Swim-Bladder Disease
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Chilodonella Chilodonella is caused by protozoa, a type of parasite, and can be a serious treat to the health of any fish. The disease can be hard to diagnose but is easy to treat if it is discovered before permanent damage has been done to the fish. Chilodonella has like all other parasites to be introduced to your aquarium to be able to infect your fish and preventing the introduction of Chilodonella and other parasites to their aquarium should be a priority for all aquarists. Parasites are usually introduced in one of two ways: with new fish/plants or with live food. You can reduce the risk of introducing parasites and diseases to your aquarium by placing all new fish in a quarantine tank for 2-3 weeks before moving them into you main tank. You can avoid introducing parasites with live food by only feeding live food you cultivated yourself or reduce the risk by not feeding live food caught in waters with fish in them. Symptoms The symptoms of Chilodonella includes changed (heavy) breathing, excessive secretion of mucus that makes the skin of the fish look cloudy, clamped fins, loss of appetite and scratching againstaquarium decoration. You can also observe a general loss of virility in infected fish causing them to act more lethargically. In severe cases the fish moves away from the rest of the fish and hides somewhere. It should however be said that a fish can seem healthy long after being infected by Chilodonella and the disease can often already have caused serious damage to the fish when the symptoms start to appear. Chilodonella tolerates a wider variety of different water temperatures than many other parasites and ore often found in colder waters. Treatment The disease is as I said earlier easy to treat once diagnosed and can be cured with a wide variety of treatments ranging from commercial Chilodonella medicine to treating the water with (or bathing the fish in) potassium permanganate, formalin, malachite, copper or salt. It should be said that some fish and other aquarium animals are sensitive to salt and/or copper and those methods should not be used if you keep such fish. Research your fish to find out if it is sensitive to salt or copper. Examples of salt sensitive fish are certain catfish species and freshwater rays. Anchor Worm (Lernaea) Anchor worms are parasites that infect fish and one of the main problems with them is that they increase the risk of attracting other diseases. The anchor worms can cause serious damage to a fish and can eventual kill the fish themselves, but anchor worms are only seldom the cause of death in fish with anchor worm since the damage weakens the fish and opens it up for other diseases that end up killing the fish. Symptoms Anchor worms are in fact small crustaceans. These crustaceans start out their life as free swimming and find a fish to burrow their way into. They burrow themselves too far into the fish to allow for safe removal. When they have buried themselves into the fish they move themselves into the muscles where they live for several months while developing. They then make their way out of the fish, a process that often leaves ugly wounds, and releases their eggs before dying. The circle will then start over again. The wound caused by the crustaceans often gets infected which is one of the main reason this disease can invite so many other diseases to infect the sick fish. The long time the crustaceans spend in the fish also makes it hard to know where this disease was introduced from and if it has been cured. The symptoms of anchor worms include the fish scratching themselves against everything in the tank and white green threads hanging out with inflamed centres on the body of the fish. Treatmant Anchor worms can be treated with potassium permanganate in the community tank (will color the water) or by bathing sick fish in a potassium permanganate solution (10mg per litre) for 20-30 min. Treating the entirecommunity/holding aquarium will as I said color the water and be a little messy but it is still a god idea since it guarantees that no other fish are infected and that the disease doesn't return in a few months by emerging from a fish that is currently showing no signs of infection. If you decide to treat your entire tank you should add 2 mg potassium permanganate to every litre of aquarium water in your tank Bacterial Parasitic Protozoan Red Pest Argulus Velvet or Rust Mouth Fungus Anchor Worm Marine Velvet Tuberculosis Black Spot - Black Costia Dropsy Ick Hexamita Scale Protrusion Ergasilus Ich - White Spot Tail Rot & Fin Rot Flukes Marine Ich Fish Vibriosis Nematoda Neon Tetra Disease Leeches Glugea and Fungal Uronema marinum Henneguya Fungus Chilodonella Ichthyosporidium African Bloat 'Malawi Bloat' Non-infectious Viral Miscellaneous Tumors Lymphocystis Head and Lateral Line Congenital Erosion Abnormalities 'Hole-in-the-head' Injuries Disease Constipation Eye Problems Swim-bladder Disease Dropsy Dropsy is a somewhat mysterious disease that is fatal and that can be hard to cure. The disease is caused by bacteria and (almost?) only attacks weakened fish. There are many reasons that can cause a fish to become weakened and most are within your control as an aquarist. The reasons include poor living conditions, incorrect living conditions, improper diet and incorrect company in the tank. By keeping your aquarium clean and well kept you can eliminate the risk of dropsy due to poor living conditions. By researching the requirements of your fish and setting up the aquarium accordingly you can eliminate the risk for dropsy due to incorrect living conditions. By feeding a varied diet suitable for your fish you can eliminate the risk for dropsy due to poor nutrition and by only keeping fish with similar needs and temperament together you can eliminate the risk of dropsy due to incorrect company. This does of course not eradicate the risk of dropsy completely, but it does significantly reduce the risk of dropsy. Symptoms Dropsy is as earlier mentioned a bacterial disease, it attacks the kidneys on weakened fish and cause renal failure or/and fluid accumulation. It is the fluid accumulation that causes the visible symptoms of this disease; bloated body and protruding scales. It can as I said be hard to treat bloat and many infected fish dies which makes dropsy a dreaded disease. Treatment There are medicines against dropsy that you add to the water of your tank but those are seldom very effective and it is, as this is an internal disease, better to give the fish medicated food. Make a 1% mixture of an antibiotic such as chloromycetin (chloramphenicol) or tetracycline and fishfood. Based on weight, 1% equals to add 100 mg antibiotics to 10g fish food, or 25g fish food with a standard 250mg tablet antibiotics. It can be good starve the fish before feeding them medicated food to make sure that they eat properly. Argulus Argulus or fish lice as they are commonly called are a very major threat to your fish’s health. They can cause significant morbidity and mortality when heavily infesting your fish and they have been known to be the vehicle for other fish diseases. Argulus are a crustacean parasite in the subphylum Crustacea, which groups them together with prawns, shrimp, water fleas and others. The animals that are in the Crustacea group have semi-rigid to rigid chitin exoskeleton. The chitin exoskeleton will molt, or shed, as they get larger. Argulus are in the Branchiura class, which is group of Crustaceans that all have similar features. All of the Branchiura are fish parasites. Argulus have a direct life cycle using only the fish as hosts. They prey upon freshwater fish and marine fish. Argulus can spend a large amount of time swimming around and mating occurs when the male and female Argulus are swimming. The eggs clusters are dropped on any convenient submerged item. After hatching the Argulus makes several metamorphic changes as it goes towards adulthood. The whole cycle takes between 30-100 days depending on the temperature. After hatching they must find a host within a around 4 days or they will not survive. Argulus are one of the biggest parasites and are seen with the naked eye. They range in size from 5 to 10 mm in length. While they are easy to spot if you know what you are looking for, they are quite easy to miss when doing a skin scrape. You may see small dark spots on your fish and not realize that they are Argulus until they move. You can usually find them located behind the fins or around the head, in sheltered locations. You can spot them easier on the fins than on other parts of the body because they show up better against the transparent background. The fish lice are oval in shape and flat. They can move quickly and you can sometimes spot them in the tank when they move from one host to another. If you try to net your fish, they will abandon the host and move into the free water. Symptoms Affected fish have patches of hemorrhagic and edematous affected skin, gills or fins. The parasite causes these injuries by attaching to the fish with its curved hooks and sucker. Its feeding apparatus further injures the host fish when it inserts the stylet into the epidermis and underlying host tissue causing hemorrhage. Argulus feed on the host’s blood and body fluids. The feeding apparatus also releases digestive enzymes which can cause systemic illness .