108 Travel | Berastagi

BERASTAGI

Entrenched in ’s misty green highlands, Berastagi is a small town, stunningly verdant and cool compared to its bustling city cousin of , 70km northward. Medan local Suwandi Chandra hits the road to explore this quaint agricultural escape and its resilient people.

Words and photography by Suwandi Chandra Travel | Berastagi 109

The magnificent view ofMount Sinabung just spewing its volcanic ashes to the sky and directly to the storm cloud brewing above it to create the very complex view by mother nature. 110 Travel | Berastagi

Berastagi sits high (at about 1,300m) between two of Sumatra’s most active volcanoes. Mount Sibayak (2,212m) commands its place on the skyline due north, while (2,460m) towers even higher due west. The fertile volcanic hills in between them sprawl with rich rainforests, picturesque green fields and of course the town itself, which enjoys a cool climate all year round thanks to its strategic location. It’s no wonder this hilly little town is a popular weekend getaway for my fellow Medan-ites.

Berastagi is more than just a small town, however. It’s actually the main town here – with a population of just fewer than 50,000 – and technically it’s a subdistrict of the greater Karo Regency, linking the Karo highlands to the coastal city of Medan. I’m compelled to call it a small town for its charmingly quaint surrounds. Up to the 1900s Berastagi was but a village. It rose to prominence as a town in the 1920s when Dutch colonialists, attracted by the lush environs and cool climate, built a boarding school here.

Before being settled by the Dutch, the village was known for its rice agriculture and trade, which is where the town gets its name; Berastagi in the local dialect means ‘rice store’. Today you’ll find more than rice being sold in the markets. Berastagi is famous for its vegetables, fruits and flowers, which flourish in the cooler climate, and its very fertile soil.

One weekend I took the drive down from Medan, passing several villages and dense national forests along narrow roads coiling tightly upslope. After a good hour of driving I switched off my car’s aircon and cracked the window – letting in great wafts of revitalising, crisp, cool mountain-fresh air. About ten more minutes up the road I pulled in at my first stop: a steamed and barbecued sweetcorn roadside stall. I ordered one of each, along with a hot sweet tea to quench my thirst. The location of the roadside stall is a bit precarious – at the edge of the (very) narrow cliff – but the construction looks I’m lucky to be just an sturdy, and at this altitude the sweeping hour and a half away from panoramic views are completely worth it. Lush green valleys and dense forests are all Berastagi. In Medan we’re around, and on a clear day you can see the well accustomed to the hustle expanse of forest swaddling the defiant concrete of Medan far in the distance. and bustle, equatorial heat I finish my sweet, juicy corn and and traffic that come with continue on my way. living in one of ’s I’d arranged accommodation at Nachelle ever-burgeoning capital cities. Homestay, right beside the town’s main road But just under 70km south of and just a ten-minute walk from Berastagi The view of the lush green valley city centre. It is a shophouse-style and dense national forest along the city, Berastagi offers accommodation, run by a lovely couple, the route to Berastagi. respite from all of that. Mery and Abdy. The rooms and amenities Travel | Berastagi 111

are modest, but it’s clean and comfortable with all the necessities provided, including hot water.

Abdy, my host-cum-guide here in Berastagi, is a local man who speaks fluent English, French and Indonesian as well as the local Karo dialect. He took me up to the rooftop to show me the view: quite stunning. Mount Sinabung stood tall and proud, and all of a sudden it spat a plume of volcanic ash upward into the air. I was concerned at first, but Abdy assured me it was not a major eruption. Living next to a highly active volcano comes with a different set of challenges. He calmly gave me a mask to wear and suggested that we explore outside the city while waiting for the ash to settle. He took me to see the Sipiso-piso waterfalls, about 45 minutes from the homestay. Sipiso-piso literally means ‘knives’, the falls named for the jagged cliff walls from which they drop 120m to the narrow gorge below. It’s an absorbing sight. As a bonus, just opposite the falls you can see the northernmost tip of Indonesia’s biggest lake, Lake Toba.

On the way back into town, we stopped by two traditional villages – Dokan and Lingga – both of which still maintain the old Karo way of life. One of the most distinctive aspects of their culture is their traditional Batak Karo architecture, which produces characterful houses of a unique square shape with angular facets and defining horned roofs. The water-buffalo horns on the roof are believed to protect the house’s occupants from danger and to ward off bad spirits. The beautiful painted patterns too have their own individual significance. The are natural craftsmen and artists. How could they not be inspired by the magnificent nature that they call their home? Abdy tells me one house typically fits eight families with only separators between each family inside the house. The locals’ houses and vegetable fields located at We headed back to the homestay and called the foot of Mount Sinabung it a day. Back in town the ash had settled and – an active volcano. the vibrant greenery surrounding Berastagi was now covered in a fine grey. August 29, The easy-to-moderate 2010, marked the last major eruption of hiking trail to the Mount Sinabung following 400 years of other active volcano, dormancy, forcing 30,000 people to be Mount Sibayak.

Recent Mount Sinabung Eruptions 2010 2013 2014 On August 29, 2010, On September 15, On February 1, 2014, the volcano experienced 2013, the volcano a further eruption a minor eruption after erupted again. More occurred that sent being inactive for than 3,700 people clouds of hot ash over four centuries. were evacuated. 2km into the air. 112 Travel | Berastagi

evacuated. It has been quietly rumbling with over 25 smaller intermittent eruptions since then. I was in awe to see the people of Berastagi back in their town resuming their lives even as the mighty mountain continues to grumble.

The next day Mother Nature was kinder to us. Abdy told me the winds had changed direction and were now blowing ash away from the town. Mery prepared a traditional dish as a special 5 Senses – Sight treat to start the day. Arsik is A SLICE OF a traditional Batak dish of carp cooked with a rare spice called MYANMAR andaliman, which is related to Sichuan pepper. The colour of the carp was predominantly yellow because of the turmeric and the flavourful flesh was beautifully moist, soft and tender. She served it with rice, the perfect side dish as the fish had a wonderful curry-like The way these people have shown (but more pungent) aroma. resilience and carried on with their Abdy had a surprise for me too. Later that day we drove up to lives is as inspiring as the majestic Mount Sinabung and trekked mountains themselves. up to a safe spot to enjoy the sunset. We were joined by many This temple is the largest locals who also made the trek Buddhist pagoda in Indonesia. to appreciate this gift of nature Though the road to reach it is a in their back yard, despite little rough and tumble, it’s well the disconcerting mood the worth the journey. The temple mountain had been in not more looks majestic as the brilliant gold than 24 hours earlier. How the contrasts with the surrounding recent eruptions have affected blue skies and green jungles. the fair people of Berastagi is sad It was built as a smaller replica of and unfortunate, yet at the same the Shwedagon Pagoda Temple time the way these people in Yangon, Myanmar. Everyone is have shown resilience and welcome to explore, but be sure carried on with their lives is to keep quiet and show respect as inspiring as the majestic as there are people who are there mountains themselves. to pray and meditate. www.tamanalamlumbini.org

Kuil ini merupakan kuil The unique shape of the Batak Buddha terbesar di Indonesia. Karo house roof with its colourful Walaupun jalan menuju tempat ornaments and the water-buffalo ini agak sulit dan berat, Taman horns looking down at the top of it, Alam Lumbini tetap layak untuk which locals believe can protect the dikunjungi. Kuil tersebut tampil house’s occupants. megah dengan warna emas yang kontras dengan warna biru langit The carved gecko ornaments dan hijau hutan di sekitarnya. surrounding the outer walls of the Tempat ini dibangun mirip house are believed to protect the dengan—namun lebih kecil dari house from evil spirits. —kuil Pagoda Shwedagon di A colourful painted wood-carved Yangon, Myanmar. Siapa pun ornament on the wall of the house. dapat mengunjungi kuil ini, namun Anda harus menjaga One of the traditional Batak ketenangan dan menghormati Karo houses located at Dokan mereka yang tengah beribadah Batak village. dan bermeditasi. Travel | Berastagi 113

Sipiso-piso Waterfalls is one of the many highlights while visiting the Karo highlands around Berastagi. You can hike down to the base to feel the fresh, cold water from the falls. 114 Travel | Berastagi

Hot Spring 101

If you're going to a wild hot spring, A pair of flip-flops is handy for leave the soap at home. It isn’t needed both commercial springs and in the (since there’s flowing, non-recycling wilds, owing to slick surfaces and water) and simply acts as a pollutant. uneven footing. Tak perlu membawa sabun Gunakan sandal untuk ke mandi ke sumber air panas karena pemandian air panas dan di alam justru akan menjadi polusi pada bebas, karena permukaan tanah sumber air panas tersebut. yang licin dan tak rata.

If you use your own towel, you'll Spring water can be damaging to be well advised to rinse it out soon a camera if a non-waterproof camera after use as the mineral content and, is immersed or if water is allowed to frequently, acidity of spring water dry on the lens as mineral deposits can be damaging to the towel. are extremely difficult to remove. Jika menggunakan handuk Air panas alam bisa merusak sendiri, langsung cuci handuk Anda kamera bila terendam air dan setelah digunakan karena kandungan jika dibiarkan mengering di lensa, mineral dan asam dari air panas kandungan mineralnya akan 5 Senses – Touch alam bisa merusak serat handuk. sulit dibersihkan. MOUNT SIBAYAK HOT SPRING

Even if you don’t get to Walau tidak sempat melihat see the sunrise from the top of matahari terbit dari puncak Mount Sibayak, you can head Gunung Sibayak, Anda dapat to one of the hot springs to menuju salah satu sumber air unwind and relax your muscles panas untuk bersantai setelah after a long day of trekking and seharian bertualang. Penduduk exploring. The natural hot setempat berendam di sini secara springs are particularly pleasant rutin untuk menyembuhkan in the cool mountain air. Locals atau meringankan berbagai Know the maximum temperature Many wild springs are gathering bathe regularly to heal or relieve penyakit seperti tekanan darah of the hot spring. Temperatures as places for wildlife. Know what many ailments such as high tinggi, anemia, nyeri sendi, high as 70ºC are common in hot kind of animals might frequent blood pressure, anaemia, dan rematik. Pastikan Anda springs. Be conservative unless you the area, and be prepared for arthritis and rheumatism. mengambil tempat yang know the spring well. wildlife encounters. Be sure to grab a spot with menghadap lembah Gunung Cek suhu air panas sebelum Kebanyakan sumber air panas views across the Mount Sibayak Sibayak agar Anda dapat Anda berendam. Suhunya kadang adalah tempat berkumpul binatang. valley for ultimate nature menikmati pemandangan bisa mencapai 70ºC. Berhati-hatilah Ada baiknya mengetahui hewan apa immersion and relaxation. alam sambil santai berendam. kecuali Anda sudah mengenal baik yang sering muncul agar tidak kaget sumber air panas tersebut. jika bertemu salah satunya. Travel | Berastagi 115

Saya beruntung tinggal hanya satu setengah jam jauhnya dari Berastagi. Di Medan, kami sudah terbiasa dengan hiruk-pikuk, cuaca khatulistiwa, dan lalu lintas padat yang merupakan konsekuensi tinggal di salah satu kota besar di Indonesia. Namun, tak sampai 70 km di selatan kota Medan, Berastagi menyodorkan jeda sejenak dari semua itu.

Berastagi terletak di dataran merupakan salah satu A local farmer picking ripe tinggi (sekitar 1.300 meter), di kecamatan dari Kabupaten tomatoes and vegetables. 5 Senses – Sight antara 2 gunung berapi teraktif di Karo, menghubungkan dataran Sumatera. Gunung Sibayak (2.212 tinggi Karo ke kota pesisir The cold climate has also made GUNDALING HILLS meter) bertakhta di langit utara, Medan. Saya terpaksa Berastagi a perfect place for flower sementara Gunung Sinabung menyebutnya kota kecil hanya farms such as this one, where you (2.460 meter) menjulang tinggi di karena area seputar kota ini can visit and buy flowers. Hike up to the Gundaling arah barat. Bukit-bukit vulkanik masih terbilang kuno. Hingga Hills to see panoramic views of subur di antara kedua gunung tahun 1900-an, Berastagi tak Berastagi. From here you can tersebut membentang dengan lebih dari sebuah desa. Namun, walk down to the fields to hutan hujannya, pemandangan daerah ini dikenal sebagai kota connect with local farmers and ladang hijau yang indah, serta di tahun 1920 ketika kolonial get a sense of their daily lives. Kota Berastagi sendiri yang Belanda tertarik pada lingkungan About 3km from the heart of memiliki kelebihan berupa iklim yang subur dan iklimnya yang Berastagi the hills are 1,575m sejuk sepanjang tahun berkat sejuk, lalu membangun sebuah above sea level, and you can see lokasi strategisnya. Tak heran, sekolah berasrama di sini. Sinabung and Sibayak. There are kota kecil berbukit ini menjadi even beautiful gardens to enjoy, tujuan berlibur akhir pekan yang Sebelum diduduki oleh kolonial making this a perfect spot for a populer di antara kawan-kawan Belanda, Berastagi dikenal family picnic. If you don’t feel up saya sesama orang Medan. sebagai pusat pertanian padi dan for a hike, or just want to enjoy perdagangan beras. Itulah the ride, hire a local sado Sesungguhnya, Berastagi bukan asal-usul nama kota ini; Berastagi (two-wheeled horse-drawn sekadar kota kecil. Berastagi dalam dialek lokal berarti ‘gudang carriage) to take you. justru merupakan kota utama beras’. Namun, kini tak hanya dengan populasi kurang dari beras yang akan Anda temui di 50.000 jiwa dan secara teknis pasar. Berastagi juga terkenal

Anda bisa mendaki Bukit Gundaling untuk menikmati pemandangan Berastagi. Dari sini, berjalan-jalanlah ke ladang untuk merasakan kehidupan petani sehari-harinya. Sekitar 3 km dari jantung Kota Berastagi, terdapat perbukitan setinggi 1.575 meter dari atas permukaan laut di mana Anda dapat melihat Sinabung dan Sibayak. Terdapat pula taman-taman indah yang cocok untuk piknik keluarga. Jika Anda tak begitu suka mendaki, atau sekadar ingin menikmati perjalanan, Anda dapat menyewa sado (kereta kuda beroda dua). 116 Travel | Berastagi

Here you can sit and enjoy the breathtaking panoramic view of green rolling hills while eating warm, delicious sweet corn.

jalan ini sedikit berbahaya—berada persis kemudian mendadak sontak, meludahkan di pinggir jalan yang (sangat) sempit. Tetapi segumpal abu vulkanik ke udara. Saya cemas Hidup berdampingan konstruksi warung ini tampak kokoh, dan pada mulanya, namun Abdy meyakinkan dengan gunung api yang pemandangan pada ketinggian ini benar- saya, itu bukan erupsi besar. Hidup benar memesona. Lembah hijau nan subur berdampingan dengan gunung api yang sangat aktif mengandung serta hutan lebat membentang di sekitarnya. sangat aktif mengandung konsekuensi konsekuensi tantangan Saat cuaca cerah, Anda dapat melihat tantangan yang berbeda. Dengan tenang, hamparan hutan membebat pemandangan dia mengangsurkan masker kepada saya yang berbeda. hutan beton di Kota Medan dari kejauhan. untuk dipakai kemudian menyarankan Saya pun menghabiskan pesanan jagung agar kami menjelajah bagian luar kota saya yang manis dan empuk sebelum dahulu selama menunggu abu reda. kemudian melanjutkan perjalanan. dengan sayur-mayur, buah-buahan, serta Dia mengantarkan saya untuk melihat Air bunga yang tumbuh di tengah iklim sejuk Saya sudah memesan penginapan di Terjun Sipiso-piso, sekitar 45 menit dari dan tanah yang sangat subur. Nachelle Homestay, tepat di samping jalan penginapan. Secara harfiah, namaSipiso- utama kota dan hanya berjarak 10 menit jalan piso bermakna ‘pisau’ dan berasal dari Dalam perjalanan darat dari Medan di akhir kaki dari jantung Kota Berastagi. Penginapan dinding tebing bergerigi, tempat air jatuh pekan, saya melewati sejumlah desa serta ini bergaya rumah toko, dikelola pasangan dari ketinggian 120 meter menuju sebuah hutan cagar alam, yang berada di sepanjang yang ramah, Mery dan Abdy. Kamar dan jurang sempit di bawahnya. Sebuah jalan sempit yang berkelok dan mendaki. fasilitasnya sederhana, namun bersih dan pemandangan yang mengagumkan. Selang beberapa jam mengemudi, saya nyaman karena semua kebutuhan tersedia Ditambah lagi, di arah yang berlawanan mematikan AC mobil lalu membuka jendela lengkap, termasuk air panas. dengan air terjun, Anda dapat melihat ujung membiarkan embusan udara pegunungan utara danau terbesar Indonesia, Danau Toba. yang segar memasuki mobil. Kira-kira setelah Abdy, tuan rumah sekaligus pemandu saya kembali berkendara selama 10 menit, saya di Berastagi ini adalah penduduk setempat Dalam perjalanan kembali ke kota, kami berhenti di perhentian pertama: sebuah yang fasih berbahasa Inggris, Perancis, dan mampir ke dua desa tradisional, Dokan dan warung jagung bakar dan jagung rebus di Indonesia, termasuk dialek Karo lokal. Lingga, yang masih mempertahankan adat pinggir jalan. Saya memesan kedua jenis Dia mengajak saya naik ke atap untuk Batak Karo tua. Salah satu aspek budaya jagung itu, bersama teh manis panas untuk menunjukkan pemandangan yang memukau. yang paling khas adalah arsitektur Batak melegakan dahaga. Lokasi warung pinggir Gunung Sinabung berdiri tegak nan angkuh, Karo tradisional dengan rumah-rumah 118 Travel | Berastagi © travel images / Alamy Many local people will come to this safe place to relax and enjoy the sunset and views of the active volcano, Mount Sinabung.

The local delicacy arsik fish.

The famous local fruit, passion fruit, or as the locals call it, buah markisa.

Barbecued sweet corn.

berciri khusus dengan bentuk persegi yang Keesokan harinya, alam lebih berbaik belakangan ini terhadap penduduk unik, segi-segi bersudut dan atap bertanduk hati pada kami. Abdy memberi tahu Berastagi sesungguhnya menyedihkan dan yang khas. Abdy memberi tahu saya, satu saya, angin telah berubah arah sehingga tidak menguntungkan, namun pada saat rumah biasanya dapat menampung delapan mengembuskan abu jauh dari kota. Mery yang sama, bagaimana orang-orang ini keluarga dan, di antara setiap keluarga dalam mempersiapkan masakan tradisional sebagai menunjukkan ketangguhan dalam satu rumah tersebut, hanya diberi pemisah. sajian istimewa untuk mengawali hari. melanjutkan kehidupan mereka, sama Tanduk kerbau di atap diyakini dapat Arsik adalah masakan tradisional Batak menakjubkannya dengan kemegahan melindungi para penghuni rumah dari dari ikan mas yang dimasak dengan bumbu Sinabung itu sendiri. bahaya dan menangkal roh jahat. Pola-pola langka bernama andaliman, yang masih yang dilukis indah juga mengandung makna berkerabat dengan jenis lada sichuan. tersendiri. Suku Karo adalah para perajin dan Warna kuning mendominasi karena seniman berbakat. Tak heran bila mereka lalu pengaruh kunyit. Adapun daging ikan terinspirasi dengan keindahan alam yang yang lezat terasa masih basah namun mereka anggap sebagai rumah sendiri. lembut dan empuk. Mery menyajikannya JAKARTA TO MEDAN dengan nasi, pendamping yang sangat Kami pun menyudahi perjalanan hari itu pas karena ikan arsik ini beraroma Flight Time 1 hour, 55 minutes lalu kembali ke penginapan. Saat kami seperti kari (namun lebih pedas). kembali ke kota, abu telah mereda. Berastagi Frequency 70 flights per week yang tadinya berwarna hijau kini tertutupi Abdy juga punya kejutan untuk saya. warna kelabu tipis. Tanggal 29 Agustus 2010 Menjelang sore, dia mengajak saya menandai letusan besar terakhir Gunung berkendara ke Gunung Sinabung lalu Sinabung setelah tidur selama 400 tahun. berjalan mendaki ke sebuah titik aman Letusan tersebut memaksa 30.000 orang untuk menikmati indahnya matahari mengungsi. Sejak letusan itu, sang gunung terbenam. Kami bergabung dengan perlahan-lahan terus berdentum dengan penduduk setempat yang juga menempuh lebih dari 25 letusan kecil berselang-seling. pendakian ini untuk menikmati karunia • Medan Saya kagum pada penduduk Berastagi yang alam di kampung halaman mereka, pulang ke kota mereka untuk melanjutkan walaupun kegelisahan akibat letusan hidup, sekalipun gunung yang perkasa abu gunung berapi belum juga 24 jam ini tak hentinya menggemuruh. berlalu. Dampak letusan Sinabung