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The Society for the Preservation of Hudson Valley Vernacular Architecture October – December 2017 Newsletter Vol. 20, No.10-12 HVVA is a not-for-profit corporation formed to study and preserve the vernacular architecture and material culture of the Hudson Valley Exciting New Projects in Local History Peter Sinclair at SUNY New Paltz and Bard College Founder, Trustee Emeritus West Hurley, Ulster County, NY Walter Wheeler – President Troy, Rensselaer County, NY [email protected] John Ham – Vice-President Troy, Rensselaer County, NY [email protected] Karen Markisenis Corresponding Secretary & Treasurer Kingston, Ulster County, NY [email protected] Michele VanHoesen Recording Secretary Highland, Ulster County, NY [email protected] Robert Sweeney – Past President Kingston, Ulster County, NY [email protected] Neil Larson – Newsletter Editor Woodstock, Ulster County, NY [email protected] John Stevens – Trustee Senior Architectural Historian Hurley, Ulster County, NY [email protected] Elliott Bristol – Trustee Tivoli, Dutchess County, NY [email protected] Mapping the New Paltz Patent – 340 Years Later Jim Decker – Trustee Hurley, Ulster County, NY Working with Carol Johnson and Margaret Stanne from the Haviland- [email protected] Heidgerd Historical Collection of the Elting Memorial Library in New Paltz, Conrad Fingado – Trustee Gregory Krupp, a student intern from SUNY New Paltz’s Geography Pleasant Valley, Dutchess County, NY [email protected] Department, has georeferenced the plan of the original patent and its Don Hanzl – Trustee early divisions to current parcel maps. These divisions were made by West Camp, Ulster County, NY the patent’s twelve proprietors, since recalled as the Duzine, and each Bob Hedges – Trustee contained twelve lots, one each for the families. In this way the original Pine Plains, Dutchess County, NY town was gradually partitioned in an orderly grid plan as indicated in [email protected] the accompanying illustration. (The lots below the patent’s southern line Ken Krabbenhoft – Trustee Stone Ridge, Ulster County, NY represent the spread of settlement of two of the New Paltz families; the [email protected] divisions made on the west side of the patent are still to be determined.) William McMillen – Trustee Krupp was able to identify old boundary and plot lines combining a vari- Glenmont, Albany County, NY [email protected] ety of computer mapping tools and aerial imagery with old deeds, maps, town records, and stone walls. Liza Sunderlin – Trustee Kingston, Ulster County, NY Greg Krupp presented his map for the first time at the Elting Memorial [email protected] Library on November 7, 2017. A second presentation is planned for Sat- Ken Walton – Trustee Gardiner, Ulster County, NY urday February 17, 2018 in Deyo Hall, Broadhead Anenue, New Paltz. [email protected] The map is available at http://arcg.is/aueia. (Continued on back page) 2 October – December 2017 Hudson Valley Plantation Houses – Part II By Neil Larson Fig. 1 – Detail of Costello Plan of New Amsterdam, 1660. The location of Oloff Van Cortlandt’s home and brewery is circled. Eric Homberger, The Historical Atlas of New York City (NY: Holt, 1994), 33. As stated in Part 1 of this article, the country did who visited there in 1697. He was entertained by not exist in isolation of the city in the 18th century. Benjamin Fletcher, the colonial governor, who took (And as we know, it still doesn’t.) The two were linked him to see the first Trinity Church, which was under within an intricate social and economic system that construction at the time. The governor also introduced was based in the city. So was the architecture, which him to Abraham de Peyster, who had been mayor of was expressed particularly in the design of dwelling New York from 1691 to 1695 and had a new residence houses. Thus, any consideration of the plantation that Bullivant termed “a noble building of the newest house begins in the city where merchant plantation English fashion.” According to the doctor, the city’s owners had their primary residences. Unfortunately, “auncient buildings were very meane,” but “most of it seems that less is known about dwellings in the theyr new buildings are magnificent enough.” city, where progress has been ruthless, than those in the country, where at least a few interpretable objects …ye fronts of red and yallow (or flanders) brick still survive. And it appears that these early city Lookeing very prettily, some of them are 6 stories residences were virtually wiped out before any high & built with a Gable end to ye front & so by historians thought to record anything about them. Consequence make Very narrow garratts. the 3d story is usually a warehouse, and over it a Crane City Houses for hawleing up goods. The Lower part is comonly One of the earliest accounts of architecture in Very substantiall & neate. The Sealeing usually Manhattan is that of Dr. Benjamin Bullivant, of Boston, of well smoothed boards, betwixt Joyces as large www.hvva.org 3 as our Brest sumers & kept so cleane by frequent Place… and when purchased, March 12, 1646, was washing with soape & sand, that indeed makes a beautiful rural retreat, with a magnificent view of the the Roome very pleasant. The windows are high harbor and Hudson River.” 4 & large, as are the stories, ten or 12 foot ye first the casements of wood at bottom windows, and Oloff Stephensen Van Cortlandt died in 1684. During without, strong and thick shutters. The chimneys the lifetimes of his two sons, Stephanus and Jacobus without Jawmes, hanging like the Topp of a pulpit, Van Cortlandt, New York expanded greatly and many but usually a good rich fringed callico, or other of its new buildings reflected the maturing of its social stuffe halfe a yard deep at ye edges, with Dutch establishment and the spread of the Classical taste tyles on each side of the fire place, carried very in Europe and its colonies. One traveler remarked High They also tyle theyr sides of ye staircase, in 1744 on how the city was taking form, but the and bottom of windows… most bricked houses enduring presence of the old Dutch style still have ye date of the yeare on them, contrived of “astonished” him. 1 Iron cramps to hold in ye timber to the walls. The city makes a very fine appearance for above a mile all along the [East] river, and here lies a Through this man’s eyes, the transformation of New great deal of shipping… I found the city less in Amsterdam, with its small-scale, impermanent archi- extent, but by the stir and frequency upon the tecture modeled by the simple specifications of the streets, more populous than Philadelphia. I saw Dutch West India Company, into English-governed more shipping in the harbour. The houses are New York with a prospering merchant class ready to more compact and regular, and in general higher live up to their elite status. From Bullivant’s account, built, most of them after the Dutch model, with it appears that, in this first wave of rebuilding, the their gavell [sic] ends fronting the street. There are traditional Dutch mode of architecture – multi-story a few built of stone; more of wood, but the greatest front-gable brick houses with stores at street level number of brick, and a great many covered with and attic warehouses – was preserved, yet at a new pantile and glazed tile with the year of God when enlarged and aggrandized scale that he associated built figured out with plates of iron, upon the fronts with the English. of several of them. The streets in general are but The Costello Plan of New Amsterdam, first drawn narrow and not regularly disposed. The best of in 1660, depicts the house and brewery of Oloff them run parallel to the river, for the city is built Stephensen Van Cortlandt on Brower, later Stone, all along the water, in general.5 Street just east of the fort and west of the Heere A few years later, Swedish naturalist Peter Kalm Gracht, or canal (Fig.1). A few descriptions of this visited the city and astutely described the changing property have been published, and while their veracity scene. He saw that some dwellings “had, in the old is questionable, they sustain the image of the Dutch style, turned the gable end toward the street; but the architectural style, which is entirely plausible since new houses were altered in this respect. Many of Oloff Stevenson was of the first generation of Dutch the houses had a balcony on the roof, on which the colonists in New Amsterdam. In his Reminiscences people used to sit evenings in the summer season; of the City of New York and Its Vicinity, Henry Dawson and from thence they had a pleasant view of a great wrote that the Van Cortlandts lived in “a good old part of the town, and likewise a part of the adjacent double stone house, with little windows, immense fire water and the opposite shore.” 6 places, and a steeple roof.” 2 In an another account, Mrs. John King Van Rensselaer pronounced that J. Ritchie Garrison has provided a good explanation a contract for the house had been preserved and of the Anglo-Dutch sources of Baroque Classicism in described the edifice only as a “quaint-looking house… New York architecture at the end of the 17th century built after the custom of Patria, with glazed bricks in his stylistic analysis of Philipse Manor House in imported from Amsterdam… [and the] roof sloping Yonkers.7 In the report, he illustrated the architectural with the gable end to the street, a fashion that struck shift occurring in the city with a comparison of details all foreigners with astonishment…” 3 Van Rensselaer from city views dated 1678 and 1717.