre of thevillage, p www.3koenige.ch Gotthardstrasse69;s/dfromSfr95/190; 15 25;adult/student&seniorSfr6/4; August). The early October(dailyfrommid-Julytolate mid-Juneand Friday toSundaybetween (there’s Englishtext). history of thepassandGotthardTunnel is.Itchronicles the only whenthepassitself on theStGotthardPass (2109m),isopen trains Hotel 3Könige&Post Hotel From Realp,alongtheflatvalley, Hotel Aurora Hotel ) GOTTHARD PASS GOTTHARD ••Andermatt With nostalgic roomsinatraditional Withnostalgic

(www.furka-bergstrecke.ch)

( St GotthardMuseum % p 041 8871661;www.aurora-ander ) Despite itsfairlyun-

run to Furka from runtoFurkafrom h ( % 9am-6pm Jun-Oct) 041 8870001;

( % 091 869 091 869 steam steam , trains. Itshould be completed in2012. andfreight Tunnel, designedforhigh-speed underway buildingthenewGotthardBase cino, bypassingAndermatt.Workisalready toAiroloinTi-from Göschenen toclose 17km tunnelopenedin1980,andextends north–south routes acrosstheAlps.The Tunnel (N2/E35)isoneof thebusiest TheGotthardstop bythetrainstation. Tunnel (theroute toValais). Postbuses theFurka tion: Graubünden)andthrough carrying trainsover theOberalpPass (direc- .ch; Gotthardstrasse64;s/dfromSfr95/180; minutes away. south destinations,change atGöschenen, 15 toStMoritz.Fornorth– from Zermatt Andermatt isastopontheGlacierExpress &Away There Getting bath. butitalsoboastsaeucalyptussteamsauna, 887 1220) excellent menu. dog–andhasan the famousStBernard –namedafter It’s knownforitsBarrybar modernrooms. friendly placewithpleasant Kronen Hotel can supply details aboutthecar- cansupplydetails

( Andermatt trainstation % 041 8870088;www.kronenhotel www.lonelyplanet.com

p ( % ) A 041