CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Central Switzerland Switzerland Central 212 © Lonelyplanetpublications Reminiscent Ofvenice
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
© Lonely Planet Publications 212 www.lonelyplanet.com CENTRAL SWITZERLAND •• Orientation & Information 213 Orientation & Information Getting There & Around The official tourist region of Central Swit- The nearest airport is Zürich, while road zerland (Zentralschweiz) has at its heart and rail connections are excellent in all Central Switzerland Lake Lucerne (the Vierwaldstättersee or directions. An interesting way to leave Lake of the Four Forest Cantons), which the region is on the William Tell Express is surrounded by the four cantons of Lu- ( p331 ). cerne, Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden (it- If you don’t have a Swiss or Eurail Pass self subdivided into the half-cantons of (both include lake journeys), you might In its own way as gorgeous as the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland’s geographical and politi- Nidwalden and Obwalden). Also included want to consider purchasing the regional cal heartland has a more soothing beauty. The mountains hunching conspiratorially around in this region is Switzerland’s smallest Tell-Pass (www.tell-pass.ch; per 7/15 days Sfr140/188; Lake Lucerne at the core of the region are greener and less jagged, and a greater number rural canton of Zug, containing Lake Zug hApr-Oct) for rail and boat travel. Sold by of Alpine villages and larger towns make the place feel more lived-in and familiar. (Zugersee). In the north and west, Central the Lucerne tourist office and at all boat Switzerland is fairly flat, but a southern stations, it provides travel for two/five The pact that kick-started the Swiss nation was signed here more than 700 years ago on tip reaches into the Alps as far as the St days respectively, and half-price fares for Gotthard Pass. the remainder. the shores of Lake Uri, and Central Switzerland is the guardian of many Swiss founding tales For information on the entire region, con- The Vierwaldstättersee guest card, availa- and myths. Its far-east corner is William Tell country, where the legendary patriot is said to tact the tourist office in Lucerne ( p214 ). ble whenever you’re staying anywhere in this have shot an apple from his son’s head and gone on the run. The nearby Rütli meadow is 0 20 km revered as the exact spot where Switzerland was signed into being in 1291; the village of CENTRAL SWITZERLAND 0 12 miles Schwyz still proudly displays that original constitution. To Zürich N1 Reuss (7km) N1 Hallwiler Zofingen See ST GALLEN CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Interesting stories attach themselves to many places, from the Christian miracle that AARGAU ZÜRICH Muri Stäfa Rapperswil Reinach made Einsiedeln a place of pilgrimage to the pagan superstitions surrounding several peaks. Lake Zürich (Zürichsee) According to legend, the ghost of Pontius Pilate haunts Mt Pilatus, while mischievous elves Langenthal Wädenswil N2 Baldegger Baar N3 See inhabit the sides of Mt Rigi. Zug Sursee Hochdorf Biberbrugg ZUG Ziegelbrücke Eschenbach Lake Zug To Sempacher N14 Sihlsee Taking a cable car up these panoramic mountains, and others like them such as Mt Titlis Bern (Zugersee) Ägerisee Niederurnen (47km) Willisau See Einsiedeln Näfels and the Stanserhorn, is one of the main pastimes here. Meanwhile, lake steamers bob from Huttwil Wägitaler Ruswill See Lake Lucerne Map (p222) See shore to shore, and there’s plenty of scenic hiking and skiing to be enjoyed. Arth Kl Mythen Wolhusen Lucerne Mt Rigi Glarus (1797m) (1811m) SCHWYZ CENTRAL SWITZERLAND N4 Weggis Goldau Gr Mythen LUZERN Malters Lake Lucerne Klöntaler Of course, as the largest town, Lucerne itself remains pivotal to the experience. Built on Mt (Vierwaldstättersee) (1898m) Pilatus Brunnen Schwyz See water, with medieval bridges, old squares and a striking skyline, it’s one of the country’s (2120m) Hergiswil Lucerne/Buochs Airfield N2 Lake Uri main drawcards. Sometimes, when tour guides in medieval costume appear, it’s even vaguely Langnau Stans (Urnersee) Braunwald Tunnel reminiscent of Venice. Fortunately, however, it never gets that choked or busy. Stanserhorn Linthal Sarnen (1898m) Flüelen Altdorf GLARUS Wiggen Sarner See NIDWALDEN Attinghausen Klausen Reuss Pass HIGHLIGHTS OBWALDEN OBWALDEN Surenen- pass URI Engelberg Admiring the Kapellbrücke ( p214 ) in Lucerne City Wall; UNTERWALDEN Kapellbrücke; and climbing the city wall ( p216 ) Engstlenalp Mt Titlis (3239m) Picasso Museum; Jochpass Sammlung Rosengart Mt Rigi Seeing two sides of Pablo, in the Picasso Meiringen Lake Lake Brienz Susten Museum ( p216 ) and Sammlung Rosengart Mt Pilatus Pass Lucerne (Brienzersee) Innertkirchen ( p216 ) Interlaken Oberalp Disentis/Mustér Göschenen Pass Taking a cruise around Lake Lucerne ( p222 ) Gotthard GRAUBÜNDEN Tunnel Enjoying a mountain day-trip to the peak of BERN Andermatt Mt Titlis Gemsstock Mt Titlis ( p230 ) or Mt Pilatus ( p222 ) Furka (2963m) Grimsel Pass Pass Waking up to an unforgettable sunrise on top of Gletsch Tunnel 1800m Mt Rigi ( p223 ) Airolo Oberwald TICINO Ulrichen St Gotthard Pass N2 To Lugano POPULATION: 695,058 AREA: 4484 SQ KM LANGUAGE: GERMAN I T A L Y (60km) 214 LUCERNE •• Orientation www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com LUCERNE 215 0 200 m region, is worth having; you should ask for LAUNDRY LUCERNE 0 0.1 miles it if your accommodation doesn’t offer it. Jet Wash (%041 240 01 51; Bruchstrasse 28; h8.30am- ACB D Benefits include various discounts on sport- 12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri, 9 To Rotsee (1.5km); 35 Denkmalstr ing facilities, 10% to 50% off certain cable 9am-2pm Sat) 36 SYHA Hostel (1.5km); 13 0 100 m Grendelstr Sedel (1.5km); cars, and reductions on museum admission Mariahilfgasse Falkenplatz Zug (29km) Zürichstr str Ka Sternenplatz 7 in Lucerne and elsewhere. MEDICAL SERVICES 1 Old Graben 37 pu zin Town 28 44 ὈὈὈerweg Permanence Medical Center (%041 211 14 44; Base- WeggisgasseTheilingasse Kapellplatz 24 ment, Hauptbahnhof; h24hr) Löwengraben Hirschenplatz 1 Kapellgasse 8 27 Kornmarkt 16 To Basel Mühlenplatz Rössligasse Löwenplatz To Hotel LUCERNE (103km); Reussbrücke 32 33 markt Rathausquai Montana MONEY Bern Wein 43 (300m) (115km) 34 Nadelwehr Kapellbrücke 25 Unter der Egg Löwenstr26 pop 57,817 / elevation 435m There are numerous ATMs all around the (Water Spikes) 30 Reuss Alpenstr Legend has it that an angel with a light Hauptbahnhof. Hofkirche showed Lucerne’s first settlers where to build Hauptbahnhof (%041 227 36 46; h8.30am-6pm ὈὈTo Hospital 18 41 (600m) instr Haldenstr a chapel, and in good weather even an atheist Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Musseggstr St-Leodegar-Str 2 Hertenste Nationalquai Museggmauer 21 6 might describe the city’s location as heaven- 20 To Palace Luzern (400m); POST N2 Pension Villa Maria (1.5km); sent. Lapped by a scenic lake, surrounded by See Enlargement Schweizerhofquai Verkehrshaus (1.5km); Grend elst r (%041 229 95 23; cnr Bahnhofstrasse 14 Mariahilfgasse 19 Camping Lido (2km); mountains of myth – a picture of this once Main post office 31 Strandbad Lido (2km) small fishing village and its wooden Kapell- & Bahnhofplatz; h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm St-Karli-Quai Sat) By the train station. Lake Lucerne brücke (Chapel Bridge) is enough to connote Seebrücke ὈὈὈὈὈ (Vierwaldstättersee) Spreuerbrücke Kapellgasse the very essence of Switzerland. LöwengrabenRössligasse 10 Weinmarkt Baselstr Reussbrücke Rathausquai Between the 13th and 19th centuries, TOURIST INFORMATION To Château 15 Gutsch (150m) 11 Kasernenplatz Reuss 47 Boat Quays CENTRAL SWITZERLAND Lucerne (Luzern in German, or ‘the city of Luzern Tourism (enquiries %041 227 17 17, hotel Kapellbrücke 38 Hirschengraben lights’) made its fortune as an essential stop reservations 041 227 17 27; www.luzern.org; Europa- Bahnhofstr Bahnhof- platz 3 39 46 Theat platz Inseliquai on the trade route over the Alps. Then its Zentralstrasse 5; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 4 Jesuitenkirche e charming medieval centre and its fabulous 7.30pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 6.30pm May & Bur Rittersche 5 12 rstr 3 ὈὈ g Palace ὈὈ position began attracting tourists. It’s never Oct, 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun Nov- 2 erstr Franziskanerkirche Hallwilerweg Hauptbahnhof Frohburgstr looked back. Apr) Reached from either Zentralstrasse or from Platform 3 17 Pilatusstr of the train station. Offers city walking tours. 29 Frankenstr Klosterstr Bruchstr Orientation Zentralstr The city is on the western edge of its name- Sights Zähringerstr 42 sake lake, straddling the Reuss River. The MEDIEVAL BRIDGES Sempacherstr To Backpackers CENTRAL SWITZERLAND 40 22 Lucerne Kapellbrücke ὈὈ ObergrunὈὈὈὈ(700m) medieval town centre is on the northern The (Chapel Bridge), crossing riverbank, within walking distance of the the Reuss River in the Old Town, is Lu- 4 23 Pilatusstr Hauptbahnhof (train station) on the south- cerne’s most potent symbol. It dates from dstr ern side. the 14th century and the octagonal water INFORMATION Habsburgerstr Internetcafé........................................1 A1 tower remains original. However its sides Jet Wash............................................2 A3 Waldstätterstr Information and gabled roof are modern reconstruc- Luzern Tourism..................................3 C3 Main Post Office................................4 C3 Langensandbrücke BOOKSHOPS tions, rebuilt after a disastrous fire in 1993. Permanence Medical Center...............5 C3 To The Bed and Bundesstr Schweizerhof Buchhandlung..............6 C2 Breakfast (400m); Schweizerhof Buchhandlung (%041 410 23 71; The bridge is famous for the triangular, Stadtbibliothek.................................(see 8) Alphornbau Stocker Mythenstr Neustadtstr