Style

Trends such as streetwear may come and go, but as every well-heeled gentleman knows, what tends to stay the course in menswear is invest- ment pieces. And tailoring exemplifies that rule. Whether your style is buttoned-up or casual, it all starts with exceptionally made suits, jack- ets and trousers. There have never been more smart options, thanks to relentless Italian and Japanese R&D. But it’s not just all about great new fabrics (although out that Coherence coat on page 129 for one great example) or fresh ideas (why have we not seen more tuxedos?) because the oldest game in town—bespoke—has never been more popular. There’s now a proliferation of choices, from high-brow Italian and British tailors opening more shops in the States to online services and young local tailors setting up ateliers. And while it pays to build a personalized wardrobe of exceptional qual- ity, that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the fun of some of the key seasonal trends. Add a splash of color with accessories, knitwear or even some swim shorts, and you’ll stand out—but only for the right reasons.

Jill Newman Deputy Editor

115 116 NOVEMBERJUNE 2019 STYLE 2018WINE “ shoes. shoes. Ermenegildo Zegna ($3,500,)suit and shirt; Men (.com)Dior Chef Joseph “JJ”Johnson square.” or pocket a turtleneck sneakers,with my up suits I like to style movement, andlightweight, softmaterialswere allprevalent. Soaway flaunted the two-piece—some even withoutashirtunderneath(don’tflaunted thetwo-piece—some from thecatwalks, whatdoesthatmeanforyou? Take your cuefrom Sharper cuts, roomier silhouettesthatstill flatterbutdeliver easeof structure ofthepast. If you’re skeptical, especiallyafterNew York’s worry, we’re notadvocating that)—reviving itinamoderncontext. these Turns outthereports ofitsdeathwere alittleexagerated, because conservative bastion ofwealth GoldmanSachs declared aflexible the suitisback—but thistimewithoutmuchoftheformalityand Paris andMilan earlierintheyear. Menswear brands downright dress codeinMarch, just looktotherunway shows inLondon, Robb Report readers whowe asked toexpress theirstyle and wear your freedom. suitwithattitude—and Lives On Lives The Suit The Photographs by MarkMann Styled by AlexStyled Badia Big Idea

Jill Newman

MARKETGUTTER CREDITSEDITOR: LUIS CAMPUZANO

GUTTER CREDITS “ Architect Vishaan Chakrabarti breaking them.” and the rules understanding It’s about it. youon how wear depending fun, rigor oreven professionalism, conveyA suitcan turtleneck. ($14,140)suit and Kiton (kiton.com) WINE ROBBREPORT.COM 117 118 NOVEMBER 2018WINE “ ($1,050), shirt and tie. ($1,050), shirt jacket ($3,925), trousers Hermès CEO, Group Design Villency Eric Villency different ways.” and wear in it personality yourShow auniform. as it don’t thinkof trick The is (hermes.com)

GUTTER CREDITS

GUTTER CREDITS “ Corneliani and tie; shirt ($1,295), jacket trousers ($4,995), (ralphlauren.com) LaurenRalph Christie’s International Head of Jewelry Rahul Kadakia work.” dress upto goto the way we still I thinkit’s charming and world business, Auctions are anold- clients. I’m seeing and elegant when more together put A suitmakes mefeel shoes.

STYLE ROBBREPORT.COM WINE ROBBREPORT.COM 119 “ A suit makes you a bit sharper when you’re meeting clients. Finance is a serious business, and it requires a level of serious dressing.”

Paul Abrahimzadeh Financier

Brioni (brioni.com) double-breasted suit ($6,800); Paul Smith sweater and Santoni shoes.

120 NOVEMBERJUNE 2019 2018STYLE WINE BEACHWEAR

Milan’s Larusmiani might be known for stylish, tailored clothing but now, with a new boutique at the five-star Le Sereno hotel in St. Bart’s and seasonal shops in Porto Cervo and St. Mortiz, it also created the season’s best beachwear. Because once you’ve got the basics covered (you’ve already got three pairs of navy swim shorts, right?), it’s time to have some fun with Larusmiani’s playful tiger print trunks, which is sold alongside it’s beachy shirts, sandals and accessories. Now, this third-generation family-owned brand is a familiar sight on some of the world’s best beaches. ($360) larusmiani.com

Brunello Cucinelli EVENING WEAR

Brunello Cucinelli, the undisputed master of casual elegance, delivered the season’s best tuxedo: a relaxed midnight-blue corduroy riff on the classic, with a peak lapel which rolls elegantly toward its two-button closure. As a bonus, it was styled with a pleated blue dress shirt, with contrasting white collar and cuffs, with a bow tie in to match the lapels. With a slightly retro flair, the ensemble manages to be stand-out distinctive without screaming for attention. Stealth style, if you will, which really is what Mr. Cucinelli has always been about. ($4,995) brunellocucinelli.com

Turnbull & Asser SHIRT Optimo HATS You’ve earned your down time, so reward yourself accordingly. Storied British shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser certainly agrees: Many men are tempted by the thought of wearing a hat—who isn’t Why else would its new weekend collection seduced by a sharp fedora?—but are put off for fear of looking silly. include this deep indigo -and- Fortunately, Optimo hatmaker Graham Thompson specializes in con- cashmere number that washes down to an verting the apprehensive into bonafide hat wearers with his unrivaled exceptional softness? This clearly is a loafers personal service and impeccably made product. It was a breakout garment, to be worn while indulging in a long year for Thompson: He hosted numerous trunk shows across the lunch, a glass of wine never far from your country, exhibited at Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop on Lon- hand. For the details obsessed, it has a new, don’s Savile Row and opened an expansive new design and production more relaxed collar and an equally new cuff facility in a former firehouse on Chicago’s South Side. And while his (one button rather that T&A’s famous three) obsession with the right fit gets men into Optimo, it’s the quality (he but frankly, it’s the preposterous downy uses top-grade beaver ), sleek styling and construction that keeps softness that will get you every time you put them coming back. ($1,195, Hyde Park model) optimo.com HANNAH KHYMYCH, BY PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES BUMGARDNER; CUCINELLI: STYLING BY SCOTT, JOSHUA BY TURNBULL&ASSER: PHOTOGRAPHY OPTIMO, AND OPPOSITE: LARUSMIANI, THIS PAGE DIALLO GOULD; MAKE-UP: YACINE CAMPUZANO; OWEN GROOMING: LUIS EDITOR: MARKET @PARTSMODELS; NICK ROUNER ALEX BADIA; MODEL: STYLING BY it on. ($395) turnbullandasser.com

122 JUNE 2019 STYLE 124 JUNE 2019 STYLE with or without Connolly badges. ($1,355) connollyengland.com ($1,355) badges. Connolly orwithout with and Available features stylings. red, in accents on sports-car green based the or tan, bag comes Vaumolhigh-quality leather Rolls-Royce was onthose used as same (the interiors) for luggage, grip, it’s termed, as the time brand the first marks used example: aprime is has sports The exquisitemaking leather weekender you clothesThis and–as would expect–outstanding goods. and Ferrari. man’s the thinking Aston lives onas Martin it Now outfitter, ’s in based Mayfair, 1878,in was the exclusive it supplier of interior leather of Rolls-Royce for acentury, as well as one of is theConnolly world’s great treasure troves for superlative men, with Launched heritage. it’s cashmere, or , I wouldn’t call it it’s cashmere,woolorlinen, Iwouldn’tcallit sensuous, but it’s something close to that.” sensuous, butit’ssomething closetothat.” “I love Kiton sport coats. I’ve been wearing “I loveKitonsportcoats.I’vebeenwearing them for 15 years. They have a simple them for15years.Theyhaveasimple QUOTED: LUXURY IN OURFRIENDS HAVE SAY THEIR elegance, and the fabric, whether elegance, andthefabric,whether Connolly BAG Michael Mondavi

Winemaker

($665) ($665) any way which scarves you like ’em. Loronow all: thesoftest it Piana has like blend. So silk-and-cashmere this rich autumnal and bright hues colors, neutral classic colorpaletteits to changing. Forbe fall, deviated it from That designs. to appears accessories to ready comes it its to wear and played has pioneer safe it when for theItalian while, but nolittle dreamy inelegantsoft, fabrics shades thego-to source been has for super- There’s that noquestion SCARVES Loro Piana loropiana.com

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA SCOTT; STYLING BY CHARLES BUMGARDNER producing boots and footwear since 1866—but it’s thatproducing and footwear since1866—but boots works with everything from jeans to everything tailoredworks with trousers consistency of craft, quality and style thatconsistency of and style craft, make quality this handmakes leather Alder its fact, it’s been boots—in boot the season’s best. It is deceptively lightweight, deceptively Itis theseason’s lightweight, boot best. and therich patina thefinishing touch is of quality (there’s asuit), nothing with wrong boots with John Lobb hasn’t much changed intheway it craftsmanship. johnlobb.com ($1,980) John Lobb FOOTWEAR

Kris Van Assche Ahlem at SUNGLASSES DESIGNER DEBUT What makes a great pair of sunglasses? A perfect balance of form, proportion and functionality, plus a chunk of sleek style. Ahlem delivered that and more this year It’s like musical chairs at the top menswear with models like the Montorgueil. It’s founder Ahlem Manai-Platt’s uncompromising brands with designers jumping from house search for top-quality materials that defines the collection: she uses Mazzucchelli’s to house the past few seasons, but Kris Van cellulose acetate—that’s the Italian family which has been producing acetate since Assche, the newly installed artistic director at 1849—with Cridal lenses from French optical company Christian Dalloz. The two are Berluti, proved change can be a good thing. In put together by hand by her team in France. Are you ready to upgrade your shades? his first runway collection for the 125-year-old ($440) ahlemeyewear.com Parisian brand, Van Assche recognized its rich leather heritage with a distinctive line-up of leather jackets, blazers and long coats, each hand-cut and hand-dyed to perfection, like this patinaed number. A proven master in sharp sartorial suiting during his 11 years as Dior Homme’s artistic director, Van Assche’s tailoring has evolved with roomier suits and unexpected pops of bright colors. Given more freedom of expression at Berluti, the designer infused a new energy and excitement into the venerable house without straying too far from its artisanal roots. ($8,750) berluti.com

Globe-Trotter LUGGAGE

The 1970s, perhaps surprisingly, have been a significant influence on men’s style for several years now and it was that oft-maligned decade that inspired Globe- Trotter’s new St. Moritz collection. These navy cases have been given contrasting red handles and straps to bring out the sense of fun and excitement that accompanied the Seventies jet-set on their winter breaks to the Alps. That joie de vivre married to the label’s provenance–the brand launched in Germany in 1897 before ultimately settling in Britain and counts Kate Moss and HM the Queen as clients–results in the perfect combination of style and security. ($2,060, carry-on; extra- deep suitcase $2,525) globe-totter.com

Corneliani C OAT S

Corneliani’s style director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte is so wedded to the idea of the coat as the essential fall garment, he showed 30 variations at the house’s fall presentation in , from the peacoat to the parka, the military trench to the overcoat, available in a range of sumptuous materials

BERLUTI: FREDERIQUE DUMOULIN; AHLEM: PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA SCOTT, STYLING BY CHARLES BUMGARDNER; GLOBE-TROTTER: OLI SMITH CHARLES BUMGARDNER; GLOBE-TROTTER: STYLING BY SCOTT, JOSHUA BY FREDERIQUE DUMOULIN; AHLEM: PHOTOGRAPHY BERLUTI: DIALLO GOULD; MAKE-UP: YACINE CAMPUZANO; OWEN GROOMING: LUIS EDITOR: MARKET @PARTSMODELS; NICK ROUNER ALEX BADIA; MODEL: STYLING BY HANNAH KHYMYCH; BY PHOTOGRAPHY including cashmere and double-faced wool. “It’s the primary styling ele- ment of the season,” says Tramonte. One of the many that caught our eye, this bathrobe-like topper in a lightweight elegant wool is more than just a protective layer, it’s your sophisticated, stylish go-to garment for over suits, knitwear and jeans. ($2,200) corneliani.com

126 JUNE 2019 STYLE WINE ROBBREPORT.COM 127 Stella McCartney SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES QUOTED: OUR FRIENDS IN LUXURY HAVE THEIR SAY

“My Panama hat is more It’s hard not to love Stella McCartney’s new materials), she recently told Women’s Wear important to me than my Beatles-inspired men’s collection with play- Daily: “For viscose, for example, 150 million ful sweaters like the “All Together Now.” But trees a year are cut down in the name of passport. They are made for don’t let the clothes distract you from what . I’m probably the only brand in the me by a master weaver at makes this designer a pioneer: her dedica- world that’s sourced sustainable viscose Monticristi in Ecuador.” tion to sustainable practices. McCartney from renewable forests. That’s something I has been championing sustainability since had to do off my own back, it cost me money, Carlos Fuente, Jr. she started in the fashion industry, and this it cost me a lot of time, but you know what? I President, Tabacalera A. Fuente y Cia season she presented sweaters made of 100 mean it and I believe in it and it’s how I want percent reclaimed . One of the fash- to live my life. It’s the kind of footprint I want ion industry’s most credible advocates for to leave behind, as a businesswoman and change, she uses exclusively recycled vis- as a mother, on this planet.” Her passion is cose, and in her clothes undeniably inspiring, but she leads by exam- and accessories. Her main focus now is ple, and that’s what motivates others. ($755) transforming her supply chains (the raw stellamccartney.com

Cohérence TRENCH COAT

Remember the name Cohérence. It’s founder Kentaro Nakagomi’s romanticized vision of the overcoat for the sartorially minded man— think Humphrey Bogart’s signature raincoat in Casablanca—executed in exceptional fabrics with high-tech applications in Japan. Our pick for the season’s best trench is the brand’s Albert Camus. This belted cotton model is rich in volume and details—and a welcome NECKTIES alternative to today’s trim, minimalist raincoats. Can a man have too many ties? Stefano “The coats are updates of my Ricci says absolutely not. His unending favorite classics,” says Nakagomi, passion for the classic men’s accessory who in his research assembled (they were what he started his business an archive of vintage coats. with, more than 40 years ago) is unrivalled. Every new model is inspired and Ricci sketches the intricate patterns, named for legendary artists and inspired mainly by his native Florentine intellectuals, including Marcel architecture and culture, and sometimes Duchamp and Le Corbusier, which by one of his many African sojourns, on speaks to Nakagomi’s strong sense paper, before artisans screen print layers of classicism. He also designs the of color onto the substantial silk and they brand’s innovative new fabrics: are delicately hand-sewn. Now that the The Corb (named for Le Corbusier) suit is in high-demand once again, there’s has the lineage of a classic a good reason to add another tie to your coat but can come with a twist in collection. (shown, $260) stefanoricci.com CAMPUZANO LUIS EDITOR: MARKET @PARTSMODELS; NICK ROUNER ALEX BADIA; MODEL: STYLING BY HANNAH KHYMYCH, BY PHOTOGRAPHY MCCARTNEY: STELLA CHARLES BUMGARDNER STYLING BY SCOTT, JOSHUA BY RICCI AND COHÉRENCE: PHOTOGRAPHY STEFANO soft, lightweight . He’s committed to bringing back the classics but in a thoroughly modern way. ($1,860) available at thearmoury.com

128 JUNE 2019 STYLE WINE ROBBREPORT.COM 129 130 JUNE 2019 STYLE Sexton agiant is of global “A diminutive figure, menswear.” Langmead and contentdirector shares someinsider Jeremy Mr Porter’s brand knowledge.

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Paul Croughton

EDWARD SEXTON: DYLAN THOMAS; ABBEY ROAD LP: ALAMYBIANCA AND MICK JAGGER: EXPRESS/GETTY IMAGES; HARRY STYLES: MATTHEW EISMAN/FILMMAGIC/GETTYIMAGES