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Hello Bali Magazine 9 7 7 0 2 1 6 3 4 4 6 3 2 IDR 40,000 SEPTEMBER 2010 / VOL 15 NO 09 www.hellobalimagazine.com celuk for the silver lining world of the distros banda islands in a nutshell retail therapy retail / celuk for the silver lining silver the for celuk / world of the distros the of world / banda islands in a nutshell a in islands banda retail / the winners of our 2010 awards bobour of winners the therapy your guide to getting a bang for your buck september 2010 / vol 15 no 09 no 15 vol 2010 / september plus the winners of our 2010 bob awards offshore one of the world’s most precious islands, banda was coveted by many banda in a nutshell ast April, a local scuba diving their preservative and medicinal qualities. community, Forum Selam Arab merchants endured arduous caravan (www.forumselam.com), routes through India and the Persian Gulf successfully organised the in search of pala (nutmeg), believed to be a first Banda Underwater Photo cure for the epidemic Black Death in medieval Rally Competition 2010. Europe, resulting in huge demands and This week-long event was skyrocketing prices. held in conjunction with Indonesia’s largest Lmarine event, Sail Banda 2010 (www.sailbanda. com), fully endorsed by the Maluku Regional Government, Maluku Tourism Board, and major general M Noer Muis. FOR WHAT IT’S WORTH Nutmeg contains hallucinogens and getting there As project officer of the The closest airports with competition and moderator shares a common chemical ingredient connections to Ambon of Forum Selam, I was granted with ecstasy, a rave drug. are Jakarta, Makassar and a front row seat on a very Denpasar. Airlines serving special voyage to the Banda Historically used as a hypnotic Ambon from Jakarta and Bali Islands, travelling with the medicine, today nutmeg and mace are include Batavia Air (www. batavia-air.co.id) and Lion ever-gracious, adventurous and used mostly in baking recipes, sauces Air (www.lionair.co.id). From amicable major general Muis on and liqueurs. Ambon catch a PELNI (www. his spacious KM Siwalima boat. pelni.com) ferry to Banda. Excessive nutmeg usage can cause accommodation a spicy sojourn clinical intoxication. Symptoms in Banda Neira A cluster of small islands of include nausea, vomiting, dizziness, Hotel Maulana historical and cultural importance anxiety, headaches, hallucinations, and T: 0910 21022 lies between Sulawesi and irrational behaviour. www.divingbanda.com Papua in the heart of the Maluku Delfika Guesthouse T: 0910 21027 Islands, promising chilling memories of Dutch-colonial- the barbaric invasions weather permitting era violence, enchanting tales Formerly native only to the Banda Islands, the The best time to visit the of its lucrative spices (nutmeg, source of these prized spices was kept a secret Banda Islands is from mace, and cloves), and hidden from the Europeans until the Portuguese arrival September to April, for calm the indonesian edition of “lonely planet” introduces this seas and cetacean sightings. secrets in its abandoned ruins. on the Spice Islands in 1512. When they failed Exceptional natural beauty, to dominate the spice trade, the Dutch and country as “big, cheap, rough, and effortless.” by effortless fascinating geological processes the British quickly tried to jump on the boat, we assume they mean that it is effortlessly beautiful; and some of the world’s most biologically diverse resulting in prolonged struggles to control marine life characterise the Banda Islands. the Bandas, leaving behind remnants of their because there is nothing effortless about getting to In the Elizabethan times, nutmeg violent military campaigns in the forms of eerie the archipelago’s fabled spice islands: the banda islands (the nut from the nutmeg tree) and mace fortresses, loosely scattered cannons, countless (the dried lacy scarlet aril) were highly regarded wartime relics, and colonial-style mansions text and images meliana salim by the Europeans for their flavours, and also adorned with VOC (Dutch East Indies) symbols. 54 55 offshore this page “are you my conscience?” opposite page old fort, old church, and a gorgeous sea - perfection HIGHLIGHTS Upgrade your cultural and historical knowledge of Indonesia at Rumah Budaya (a museum) and 1820s Istana Mini (the VOC Governor’s Residence); the latter houses a rusty statue of Dutch King Willem III. Learn what it was like to live in exile in the homes of anti-Dutch nationalist leaders Mohammad Hatta (Rumah Pengasingan Bung Hatta) and Sultan Syahrir (Rumah Pengasingan Bung Syahrir). Spot gorgeous mansions once owned by perkeniers (Dutch planters) on Jl. Gereja Tua and observe the antique tomb-stoned floors of Gereja Tua, a restored 1852 catholic church. Cheer on the participants of pertandingan kora-kora (traditional Maluku boat races held in December) as they paddle furiously through the deep waters between Gunung Api and Banda Neira. Kora-kora is Maluku’s trademark canoe, shaped like a Chinese dragon boat, used in trade a boy from banda turned heritage. A conversation with Pak Des, who is and war during the colonial periods. king of banda also the grandson of Said Tjong Baadilla, the For the rest of the year, kora-kora For some celebrity shoulder-rubbing, it’s best legendary Pearl King of the East Indies, is time demonstration can be arranged from to loiter in Hotel Maulana, Banda Neira’s most well spent in Banda. your local hotel. “luxurious” (two stars at best) residence, boasting impressive A-listers, such as the late Princess banished to banda At sunrise or sunset, head to the Diana, Mick Jagger, Jacques Cousteau, and Bali’s Banda Neira, the islands’ main port and hilltop Benteng Belgica (Fort Belgica), own Dr Lawrence Blair of the book “Ring of Fire”. administrative capital, is best explored on a massive five-pointed star-shaped A trip to Banda will only be complete if foot. This charming, laid-back town is perfect extensively restored Dutch fortress one’s lucky enough to meet Bapak Des Alwi, for getting lost in. You may also hire a becak named after governor general Pieter the 80-year-young King of Banda; an influential (Indonesian rickshaw) or ojek (motorcycle Both’s native Flanders. Local children pioneer, entrepreneur, writer – he recently taxi) to take you around. I imagine Brad and love to play hide-and-seek in the published a memoir called “A Boy from Banda: Barry Klinge, Discovery Channel’s “Ghost passages and bastions of this A History of Spice Island Childhood” – and a Lab” brothers, will have a field day with the majestic fort, which was recently passionate philanthropist whose foundation numerous spooky historical sites scattered all added to the UNESCO World Heritage aims to preserve Banda’s natural and cultural over Banda Neira. Tentative Lists. 56 57 offshore Visit the Spanciby Nutmeg Plantation in underwater beauty 1 Bandas’ largest island, Pulau Banda Besar, The potential of discovering virgin dive sites Expect beautiful white beaches, and learn how to slice open a nutmeg fruit in the Banda Islands is enormous. Those great visibility and photogenic with a parang (cutlass) from a caretaker. closer to populated islands show evidence corals in Pulau Hatta, especially in of human activities and impacts; garbage Tanjung Seram. Climb the fertile volcanic floating offshore, fishing nets entangled in 2 slopes of the 666-metre Gunung Api corals, fish choking on plastic and a declining Beware of sweeping currents in Pulau – last erupted in 1988 – before sunrise for marine population due to over fishing. Make Run’s spectacular drop-offs. stunning daybreak views of Banda Neira and diving arrangements with the islands’ only dive Banda Besar. operator, Spice Island Divers (www.divingbanda. The lava flow below Gunung Api makes com), but bring your own scuba gear for peace for a dramatic dive, encompassing Sun-worshippers must hop to Hatta, Ai, of mind. Collect any trash you see and put it in healthy hard corals patrolled by 3 and Neilaka islands for stretches of pristine your BCD pockets for later disposal. schooling bumphead parrotfish. beaches and world-class snorkelling. Bear in mind that amenities and facilities are limited to primitive guesthouses, solar-powered The Banda Islands offer a unique opportunity electricity, and rainwater. HIGHLIGHTS to delve into history and embark on the trip Snorkel the waters in front of Hotel of a lifetime. These peaceful islands hold the In the 17th century, Pulau Run’s nutmeg Maulana – appropriately dubbed promise of returning to their former glory, 4 trees were destroyed by the Dutch, “Mandarin City” – for encounters this time not only for their spices but for the rendering it worthless to the English, and with the Bandas’ mascot and every intriguing historical lands and captivating leading to the eventual exchange with Holland underwater photographer’s dream: underwater beauty. It is our utmost duty as of a North American island of equal disvalue in the playful, kaleidoscopic Mandarin residents of Indonesia to promote sustainable 1667 – an amusing fact considering that island fish. Watch out for the abundant sea tourism and help the local community in is now known as Manhattan, New York. urchins and try not to swallow the this magical region. Remember to take only garbage-infested water. pictures, leave only bubbles and kill only time. • 58.
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