IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 1

M3A3 Bradley CFV by Eric Christianson, IPMS # 42218

Scale: 1/35 Company: Orochi Price: $64.99 Product/Stock #: IM002 Product provided by: Stevens International and Internet Modeler

Summary In a market flooded with M2/M3 Bradley vehicles, new player Orochi, out of China, seems to have scored an ace with their new M3A3 Bradley. The kit sports many of the features of the higher-end The contents of this box include: manufacturers, but offers it at 6 sprues of soft, tan-yellow plastic, individually wrapped. a much lower price – Some minor flash in places. representing one of the best Separate upper and lower hulls, individually wrapped values on the market. 20 sprues of individual-link track made of hard black plastic 2 sprues of clear plastic parts 1 sprue of poly-caps allowing removal of the wheels for painting and weathering 1 small sheet of photo-etch containing grill covers and other detail 1 small brass painting template for wheels and tread1 small sheet of decals 1 poly-urethane flap that fits over the base of the gun 13 page booklet of cad-illustrated instructions with 31 steps, printed in black and white ink.

The biggest surprise is the such as this and value-pricing track – Orochi has found a way will motivate more modelers to to provide truly snap-together try building armor. individual-link track that stays together. The track is not some Background unusual variety that lends itself The M3 Bradley Cavalry easier to assemble this way, Fighting Vehicle (CFV) is an but standard, run-of-the-mill American tracked armored U.S.A. AFV track. Innovations reconnaissance vehicle IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 2

manufactured by BAE Systems Land and Armaments (formerly ) based on the family. The M3 CFV is used by heavy armored cavalry units in the U.S. Army. The M3 Bradley CFV is very similar to the IFV (Infantry Fighting Vehicle) and is fielded with the same powerful two-man 25mm Bushmaster Cannon turret with the coaxial 7.62mm machine gun. It only varies from the M2 in a few subtle ways and by role. The M3 is classified as an armored reconnaissance and scout vehicle and does away with the firing ports found in the M2 series. The M3 also carries more TOW missiles as well as more ammunition for its 25mm and 7.62mm guns.

The Bradley family as a whole was originally intended to support the M113 Armored Personnel Carrier (APC), but ended up replacing it altogether. Today, the Bradley is fielded in conjunction with the series of main battle tanks and often accompanies infantry squads into combat. In the 1991 Persian , Bradley’s and their powerful 25mm cannon / TOW anti-tank missile combination destroyed more enemy tanks than the M1 Abrams. Only three Bradley’s were lost to enemy fire, however, at least 17 were lost to friendly fire. Improvements to the Bradley family have IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 3

included enhanced identification features, as well as anti-tank missile countermeasures (for first generation wire-guided missiles only) and improved armor protection in the form of ERA.

The decals are very thin but in perfect register. There are no color schemes provided other than what is printed on the side of the box. Paint callouts for Tamiya Acrylic/Lacquers are included in the instructions.

The benefit of having very few track of where things go as The large storage basket at the pour-tabs and knock off pins on access to some of the areas is back of the turret needs the sprues is slightly off-set by difficult in the later stages of something, so I went to my some pretty thick sprue- the build. stash of Value Gear products connection points in places. for things that would fit in Orochi includes a ‘Read Before there. Likewise for the antenna Things to consider Assembly’ page in the – there are none included in before starting instructions. On this page the kit. I used the excellent Orochi thoughtfully provides you are shown where to place products put out by Orange the rubber portion of the 22 bolts/rivets that you remove Hobby for those. wheels as separate parts to from Sprue A. They are small help with painting and and require a deft touch to The Instructions finishing. If you choose to shave off the sprue and place The instructions are excellent paint them separately, on the surface of the upper hull and show a lot of care has however, you will need to and rear hatch. been taken by this new completely assemble, paint and company to get things right. I There are many places in the mask off the lower hull before only found one oddity: there is build where the receiving continuing on with the upper no three view drawing or color ‘female’ divots that are hull, because once the upper schemes provided - several supposed to receive the ‘male’ hull is in place you will not have times I had to resort to the posts on parts, and are not access to wheels and/or the internet to find where and how deep enough for the task, track. I did not paint them parts should be placed. leaving many parts standing separately in this build. proud of the surface. I suggest Decal placement is identified in that you drill out the divots the instructions throughout the whenever you encounter this build – I suggest you keep before applying glue. IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 4

Construction worth, and having removable last link together while the run wheels is of little value once was on the model. I managed Lower Hull and suspension the upper hull is attached to get the first side done, but anyway. for the second side I decided to The build begins with the lower scrape off the tiny pins and hull and suspension, and this is The fit of the tires over the glue the last link in place. where you encounter your first wheels, on the other hand, is (and just about only) significant excellent and does not even While this track is amazing, it issue. The small, nylon poly require glue. will come apart if enough caps inserted inside the wheels torque or pressure is applied, in Step 2 end up causing fit The Track so I recommend hitting the problems in Step 4. They are runs with a little Tamiya Liquid used ostensibly to allow the The track is assembled and attached in Step 5. The two cement once you have the wheels to be removable, but do track in place on the model. not exactly fit the posts the runs of track in this kit are made of black, individual-link The instructions call for 79 links wheels are inserted on. They per side which is spot on, with fit, but something is preventing plastic parts that ‘chunk’ together, and hold remarkably 10 links left over. Great job them from easily slipping on Orochi! – most likely the poly caps are well after connected. Take a too small for the cavity they sit link in your left hand and one in your right hand, slip the right Before moving on, I sprayed in and can end up just off the lower hull and track with a center when you sandwich hand link into the top of the left hand one and push the bottoms layer of pre-shade black, them between the two wheel followed by an initial halves. Whatever the case, the together until you feel (and hear) a solid ‘chunk’. Do that camouflage coat of Buff on the posts, as designed, are not wheels (see painting notes, strong enough to withstand 78 more times and you have a complete run. I had both runs below for specific brands). wear and tear – they will easily Once the upper hull is seated bend and even break before done in about 20 minutes. What’s more, careful removal you will have very limited you manage to get the wheel access to this area. on. What’s more, the poly caps of the links from the sprue inside the drive sprockets don’t even eliminates the need for engage the posts at all. clean-up, although purists might differ. In truth, the sprue I suggest that you leave the separation points are hidden on poly caps out; they create the completed track. The more trouble than they are toughest part was getting that IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 5

Upper Hull, Rear and have been easier to place. The Turret only overhead illustration Main Deck The fit and finish of nearly included (for the rivet In Steps 11 and 12, the everything on and around the placement) curiously lacks any placement of several parts (C1, turret was superb. Many of the this detail? C21) would have benefitted smaller parts and assemblies from a three-view image of the looked complicated but ended If the little 4-part assembly at vehicle. In Step 14, the three up coming together perfectly the top of Step 11 has you prominent armor sections that – even the weird rubbery flap confused, you’re not alone. I adorn the front of the vehicle that covers the base of the placed Part C36 where I sit on a set of 12 vertically- main weapon. Normal hobby thought it should go, and arranged spacers and rely on cement worked perfectly to discarded Part C7. If you can numerous tiny bumps to line up secure it in place. make these parts fit where they – a task beyond my modeling are supposed to go on the hull, skills. If I had a good overhead good for you! shot of this area these would IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 6

I painted the frame of the spares box for period- Primer and Pre-Shade sectional shield around the appropriate baggage to fill up I started by airbrushing a commanders hatch without the the void, including, primer/pre-shade coat of glass in place. After dipping the conveniently, the big blank spot Gunze Mr. Finisher 1500 Black glass in Alclad (See Painting where the (torn and destroyed) to give the plastic and PE some section, below), I inserted it decal would normally go. If you grip for the following coats, and into the shield but waited to decide to leave the storage to fill in the recesses and create attach the assembly until the area empty, note that several a shadow effect near the flat very end of the build so the prominent and visible ejection surface edges, adding depth for clear parts would not be pin holes on the inside of the the subsequent coats to come. affected by airbrushing. bustle will need to be filled. I really like Gunze’s new product – it goes on beautifully In Step 21, the placement of Painting and Finish and it combines what used to Part C44 as shown will impede I finished the M3A3 in a basic, be two coats of paint applied in the fit of the turret onto the one-color desert camouflage two painting sessions all into turret ring of the main hull, so I scheme, preferring to highlight one. I allowed that to sit left it off. and accent the monochrome overnight to de-gas. finish using filters and washes. Orochi did not provide any The kit can be completely Airbrushing Vallejo Model Color content for the turret bustle on assembled before painting, Paints with a (syphon-feed) the Bradley, so I went to my save the antenna and armored Pasche H Airbrush glass sectional. IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 7

I used with Vallejo Model Color paints in my continuing transformation over to true acrylics. I went through a bit of experimentation up front, but eventually found them to spray beautifully once I dialed in the right setup and thinning ratio. First, I dialed the pressure up to 20-25lbs (Vallejo recommends 12-15lbs). I think the higher pressure is needed because I use a siphon-style airbrush (Pasche H) as opposed to a gravity-feed airbrush. Once I did that, the spray pattern evened out and I lost the scatter-shot look of the paint on the surface. On the flip side, Vallejo ivory-white, depending on paints are odor-free and allow where I thought the sun would Next, regardless of what line of me swap my heavy, hit, achieving sort of a forced- paint used (Model Air, Model uncomfortable vapor mask I color perspective. Color, or Panzer Color), I found use with distillate-based paints that adding a single drop of for a simple painters Filters Liquitex Flow Aid and a hefty (particulate) mask. I applied an overall filter of Mig squirt of Vallejo Air brush Wash Brown while the surfaces Thinner to each cup worked Camouflage were still flat, and used AK well and (almost) never I followed the pre-shade coat Interactive Track Wash on the clogged. A Q-tip wetted with with Vallejo’s Model Color track and a Mig 110 Black filter Vallejo thinner was kept nearby 70976 Buff, and then laid down on the fenders, extra track during my painting sessions for a light coat of Model Air 71.075 links and the engine grills. I knocking off the tiny ‘paint Sand on the upper surfaces. went back and added a second clod’ that would form on the What starts out looking yellow- and third filter coat to specific nozzle tip when minor clogging green ends up as a nice pale areas to break up the did occur. yellow. I worked each color monochrome surfaces. I thin all from the center of the panels of my washes and filters using Also – cleaning the airbrush outward to preserve some of Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner, became a must-do chore each color showing through which will not affect underlying afterwards, which is a break from underneath. Some parts layers of paint. from using other paints when I I left the original darker yellow just blew some thinner through and some parts were nearly the brush and put it away. IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 8

Decals the paint callouts and decal concentrating on the panel placement throughout the lines, recesses, buckles, on- Once dry, I airbrushed a coat of instructions instead of in a board tools, etc. Future over the entire vehicle single section. The placement to set it up for decals. I applied of the large unit number on On-Board Tools the decals using the Red and the starboard side of the turret Blue Micro Sol/Set system (Note: For hand-brushing is not shown, so I put it where without any problems, followed Vallejo paints, I put a drop of it could fit. by an additional layer of Future Vallejo Slow Dry and a drop to seal them. water onto an old CD and then Pin Wash single drop of all the colors I The decals were perfectly I applied a pin wash of Mig need. I mix the colors with the registered but very, very thin Dark Wash (aka Raw Umber) water and slow dry until the and thus prone to tearing straight from the bottle using a paint flows smoothly off a red easily. Orochi chose to show small red sable brush, sable brush.) IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 9

I painted the wooden portions dampened with Mona Lisa Paint protruding parts, and then hit it of the tools with a mixture of Thinner, leaving the areas near with all the washes and filters Vallejo Panzer Aces New Wood the latches and metal parts as I went along. I think this (311), Old Wood (310) and darker than the center of the gives it a convincing look in the (Model Color) German Cam wooden shafts. I painted all the end. I painted the lights Tamiya Medium Brown (70822). To steel parts Vallejo Oily Steel. I X7 Red and Tamiya Chrome give the wooden parts of the then let a little Mig 110 Black Silver, and added a drop of tools more depth, I brushed on wash puddle up on the Future when they were dry to a little Mig Wash Brown oil horizontal surfaces of the metal suggest glass covers. I painted paint straight from the tube axe and shovel heads. When the backpacks and tarps and let that set overnight. dry, I think this gives them a (Vallejo Model Color) Buff and Don’t let this paint leach out its convincing look of used steel. Canvas, liberally adding filters oil beforehand, like you would and washes using Mig Wash when you are using oils for Other details Brown and Mig Dark Wash. dry-brushing. The oil helps it I left the main barrel black stay workable. In the morning I from the pre-shade step, went Armored Glass carefully removed most of the over it with a silver quilter’s The M3A3 Bradley has a four- oil paint using a brush pencil to highlight the piece section surrounding the IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 10

commander’s hatch that sports Road Dust and Final Assembly improve flow. Once everything armored glass. Before adding was dry I dusted some Mig Finally, I applied a ‘road- the glass sections, I dipped Russian Earth and Black dusting’ coat consisting of them in un-diluted Alclad pigments on the sides of the Vallejo Model Air Sand (Ivory) Armored Glass Lacquer, and let armor here and there, as well (71.075), followed by a coat of the paint wick off and dry as the track to rough the visible Vallejo Flat Varnish to kill any before attaching them. I surfaces up a little. shiny spots still remaining. I weathered this section cut each of these 50/50 with I attached the antenna and the separately and attached it at Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and a armored glass sectional and the very end of the build. drop of Liquitex Flow Aid to this busy little guy was done! IPMS Seattle Chapter Website Page 11

Conclusion The track is magnificent. recommend this kit to all levels The M3A3 Bradley was a lot of Purists might find inaccuracies of model builders. If you go fun to build, and for the price, and opt for after-market slow and follow the suggestions which I have seen heavily replacements, but once all the above, you should be able to discounted, an unbelievable paint and pigment is applied, have a lot of fun building kit. value. I think Orochi did an who’s to know? The easy snap- excellent job of translating the assembly of the links will I would like to thank Orochi busy look of a modern U.S. AFV attract new armor modelers to Models and Stevens into this scale representation. A the fold, and there’s nothing International for providing this perfect kit would have included wrong with that. kit for review, and to Internet stowage gear for the turret Modeler for giving me the bustle and a three-view There are design issues with opportunity to build it. drawing but that kit might have some of the assemblies, and cost more as well. I think what the instructions could use some you get in the box is a good rework with better angles in compromise, and a great value. the drawings. That said, I can