Cool Summer Destinations arizonahighways.com AUGUST 2003 jeromejerome TourTour ItsIts FabledFabled AdobeAdobe MansionMansion HikeHike aa ShadyShady ForestForest TrailTrail prescottprescott GrandGrand CanyonCanyon DriveDrive anan EasyEasy NorthNorth RimRim ScenicScenic RouteRoute Baldy PLUS Matthews Baboquivari mystical6 Aztec mountains San Francisco Peaks Graham AUGUST 2003 page 50 55 GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP When you ask if it’s hot enough for our author, you’ll just make him hotter. 44 HUMOR 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL 46 DESTINATION Jerome Mansion The colorful and offbeat mining town of Jerome traces much of its flavor to James S. Douglas and family, whose home is preserved as a museum and state park. 3 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP Explore Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures. 54 EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Cowboy poets gather for a reading in Prescott, while rodeo cowboys brace for some riding, racing and roping in Payson; bat lovers go searching for the furry critters in Bisbee; and the Museum of Northern Arizona puts on a Zuni Indian marketplace in Flagstaff. 18 COVER/PORTFOLIO Six of Arizona’s 49 ALONG THE WAY Octogenerian Ernie Escapule, a mining and metals Mystical Mountains consultant who lives near Tombstone, creates useful Look up, look around, what do you see? devices — contraptions, some would say — from Arizona’s great mountain ranges, our defining oddball parts. horizons that contain our history, our lore — 50 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE and maybe treasure. Grand Canyon Drive It can be a “tiring” adventure, but a trip to North Timp ARCHAEOLOGY Point on the North Rim yields superlative views of the 6 Seashell Traders Grand Canyon and night skies. [THIS PAGE] Late afternoon light 56 HIKE OF THE MONTH of the Desert colors the Ajo Range at Organ A Mountain Forest Trail Pipe Cactus National Monument Ancient people brought their wares from in southern Arizona. Although tough and North Timp the Sea of Cortes to trade for goods in Arizona GEORGE H.H. HUEY steep, the rocky path up Point Matthews and beyond. [FRONT COVER] A shaft of sunlight Maverick Mountain Peak breaks through the shadows of south of Prescott leads Grand Canyon San Francisco the San Francisco Peaks’ Inner National Park Peaks Basin to fire the crest of a dense to a scenic ridge that’s JEROME HISTORY stand of golden aspens. See worth the effort. Maverick Mount story, page 18. LARRY ULRICH Mountain Baldy 16 [BACK COVER] Paloverde and Aztec Hotel Elegance, Peak mesquite trees, saguaro cacti, PHOENIX brittlebushes and buckhorn Mount Territorial-style Graham chollas contribute to a profusion TUCSON “C.P.” Sykes’ fashionable Hotel Santa Rita of desert plant life in Organ Pipe POINTS OF Baboquivari INTEREST Peak opened with a grand party in 1882, but the Cactus National Monument’s FEATURED IN TOMBSTONE Grass Canyon. GEORGE H.H. HUEY THIS ISSUE Calabasas railroad left him offtrack and out of business. (former site) and e-mail takingthe AUGUST 2003 VOL. 79, NO. 8 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Arizona oddities, attractions and pleasures Editor ROBERT J. EARLY Senior Editor BETH DEVENY off-ramp Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor MARY PRATT Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL Unnoticed Rock Climbers state. What did I get? Ten pages of baseball! What Ellsworth was joined by his THIS MONTH IN Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER The photo on the inside back cover (“Hike of the a disappointment. Shame on you. I know you can Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK younger brother Emery. In Mineral-rich Month,” March ’03) shows a stunted pine on top of do better than that. their first studio, a cave with ARIZONA Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS Arizona a freestanding sandstone block below Sterling Pass EILEEN NAZAR, San Luis Obispo, CA Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY a blanket over the entrance, Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP in Oak Creek Canyon. I also see two rock climbers The last time we wrote a story about spring training they processed pictures of veryone knows that Arizona leads Art Assistant PAULY HELLER U.S. census at the top of the page. Am I right? baseball was in 1992. Judging by the reaction, it Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY people astride the Grand the country in copper production, 1860 NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY CLINE LIBRARY/KOLB BROTHERS STUDIO E reports TOM FAIRES, Scottsdale may be more than 10 years before we do the next Arizona Highways Books Canyon mules as they but few realize that the state also leads Arizona’s one, if ever. WitWorks® Books maneuvered their way along the the nation in molybdenum output. population as Editor BOB ALBANO 6,482. Did you realize the climbers were up there? Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL The Kolbs’ Canyon Bright Angel Trail. This unusual mineral looks similar to Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON CHERYL PLANTZ, Woodland Hills, CA Baseball in Surprise mery and Ellsworth Kolb’s In 1912, the brothers became graphite, but is a bluer grey. When Production Director CINDY MACKEY I have had a second home in Arizona since the Grand Canyon photographs the first to use a movie camera used as an alloy, it gives steel its Fort Crittenden, Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER JEFFREY A. SCOVIL 1867 The caption says nothing about mountain climbers. early 1970s and eagerly await spring-training Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON in the August 1914 National to document riding the rapids on hardness and durability. between the Webmaster E Sonoita and JOE BOLTON, Grand Cane, LA games. After scanning the March 2003 cover of VICKY SNOW Arizona also ranks second in Geographic were among its earliest the Colorado River. Emery Patagonia There are two rock climbers, and we did not notice Arizona Highways, my eye first caught the words, Marketing Director published Canyon pictures. They presented their river movie in the nation in production of settlements, is PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO them, so there is no mention of them in the “Spring Baseball’s Back.” As usual, the article was hauled water for 7 miles to develop the studio’s small auditorium gemstones; third in perlite; established by Circulation Director LEE FRANKLIN the U.S. Army to caption. Not only does the poor old editor need very interesting on the 10 major league teams their photographs in an abandoned from 1915 until his death in fourth in construction sand protect settlers better glasses, but the whole staff does as well. training in the Grand Canyon State. Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE mine shaft. For almost a century, 1976 at the age of 95. and gravel, silver and from the Indians. I know they are the “new kids on the block,” Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT their 23-room studio has clung to Today the Grand Canyon zeolites; fifth in pumice; and Butterfly Myths but I’m disappointed you didn’t mention my Information Technology Manager the South Rim. The studio, five National Parks Foundation sixth in iron oxide pigments. I was delighted to have an opportunity to read Kansas City Royals (and Mike Sweeney) and the CINDY BORMANIS stories high, is on the National operates a bookstore in the Gemstones are created from Ten settlers “Butterfly Silent, Butterfly Beautiful” and “From Texas Rangers in their fine new training facility in FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES blue azurite and green 1870 Register of Historic Places. Kolb Studio, and all gallery near Tucson OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: malachite. LES AND PAULA Maiden to Butterfly, in Search of Love,” (March Surprise. Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 Shortly after arriving at the proceeds go directly to studio are killed by PRESMYK COLLECTION Indians in 11 ’03) to my 5-year-old granddaughter. She loved MAURICE WALKER, Overland Park, KS In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., Grand Canyon in the early 1900s, restoration costs. Call (602) 712-2000 days. them both, so I had to read them again. Thank Or visit us online at: you for including these wonderful Indian myths in I was shocked and disappointed to see that you arizonahighways.com your beautiful magazine. completely ignored the magnificent new Surprise For Corporate or Trade Sales The Law and Call (602) 712-2050 1873 HERB NACHMAN, Townsend, TN Recreation Campus as well as the Kansas City Effie’s Gardens Order Society of E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: Tucson lynches Royals and Texas Rangers who make it their spring [email protected] n a corner of Heritage four murderers Spring Baseball training home. Not a single word. Shame. Regular Mail: Square in downtown from gallows in Court Plaza on Your magazine has done so much for me, showing DICK WELSH, Surprise Editor Flagstaff lies a very magical 2039 W. Lewis Ave. I Pennington and introducing the sights and beauty of this great The baseball story was based on games played in Phoenix, AZ 85009 place. There, in a lush lakeside Street. state. I am a Michigan transplant, and when I 2002, a year before the Surprise park opened. wood of vibrant acrylic color, Governor Janet Napolitano opened the March 2003 issue and saw that you Director, Department of Transportation curious creatures with large WASTED 10 pages to show baseball, it really ticked Humor Section Victor M. Mendez eyes and round faces peer from 1877John Dunn, a me off. Don’t we get enough of the “sports” (i.e., I can keep quiet no longer. The “Humor” section of ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD silent breakfast tables. They government Chairman Ingo Radicke, Globe scout, finds the business) on TV, cable and in the paper? I am so your magazine has long been suffering. The stories Vice Chairman Bill Jeffers, Holbrook dip coffeepots into serene first copper ore ticked, I am considering canceling. that are printed are horrible, and actually paying Members Dallas “Rusty” Gant, Wickenburg pools and glance through worn in the Bisbee Richard “Dick” Hileman, Lake Havasu City JOE SORREN area.