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Home , Aldeyjarfoss, History of Iceland, Icelandic cuisine, Lundey

Reykjavik’s Old Harbour pages 4 - 15

West Highlights pages 22 - 60

The Iconic Jökulsárlón pages 76 - 79

www.icelandictimes.com Contents The Old Harbour in Reykjavik...... 4 Sægreifinn Restaurant...... 6 Sjóhatturinn Souvenirs...... 7 ICELAND’S tours ...... 8 Gallery Dunga...... 9 WHALE WATCHING TOUR Cinema No. 2...... 9 #1 Café Haïti...... 10 elcome to this new edition of the restaurants, shops and interesting events. Icelandic Fish & Chips...... 11 Icelandic Times - our largest yet. It Across the Faxaflói Bay, you can see The Exotic Flavours of the East...... 12 House...... 13 isW packed with ideas, information, history Akranes. We take a look at this town and its The Harbour Restaurant...... 14 and culture from the moment you land at many activities, where its Celtic history still Bring Out the !...... 15 Argentína Steakhouse...... 16 the airport. influences life there today. In Praise of Full-figured Women...... 18 This edition focuses mainly on the West Just as Spring is bringing new life to Vegetarian Delights...... 20 The Spirit of Iceland...... 22 and South West of Iceland. That includes the land, so we are seeing new initiatives Guðmundur Tyrfingsson...... 24 the Reykjanes peninsula on which the blossoming after the economic problems of Laxnes Horse Farm Riding...... 26 Álafoss Wool...... 28 airport is located, the capital, Reykjavik the last few years. That can only be a good The Ultimate Souvenir...... 29 and all the towns around the bays below the thing for the visitor and, with the help of Guesthouse Borg in Grindavík...... 30 Salthúsið Restaurant of Grindavik...... 30 West . this magazine, we hope you will enjoy that “Row for Your Lives!”...... 31-33 Reykjanes is one of the most popular resurgent growth. SaltyTours of Reykjanes Peninsula...... 34 ATV-Adventures in Grindavík...... 35 areas for tours and justifiably so, as there You can use the QR codes with a Stakkavík...... 36 Bryggjan Cafe...... 38 is so much of interest there. Its coastline is smartphone to easily contact any of the Ráin...... 39 wild and extreme in winter, with bountiful places you are interested in. (Scanner Iceland in easy reach...... 40-31 Sail with A Polar Pioneer...... 41 fishing but summer brings a completely applications can be downloaded free of Vitinn...... 42 different face to the peninsula. charge for all the major makes of phone.) A Forgotten Delicacy...... 43 Akranes...... 44-47 A whole section of Reykjavik has recently If you visit our website, you will find all the Geirabakarí...... 48 undergone a major transformation. Down links there, too, along with the articles in Brautin Car Rental...... 48 Borgarnes B&B...... 49 by the harbour you will find a group of both this magazine and earlier issues. Brúðuheimar Centre for Puppet Arts...... 50 fishermen’s sheds that have been transformed We look forward to seeing you and hope Living a Dream...... 51 Hraunsnef...... 52 into a bustling cultural community, with you enjoy both this magazine and your visit. West Iceland Tourist Information Centre...... 53 Gamlibær Húsafell...... 53 Publisher: Sales and Marketing: Marie Valgardsson Steindórsstaðir...... 54 Interland ehf. Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir [email protected] History Brought to Life...... 55 Golfing in the Dales...... 56 Postbox 514 [email protected] Stefán Valsson Fjöruhúsið...... 57 121 Reykjavík Elín Björg Ragnarsdóttir [email protected] Unique Adventure Tour...... 57 (+354) 534-1880 [email protected] Vignir Andri Guðmundsson Black & White or Colour?...... 58-59 www.landogsaga.is Article writers: [email protected] Langaholt...... 60 www.icelandictimes.com Lean Towards Nature...... 61 Andrew Scott Fortune Front cover photo: Hótel Ísafjörður...... 62 Editor and General Manager: [email protected] Golden Rocks Reykjanes Peninsula West Tours...... 63 Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir by Johannes Frank Vesturbyggð...... 64 [email protected] [email protected] www.johannesfrank.com ÓLAFSFJÖRÐUR Who’s Watching Whom?...... 65 The Icelandic Seal Centre...... 66 HÚSAVÍK Víðigerði restaurant and guesthouse...... 66 How to make use of QR- codes Riding the North...... 67 Consider Dalvík...... 68 Icelandic is one of the European root languages, Invigorate yourself in another world...... 69-71 Þingeyjarsveit County...... 72 like Latin. There is no ‘c’ or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, Romantic Hotel Bláfell of East Iceland...... 74 The Iconic Jökulsárlón...... 76 except in foreign words. However, It still Ice & Adventure Tours...... 77 contains some letters not found in most other Söluskálinn in Skaftafell...... 77 Prepare to be Impressed!...... 78-79 languages. This basic list provides a general idea Hvolsvöllur in Bloom...... 80-81 of their sounds, using familiar words rather than Goðaland Guest House in Fljótshlíð...... 82 Viking Tours of the Westman Islands...... 83 phonetics. Bjarkarhóll...... 84-85 You Can’t Stop Eating...... 84-85 Iceland Riverjet...... 85 Character Pronunciation Baked in the Hot Springs!...... 86-87 NEW 2011 Slakki Zoo and Play Centre...... 88-89 á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Grímsborgir...... 90 æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ NOW ALSO IN Surf Iceland’s South Coast...... 91 ð Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ Icelandic Times Frumskógar...... 92 Almar Bakery...... 94 þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ Höfðatún 12 • 105 Reykjavík ÓLAFSFJÖRÐUR The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily reflect those of the editor, publishers or their +354 534 1880 agents. Though the content of this issue has been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the [email protected] accuracy and completeness of its content. www.icelandictimes.com Copyright © April, 2011 Interland ehf. All rights reserved Ecolabelled printing BOOK ONLINE: WWW.WHALEWATCHINGHUSAVIK.IS CALL: +354 464 7272

2 www.icelandictimes.com Framleitt í Blokkinni - www.blokkin.is

ns_icelandic_times.indd 1 31.1.2011 14:17 huts and erect more modern and efficient buildings on the harbour front was, thankfully, rejected and TheA Bustling Old Scene of Art,Harbour and Shopping in Reykjavik a new plan was made instead to reinvigorate WHALE he old harbour in Reykjavik is getting day. There, you‘ll find amongst other things, the area. The twenty or so businesses owners close to being a hundred years old delicious restaurants, whale- and who are now down by the Old Harbour andT has seen many a ship come in filled to bird-watching tours, innovative and stylish didn’t think twice when the chance came to the brim with fish. With the advent of the designs, a documentary cinema hall, crafts open up shop in this unique location. Now it is a tight-knit community of WATCHING modern age, the fisheries and shipyard have and souvenirs and a cosy shop. But

in Reykjavik That was marvellous, we saw many whales and Make the most dolphins. of your day! Fantastic! Spend more time whale watching and less time Takes waiting. only 2-2 hours slowly been finding new homes. above all, you’ll find that the docks are full highly motivated individuals, where WHALE WATCHING TOURS Over the last few years, the Old of life again. everyone is working together towards a Harbour has been changing into a bustling The charm of the Old Harbour speaks common goal – that of making the Old APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEPT OKT We 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 neighbourhood where a group of industrious for itself; the ocean, the boats, the view Harbour a better place. You can almost offer free individuals decided to renovate the old and the smell, - not to mention the feel the sense of community in the air 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 pick-up fishermen’s huts to recharge this historic occasional old fishermen who still visit while you work your way through their 17:00 17:00 17:00 in the area, while honouring the old maritime their old home, sitting down for a cup of shops. They all seem like age-old friends 15 JUL – 15 AUG 20:00 20:00 Reykjavik traditions. Today, a stroll down to the Old coffee and sharing tales of the sea. who are more than willing to accept you area! Harbour could keep you busy for an entire A plan to tear down the old fishermen’s into their group for a day. PRICES Adults: 45 euros Children 7 to 15: 20 euros Free for children under 7 years 2 1. Volcano House

4 2. Krua Thai 1 PUFFIN TOURS* 3. Sjósigling 14 8 4. Icelandic Fish & Chips MAY JUN JUL AUG 12 15 7 5. Höfnin Restaurant 8:30 8:30 8:30 8:30 6 11 3 10 6. Café Haïti 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 5 9 13 7. Viking loft 12:30 12:30 12:30 12:30 16 8. Cinema 2 14:30 14:30 14:30 14:30 “Special Tours 9. Sjóhatturinn 16:30 16:30 16:30 16:30 offers the ultimate * Until 20 August 10. Sædís luxurious whale 11. Galleri Dunga PRICES Adults: 20 euros watching tour for 12. Sægreifinn - Sea Baron Children 7 to 15: 10 euros 17 people who want 13. Sushismiðjan Free for children under 7 years 14. Hamborgara búllan to make the most 18 SPECIAL 15. Life of Whales of their stay in Reykjavík” 19 16. Elding Say the keyword TOURS 17. Special Tours and save 20% of your 18. Puffin Scooters 19. Christina whale watching adventure: Call us +354 892 0099 HOW or book online Icelandic Times Offer. TO BOOK? www.specialtours.is 4 www.icelandictimes.com is where the Sægreifinn can take home. Garðar restaurant stands today. Word spread and and Brynja are more than happy to reserve more people asked for his grilled seafood, one and send it to your home country. They SægreifinnA Legend Down by the Docks Restaurant SjóhatturinnThe Little Shop with a Big Heart Souvenirs so Kjartan got rid of the boxes and became also search for quality bird wood carvings true legend and a trailblazer in and hired himself as a for the Coast a restaurant owner. ou will find the essence of Iceland in the tell our customers where they come from, and offer a selection that is hard to find Reykjavik harbour is the Sea Baron, Guard, where he would prepare during Sjóhatturinn (The Sea Hat) souvenir who made them and how,” says Brynja. elsewhere. aA retired fisherman and Coast Guard chef, their often long tours. Then he pioneered The Best Possible Materials shopY that actively scours the country in All wool sweaters in Sjóhatturinn are Other items include yarn, which a who came up with the recipe for what has marketing smoked eel to and, to Here you’ll always find a fresh assortment search of innovative and interesting crafts knitted in Iceland and each comes with mother of four from Northern Iceland been called the “world’s greatest lobster this day, he smokes his own eels down by of the best seafood, the selection depending and souvenirs straight from the source. a special label identifying who knitted it, makes from her own ’s wool; ceramic soup.” You’ll find his restaurant, Sægreifinn, the docks, the pungent smell forcing him to on the catch of the day. How does Kjartan Husband and wife, Garðar and Brynja, so you know you’re buying an authentic bowls made by the disabled; hand-made make sure he has the best ingredients opened the store just three years ago in the Icelandic wool sweater. Sjóhatturinn also Icelandic Santa Claus and trolls; jewellery available? He owns the fish shop across same old fisherman’s hut where Garðar used from the restaurant, so it’s a problem to bait lines. The hut’s original character and solved.Shortly after opening the restaurant, feel have been preserved and old fishermen Kjartan invented his lobster soup, which has who worked there frequently gather in the now become world famous for its delicious shop’s lounge, overlooking the harbour to flavour and taste. Kjartan sadly refuses to exchange tales from the sea. disclose the secret to his recipe!

Down to the Grassroots Garðar and Brynja’s ambition is to offer as wide a selection of interesting crafts and souvenirs as possible. “We leave no down by the old harbour in Reykjavík in a smoke them during the night. Later, Kjartan stone unturned in our search. We stop offers affordable, quality outdoor clothing made from lava rocks, fish skin products, green-painted, old fisherman’s hut, where opened up a fish shop, selling all sorts fresh at every single farm and craft house to from Icewear to keep you warm both here books, Icelandic cosmetic and health you can have your choice of fresh seafood fish products directly from the dock. see what the people are doing. We talk and at home. products and, of , sea hats. Animal barbequed on skewers or see if there is any Kjartan’s transition from fishmonger to old fishermen and whalers, farmers, collectors should enquire about the sperm truth to the bold statement about the lobster to restaurant owner was based more on painters, potters, knitters - everyone who Unique Selection of Bird Memorabilia whale teeth. soup. coincidence than anything else. One day, is creating something which captures the Sjóhatturinn offers a wide selection of bird standing by his boxes of fish packed in ice, essence of Iceland. We get right down to memorabilia – especially the colourful Have it Sent Home Smoking Eel All Night Long a group of foreign visitors asked if it were the grassroots and thus our products are as puffin. They have their own taxidermist If you’re short on luggage space or weight, In his early days, the Sea Baron, who is possible for Kjartan to prepare the fish for Aphrodisiac Soup genuine as possible. We want to be able to who supplies them with stuffed you or you forgot something, Brynja and Garðar better known as Kjartan Halldórsson, was them. Quick to spot an opportunity, Kjartan A true pioneer, Kjartan is always coming can send items to your home. Just send a fisherman who sailed from Reykjavik’s ran to the nearest shop, purchased a grill up new ideas. One is named Sea-agra Soup. them an e-mail and they will ship it to you. harbour during the 1950’s. Kjartan then and cooked the fish right there, inviting the Its key ingredient is the Sea Cucumber, “People have been extremely grateful for our decided to take a week-long chefs’ course visitors to dine inside his fish shop – which which according to Chinese folklore, has an services and wide selection. In fact, many aphrodisiac effect on those who eat it. There have expressed their regrets of not finding us is only one way to find out if that is true until the end of their trip when their funds – drop down to the legendary Sægreifinn were depleted,” says Brynja. So make a point restaurant at the harbour and enjoy! to visit Sjóhatturinn early on in your stay.

Sægreifinn Sjóhatturinn

Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík Geirsgata 5c • 101 Reykjavík +354 553 1500 +354 552 7777 [email protected] [email protected] www.saegreifinn.is www.sjohatturinn.is

6 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 7 such a foul odour that designers are in finding it would stay with you for days! The tour beauty in the mundane. guides include a marine biologist so you can And that’s just the tip of the Iceberg! Just Catch Your Own Unique Designs Down by the Old Harbour Puffin tours be sure to get full detailed information on Gallery Dunga simply stop by – and that should be easy since ne of the most peculiar and interesting you get a delicious serving of mussel soup the birdlife in Faxaflói Bay. fter decades of male-dominated All the designers have the common theme it’s only a few minutes stroll from downtown inhabitants of Iceland is undoubtedly included in the price. But the true reward presence, it was time to bring a that everything they create uses Icelandic Reykjavík. Othe colourful puffin and what better way to is seeing the puffin in his home territory on feminineA and artistic touch to the Old materials and motifs. You’ll find classy Being an open gallery, you’ll usually find get to know this ‘sea parrot’ or ‘clown of the . Taking care not to disturb him, the Harbour, which Gallerí Dunga does well. bracelets, purses and even neckties and a Inga busy by her ceramic ovens or painting ocean’ than to visit Puffin Island? And as ship captain turns off the boat engines when The gallery was opened by two female belt made out of fish-leather, which is, of detailed patterns on her original line of you surely know by now, Iceland was built you’re close up to the island, giving you entrepreneurs and includes innovative course, the perfect gift for the man in your ceramic products. on the fish and the ocean, so what better ample time to take in the sights and sounds designs which capture the details and way to experience what this country is all – and of course, unique photo opportunities. essence of Icelandic culture and nature about than to go out to sea, catch your own Naturally, the puffins are not the only through an artistic eye. fish, cook and eat them on the way back to inhabitants of the island; they share it with The gallery was opened last year by ceramic shore? It just so happens that Puffin and Sea the gannet, the largest seabird in the North artist Ingibjörg Klemenz, (Inga) and designer Angling Tours can provide you with both Atlantic, the Arctic Tern, which migrates Gunnhildur Þórarinsdóttir, (Dunna) who options. further than any bird on earth and the combined their nicknames to form the name ‘Dunga’. They took over from the fishermen Catch your Own Meal who formerly used the hut for baiting lines The sea angling tour is the perfect chance and turned it into a gallery to present a broad to experience Iceland’s oldest industry. On selection of elegantly designed clothing, life. You’ll find stylish and modern clothing Gallery Dunga an 18 metre fishing boat, you’ll set sail out jewellery, paintings, ceramics and various made from Icelandic wool; abstract and

to the Faxaflói Bay, looking for suitable other ornaments. In addition to their own portrait paintings; designer jewellery made Geirsgata 5A • 101 Reykjavík thriving fishing grounds and once there, creative designs, Inga and Dunna offer a from dried bladder-wrack seaweed. Seaweed +354 527 1200 you’ll bait your line and try your luck. In selection from ten fellow designers – all of jewellery may not sound like much on paper [email protected] fact, luck isn’t really a deciding factor since whom are female. but that just goes to show how adept Dunga’s www.dunga.is the tour has a 100% success rate so far. It’s just a matter of how many will be caught on the trip. especially for it and includes incredible during a busy day of exploring the city and The real beauty of the Sea Angling tour aerial footage and breath-taking ground harbour. The last showing of the day starts is that the skilled staff will help you prepare CinemaIn a renovated loft of an oldNo. fisherman’s 2 hut shots which make for a stirring experience. at 8 pm and lasts for two hours, making it a and cook your catch while you are sailing down by the Old Harbour, you’ll find one Cinema No. 2 films generally don‘t follow the back to shore. Few experiences are more of Iceland’s most original theatres, Cinema standard documentary traditions and focus satisfying than sitting on the deck of a ship No. 2. There you can enjoy dramatic movies, more on feeling and experience rather than cruising home, appreciating the beautiful made especially by Cinema No. 2, which simply showing and telling. view, while enjoying a meal that you caught capture Iceland’s nature and people on film. Other films cover topics such as the yourself. The people behind Cinema No. 2 are secluded and beautiful Þórsmörk, the great Free Mussel Soup Fulmar. You can count yourself lucky that Among the types of fish you can expect all veteran cinematographers who have Þingvallavatn lake, the unusually-shaped lava If you are in Reykjavik, the Puffin tour is, you stay on the boat because if you get too to catch are , , pollock, whiting, accumulated decades of experience and formations of Dimmuborgir and the history of course, a must. It only takes little more close to a Fulmar and its nest, he would spit sometimes even halibut and the hideous footage which make their pieces a delight to of volcanic eruptions in Mount Hekla since than an hour, is reasonably priced and a vomit-like substance on you which has catfish, which is actually quite delicious watch. A popular film is aptly named ‘The the late 1950’s. despite its fearsome appearance. Eruption!,’ which follows the world-famous The cinema hall used to be the loft of an Puffin and Sea Angling Tours’ vessel, volcanic eruption in Eyjafjallajökull. The film old baiting shack, but has now been restored ‘The Christina’, has an indoor dining area, is set to an atmospheric soundtrack composed to modern standards, while keeping the old toilet facilities and outside viewing decks. atmosphere alive. The hall has the original perfect way to spend an evening in a genuine All you need to bring is weather-appropriate creaky floorboards, the same unadorned fishing hut watching genuine Icelandic films. clothing and a camera. crossbeams in the ceiling and the staircase Cinema No. 2 can also arrange for special railing is made from rope from the original screenings for groups of ten or more. baiting shack. Hvalalíf Cinema No. 2 The cinema schedule should suit most

Geirsgata 11 • 101 Reykjavík Images by © Valdimar Leifsson visitors. During the winter months there are Geirsgata 7B • 101 Reykjavík +354 562 2300 shows every weekday, but from 15th May, +354 898 6628 [email protected] they begin at 12:15, focusing on shorter [email protected] www.hvalalif.is pieces, and making for a welcome breather www.lifsmynd.is

8 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 9 Icelandic grandmother ‘skyronnaise’ which also roasted her coffee beans, so together, we complement the fish and side dishes. The For Quality Coffee and Live Music have kind of de-mystified the process,” says The simple delights of a new Icelandic staff are happy to recommend which fish to Café HaÏti Methusalem. Icelandic Fish & Chips pair with which and several types of he explosion of restaurants, cafés, The marked difference in coffee quality and t was a busy Friday night at Icelandic Fish fresh fish are offered daily. and businesses in Reykjavik serving taste is a result of roasting in small batches, & Chips when I sat down with owner The onion rings, fried in spelt and aT whole range of exciting and exotic which Elda and Methusalem do right on the IErna Kaaber, curious to know how the idea , seasoned with just the right amount from around the globe is phenomenal. premises every morning. The whole process for the restaurant came about. of fresh herbs and crunchy sea salt, were As recently as 10 years ago, there were only takes about 20 minutes, which came a “We wanted to do an Icelandic version just...wow! A couple of fresh salads, mango comparatively few ‘foreign’ eateries in town bit of surprise. Good to know! of the British fish & chips, but prepared or mixed greens were delicately flavoured and many Icelanders were just waking up to That evening, Café Haïti was filled with in a healthy way and with all the purity of and perfect. a whole of international cuisine. live music from Brazil, to the delight of the Icelandic ingredients. We make everything The meal ended with the traditional Joining the café scene is the recently- mostly Icelandic clientele, some of whom sat right here from scratch and have replaced, and cream, topped with a mixed opened Café Haïti, one of the most friendly with a glass of wine or beer, others swaying for example, the traditional mayonnaise sauce—the simple delights of Icelandic and warm little coffee houses in Reykjavik gently in rhythm to the mellow voice of native with skyr and instead of deep fried chips, cuisine. they are hand-cut and oven baked with skins Located just across the street from intact,” Erna explains. Reykjavik’s old harbour, under the Alliance “We are in the planning stage of Française, the restaurant is housed in a

expanding our menu to include mussels, lovely old wooden building that somehow possibly, or a cold artic char salad and I breathes the harbour culture of times past. and the recipient of rave reviews. Brazilian singer Jussanam Dejah DaSilva. would love to try something along the lines Precisely as I took my first few bites of food, When I arrived late one Saturday night, I The walls are decorated with colourful, of Japanese sashimi—similar to sushi but La Vie en Rose, sung by Edith Piaf could be was met by the owner, a friendly and smiling naïve Haïtian works of art. A massive, without the ” says Erna. heard wafting over the patter of the nearly Icelander who goes by the unlikely name of gleaming expresso machine sits impressively “I’m also looking into finding more ways full restaurant. The timing was impeccable... Methusalem. His Haïtian wife, Elda, had on the counter and you know you’re in the to use hand-picked Icelandic moss, angelica Thank you, ma chère Edith. My already gone home, so unfortunately I missed right place! and seaweed and incorporating them into sentiments exactly! And thank you Erna, it my chance to meet her. other dishes on the menu as well” she says. was wonderful. I thought it was fascinating that Café Clearly, this is a woman who is not afraid Café Haïti Fish & chips Haïti actually roast their own coffee beans. of bringing traditional Icelandic ingredients

It had always seemed a complicated process, Geirsgata 7A • 101 Reykjavík into new spheres and is sincerely dedicated Tryggvagata 8 • 101 Reykjavik as presented by the big coffee manufacturers. +354 588 8484 to the celebration of food. +354 511 1118 “In Haïti, people often roast their own [email protected] There are 10 different flavoured skyr- [email protected] beans and Elda grew up with it. My own www.cafe-haiti.com based dipping , very aptly named www.fishandchips.is

10 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 11 a genuine Thai flavour, history and volcanic such as the fragrant and spicy basil that system in English, The Exotic Flavours of the East is a key element in many of Krua Thai’s German and Icelandic, will be displayed Krua Thai Restaurants Experience the Force of Nature dishes. Volcano House together with hands-on exhibits of lava erving traditional Thai dishes in three The Kopavogur restaurant, close to the Krua Thai is also a favourite amongst pening 7th May, 2011, The Volcano rock and ash, making The Volcano House a separate locations, the aromatic and Smáralind shopping centre in Bærlind serves visiting tour groups from Thailand to Iceland House will offer visitors a lively kind of ‘learning oasis’ for those on a quest Swarming at Krua Thai provide a the same delightful dishes and also provides a - showing the appreciation of the experts in Oand entertaining look at the geology of for knowledge. refreshing change from the ordinary. home delivery service. Thai food. Iceland. “We hope to eventually include an The popular downtown location, across Behind the concept are three brothers, earthquake simulator,” says Þórir, “where from the old harbour, with its white exterior Svavar, Þórir and Hörður - all of whom guests will be able to experience the feeling and bright, cheerful interior can lift your were looking for a change of direction in of earthquakes of different magnitudes on spirits if ever the weather in Iceland should their careers. When the idea of opening the Richter scale, bringing home the reality happen to get you The Volcano House presented itself, they and impact of any of the earthquakes that down. have rocked the world in recent months”. Superb volcano and related nature photographs by some of the best photographers in Iceland today will be exhibited. The gift shop will have a lovely selection of handcrafted items by top Icelandic designers and artists, whose work is related to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. Digital prints of the exhibited photographs

For people in the north, On 19th July 2011, the restaurant will there is now a branch in celebrate its 10th year birthday celebration. As , too. At all the a thank you to all their loyal patrons, along locations, a take-away with the festivities, they will offer a 50% service is available. reduction in prices on that day. In contrast to what When the restaurant first opened, many Icelandic restaurants visitors didn’t understand the cuisine but Krua are doing these days, Thai’s influence has opened up a whole range most of the ingredients of new tastes and flavours to the Icelandic are imported straight palate, enriching the culture and encouraging from Thailand to guarantee people to step out and try new dishes. Those who know real Thai food will be found in one of Krua Thai’s restaurants.

will also be available in the gift shop. In The Volcano House café, guests can enjoy excellent coffee, light refreshments leapt at the opportunity. and a selection of wines and spirits. Located across from Reykjavik’s old harbour, two excellent 40-minute films Welcome to the Volcano House! will be shown every hour, on the hour, in the in-house cinema, which seats Krua Thai up to 50 guests. The films cover two of Volcano House Iceland’s 20th century eruptions - the Tryggvagata 14 • 101 Reykjavík Tryggvagata 11 • 101 Reykjavík +354 561 0039 1973 eruption in the Westman Islands +354 555 1900 [email protected] and the most recent 2010 eruption of [email protected] www.kruathai.is Eyafjallajökull. www.volcanohouse.is A brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological 12 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 13 thickening but they material that breathes, are allowed to mature naturally. Every dish yet insulates, totally clearly demonstrates the prowess naturally. The wool is woven HöfninThe - Eating Harbour as an Experience Restaurant BringViking Loft Out the Vikings! that led them each to receive a gold award by a weaver in the old town celand is the land of the unexpected character and class, providing ‘Cordon Bleu’ in international competitions. celand, the Land of the Vikings. of Vík on the south coast. and contrasts. Who, for instance, would levels of cuisine at reasonable prices, Brynjar, The deserts are equally mouth-watering! Wouldn’t it be neat to dress like a The shawls complement Iimagine a high quality restaurant would his wife, Elsa and son, Logi teamed up to make I tried the carrot cake with IViking? It would be sensational at work the sweaters beautifully be tucked away on the harbour front in a a dining experience that is simply outstanding, cheese sauce, carrot sorbet and nuts. I’ve or at a party! and are available in white, converted fishermen’s building, just a 5 supported by excellent service from their tried many a carrot cake, some like lead There is only one shop that makes and black or stunning purple. minute stroll from the new glass and steel staff. This is borne out by comments left on and some better but this cake was like the sells authentic Viking clothing, located in A pendant, made Harpa concert hall? www.TripAdvisor.com. sorbet - it just melted in the mouth. one of the green-painted buildings at the from Icelandic pearl harbour, right in the centre of Reykjavik. - Djupalónsperlu These are sexy, raw clothes that bring completes the out the Viking in you! They have a style e n s e m b l e , all their own made with comfortable hanging on a fine material! These unique clothes can also leather necklace be made to order for children of all ages. and enclosed by a However, the Viking Loft also takes delicate silver wire the style of the Vikings and brings it up cage. to date in a line of fashionable women’s clothes: sweaters, shawls, hats, vests - truly one-off items. The Viking Loft Icelandic wool keeps you comfortable Geirsgata 7A • 101 Reykjavík at a constant temperature. The wool +354 862 1082 has two layers, one soft and so cosy [email protected] and the other, rougher and practically www.hotelshopping.com waterproof. Together, they provide a

A top award-winning father-son team of Cooking for Excellence As one would expect from such culinary chefs wanted to bring character to dining. The When two master chefs cook your dinner, masters, there is a wine list to suit each Harbour Restaurant embodies the spirit of you can be sure of something special. item on the menu beautifully, along with the Icelandic seafarers from whom the family Brynjar and Logi really deliver in beautifully a range of and teas to round out a descends, in a warm, comfortable ambience. presented dishes, meals that have been very enjoyable or dinner. Recognising the need for a restaurant in thought through, with each ingredient Throughout the summer months, tables downtown Reykjavik that brings together both designed to complement the others. are set up outside on the waterfront, for 50 Traditional Icelandic foods, cooked using people in addition to the 90 seats inside, so the ‘slow food’ method in a traditional style diners can enjoy the view of the harbour in a unique setting. This is the experience and watch as the sun slowly dips towards that they want to bring to everyone, old the bay, turning the mountains to gold and and young alike, individuals, families or filling the sky with a heavenly light that groups. matches the dining experience perfectly! I was treated to a salmon steak that The restaurant is open from 11.30 am was so tender and soft, a beautiful colour to 10 pm at night - or later, depending on complementing an absolutely amazing taste the diners. as the fish just seemed to melt in my mouth. Whether with seafood, fish, lamb, , Höfnin chicken or duck, the Brynjar

and Logi like to use are local organic foods Geirsgata 7C • 101 Reykjavík whenever possible. Their cooking style is +354 511 2300 also health-conscious. For instance, no [email protected] flour is added to the soups or sauces for www.hofnin.is

14 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 15 succulent and tender. Icelandic lamb is renowned for its unspoilt, natural growth as they roam unrestrained in ArgentínaA Experience to Remember Steakhouse the mountain wilderness pastures, also free from additives or hormones, colouring or enhancers – and that shows in its tenderness and taste! Also on the menu is a wide range of carefully selected fresh seafood, shellfish and lobster, to provide a choice for every palate. Char grilled to perfection, the steaks are complemented by the red and white wine selection from all the major countries and regions, or Champagne and sparkling wines, all served by attentive waiters and waitresses. The desert menu complements the main meal with its range of both Icelandic and international choices. There is no incentive to rush out once you have finished your meal. There are plenty of comfortable couches and chairs in which to relax and enjoy an after-dinner glass of quality cognac, whiskey, port or liqueurs. Argentína is also the most popular venue to buy cigars, though the restaurant is now a smoke-free area. Although the restaurant can seat up to celand is a land of secrets, waiting to be and spirits stocked at the bar in front of the 120 guests, including two banquet rooms discovered. For those who love good food, fire crackling in the hearth, relaxing in the that seat up to 16 and 20 guests respectively, Iwines and spirits, the only give-away is a flag comfortable chairs of one of the lounges, Fridays and Saturdays should be booked in hanging above two gates on a side-street just provides the perfect ambiance to the start advance. It is open Sunday-Thursday from off Laugavegur’s shopping street. Here, at of your evening. 6 pm to midnight and on Friday-Saturday the end of a dark hallway is a large wooden Steaks are the hallmark of Argentína’s from 5:30 pm to 1 am. (The closes door with an ornate handle that opens into cuisine. Icelandic beef is untouched by 90 mins. before closing time.) one of the most popular and respected restaurants in Iceland. Popular, that is, with people in the know! This hidden epicurean jewel has been sought out by visitors from all over the world for the past 22 years! Argentína Steakhouse won the coveted ‘Restaurant of the Year’ award in 2000 with good reason. You are not just offered a meal, as this is not an ‘eat-and-run restaurant’ but Aðalstræti 27 Hafnarstræti 104 Ísafjörður Akureyri an evening’s gourmet experience. No matter 461 5551 what your choice from the menu, you are guaranteed a meal to remember for its

presentation, flavour, texture and originality. SOUVENIR SHOP Laugavegur 1 Reykjavík However, the meal is the culmination of 581 1250

that experience. Before anything touches Hafnarstræti 3 Reykjavík e-mail: [email protected] your taste buds, your other senses are drugs, additives or steroids. They have been 551 1250 Argentína immersed in the rich leather and wood, the genetically unaltered over the 1,000 years

intimate lighting and atmosphere of the since the first settlers. Allowed to grow slowly, Barónsstígur 11A • 101 Reykjavík rustic, Argentinean-style decor, the music they have developed just the right amount of +354 551 9555 and the tantalising aromas. Enjoying a fat necessary for the meat to grill perfectly [email protected] drink from the large selection of fine wines and the muscles are finer, so the steak is www.argentina.is

16 www.icelandictimes.com BOOKINGS & INFO: Tel.: +354 464 1500 · www.gentlegiants.is · [email protected] Member of Icewhale · The Icelandic Whale Watching Association

In Praise of Full-figuredor the past 23 years, one shop in Reykjavik Womenunderstand their dilemma and who go out of has been changing lives. Women would their way to provide stylish and fashionable Fenter discouraged or shy or depressed only clothing for every occasion, specifically to leave with radiant glow of rekindled self- designed for the woman who has a larger size confidence a short time later. Others, clearly than chain stores stock. tired from a long search would reappear with a The style and grace of larger women has satisfied smile and a spring in their step. been a common theme in art and society Stórar stelpur was opened a quarter of a throughout past ages and Stórar stelpur century ago to meet a need that has only is bringing the concept up-to-date with grown over the years. As the fashion industry beautiful, well-designed outfits that help focussed on increasingly waif-like girls to restore those feelings of beauty, satisfaction model their clothes, women who needed larger and self-assurance that being attractively sizes were sidelined then left totally out of the dressed can bring. fashion world. Forced to resort to unflattering, Situated opposite the police station at old-fashioned styles, for many, their self- Hlemmur, Stórar stelpur opens daily between assurance and confidence to a daily pounding 11 am and 6 pm to offer women a fresh look or frustration and anger set in at not being able at life. to dress as they would like. Stórar Stelpur Women all over the world faced the same

problem: no shops catered to their needs. In Hverfisgata 105 • 101 Reykjavík Stórar stelpur, they are increasingly finding +354 551 6688 the wardrobe that they had only dreamed of [email protected] previously. They are cared for by staff who www.storarstelpur.is go whale watching!

TO THE EXCITING WORLD OF GENTLE GIANTS – HÚSAVÍK ICELAND Gentle Giants is located in the famous whale watching town of Husavik by Skjalfandi bay, on the northern coast of Iceland. We have a 98% success rate of spotting whales on our tours. Our staff has vast experience at sea, in particular around the Skjalfandi bay. We will do our best to 150 YEARS OF make your tour an unforgettable experience. FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY

ANNO 1861 18 www.icelandictimes.com the art displayed on its walls. Every six weeks or so, a new artist is invited to display and guests can buy the Vegetarianat Á næstu grösum Delights paintings right there. It is open from 11:30 n the house of the first restaurant in In many countries, wholesome vegetarian to 10 pm Mon-Sat and 5 pm to 10 pm on Reykjavik, built in the old style in 1903 on meals come with a high price premium - but Sundays. Ithe corner of Klapparstíg and Laugavegur’s not here! You can try everything, filling your In the Kringlan shopping centre is shopping street, is one of the country’s best- plate, for a very reasonable price - about the another branch of Á næstu grösum under known vegetarian restaurants. It’s Icelandic cost of a hamburger and infinitely healthier! the escalators on the ground floor by the name is a play on words, Á næstu grösum Even if you do eat a lot, the food is not heavy Útilíf sports shop. Here, it is more of a café (lit. ‘nearby herbs’). and leaves you feeling comfortable.The style, with pies and a different taste to much The restaurant is now upstairs and features children’s menu includes pizza. , of the food for variety. (It has the same a range of vegetarian foods for lunch, dinner too, are particularly appetising. The barley opening hours as Kringlan.)

or snacks. Being genuine vegetarian food, cake won the Best Health Cake Award the ingredients are sourced from different in 2009. Organic wines are available, to parts of Iceland, where possible. Slow complement the meal. cooking is the order of the day and the This is a fresh, light restaurant with a menu changes regularly with the different homey feel to it. You can relax and enjoy seasons and availability of ingredients. There your meal while others face the pressure of are always vegan (no , eggs or meat) shopping on the street below. A range of options available. Every Friday, the focus is coffees, natural teas and other drinks rounds on Indian- or Nepalese-style meals but there off the meal. is always a good choice available. An unusual feature of the restaurant is You can take a meal home! In the Departure Lounge at Keflavik International airport, the Nord restaurant offers meals to eat while you wait for your flight and will provide take-away boxes, so you can eat the healthiest food on the plane!

Á næstu grösum

Laugavegur 20b • 101 Reykjavík +354 552 8410 [email protected] www.anaestugrosum.is

20 www.icelandictimes.com ride for beginners or a multi-day tour for the more experienced rider somewhere in the far reaches of the Íshestar The Spirit of Iceland country. As one of Iceland’s oldest and leading tour companies, Íshestar puts great emphasis on its personal service, quality tours and safety while providing a wide variety of year-round riding tours for all skill levels.

For the authentic Icelandic experience this year, let Íshestar show you the way

Join one of Íshestar’s most popular tours The Lava Tour is an excellent ride for beginners wanting to get a feel for the . This tour suits ages 8 to 99. You will take a 1½ - 2 hour ride through ancient lava fields surrounding Íshestar’s Riding Centre. t can be said that the true spirit of a loyal, handsome and hardy. Can these Horse and Blue Lagoon Tour: After a country is reflected in the nature of its words not describe both horse and man? ride of 1 ½ - 2 hours you will be driven Inative animals. The spirit of Iceland can The Icelandic horse was part and to the fabulous Blue Lagoon, the perfect therefore be found in its own cherished parcel of Iceland 1,000 years ago and place for a soothing swim in the mineral friend and companion, the Icelandic continues to be an important part of rich waters, get a massage for those horse. Independent yet gentle, standing Iceland today. So your trip to Iceland will achy muscles or just relax and enjoy the strong in the face of the conflicting hardly be complete without experiencing facilities. (Blue Lagoon entrance fees are winds of adversity, hard working and a riding tour, whether it is an easygoing not included in the tour price.)

Íshestar

Sörlaskeið 26 • 221 Hafnarfjörður +354 555 7000 [email protected] www.ishestar.is

22 www.icelandictimes.com located departure points for tours to the south coast such as the Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Tour, the GuðmundurTravel & Tours—specialising in group Tyrfingsson tours around Iceland South Coast Tour, Landmannalaugar Tour, Founded in 1969, the trade-mark day tours, short and long tours, cultural Northern Lights Tours and, of course, the turquoise green buses of Guðmundur tours, highland tours and can be of service Golden Circle Tour. Tyrfingsson Travel & Tours are by now a with airport transfers or city transfers. very familiar part of the Icelandic landscape What’s more, GT Travel offers guidance in Hire a Coach for a tailor made tour and can be seen criss-crossing the country at all the major European languages and can For a truly endearing experience in Iceland, let GT Travel tailor-make a tour that encompasses an area of special interest to you and your group. History buffs will appreciate Iceland’s rich culture, folklore and Saga history. Bird watching enthusiasts can plan a guided tour around Iceland’s varied bird life. Coaches can be hired for virtually any occasion. Whatever your reasons for visiting Iceland, be it business or pleasure, you can be confident that GT Travel & Tours has your best interests at heart. Its fleet of nearly fifty coaches, amongst the newest in the country, can carry 9 to 62 passengers and are all fitted with either 2- or 3-point seat belts. Most coaches are equipped with air-conditioning, ABS brakes, comfortable reclining seats and footrests.

Finally, here is some recent feedback from just one of many satisfied clients Dear Madam, .. I was the group leader on a recent school trip to Iceland. We used a bus from your company and I would like to thank you for a wonderful service. Our driver’s sense of humour and relaxed manner with the staff and children was wonderful. He is a wonderful driver and showed concern and care for the group at all times... Best any given time year-round. arrange accommodation, activities to suit, wishes for the future and I hope to enjoy the Offering a variety of tours around Iceland coach service and meals. beauties of Iceland again soon. for groups of all sizes, this family-run All of GT Travel’s group tours depart company can arrange special interest tours, from either Reykjavik or other conveniently GT Travel and Tours has recently received the award of being one of Iceland’s strongest companies, achieving top marks in strength and stability.

Guðmundur Tyrfingsson

Fossnesi C • 800 +354 482 1210 [email protected] www.gttravel.is

24 www.icelandictimes.com Laxnesop stars to Presidents, politicians Horse to film The valleys Farm here are known for theirRiding and humour. It offers the excitement of stars, businessmen and tourists. What great beauty and diversity. Riding a horse riding out into a land and nature never QR Code foR SToRe Pinspires all these people from such a wide is just so natural in such surroundings, before experienced. It’s a lifestyle that loCaTIon variety of backgrounds and lifestyles to go with streams and rivers flowing down the might leave you envious - but glad you horse-riding at Laxnes? mountains into the valley, from bare rock took the time to indulge in. Welcome to Iceland´s most extensive outdoor equipment store.

Maybe you’re thinking of holidaying to verdant pasture. Tours with Laxnes Farm can be booked in Iceland this year and doing some horse Some people come for the morning or directly, where a minibus can pick you up ellingsen – Your first stop in Iceland riding but are perhaps concerned that afternoon, others come for the day. There at your hotel or as part of another tour, you’ll be put on an old nag that takes all is the ‘Day at the Farm’ that starts with such as the Golden Circle tours. Be sure your energy to get moving! a tour in the morning followed by lunch to ask your agent to book this experience Póri and Heiða, who founded Laxnes Farm in 1968, have built up a stock of over 100 good horses suited to every kind of rider and skill level. The family knows each horse, its temperament and training. They share their experience with a great sense of humour. Not just a family-run business, the farm is their home - a rustic, country style of living and enjoyment of nature, Icelandic horses and life itself. Laxnes is the epitome of country life at its best, where they offer top quality riding all year round. The horses are well cared for and well- shod and the staff take time to carefully choose a horse to match your experience. with another ride in the afternoon. For into your tour. HaRdY Each rider is supplied with all the riding many, the 2 hour ‘Laxnes Special’ tour, Fishing equipment necessary for safety and weather which has been running daily for 43 eqUipment conditions and receives basic instructions years, will be just right to include on their on how to ride before the tour starts. itinerary - but it will leave enduring and Laxnes Horse Farm Riding Icelandic horses brings a new warm memories! devold Laxnes • 270 Mosfellsbæ ColUMBIa ColeMan/CaMPInGaZ dimension to the sport. Being a smaller If you are planning an event such as Underwear OUtdOOr clOthing OUtdOOr gas +354 566 6179 cOOking eqUipment breed, they have smooth gaits and an easy an Incentive tour or a conference, Laxnes [email protected] www.laxnes.is disposition. They are very strong for their provides a great location for riding, REYKJAVÍK • Fiskislóð 1 • Tel. +354 580 8500 • mon.–fri. 10–18 • sat. 10–16 size and have good temperaments. followed by dinner, line dancing, music AKUREYRI • Tryggvabraut 1-3 • Tel. +354 460 3630 • mon.–fri. 8–18 • sat. 10–16 • ellingsen.is 26 www.icelandictimes.com of course, lasts till late same, even if I use the in the evening - and enjoy a wide range of same components, it never comes out snacks, cakes, meals* and drinks, including the same. I try to let the material I’m beer and stronger drinks which can be TheBy Palli the Knife Ultimate Maker Souvenir working with each time decide what the Álafossround a beautiful waterfall has formed Wool The Álafoss Wool and Sewing Shop taken onto the veranda or the balcony that n a quiet and secluded dale just outside obtained, of course.) He hand-sews each final product will look like, so I’m never a community epitomising Icelanders The Álafoss factory has been turned into a overlooks the waterfall and river, with the Mosfellsbær, you’ll find a narrow hardened leather sheath specifically to repeating myself and I’m always equally penchantA for creativity and innovation, art shop with a warm atmosphere and wide tranquil hills beyond. Istreet, bustling with creativity, centered fit each knife. The blades themselves excited with each knife I make. In fact, and design. range of interesting articles from past and *Meat dishes consist of fish, lamb or chicken. around the diminutive Álafoss waterfall. are either hand-made copies of Iron Age my friends tell me I never work, instead I The water in the river was formerly warm, present. They sell everything associated with The Kaffihús can accomodate groups of There you’ll find Palli the Knife-maker or designs from , just play all day long,” he says. giving it the name ‘Varmá’ (Warm River) wool, from the yarn to the beautiful, multi- up to 50. It is a hive of activity and a place to toiling in his workshop, making timeless Damascus steel, or factory-produced It’s best to phone Palli before visiting and in 1896 an enterprising farmer, seeing coloured finished articles, from patterns to meet people from the locality, staying open pieces of art in the form of knives. blades from other parts of . – he might be out looking for fresh its value, imported knitting machinery and buttons and zippers. Hand-knitted articles until 10 pm and to 11 pm Each knife, being unique, makes it the thus began almost 100 years of production from individuals all across the country hang on Thursdays-Saturdays. ultimate souvenir, a matchless item for of woollen goods on the site. Today, it is a side-by-side with machine-made woollen Every month, there the collector, the absolute tool of the thriving centre for artists in many fields. clothing - all at really good prices. Whilst the is a ‘Living Room hunter or simply a thing of great beauty. It’s less than 20 mins. from Reykjavik and women do their shopping, the men find all Concert’ and on 5th A visit to Palli’s open workshop in only 25 mins. to Þingvellir (Thingvellir) the historical and technical exhibits from past May, the Icelandic Álafoss, Mosfellsbær is an experience— National Park. The generations fascinating. However, if they want Eurovision singer, the blades, dangling from the ceiling, his Laxnes Horse Farm to keep their women happy, there are ranges Eyjólfur Kristjánsson, collection of animal skulls, the piles of and Halldór Laxnes’ of beautiful artistic jewellery, glassware, will be performing. exotic materials, the 75 year-old dentist house are only 10 pottery and silverware to choose from. You can find their news drill he uses for delicate carvings and the mins. away. Hótel on Facebook! view of the waterfall outside his window Laxnes and the Ásgarður Handwork Shop all make for a delightful visit. Fitjar Guest House Right across the road from the shop is an are a mere 5 mins. unusual workshop: the Ásgarður Handwork Shop. Since 1993, disabled artisans have produced a large range of handmade wooden toys and lifestyle items. They emphasise the development of simple, strong and beautiful toys, taking Icelandic wood and creating unique works that you can take home, based on Rudolf Steiner’s philosophy.

The Swimming Pool Recording Studio Another example of Icelanders’ creativity is the old swimming pool, originally built in 1931 but replaced by another and fallen into disuse. The building has been transformed into the state-of-the-art Sundlaugin (The Swimming Pool) Recording Studio, by the Sigur Rós band, and has been used by a steady stream of musicians since its Exotic Materials A Labour of Love materials. He has a good selection of inception. The knives are what make your visit A testament to Palli’s dedication to his knives available in his shop, but he worthwhile. Palli is a true pioneer and craft is his use of ancient brown coal, can also custom-make knives to your Kaffihúsið á Álafossi an exceptional artist who labours over his which he has to dry for six years. Palli specifications, which can be shipped to The Kaffihús á Álafossi is, in some ways, like craft for days on end. He uses materials exposes the brown coal to more and your doorstep, as well as those you’ll find an English pub. Unlike a pub, the coffee from all over the world and is particularly more oxygen by piercing a tiny hole on his website. house and restaurant is also an art gallery. fond of using Icelandic , sheep each day with a needle through an In addition to their private collection, and cattle horns and horses’ hooves, and insulating plastic covering. For those Álafoss Wool Store Palli the Knife Maker works by a different artist each month are wood from various types of Icelandic less patient, the brown coal, which is

displayed and are available for purchase Álafossvegur 23 • 270 Mosfellsbær trees. actually a fossilised tree, would dry too Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ from the Kaffihús. It is very child-friendly +354 566 6303 Palli is always looking for exotic fast, splinter and crumble. +354 566 7408 and a location where dogs are welcome. It’s a [email protected] materials to work with, including walrus Palli has made over 2,500 knives but [email protected] great place to sit on a summer’s day - which, www.alafoss.is and whale teeth, and ivory (legally never tires of his craft. “No knife is the www.knifemaker.is

28 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 29 made their living by the ocean and its bounty for centuries now and AGuesthouse Home Away From Home Borg in Grindavík are always glad to greet visitors. Grindavík is only minutes away from the celand‘s multitude of exciting attractions to offer travellers who are looking for a Blue Lagoon, 20 minutes from the airport and activities are enough to fill weeks of more up-close view of Iceland a modestly and 40 minutes to the capital. The multitude Ischeduling! Just be sure not to forget to take priced cosy homestay in the quiet town of geological and historical attractions of the a breath to imbibe the culture and meet the of Grindavík. They offer a family-suited Reykjanes peninsula are close by as well, of people! What better way to do that than to environment where visitors are offered course. set up camp in a homestay accommodation a personal and relaxed way of staying in Borg provides five double rooms and two in a traditional Icelandic fishing town. Iceland. There is a communal fully-equipped single rooms with made up beds. All the Guesthouse Borg in Grindavík offers you kitchen where you can cook your own meals rooms have a mirror, wardrobe, desk, chairs, exactly that chance. and prepare suited to your own lamps and night stands. Families travelling Husband and wife Björk and Magnús liking. Washing facilities enable you to clean with small children are offered special decided to renovate their three-story house your travelling clothes and in the communal children’s beds with children’s bed linen. living room you‘ll find a computer with free One of our rooms is a family room that up Internet access to plan your activities for the to five people can sleep in and is perfect for a following day. family with children. For groups of up to 16 While staying at Guesthouse Borg you‘ll persons the Guesthouse Borg is the perfect get the chance to see what life in a small option. fishing town is like. The town offers all Gistiheimili Borg the services you might require, including

groceries, restaurants, a bakery, gym, and Borgarhraun 2 • 240 Grindavík an outdoor swimming pool with hot tubs, +354 895 8686 to name a few. But most importantly you‘ll [email protected] get a chance to meet the locals, who have www.guesthouseborg.com

stove in the dining room that serves to warm and brighten those rainy days that are TheSalthúsið Art of Bacalao Restaurant of Grindavik sometimes a part of life in Grindavik. Aside from the á la carte evening menu, there is all it bacalao, salted cod, morue or Benefiting from its proximity to the more casual fare for the lunch crowd, a café saltfisk in Icelandic, the cod fish was sea, Salthusið’s á la carte menu features with free Internet access and a bar which is C popular with the locals on weekends. Salthusið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drive from the internationally acclaimed Blue Lagoon, is housed in a warm and inviting log house, made of solid Estonian pine. The restaurant, spanning 2 floors, is an elegant venue for banquets, parties, conferences and reception dinners ow for our ives ishing has always been dangerous surf or swept out to sea. Their lives were at accommodating a total of 200 guests. “ R Y Lfrom the RNLI in 1998.!” Every year on around the Reykjanes coastline. Until stake! Having reached the beach, the heavy The large premises can host conferences, the first Sunday in June, the country 1928, rowing boats were used, often in boat would have to quickly be hauled up to workshops and meetings in 3 dining F shows its appreciation to the fishermen terrible weather and high seas. Calm seas safety. For this reason, no larger boats could once so important to Iceland’s economy beautifully presented seafood that couldn’t rooms, each with its own separate sound with Seamen’s Day, a major festival that is turned into a churning inferno with waves be used. that it featured prominently on the be more fresh: whether it’s cod, haddock or system, wireless Internet and an overhead especially popular in Grindavik. taller than houses, within a matter of Icelandic Coat of Arms. The Salthúsið (Salt catfish or even lobster-it all depends on the projection system. As a stark testament to the dangers of According to Landnáma (the Book minutes. There were no harbour facilities House) Restaurant of Grindavik is the first ‘catch of the day’. Not a fish lover? The menu the sea, there are over 100 shipwrecks of Settlements), the oldest historical along the whole south coast, so fishermen restaurant in Iceland specialising in the also features items such as marinated fillet of Salthúsið Restaurant in the area. The rescue service is now 80 record of the country, two Vikings would have to wait for a particularly big lowly codfish, bringing it up to new heights. lamb, beef tenderloin and BBQ ribs amongst years old. In 1931, a breeches buoy was settled in Reykjanes in 934 AD. For Stamphólsvegi 2 • 240 Grindavík wave to take them to the beach, whereupon Once the staple of the poor, baccalao others. first used to rescue 38 crewmen from many generations, agriculture was the +354 426 9700 the cry, “Row for your lives!” would be heard has long been a celebrated ingredient in Linger over a glass of wine from Salthusið’s the French trawler ‘Cap Fagnet’. It was area’s main occupation. Fishing, though, [email protected] and a grim desperation took hold. They Mediterranean, African, and Caribbean extensive wine list while listening to the soft www.salthusid.is not until 1985 that the first lifeboat was was a key element in the survival of the could miss the beach, be overturned in the cuisine for many centuries. ambient music in front of the wood-burning introduced, followed by a second, bought people but, due to the lack of a harbour

30 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 31 and the rough seas, many lives were lost. canal and nine years later, the first harbour creatures around Iceland. He opened up the for both heating and electrical energy but, in visit to Iceland is complete without testing lava mountains, from In the 1500’s, salted fish was sold to was competed, built by hand with picks whole field of marine biology as a science the 1980’s, the water was found to contain its waters, and the range of skin products fishing to art galleries, from horse riding the British and Germans but the main and shovels, which enabled motorised in Iceland, writing numerous books. A minerals that had healing properties. No produced from them! to bike riding, from museums to volcano industry was dried fish, called ‘’. naturalist at heart, he loved nature in all its Reykjanes is very ‘young’ geologically tours, there is more than meets the eye Today, however, saltfish or Bacalao is a forms. Such was his impact that Iceland’s speaking and to get an idea of the power big industry here. It has become a national second research vessel is named after him. you are standing on, the immersive Earth delicacy of four countries: Spain, Portugal, Energy exhibit at the Art and Cultural Greece and Italy. Look Below! Centre in Grindavik opens up the earth A story is told of Columbus being When the Oil Crisis of the 1970’s struck, under your feet. shipwrecked in the Bay of Biscay, where the Lions Club of Grindavik took innovative he was rescued by a British gunboat. At action. They drilled for hot water just A World Apart this time, the British had stations in the outside the town. What they discovered and There are comfortable guesthouses and a Westmann Is., Grindavik and Snæfellsnes. developed has become famous world-wide as hostel in the town or, if you are camping There are speculations that he may have the Blue Lagoon. Not only did they discover or caravanning, take advantage of the new, stayed in Grindavik, where he heard about a source of hot water that could be tapped state-of-the-art campsite from which to

boats to be used - and a revolution in base while you visit all the sights that make when you drive down from the Blue fishing began. The town’s population has the area so interesting and unusual. After Lagoon to the town! risen to over 2,800 today, making it a a day’s sightseeing, the swimming pool Grindavik is a child-friendly town. thriving centre and Grindavik is always offers a great place to relax and chat with Even more, it brings out the childish one of the top three towns of fish landed. the local folk - before enjoying an evening’s curiosity in adults and children alike, entertainment at one of the town’s inns or leaving them with images and experiences Bjarni Sæmundsson restaurants. that will linger in the memory of a world Little was known about the different fish See what it is really like at a fishing so different and so fascinating that next Vikings who travelled to America…and species or their lives until the 20th century. port - and what it was like in the past time, you will book a much longer visit! the rest is history! Things were not always In 1867, a boy was born in Grindavik who at the Saltfish Museum, with its vivid would change that. Growing up, Bjarni peaceful with the British. In 1532, the depictions of the struggle for survival Grindavík first of numerous ‘’ took place in Sæmundsson went fishing with his father. against all odds. From shipwrecks to Grindavik, when Germans and Icelanders He studied and drew Icelandic birds, boiling hot mud pools and geysers, from Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík attacked the British. fish, animals, flora and fauna. He went sailing to craft centres, from lighthouses +354 420 1100 [email protected] In 1930, a stream from a freshwater pool to study in Copenhagen. Travelling on to crevasses splitting the continents, from www.grindavik.is to the sea in Grindavik was enlarged into a fishing trawlers, he catalogued all the sea birdwatching to quad bike tours across

32 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 33 up from underneath, an alien and foreign landscape for sure – hence the name. The tour also includes a stop at a AATV-Adventures Quad-bike Trip to the Moon in Grindavík SaltyTours of Reykjanes Peninsula hot spring which rumours say is haunted, an rom the looks of the many beaming heads out in one of 3 possible directions, lthough exploring foreign landscapes of having to arrange different modes of old lighthouse, a look into a volcanic crater reviews that SaltyTours has been depending on weather conditions and the through the window of a moving car transport for each activity, ATV offers and a chance to pick up a lava rock that feels Fgetting recently, it seems like this is one tour inspiration of your driver. After choosing a andA the occasional stop can be quite efficient you a pick-up at your hotel in Reykjavik actually still warm to the touch. The 6-7 company in Iceland that you might not want small tree from a local plant nursery, you and comfortable, there is really nothing or Keflavik and several options for further hour Volcanic Safari offers you the chance to miss. are off to carefully plant your darling little which compares to scaling volcanic craters activities the same day. A popular choice is to see all of Reykjanes’ most dramatic Operating comfortable coaches and mini sapling, somewhere in Iceland that needs and speeding across sandy beaches on a to make the most of your last day in Iceland locations in one exciting trip that includes buses, SaltyTours owner, Þorsteinn, is a true trees...;) ‘And every time you come back quad-bike! ATV-Adventures in Grindavík with a car waiting for you and your luggage the birdlife in the area, lunch down by the

in all weather but it is possibly even more beautiful on those days when the mist rolls over the mossy lava, adding even more drama to its already other-worldly persona.

Icelander, full of passion and details about to Iceland you can visit your tree’, says Iceland that he communicates in effortless Þorsteinn with a twinkle in his eye. English, full of wit and sparkle. With so many choices in Iceland all A long time resident of the Reykjanes vying for one’s attention, SaltyTours offer you t h a t at your hotel in the morning, docks in the fishing town of Grindavík, the Peninsula, Þorsteinn has conceived the Plant ‘Grand Volcano and Lava Circle Tour’ also And I leave you with this quote from one unique chance through then some adrenaline pumping multi-coloured landscapes of Vigdísarvellir Your Own Tree in Iceland Tour which has piqued my interest because it takes you of SaltyTours happy customers, writing in p r a c t i c a l a n d thrilling tours quad-biking, then winding up in the Blue and all of the activities in the other tours. been a huge hit among his fans. If you prefer right around the peninsula and finishes at Trip Advisor, who sums up his experience on the volcanic landscapes of the Reykjanes Lagoon while ATV safely stores your a bit of spontaneity in your travels, this tour the Blue Lagoon, another favourite spot of this way: peninsula. luggage before finally heading off to the Safety First unquestionably meets the criterion. The tour mine. Reykjanes Peninsula is enchanting “Considering that the Reykjanes area Being the ‘youngest’ part of Iceland and airport in the afternoon. ATV places special emphasis on safety and is between the international airport at the upper-most part of the North-Atlantic quality equipment in their tours. All of Keflavik, and the city of Reykjavik, most ridge, the Reykjanes peninsula is abundant Alien and Foreign Landscapes the tour guides are required to complete visitors tear straight through it and have with geological wonders and splendid The tours include the compact Panorama strenuous safety and first-aid courses and the no idea how incredibly interesting it is. As landscapes, including immense lava fields, Tour, which takes you up a hard mountain company works closely with the local rescue far as I’m aware, SaltyTours offers the best hot springs, multi coloured landscapes and, path for some splendid views and a ride team to map out all possible safety scenarios. means of exploring the area with someone the most famous of all, the Blue Lagoon. All along the coastline with stops at the various All the quad-bikes are specially built for two who is passionate about the place and can of which you can explore in the wide array of shipwrecks. The Lava Beach Tour goes persons, which means both riders are fully communicate that to his clients.” tours ATV-Adventures has on offer. further into the culture and history of the insured. area in two hours and explores the lives of SaltyTours ATV-Adventures Make the Most of Your Last Day in the local fishermen in the past. The Trip to Borgarhrauni 1 • 240 Grindavík Iceland the Moon tour takes you for a three-hour Tangasund 1 • 240 Grindavík +354 820 5750 The practical aspect of ATV-Adventures is ride on top of a relatively recent lava field, +354 857 3001 [email protected] the ability to combine excitement with the so recent that vegetation has yet to get a [email protected] www.saltytours.is often tedious logistics of travelling. Instead foothold on it and smoke actually steams www.atv-adventures.com

34 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 35 boiled. This is a great visit for everyone who loves good food and would like to see how it gets to them. The StakkavíkWhere Does That Fish Come From? reputation for freshness that Stakkavík he rougher the sea, the better the deciding their own fate! Following the video, possesses cannot be beaten! fishing! Around the Reykjanes visitors can see how the fish is prepared And those rough seas? You can see actual peninsulaT are some very rough seas. The once it is landed from a special platform film that will forever make you thankful number of shipwrecks is testament to that overlooking the processing area, where it for the fishermen! Even though a well-built fact! However, you can take a trip to see how is boned, prepared and packed, ready to be it’s done without leaving the comfort of your flown out on the afternoon flight daily to chair - and relish the freshness in the most Europe and the USA, where it can be on

exquisite seafood soup you have ever tasted! Stakkavík is unique in showing visitors all the steps from the time the fishing boat prepares to leave harbour to catch the fish until you eat the freshly-landed and freshly- cooked catch in the form of a delicious bowl diners’ plates for lunch the following day! harbour has been constructed, those seas of seafood soup. In their Grindavík visitor The difference between the fresh fish and may seem like scenes from ‘The Perfect centre, you can view a film in the comfort frozen fish is in its quality, texture and taste. Storm’ outside its walls at times! of their dining lounge as you enjoy that Once you have tasted the fresh fish, you will Stakkavík soup! This video is fascinating for all ages be hooked! as it shows all that goes into the fishing, Not only do you get to see the whole Bakkalág 15b • 240 Grindavík from start to finish. On board, you see the process, but you can learn about the different +354 420 8000 lines being prepared and baited. You see ways to cook the fish that make it so full of [email protected] scenes filmed underwater, showing the fish flavour, whether fried, steamed, baked or www.stakkavik.is

36 www.icelandictimes.com Spaksmannsspjarir • Bankastræti 11 • 101 Reykjavík • Sími 551 2090 • spaksmannsspjarir.com • Opið mán-fös 11-18 og lau 11-16 you might well imagine ways to prepare it that there is always more to locals and visitors alike. yourself in a museum, however small. choose from than you are able to eat! The personalised service and well-stocked Owners Aðalgeir and Kristinn, happen In its 23rd year and recently renovated, bar complements the chefs’ works of culinary BryggjanGrindavik’s award winning cultural Cafe café to be big Beatle fans, even hosting a special RáinSalmon in every possible form this elegant restaurant has the cosy style art that would not be out of place in any of rather nondescript building sits at The attractive little café, which musical evening last October in honour of here are many different ways to prepare of the 1930’s ‘Golden Years’ and all the the world’s top restaurants. the edge of the pier in Grindavik. celebrates the life and times of Grindavik’s John Lennon’s 70th birthday. But culture is salmon and the experts are only 10 modern trappings needed for conferences, You could get so lost in your enjoyment of Outside,A piles and piles of black fishing 500 year-old fishing industry, is decorated culture and the Beatles have left their mark minutesT from the International Airport. celebrations, events or shows. Its windows the meal that, if you’re on your way home, nets lay heaped on the ground, waiting very much as you might expect. From the in people’s hearts and minds even here in Ráin, in Keflavik town, are specialists in this offer a restful, panoramic view of the ocean you could miss your flight! However, you their turn to be repaired. ceiling hang all sorts of artifacts including Grindavik. delicious fish and have so many different to the horizon, making it a popular venue for would find it worth the sacrifice! After all, A quick walk around the building reveals a 150 year-old ship’s rope and pulley and Bryggjan is an ‘early bird cafe’ opening home is always there, but meals like this are a large repair shop for trawler fishnets that the walls are adorned with photos of at 8:00 in the morning and serves a hearty an dining experience you would be hard- pressed to match.

Ráin Restaurant

Hafnargötu 19 • 230 Keflavík +354 421 4601 [email protected] [email protected]

can hold up to a thousand tons of fresh fish. retired fishing vessels that once played a ‘fisherman’s breakfast’. For lunch there are Spread out on dry land these nets are an part in Grindavik’s history. There is even lamb and soups with as incredible 700 meters long. In the front, a small bookshelf where locals can sit and well as excellent espresso, cappuccino, large glass windows and wooden tables read about the history of their village. regular coffee and homemade cakes. On and chairs on the terrace give away the If it weren’t for the upright piano in one a sunny day, the terrace, which looks out secondary purpose of this building- the corner, a guitar in another and an almost over the harbour is a pleasant spot to stop home of Bryggjan Café. life-size photo of John Lennon on the wall, for lunch or afternoon coffee and breathe in the fresh sea air. And if you are really lucky you just might be there in time to watch the passing fishing vessels as they arrive to offload their catch.

Bryggjan Café

Miðgarður 2 • 240 Grindavík +354 426 7100 [email protected] www.kaffibryggjan.is

38 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 39 headquarters in the town. Today, the team Mia Café provides light refreshments and building in the centre, houses the council adversary at such times! has one of the best-equipped lifeboats in the excitement with live broadcasts of sporting office, library, bank and apartments and the The view from the land can be both thrilling country, always on stand-by in the harbour. events and Shellskálinn has hamburgers and recently-renovated Samkomuhúsið is one of and memorable, however. After all, don’t Iceland in easy reach Sandgerði’s history also features fights other snacks. the best community centres in Suðurnes. you want to visit Iceland because you want of another kind, as it has been the scene of Speaking of sports, Sandgerði has That sense of community is fostered by the to experience something different? skirmishes, fighting and, in 1551, the first excellent facilities with Reynir Football well-designed parish hall, a music school, battle using firearms. A famous folktale Club providing a natural grass pitch, along kindergarten, primary and secondary about Rauðhöfði has its roots in Melaberg. with a clubhouse where a swimming pool, schools. A new camping area with electricity Sandgerði today, however, is a vibrant hot tubs, steam bath and sun beds provide for campers is open from 1st April to 30th town with art and culture high on its list. a range of options for both exercise and Sept. A sculpture at the harbour celebrates the relaxation. The Golf Club offers a 9-hole An ideal time to visit Sandgerði is on centenary of the motor-powered fishing boat course that is often ready to play a month arrival at the airport, as it is so close by but industry in Sandgerði. Ný-Vídd is an art earlier than others in Spring. a visit at any other time will also provide workshop where aspiring artists of all ages The town’s other facilities are no less you with a memorable experience. Perhaps, produce works of art in clay, glass, paint, impressive for a small – but growing though, a visit by boat in a storm would not wood and other materials. Close by, Gallery – community of 1,760. Varðan, a new be so advisable! The sea here is a powerful Listatorg in Vitaborg has a display of works produced with local materials and a shop where local items can be purchased. The Nature Centre brings together man and his relationship with nature in Sail with A Polar Pioneer an amazingly realistic 4-part exhibition ean-Baptiste Charcot was born to a leaving a large inheritance, allowing him to Iceland and a memorial service was held in featuring a large number of preserved famous French neurologist in 1867. leave medicine behind for a life of scientific Reykjavik for them. birds of many species and animals such as AlthoughJ trained as a doctor, adventure investigation and sea-faring adventure. He You can get an idea of what it was like mink, foxes, seals, and a walrus on show in and exploration were in his blood. His first married the granddaughter of Victor Hugo, on the ‘Pourquoi Pas?’ at the Suðurnes seashore, fish, bird and freshwater settings. voyage was when he was 3 years old. He took but it did not last and she divorced him on University Research Centre in Sandgerði, Scientists use the sea water, filtered through an old soapbox, scrawled “Pourquoi Pas?” on the grounds of desertion while he was away. where part of the ship has been reconstructed the lava for their experiments and research. its side and set sail - in a pool in his garden! He had planned another trip to the Arctic with many items from both the ship and The centre also lets you experience the but news of the missing Swedish explorer, life and times of French explorer Charcot, Nordenskjöld, led him to head south whose ship foundered close to Borgarnes as instead. He charted more than 600 miles he was returning to France in 1936, with of new Antarctic coastlines and islands. ust 10 minutes from the Leif Eiriksson The town’s relationship with the sea has the loss of all but one man. His research is A second, equally successful expedition International airport. You probably saw never been a cordial one. It is a dangerous now carried on by a team from the Suðurnes followed. Scott of the Antarctic nicknamed theJ collection of buildings clinging to the coastline and many a ship has foundered University at the centre. Parties of excited him, ‘The Gentleman of the Pole’. coastline as you came in to land, yet you there. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, schoolchildren also learn about sea life. This After the 1st World War, he set out, really had no idea of what lay there. over 1,300 lives were claimed by the sea is really worth a visit! sailing north to lead numerous expeditions A little way out to sea lies a rich fishing off a nearby headland, Rosmhvalanes. As a After visiting the town, your appetite can to the Færoe Islands, Jan Mayen Island, ground where Steinunn the Bold, the cousin busy trading post, it received many vessels be assuaged at the Vitinn restaurant, with its Iceland and . The ‘Pourquoi Pas?’ of the first settler, Ingólfur Arnarson, used but in January, 1799 a flood devastated it. beautiful ambience and whilst the Mamma was a scientific research vessel with a library to fish and here begins a dramatic history The ‘Jamestown’, one of the largest English and three laboratories on board. that belies the calm façade of Sandgerði. sailing ships of its type ran aground in 1881 The ship stopped often in Iceland, where That rich fishing means that the harbour and its valuable cargo of high quality timber Charcot made many friends, including is busy – very busy – when the flotilla of was used to build houses in the district. Efra the eminent Icelandic naturalist, Bjarni Charcot’s personal belongings on display. small fishing boats return. In fact, it is one Sandgerði, the oldest standing building in Sæmundsson. In fact, when the ‘Pourquoi This is a dynamic display that really gives of the busiest harbours in the country and the town, was one. It has recently been Pas?’ put into Reykjavik to repair its boiler, a clear impression of life on board the ship it is this relationship with the sea that forms restored by the Sandgerði Lions Club. Charcot and Bjarni had a meeting that was and is well worth a visit to the centre, close the foundation of its history. Huge rollers often batter the coastline and It was fortunate he tested his boat there, as it to prove to be their last. to the harbour. As you drive into the town today you as recently as 1928, the trawler ‘Jón forseti’ sank, leaving him wet but undaunted! The ship set sail on the 16th September, Fræðasetrið Sandgerði can see a dramatic sculpture by Steinunn ran aground and many drowned. The He found French society to be too 1936, heading for France when a sudden,

Þórarinsdóttir depicting three stainless steel following year, however, the town fought superficial for him. In 1892, aged 25, he very violent storm drove them off course, Garðvegi 1 • 245 Sandgerði waves, representing the timeless ocean and the back with the formation of the Sigurvon bought his first boat, sailing north to the across the Faxafloi Bay onto the rocks +354 420 7555 rusting figure of a man, cast in iron, a reminder Rescue Team and the introduction of its first , Hebrides, Faroes and Iceland. off Mýrar. Of the crew of over 40 souls, [email protected] of the transient, perishable nature of man. lifeboat – still to be seen in the rescue team’s His father died the following year, only one survived. The news shocked all www.sandgerdi.is

40 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 41 In some countries, is the low level of when travelling in a group, you may feel as dioxin contamination in Icelandic waters. if you are being herded like cattle so it is a The use of cod liver for consumption has, From Famished to Feasted in 10 minutes Vitinn great relief to visit a restaurant like Vitinn, ACanned Forgotten Cod Liver, Foie Gras of the Ocean Delicacy in fact, been discontinued in many fishing ou’ve just landed at Iceland’s be enjoyable at any time but its owners, where large groups can be accommodated lthough many of the Icelandic used for both consumption and heating and jurisdictions due to dioxin contamination, international airport and your Stefán Sigurðsson, the restaurant’s chef, but each one is treated to personalised traditional courses originate from thus has undoubtedly played a vital role in as the cod processes such undesirable stomachY is rumbling! It’s at least an hour and his wife Brynhildur Kristjánsdóttir service and warm Icelandic hospitality. For feasibleA means of preservation and efficient the , which is why the materials through the liver, whereas the before you can settle into your hotel in have surrounded the diners with antiques those used to the smog and pollution of the use of raw materials, some of them just people at MC09 are particularly proud to Icelandic waters remain relatively pure Reykjavík – and longer before you can and relics from both the area’s agricultural cities of the world, the freshness of the air happen to be delicious. One of them is the present their product at this time. and well below the international health find somewhere to eat. What you need is and fishing past to make this a unique and and the relaxed lifestyle of this coastal town unique canned cod liver, which has been “Many Icelanders had, in fact, forgotten limits. The cod liver comes fresh off the a good meal – and now! You could eat a fascinating experience. add to the pleasure of being able to unwind called the ‘Foie Gras of the Ocean’. about the canned cod liver and had stopped docks from the historic Icelandic fishing in comfortable surroundings and enjoy a meal without stress or pressure. Open for lunch all the year round, from May to September, Vitinn is open all day, too, so diners can enjoy the garden, or watch the surf as the boats come in to the harbour, laden with fresh fish as the sun gently dips to the horizon in the light evenings. The town is worth a visit and has its own blend of unique features and a fascinating history. After taking a stroll, stop back in at the highly-praised coffee house in Vitinn for a snack of cakes, waffles and specialties from the Icelandic home-baked cuisine, including an inexpensive lunch. After that, you’ll be ready to face the challenges and excitement that awaits you with a fresh perspective of what Iceland has to offer you, along with a very pleasant memory of your experience on the wild coast of Sandgerði. standard snack to be found the world over The menu and the presentation of each or… course show off at its best. A short, 10-minute ride will bring you Besides seafood, there is also a delicious the quickest introduction to the Icelandic offering of Icelandic specialties such as speciality cuisine – and the most delicious lamb steak. However, it is not restricted to For centuries, Icelanders have been quite eating it, but now it’s entering the market village of Sandgerdi and neighbouring relief to that rumbling stomach that you classic Icelandic foods alone but provides resourceful in finding ways of utilizing the very successfully,” says Guðmundur villages where the fishing industry has could imagine that’s nonetheless easy a truly international variety. Vitinn is the wealth from the ocean to the utmost to Davíðsson, manager of MC09. “Part of the been accumulating experience and on the wallet! Whether you are alone or only restaurant in Europe that provides get them through harsh times and often reason could be that we’re so used to getting knowledge for centuries. with a large group, Vitinn (Lighthouse) Rock Crab fresh from the sea. Rock Crab is unforgiving climate conditions. Building on fresh fish products right from the docks that The canned cod liver comes in two restaurant can satisfy your appetite with a a delicacy found only on the US coast and that legacy, fish processing company MC09 we tend to overlook the processed goods. varieties here in Iceland, either smoked culinary and visual feast that sets the bar in Iceland. in Sandgerdi has recently started producing But the fact of the matter is that the canned or natural, depending on the markets’ for quality, taste and ambiance. Children are not only welcome but are a delicacy which some here in Iceland had cod liver is a completely unique product and preference, and can be bought in most Set next to the lighthouse, right by the provided with a special reward when they long ago forgotten – canned cod liver. a welcome addition to the fresh materials. stores in Iceland. Also look out for exciting harbour where the fishing fleet lands its finish their scrumptious lunch from the Its taste is quite distinct and considered a starters with cod liver in Reykjavik’s catch, Vitinn prepares fish that could not children’s menu. A Vital Role in Iceland’s History delicacy by connoisseurs in many European seafood restaurants. be fresher! The rich coastal fishing ground Just married, celebrating an anniversary, Cod liver is particularly rich in vitamins and countries, but our ambition is to introduce has been the source of delicious fish since special event, just looking for something Omega-3 unsaturated fatty acids, to which it to new cultures and markets,” says Vitinn Restaurant MC09 fiskframleiðendur the days of Steinunn the Old, cousin of the distinctive for your friends or a group? some have attributed the survival of the Guðmundur. first settler in Iceland, Ingólfur Arnason in Vitinn makes a celebration to remember Vitatorg 7 • 245 Sandgerði Icelandic settlers and their descendants. In Fríkirkjuvegi 3 • 101 Reykjavík the 800’s. for a lifetime for groups with its service, +354 423 7755 fact, some claim Icelanders’ high longevity Pure Waters and Fresh Materials +354 511 5999 Eating in this restaurant, with its warm supplied by waiters and waitresses dressed [email protected] stems from eating so much fish and fish liver. One of the things which make the cod [email protected] wood panelling and cosy atmosphere would in national costume. www.vitinn.is Since The Settlement, cod liver has been liver from Iceland a particular rarity today www.mc09.is

42 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 43 to relax and let the stresses of everyday life and social conditions be soothed away by the gentle sounds of in and around Akranes. A seafaring the surf. section shows an 1874 fully-rigged rowing Many people like to swim every day - boat, models of other boats and ships, though most use the swimming pool and along with interesting items from the take advantage of the hot pots, also. The Cod Wars with the British. The largest pool is open to all and is a good place to exhibit won’t fit in the museum: the cutter AkranesA fun place for adults and children alike

t’s time to get out of Reykjavik and see The mountain on the right, Mt. idea to plan a stay, if you have time, in one outdoor entertainment for the whole meet people and discuss everything under Sigurfari, built in 1885 is a twin-masted what the rest of the country has to offer. Akrafjall, is a popular place to climb, as the of the guesthouses or on the well-equipped family - and a grill to cook a meal on the sun - literally! ship on display outside, though there are IAcross the bay, Akranes beckons to you in view is quite spectacular in all directions. campsite - a popular place in summer for after you have built up an appetite. While Akranes’ Museum area is an unusual hopes of raising the capital needed to put the sunlight. If you’re travelling light, the Be sure to sign your name in the Visitors’ visitors from many countries to camp the children play in the playground, you grouping of Folk Museum, Sports it under cover and protect it from the easiest thing is to catch a regular city bus Book when you reach the top! (It is an under the midnight sun. could join a football or volleyball . Museum and the Mineral Kingdom. violent Icelandic weather. The only ship of that will take you there for a few euros. easy climb taking the route from the water Sports and pastimes of almost every Be warned - football is the town’s sport and The Folk Museum houses a collection of its type in Iceland, you can go on board If you’re driving, it’s just as easy. Head works to Háahnúkur. Marked maps are description are available in the town. There several international players now playing exhibits covering farming, housekeeping and get the feeling for what it was like to out of town, taking the ring road north. sail in. There is a wide range of exhibits After passing under Mt. Esja, you come that anyone interested in the past will find up to the tunnel. You have a choice: speed fascinating. The Sports Museum features or sights. If you want to get there quickly, memorabilia from Akranes FC and from dive into the tunnel; but if you want to different Olympic disciplines. The Mineral enjoy the sights, turn right and take the Kingdom contains the country’s largest scenic route to Kjós. collection of rocks, minerals and fossils. Passing the farms, you can’t help but Some are cut and polished to present a enjoy the beauty of the countryside. different perspective and many may be Surrounded by summerhouses is Lake handled by visitors. Meðalfellsvatn. If you enjoy fishing, you Over the past few years, efforts have can buy a license, sit down and wait for been made to not only preserve the past the fish to bite. Or, you can continue but to present it in a living way. Old down Hvalfjordur. At the bottom of the houses connected to the history of the stand the spectacular Falls, town have been moved to the museum considered the most beautiful waterfall in available at information centres and petrol is the excellent Garðavöllur 18-hole golf in different countries began their careers area and renovated in the style of their Iceland. At a height of 198 m., it is also stations.) Watch for the gulls, as this is course on the edge of the town. Renowned here! day. For instance, the minister’s old house, the highest. home to the one of the largest colonies of for its beautiful surroundings, it is popular Iceland doesn’t suffer the sweltering Garðahúsið, was the first concrete-built Hvalfjörður was, in times past, used black-backed gulls in Iceland. with golfers with its roofed practice stalls, heat, overcrowded beaches and polluted house, not only in Akranes but in the for whaling and you pass the old, disused Bird life in the Akranes area, both along special practice greens - and a course that is seas of the Mediterranean but Akranes whole Nordic region. whaling station on your way around the the seashore and inland, makes it a popular a surprise even for experienced golfers with has a beach where the children can build Each summer, everyone enjoys the fjord and the huts left over from World choice for birdwatchers. The casual one of the longest fairways in the country, sandcastles or look for shells or colourful celebrations that make the days so much War II, when convoys used to gather here. observer doesn’t even need binoculars, to dotted with sand bunkers - beware! stones to take home. Here, the water is fun - whether the fish feast, the doughnut- Arriving at the roundabout, you will meet enjoy them. Next to the course is the Garðalundur comfortably warm to swim in and it’s baking competition, the market or Irish those who chose the tunnel route. There is a lot to see and do, so it’s a good recreational area, where you will find clean. Langisandur (Long Beach) is a place days.

44 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45 Called ‘Kling kling’, it is based on Davíð Over time, the two Stefánsson’s poem. That performance will ethnic groups integrated. A genetic test of be continued from September through the the current population showed that 63% TOSKAThe Akranes School of Music winter. Ahe Blend Irish Festival on of the firstTwo Cultures of the women are descended from Celtic hen it was formed in 1955, the The group has travelled extensively, weekend of July in Akranes is a forebears and 20% of the men. Music School had just 23 students. bringing their style and genre of music to reminderT of the heritage of this part of The Celtic Christian Queen Auður sailed SinceW then, it has grown tremendously, a much wider audience than just Akranes. the country. Iceland, the only nation to Iceland in 895 and settled in Hvammur í drawing students from all over the area. There is a lot of talent in and around to be formed during the Viking period, Dölum, near Búðardalur. This area became Today, with 310 students, taught by 22 Akranes in the music field and teachers is predominantly a mix of Vikings and a seat of literature and learning. teachers, the school thrives because a Celts. A body of evidence shows that Celts Nothing resembling Icelandic medieval strong emphasis is placed on meeting the from both and settled in literature can be found in Scandinavia individual student’s needs and aspirations the West part of Iceland. However, precise but was well-known in Ireland. In Celtic - whether young or mature, giving each dating is not possible and this gives rise Christianity, writing was valued as highly one a deep insight into the world of music. as prayer and monasteries were devoted Popular and classical music are taught with to it. However, there is no evidence that equal prominence. the Vikings were writers. It was Icelanders who wrote the Scandinavian history. All A State-of-the-Art School the Sagas about the were 2007 was a landmark in the school’s history written in Iceland: Heimskringla about and development. The new state-of-the-art the Norwegian kings, Inglingasaga about school opened right next to the shopping the Swedish and Skjöldungasaga about the area. It provides class rooms and practice Danish kings. rooms with computers connected to the Internet so students can download and print music scores and do research. The Tónberg auditorium, seating 177 guests

from TOSKA visit schools in the area to give the same kind of personalised attention that has borne such positive under the direction of its Principal, Lárus Sighvatsson and Assistant Principal, Skúli Ragnar Skúlason.

has facilities for every kind of production, are now turning Icelandic songs into their including conferences. own style of folk music. The school has a variety of ensembles They have produced a DVD and one CD to considerable debate in academic circles. died in Akranes was the Celtic Christian Just as the two nationalities merged, so who liven up community life with their and are preparing another for release this Landnámabók (The Book of Saint Ásólfur. Such was his spiritual did their languages. Many Icelandic words exciting and creative musical performances. year. Settlements) tells us that a chieftain from power that it is said he filled all the lakes are not of Scandinavian origin, whilst They are also Ireland, Ketill Bresason and his brother, with fish. many place names can be explained in The Celtic Influence introducing their Þormóðir settled in Akranes and that his Research has shown there to be very few Gælic, but have no Scandinavian root. One example is the folk music group new concert son, Gufa Ketilsson, lived in Seltjarnarnes. pagan graves in the West - most are in the Today, everyone just enjoys the Celtic comprising 27 girls aged between 11 and p r o g r a m o n When the first settler from , mid-South, mid-North and Flótsdals area spirit - especially in the Irish Festival days. 24. In their sparkling concerts, they sing 18th May. Ingólfur Arnason, arrived in Reyjavik, he and almost no early Christian graves in TOSKA Akranes and play violins and are backed up with drove Gufa out - indicating that at least the East or North of the country. a bass, piano and drums. They focused Dalbraut 1 • 300 Akranes two generations of Celtic settlers were As the settlement progressed, a steady Stillholti 16-18 • 300 Akranes initially on Irish and Scottish Celtic music +354 433 1900 living in the region about the same time stream of Vikings arrived, many with +354 433 1000 but have expanded their repertoire to [email protected] as the Viking settlement. slaves and royal princesses, predominantly [email protected] include some Jewish music and www.toska.is Another notable settler who lived and from Ireland. www.akranes.is

46 www.icelandictimes.com 47 a welcome snack break for the children in the with a view over the bay to the mountains. neighbourhood to enjoy themselves in a Geir’s bakarí is a modern and tasteful beautiful location. Each room also has GeirabakaríThe Bakery by the Bay place to eat. With all the food prepared Borgarnesorgarnes is becoming known as a willB&B understand why. An unusual feature a TV and free wireless Internet access. on the spot, it makes a refreshing change town for artists and designers but, of the house is the theme of cows that is Guests can use the very large, beautifully from mass-produced, pre-packaged meals. Blong before they started to arrive, the most found throughout. Children will love a laid-out kitchen, to cook for themselves Sitting outside at one of the tables in the beautiful house in Borgarnes was built hunt around the house to find all the cows if they wish - but there is a delicious sunshine, you have a view of the whole of in 1947. Designed by Halldór Jónsson, and other animals in all their forms. breakfast available every day. Borgarfjörður. Inside, there is plenty of room at the comfortable couches and chairs for groups of all sizes. The large bay windows offer the same beautiful view of the bay. The bakery is naturally a favourite with children of all ages and there are baby seats available for the youngest members of the family. Lunch time is a perfect time to arrive for the soup and bread, light , prawn salad or one of the range of sandwiches and buns. There’s never a bad time to stock up with cakes or for your trip onwards.

Geirabakarí

riving north from Reykjavik, crossing road and you will find a bakery with a wide Digranesgata 6 • 310 Borgarnes it has many very unusual features. The There are 7 rooms including a 4-bed Located at the tip of the peninsula, the the bay to the beautiful coastal town array of freshly-baked , delicious soup, +354 437 1920 house is bright and airy, with paintings family room. The house is very child- and lounge looks out over the rocks towards Dof Borgarnes makes a perfect time to take a healthy sandwiches, pastries and cakes. [email protected] on the walls and other beautiful works baby-friendly. The garden has a play area the sea. The view is stunning and the sun break. Just after the causeway, turn off the With hot coffee and teas, you are set up for none throughout, making it a very special place with swings and a trampoline but, right puts on a spectacular show every clear to stay. Its owner, Inger, has now opened it up Brautin Car Rental offer some of the best for visitors to stay and enjoy the beauty and most recent cars in its fleet. Zipping of the house and the area it overlooks. about Reykjavik? Try the economical VW The house is ideal for groups wanting BrautinGreat Service and Great Prices Car Rental Polo or the Ford Focus. For negotiating some time together. Either a single floor the mountain roads in security and or the whole house is available to rent. comfort, a 4x4 such as the Suzuki Grand Its size and its calm style is just right Vitara is a classic choice and one of the for small retreats or conferences where a latest additions to Brautin’s fleet. warm comfort is more important than an extravagant hotel’s luxury. Door to door service After farming for over 30 years, Inger Brautin Car Rental can have your car decided that she wanted to buy a house in ready and waiting for you as you step Borgarnes. A friend told her of this house off the plane at Keflavik International at 11 am and she had bought it by 3 o’clock next door is a famous play park that an evening as it dips towards the horizon. The Airport*, or you can have your car the same afternoon! When you visit, you older man crafted specially out of timber patio below the lounge provides a lovely delivered to your door at any hotel, guest sheltered spot to enjoy the warmth, the house or even camp ground in the greater garden and the view. Reykjavik area, free of charge. Bird-watchers can enjoy the wide variety of birdlife, both in the tall fir trees * an extra fee for Keflavik applies and includes and amongst the rocks in the sea. Birds rautin Car Rental, based in Akranes, and who also oversee all the maintenance of both delivery and drop off. such as eider are frequently seen. is one of the oldest car hire companies their fleet themselves. Brautin Car Rental Borgarnes B&B Bin Iceland. Brautin has been in operation since 1971. Founded by Sigurgeir Sveinsson Getting you to your destination in Dalbraut 16 • 300 Akranes Skúlagata 21 • 310 Borgarnes and his wife Erla Björk Karlsdóttir, the comfort and style +354 431 2157 +354 434 1566 company is now run by their 3 sons who The rigours of Iceland’s nature demand a [email protected] [email protected] pride themselves on great personal service lot from a car and that’s why the folks at www.braut.is www.borgarnesbb.is

48 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 49 setting sun, as the many bird varieties do the same in the LivingHótel Brú a Dream bushes around them. In the distance, the famous Snæfells ow many hotels focus on setting the Situated close to the bridge crossing volcano and glacier rises from the ocean, highest standards of design and lavish Borgarfjörður bay, across the water from the a reminder of the romance of Jules Verne’s Hdecoration whilst overlooking the needs of town of Borgarnes, Hótel Brú sits amidst novel, “Journey to the Centre of the the spirit of their guests? the bushes where people have stopped for How many dreams come to life? One centuries for a break or a picnic to enjoy the man’s dream has been to transform an older view overlooking the bay on one side and hotel into an experience to enrich the lives sheltered by the mountain range on the of people from all over the world. His goal other. Just a few hundred metres from the of sharing a beautiful location and making main road going round the country, this

Brúðuheimar Centre for Puppet Arts rúðuheimar has made its mark on seating 75 people, a museum with interactive folk tale Gillitrutt. The story involves a troll the cultural landscape of Iceland exhibits of all things puppetry, small (Gillitrutt) and a farmer’s wife (Freya) and Band is renowned for its ability to combine conference facilities and a café that serves could very well be a social commentary storytelling and puppetry in a way that exceptionally well-received home-made describing the social, political, economic dishes. The Ocean Café opens onto a large and ethical landscape of the Icelandic nation deck that sits just a stone’s throw from the as it stands today. “This is my declaration of beach - an idyllic spot where you can enjoy love to Iceland,” says Bernd, “and I believe a light meal from the menu. Many dishes that just as Freya learned from her mistakes, served in the café are derived from Hildur’s own recipes - fresh vegetable soups and it a place from which visitors can take home hotel has a homey feel to it, whilst providing Earth”. Veigar Jökulsson, whose salads, home-made pizza, appetising wraps special memories is now coming to pass. the facilities expected in a hotel. On all the name means, ‘son of the glacier’ is the and a variety of lovely cakes and deserts. Hótel Brú - The Bridge Hotel provides walls are beautiful pictures highlighting man who is seeing the vision he has held “The ingredients used in our dishes are the simple comforts of home in a cosy rarely seen views of the countryside, for so long coming to fruition, step-by- fresh, healthy and sourced locally as much atmosphere, where you feel unrushed and adding to the atmosphere. step. Through the winter, he has been as possible. Having been actively involved at ease, a place where you can sit and chat Brú is a bridge in many ways - a painstakingly restoring the hotel, which in bringing holistic food to Iceland for over as the sun turns the bay first golden, then place where tourists can chat and share has become a labour of love, where tourists 20 years, it was very natural for me to carry fiery red. experiences over a drink, basking in the can drop in for a meal in the restaurant over my own approach to eating to our café or a few nights’ stay in one of its rooms menu. Many of the recipes used are my own before continuing on their travels around creations and it has been exciting to be able the government and bankers can learn their the country. to extend this to the public,” says Hildur. lessons as well.” There are many lessons to be The restaurant provides a genuine Brúðuheimar also boasts an ‘adventure learned from this little story, which despite Icelandic cuisine with ingredients drawn captivates and delights both children loft’ above the café where kids can play and its obvious relevancy, is nevertheless great from the region round about. and adults alike. The centre, which was dress up, as well as a reading corner where entertainment for children of all ages. It’s easy to find, easy to drop in - but opened in 2010 by master puppeteer Bernd the book-worms can retreat for a quiet read. you may not find it so easy to leave! Ogrodnik and his wife Hildur Jónsdóttir, All told, Brúðuheimar may just be on its way Brúðuheimar Hótel Brú has proven to be a popular destination for to becoming one of the most sought-after both locals and tourists, and it received over child-friendly havens in Iceland. Skúlagata 17 • 310 Borgarnes Hafnarskógur • 311 Borgarbyggð 20,000 visitors in its first year. This summer’s piéce de resistance in +354 530 5000 +354 437 2345 [email protected] The Brúðuheimar Centre is a multi- Brúðuheimar’s collection of puppet theatre [email protected] www.bruduheimar.is functional facility comprising a theatre productions is the well known (in Iceland) www.hotelbru.is

50 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 51 have a nice soak in one from endless black rocky of the hot pots. They’re sheltered from the or soft white beaches, mountains, currently wind, so we won’t get cold. Touristnew Tourist Information Information Centre has people. We have a lot Centre of interesting places. For dormant , fertile farmlands, infertile HraunsnefThe Place with the Country-style Gate They have a stream and a pond there opened in the most popular spot in example, this is one of the best bird-watching lava fields, thousands of islands, waterfalls, addy, please! Can we? It’s not so far! from Glitstaðir, from Háafell, where they’re going to put some fish but BorgarnesA where most travellers take a break areas in Iceland. Snæfellsnes is the only area of rivers, canyons and geothermal heat. Sustainable It’s just past Bifröst on the left when and their own and eggs. She said there the water wasn’t so good. So do you know or fill their tanks. Located in Hyrnatorg, the Iceland that has a Green Globe certification of and ecological lifestyles and experiments abound Dwe go north - that’s not even an hour and was a vegetarian menu that they tried. It what they did? They went way up into the shopping centre next to the Hyrna restaurant Environmental protection & policy. from the harvesting of eggs and eider down to a half away. It’s got that cool, big tall gate, has so many choices they all got something mountains and found this delicious, crystal and the N1 petrol station, this modern office “In the West of Iceland, made up of 10 self-sufficiency, using geothermal heat to grow just like on that cowboy TV show. You can’t different and it was so good, Daddy. has a wide range of information covering all municipalities and many small towns and food.” miss it! It’s such a special place, with all the You know they even have a special the West of Iceland. Whether you’re looking villages there is history behind every stone, sites of animals - it’s like a zoo. The dogs do such children’s menu: burgers, chicken nuggets, for accommodation, restaurants, activities, the most important Sagas with many fascinating funny tricks. The little pigs like to play with fish fingers, sandwiches and a very popular tours, nature, culture, museums - or any place immersive exhibitions. Culture is so varied them, too. I heard they may have a mare and ice cream from Erpsstaðir. of interest, the details are here. You can also get among the different communities - horse riding, with its foal and a cow with its calf for the She said it was super yummy. information on the other regions in Iceland, dancing, music and literature, arts and crafts summer this year and maybe some rabbits, We don’t have to go to the restaurant, if from this office. Look for the black information almost everywhere - a list that barely scratches as well. you don’t want to because they’ve got this ‘i’ on the window. Open 5 days a week from 9 the surface. In the Icelandic countryside, there is And Daddy, it’s really healthy food, too. Barn House where we can eat a delicious to 5 throughout the year and on weekends in a high degree of active participation in all kinds I know I don’t like eating my vegetables . You know the students really like summer. of cultural activities. All kinds of sports and at home, but that’s because they’re frozen it and go there a lot, too. The lunch buffet You could drive all over this region and never outdoor activities are popular throughout the and don’t taste so great. They grow their has home-made, home-grown organic salad know its fascinating history, the hidden secrets, area, with some of the best kayaking in both sea vegetables right there, so they’re as fresh as and two kinds of soups: one with meat & the off-the-beaten-path places to visit - but the and rivers. Adventures abound on the glaciers, Tourist Information they can be! Almost everything comes from the other vegetarian. They bake their own Information Centre reveals all this and more. whether snowmobiling, hiking, superjeep

the land right there or from the surrounding bread. Plokkfiskur with rye bread and Now there is a new Managing Director of tours, climbing or seafood on ice. Boat Hyrnutorg • 310 Borgarnes clear, fresh water stream coming out and the West Iceland Marketing Bureau, Rósa trips offer fishing, amazing birdlife that you can +354 437 2214 now they have the best water. Björk Halldórsdóttir. “We want to make West get very close to, seals and whales, including [email protected] We could stay there for awhile, Daddy. Iceland more visible, since we have a lot to show blue whales. Nature itself offers a grand variety www.westiceland.is You know, all the rooms are named after the different norse gods and goddesses. There’s one called, ‘Freya’ - the goddess of fertility church used for christenings, weddings and it’s a bridal suite! One couple had a and funerals. “Inside there’s a stone-bar baby girl 9 months after their honeymoon xylophone made by Páll Guðmundsson, there. Guess what they named her! All the GamlibærA Stone’s Throw from Glaciers and WaterfallsHúsafell a well-known artist in Iceland who lives rooms are done in different colours and have ost Steinunn Jóhannsdóttir says, Tourist attractions in the area include next door.” showers and toilets. They have three nice “The guesthouse was originally a two glaciers, waterfalls and a lava cottages on the mountainside, too, where Hfarmhouse built by a woman in 1908”. field about 1,100 years old. “We’re a families like ours can stay. My friend said the view was the best! It’s high up, so you farms, so it’s not stuffed with additives, like pasta & chicken, different salads, with can see for miles up and down the valley. the meat we had in Europe. home-made sauces. They make everything You hear the birds but you don’t hear the My friend went there with her family themselves except the pasta. traffic! and she said they had a fantastic choice They have a projector and screen so you They’re opening a Farmers’ market with on the menu for lunch. On the á la carte could have one of your business meetings woollen products, goat soaps, bath salts, menu, there is lamb from Brekka, beef there, while we play with the animals or jams, candy, handicrafts like silver jewellery and embroidery - all sorts of crafts & products from the local farms, so we can get some nice gifts, too. You can look at their website or call Brynja and Jóhann, Daddy.

Hraunsnef Gamli bærinn “Many people, who wondered why she stone’s throw away from

Norðurárdal • 311 Borgarbyggð needed such a large house stopped wondering and Barnafoss waterfalls as well as Húsafell • 311 Borgarbyggð +354 435 0111 when a new road to Þingvellir (Thingvellir) Eiríksjökull and Langjökull Glaciers,” +354 895 1342 [email protected] national park (F-35) was opened in 1930, says Steinunn. [email protected] www.hraunsnef.is making it a favourite place to stop over.” Next to Gamli bær, there is a farm www.husafell.is

52 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 53 drink in hand, enjoying stands in front of the the company of friends you’ve just made. Or building used as a country school from you can sit on the patio, watching the sun 1931 to 1995. Now the beautiful building, SnorrastofaHistory Cultural and BroughtMedieval Centre to Life Steindórsstaðir going down at midnight, unwinding from designed by Guðjón Samúelsson, is used for the stress of daily life at home. norri Sturluson (1179- meetings and conferences with apartments This is a family-run guesthouse where 1241), Iceland’s best and study facilities for scholars. you can visit at any time of the year and Sknown Saga writer and There are two churches in Reykholt: enjoy each season’s special characteristics in scholar wrote such the old church, consecrated in 1887, now all their fullness. There are 7 rooms, single, famous works as beautifully restored and the new church, double and a triple with space for 12 guests at Heimskringla, built between 1988-1996, connected to which remains Snorrastofa. The latter has state-of-the- today one of the most art facilities for musical presentations. It important sources of is famous for the quality of its year-round Scandinavian history; concerts. Snorra , a Visitors not only come to Reykholt for its handbook on writing history but also to enjoy the rich cultural poetry and probably sites. Snorrastofa manages various research life and peaceful stay in this lovely country Egil’s Saga, the story projects, a library and museum, providing village. At Fosshótel Reykholt there is of the Viking reception and information for tourists and an excellent restaurant. Accommodation poet Egill Skalla- scholars. A small gift shop offers books, is available in the three star hotel, Grímsson. Snorri’s records of the Old postcards, and locally handmade souvenirs. Steindórsstaðir farm across the river and Nes ike all the world’s cities, Reykjavik is a set on the side of a hill, you can stay as long a time at very economical rates. Families find Norse language and Nordic mythology are The museum has several exhibitions: farm, which has a 9-hole golf course. busy place, filled with all the trappings as you like. The house, originally built in this a wonderful place for a holiday, letting invaluable to modern scholars. Lof modern city life. To enjoy peace and 1938, has been beautifully restored and the children enjoy that special experience of The quality of his writings made him beauty, you have to get out of the city and re-designed with everything you need for a being around the animals, giving them a love the foremost historical writer of medieval into the countryside. comfortable break. Hot showers, underfloor and appreciation of nature. Jón Helgason, times throughout Europe. His style, Just an hour and a half away is the village heating, self-catering in a fully-equipped the poet, lived nearby, getting his inspiration bringing his characters to life, makes his of Reykholt. Every direction you look, there kitchen, cosy lounge and comfortable beds from the hills, canyon and many waterfalls. accounts fascinating reading even today. A are beautiful rolling hills. Horses, sheep and - they are all there. Now, there are 25 hectares of trees growing wealthy and powerful chieftain in the age cows graze peacefully. Birds sing in the trees After a day’s hiking in the area, it is so nice in a reforestation project that makes a very of unrest and civil war preceding Iceland’s but, otherwise, it is peaceful. You think, “I to come back to a hot shower and a relaxing enjoyable area to stroll in. loss of independence, was could settle down here!” soak in the hot pot, sheltered from any wind, Give Guðfinna and Þórarinn a call or murdered by his enemies in his home in At Steindórsstaðir, a sheep and farm overlooking the beautiful countryside, a send them an email to reserve your room. Reykholt in Borgarfjörður in 1241. The Snorrastofa Cultural and Medieval Centre, founded in his memory, is situated in his ancient homestead, considered one of Iceland’s most noteworthy historical

‘Snorri Sturluson and his time’ addressing The main attractions of the area are issues as upbringing, education, writing, the Hraunfossar waterfalls; Húsafell (a religion, music, properties and manors, the woodland area between lava fields and use of hot spring water, armament, warfare, glaciers and popular holiday resort with sea voyages etc.; ‘Snorri Sturluson and the a nice swimming pool); Deildartunga history of Reykholt’ and an exhibition on spring, (the largest hot spring in Iceland); the archaeological excavation in Reykholt. and the snowmobile tours available on the Today remains of his farm with its tunnel Langjökull glacier. to the bathroom and hot pot can be seen. Steindórsstaðir Snorrastofa Snorri piped water to the pool from the

Reykholt • 320 Borgarfjörður nearby Skrifla hot spring so, according to Reykholt • 320 Borgarfirði +354 435 1227 tradition, he could dictate his writings while +354 433 8000 [email protected] relaxing in the pool. [email protected] www.steindorsstadir.is A statue of Snorri by Gustav Vigeland www.snorrastofa.is

54 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 55 along a lava field starts at Fjöruhúsið and is 1,800 years old and leads to Arnarstapi, another popular place looks like a braded river — except it is FjöruhúsiðRestaurant in Hellnar to visit on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. This solid volcanic rock with various shades of Golfing in the Dales hike is always rewarding but especially on green moss growing on it.” ome-made cooking, fresh bread a quiet summer evening when the sun is Fjöruhúsið is open every day May through and pastries in beautiful coastal low on the horizon and one can hear the September from 10.00 AM to 10 PM. Hsurroundings. “Our seafood soup is the most popular item on the menu,” says the proud owner, Sigríður Einarsdóttir. She’s been running the restaurant since 1997 in a building which used to be a fishermen’s storage built in 1956. It is nestled in a small cove surrounded on three sides by volcanic rock intersected with caves eroded through the ages by the relentless pounding of the sea waves. Fjöruhúsið on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a real find for travellers. Sigríður serves seafood soup made from freshly caught fish and accompanied by freshly birds going about their business. Fjöruhúsið café baked bread and traditional Icelandic “The environment surrounding Hellnar

butter. Sigríður makes her own , is its greatest charm,” says Sigríður. “The Hellnar • Snæfellsnes bakes cakes of various sorts and serves ocean is full of fish which benefits the local +354 435 6844 waffles with whipped cream and jam. sea birds. The lava field on the western side [email protected] A scenic 2.5 km coastal hiking trail of the ice-capped volcano Snæfellsjökull www.fjoruhusid.is

fter farming for over 44 years, first in the sport, regardless of their skill level. Now, less than 2 hours from Reykjavik, with his father and later with his They converted two of the houses on the is a 9-hole golf course, complete with These are thrilling experiences for all age son,A Bjarni, with his wife, Sigrún, found farm into a guesthouse for both made-up putting green and driving range for all groups and families, especially, will find it that the milk farm was getting too much bed and sleeping bag accommodation, the world to enjoy, the result of Bjarni UniqueA Trip Into the Fantasy AdventureWorld of Breiðafjörður Bay Tour one of the best day’s out with so much to see, for them to handle as they grew older. with bathing and cooking facilities in and Sigrún’s tenacity and vision. Their ou watch the net being hoisted aboard, recommended for those wanting something do and experience. You’ll want to remember They were faced with a choice: retire and each house. It is open all year for travellers positive energy and optimism is an laden with seafood. Open a scallop or different. this day, so a visit to the largest souvenir quit or…pioneer something new. Having to enjoy each season’s special features. inspiration to everyone who visits. You urchinY at the table and pop it into your mouth, Another tour you can try is Sea Angling shop in W. Iceland in Stykkishólmur will been in the forefront of new developments The area provides a lovely place to can find them by following the road no. wash it down with white wine and you have in the rich fishing grounds of the bay. As the give you a wide range of choice. in the area all their lives, they decided to relax in. This is a very central location 518 to Reykholt. a unique, delicious experience! Undoubtedly seagulls look on, you bring up your dinner take a big step into the unknown. They the freshest sushi in the world! How often from the ocean’s depths. You can have it sold their livelihood and poured their can you taste food that fresh at home? cooked for you in one of Stykkishólmur’s lives into a bold new idea. The West coast town of Stykkishólmur They built a golf course on their farm in is the base for Seatours, whose boats sail the beautiful Reykholtsdalur. Then they the mysterious Breiðarfjörður bay with its built a club house and restaurant for the innumerable islands. Here, you can see golfers to relax in, with massage facilities puffins, eider ducks, shags, kittiwakes and and a jacuzzi. The restaurant also has sometimes, the magnificent white-tailed excellent facilities for small conferences eagle. The catamaran tour boat takes you and meetings (up to 60 people). Breakfast almost within touching distance of the is also offered in the restaurant, if reserved bird colonies on the towering cliffs. This is in advance. a big, comfortable boat, with an on-board Golf is a popular sport and golfers from which to enjoy the beautiful nature, restaurant, mind you. It’s a trip into a fantastic restaurants after the tour. Cod, halibut, Nes in Reykholt Seatours are always looking for new courses to with its waterfalls and hills and the rich world of incredible basalt rock formations like redfish and coalfish are the most common play and challenge their skills. Iceland historical sites of the entire Borgarfjörður Reykholt • 311 Borgarnesi ‘God’s Bookshelf’ and the island of Eiríksey, catch. Smiðjustígur 3 • 340 Stykkishólmur is becoming increasingly known as an area. Practically next door is Snorrastofa, +354 435 1472 where Eric the Red fled after being outlawed You can take your car across the bay, +354 433 2254 interesting location to play. The par 70 the medieval culture centre in Reykholt, [email protected] before sailing off to Greenland. visiting the island of Flatey, where it seems [email protected] course is enjoyable for anyone interested with its library and fascinating museum. www.farmholidays.is This tour earns its name and is highly time has stood still in the . www.seatours.is

56 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 57 Black & WhiteWhich experience will you takeor home? Colour? hat’s the difference between a black driven past with barely a passing glance. realm that brings you into the world never heard of the ‘useless’ stone, the ‘weak’ simplicity but powerful in its presentation! & white picture and a colour one? A plain drive was transformed with a of Iceland and makes you a part of it. stone, the ‘half-strength’ or ‘full-strength’ How had I never seen that before, nor heard TheyW display the same image but there’s a richness of history, nature, geology and The guide brings the tour to life with stones used to test a man’s fitness to be a about the pool he bathed in or where he world of richness in the colour version that understanding. anecdotes from the Sagas, history that fisherman. lives? is missing in the black & white. That’s the Here is a trip to one of the most famous helps you understand the kind of people Seeing the rusting bits of twisted iron from Then there are nature’s own sculptures difference between driving yourself around parts of Iceland - brought to a wider the Vikings of today call their ancestors. the ship-wrecked trawler washed up on the - dramatic rocks down to delicate moss, to see Iceland and taking a guided tour. public through Jules Verne’s ‘Journey to You go down to the seashore to see the black beach and seeing the pounding surf clinging precariously to the lava. I have visited Snæfellsnes for the last the Centre of the Earth’. Despite its fame, geese swimming and the seals sunning gave me more of a clear idea of the tough lives I took a tour today and took away a totally 10 years. I know the scenery - and love however, there are so many secrets to be themselves whilst so many varieties of these men lived and the risks they took fishing different experience from my own visits to it! However, I got more out of one day revealed on this 500 km. round trip that birds swoop and plunge around you. This these seas. I never knew how many men lost the area. I came home much richer for it. tour than in all those 10 years of trips put make this tour of such greater value than is up-close and personal. their lives fishing in open row boats, trying to Reykjavik Excursions offers trips to many together. I saw places I had never been to just looking at sights on your own. If I pick up a 20 kg. stone and carry it, I make a living and provide for their families in different parts of the country; each one as - places off the beaten track. I learnt the This is no stale see-the-sights coach think I’m pretty strong - but I’d be classed past centuries. Here is living history! unique as the locations they visit, brought background behind places I had merely tour. It is a plunge into a vibrant, living as ‘useless’, if that was all I could carry! I’d That sculpture of the giant, brilliant in its fully to life by professional guides.

Reykjavik Excursions

BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 [email protected] www.re.is

58 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 59 the fishermen on Breiðafjord and Faxaflói Bays. “I never know exactly what is going to be on the LangaholtGuest House & Restaurant day’s menu - it really just depends on what angaholt Guest House looks out over family. And while certainly coming close to the fishermen bring in that day,” Keli Faxaflói bay on the southern side of the hotel status with its spacious accommodation explains. Fish stock, patés and several types LSnæfellness Peninsula. In summer, Arctic and á la carte restaurant, Keli prefers of bread and cakes are all made here. Terns preside over the landscape. To the nevertheless to retain the true character of a west, Snæfellsjökull perches on the horizon, country guesthouse with a warm and inviting providing guests with quintessential post- atmosphere, where guests can feel at home.

Lean — Europe’s Towards last frontier Nature

ilderness, peace, unique experiences that it inspired the publisher of the Lonely dangerous occupation is what makes and great hospitality is what you’ll Planet guide to honour it as one of top 10 the towns and villages tick. Practically experienceW in the Westfjords – one of regions worldwide to visit in 2011. Last year everything revolves around the local fishing The restaurant is open daily from 8 am Europe’s least populated and most remote the region won the European Destination fleet and processing plant. card views of this mysterious glacier-topped to 9 pm and travellers are welcome to stop regions. About 7,400 people live in the of Excellence award (EDEN). The EDEN The village inhabitants endure long mountain. in for a hearty breakfast or enjoy a delicious Westfjords, which makes up roughly award’s destination criteria are commitment harsh winters but are then rewarded with Owner/manager Þorkell, or Keli as he bowl of fresh seafood soup served with nine percent of the land area of Iceland. to social, cultural and environmental exceptionally beautiful summers and likes to be called, says that the guest house home-made bread for lunch. Relax with Statistically speaking, it is the least inhabited sustainability. plentiful vegetation. Literature is rich in has been in his family since 1978. Today, glass of wine or a cold Icelandic beer while part of Europe. Less than one person Farmers have abandoned some fjords folklore with stories of witches, sorcerers, most operations of Langaholt Guest house, perusing the á la carte menu in the evening, occupies each square kilometre opposed to, which show little or no sign of ever having hidden people, elves, light fairies, ghosts and camping site and 9-hole golf course are all which offers starters, main courses and for example, 400 people in the . been inhabited. Fishing towns and villages menacing trolls. overseen by members of Keli’s extended deserts. Some say the Westfjords is the ‘most which, on a map, look as if they are near each The Westfjords offer local and foreign Langaholt Guest House is centrally famous unknown place in Iceland’ which other are often separated by an imposing visitors a truly unique experience. When located on the south coast of Snæfellsness hits the nail on the head. Famous, because natural barrier such as a high mountain. Icelanders from other parts of the country Penninsula, 89 km from Borganes and everyone knows it exists, but unknown Steep sea-cliffs are home to some of the visit the Westfjords for the first time they’re 164 km from Reykjavik. Well situated for because it used to be hard to get to. As a world’s largest seabird colonies in the world. in for just as big a surprise as visitors from exploring the wonders of the area, activities result, the area has been largely ignored by Beaches are black, red or white and are abroad. such as horse riding, whale watching, bird tour operators and travel agencies. Instead, sometimes inhabited by seals. Lowland In winter, the Westfjords is an ideal life, hiking tours and fishing are just some it has been enjoyed by individual travellers is scarce but instead there‘s a narrow place to scout for the northern lights and in of the possibilities. who seek the highest level of authentic strip of land alongside the foothills of the summer, to enjoy the midnight sun. The restaurant employs a couple of top travel experience in incredible natural mountains. As a result, traditional farming Langaholt Marketing Office notch chefs who specialise in a variety surroundings. is difficult.

of fish & . They use the Ytri-Garðar • 356 Snæfellsbær Uninhabited fjords, steep sea-cliffs, Fishing is the predominant industry in Aðalstræti 7 • 400 Ísafjörður freshest possible trout and salmon from waterfall, natural geothermal the small communities. Fishermen go about +354 450 4040 nearby rivers, while the cod, catfish, monk [email protected] pools, teeming birdlife and the arctic fox their business every day as they’ve done [email protected] fish, halibut or plaice come straight from www.langaholt.is cast a spell on every visitor. So much so for centuries. Their hard and sometimes www.westfjords.is

60 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 61 on foot. There’s the and culture of the area Westfjords Maritime Museum, for an are no less interesting than its landscapes interesting look into Ísafjörður’s history. and West Tours offer ample opportunities Hótelime flies when you areÍsafjörður having a blast This bright and cheerful all-day Stroll about in the old town amongst WestThe remote Westfjord Tours peninsula at your Doorstep to experience them simultaneously. One in the Westfjords...and you’ll want restaurant, looking out over the fjord, 19th century wooden houses, have ne would think that the remotest afternoon walk in the peninsula, of their tours gives you the chance to be toT see it all! Packing in the scenery, the also serves light and traditional coffee or lunch at one of the inviting part in one of the remotest countries horseback riding and kayaking tours, a an Icelander for a day – where you’ll see waterfalls, the magnificent mountains, Icelandic dinner dishes using a variety of Owould be near impossible to access and trip to the puffin-inhabited Island how the local people live and work, what the pure energy of it all leaves you local ingredients. require months of planning, but the fact and hikes to some of the most untouched they eat and drink and how people cope refreshed and inspired. But then it comes Additional accommodation can be of the matter is that you can simply hop places in Iceland. All you need to do is with living so close to the , time to turn your attention to where you found at Gamla Guesthouse, a 2-star on a plane in Reykjavik in the morning take a plane in Reykjavik and the secrets where you only see the sun nine months will spend the night. guesthouse in a historic building right and start exploring the magnificent of the Westfjords are yours to discover. out of the year. You’ll also have the chance Westfjords of Iceland 40 minutes later. The Westfjord peninsula is renowned to visit the ‘ghost-town’ of Hesteyri, which

Ready, steady...stay! in the town centre, just a few minutes Right in the heart of the Ísafjörður, the walk from Hotel Ísafjörður. Clean, capital of the Westfjords, you will find bright and comfortable rooms await Local tour company, West Tours, for both its remarkable beauty and was abandoned in the 1950’s due to its Hotel Ísafjörður - a modern 3-star hotel you in this cosy, turn-of-the-century arranges a wide array of tours in this tranquillity, thus it comes as no surprise inaccessible location. The town has been with 36 double rooms that serves as a Norwegian wood guesthouse. There’s remote region, suitable for all types that the guidebook publisher, Lonely maintained so visitors can see how the life perfect base from which to explore the even a bathrobe waiting for you in the of travellers – be it families, groups or Planet, ranked the Westfjords as one of the was in such extreme conditions. peninsula. The comfortable and well- cupboard! These are the little extras that thrill seekers. These include a tranquil top 10 places to visit in 2011. The history The flight to the Westfjords only takes appointed rooms have exceptional views add to the charming ambiance of Gamla around 40 minutes and flights depart 2-3 of the nearby mountains and harbour. A Guesthouse. times a day all year round. They land at 3 hearty buffet breakfast greets you in the Ísafjörður is a small town where the different locations: Gjögur, Ísafjörður and morning in the ground floor restaurant. local attractions are easily accessible little cafés and restaurants, and enjoy Bíldudalur, each of which has its choice of this relaxing yet international capital of activities and tours. West Tours arrange the Westfjords. the whole package – including the airport The newly surfaced roads to the collection and experienced local guides Westfjords make getting here a breeze. who will guide you through the narrow There are also regular daily flights all fjords and steep cliffs of the Westfjord year round between Ísafjörður and peninsula. Reykjavik. Flying time is 35 minutes.

Hótel Ísafjörður West Tours

Silfurtorgi 2 • 400 Ísafirði Aðalstræti 7 • 400 Ísafjörður +354 456 4111 +354 456 5111 [email protected] [email protected] www.hotelisafjordur.is www.westtours.is

62 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 63 The Red Sands of species that are thought Rauðisandur to rarely leave the Icelandic shelf. The While much of the rest of Iceland is common seal, being the more outgoing and VesturbyggðWestfjord’s southernmost municipality renowned for its amazing black sand Who’sSeal Watching from Watching the Sea Whom? curious of the two species, congregates in he Westfjords of Iceland are often beaches, the red sands of Rauðisandur, as treat for children and adults alike, Seals are often one of the star small groups on skerries and rocky beaches passed over by those who dare not their name suggests, are a stripe of a different this summer it will be possible to attractions of aqua-parks and zoos around and is more easily spotted than the shyer ventureT too far off Iceland’s main ring road. colour. Wide expanses of fine shell-sand takeA an unforgettable seal watching tour the world with their graceful swimming Grey seal. Solitary vagrants such as Harp But it’s time for a fresh look at this remote beaches give rise to a pinkish-reddish hue with Seal Watching ehf. From the decks of and cute antics. It’s one thing however to seals, Ringed seals and Hooded seals are part of Iceland which was recently named that glistens magically when the sun shines their most recent acquisition, the ‘Brimill’, see them in captivity and quite another to sometimes seen during the winter, while one of the 10 top regions of 2011 by The and is the perfect place for an exhilarating you will get a chance to observe seals at see them in their natural habitat. Playful Bearded seals and Walruses are very rare. Lonely Planet, describing it as “an outdoor tolt on a beautiful Icelandic horse. The tiny one of the very best seal watching locations and curious by nature, the seals often (Information courtesy of the Icelandic Ministry adventurer’s dream destination”. coffee shop near the beach affords idyllic in Iceland - Miðfjörður fjord along the swim quite close to the boat for a better of Fisheries and Agriculture) views, especially on a sunny day. Vatnsnes Penninsula. look at you. Then it is a question of who Látrabjarg is watching whom! Vesturbyggd’s most famous natural Samuel Jónsson Museum Seal watching tours are offered twice phenomenon, Látrabjarg, is the far west This is an intriguing story of a retired farmer daily from June through August at 10:00 who realised his boy-hood artistic ambitions and 13:00. Sightings ranging anywhere through painting and sculpture. Samuel from 12 to 95 seals are possible and, as Jónsson spent virtually his whole retirement the boat approaches, the captain will from the age of 65 until his death in 1969, turn off the engines, getting you within tirelessly creating various naive sculptures cast about 45 metres of the seals, much closer from poured concrete, including a (grotesque) than is possible on land. Puffins, as well replica of the lions of the fountains at the Alhambra Palace, in Granada, Spain and other pieces. Located 15 km from the village of Bildudalur, it is open year-round.

The Pirate’s House Café The Pirate’s House Café in Patreksfjörður is an example of the entrepreneurial spirit of the region. Dedicated to the concept of Iceland and the most westerly point in Ólaf Egillsson Folk and Aeronautical of sustainable tourism, the café offers Iceland and Europe. Museum homemade bread, cakes, salads and light Millions of puffins arrive here in May Another point of interest on your way to lunches, all made from locally grown fresh every year to nest on the 14 km-long Látrarbjarg, 40 km from Patreksfjörður, is produce. If you have kids in tow, The Pirates’ towering cliff, departing again around the the Ólaf Egillsson Folk and Aeronautical House is for you - a treasure hunt, dress-up 1st of July. Optimum viewing times are in Museum at Hnjótur. For a first-hand look and a musical programme aimed at younger the late afternoon and early evening when at life in Iceland over the last hundred children, is a welcome addition to the the birds come home to roost. Látrabjarg is years, the museum is a convenient stop growing list of child-friendly options in the also the summer home of one of the world’s for a mid-afternoon coffee break. Coffee, West Fjords this summer. biggest Black Guillemot colonies. cakes, sandwiches and ice cream are Accommodation and a coffee shop are offered in the cozy café located inside the Finally, an interesting historical exhibit at as other migratory birds, inhabit the Sealwatching ehf is located in the small available at Breiðavík farm, located just 12 museum. the French Seamen’s Exhibition documents area every summer and are also great to village of Hvammastangi, on Miðfjörður kms before Látrabjarg. the lives of the many thousands of French watch. Other tours on offer are a 3-hour fjord, on the west side of Vatnsnes sailors who came to fish in the waters around sea angling tour and a 2-hour ‘midnight Penninsula. The village is easily accessible, the West Fjords from the 1820’s onwards. It cruise’ which starts at 23:00 (only from just 7 km off the main ring road, about half is just one more hidden cultural gem to be 10th June to 20th July). way between Reykjavik and Akureyri. found in Patreksfjörður.

Vesturbyggð A few surprising facts... Sealwatching With puffins and whales grabbing many

Aðalstræti 63 • 450 Patreksfirður headlines in recent years, it may come as Höfðabraut 13 • 530 Hvammstangi +354 450 2300 rather a surprise to find that Icelandic coasts +354 897 9000 [email protected] are home to about 12,000 Common seals [email protected] www.vesturbyggd.is and 4,000 Grey seals—the two native seal www.sealwatching.is

64 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 65 Centre provides visitors Goðafoss, Ullafoss The Icelandic Seal Centre with all the necessary information about and Barnafoss waterfalls and listen to Hvammastangi how to best see these intriguing creatures RidingPolar Hestar’s Summer Groupthe Tours North stories of Viking gods and warriors. This without harming their natural habitats, thus tour is for intermediate riders. he Icelandic Seal Centre & Museum to ongoing research, education and the insuring the specie’s continued survival in olar Hestar Tours of North Iceland picturesque town of Akureyri far below of Hvammastangi, is located on the promotion of sustainable tourism in the and around Icelandic coasts. is one of Iceland’s top destinations and the fjord itself, the longest in Iceland, Ride with the Elves Tour picturesqueT Miðfjörður fjord and provides a vicinity of Húnaflói Bay. Pfor the ethereal experience that is horse silently stretching out to the Arctic Sea. An 8-day, 7-night tour for intermediate Housed in a historical building in the You’re Invited! riding in Iceland. The serenity of Tranquil farms with fresh coats of red riders. Ride to Grenivik, stop at the Laufás village of Hvammastangi, the Seal Centre The Great Seal Count of 2011, will be hosted countryside in the vicinity of Eyjafjörður paint and flocks of white sheep dot the Turf farm and museum. Beautiful views multitasks as a museum, research centre by the Seal centre and will take place once fjord near Grenivik, is the backdrop hillsides, the lush greens of the cultivated over the fjord and the island of Hrisey. and tourist information desk for the area, again this year over the weekend of 16th & to an array of exciting excursions for land are complimented by the deep blues Extinct volcanoes, silent glaciers and conveniently located all under one roof. 17th July. Volunteers are welcome! intermediate to advanced riders of all of sky and sea. This then, is the road to hidden waterfalls surround you and, at the Via its various exhibits, cultural displays, ages, taking place this summer at Polar Grýtubakki farm, home of Polar Hestar highest point, a tremendous view out to documentaries and even seal folklore, the Opening hours Hestar Tours. Tours. the North Atlantic awaits your gaze. Seal Centre offers a non-partisan view of seals June through August- 09:00 - 17:00 in Iceland, their role in Icelandic history and 1st - 31st September - weekdays 10:00 - 14:00 present day sustainability issues surrounding Also open by request outside of the above hours. this sometimes controversial creature. Seal Admission: 900 kr ages 12 and up watching remains, nevertheless, a favourite Under 12’s free of charge activity with Icelanders and tourists alike and has been gaining in popularity in recent Iceland Seal Centre years.

All information related to the viewing Brekkugata 2 • 530 Hvammstanga perfect mid-journey stop between Reykjavik of seals in their natural habitat, whether at +354 897 9900 and Akureyri. The centre, which opened sea or on land, is available at the Centre. [email protected] its doors to the public in 2005, is devoted Offering guided tours by boat or on land, the www.selasetur.is

you! “Our menu includes horse steak, horse Víðigerði restaurant and guesthouse goulash and horse burger,” says Steinsson Horse burger, milk-curds and traditional lamb who admits that may be too First a little introduction to set the Gods and Sagas Tour Fascinating North Iceland Iceland comes alive on this 5-day, 4-night This is a challenging tour of 8 days and my job in Reykjavik and moved up here exotic for some. scene... After crossing the sea-level road from tour that takes you on an unforgettable 7 nights for very experienced riders. You with my spouse some months before all the Víðigerði guesthouse is one of the Akureyri that bridges the east and west journey. Your horse is your constant will ride from Fremstafell farmhouse to trouble started. We were determined to try most conveniently located and affordable flanks of Eyafjörður fjord, the road winds companion through the verdant valleys the impressive Goðafoss waterfall, into our luck in what I call ‘the best business in accommodations in Iceland. It has 8 double its way to the top where you are met of the North, as you wind your way the Bárðardalur valley and up to the the world’” referring to his guests’ positive rooms and sleeping bag accommodation. with an astonishing view—snow-capped over ancient sheep paths to visit the famous Aldeyrarfoss waterfall, known attitude to life. Rooms share private facilities and there’s a mountains in the distance, the little diverse landscape around the historic for its intriguing basaltic columns and Víðigerði’s old-fashioned restaurant offers living room and a kitchen available to guests. onwards to explore the volcanic region of perhaps the most unique breakfast in the Lake Mývatn. country. “We serve traditional Icelandic Polar Hestar Tours which celebrated breakfast, common in Iceland until late its 25th anniversary in 2010, is run by 20th century. It consists of , boiled the husband and wife team of Stefán and egg, liver sausage, cod liver oil for good Juliane and has been a firm favourite with health, lamb paté spread on bread, and horse lovers everywhere, many of whom finally – Skyr with fresh cream,” Steinsson return year after year. explains. “Skyr is the Icelandic name for milk-curds which is actually a popular low fat cheese product that looks and tastes much like yoghurt.” ith a welcoming smile, guesthouse is served for lunch and Víðigerði restaurant Pólar hestar owner and restauranteur dinner. It is prepared from locally-farmed GuðmundurW Steinsson says, “Tourists lamb, horse and beef. Try lamb chops with Víðigerði next to the Ring road Grýtubakka II • 601 Akureyri +354 463 3179 brighten our day!” He used to be a car bread crumbs or traditional clear broth +354 451 2592 [email protected] polarhestar@ polarhestar.is salesman in Reykjavik before Iceland’s lamb stew with vegetables. If you’re into www.vidigerdi.is www.polarhestar.is economic setback in October 2008. “I quit eating horse meat, this is the right place for

66 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 67 for a very special fish soup tasting event which is free of charge.

Tröllaskagi Mountains Considerlthough the population of Dalvík paintDalvík ball and laser tag or explore the The area around Dalvík is known for it’s is just under 2000, it is an active local folk museum. More information phenomenal off-piste skiing and there is community.A The new Berg Cultural on these activities can be found at the also a skiing area with ski lifts just above House, for example, is one of the cultural centre. the town. Hiking is another activity happening places in Dalvík, where one that is gaining popularity in the local can enjoy various concerts, performances community. Ferðatröll Hiking Club and exhibitions throughout the year. offers a variety of organised hikes during The cultural house also serves as the their Hiking Week (24 June -3 July) with information centre for the community, hikes into the surrounding Tröllaskagi where you can find all the information mountains. Hikes range from easy to strenuous and you are welcome to join in.

Hrisey, a bird watchers paradise (pop. 200) Just off the coast of Dalvík lies the 2nd largest island in Iceland. A ferry from Dalvík will get you there in 15 minutes and views of the surrounding mountains and fjord are incredible. Invigorate yourself in Dalvík’s annual all-you-can-eat fish festival: Fiskidagurinn Mikli Alkemia at Lake Mývatn Dalvík is well known for its annual another world summer festival The Great Fish Day lkemia is the first travel agency, to further and further apart. Hence the great ice, etc. The Mývatn region offers incredible you need about area activities and events. that will take place this year on August specialise in wellbeing holidays in the volcanic activity in the region, which is in diversity within a limited area, so there is no Needing to go online? There is a computer 6th. This popular event serves all MývatnA area and in organising workshops constant formation. This beautiful lake need for long trips by car. available in the library (for a small fee) sorts of traditional fish dishes free of (Qi gong, yoga, meditations, massage…) in is a sanctuary for waterfowl (ducks, swans and a hot-spot for Internet access in the charge. Various forms of entertainment Access to Grimsey (pop. 100) the heart of the elements in Iceland. and geese), of which seventeen American, You can stay with Alkemia for periods in Cultural Centre’s café. enliven the festivities with local bands, Dalvík is also the place where you can Eurasian and Arctic species all come here any season. Depending on the time of year Activities abound in and around musicians, a kids theatre, a puppet show, take a ferry to the island of Grimsey, Alkemia’s trips are an art of living - to breed: a paradise for the bird-watcher. and the prevalent conditions, you can trek Dalvík. You can go whale watching, bird face painting & balloons, free boat rides which is a must if getting a certificate a deep experience of encountering For the contemplative spirit, the site offers with snowshoes or cross-country skis or watching, horse riding, swimming, play on the fjord and even exhibitions of sea proving that you have crossed the Arctic nature. exceptional variety, one of the most beauti- on foot, and if the weather prevents your creatures. As the sun sets, fireworks light Circle is on your list of things to do while ful but strangest places on the planet. The going out, you can take advantage of the up the August sky, bringing The Great in Iceland....and really, why not? Mývatn: imagination is continually drawn to the opportunity to meet the local people with Fish Day to a close. Lake Mývatn is located in the northern bizarre shapes of the landscape and the their age-old traditions. Without a doubt, part of the country at latitude of 65.6°N, trolls, elves and fairies who, no doubt, live every outing provides an opportunity to Dalvík House-to-house soup tasting exactly over the active mid-Atlantic Ridge there. A stay at Lake Mývatn is an immer- discover the rich and subtle features of If you happen to arrive in Dalvík on the Goðabraut • 620 Dalvík that emerges in Iceland. The rift is gradu- sion in a very powerful primeval natural the lake: its legends, culture and culinary Friday before The Great Fish Day, you are +354 460 4000 ally widening at a rate of slightly less than environment, where man has developed traditions such as -smoked trout or in for a treat. From about 8pm onwards, [email protected] an inch per year, continually pushing the and maintained traditions such as baking lamb, and many others just waiting to be www.dalvik.is

residents of the village open their homes Images by © Jean-Marc Plessy European and American continental plates bread on the hot ground, fishing below the discovered…

68 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 69 The Four Seasons in Mývatn Mývatn in winter Mývatn in spring Mývatn in summer Mývatn in the autum The dominant colours are white Green and black emerge from the This is the warm season of green The colours are flamboyant, with and blue, often with magical skies snow, reborn after the long winter and black red and yellow dominating

In contrast to those who Now is the time for the return The northern summer has come With the arrival of September, encounter Mývatn in summer of large flocks of migratory at last, full of life and light. But the spectacular aurora borealis with its chaotic lava, winter birds from Africa, Europe and its duration is short, and with begins to light up the starry provides an opportunity America that converge at the all its outpouring, nature senses night sky. Night is gradually to experience a landscape lake sanctuary. Wild swans, that its days are numbered. gaining more and more of a ‘smoothed out’ by the snow, from greylag geese, fifteen species The snow has disappeared even foothold over the summer’s which only the most unruly lava of duck, grebes, great northern light. With the early night peaks and major craters emerge. divers, wheatears, phalaropes, frosts come the first mirrors of Crossing the Krafla caldera snipe - all are enthusiastic to morning ice. The peaks become or the frozen lake on cross- begin their new lease of life. powdered over with an icing country skis is an unforgettable Courtship is the order of the coating of snow and the experience. You hike on day and these birds, which sheep are brought down into snowshoes, cross-country skis or have not yet fully acquired the valleys, gathered together Alkemia: on foot, depending on the snow their wild habits, are more by riders on horseback. The sun Alkemia’s guides love to take time (‘slow conditions. The air is extremely trusting than they will be in now falls obliquely and the fiery travel’) to feel, encounter and explore pure at this time of year and a few weeks, once they start tones of autumn light up the hidden places off the beaten track. The the skies are often magnificent, raising their broods. This Arctic vegetation: dwarf birch, hikes will depend on the weather and the exhibiting the renowned is also the lambing season, woolly willow and rowan now inspiration of your guides. They may be ‘glitský’ (multicoloured clouds) which comes into full swing display their resplendent colours gentle or energetic, mysterious or dazzling, during the day and the aurora before the snow has completely and redwings feast on red but they will always finish in the evening borealis at night. The frost disappeared and winter and blueberries. The tundra, with a wonderful relaxing bath in the milky glistening on the trees creates still seems to have trouble with its thousand shades of blue silica-rich water of natural hot springs a fairytale landscape. It is not colour, hosts gatherings of large (between 37° and 42° C). To bathe like this uncommon to come across a flocks of geese for their dress in winter under the starry sky, the body Harpa Barkardóttir and Jean-Marc Plessy, Harpa Barkardóttir is Icelandic. She has studied flock of fine ptarmigan or to from the peaks and almost all rehearsal before their great flight warm as toast, and the head in the cool air, the founders of Alkemia, emphasise quality Anthropology. She took her guiding diploma catch sight of an Arctic fox. In the paths are accessible on foot. southwards. The world is once virtually alone in the midst of an immense over quantity in their trips by choosing to do 10 years ago and has since accompanied December, you are likely to meet This is a great time for bird- natural landscape is an unforgettable as little overland driving as possible, keeping groups in Iceland – often with a geological ‘sausage-swiper’, ‘door-slammer’, watching. Life overflows on experience, which has become an essential the cuisine as local as possible and selecting theme. She is a Kundalini yoga teacher, ‘candle-beggar’ and other Yule and around the lake and we can for some. This is a sort of thalassotherapy accommodation with character and tranquility. specialising in the field of pregnancy. She is lads - the 13 Icelandic Father admire the last male harlequin at the origins of time. The immensity of the also a musician and a singer - talents that she Christmases, little pranksters garrots in their nuptial plumage landscape, the low density of the population, They organise individual journeys and trips puts to great advantage in these trips. who can be quite startling, on the rapids of the Laxá river, the quality of the water, air, silence and light with respect for the environment, local and who do not have much in and observe the first hatching make Mývatn a perfect place to recharge people, themselves and their guests. Guiding Harpa and Jean-Marc like to accompany common with the globalised red of their broods, whilst waders again preparing to sink into the one’s batteries. Santa Claus. The aurora borealis, freeze at the slightest alarm, storms and night of the northern is possible in English, French and Icelandic. people into the sacred dimension of nature. Christmas, and New Year’s requiring their chicks in the winter but first, the ephemeral They have a sensibility and respect for the Alkemia Tours Eve fireworks all contribute to foam to remain absolutely still beauty of the autumnal season Jean Marc Plessy is French, an Aikido and Qi ‘unseen world’ - and a solid knowledge of the bringing light and explosions of admitting defeat before the and trust in their powers of confirms its place in the natural gong teacher, Shiatsu practitioner, musician material one. Encountering nature is, for them, Bræðraborgarstígur 13 • 101 Reykjavík joy during the darkest moments eternal summer light invades mimicry to protect them. cycle, thrilling our senses and and a photographer. first and foremost the encountering of your +354 847 4133 of the year. the roof of the world. desire for harmony. own nature. Join them on a trip to a surreal [email protected] world! www.alkemia.is Images by © Jean-Marc Plessy

70 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 71 ne hour . o fro ox m r y the road makes a sharp p 12 o p u a r

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Gthe most famous one in Þingeyjarsveit the waterfall. reached on foot. county. At least four more waterfalls on Chieftain Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Hrafnabjargafoss waterfall is one of the Skjalfandafljót river are certain to impress converted from the heathen custom Ásatrú hidden secrets of Þingeyjarsveit County visitors but usually go unnoticed even to Christianity in the year 1000. On his the bus though they’re only a stone‘s throw away return from Iceland‘s national assembly – from the Ring road. Alþingi – he gathered his heathen icons and All five waterfalls are in the Skjálfandafljót threw them into the waterfall. Hence the PrIce you can’t river which flows in a northerly direction waterfall’s name in English – Waterfall of 2500 from Vatnajökull glacier – Europe’s largest the Gods. Isk glacier – and exits in Skjalfandaflói Bay. Aldeyjarfoss waterfall is the most o/w mIss! Goðafoss waterfall is easily spotted from awesome waterfall in the Skjálfandafljót Transfer from most hotels & the Ring road and there’s ample parking River. Black vertical and bent columnar guesthouses in Reykja vík to Keflavík Airport or vice versa. Flybus schedule from bsÍ bus terminal available on both sides of it. At Fosshóll on basalt formations form the backdrop for this in reykjavík to keflavík International airport

valid from 27 march through 29 october 2011.

PrIce Mon. Tue. Wed. Thu. Fri. Sat. Sun. 1950 04:40 04:40 04:40 04:40 04:40 04:40 04:40 and is found a few kilometres further Isk 05:00 05:00 05:00 05:00 05:00 05:00 05:00 o/w 05:20 05:20 05:20 05:20 05:20 05:20 05:20 south in the same river. From Aldeyjarfoss 05:40 05:40 05:40 05:40 05:40 05:40 05:40 continue to drive along the same road you Transfer from BSÍ Bus Terminal 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:00 06:30* 06:30* 06:30* 06:30* 06:30* 06:30* 06:30* came in on (842). This road changes into in Reykjavík to Kefla vík Airport a tertiary road, F-26, a so-called ‘fjallvegur’ or vice versa. 08:00* 08:00* 08:00* 08:00* 08:00* 08:00* 08:00* or mountain road which is only accessible in 09:30 09:30 09:30 09:30 09:30 09:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 summer. Continue until you get to a fence Flybus+ pick up at selected 11:30 11:30 11:30 11:30 11:30 11:30 11:30 hotels & guesthouses: 12:30 12:30 12:30 12:30 12:30 12:30 12:30 that leads down the hill to Íshólsvatn lake 13:30 13:30 13:30 13:30 13:30 13:30 13:30 Mon. – Sun. at 04:30, 05:00, 05:30, 07:30*, on your right hand side. Drive or hike in the 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 13:30, 20:30* 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 14:00 opposite direction to the lake, alongside the & 21:30*. 15:00 15:00 15:00 15:00 15:00 15:00 15:00 16:00 16:00 16:00 16:00 16:00 16:00 fence until you reach the river where you’ll Mon. – Sat. at 09:00 & 15:30. *26 May – 4 September. 21:00* 21:00* 21:00* 21:00* 21:00* 21:00* 21:00* the eastern side there’s a tourist information amazing sight which never fails to impress. find Hrafnabjargafoss waterfall. 22:00* 22:00* 22:00* 22:00* 22:00* 22:00* 22:00* 23:00 23:00 23:00 23:00 23:00 23:00 23:00 office, fuel station, grocery store, restaurant, Late afternoon in summer is the best for Barnafoss waterfall is in a 100 metre- Book now on www.flybus.is handcraft market and a guesthouse. The photography. The waterfall is 40 km south deep ravine. From Goðafoss drive along *26 May - 4 September. river majestically cascades 17 metres from of Goðafoss and can be reached in a normal the Ring road in the direction of Akureyri. a horseshoe-shaped rim into a ravine of car along route 842 from June until the Turn north along route 85 for 2-3 km and volcanic origin. The waterfall is accessible first snow in the autumn. From Goðafoss look for sign on the right hand side saying from both sides of the river which presents follow the road along the west bank of ‘Fremstafell’ which is the name of an a great opportunity for photographers to Skjalfandafljót River past Mýri farm where abandoned farm. From there follow a track for 3-4 km which in summer is suitable for larger cars and 4x4 vehicles. Tourist information regarding, waterfalls, local handcrafts, fishing, accommodation and activities is readily available at Fosshóll tourist information centre at Goðafoss waterfall.

Fosshóll Tourist info

Fosshóli • 641 Húsavík by Goðafoss Fast, Frequent & on schedule +354 464 3323 every day oF the week. [email protected] www.thingeyjarsveit.is Travel Agency For our flexible schedule scan BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík OR Authorised by • the QR code Icelandic Tourist Board 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is 72 www.icelandictimes.com Romantic Hotel Bláfell of East Iceland ver since the days when tourism to a wonderful day of hiking, taking an area hand-picked blueberries from the nearby NO NEED Iceland was in its infancy in the 1980s, excursion or after an invigorating stroll mountain slopes. The restaurant can seat EHotel Bláfell has been a traditional stop for along the beach. Soak away tired muscles up to 150 guests, catering to individuals travellers around the country and known in the hotel’s sauna, curl up in front of the who casually drop in for cake and coffee, as a place where you can get a good night’s fireplace with a good book from the library intimate dinners for 2 or buffet dinners for TO GO HUNGRY sleep or a hearty Icelandic meal. or just gaze into the relaxing fire. large and small groups and special occasion Located in the small town of Breiðdalsvík, The restaurant is well known for its dinners. AROUND ICELAND on Iceland’s east coast, Hotel Bláfell is a welcome oasis after a long day of driving, Get yourself a good night’s rest Hotel Bláfell offers 25 standard and deluxe rooms, all with private bath, TV and telephone. A wireless Internet connection is available in the common areas. Outside of the June-August high season, please

hiking or exploring. Constructed of pine lunch specialties such as fish casserole, check the hotel website listed below for logs from Finland, the hotel’s interior is seafood soup, Icelandic lamb soup, home- special offers. reminiscent of an alpine ski lodge and baked bread and apple cake, as well The area around the hotel offers the cheerful log fire that often roars in as a tempting cheese cake made from a variety of natural attractions and the central fireplace gives the hotel a cosy Icelandic skyr. The hotel prides itself on its activities year-round. In summer, it’s a romantic charm. traditional Icelandic cuisine, using mostly bird watcher’s paradise. There are popular It’s the perfect setting in which to end local ingredients in all its dishes—even marked hiking trails into the mountains that surround Breiðdalur or you might like to try your hand fishing for salmon or trout on one of three beautiful fishing rivers: the Breiðdalsá, Tinnudalsá or Norðurdalsá. Autumn is an ideal time to pick blueberries, bilberries or crowberries which proliferate on the surrounding hills or to spot reindeer foraging for food at lower elevations before they head back to the hills and the mating season begins.

Akureyri Húsavík Akranes Garður Akureyri Húsavík An oasis in East Iceland Blönduós Ísafjörður Akureyri Kópavogur Borgarnes Reykjanesbær Bolungarvík Neskaupstaður Bifröst Laugarvatn Grafarvogur Dalvík Ólafsfjörður Borgarfjörður eystri Mývatnssveit Grindavík Hótel Bláfell Egilsstaðir Selfoss Búðardalur Reykjanesbær Höfn Grundarfjörður Siglufjörður Djúpivogur Reykjavík Kópavogur Borgarnes Sólvöllum 14 • 760 Breiðdalsvík Hafnarfjördur Skagaströnd Eskifjörður Sandgerði Reykjanesbær +354 475 6770 Fáskrúðsfjörður Seyðisfjörður Reykjavík [email protected] Flúðir Þórshöfn www.blafell.is

74 www.icelandictimes.com So accessible lunch, a variety of cakes There are not many glacial lagoons existing and coffee, teas and soft drinks. A seafood JökulsárlónThe IconicGlacial Lagoon Jökulsárlón in the world today and certainly none that GlacierIce Jeeps& Adventure Tours buffet for groups, freshly caught arctic char are this accessible. Located just a stone’s ocated not far from Jökulsárlón Glacier Jeeps offers year-round adventure (trout) and salmon are available by special he Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon is throw from the main ring road, the lagoon in East Iceland, Glacier Jeeps Ice jeep tours using specially fitted 4WD arrangement. Incentive groups can enjoy a without a doubt at the very top of is actually much bigger and deeper than Land Adventure tours offer exhilarating vehicles, snowmobile tours and hiking tours. delicious buffet lunch right on the glacier myT list of places to see in Iceland. Not it appears. With an area measuring 23 guided glacier adventures that might be All equipment - helmets, snowsuits, snow while enjoying breathtaking views of both only is it one of my favourite places, it is square km (36.8 square miles) in size, you the one stop in Iceland that changes your boots, and snow climbing or hiking gear is the glacier and the Atlantic Ocean. one that most definitely deserves all the could easily fit the island of (in life. Exhilarating is the only word that included in the price. superlatives of the English language— the Westman Islands) into it with room to adequately describes the view from Europe’s Tours depart twice daily at 9:30 or 14:00 unbelievable, stunning, magnificent are largest glacier, the mighty Vatnajökull. from road F985, where you will begin the 16 three that instantly spring to mind. It’s the km drive up to Jöklasel Restaurant, which place, given only three or four days in the also serves as a base. This is where guests country, that I would go to first—and for get their gear for their respective tours and two reasons: then, you’re off! Each tour is approximately 3 to 3½ hours in length and there will be plenty of time for photo breaks and enjoying the view. It is possible to stop at Jöklasel for refreshments after the tour. Tours need to be booked one day in advance.

A Mountaintop Restaurant Glacier Jeeps Jöklasel Restaurant, at an altitude of 840m,

is the highest restaurant in Iceland and serves Silfurbraut 15 • 780 Hornafjörður as a base for most Glacier Jeep activities. +354 478 1000 The restaurant, which comfortably seats 80 [email protected] to 90 guests, offers a soup and salad buffet www.glacierjeeps.is spare. It’s 250 m (825 feet) depth would fit five Leaning Towers of Pisa, stacked one on top of another!

Scenic boat tours QuickSöluskálinn Meals with Amazing Views in Skaftafell Upon arrival at the lagoon, you will find a hile travelling to Skaftafell National small café where you can enjoy coffee, hot Park and Jökulsárlón, the road may chocolate, waffles, or soup and sandwiches. be long but there’s no need to go hungry! Jökulsárlón ehf offers guided boat tours W Skaftafell Söluskáli is a welcome stop by using specially equipped amphibious boats Highway 1 for some traditional Icelandic which take you further into the lagoon, food in a family-run restaurant. First, just because of the unparalleled so varied and dramatic that it makes the sailing among the icebergs. The restaurant is just 5 km east of the destination in itself. drive totally worth it. You could easily Across the road, where the lagoon flows national park, so you can enjoy your lunch The second reason is that the drive spend your entire vacation exploring the into the sea, you can walk down to the while gazing at the spectacular landscape. from Reykjavik to Jökulsárlón takes you south coast and not run out of things to water’s edge to witness the baby ‘bergs’ that After lunch, you can take in the view of the along the whole southern coast, which is see and do. dot the shoreline- a truly amazing sight! awesome Hvannadalshjúkur, the highest peak in Iceland and part of Vatnajökull Boat tours are available daily glacier. June, July and August - 9.00 to 19.00 The proprietor, Anna María 15th May - 31st May - 10.00 to 17.00 Ragnarsdóttir, was born and raised in the 15th Sept. - 30th Sept. - 10.00 to 17.00 area and has been running the restaurant for many years now, so she knows what her Jökulsárlón guests like – fast, but quality food. Over the Skaftafell Söluskáli Images by © Emily Bulajewski busy lunch hour, you’ll have your choice of Kirkjubraut 7 • 780 Hornafirði 2-3 hot home-cooked meals and for dinner Freysnes • 785 Öræfi +354 478 2122 +354 478 2242 there is always the day’s special. [email protected] [email protected] www.jokulsarlon.is They also have sandwiches, hamburgers none and all the necessities a traveller might need.

76 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 77 icebergs and the view from the left bank incredible - a 28 square km lagoon choc-a-block with icebergs of all sizes as far as the eye could see.

On the return journey, the clouds started to disperse just in time to give us a good view of the immensity of the Skaftafell National Park. A full-on sunny afternoon replete with clear blue skies accompanied us throughout the rest of the trip until our dinner stop at Vík, where the waning rays of

PrepareIceland Excursion’s South Coast • Glacialto Lagoon be Tour Impressed!

met up with Iceland Excursion’s Tour Bus dazzling strip of silver ocean glistened in the clouds told of a passing spring downpour of insider information that the guidebook which had been obscuring the lagoon from sunlight crept across the village. The driver at the N1 petrol station in Hvolsvöllur, bright sunlight. Ahead of us, distant dark freezing rain which was moving in to greet writers know little about. Having thrown in the road. The lagoon itself was packed with kept us entertained with stories about the Ithe little service community that sits right us from the coast. The weather was perfect some geology and history notes, our driver chest of gold that was once at the bottom at the doorstep of Eyafjallajökull volcano. the whole trip... and by that I don’t mean then told us some fascinating stories about of Skogafoss and my favourite, which I will Our destination - the South Coast and blue skies and sunshine all the way, for no why Icelanders believe in elves, how long it call ‘Katla and her magical skin trousers’. Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. It had just trip to Iceland would be truly complete takes to learn Icelandic, stories about a few awaited us in the twilight and snowed lightly the night before, so a new without the entire range of ever-changing famous Icelanders whose farms we were soon it was time for me to say goodbye at the coat of white graced the foothills under weather conditions to set the mood. were passing, where the best place to see little town of Hvolsvöllur, where my journey Eyafjalljökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, puffins is on the South Coast and even bits began. The Iceland Excursions’ bus sped on while patches of sunshine and blue broke This was my first proper tour in Iceland. about the present day economic situation. its way back to Reykjavik, in high hopes of through the clouds and wisps of steam I had read somewhere that seeing Iceland Clearly he knew his stuff! catching the northern lights that were due skirted the volcano’s summit. without a tour guide was like leaving to appear, thus perfecting an already perfect your glasses at home —and I would have After a stop for lunch at day on Iceland’s south coast. We travelled past the farms and fields to say that I wholeheartedly agree! It was Kirkjubæjarklaustur, we eventually reached Would I do it all over again any that just one year ago, had been threatened wonderful to be able to leave the driving Jökulsárlón. This is the place where a time soon? In a heartbeat! with the prospect of being submerged to someone else, so I could just relax and massive glacial tongue from Vatnajökull Iceland Excursions under a thick carpet of ash - the evidence enjoy the constantly changing weather and stops abruptly to deposit huge chunks of

of which was still apparent in places. The landscape as it unfolded before us. Our 1,000 year-old ice into the lagoon. The Hafnarstraeti 20 • 101 Reykjavík craggy peaks on the way to Vik were even driver/tour guide was full of interesting startlingly beautiful blues and brilliant +354 540 1313 more hauntingly beautiful shrouded, as knowledge about the area, not only about whites of the icebergs suddenly come into [email protected] they were, in mist and rain. Behind us, a what we were seeing, but a whole lot of view from behind several hills of ancient lava www.grayline.is

78 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 79 the best that Iceland has to offer... mountainous archipelago and home to 10 April 2011. Providing Only 106 km from Reykjavik, Hvolsvöllur million puffins, or roughly half of the puffin visitors with breathtaking photos and videos is surrounded with plentiful recreation areas population in Iceland. chronicling the events, before, during and and natural wonders all within 15 minutes To herald the 1st anniversary of the after the eruption, the centre also will also to one hour’s drive: Eyjafjalljökull eruption, Thorvaldseyri house a cinema and gift shop with books, Fimmvörðuháls: This already famous Farm opened an exciting visitor centre in brochures and souvenirs. Located on the hiking route got even more famous when underground lava tunnels cracked the earth open right across the hiking path in March 2010. Thousands of people from around the world made the 10-hour round trip trek to watch the lava show, while others hired a helicopter to get the view from above. The mountain pass is open once again to visitors. Thórsmörk (Þórsmörk) Mountain Reserve is one of the most popular hiking areas in Iceland and with Icelanders. It is only reachable by specially-fitted 4x4s or tour buses which can ford the many glacial rivers in the area. A great place to see the geological changes that the recent eruption brought to the area. Seljalandsfoss is the only waterfall in Iceland that you can walk behind. Located at the foot of Eyafjallajökull glacier, it is a 10 minute drive from Hvolsvöllur. Many a marriage has been proposed at this waterfall! Skogarfoss waterfall, the Skogar Folk Museum, with its indoor and outdoor exhibits, its fantastic turf houses and 19th century buildings that take you back 100 Hvolsvöllur in Bloom years or so. Westman Islands: The new harbour opened in July 2010 and you and your car he 21st of April marks the first day of alike all converge to top up their petrol Take it slow can hop over to the island in just a short summer in Iceland. Schools and most tanks, their water bottles and their bellies Icelanders who know their country well, 25 minute ferry ride, a great way to see this businessesT close and the national flag flies before going onwards. With 350 km of flock out to their summer houses, rent a high throughout the land. This is also the magnificently varied but sparsely-populated summer cabin or make use of one of the ring road, 15 km east of Hvolsvöllur. day that the unassuming little inland village land separating Hvolsvöllur and next major many camp grounds in Hvolsvöllur every The Open Farms Project is an innovative of Hvolsvöllur springs to life, gearing up to town of Höfn, it’s not just a good idea to summer. Our mission is to divulge a few of programme which began in 2007, giving receive the many thousands of visitors who stop here, it’s a must! the area’s hidden gems to you. Hvolsvöllur visitors to Iceland an opportunity to visit stop here every year. Tourists and Icelanders is, after all, one of the portals to the some of a working farm in rural areas all over the Family Friendly Hvolsvöllur country. In cooperation with Icelandic Farm The Farmers’ Market in the town centre, Holidays and The Farmers’ Association just next to the post office is one of the of Iceland, there are two farms in the main gathering spots for residents of Hvolsvöllur area which are a part in the Hvolsvöllur. Here you will find a variety of project: Stóra-Mörk II and Ásólfsskáli. locally-produced food stuffs for sale, hand knitted items of all kinds, handicrafts by Hvolsvöllur local artisans, original wooden toys and

superb organic ice cream. A lovely green Hlíðarvegur 16 • 860 Hvolsvöllur space for stretching your legs is adjacent to +354 488 4200 the farmers’ market and hosts an outdoor [email protected] exhibition by local area photographers. www.hvolsvollur.is

80 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 81 the signs just after a small bridge and sheep Goðaland Guest House in Fljótshlíð sorting pens on the right. We are set back Visiting Iceland? We’re just as excited as you are! from the road about 100 metres, on the right hand side. Viking Tours of the Westman Islands volcano...you know, that one that nobody ountainous, mysterious, and one Enjoy your stay in Iceland and 10 million puffins can’t be wrong can pronounce—Eyafjallajökull. of those places on virtually every In staggering numbers, these adorable Goðaland Guest House looks The guest house is located in a building tourist’s wish list. Seen from the mainland, birds flock to the archipelago year forward to your visit! M that was, once upon a time, a primary the jagged archipelago rises dramatically after year, the first arriving on schedule school. Recently refurbished in part as a from the horizon, breaking the horizon of around the 12th-14th of April. “The best guest house, it still retains something of its Iceland’s south coast with a sort of ‘come time of day to see them is in the late schoolish charm and personality. The sturdy hither’ look that you cannot evade. The afternoon and early evening when the building, built to withstand earthquakes Herólfur ferry, at its brand new port just puffin parents return to their burrows and the onslaught of a small army of outside of the town of Hvolsvöllur, plies after spending the day fishing on the primary school-age kids, is now ready for the waters that separate the islands from the sea”, says Sigurmundur. the onslaught of visitors to Iceland! mainland, making the easy 25 -30 minute We know Iceland can be expensive, so to crossing several times a day. Now you have celebrate the opening of Goðaland Guest no excuse not to see the Westman Islands! House, we have a special offer! Show us your April/May edition of Icelandic Times and The Circle Tour you’ll receive a 20% discount off your entire A fun and refreshing way to sight-see in the stay, including breakfast, anytime during Westman Islands, Viking Tours’ specially Goðaland Guest House ith space for 20 adventurous guests, April or May 2011. Sweet! designed tour boat takes you around the

Goðaland Guest House is right in Goðaland Guest House is easy to find— Fjlótshlíðarvegur, 861 Hvolsvöllur main island of Heimaey, 2 or 3 times a theW heart of Fljótshlíð, South Iceland - one on paved roads all the way from Reykjavik. +354 697 9280 day in summer. The 90 minute tour gives of the most picturesque farming districts In Hvolsvöllur, take road no. F261 in the [email protected] you a chance to peak into caves, observe in the country and within view of that direction of Fljótshlíð, for 10 km. Watch for www.godaland-guesthouse.com puffins and concludes with the haunting saxophone music which fills the singing cave of Klettshellur, renowned for its superb acoustics and performed beautifully by Sigurmundur Einarsson, director of Viking Whale watching in the Westman Tours. Islands With whole families of Killer Whales and Iceland Tour Services The Coach Tour dolphins arriving in July, the Westman Another delightful way to explore the island Islands is a great place for whale watching, is by Viking Tours’ coach which departs boasting the largest population of these sea We are a small fully licensed from the main harbour every day, year mammals in Iceland. Viking Tours can family bus and Travel agency in round. The guided tour takes you to the still- organise a whale watching tour for you on Iceland. Our fleet is of the highest warm Eldfell crater which erupted over the request. quality and includes buses of all whole island in 1973, the effects of which All Viking Tours trips begin and end types and sizes. are easily observable throughout Heimaey. at the cosy Café Kró down at the main You will also get a chance to observe puffins harbour, where you can take in the 55 We provide first class services at Stórhöfði. minute film about the 1973 eruption and to groups, individuals and travel learn how this singular event changed the agencies that need ground face of the Westman Islands forever. transportation or guided tours to any location in Iceland. See you this summer in the Westman Islands! Quick transfer from or to the airport, we can also arrange for Viking Tours short or long sightseeing trips in and around Reykjavik. Suðurgerði 4 • 900 +354 488 4884 Please feel free to contact us for more information via email or phone. [email protected] Best regards www.vikingtours.is Time tours and Time travel / [email protected] / www.timetours.is Tel: +354 578 7111 / Mobil: +354 869 7111 saf www.icelandictimes.com 83 IcelandSightseeing the Viking way! Riverjet Bjarkarhóllhether you’re just stopping off for Not a professional? No problem! Here, he Vikings first travelled up rivers with a coffee and hand-made pralines at you can learn from people with experience their wooden boats over 1,000 years Cafe Mika or taking a thrill on the RiverJet, in the special techniques for this kind of W ago but their spirit is still here. or simply passing through Reykholt, this is knitting. Once you’re hooked, you’ll want to T The boats are better; oars have been a good opportunity to browse the tourist get your own yarn and patterns to take home replaced with an engine and these Vikings shop. Packed with souvenirs to remind with you - and Garn provides a wide range are a whole lot nicer. Now you can go you of Iceland, the shop also has a special of yarn, not only their own brand or from ‘sightseeing the Viking way’ with Iceland feature. Iceland but also specially imported from Riverjet. Offering a fascinating pastime for China and Turkey. Everything you need to Jet boating up the Hvítá River below the young and old, Garn provides wool and produce top quality items is available here. waterfall is extreme in excitement knitting patterns to make sweaters, hats, When you have finished touring the and thrills! Having no physical requirements, gloves - or just about anything that can shop, you may find you have too much to and white water rapids. The extreme tour this adventure is for everybody over 10 years takes about 2 hours, with bigger waves and old. stronger rapids, kicking the sightseeing up The boats are custom built from thick a notch! Trips run from April to October aluminum and powered by specially adapted every day and every hour. V8-400 hp engines. With a water jet instead Iceland Riverjet is the first commercial

Chocolate Taken toCafé New Mika Levels be made with wool! They publish Björk take home with you. Again, this is not a f you enjoy European chocolate, Café Mika langoustine speciality. This is a small lobster magazine, packed with ideas and patterns problem. Garn will ship internationally and will set your taste buds awhirl hand-made that has much better texture and flavour than for producing professional-looking knit has a very modern facility set up for efficient Ipralines, created with delicious high quality its larger cousin. wear, both by Icelandic designers and some processing of orders. chocolate as you sip your coffee. Made without Mika may be experimenting with one of his translated from the Italian ‘Filatura’ and the Should you get home and find you want additives, their taste is totally different from sauces, giving you a new taste to your palate. Norwegian ‘Drops’ companies. This is not at more supplies, www.garn.is, their website, has the mass-produced varieties. This rare treat is You just have to try his langoustine with chilli all the province of old ladies, as many young a comprehensive presentation of everything something you will want to savour longer, so glaze and white chocolate sauce! designers have brought fresh new ideas available and an online shop where you can you can stock up from the ever-growing range For there are, of course, and designs to complement the traditional place your order. Never has it been easier to that Mika is creating and take home a box. and ice cream and here, too, Mika offers patterns that are still so popular. Anyone make fashionable woolen clothes or purchase They can last up to 3 months - but you only delicious creations, with a varied range of with reasonable dexterity can produce ready-made knitwear of all types! if you have an iron will or a huge stock for tastes and textures to tempt your pallate. of a propeller, they can travel in depths as jet boat company in Europe, founded in beautiful products to be proud of! Take home a special Viking sweater to them to survive that long! If you’re the sharing A wide range of snacks and meals are shallow as 10 cm at speeds up to 75 km/hr. 2010 by the Norwegian, Cato Bergnord. He keep you warm all year round! Whilst at type of person, you will want to buy him out! available in Café Mika in the new Bjarkahóll, They are highly maneuverable and can safely has over 17 years of white water experience Bjarkahóll, you can also take advantage of Actually, companies will be able to make a all home-made to a high quality, so don’t be jump waves, go through rapids and do 360 and is a licensed jet boat pilot from New the Internet connection to check your mail special order with their company logo on them surprised if you are asking your tour guide to degree spins on a coin. Zealand. Take a look at their website for or go online. after the summer is over. Now you know what delay departure! The riverjet tour lasts half a day with a further information and a movie of a trip! Bjarkarhóll to ask your boss for Christmas! pick-up at your hotel in Reykjavik to the Café Mika Iceland Riverjet Mika is not only a chocolatier but an new Bjarkahóll in Reykholt. There are two Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt innovative chef as well. Since you have no Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt tours: standard and extreme, varying only in Skólabraut 4 • 801 Reykholt +354 587 6655 doubt built up a healthy appetite on your tour, +354 896 6450 length and degree of thrills. The 45-minute +354 863 4506 [email protected] a good meal is in order! Mika uses locally- [email protected] ride in the 11-seat boat takes you through [email protected] www.garn.is produced ingredients in his dishes and has a on Facebook spectacular lava canyons, beautiful scenery www.icelandriverjet.is

84 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 85 all over Iceland. Unlike the store-bought Kaffi Klettur is open every day in summer property with all the kleinur found in other countries, these are and every weekend in winter. Groups can be services including electricity and, of course, hand-made, small and crisp. It is likely received at any time and there is plenty of hot water from the hot springs, giving Baked Kaffiin Klettur the brings refreshment Hot to the Golden Springs!Circle that you haven’t tried this pastry that is so parking space available. you the freedom to enjoy the surrounding eading out to Geysir and Gullfoss, For the children, there is a play area - if family excel! Whilst an international cuisine popular in this country, so this is the best If you like to eat food fresh from the fields nature, river and mountains. you’ve been driving for awhile and they haven’t already built up a good appetite. is available, this is the place to try traditional place to do so. or the river and you’re in the Reykholt area, Hcould do with a break. Coming to Reykholt, They will also find some farming machinery Icelandic food in its natural surroundings! What are kleinur? Kleinur are an Icelandic there’s a lovely place to stop and experience a from past generations on the lawn. Horses Whether lamb or freshly-caught trout or pastry, specially formed, that are both cristp delicious meal made from locally-produced frequently pass by, adding to the experience. salmon from the nearby Tunguflot river, and melt in the mouth. One you try them, ingredients in the most captivating wooden garnished with locally-grown vegetables and you will see why they are so popular! ‘Christmas House’, surrounded by a copse. potatoes, you’ll enjoy the Icelandic cuisine. In fact, during the Christmas period, the Make sure you try the delicious rhubarb pie lights on the house bring an old traditional for desert! charm to it, making it look like it comes The Reykholt area specialises in vegetables straight from a Christmas card! of different varieties, so freshness is Snug and warm amid the winter snows, it guaranteed. Food here is grown as naturally is transformed in summer to an delightful as possible - and you’ll experience that in the place to eat outside, surrounded by green rich taste of the meals here. trees and soft grass, as you relax with your meal on the veranda, under the sun, Kleinur - the Icelandic pastry sheltered from the wind by the surrounding Everything is home-baked. Steinunn’s trees. kleinur are so popular, they are shipped

Hot Spring Bread The smell of bread, freshly-baked in the hot springs on the hill above the restaurant, is enough to stimulate the taste buds of the this is a meal not to miss. No booking is Guesthouse for travellers surrounding area. The springs give Reykholt needed. No tent? The small guesthouse offers its name - ‘Smokey hill’, as the steam can be comfort at an economical rate and it is seen for miles around, rising high into the Camping among the trees easy to venture out into the surrounding sky. How often can you say you’ve tried ‘hot If you have a camper, caravan, tent, or tent countryside using it as a base. Inside, Kaffi Klettur is decorated with spring bread’? trailer, there is a sheltered campsite on the With your meals available from Kaffi farm and household items from the past. As Klettur, you won’t have to worry about what you look around, you may well find things to cook! you don’t recognise. They offer a fascinating It is very easy to find both the restaurant, insight into the life and history of the area. campsite and guesthouse. When you come See if you can see how to harness a horse into Reykholt, simply turn right just past the for pulling a plough or cart or guess the use petrol station and they’re immediately there of some of the other items hanging on the on your left. walls. Kaffi Klettur

Fresh from the fields and river Skólabraut 1 • 801 Reykholti No matter how romantic or beautiful the +354 486 1310 house or its situation, it’s the food by which a [email protected] restaurant is judged. Here Steinunn and her www.kaffiklettur.is

86 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 87 inside the houses and outside in the gardens. that is slowly being The kitten house is always a favourite with revealed as more people post pictures, many children, as they can hold and pet the videos and reviews on the Internet - but no

Slakki Zoo & Play Centre kittens for as long as they wish - and that can web browsing can replace the experience of be a long time! happy children with shining faces enjoying Even farmers come with their families, nature in the safety of the zoo farm! With lose to wondering why their children love it so such a large range of animals so easily S k á l h o l t much when they have animals at home! accessible and so patient with them, the cC a t h e d r a l , i n Families will frequently stay all day - even children gain in so many ways. Compared Laugarás, is a zoo and when they were only planning a short visit! to stuffed animals and TV, real life always play centre that is very It’s hard to leave. It’s wins hands-down! popular with families on good, therefore, Since it is on the Golden Circle, it makes a day out. With so much that Slakki has a a beautiful addition to a tour - and a great space, it never seems crowded. restaurant and café moment for a snack break It’s the kind of place where refreshments with and some fun, being adults can enjoy themselves as home-made snacks, just 5 minutes off much as the children, which probably including delicious the main road! accounts for its popularity! hamburgers with salad It’s a petting zoo and apple cakes with with all the Icelandic cream, available. The farm animals that the café is in a small turf children love to pet house, with plenty of and enjoy in safe seating outside to eat the yummy, locally-made Kjöris icecream in the sun. Slakki’s indoor zoo is open from 1pm - 5pm on the last weekend Slakki Zoo world, a large aquarium, a playground kinds and to play in the playground, whilst of April and the entire zoo is open

and an inside putting green and crazy golf parents can enjoy themselves, too, knowing every weekend in May and then every day Launrétt 1 • 801 Selfoss by Laugarás surroundings. course, pool table and lounge, Slakki makes their children are safe. From horses to mice, throughout the summer months, until +354 868 7626 With birds from a lovely place for the family! Children love from pigs to ponies and every size and shape the end of August. [email protected] different parts of the the opportunity to play with animals of all in between, all the animals are enjoyed Slakki is one of Iceland’s secrets on Facebook

88 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 89 and features that made (for those staying the Park a World Heritage site extend to in Hveragerði and the surrounding area, making this truly a Surf Iceland’s South Coast surrounding areas) Elegance in Tranquility Affordable Iceland Activities Grímsborgir memorable place to spend a holiday or hold Guided hiking, biking and walking celebration, an event, a conference or celand Activities is one of only three of the most active geothermal areas of tours in and around Hveragerði and the simply a desire for a break from the companies in the whole of Iceland to the country. With 20 years experience Hengill Geothermal area are rated from normA - whatever the reason, finding the Ioffer this sport that is, let’s face it, a rare in Hveragerði behind them, Iceland easy to strenuous and suitable for all ages. ideal location that projects the standard phenomenon indeed in this arctic island Activities offers many exciting tours You ride over 1,100 year-old sheep paths you seek can be quite a challenge. There are nation. The south coast of Iceland offers from 2 hours to all day tours—hiking high up in the mountains that criss-cross many options and countries to choose from. endless possibilities for surfers, from tours, bike tours, bike rentals and group this magnificent volcanic area and then However, if you want something different novices to the more experienced, who are activities that are perfect for all levels of take a dip in a geothermally-heated river. that will be remembered, it really has to be passionate about catching the waves. In ability. A memorable way to experience Iceland’s exceptional. A trip to Iceland certainly fits that category, but if you want to impress or simply enjoy an elegant lifestyle whilst surrounded Fun, affordable and fantastic by spectacular but tranquil beauty, a stay in Iceland Activities of Hveragerði. one of the towns or cities would not meet your desires - even in Iceland! close enough to the Þingvellir (Thingvellir) an event. A 45 minute car drive will take you out of National Park to enjoy its beauty and visit When you want to do more than relax, all urban areas and into a natural wilderness its unique sights, without being disturbed there are opportunities for trout and salmon of pristine beauty. To enjoy it would, until by other visitors. The exceptional beauty fishing, two 18-hole and three 9-hole golf courses, guided tours or personal trips to the many famous sights and horse riding centres. This is like having your own house, fully furnished and equipped, with the option of either making your own meals or dining at the reasonably-priced restaurant. Whether you just want to enjoy the view from the comfort of your lounge or from the hot tub or take a walk in the nature to enjoy the wildlife and birds, this is a serene location summer especially, the water temperature Set your own pace - Iceland by Bike very special mid-summer midnight sun for that you will find to be reinvigorating and is not as cold as you might think...and for Exploring Iceland by bike is a healthy and the whole family. relaxing. In summer, the late night sun beginners, Iceland Activities can provide enjoyable way to explore Iceland on your casts a heavenly glow and in the winter, an experienced surfing instructor as well own. Iceland Activities rents quality bikes Hotsprings around Hveragerði Tour the Northern Lights dance across the clear as all the equipment you need, at very anywhere from 4 hours to 3 days or longer, Not many towns around the world can night skies. reasonable prices. and come complete with bicycle helmet, boast a geothermal area right in their The restaurant is open to both guests and Iceland Activities is based in maps and suggested itinerary. Iceland own backyard. Iceland Activities offers an visitors. Small and exclusive, it can seat 60 Hveragerði, the small greenhouse town Activities will even deliver your bike right exclusive guided bike tour in and around diners in comfort. The menu includes a just 38 km from Reykjavik and one to your hotel, guest house or campground, Hveragerði and then takes you to observe wide range of traditional Icelandic courses the new geothermal park that was created and home-made breads and pastries. by an earthquake in 2008. Have fun boiling recently, have required a tent and sleeping Booking may be made online, by phone eggs in one of the many hot springs and end bag, however. Not quite what you were after! or email. Ólafur and Kristín live on site the day at the Hveragerði swimming pool. © Styrmir Kári and are available to make your stay the best ‘Your pace is our pace’ Combining Luxury and Beauty it can be - you only have to ask! is the company motto With a vision to bring luxury accommodation to the breathtaking Grímsborgir Icelandic Activities Icelandic countryside, along with a high class restaurant, an international menu Ásborgir 30 • 801 Selfoss Mánamörk 3-5 • 810 Hveragerði and wine list, Ólafur Laufdal and Kristín +354 555 7878 +354-777-6263 Ketilsdóttir built a group of spacious and [email protected] [email protected] www.icelandactivities.is finely-appointed houses by the river Sog and www.grimsborgir.com

90 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 91 suggestions and maps to help you get the most out of your stay GuesthouseFrumskógar & Holiday Apartments in Hveragerði.

he friendly Frumskógar Guest House, The Freedom of Self-Catered Fosshótel 38 km from Reykjavik, is located in Apartments theT ‘green’ town of Hveragerði, known Nestled amongst trees in the residential for its abundant geothermal energy and area of town, Frumskógar offers 5 Reykholt greenhouses. self-contained, one-bedroom holiday flats, accommodating 2 to 4 people, at Peaceful surroundings in a historic place. reasonable rates. Cook your own meals in Restaurant Valhöll concentrates on local the fully-equipped kitchen and after a full ingredients just waiting to tickle your tastebuds. day of exploring nature just outside the door, a hot tub and sauna welcomes you out on the patio and is available for use Come join us for a relaxing stay in one of by all guests. Iceland´s most important historic place.

The Guest House The small, painted timber guest house has 4 double rooms and 1 single room with shared bathrooms. All guests may Guesthouse Frumskógar order the hearty and nutritious breakfast

in the large breakfast room which also Frumskogar 3 • 810 Hveragerði doubles as a common area during the day +354 896 2780 and where you can take advantage of the [email protected] free Internet access. Owners Morten and www.frumskogar.is Kolbrún have prepared detailed day trip

We are Book now at www.fosshotel.is ready For your visit

Fosshótel reykholt / 320 reykholt / tel: 435 1260 e-MaIl: [email protected] / www.fosshotel.is 92 www.icelandictimes.com with pastries, pasta, cakes and biscuits. As much as possible, ingredients are organic local produce - and AlmarStone-baked Health Bakery around Hveragerði is an area where a lot of ravelling the Ring Road’s southern grain taken out and replaced with additives food is grown, so it is really fresh. fork, you have probably been driving then sealed in a plastic bag, the idea of In good weather, you can eat outside. longT enough to take a break when you fresh-baked, healthy bread must seem quite It’s the ideal place for a healthy break and a reach the garden town of Hveragerði. foreign, with its crunchy crust and delicious chance to stock up for your onward journey. Nestled under the mountains that separate flavour. The bakery also makes food packs up for you Reykjavik from the south, steam rises up Almar bakes its bread on hot stones in to take with you on your trip - or, if you’re from hot springs, as this is one of Iceland’s staying in a summer-house or campsite, to most prolific geothermal areas. Earthquakes eat during your stay. A simple, yet inspired have shaken things up a bit, too - but the idea, it takes all the hassle out of shopping. more likely cause of the rumbling is your Just grab a pack and you’re set up for the stomach hoping to be refilled! next few days. Shopping before you leave is not necessary - why not just hop in the car and get your food as you’re travelling. It’s always good

to take a break - and you can be sure any children with you will definitely need one! At the heart of Hveragerði’s shopping geothermally-heated ovens. No polluting It’s always nice when there are ‘specials’ centre stands Almar Bakery. To those used fossil fuels here. This is as natural as you can and the bakery is no exception. A cheap to shopping in large supermarkets with their get - and the taste testifies to it! snack is the delicious, freshly-made, mass-produced, air filled, bleached white The bakery has a whole range of healthy wholesome soup. The soup with pasta or bread, with all the goodness of the natural breads, buns and sandwiches, along buns are a very healthy and filling meal that will sustain you for hours to come. And the earthquakes? Don’t miss out on the earthquake simulator in the Information Centre! It has some surprises!

Almar Bakery

Sunnumörk 2 • 810 Hveragerði +354 483 1919 [email protected] none

94 www.icelandictimes.com Whale watching

We are one of the leading tour operators in Iceland and offer professional services, flexibility and safety for travellers in Iceland.

Allow us to introduce you to the variety that Iceland has to offer; from its richness in culture and history to its breathtaking beauty in nature and daily life.

Enjoy Iceland with Iceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland

Gullfoss

Taste the Saga Geysir area

Þingvellir National Park

( Like-yar-torg)

Visit our sales office at Lækjartorg square, call us at (+354) 540 1313 or go to www.grayline.is.