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Ethnopharmacological Study on Plants Used for Skincare and Beauty by Some Xhosa Communities

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Ethnopharmacological Study on Plants Used for Skincare and Beauty by Some Xhosa Communities Ethnopharmacological study on plants used for skincare and beauty by some Xhosa communities by VUYISILE SAMUEL THIBANE Submitted in fulfilment of the academic requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy In the Research Centre for Plant Growth and Development School of Life Sciences University of KwaZulu-Natal, Pietermaritzburg June 2018 STUDENT DECLARATION ______________________________________ Ethnopharmacological study on plants used for skincare and beauty by some Xhosa communities I, Vuyisile Samuel Thibane, student number: 215081677 declare that: i. The research reported in this dissertation, except where otherwise indicated, is the result of my own endeavours in the Research Centre for Plant Growth and Development, School of Life Sciences, University of KwaZulu-Natal Pietermaritzburg; ii. This thesis has not been submitted for any degrees or examination at any other University; iii. This thesis does not contain data, figures or writing, unless specifically acknowledged, copied from other researchers; and iv. Where I have produced publication of which I am an author or co-author, I have indicated which part of the publication was contributed by me. Signed at…………………………………on the………day of………………………..…2018. _____________________________________ VUYISILE SAMUEL THIBANE II DECLARATION BY SUPERVISORS ______________________________________ We hereby declare that we acted as supervisors of this PhD student: Student full name: Vuyisile Samuel Thibane Student number: 215081677 Thesis title: Ethnopharmacological studies of plants used for skincare and beauty by some Xhosa communities Regular consultation took place between the student and ourselves throughout the investigation. We advised the student to the best of our ability and approved the final document for submission to the College of Agriculture, Engineering and Science Higher Degrees Office for examination by the University appointed examiners. ________________________________ SUPERVISOR: PROFESSOR J VAN STADEN ________________________________ CO-SUPERVISOR: PROFESSOR JF FINNIE ________________________________ CO-SUPERVISOR: DR AR NDHLALA III COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, ENGINEERING AND SCIENCE DECLARATION 1 – PLAGIARISM __________________________________________ I, Vuyisile Samuel Thibane, student number: 215081677, declare that: The research reported in this thesis, except where otherwise indicated, is my original research. This thesis has not been submitted for any degree or examination at any other University. This thesis does not contain other persons’ data, pictures, graphs or other information, unless specifically acknowledged as being sourced from other persons. This thesis does not contain other persons' writing, unless specifically acknowledged as being sourced from other researchers. Where other written sources have been quoted, then: Their words have been re-written, but the general information attributed to them has been referenced. Where their exact words have been used, then their writing has been placed in italics and inside quotation marks, and referenced. This thesis does not contain text, graphics or tables copied and pasted from the internet, unless specifically acknowledged, and the source being detailed in the thesis and in the references sections. _______________________________________ VUYISILE SAMUEL THIBANE Declaration Plagiarism 22/05/08 FHDR Approved IV COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, ENGINEERING AND SCIENCE DECLARATION 2 – PUBLICATIONS __________________________________________ DETAILS OF CONTRIBUTION TO PUBLICATIONS that form part of and/or include research presented in this thesis (include publications in preparation, submitted, in press and published and give details of the contributions of each author to the experimental work and writing of each publication). Publication 1: Thibane, V.S., Ndhlala, A.R., Abdelgadir, A.H., Finnie, J.F., Van Staden, J., 2018. The cosmetic potential of plants from the Eastern Cape Province traditionally used for skincare and beauty. South African Journal of Botany. (In press) (DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sajb.2018.05.003). Contributions: Laboratory analysis and manuscript preparation were performed by the first author under the supervision of the four supervisors. Publication 2: Thibane, V.S., Ndhlala, A.R., Finnie, J.F., Van Staden, J., 2018. Modulation of the enzyme activity of secretory phospholipase A2, lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase involved in skin inflammation and disease by extracts from some medicinal plants used for skincare and beauty. South African Journal of Botany. (In press) (DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sajb.2018.06.001). Contributions: Laboratory analysis and manuscript preparation were performed by the first author under the supervision of the three supervisors. _______________________________________ Vuyisile Samuel Thibane Declaration Publications FHDR 22/05/08 Approved V CONFERENCE CONTRIBUTIONS __________________________________________ 1. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Plants as natural inhibitors of enzymes involved in skin inflammation. The 44th South African Association of Botanists (SAAB), Pretoria, South Africa, January 09 – 12 2018. 2. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Phytochemistry and cosmetic potential of plants traditionally used for skincare and beauty in South Africa. 65th Annual Meeting of the Society for Medicinal Plant and Natural Product Research, Basel, Switzerland, 03 – 07 September 2017. 3. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Exploring the cosmetic potential of leaves of Ubendlela (Plantago lanceolata L.). 20th Indigenous Plant Use Forum, Pretoria, Gauteng, South Africa, 9 – 12 July 2017. 4. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Phytochemistry and cosmetic potential of medicinal plants from the Eastern Cape Province. The 43rd South African Association of Botanists (SAAB), Cape Town, South Africa, January 09 – 11 2017. 5. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Anti- oxidant and photo-protective activity of medicinal plant oils and their incorporation in beauty formulations. 19th Indigenous Plant Use Forum (IPUF), Port St. Johns, South Africa, July 4 – 6 2016. VI 6. Thibane, V.S., Abdelgadir, H.A., Finnie, J.F., Ndhlala, A.R., Van Staden, J. Ethnobotanical survey of medicinal plants used for beauty and healthcare in Nkonkobe municipality, Eastern Cape. The 42nd South African Association of Botanists (SAAB), Bloemfontein, South Africa, January 11 – 13 2016. VII ABSTRACT __________________________________________ The paraphrase “beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder” by Plato, a Greek philosopher, has echoed through the fabrics of time and still echoes in our generation. The statement simply ought to refer to that the observer gets to decide what is “beautiful” in their eyes. The decision on what and who is beautiful is heavily influenced by one’s surroundings. In a digital-market environment the concept of beauty enhancement is paraded by bigger forces to drive their own agenda. The desire to enhance one’s facial appearance has significantly contributed to the observed growth of the beauty industry. The notable growth of the industry has in some cases resulted in unpleasant consequences due to the side effects of some of the products in the market. In this global-blooming industry products are traded and exchanged at a rapid rate. Introduction of safer natural beauty enhancement products are required for the South African market if we were to alleviate those with undesirable side effects and could combat some socio-economic challenges through job creation. The use of plants as the source of natural compounds has proven to be a reliable strategy in ethnopharmacological applications. The Eastern Cape Province has a rich plant biodiversity and the communities have immense indigenous knowledge (IK) on the use of these plants. There is a need to explore the pharmacological application of these plants by introducing beauty enhancement product formulations made from local resources. The project was aimed at documenting and conducting VIII ethnopharmacological evaluation of plants used for skincare and beauty for their potential in formulation of beauty enhancement products. An ethnobotanical survey was conducted to document plants that are used by communities in the Raymond Mhlaba municipality for skincare and beauty. Knowledge holders were identified by purpose sampling method and the interviews were conducted in isiXhosa using a structured questionnaire. Information on demographics, names of the plant, type of plant, plant part used, method of preparation and administration and frequency of use was collected and captured in the questionnaires. The Asphodelaceae and Asteraceae were the most represented families of the plants used for skincare and beauty. The communities used sustainable harvesting practices as the leaves were the most utilized plant parts. The most reported beauty enhancement uses were for achieving desired skin complexion and for skin smoothness, with both accounting up to 50% of the reported plant usages. Sixteen plants with the highest frequency index (FI) were selected from the ethnobotanical survey for ethnopharmacological studies related to beauty enhancement. This included Acokanthera oblongifolia (Hochst.) Codd, Aloe ferox Mill, Arctotis arctotoides (L.f) O.Hoffm, Bulbine frutescens (L.) Willd, Cassipourea flanaganii (Schinz) Alston, Chenopodium
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