VOLUME 7 NO. 15 SEPTEMBER 4 – SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: @STRIPES.COM STRIPESJAPAN.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE INSIDE INFO Mental Notes with Hilary Valdez

INNER MANAGEMENT PAGE 3

7 secrets about Daiso,

YUGAWARA BEACH Japan’s fun and quirky A GREAT PLACE TO HANG 10 Photos courtesy of Live Japan PAGE 7 100-yen shop! Pages 8-9

JAPAN TAKES BAKED GOODS ANOTHER LEVEL PAGE 10

GEISHA STRUGGLE TO PROTECT TRADITIONS AMID COVID-19 PAGE 16 Iwakuni family barred from bases after travel incident

BY JOSEPH DITZLER, orders in place from U.S. Forces Japan and LIKE US ON STARS AND STRIPES MCAS Iwakuni to control the virus’ spread. FACEBOOK Published: August 28, 2020 The family violated Japan’s Japan at the time was experiencing the onset of a second wave of coronavirus cases. TOKYO — An American family that drew Quarantine Act, along with Friday’s release came with an apology: rebuke from Japan’s defense minister after orders in place from “The air station expresses sincere regret skirting coronavirus restrictions in July has U.S. Forces Japan. to our Japanese neighbors for any anxiety been barred from Marine Corps Air Station caused by this incident and we will continue Iwakuni, and all U.S. military installations, to strictly enforce appropriate COVID-19 for 10 years, according to Marine statements. risk mitigation measures.” The family of four arrived July 12 at Hane- COVID-19 is the respiratory disease da International Airport in central Tokyo by Japanese authorities at Haneda later caused by the coronavirus. and the following day boarded a commercial showed three of the family members were The family left Iwakuni on Aug. 25 for flight for Kintaikyo Airport, which shares a infected with the coronavirus. the U.S., according to an email from 1st Lt. runway with MCAS Iwakuni, according to a According to the Marines, the family vio- FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC news release by the air station Friday. Tests lated Japan’s Quarantine Act, along with SEE TRAVEL ON PAGE 2 2 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 TRAVEL: Family gave false information

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1

Phillip Parker, a spokesman for Max D. Lederer Jr. MCAS Iwakuni, to Stars and Publisher Stripes. Parker said a family Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic member employed by the De- Commander fense Department has resigned Joshua M Lashbrook Chief of Staff that position; Parker declined to Chris Verigan identify the organization. Engagement Director Earlier reports about the inci- Marie Woods dent indicated a family of three; Publishing and Media Design Director however, only three of the four Chris Carlson Publishing and Media Design Manager family members tested positive The family’s ban, Eric Lee for coronavirus, according to the Advertising and Circulation Manager release. or “debarment,” Monte Dauphin Defense Minister Taro Kono Japan Area Manager singled out the family at a news followed a misconduct Kentaro Shimura Production Manager conference July 15 and called on hearing Aug. 7, one Rie Miyoshi the U.S. to tighten up its corona- Engagement Manager virus testing and isolation proce- day after the four were Denisse Rauda dures. Publishing and Media Design Editor medically cleared. Publishing and Media Design Writers Kono said the family gave ChiHon Kim false information about its trav- Shoji Kudaka Takahiro Takiguchi el plans. He also cited the U.S. Layout Designers practice, afterwards curtailed, Mamoru Inoue of housing military personnel Yukiyo Oda Yuko Okazaki newly arrived on Okinawa in an A flight takes off from Haneda International Airport in central Tokyo, March 18. Photo by Akifumi Ishikawa, Stars and Stripes Kayoko Shimoda off-base hotel during their 14- Multimedia Consultants day mandated quarantine. family members, to test free of indicated the family arrived at entering quarantine, according Max Genao Doug Johnson Brian Jones Jason Lee At the time, U.S. personnel ar- the virus before exiting quaran- Haneda via a commercial flight to the Marines. Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi riving at air bases in Japan were tine. from the . From Contact tracing found no con- Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman subject to quarantine but were The family’s ban, or “debar- Haneda, Japanese authorities tacts linked to the family on the Graphic Designers Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji not tested unless ment,” followed cleared them to travel directly to air station; of six traced off the Sales Support they experienced EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: a misconduct their quarantine site, but not on station, none apparently con- Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa symptoms. hearing Aug. 7, public transportation. The next Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro tracted the virus, according to Yusuke Sato Saori Tamanaha Not long after one day after the day they took the commercial the Marines. Toshie Yoshimizu Un Chong Yu Kono’s statement, four were medi- flight to Iwakuni. “While deeply regrettable, USFJ ordered cally cleared. At the air station, they did this incident caused no addi- For feedback and inquiries, anyone affiliated with the U.S. They spent 24 days of isolation not immediately enter quaran- tional cases of COVID-19 within contact [email protected] military, including service mem- in their base home, according to tine, a violation of USFJ and Japan,” the statement said. To place an ad, call DSN 227-7370 bers, Defense Department civil- the statement. base orders. The three learned stripesjapan.com/contact [email protected] ian employees, contractors and The Marine statement their positive test results after Twitter: @JosephDitzler SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 3

Mental Notes with Hilary Valdez Inner management

BY HILARY VALDEZ, STRIPES JAPAN

hinking is natural. We all have a conscious mind from the second we are born. However, improving positive T thinking involves becoming more self-aware and using positive affirmations help to replace less positive thinking. Understanding your thinking process, then gaining and predicting what you need in the future, is important. And in this global world where everything is interdependent and in- terconnected, the need to understand and how to react is key. In 1967, Marshall McLuhan wrote: “The Medium is the Massage.” He described a future where our senses would be massaged by technology and how it would become integrated into our daily lives. However, this environment seems to drag us down with daily negativity which is perpetuated by our own negative thoughts. As humans we routinely use judgment in determining what to accept and what to reject. Two thinking routines to ponder. “See-Think-Wonder” and “What do you see?” To start, name the qualities of the image you see. What do you think? What does the image make you think about? And, what do you won- der? What questions do you have about the image? According to Dr. Linda Elder, educational psychologist, all reasoning has a purpose, so state your purpose clearly. Exam- ine your assumptions, identify your point of view, verify your information, then look at the implications and consequences of your reasoning. Our everyday thinking patterns determine our abilities, tal- ents and personal attributes. To function efficiently in today’s world, we need to determine between what works for us and what works against us. This is where self-awareness comes into play: Don’t worry so much. Don’t procrastinate. Have a schedule with deadlines. Set goals. Start early. Listen actively and ask questions. If your thoughts are calm, you are calm, and so is your mind. You are what you think you are. Don’t be smothered by global events. Here’s the hard part, a convergent thinker sees limited options. A divergent thinker constantly explores options. We need insightful, problem-solving thinking skills. But when we are emotionally fired up, those grumbling thoughts stay with us for a while. Watch people when you’re walking out in town, you’ll no- tice people talking to themselves, answering themselves, and arguing with themselves. This is called incessant thinking. Do you do that? To stop this, just focus or observe details around you. When you analyze little things, the brain starts process- ing the little things and your brain begins to switch gears. This also works for stress reduction. Here’s the bad news about balancing all the global news, misinformation, multitasking, and talking to yourself: Your mental health could suffer. Pay attention to your well-being. If you are chronically tired, avoiding social activities, having changes in weight and eating habits, frequently angry, have a bad temper, or displaying memory problems— it’s time to re-boot! Be proactive, think positively, declutter— both physically and mentally, take notes, journal, and multi-task. Be more selective of information to read and receive. Don’t overload yourself with trivial and useless information. Your thoughts create your environment. Use what we learn in basic resiliency training: your thoughts affect your feelings; your feelings affect your behavior. Your mind is connected to your thoughts, and your thoughts to your actions, which is in turn connected to our consciousness. Finally, you’re human. You’ll have moments of anguish and despair, just release that energy. Don’t dwell on it. An- ger is a dangerous place to stay. Work towards managing your thoughts, navigating out of troubled thinking and then make a plan. It takes practice, but it works when you work it!

Stripes Japan is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. Hilary Valdez is a retiree living in Japan. He is an experienced This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department The appearance of advertising in this publication, including Mental Health professional and Resiliency Trainer. Valdez is a former of Defense for members of the military services overseas. inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of Marine and has worked with the military most of his career and However, the contents of Stripes Japan are unofficial, and are those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and most recently worked at Camp Zama as a Master Resiliency Trainer. not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication Valdez now has a private practice and publishes books on social and the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage psychological issues. His books are available on Amazon and for or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, Kindle. Learn more about Valdez and contact him at Japan may be distributed through official channels and use age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or www.hilaryvaldez.com or at [email protected] appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 4 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 5 6 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020

Left: Chaplain (Maj.) Doug Ochner, deputy chaplain waves farewell after presenting a Money Matters Virtual Marriage Workshop in his office at Camp Zama on Aug. 20. Above: Lamario Harris and his wife Tiara eat their free dinner after attending the workshop. Zama chaplains talk marriage, finances with couples online

STORY AND PHOTOS BY marriage, Ochner said. she is an Accredited Financial Lamario Harris, who attend- Ochner said the Camp Zama WINIFRED BROWN, “Opposites attract, right?” Counselor, and has taught finan- ed with his wife, Tiara, said they Religious Support Office used U.S. ARMY GARRISON JAPAN Ochner said asked. “The finan- cial classes, but participated are well versed in the basics of to offer the workshops twice a personal finance, but recently CAMP ZAMA – Money issues in cial geek is going to be attracted because there is always more to month before COVID-19, but marriage haven’t stopped due to to that free-spirited person who learn. made a renewed commitment plans to offer them monthly, ev- COVID-19, and neither has the throws caution to the wind be- “Finances are an important to following their budget more ery third Wednesday, as long as cause that’s not who they are, part of a good closely, so they Camp Zama Religious Support the installation is under Health and vice versa, but that’s where marriage and appreciated the Office when it comes to helping Protection Condition C (which coming together, these dif- any extra in- chance to take couples resolve those issues. limits the number of people ferences really enhance mar- sight into being the workshop. Chaplain (Maj.) Doug Och- who can meet in person). ner, U.S. Army Garrison Japan riage.” aligned is help- “Finances are “It takes dis- After the seminar, the cou- deputy chaplain, led the office’s Ochner encouraged partici- ful,” Clemons an important cipline,” Harris ples received a free dinner at first hour-long Money Matters pants to be satisfied with what said. part of a good said of following Virtual Marriage Workshop they have, quoting a Japanese It is essen- a budget. “It’s either the Camp Zama Com- from his office here Aug. 19, pastor he heard when he was tial that couples marriage and nice to have af- munity Club or the Sagamiha- addressing subjects such as lived in Japan in the 1980s. communicate any extra insight firmation thatra Family Housing Area Club, budgeting, financial affairs and “At the heart of debt is the about finances, you’re going in Ochner said. The limit per cou- buying a vehicle. mistaken belief that having Clemons said. into being the right direc- ple was $30. “On the list of issues couples more, newer, better stuff is “Since money aligned is helpful.” tion.” Ochner said the chaplain argue about, finances usually satisfying,” Ochner recounted. fights and mon- Tiara Harris community as a whole is host- ranks up there pretty high,” “But how can stuff satisfy our ey problems – Heidi Clemons said she recom- ing the workshops, and differ- hearts? It wasn’t made to. Were are the number mends couples Ochner told the group of five ent chaplains will hold them you made for the shirt you’re one cause of di- take future couples gathered through depending on the month. Google Meet. wearing or was it made for vorce, and our workshops be- “I’d just like to say I might Thankfully, however, learning you?” military life- cause they can be joining the next one as a par- about personal finance and talk- Couples who attended said style adds extra challenges, I get couples talking about money ing about money can improve a they took the workshop to learn believe talking about finances in a supportive environment. ticipant,” Ochner said. couple’s relationship as well as something new and make sure can keep us (and all couples) The workshop can make To contact the Camp Zama bottom line, Ochner said. they were on the right track. better connected in finances, conversations easier, allowing Religious Support Office, Different approaches to fi- Heidi Clemons, who attend- goals and other situations,” participants to suggest possible call (DSN) 315-263-4898 or nances can actually improve a ed with her husband, Jay, said Clemons said. changes, she said. (COMM) 046-407-4898. SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 7

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SETH ROBSON, STARS AND STRIPES Published: August 27, 2020

ith Japan’s rainy sea- son’s over and the tem- Tokyo W perature soaring into the 90s, it’s an ideal time for beach Kanagawa Pref. lovers to head for the seashore to soakYugawara up the sun. Beach a great place One of the most accessible Shizuoka Pref. YUGAWARA BEACH patches of sand for people living in western Tokyo or nearby Kanaga- wafor prefecture isnovice at Yugawara, a surfers to hang 10 seaside town famous for its hot springs. The drive to the town takes you along Japan’s east coast south of Tokyo and includes some spectacular views of Sagami The surf is not extreme at Yugawara Beach in Kanagawa prefecture, but lifeguards Bay. For most of the way the are on hand just in case. coast is rocky. You might see fishing boats and islands in the distance. Yugawara itself is sur- rounded by green, tree- covered hills that block views of nearby Mount Fuji. Small temples and shrines sprout from the hillsides, which are also dotted with homes. There’s plenty of park- ing beside the beach, This shrine to a guardian deity of children is among a number especially if you arrive of shrines near Yugawara Beach. early, which is a smart A surfer rides a wave at Yugawara Beach. move to avoid traffic and get your beach time in before spot. to polish up their English. the sun gets too intense. Some park- The surf at Yugawara isn’t There are lifeguards in the ADDRESS: 259-0312 Yoshihama, Yugawara- ing lots include showers, toilets and in the same league as waves at Bells middle of the beach ready to rescue machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa hoses to clean off the sand before Beach, , or Waimea Bay, anyone who gets into trouble be- Pref. you head home. Hawaii, or even up to the standard tween the flags. HOURS: Open daily, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Getting to the of what you can find You might see a few people out beach is as easy as in nearby Chiba pre- COSTS: Expressway tolls will vary, but EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: riding Jet Skis or paddling inflat- parking costs less than $10. walking across the fecture, but on any able boats, but there’s nothing too road and down a set given morning you’ll extreme going on. FOOD: Yugawara is also known for seafood and has plenty of restaurants, including a of concrete steps find dozens of surf- Yugawara is a great place for nov- leading to a shady McDonald’s at the south end of the beach ers catching waves. ice surfers and people with young that opens at 7 a.m. and a convenience spot under an elevat- You might find yourself floating kids who want to have a splash in store where you can stock up ahead of ed road that covers the back half of for a while, waiting for a decent set. relatively placid waters or work on your day on the water. the sand. Some might see it as an It’s a chance to practice any Japa- a tan or a sandcastle ashore. WEBSITE: yugawara-resort.com/yugawara eyesore, but if you want to have a nese you know talking to the other [email protected] snooze in the shade, it’s the perfect surfers, who might enjoy a chance Twitter: @SethRobson1 8 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 secrets about Daiso, Japan’s fun and quirky 100-yen shop! 7 LIVE JAPAN aiso is one of Japan’s 100-yen shop brands, known for offering a massive variety of unique and quirky D products. Almost everything can be bought for a mere 100 yen (that’s less than a dollar!), with only a few exceptions. Daiso’s selection boasts an astounding 70,000 different items! Here, you’ll find everything you need to enhance and fancy up your daily life. Browsing the colorful aisles is surprisingly fun, as you’ll stumble upon all kinds of little treasures you never knew you wanted! One of Daiso’s biggest draws is that despite the low price, all of its goodies are of astound- ingly high quality. That, of course, makes shopping there even more exciting – if you see something that strikes your fancy, just take it home! Let’s uncover seven se- crets about Daiso!

Secret No. 1: 5 sold per second! seconds: fake eyelashes! What are those super popular One sold every 1.3 Daiso products?

Cases, kitchen goods, snacks, cosmetics, statio- nery, DIY goods... some of Daiso Japan’s items are so popular, five are sold ev- ery second! The king of the shop is batteries, who would have thought? Throughout the country, it is by far the most-sold item, with 147,500,000 batteries sold every year! Other items, such as the ones we’re about to Secret No. : Photo by Alex W, Swedishnomad.com / Shutterstock.com introduce, hold similar 3 “sold in seconds” records. About 230,000 people Daiso provides high-quality goods for only 100 yen. The shop at Daiso every hour secret to this ridiculously low One sold every 10 seconds: sweet roasted chestnut! 15 seconds: neckties! price is “global expansion!” By One sold every throughout the world! now, the 100-yen shop has more than 5,000 stores throughout the world. This “multi-store development” allows Daiso to sell its goods so cheaply, and it seems that purchas- ing them in a massive quantity further helps to keep the price low. As of October 2017, Daiso boasts about 3,150 stores in Japan and about 1,900 stores worldwide. Dai- Secret No. 2: so can be found in 26 countries across , , Central and South America, the Middle East, and . Each year, about one billion people shop at Daiso worldwide – that’s 2.3 million per Daiso Japan’s day and 23,000 per hour! crème de la crème - the steady top sellers We asked Daiso’s staff to show us those items of the Of course, Daiso Japan has its own huge total selection of 70,000 goodies that are evergreen top logistics network to deliver the masses sellers and enjoy steady popularity. Secret No. 4: of Daiso products to both Japanese and Daiso Japan’s automated international stores quickly, accurately, o-koto an gyo and safely. There are eight regional ot -ku nt za K n Ka warehouse fits distribution centers in Japan, includ- ing the largest in the entire country, as Everyone knows the issue of cooking Gyoza are Japan’s version of potstickers and Tokyo Dome 16 times! well as sixteen overseas that also partly pasta in a small pot – there’s too much so delicious, you’ll find yourself craving them serve as factories. white foam that boils over! This little all too often. While ready-made gyoza may be The automated warehouses are Daiso’s kitchen helper called Koto-Koto-kun is hard to come by outside of Japan, the “Kantan pride; fully automated cranes pick up the correct here to save you from all that trouble! Gyoza” item helps you to make them at home items all by themselves. Next, these items are sorted by a Box Sorter that We put it to the test and cooked spa- with astounding ease! goes at a speed of 4.8km/h! It manages to sort the inventory of about 150 ~ 200 ghetti with Koto-Koto-kun in the pot. First, put the wrapper in place and add the stores at the same time, a process done entirely automatically for each delivery route. It sits at the bottom of the pot and stuffing. Until a while ago, Daiso shipped everything using standard cardboard boxes. has three protruding openings that Pull the little lever and the gadget will fold Recently, however, the brand act like vents for hot air. When we your gyoza in half, giving it a perfect shape! It switched to foldable resin con- added the spaghetti to the boiling can’t get much easier than that. tainers that have smart tags to water and changed to medium-high Impress your friends with your cooking identify their target store. Be- heat.....they did not boil over at all! skills and absolutely flawless Japanese pot- cause these containers are re- Hooray! stickers! usable, they do not only cut the costs quite substantially but are also much friendlier to the envi- ronment. The total space of all ware- houses adds up to 800,000 square meters, an area that could fit the massive Tokyo Dome 16 times! Furthermore, about 200 contain- ers are imported from overseas Photos courtesy of Live Japan to Japan every single day. SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 9 secrets about Daiso, Japan’s fun and quirky 100-yen shop!

Daiso has 15 categories for its products: Plastic goods, small electric goods, interior, living, garden- Secret No. 5: ing, hand-made DIY, stationery, cosmetics, hair goods, kitchen goods, Japanese and Western tableware, bento (boxed lunch) What are Daiso’s boxes, Japanese miscellaneous goods, cleaning and laundry “only in Japan” goods? goods, apparel, and part goods. The most “Only in Japan” goodies can be found in the cat- Which ones are the most egories of bento boxes, Japanese miscellaneous goods, and Japanese tableware. While everything can be found at interna- “Japanese-style?” tional locations as well, Japan’s Daiso stores have a particularly large stock. With their uniquely Japanese references and design, they make for excellent souvenirs!

C S t ol ge ol a or ar ar c ful , l se cky S goldfish purse ries: White lu ushi erasers

This adorable drawstring This little friend perfectly fits These tasty-little erasers are purse blends traditional aesthet- into the palm of your hand. When sure to make you hungry! About ics with an irresistibly cute gold- the little fellow starts to wave its 2.5 cm in size, they’re an ador- fish design! Its size while closed paw up and down, you won’t be able addition to your stationery is about 14.5cm × 14.5cm. Japa- able to resist a smile! Since its arsenal. If you look closely, nese floral patterns adorn both entirely solar-powered, no bat- you’ll notice all the individual the front on the back, while teries are necessary. Find a nice, rice grains! They don’t just look the head and tail of the fish are sunlit spot for the lucky cat and amazing, though, they also do an made with beautiful embroidery enjoy an extra dose of happiness! excellent job as erasers. on the crepe-like fabric. It even features double-sided tape on the bottom, making it a Photo by Alex W, Swedishnomad.com / Shutterstock.com perfect decoration for pretty much any sur- Daiso provides high-quality face! goods for only 100 yen. The Secret No. 7: secret to this ridiculously low Daiso’s headquarters price is “global expansion!” By Secret No. 6: now, the 100-yen shop has more Daiso develops about 700 is in ! than 5,000 stores throughout the world. This “multi-store development” new products each month! allows Daiso to sell its goods so cheaply, and it seems that purchas- It may come as a surprise that Daiso ing them in a massive quantity further helps to keep the price low. How is that possible? Japan’s headquarters is in Hiroshima As of October 2017, Daiso boasts about 3,150 stores in Japan and about 1,900 stores worldwide. Dai- City in Hiroshima Prefecture. Located in a so can be found in 26 countries across Asia, North America, Central and South America, the Middle part of Japan called Chūgoku, it is a popu- East, and Oceania. Each year, about one billion people shop at Daiso worldwide – that’s 2.3 million per lar tourist destination with sights including day and 23,000 per hour! Itsukushima Shrine, the Atomic Bomb Dome, and famous foods such as okonomiyaki or momiji manjū. Hiroshima is also home to several other Japanese companies. Among Of course, Daiso Japan has its own huge them is the automaker Mazda, the snack brand Calbee, as logistics network to deliver the masses well as the very first store of the clothing chain Uniqlo. of Daiso products to both Japanese and Secret No. 4: Daiso Japan was born from a shop called Yanō Shōten, international stores quickly, accurately, specializing in household goods. In 1977, it became Daiso Daiso Japan’s automated and safely. There are eight regional Industries Co., Ltd. and in 1991, the first directly-managed distribution centers in Japan, includ- warehouse fits shop opened its doors in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefec- ing the largest in the entire country, as ture. Ten years later, the first Daiso was opened in Tokyo Dome 16 times! well as sixteen overseas that also partly in August 2001. Just a month later in September, got serve as factories. its first Daiso and from thereon to this day, new stores are The automated warehouses are Daiso’s Daiso’s selection includes 70,000 opened every year. The only year when Daiso did not get a pride; fully automated cranes pick up the correct unique items and each month, 700 new new overseas location was 2013. items all by themselves. Next, these items are sorted by a Box Sorter that goods are developed! It seems that al- Why is that? Between 2012 and 1014, Daiso constructed goes at a speed of 4.8km/h! It manages to sort the inventory of about 150 ~ 200 most all miscellaneous goods are devel- its eight regional distribution centers in Japan, of which five stores at the same time, a process done entirely automatically for each delivery route. oped by the company! How is that even started their operation in 2013. All efforts went into these Until a while ago, Daiso shipped everything using standard cardboard boxes. possible? warehouses during that year, the foundation of Daiso Japan’s Recently, however, the brand Daiso teams up with over 1,400 manu- current logistics system. It’s a story of quick development switched to foldable resin con- facturers in 45 countries and 8,000 fac- and expansion that doesn’t seem to stop anytime soon! tainers that have smart tags to tories in 45 countries. About 30 Chinese Interestingly enough, there’s barely any commercials or identify their target store. Be- people, Korean people, people of Japa- ads for Daiso in Japan. And yet, it is one of the most popular cause these containers are re- nese descent throughout the world, and stores that you absolutely have to visit at least once while usable, they do not only cut the buyers of various nationalities enjoy in Japan! We asked a Daiso spokesman about why everyone costs quite substantially but are close relationships with Daiso, connect- loves the 100-yen shop so much and they simply answered: also much friendlier to the envi- ing the company to local businesses. “Because we always develop shops and products, so people ronment. With 70,000 unique items, it’s easy to never get bored.” The total space of all ware- imagine that inventory control is quite a houses adds up to 800,000 square challenge. Since so many new items are meters, an area that could fit the released every month, the staff carefully Daiso really is a shop that brings color into people’s dai- massive Tokyo Dome 16 times! checks the situation: “What’s not so pop- ly life with fresh and unique ideas. By all means, stop by Furthermore, about 200 contain- ular, what doesn’t sell well?” This check and experience the power of Japan’s manufacturing first- ers are imported from overseas is done every day, so there are a steady hand! On top of that, who knows what little surprises you’ll to Japan every single day. review and exchange of goods. find in Daiso’s aisles! 10 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020

File photo on

Top weird ways Japan took baked goods to another level LIVE JAPAN original inspiration in terms of appearance, but are the word for bread in Japanese). Despite their being distinguished by their rich and interesting flavor found practically everywhere in Japan, since souzai hen it comes to food, some of the most combinations as well. pan blend in with their common counterparts so well, unique culinary creations found in Japan When most people think about “bread,” usually most are not immediately recognized by foreign visi- W are not limited to high-class restaurants, a vision of baguettes, rolls or sandwiches comes to tors. But if you know what you’re looking for, you’ll but can be found at the humble convenience store mind. In Japan, these common varieties are joined find just to what extent bread is as much a food as it or supermarket. Often they no longer resemble the by a unique genre known as souzai pan (“pan” being is an artistic medium. Imagine a handy sized pizza just for 100 yen, but without the messy sauce or drippy cheese – that’s the concept behind pizza bread in Ja- pan! It tastes almost perfectly like a pizza and since it’s wrapped in CARBSa pouch, it’s a highly portable snack for when you’re on the go. Oc- casionally, you may even see a delectable homemade version of this – pizza toast – at local cafes and eateries. Eaten cold or toasted hot, piz- 5 za bread can really hit the spot. Varieties can range from the standard CARBStomato sauce with cheese to a more unique tuna and mayonnaise mix. Stir-fried noodles in a hot dog bun! When traveling around Japan, PIZZA you may notice people munching on these at lunchtime, particularly in parks or outside convenience stores. Although the taste of noodle BREAD sandwiches may be a little difficult to imagine, there’s definitely some magic happening between the savory yakisoba and light sweetness of the bread that makes them taste unexpectedly great! Not only will you find yakisoba sandwiches in Japan, but also Na- poritan – a version containing spaghetti, tomato ketchup or sauce, plus onions, mushrooms and other vegetables.

Visitors to Japan are often surprised by the extent to which Japanese YAKISOBA love curry. It is possibly one of the all-time favorite foods for Japanese kids and a number of varieties have developed over the decades – in- SANDWICH cluding the curry donut. People outside of Japan would probably won- der why Japanese would take a spicy dish and place it inside a sugary pastry. That’s precisely where culinary creativity meets innovation: the curry filling tends to be on the milder side, while the deep-fried shells tend to be savory, resulting in a marvelous marriage of flavor and texture. Once you taste one you’ll love it too!

When you wander about a convenience store, supermarket or shop- ping street, you’ll undoubtedly come across a bread with an outer tex- CURRY ture reminiscent of a pineapple, often coated with sugar granules. This is the almighty melon bread that’s very popular as a treat for kids and adults alike. Not only does it have a light honeydew melon flavor, but it BREAD has a somewhat crispy crust and tender inside. These days there are varieties made using maple syrup or whipped cream which are especially popular with kids. Particu- 1 larly in the cooler months, shops may even serve these delectable rolls hot – a recommended indulgence indeed. MELON Many dessert breads in Japan resemble their namesake, and the BREAD chocolate cornet is no different. A simple smooth, lightly sweet bread that’s filled with thick nutty chocolate custard, chocolate coronets are popular as a breakfast item or as a mid-afternoon sweet at work. These 2 yummy treats are equally enjoyed for dessert or as an evening snack.

Photos courtesy of Live Japan CHOCOLATE CORNET 3 BREAD 4 5 SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 11

The pork gyro from Shupoul: A tightly wrapped pita stuffed with sliced pork, tomato, red onion and Greek yoghurt sitting next to a stack of freshly fried, lightly salted potatoes.

The tzatziki, left, from Shupoul consists of six crackers with a dollop of the Greek yogurt and cucumber sauce, each with a caper, kalamata olive slice ADDRESS: 2-5-15 Hagoromocho, or chunk of cherry tomato. Tachikawa, Tokyo 190-0021 DIRECTIONS: A 30-minute drive from Yokota Air Base. The Google plus code is MCWH+G4 Tachikawa, Tokyo. HOURS: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Monday. PRICES: Appetizers start at $3.50 and meals range between $8 and $16. DRESS: Casual PHONE: 042-519-3923 WEBSITE: shupoul.com GO GR ΣΣΚ Sail waves of Mediterranean flavor near Yokota

STORY AND PHOTOS BY welcomed me in Japanese and the staples. If the basic items cucumber were all drizzled The gyro came shortly af- THERON GODBOLD, pointed me to an empty table. are good, you’ve found a place in oil and vinegar. A pinch of ter the appetizers. A tightly STARS AND STRIPES Published: August 20, 2020 On the menu, each item worth another visit. Mediterranean herbs littered wrapped pita stuffed with is named in English, but de- After looking at Shupoul’s the small salad plate. sliced pork, tomato, red onion he Greek restaurant scribed in Japanese. I saw menu, I set my mind to tzatziki The tzatziki came next, not and Greek yogurt sat next to Shupoul serves Medi- many dishes that I didn’t ex- (about $3.50) and a gyro lunch as a sauce but as a topping. a stack of freshly fried, lightly T terranean flavors from pect. plate (about $11). Six crackers with a dollop of salted potatoes. pizza to souvlaki. When I lived in Chania, on As I waited, upbeat jazz the Greek yogurt and cucum- The flavors of this meal Shupoul is just a 30-minute the island of Crete, I found a played in the back- ber sauce topped took me back. I could almost drive from the base, and with little restaurant run by a Greek ground. Quickly, EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: the crackers, each hear the Mediterranean waves paid parking next door is easy family where I was introduced my food began to with a caper, ka- crashing in the Chania harbor. to reach. The main dining room to home-cooked Greek food. arrive; the entire lamata olive slice As I finished my meal and has seating for 14 at four tables The menu at Shupoul surprised meal was at my or chunk of cherry went to pay, I thanked the staff and four small-group rooms me with things like moussaka, table in less than tomato capping it and thought to myself that it that seat eight. halloumi cheese and tzatziki. 10 minutes. off. The flavor was good, light might not be Greece, but the This restaurant has you cov- Over the years, I’ve learned A salad and drink came and almost sweet with a good flavors came very close. ered if a taste of Greece is what to sidestep the foods that top with the meal. Leafy greens, blend of salty brine flavor from [email protected] you’re looking for. The staff the menu and instead go for sliced tomato, white onion and the olives and capers. Twitter: @GodboldTheron 12 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020

Say cheers with these Popular non-alcoholic 18 popular Japanese drinks Japanese drinks BY JAMES KRICK, BYFOOD Green tea Green tea first originated in and legend states that the first apan is of course a country that is famed for its cuisine. Across the globe, green tea seeds were brought to Japan by two Buddhist monks, Saicho Japanese food is revered for its depth, flavor and its subtlety. Ask anyone 1 and Kukai, in the early 9th century. These seeds were then planted in J from New York to about sushi or ramen and you will no doubt Uji, near Kyoto, which then became the birthplace of Japanese green tea receive an enthusiastic response! However, for many first time visitors to the coun- (specifically Uji matcha) in Japan. try, Japanese drinks remain something of a mystery. Today, we will look at some of Today, there are about 20 different variations of green tea that exist in Japan. the most famous and unique Japanese drinks that are just as interesting as the food The green tea flavor has also become a symbol of the country and can be found and can be the perfect compliment to your meal. in everything from Kit Kats to soap! However, nothing truly symbolizes the im- Japan is a country where both the traditional and the modern live in tandem. portance of green tea to Japanese culture more than the traditional tea ceremony, This is an aspect of the culture that can also be seen even when we look at what chado (茶道) or “the way of tea.” This ritual with Zen Buddhist origins, which people drink in modern Japan. We start with perhaps the most important and fa- uses the matcha tea variation of green tea, has come to represent Japanese cul- mous Japanese drink of all, the humble green tea. ture to the outside world and is all centered around the presentation and enjoy- ment of the humble beverage.

Royal milk tea Bubble tea Flavored soy milk Yakult In keeping with the dif- Originally an imported Soy milk, a natural byproduct Today a drink that is fa- ferent teas of Japan, anoth- 3 drink from Taiwan that is a of making tofu by grinding soy- 5 mous the world over, this pro- 2 er unique drink that is very fairly recent fixture to menus 4 beans, has long been an alterna- biotic, fermented milk bever- popular amongst Japanese in the big cities of Japan, tive for dairy milk in Japan. It age was first invented by the people is Royal Milk Tea. This blend bubble tea has now become a massive is a beverage that again holds a place of renowned Japanese scientist, of “English” tea (a combination of As- hit, particularly amongst the younger special importance in Japanese cuisine, Dr. Minoru Shirota in 1935. This small sam and Darjeeling leaves) generations. In its original and is used to make yuba or the skin but mighty drink has been scientifical- is brewed and then a healthy incarnation, this tea is milk from boiled soy milk. It is also used as ly proven to help maintain a healthy measure of milk is added. tea (not dissimilar to Royal the base for a special winter stew called stomach and increases the amount This can then be sweetened Milk Tea) that can be made tonyu nabe (soy milk hotpot). How- of good bacteria in your system. The with either milk or honey to with black, oolong, or jas- ever, in recent years the popularity of drink is so popular in Japan that not taste. This is a drink that can mine tea leaves and added soy milk as a stand alone beverage has only does it come in different flavors, be enjoyed either hot or cold tapioca balls. The tea is usu- soared with many flavored options such but it is delivered from door-to-door and is a year-round favorite. ally served sweet with added as banana, sakura, and of course mat- and to offices each day and it even has sugar. cha! There are even limited edition fla- a baseball team (the Yakult Swallows) vors such as pudding-flavored soy milk! named after it!

Aloe drinks Melon soda Calpis Pocari Sweat Okinawa is famous for An absolute favorite Calpis is a non-carbonated In the summer months, Ja- many different tropical fruits amongst young Japanese soft drink with a very unique 9 7 8 pan can be punishingly hot and 6 and vegetables. Perhaps one high school students, melon taste. It has a somewhat sweet humid, so it is important to stay of the best known is its aloe soda is widely available and and milky texture and a light, hydrated! Pocari Sweat is the drink vera plant, which is cultivated year is a particular treat at karaoke bars slightly sour aftertaste not un- (with a somewhat off-putting name) round. The plant contains over 200 and other places where students con- like Yakult. It is a drink that is popu- that will help you do just that! Strange active compounds and vitamins and gregate! For a particularly decadent lar with all age groups and is found name aside, Pocari Sweat is in fact a is acknowledged by the people of Oki- twist, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream throughout the country. Interestingly, non-carbonated isotonic sports drink nawa acknowledge as one of their se- for a melon soda float. Calpis is based on the ancient Mongo- that contains important minerals and crets to long life! Aloe vera juice and lian drink airag, which the inventor of electrolytes that keep you hydrated and aloe yogurt drinks are now among the Calpis, Kaiun Mishima, tasted during well-supplied with nutrients. The drink most popular drinks in Japan and are an expedition to . is available in convenience stores across widely available. Japan and is a favorite with ath- letes and sports teams. SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 13

Browse tea farm tours 1 in Japan

Check out our blog post 6 bubble tea shops in 3 Tokyo to read more about the bubble tea craze in Japan!

Learn more about hatsumode and oshogatsu in our article 11 about Japanese new Ramune Amazake Coffee year traditions! A summer favorite which is Amazake is perhaps the 12 While Japan may be seen To get your caffeine fix, check out these available at all matsuri (festi- most unique drink on this list by many as the nation of 12 8 Tokyo cafes and 10 vals) and is one of the most 11 and has one of the longest green tea, make no mistake roasteries with killer uniquely Japanese drinks on histories. This sweet drink Japan is also a coffee drinker’s para- coffee! this list (despite first being in- is made with fermented rice, dise. The most popular drink in the troduced to Japan by a Scot- and it can be alcoholic or non-alcohol- world after water, coffee can be found tish pharmacist during the ic. Sometimes it is made with the sake absolutely everywhere in Japan, from Browse Japanese sake 13 tastings in Japan Meiji era), Ramune is a carbonated kasu that’s left over from the Japa- convenience stores and vending ma- soda that comes in a variety of differ- nese sake brewing process, giving it a chines to tiny shops run by coffee ent flavors and is served in its distinct- delicious tang. It can be served either purists who sell some of the most ex- ly-shaped glass bottle for a refreshing hot or cold but is more traditionally pensive and rare coffees in the world. Browse Japanese beer summer treat. Sometimes referred to enjoyed hot in winter to warm up win- Visitors to Japan should not miss the 14 tastings in Japan as “marble soda” abroad, to open this ter revelers through on the chilly eve- opportunity to sample a cup of one of beverage you must push the marble nings. This drink is also a traditional Japan’s drip coffees which is the pre- that seals it into the narrow neck of New Year’s beverage that is offered ferred method of brewing across the the bottle. at temples and shrines during hatsu- country. Browse whisky tastings mode. 15 in Japan

Popular alcoholic Japanese drinks

Japanese sake (Nihonshu) Japanese craft beer Japanese whisky The grandfather of Japanese alcoholic drinks, nihonshu, or sake as Much like the growth of 15 In 2014, the world of 13 it is known outside Japan, is a rice wine that is made from rice, rice 14 Japanese whisky, Japanese whisky experienced a shock koji, and water. It is believed that sake is the oldest alcoholic drink in craft beer has also experi- when, for the first time in Japan and there is evidence of s ake consumption dating back to the enced a real boom in recent history, a Scottish whisky was defeated third century! years. There are now many different and a Japanese whisky was named the This is a drink that can be served cold in summer and hot in winter and cer- craft beer pubs dotted around the coun- best in the world. Japan takes its whis- tainly should not be missed by any visitor to Japan. Sake has a huge number of try that offer some fantastic Japanese in- ky very seriously indeed and this can different varieties and regional specialities. You can also find a great number of terpretations on beers such as IPAs and be seen with the wide and varied selec- specialty sake bars that will give you the opportunity to try a wide variety. stouts but also some truly unique Japa- tion of local brands available. For those nese flavors such as beers brewed with who are very interested in the process, sakura or yuzu! the major Japanese distilleries also of- fer guided tours and sampling!

All in all, Japan has a huge vari- ety of different, unique and wonder- ful drinks to try. Many of these can be seasonal and completely unique to the region, meaning that for the visitor, there is an endless galaxy of flavors to experience! Expand your palate. Browse tast- ings in Japan and become an expert on Umeshu Shochu Chuhai Japanese sake, whisky, tea, and more! 16 Umeshu or Japanese plum 17 A staple of the izakaya, sho- The university and col- wine, is a sweet, plum-flavored chu is a clear alcoholic drink 18 lege students’ drink of choice, liqueur with a rich taste and a that can be distilled from a vari- chuhai, is a combination of byFood is a platform for food events honey-colored look. This alcoholic fa- ety of ingredients such as sweet potatoes, shochu and a sweet, flavored in Tokyo, with over 80 experiences to vorite can be drunk straight but is also barley, or rice. Regional variations of soda. The most popular vari- choose from and a fantastic resource delicious when mixed with soda water shochu can be drunk all over Japan and ant of the chu-hai is lemon for learning about Japan’s thriving food or even with a splash of water. this is a very popular drink amongst sala- flavor but there are tens of different culture! What’s more, byFood runs a rymen and women during work parties. flavors available. Chuhai is readily charitable outreach program, the Food available in all convenience stores but for Happiness Project, which donates a tastier and more refined variation of 10 meals to children in for the drink can be found in many izaka- each person who books a food event ya and bars where fresh fruit is used through our platform! to mix. Photos courtesy of byFood 14 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020

Lake Shoji

The hidden gem of Mt. Fuji

Editor’s Note: These are uncertain conjunction with our visit to Aokiga- times, so please make sure to follow hara forest. In that time, we were able local and military travel guidelines, to see Fujisan at many different hours and practice proper hand-washing and of the day, in varying light and weather social-distancing. conditions. The water of Lake Shoji is green STORY AND PHOTOS BY with plankton, supporting a wide va- SIMONE ARMER, SIMONEARMER.COM riety of fish, most notably the Crucian Carp. It’s also a popular spot for row- ake Shoji is a hidden gem ing and boating. at the base of Mt Fuji. The There is also a small camping ground smallest of the Fuji Five on the lakeshore and a panorama ob- L lakes, it is beautifully quiet servatory a short hike away. and serene, and completely removed We stayed at the Mount Shoji Hotel from the rest of the bustling, touristy which offers a view of the lake and vol- scene surrounding the famous volcano. cano from every room. It also has two Almost untouched, the lake only has public baths and addictive massage four hotels, 2 restaurants and a con- chairs, both free of charge. bini. It’s hard to imagine why; it offers I’d really love to climb Mt Fuji one a completely unobstructed view of Mt day, but waking up to her peering Fuji, Mt. Omuro and Aokigahara forest. through the window was also quite a We spent two nights on the lake in treat. SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES JAPAN 15

Who is this former LA Galaxy player who is also the all-time leading goal scorer in Major League

Soccer (MLS) with 144 goals in 334 games played?

Stripes Sports TriviaDonovan Landon

Answer Week of 8/31/20 - 9/6/20

3 1967~2020

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

1 Furthermore 14 15 16 5 Greeting at sea 9 City of Light 17 18 19 14 Put one over on 20 21 22 15 Back of the neck 16 Bigger than big 23 24 25 17 Crude wooden 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 DID YOU cross 18 Spanish three 34 35 36 37 KNOW? 19 Australian "bear" 38 39 40 41 20 Seller of frames 22 Assistant 42 43 44 45 23 ___ Royal 46 47 48 49 apan is on the intersection of three Highness 24 African adven- 50 51 52 53 tectonic plates, making it highly ture prone to earthquakes and volcanic 26 Pop-ups, e.g. 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 activity.J So, while stationed in Japan, 28 With little effort 61 62 63 it is highly likely that you will experi- 30 Lose traction ence one. Be aware: tsunamis can follow 34 Dow dabbler 64 65 66 36 Like sushi a large-scale quake. Also, it is recom- 67 68 69 mended to keep an emergency earth- 37 Fine-tune 38 Allegiance Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate quake kit available with the survival 40 Cuts in half basics. 42 Declare 2 Aerial maneuver 39 1969 film, "Paint 54 Machine parts positively 3 Fortune teller ____ Wagon" 55 Reunion atten- 43 Charged item 4 "Golden" song 41 Grassy plant dee 45 Vacation spot 5 Social starter 44 Fertilizer chemi- 56 Workshop 46 Withered 6 Pester persis- cal gripper 47 Appropriate tently 48 "Bombshell" 58 Kind of cat? 49 Dairy farm 7 Kind of market actress 59 Emanation sound 8 Triumphant cry 51 Straight and tall 60 Tear up Kanji of 50 Scarcity 9 Bluffer's game 53 O founder 62 Little bit 52 Gloppy stuff 10 Makes illegal 54 Spelunker's spot 11 Anagram for the week Kami (paper) 紙 57 Nerve ending "pear" Answers to Last Week's Crossword: 61 Full of pep 12 Wight, for one E L B A P A R E S C A L D 62 Starch source 13 Burn slightly A A R P I B I S C A M E O 63 Carnival attrac- 21 Angler's basket G R I P C U S T A R D P I E Language Lesson tion 22 Out of control E V A L U A T E N O E L 64 Rap or rock 25 Spare tire R A R E F Y F O O T I N G 65 On the peak of 26 Rand's shrugger T O U C H I N G T A R 66 Cosmetics com- 27 Took the wheel T O U R N E O N E T U D E Where is bathroom? pany founded in 29 Glassblower, R U N E E L L I S E D I T 1886 e.g. A N D E S E L S E S E R A 67 Refine, as ore 31 Train puller I C E M A R Y H A R T Week of 8/31/20 - 9/6/20 68 Say "No way!" 32 Opening words T E R S E L Y S U P P E R 69 Grazing group 33 Basil-based F E L T F L O T I L L A Toire wa doko desuka? sauce S T E N T O R I A N L A I D DOWN 35 Evel Knievel, for O B E S E O N C E O N T O 1 Roundish do one W A D E R W E E D T E E N

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Easy HOW TO SOLVE: 2 3 1 6 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 8 7 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 6 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 6 5 4 Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 9 8 5 7 2 6 3 4 1 7 1 9 8 7 3 1 5 8 4 2 9 6 2 4 6 9 1 3 8 7 5 9 5 6 9 7 8 4 5 1 3 2 2 4 1 5 5 2 8 3 9 1 7 6 4 3 1 4 2 6 7 9 5 8 3 6 1 5 3 6 7 8 4 2 9 7 4 3 4 7 2 1 5 9 6 8 3 Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 8 6 9 4 3 2 5 1 7

16 STRIPES JAPAN A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC SEPTEMBER 4 − SEPTEMBER 10, 2020 Photos courtesy of Live Japan

BY CASSANDRA LORD, LIVE JAPAN Geishance part of a booming in industry Kyoto displaying the elegant struggle traditions of Japan, Kyo- to’s Geisha now find themselves at a crossroads with the spread of the Corona- O virus and lack of visitors to the famous Geisha districts.

to protect traditions discouraging evening activities and visiting entertain- ment venues, many events were still not held this sum- mer in Kyoto. Most Geisha have continued to stay in their hometowns outside of Kyoto. One Geisha who remained within Kyoto remarked, in face of coronavirus “I think many of those who left may not come back at all and quit this profession if the pandemic does not end soon.”

A Maiko (apprentice geisha) explaining the use of their special The empty streets of Gion, once bustling with tourists and locals. high pillow for sleeping.

In April, the government issued an emergency shutdown which closed the five Geisha districts of Geisha in Kyoto are finding themselves having to Kyoto*, and all businesses ceased to a halt. This is adjust and re-evaluate how to continue to uphold tra- said to have been the first time that all the Geisha dis- ditions in these trying times of travel restrictions and tricts have been forced to close since World War II. social distancing. Hair ornaments and outfits change with the season for Maiko. The Geisha industry was really struggling. In early February, teahouses immediately began to Closed for the first time since the war The Kyoto Geisha Association (Ookini Zaidan) see sharp declinesFalling in bookings on hard and sales,times as customers provided a stipend of 100,000 yen per person to sup- worried about the spread of the virus in such closed port the Geiko and Maiko, but all expenses consid- spaces. The traditional annual dances that have con- ered, such as training and high-quality clothing, this What was once a close, intimate, and decidedly tra- tinued for decades were also then cancelled due to was but a small victory. Thus, locals began to set up ditional experience is now something that has been precautions of congregating in large groups. Of course, separate crowdfunding campaigns to help the Geisha pushed into the modern, technological world. Geisha the health of the Geisha and the clients were put first, community, one of which is still running. are taking their talents online and sharing the experi- and this was unavoidable. Then in March, each of the ence with people from all over the globe. Geisha districts were put on high alert, and many can- *The five Geisha districts of Kyoto: Kamishichiken, However,Renewing this presents the anGeisha interesting scene opportunity celled events for the remainder of the year, and nearly Gion Kobu, Ponto-Cho, Miyagawa-Cho, and Gion for international guests. It was once nigh on impossible all bookings were cancelled in a bid to protect elderly Higashi clients. for first-timers to meet true Geisha in Kyoto, because Whilst all this was going on, most Geisha were forced of a rule known as “ichigensan okotowari,” meaning a to leave their lodgings and personal reference is necessary for meeting a Geisha. return home to their fami- Now, with these online meetings, for the first time ever lies. However, this does not rules are relaxing and people can meet real Kyoto Gei- mean the Geisha kicked up sha online. their feet and sat idly by while To facilitate this, the Kimono Tea Ceremony KYO- the country was on lockdown. TO MAIKOYA has started a reservation service where The Geisha continued to diligent- people can book a Geisha meeting online or face to ly practice the arts online with face (or mask to mask) easily. Although the Geisha their teachers, and many helped Museum run by the same company will close its doors their local communities by sew- indefinitely, instead, these sessions will feature ap- ing face masks with traditional prentice Geisha, known as Geiko or Maiko, in their full materials. These tradition- outfits and accessories that often take 2-3 hours with al materials were made assistance to put on. The Geisha will interact with the from the same Tenugui customer for one-hour sessions, having conversations, (decorative cloths or dancing, and even performing tea ceremonies online. On June 1, the Geisha districts were opened once hand towels) that the For those with more of an interest in the background Geisha would nor- again. But now there are new rules for interacting with their esteemed customers. and history of Geisha, guests can opt to speak with a mally have handed Geisha house owner to learn about Geisha training, out during special The Geisha must now remain 1-2 meters apart from guests, cannot speak when pouring sake, have a lim- and what a day in the life of an apprentice Geisha is celebrations, and Reopening of the Geisha districts like. The course aims to cover the his- over 400 of these ited time they can spend in one room, If you would like to book tory, how Geisha learn the arts, how masks were and must adhere to a 10 p.m. curfew. In a session and support the they must dress and prepare each day, sewn by hand. turn, guests from outside of Kyoto must be screened before even booking an ap- traditional Kyoto arts, see below: and how they interact with customers pointment to meet the Geisha. Some https://mai-ko.com/geisha/ of all ages. regions of Japan have a particu- These online Geisha experiences larly high concentration of coronavirus cases, and may be considered somewhat pricey in comparison some guests from these areas are currently being to other online Zoom classes, but Mr. Acar of KYOTO refused entry to avoid further spread of the virus. MAIKOYA thinks that it would be disrespectful to the But, even with these new measures, with the genuine Kyoto Geisha for a lower fee, especially given second wave and renewed government statements how much effort goes into preparation.