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The Organic Research Centre “Organic Salmon” – a Precedent for God Knows What?

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The Organic Research Centre “Organic Salmon” – a Precedent for God Knows What? The Organic Research Centre Elm Farm Research Centre Bulletin with Technical Updates from The Organic Advisory Service No. 85 October 2006 “Organic Salmon” – a precedent THE ORGANIC RESEARCH CENTRE is an international research, for God knows what? advisory and educational organisation based in the UK. The Soil Association’s decision to adopt formally standards for “organic salmon” has upset many people committed to organic principles and The business of The Organic Research Centre is to develop and support production, including us. It is not simply that caged salmon so obviously do sustainable land-use, agriculture and not comply with organic principles; it is that this issue has emphasised just food systems, primarily within local how far away the “certified organic” market has moved from any notions of a economies, which build on organic deep, underlying, organic philosophy. principles to ensure the health and Some of the longest established organic producers have been the most wellbeing of soil, plant, animal, man and the environment. angered. Iain Tolhurst, a leading organic grower and one of the key figures in the founding of the modern organic movement in this country has written to us www.efrc.com and expressing the view that farming salmon “is akin to battery chickens." He www.organicresearchcentre.com believes that many small organic growers and farmers are upset by "this Patrons of EFRC appalling misuse of organic standards, on the basis that it is conning the Juliet Kindersley Peter Kindersley public and diluting the credibility of organic produce.” The Countess of March and Kinrara The Lord Poole Graham Pye Of course the Soil Association is not the only body to certify caged sea fish – Yvonne Pye Jan Sundt and our dismay is not aimed at them particularly - but their announcement has stirred up a lot of disquiet about standards and certification in the global Director: Lawrence Woodward OBE market that has been simmering for some time. For Iain Tolhurst, “the real Council of Management: issue is not so much about animal rights although this is important, but the Chairman: Christopher Bielenberg double standards that are in place here.” He compares how all certification Trustees: Alexander Bielenberg bodies are constantly tightening up the regulations affecting small - scale Roger Harrison Rachel Hood producers but readily use derogations, loopholes and ignore principles to James Skinner benefit multiple retailers and large-scale suppliers. Prof. Dr. Hartmut Vogtmann The fear amongst many people committed to the true organic approach – Research Director: Prof. Martin Wolfe producers, consumers and supporters –a list far longer than what Iain calls the Head of Operations: Dr Bruce Pearce “remains of the organic movement” is that the market is being grown on the back of production systems that are increasingly removed from organic Bulletin Editors and Designers: principles. Sadly, it seems, certification and regulatory bodies are aiding and Lawrence Woodward, Richard Sanders and Alison Walters abetting this in their own interest, to the detriment of genuine organic producers. Iain Tolhurst is clear “It is time to get the movement back on course and end Reg. Charity No: 281276 this selling out to the mass market, global economy idea. Something has to be ISSN 1367-6970 done about this fish thing - it really is just too awful, as it now sets a precedent for God knows what?” e u A leap too far – pushing standards over the edge On potatoes and their survival – Prof. Martin Wolfe s w w s i w Piling on the organic milk and Omega 3 pressure w Bedding in…bogged down – a year of OELS and HLS s i w Engineering Coexistence – GM crops w Farmer enthusiasm for evolving wheat h Local food at the crossroads t w Defra and the model response to avian flu w n w Letters w Bats and buffalo briefing I A leap too far – pushing standards over the edge Conventional farmed salmon is an abomination for ecological system”; it does nothing for fish nourishment animal welfare and the environment; and it is hugely – rations are poured in through the cage; and it does unsatisfactory in terms of food quality and health. As nothing for their well-being. the wild salmon symbolises all that is beautiful, The text continues; “Inputs should be reduced by reuse, spectacular and miraculous in nature; sea caged recycling and efficient management of materials and salmon farming represents that which is tacky, mean energy in order to maintain and improve environmental spirited and degrading about man’s relationship to quality and conserve resources.” Claims made for the nature. It also speaks volumes about our lack of feed conversion efficiency of salmon do nothing to offset understanding of wellbeing, the quality of food and the manifest failure to comply with this as the cage life and the essential dishonesty of our commercial contributes absolutely nothing to the fish’s production use of nature’s bounty. cycle. Even worse, all the food which the fish fail to eat So any endeavour to improve salmon farming should be on its way through the cage, litters and pollutes the applauded and to this end we welcome the Soil seabed and is joined by all the faeces which either festers Association’s work towards improving sea cage salmon below or is spread by currents to pollute further afield. systems. Which is why, although there are things in it we There is no recycling – developments are talked of where question, we have printed an article by the Soil other marine organisms could feed on this waste and Association on their work. then be harvested, these may exist on paper but are a long way from existing in the water – no (let alone But it is not organic, probably never will be and should efficient) management of materials and energy, and a not be labelled organic, whatever certification bodies and built in characteristic of degrading environmental quality regulatory authorities say. How can we say that? If the and resources. EU says it is, if Defra says it is, if the Soil Association Council says it is, if famous chefs and food writers say it Finally the Principle of Ecology states “Organic is, how can we say any different? agriculture should attain ecological balance through the design of farming systems, establishment of habitats and Leaving aside our perception of what has driven this maintenance of genetic and agricultural diversity. Those issue - the hidden agendas, the blind but wilful pursuit of who produce, process, trade, or consume organic markets, the lack of knowledge, the ignorance, the products should protect and benefit the common confused motives and taste buds – we say that because environment including landscapes, habitats, biodiversity, that is what organic principles say; clearly, without air and water.” ambiguity and repeatedly; sea cage salmon production is not organic. Not only does sea cage salmon farming systematically degrade the environment around it through its wastes, Let us examine this by considering sea cage salmon also through escapees, which is an inevitable and farming against the universally recognised “Principles of accepted part of salmon farming, it participates in the Organic Agriculture” published by the International destruction of genetic diversity in wild fish stocks. The Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) fact that it might be somewhat better than conventional which have been accepted by all of the world’s leading salmon farming does not change the fact that on this organic organisations, including the Soil Association. point too it does not meet the principles. The organic Principle of Ecology “roots organic Turning to the fish itself, The Principle of Fairness agriculture within living ecological systems ... “insists that animals should be provided with the production is to be based on ecological processes, and conditions and opportunities of life that accord with recycling. Nourishment and well-being are achieved their physiology, natural behavior and well-being.” through the ecology of the specific production environment. For example, in the case of crops this is the Salmon are territorial creatures; they essentially operate living soil; for animals it is the farm ecosystem; for fish as individuals marking out their own boundaries within and marine organisms, the aquatic environment.” which they live their lives. They do not shoal except when they feel threatened or feel they are in a dangerous Sea cage salmon (and cod) have no relationship to the environment which occurs at specific times when they aquatic environment other than the cage is suspended in migrate. Moreover their lives are led around different water. A cage hanging about in water is not a “living habitats using rocks, variety in sea or river beds and 2 www.organicresearchcentre.com July 2006 critically waterflow and currents. None of this happens in are not designed to eat plant oil; they eat fish oil; sea cages; indeed cages create all of the conditions that that is one of the things that makes them a healthy maximise stress and minimise well-being. They cannot food for humans. As with chicken when they are fed create their own territory; they are forced to shoal and inappropriately the fat content and ratios change adversely. ironically the method adapted to mitigate pollution – So on none of these grounds does sea cage salmon consistently strong currents – cuts across the basic need comply with the organic Principle of Fairness. Nor does to experience diversity in waterflow. it with the Principle of Care which states: "Practitioners And they migrate: this is one of the things that defines of organic agriculture can enhance efficiency and salmon and makes them the naturally wonderful increase productivity, but this should not be at the risk of creatures they are; their entire physiological system jeopardizing health and well-being.
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