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Entrenched in Sumatra's Misty Green Highlands, Berastagi Is a Small Town

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Entrenched in Sumatra's Misty Green Highlands, Berastagi Is a Small Town 108 Travel | Berastagi BERASTAGI Entrenched in Sumatra’s misty green highlands, Berastagi is a small town, stunningly verdant and cool compared to its bustling city cousin of Medan, 70km northward. Medan local Suwandi Chandra hits the road to explore this quaint agricultural escape and its resilient people. Words and photography by Suwandi Chandra Travel | Berastagi 109 The magnificent view ofMount Sinabung just spewing its volcanic ashes to the sky and directly to the storm cloud brewing above it to create the very complex view by mother nature. 110 Travel | Berastagi Berastagi sits high (at about 1,300m) between two of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes. Mount Sibayak (2,212m) commands its place on the skyline due north, while Mount Sinabung (2,460m) towers even higher due west. The fertile volcanic hills in between them sprawl with rich rainforests, picturesque green fields and of course the town itself, which enjoys a cool climate all year round thanks to its strategic location. It’s no wonder this hilly little town is a popular weekend getaway for my fellow Medan-ites. Berastagi is more than just a small town, however. It’s actually the main town here – with a population of just fewer than 50,000 – and technically it’s a subdistrict of the greater Karo Regency, linking the Karo highlands to the coastal city of Medan. I’m compelled to call it a small town for its charmingly quaint surrounds. Up to the 1900s Berastagi was but a village. It rose to prominence as a town in the 1920s when Dutch colonialists, attracted by the lush environs and cool climate, built a boarding school here. Before being settled by the Dutch, the village was known for its rice agriculture and trade, which is where the town gets its name; Berastagi in the local dialect means ‘rice store’. Today you’ll find more than rice being sold in the markets. Berastagi is famous for its vegetables, fruits and flowers, which flourish in the cooler climate, and its very fertile soil. One weekend I took the drive down from Medan, passing several villages and dense national forests along narrow roads coiling tightly upslope. After a good hour of driving I switched off my car’s aircon and cracked the window – letting in great wafts of revitalising, crisp, cool mountain-fresh air. About ten more minutes up the road I pulled in at my first stop: a steamed and barbecued sweetcorn roadside stall. I ordered one of each, along with a hot sweet tea to quench my thirst. The location of the roadside stall is a bit precarious – at the edge of the (very) narrow cliff – but the construction looks I’m lucky to be just an sturdy, and at this altitude the sweeping hour and a half away from panoramic views are completely worth it. Lush green valleys and dense forests are all Berastagi. In Medan we’re around, and on a clear day you can see the well accustomed to the hustle expanse of forest swaddling the defiant concrete of Medan far in the distance. and bustle, equatorial heat I finish my sweet, juicy corn and and traffic that come with continue on my way. living in one of Indonesia’s I’d arranged accommodation at Nachelle ever-burgeoning capital cities. Homestay, right beside the town’s main road But just under 70km south of and just a ten-minute walk from Berastagi The view of the lush green valley city centre. It is a shophouse-style and dense national forest along the city, Berastagi offers accommodation, run by a lovely couple, the route to Berastagi. respite from all of that. Mery and Abdy. The rooms and amenities Travel | Berastagi 111 are modest, but it’s clean and comfortable with all the necessities provided, including hot water. Abdy, my host-cum-guide here in Berastagi, is a local man who speaks fluent English, French and Indonesian as well as the local Karo dialect. He took me up to the rooftop to show me the view: quite stunning. Mount Sinabung stood tall and proud, and all of a sudden it spat a plume of volcanic ash upward into the air. I was concerned at first, but Abdy assured me it was not a major eruption. Living next to a highly active volcano comes with a different set of challenges. He calmly gave me a mask to wear and suggested that we explore outside the city while waiting for the ash to settle. He took me to see the Sipiso-piso waterfalls, about 45 minutes from the homestay. Sipiso-piso literally means ‘knives’, the falls named for the jagged cliff walls from which they drop 120m to the narrow gorge below. It’s an absorbing sight. As a bonus, just opposite the falls you can see the northernmost tip of Indonesia’s biggest lake, Lake Toba. On the way back into town, we stopped by two traditional villages – Dokan and Lingga – both of which still maintain the old Batak Karo way of life. One of the most distinctive aspects of their culture is their traditional Batak Karo architecture, which produces characterful houses of a unique square shape with angular facets and defining horned roofs. The water-buffalo horns on the roof are believed to protect the house’s occupants from danger and to ward off bad spirits. The beautiful painted patterns too have their own individual significance. The Karo people are natural craftsmen and artists. How could they not be inspired by the magnificent nature that they call their home? Abdy tells me one house typically fits eight families with only separators between each family inside the house. The locals’ houses and vegetable fields located at We headed back to the homestay and called the foot of Mount Sinabung it a day. Back in town the ash had settled and – an active volcano. the vibrant greenery surrounding Berastagi was now covered in a fine grey. August 29, The easy-to-moderate 2010, marked the last major eruption of hiking trail to the Mount Sinabung following 400 years of other active volcano, dormancy, forcing 30,000 people to be Mount Sibayak. Recent Mount Sinabung Eruptions 2010 2013 2014 On August 29, 2010, On September 15, On February 1, 2014, the volcano experienced 2013, the volcano a further eruption a minor eruption after erupted again. More occurred that sent being inactive for than 3,700 people clouds of hot ash over four centuries. were evacuated. 2km into the air. 112 Travel | Berastagi evacuated. It has been quietly rumbling with over 25 smaller intermittent eruptions since then. I was in awe to see the people of Berastagi back in their town resuming their lives even as the mighty mountain continues to grumble. The next day Mother Nature was kinder to us. Abdy told me the winds had changed direction and were now blowing ash away from the town. Mery prepared a traditional dish as a special 5 Senses – Sight treat to start the day. Arsik is A SLICE OF a traditional Batak dish of carp cooked with a rare spice called MYANMAR andaliman, which is related to Sichuan pepper. The colour of the carp was predominantly yellow because of the turmeric and the flavourful flesh was beautifully moist, soft and tender. She served it with rice, the perfect side dish as the fish had a wonderful curry-like The way these people have shown (but more pungent) aroma. resilience and carried on with their Abdy had a surprise for me too. Later that day we drove up to lives is as inspiring as the majestic Mount Sinabung and trekked mountains themselves. up to a safe spot to enjoy the sunset. We were joined by many This temple is the largest locals who also made the trek Buddhist pagoda in Indonesia. to appreciate this gift of nature Though the road to reach it is a in their back yard, despite little rough and tumble, it’s well the disconcerting mood the worth the journey. The temple mountain had been in not more looks majestic as the brilliant gold than 24 hours earlier. How the contrasts with the surrounding recent eruptions have affected blue skies and green jungles. the fair people of Berastagi is sad It was built as a smaller replica of and unfortunate, yet at the same the Shwedagon Pagoda Temple time the way these people in Yangon, Myanmar. Everyone is have shown resilience and welcome to explore, but be sure carried on with their lives is to keep quiet and show respect as inspiring as the majestic as there are people who are there mountains themselves. to pray and meditate. www.tamanalamlumbini.org Kuil ini merupakan kuil The unique shape of the Batak Buddha terbesar di Indonesia. Karo house roof with its colourful Walaupun jalan menuju tempat ornaments and the water-buffalo ini agak sulit dan berat, Taman horns looking down at the top of it, Alam Lumbini tetap layak untuk which locals believe can protect the dikunjungi. Kuil tersebut tampil house’s occupants. megah dengan warna emas yang kontras dengan warna biru langit The carved gecko ornaments dan hijau hutan di sekitarnya. surrounding the outer walls of the Tempat ini dibangun mirip house are believed to protect the dengan—namun lebih kecil dari house from evil spirits. —kuil Pagoda Shwedagon di A colourful painted wood-carved Yangon, Myanmar. Siapa pun ornament on the wall of the house. dapat mengunjungi kuil ini, namun Anda harus menjaga One of the traditional Batak ketenangan dan menghormati Karo houses located at Dokan mereka yang tengah beribadah Batak village. dan bermeditasi.
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